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international - Bergische Universität Wuppertal

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100<br />

bathroom or kitchen. My col-<br />

league Guo laughed when I<br />

asked him whether students<br />

could do their own cooking.<br />

He said they were all away<br />

from home for the first time<br />

and it would be far too dangerous<br />

to let them loose in a kitchen.<br />

Showers are available<br />

in another building, and there<br />

is also a common washroom<br />

on every floor. Men’s and<br />

women’s dormitories (halls)<br />

are strictly separated and<br />

visiting is not allowed. But<br />

don’t let that put you off going<br />

to China – <strong>international</strong><br />

exchange students are often<br />

given more comfortable living<br />

quarters.<br />

China is simply different. The<br />

culture, the people and the<br />

language can’t be compared<br />

with those in the west. Language,<br />

of course, is the key<br />

to a culture; but the idea of<br />

learning sufficient Chinese<br />

for daily use in the space of<br />

a few weeks is rather utopian.<br />

Not that it’s all that difficult<br />

to construct sentences<br />

in Chinese, but learning the<br />

four different pitched tones<br />

plus the neutral tone through<br />

which a word can take on five<br />

different meanings is another<br />

matter. People for the most<br />

part don’t understand you on<br />

the street, even if you think<br />

you’ve constructed a perfect<br />

Chinese sentence, but that’s<br />

not generally a problem. You<br />

always manage in the end to<br />

get something to eat or buy<br />

what you want. often some<br />

friendly person with a bit of<br />

English will help, and waiters<br />

in restaurants don’t mind<br />

spending longer with you<br />

when you’re ordering a meal.<br />

Passers-by on the street quite<br />

often take out their mobiles<br />

for an ‘unobtrusive’ snapshot,<br />

while you’re waiting for some-<br />

one. It’s just not possible as<br />

a European to remain unnoticed,<br />

especially in a place like<br />

Kaifeng, where foreigners<br />

of any sort are rare. So how<br />

should one behave as a foreigner<br />

living and working for a<br />

few months in China? Integration<br />

is what everyone talks<br />

about, but it really isn’t that<br />

simple when you don’t speak<br />

the language well. Nevertheless,<br />

it can work, so long<br />

as you are courageous and<br />

open about it. You just have<br />

to find people who share<br />

that attitude. I took the step<br />

of enrolling at the only fitness<br />

studio in the town, where I<br />

do aerobics with thirty Chinese<br />

housewives once a week.<br />

That’s pretty hilarious, but<br />

also hard work. our trainer is<br />

merciless. Integration is hard<br />

work for both sides.<br />

People rarely smile when you<br />

make eye contact; it’s just<br />

not part of their culture. But if<br />

you smile at them in a friendly<br />

way, they often greet you in<br />

return, especially if you are a<br />

foreigner. Whether in stores<br />

or at street vendors and kitchens<br />

the tone is fairly rough.<br />

There are simply too many<br />

people; everyone is just part<br />

of the great whole, so no<br />

one cares what others on the<br />

street think of them. You often<br />

see people walking in pajamas<br />

in the evening, sometimes<br />

even during the day,<br />

and every Chinese person<br />

seems to possess a pair of<br />

fluffy slippers. They do a lot of<br />

sports and fitness exercises<br />

together in public spaces –<br />

especially elderly people can<br />

be seen doing yoga or relaxation<br />

training in parks. The<br />

general atmosphere is a bit<br />

like on a campsite, with people<br />

sitting on small folding<br />

stools or strolling across the<br />

street for a shower with toilet<br />

bag in hand. Many Chinese<br />

apartments have no shower<br />

of their own, so people have<br />

to use public facilities.<br />

Transport for most people is<br />

by bicycle (sometimes electric)<br />

or scooter. There are also<br />

hordes of taxis and tuk-tuks<br />

on the streets. Very few Chinese,<br />

even today, can afford<br />

their own car. So the bicycle<br />

and scooter are used to take<br />

whatever is necessary from<br />

A to B – sometimes impressive<br />

loads, including dogs,<br />

babies and old people. There<br />

are traffic rules, but nobody<br />

seems to take much notice of<br />

them. Whether you drive on<br />

the right or left depends on<br />

which side is busier. But despite<br />

the chaos I have rarely<br />

seen an accident – not least<br />

due to the fact that the horn<br />

is used continuously as a warning<br />

signal: “Watch out, I’m<br />

coming!”<br />

So what can I say now in the<br />

end? I’ve had a great time in<br />

China – a time I would not<br />

want to miss and that I’ll<br />

never forget. Every day in a<br />

101

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