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Making and Learning the Ruleslast anchor, a very heavy one. W e had drifted within the ship'slength of a large brig, whose bowsprit threatened our cabinwindows all afternoon and evening: and we were within aquarter of a mile of the shore and a reef of rocks." 51We , however, have the law of averages on our side. Thou ­sands of vessels pass through the Sound every year and fewcome to any harm. With a good breeze at our backs we runthrough the Sound in a matter of hours and come to anchorbefore dark in the deep safe harbor of Copenhagen.Copenhagen is one of the greatest and most beautiful portsof the world. If w e are arriving in 1799, w e willfindherpopulation to be 83,o63. 52 (In 1790, the population of Philadelphia,the biggest city in the United States, was42,444. 53 ). The harbor is capable of accommodatingfivehundredships at one time. 54 Ou r brig, accustomed to whole oceansof privacy, is surrounded by scores of moored vessels.In the morning, the captain and supercargo take the ship'spapers ashore to be inspected by the port authorities and to seeMr. Ryberg. When they return, we warp into position besideone of the quays. For the next few days Danish lumpers unloadthe hogsheads of sugar and barrels of coffee while our crewmakes minor repairs to the rigging and sails. Whe n our vessel isempty andfloatingso high that the gangplank is more like aladder than a stairway, the lumpers turn to shoveling sand intoour hold for ballast.W e clear for Kronstadt with a cargo of sand and Ryberg'sletters of credit safe in the supercargo's chest. Steering southand then west, we round the last tip of Sweden and enter theBaltic Sea. Th e Baltic is a northern sea and never warm : theGulf of Finland, that arm of the Baltic leading to St. Peters­63