Garden and Home South Africa - October 2015

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destinations GAMES Scotland’s holy trinity of single malt, stunning scenery and epic golf contests is an unforgettable mix, as Tess Paterson discovered TEXT AND PHOTOGRAPHS TESS PATERSON
It all started with a casual conversation over lunch. Someone was heading to the Ryder Cup at Gleneagles in Perthshire, Scotland. I thought they were talking about horses, and fortunately kept stumm. A hasty Internet search by my golf-mad husband revealed that we might still get tickets. Just. Prices were scary – of the bond-extending variety – and the only way to acquire them was as part of a hotel package. “YOLO,” my teenage godson said, eyes glued to a PlayStation game, “you only live once.” Well quite. Next year’s Ryder Cup is in Minnesota; in 2018 it’s in France. There simply was no better place to see it than its rightful home in the Highlands. Our plan was to use Edinburgh as a base and then bus up to Gleneagles for two of the three tournament days. I should mention right off that I don’t understand sport, probably never will. Bar my annual swim at Kenton-on-Sea and a spot of hatha yoga, it’s the sort of alien territory that I’m happy to overlook. It soon sank in though, that this is the Oscars of golf, a biennial clash between Europe and the USA, so laden with rivalry and tradition, that it’s watched by half a billion people around the world. When 150 private jets land at Edinburgh airport for a tournament, you know it’s going to be a party. We arrive just after sunrise and the Perthshire hills are awash with a thin golden light. A quick stop for coffee and then it’s a stiff walk about the hilly course to get our bearings. “You do realise it’ll be like herds of cattle streaming over the hills,” a friend had said of the anticipated crush. True, we’re part of a 50 000-strong crowd that attends the event each day. But in this stunning setting with its space, emerald grass and distant purple hills, it doesn’t feel overwhelming at all. All around us there’s a wonderful commingling of accents – the Dutch are out in full force, the Scots fully be-kilted and ready for war. Loudly self-assured, the American fans are dressed as though it’s the Fourth of July. It’s a dappled, late autumn day and the payoff for no rain is a freezing, ear-piercing wind. Once you’ve staked your claim at a chosen green, it’s all about settling in for TESS’S TRAVEL TIPS MUST-SEE SIGHT: St Andrews on the east coast, the small university town with the legendary (and public) golf course, medieval castle and beautiful abbey ruins. NEED TO KNOW: The unpredictable weather is a given and howling winds are not unheard of, even in summer. ESSENTIAL ITEMS TO PACK: Pack for warmth and comfort, and if you’re a keen walker, take waterproof clothing and shoes. SHOP UP A STORM: Princes Street is the main shopping precinct in Edinburgh but it’s busy and touristy. George Street is less frenetic and has everything from Harvey Nichols to Hobbs and L.K. Bennett. THIS SPREAD, CLOCKWISE FROM LEFT: Views of the River Avon. The historic city of Edinburgh. The first hole at Gleneagles in Perthshire. Ryder Cup vicecaptains, José María Olazábal and Miguel Ángel Jiménez. Painted shopfronts in the heart of Edinburgh. the wait. Eventually there’s a low roar which erupts into chants of Yoo-rop, Yoo-rop, and like gladiators, the European team crests the hill. I’ll admit to long being smitten by Miguel Ángel Jiménez, the cigar-smoking, red-wine drinking gardenandhome.co.za | OCTOBER 2015 149
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Garden and Home South Africa - October 2015

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