FOUNDING FATHERS WHO ARE THE GUMPTIOUS GOURMET GURUS BEHIND SA’S BEST-KNOWN CULINARY BRANDS? WE CHATTED TO SOME OF THE INDUSTRY’S LEADING LIGHTS AND FOLLOWED THEM ON A NOSTALGIC JOURNEY BACK TO WHERE IT ALL BEGAN... BY ANNA TRAPIDO, JENNY HANDLEY, LISA VAN DER KNAAP AND TARYN DAS NEVES PHOTOGRAPHS BY GRAEME WYLLIE, BRUCE TUCK, PETER WHITFIELD AND ANNALIZE NEL 94 JUNE 2016
WANDILE NDALA OF WANDIE’S PLACE By Anna Trapido Wandile Ndala’s deliciously unpretentious township restaurant is decorated with business cards from legions of appreciative visitors. Over the years, he has hosted luminaries like Richard Branson, EvanderHolyfieldandBradPitt–allofwhom have tucked into African culinary classics, like mogodu (tripe), dombolo dumplings and ting (fermented sorghum). “I am committed to keeping Wandie’s recognisable – if apatroncametous10years ago, he must find what he had then on the menu.” WANDILE NDALA Wandilerelectsthat,“Evenasakid,Iwouldcookformy friends. Simple stuff at irst – umngqusho (samp and beans), umsila wenkomo (oxtail stew) – all those Xhosa dishes that my mother taught me. Later, in the 1980s, I started a shebeen in our family home. The house that my mother left for me is still the venue for Wandie’s Place. “Inthoseearlydays,itwasn’teasy–Ihadnolicenceto sell liquor and the police used to raid us. I used to be very cautiousaboutwhomIserved,becauseIdidnotwantthe authorities to know about my business. It was only in 1990 (when I was inally granted a licence to operate the tavern legally) that we became a well-known place. At irst, it was only Sowetans; but, gradually, outsiders came to know aboutustooandnowpeoplecomefromallovertheworld! “Although things have changed since then, I have a consistent, focused vision. I am committed to keeping Wandie’s recognisable–ifapatroncametous10yearsago,hemust indwhathehadthenonthemenu.Ifsomeoneputtheir business card on the wall in 1990, they will ind it still there today. “I learned the hard way that being true to myself is vital. In 2007, I opened a branch of Wandie’s at the airport, but it didn’t work because it was too different from what had made us great in Soweto. But, even the closure of that space was a good learning experience – I realised that so much of what makes us great is our location. The Sowetan spirit infuses intoeverythingwedohere–thatrelaxed, chilled vibe that you just can’t get at an airport. “Sometimes, my kids suggest that Ichangethings–repaint,playloudmusic,whatever–but theyarestillyoung;it’stooearlyforthemtodecidesuch things while I am still alive! Ultimately, so much of what IvalueaboutlifeisrootedinWandie’s–Ievenmetmywife here, so honouring the legacy makes emotional- and business senseeachandeveryday.” WANDIE’S PLACE, 618 MAKHALEMELE STREET, DUBE, SOWETO; 011-982-2796; WANDIES.CO.ZA foodandhome.co.za JUNE 2016 95
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MAN, OH MAN... BOWL DAD OVER WITH T
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KITCHEN SECRETS Heat the remaining
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find your feel-good flavour Toasted
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108 JUNE 2016 CONTENTS 14 for detai
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PROMOTION The stuff of winter PREPA
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LETTERS & ONLINE Next month’s win
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ROBERT FARRAR CAPON IN PARTY SPIRIT
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COVER DISH TURN THE PAGE TO DISCOVE
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foodbites Trending: Pizza cones RE
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BUYS FOR GUYS WONDERING WHAT TO GET
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EAT OUT@ Cape Town YUMCIOUS Johanne
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THIS MONTH, JANE GRIFFITHS, AUTHOR
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WONDERING WHAT YOU CAN WHIP UP WITH
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Jennifer (Jen) Su is a South Africa
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EATING LOCALLY A pinch of KHOISAN J
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YNTZE SCHRAUWEN BRITT GEACH leaving
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EATING LOCALLY COOK’S TIP Use som
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EATING LOCALLY Chocolate terrine wi
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4June Blaauwklippen Road Vintners O
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MY OLIVES COME FROM ITALY MY CHEESE
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BOOKS COOKS DIGESTING THE LATEST ON
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1 PUMPKIN SPICE Mix together 45ml (
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