dec2015

WINE WATCH
By Sheila and Bennet Bodenstein
We are in the season of celebration. Celebrations call for sparkling wines and there is no sparkling more in line with celebrations
than French Champagne. There are many sparkling wines, some exceptional. But there is and can never be any other sparkling
wine with the grandeur and finesse of a true French Champagne. Whatever the magic, whether it is the far northern growing
region, the chalk-growing soil, the constant temperature of the aging caves, or the total hands-on production methods, no other
sparkling wine made anywhere in the world can duplicate a French Champagne.
Champagne During
Champagne Charles
Heidsieck Brut Reserve ($65)
This wine is the backbone of
Charles Heidsieck and deserves
to be, as it has never failed to
receive very high numbers from
number-giving wine reviewers.
It is a fresh, bright, extremely
enjoyable Champagne that carries
an equally easily identifiable
yeast and toast-like aroma with
hints of roasted coffee beans. The
flavor displays a cherry element,
which is both very noticeable and
very enjoyable. What impressed
us about this wine is the finish,
which seemed to last indefinitely
and is among the most enjoyable
finish flavors that we have ever
experienced in a Champagne.
From the first sip of this wine, you
will understand exactly why it has
won so many accolades.
Nothing is Better Than
Champagne Charles
Heidsieck Rose Reserve ($80)
This wine is crafted from
Chardonnay, Pinot Noir, and
Pinot Meunier grapes that were
fermented, blended, and then
fermented a second time in the
bottle to produce the effervescence
that is the hallmark of a
sparkling wine. A beautiful light
strawberry color greets the eyes
and the rich aroma of strawberries,
raisins, and fresh peaches
invites the first sip. This wine has
a medium body, which supports
the fruit flavors of berries and
peaches. There is also a very positive
and excellent bread-like flavor
that weaves in and out of the
fruit and ends in a very obvious
creamy finish. With the first sip of
this wine, you will understand why
French Champagne is in a world
of its own.
Champagne Palmer
Brut Reserve ($52)
Season of Celebration
This Champagne has also been
made from the same classical
Champagne grapes that have
made up Champagne for centuries
– Chardonnay, Pinot Noir, and
Pinot Meunier. The Chardonnay
adds elegance, finesse, crispness,
and delicacy to the finished wine,
while the Pinot Noir contributes
body and strength, as well as
imparting its incredibly haunting
fruit flavors that only a fine Champagne
is capable of. The Pinot
Meunier acts as a softening buffer
between the two other dominant
elements. The Champagne Palmer
is a very well made and interesting
wine that does not bury its
charms behind a veil of yeast and
a flood of bubbles, as many of the
knock-off wines that purport to be
Champagne do. There can be no
question about it – this Champagne
is sure to please.
Charles Heidsieck Brute
Millesime 2005 ($110)
This is considered one of the finest
Charles Heidsieck wines available
today, simply by the fact that its
vintage dating tells much about
this wine. Most French Champagnes
are made from an assemblage
of wines from different years
to achieve a desired result. But not
this wine. By concentrating on the
grapes of the 2005 vintage, the
Charles Heidsieck vintners boldly
announce that it was a terrific year,
which resulted in an equally terrific
Champagne. In the glass, the eye
is greeted by a deep golden yellow
color with tiny bubbles rising to
the top in a never-ending stream.
The aroma is a refined melding of
citrus, bread, and a hint of cherry.
In the mouth, the wine is soft
and creamy with hints of many
summer fruits. These continue to
an equally memorable and longlasting
finish. It is a lavish wine of
great charm and depth and well
worth its price. P
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DECEMBER 2015