LUANG PRABANG BETWEEN THE MEALS Hidden away in a narrow passageway, the marketplace buzzes with life…and death, for fresh kill every morning when vegetables, the daily catch and fresh meats are rolled out to sell. For visitors, watching locals bargain over piles of vegetables and animals is an eye-opening experience. The vendors live along the forest, hills and rivers. Though it’s a smaller yield for produce and meats at times, it’s guaranteed to be the freshest around. Get the local currency, the Lao kip, ready for any unusual things you want to get. The market’s energy buzzes early, even before sunrise. Vendors offers exotic fruits not typically seen elsewhere in Laos, not to mention the local edible fungi such as the egg mushroom. Other local delicacies include jerky sticks of buffalo skin, wild birds and hornet larvae squirming in containers of hexagonal sockets. Tucked away in the mountainous valley of northern Laos and sitting at the confluence of the Mekong and Khan rivers, Luang Prabang has kitchens that stock items you won’t find in gourmet supermarkets, but from a fresher source. Food here comes from the river and the wild, whose communities still rely on these resources just as much as hunting, to gather foodstuff to put a meal on the table. From early morning to midday, vendors offer a plethora of local delicacies. Modest in one way, yet shocking in its authenticity – the market is well stocked. Piles of banana flowers, cowpeas, – The visual display of colourful spices and vegetables will stop you in your tracks. Green balls of river weed or rock algae are ubiquitous and common in the Luang Prabang food market. bamboo shoots, wild mushrooms, watercress and balls of river weed dominate the stalls. Squirrels are displayed with their bodies cut open to show the freshness of their entrails. And there’s plenty of fish from the Mekong River, some of them as big as a pig. A short walk through Luang Prabang food market takes you back to a time when food didn’t come from packs in the supermarket. Along the small alleys, buckets overflow with rice, fresh vegetables, fruits, sheets of river weed, wild mushrooms, Mekong fish and beehives. Here, there is no fancy display. The vendors ply their trade using flimsy plastic bags. However, the visual display of colourful spices and vegetables will stop you in your tracks. Green balls of river weed or rock algae, are ubiquitous and common in the Luang Prabang food market. The locals make very thin sheets of sun-dried river weed and sprinkle it with tamarind and ginger juices plus sesame and garlic before deep frying them. Nutty and salty, the deep-fried river weed is perfectly paired with diced buffaloskin and hot sauces. The Luang Prabang food market also offers high doses of discovery. If you look hard enough you will find wasp nests, squirrels, owls, ducks and many other creatures. Some animals are butchered, others are still hopping about. “How much?” asks an elderly Lao woman, as she checks small green frogs bound by rings. “Ten thousand kip (45 baht), granny,” the vendor says. Of course, the frogs will end up in a pot of curry. Cooking here is simple and rustic, according to the “Traditional Recipes of Laos,” a cookbook with a collection of Luang Prabang royal Luang Prabang is also beautiful, even without its food offerings. While you’re waiting for the next meal, feast your eyes and immerse yourself into the former royal capital of Laos. Protected by UNESCO’S World Heritage Fund, Luang Prabang is unique in its traditional architecture and Lao urban structures built by the European colonial authorities in the 19th and 20th centuries. Temples and landmarks here are within a walking distance. Image by Anna Lee VISITING THE ROYAL PALACE Showing traditional Lao and French neoclassical architecture, the former Royal Palace was built in 1904 and was home to King Sisavang Vong. The palace is now a museum with some rooms preserved much like they were when the king was captured in 1975. Ho Prabang, a separate outbuilding, houses Pra Bang – the most revered Buddha image. WAT XIENG THONG Luang Prabang’s most popular temple is noted for its “sim” or ordination hall. Built in 1560, the hall has roofs sweeping low to the ground. The mosaic, the “Tree of Life” on its exterior wall is stunning. A MUSEUM AND ETHNIC DIVERSITY Visiting the Museum of Traditional Arts & Ethnology Centre is a must, to learn about Lao ethnic diversity through art and costume exhibitions. There’s a café and a shop selling handicrafts and postcards. THAT MAKMO Unique by its hemispherical stupa, the temple of That Makmo is one of the oldest temples in Luang Prabang. The temple was used for hiding treasures during the Black Flag raids during the latter half of 19th Century. The temple is worth visiting and seeing the collection of wooden Buddha images. OCK POP TOK LIVING CRAFTS CENTRE Perched over Mekong, this arts and handicraft centre offers top-quality fabrics and riverside café serving drinks and excellent Lao food. As supporters of women’s empowerment programmes, fair trade products are available. Among them are high-quality artisan textiles. 70 71