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TRAVEL<br />

DESTINATION<br />

Clockwise from above: fishing activities in full<br />

swing; duck farming is big business in the<br />

backwaters; and a vegetable and fruit vendor<br />

plentiful are marine and<br />

freshwater fish as well as<br />

large varieties of shrimp,<br />

prawn and the elusive pearl<br />

spot (karimeen) which is a<br />

local delicacy. Because the<br />

terrain is fertile and<br />

conducive to rice and coconut<br />

cultivation, Sabu says he<br />

makes a living as a paddy<br />

farmer six<br />

months of the<br />

year. “The rest<br />

of the year I’m a guide for<br />

Kerala Tourism,” he adds<br />

while waving to villagers<br />

who reciprocate his<br />

gesture. Some villagers are<br />

on bicycles while others<br />

trudge on foot.Mothers<br />

ferry their kids to school,<br />

schlepping satchels and<br />

water bottles. Nobody<br />

seems to be in a hurry in<br />

Kumarakom; life seems to<br />

exist in a time warp.<br />

Suddenly, the air is<br />

punctuated with the<br />

`tring-tring’ of a bicycle<br />

bell. It is the village lottery<br />

seller. Apparently buying<br />

lottery tickets is a very<br />

popular activity in the<br />

THE<br />

RECLAIMED<br />

LAND<br />

According to legend,<br />

Parasurama, one of<br />

the 10 incarnations<br />

of Lord Vishnu,<br />

reclaimed the land of<br />

Kerala by throwing<br />

his axe into the sea.<br />

In modern times,<br />

folks in Kerala talk<br />

of an Englishman,<br />

Alfred George Baker,<br />

son of a missionary.<br />

He reclaimed<br />

Kumarakom from<br />

500 acres of<br />

wetlands lying<br />

north-east of Lake<br />

Vembanad. He<br />

is credited with<br />

creating a vast,<br />

fertile area from<br />

marshy land.<br />

backwaters.<br />

A raft of ducks glides towards our<br />

boat, seemingly out of nowhere, and<br />

starts moving alongside. Sabu explains<br />

that duck farming is very popular in<br />

Kumarakom due to an exponential<br />

demand for duck meat. Tree corpses too<br />

make random appearances, their<br />

mangled branches extending like<br />

wizened limbs into the lake. Suddenly,<br />

the flutter of wings rings in the air. We<br />

spot a group of native kingfishers, ablaze<br />

in psychedelic colours, landing on a palm<br />

tree nearby.<br />

Without roads, all<br />

action in the backwaters is<br />

concentrated on the canal<br />

bank. Women can be seen<br />

washing clothes and<br />

utensils, or buying fish and<br />

vegetables from the<br />

itinerant boatmen. The<br />

latter’s distinctive cries<br />

echo over the waters as<br />

they glide over its surface.<br />

“The villages here are<br />

quite self-contained. We<br />

grow our own fruits and<br />

vegetables and fish in the<br />

lake. There’s 100 per cent<br />

literacy here,” Sabu<br />

explains with pride as we<br />

negotiate a lagoon.<br />

The guide adds that<br />

Kerala government’s<br />

`Responsible Tourism’<br />

122<br />

MAY 2017

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