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EXPERIENCE<br />
GUIDE<br />
THE<br />
UNKNOWN<br />
AMRITSAR<br />
Where to get the best kulcha,<br />
the best phulkari and the best<br />
pehlwan malish<br />
THE OUTGOING PUNJAB<br />
GOVERNMENT gave a parting gift to<br />
Amritsar. The area around the Golden<br />
Temple has been cleaned up, refurbished<br />
and pedestrianised, and looks rather<br />
pretty in pink walls and big roundabouts.<br />
In addition to the well-traversed lanes<br />
leading to the Golden Temple (also<br />
where the new Partition Museum has<br />
opened – light in artefacts, heavy in<br />
stories) and the Wagah border, the city<br />
has a few ghee-laden surprises up its<br />
kurta sleeves. Here’s an insider’s guide to<br />
the temple town.<br />
Kulcha Land, Ranjit Avenue<br />
A tiny space, Kulcha Land’s kulchas,<br />
despite sagging under the weight of<br />
ghee and butter, are crisp like papads.<br />
They crackle as you break them into<br />
pieces and scoop up curd. With a<br />
generous sprinkling of spices on top,<br />
and different fillings such as paneer and<br />
aloo, the are the face of guilty<br />
pleasures.<br />
Kesar da Dhaba, Chowk Passian<br />
Locals have settled the debate on the<br />
best dhaba in Amritsar.<br />
Katra Jaimal Singh Market<br />
The market is sweetly referred to as the<br />
wedding market, as lanes filled with<br />
phulkari shops segue into lanes filled<br />
with chooda and jooti shops. While<br />
most of the shops carry sensibly priced<br />
phulkari, the store Paridhan has a rather<br />
amiable gentleman at the helm.<br />
Gurdas Ram Jalebi Wala and Gian<br />
Chand Milk Bhandar<br />
Close to the Golden Temple, these holesin-the-wall<br />
offer the best jalebi and lassi<br />
in Amritsar respectively.<br />
Kanha Sweets, Lawrence Road<br />
The aloo ki sabzi is simmered in<br />
tamarind, making the puri-bhaji here<br />
so delectable, you may forget your<br />
devotion to kulchas.<br />
Ram Tirath Temple<br />
It is believed that Valmiki wrote the<br />
Ramayana here. A few kilometres<br />
outside of Amritsar, the government is<br />
planning to turn it into a major tourist<br />
attraction.<br />
Jiva Spa<br />
At Jiva Spa in the newly opened Taj<br />
Swarna, the Pehlwan Malish has the right<br />
amount of tough love. A powerful oil<br />
massage, in a relaxing environment, is<br />
exactly what you needed.<br />
ALAMY/SHUTTERSTOCK<br />
146<br />
MAY 2017
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