2017 July August

Finally, Finals!
At left: Family Affair – Oakley with sire and dam: Left to
right: HOF WTCH X Twin Oaks Black Bart II PATDcs
AFTDcs DNA-VP; WTCH X Sliding S Land’s End
Sure Shot PATDcs AFTDcs DNA-VP; HOF WTCH X
Sweetgrass Painted Blue Skye PATDs OFTDcs DNA-CP.
Sliding S Photos
Above: There were three tables of Finals awards for the
top ten competitors-- one for each class of stock. The
awards included a picture frame and a win photo from the
event photographer. Sliding S Photos
(or perhaps four) fixed venues is being proposed for the next ten
years. There has been lots of discussion about this proposal and I
am sure the discussion will continue for some time. This idea, like
any new idea, has pros and cons and I would be happy to post some
of your thoughts on this topic in future columns. By the time the
next issue rolls around I presume the dust will have settled and we
will have a clearer picture of just what the future holds for those
of us interested in attending Finals. Meanwhile, don’t hesitate to
send me your thoughts on the new format.
The questions for the mystery trainers in this issue focus on
working cattle and teaching the dog about hitting heads and heels.
These are questions that we often hear asked, and there are many
ways to work toward the goal of having a cattle dog that will hit
both heads and heels when it is required. The questions are: (1)
How do you get a heel dog to cover the head? And (2) if you have
a dog that prefers heads and can move cattle working heads, is it
necessary that they heel? And how do you train a dog to heel?
Question #1 for Mystery Trainers:
How do you get a heeling dog to cover the head?
Answer from Mystery Trainer #1:
I think that biting is often over-rated. Learning to place dog in
the right pressure spot is more important for moving cattle quietly.
To get effective movement of stock you have to teach the dog how
to move stock from the shoulder. I train in a 40 x 40 pen and if I
have dogs that are straight on their approach I use panels in that
pen to set up different scenarios. I use up to twelve 6-foot panels
that can be arranged in various configurations to help the dog
learn to move stock through different patterns. You can rearrange
the panel configurations and create a variety of situations. Use the
panels to guide the dog getting them to go around panels to move
livestock, and also have them move livestock through panels and/
or around them. The panels provide opportunity for more control
of the situation and allow things to develop more slowly.
I try to get the dog to go around and see the head of the livestock
and then take them on a straight line. Straight lines and teaching
the dog to find the slot at the shoulder or behind to get straight
movements is my goal. Once they understand this, the dog is more
willing to get around and go to the head. I am very round in my
body language working with a dog that is straight or direct on the
livestock. This helps the dog to learn to be round. The reward is
getting the dog to move livestock in a straight line, which is what
they want.
Question #2 for Mystery Trainers:
If you have a dog that prefers heads and can move cattle
working heads, is it necessary that they heel? And how do you
train a dog to heel?
Answer from Mystery Trainer #1:
I want a head and heel. I want my dogs to stand at the head
and wait for the cow to come to them and stand there after the bite.
This I teach in a 40 x 40 pen with corners and three head of cows.
I help the dog by backing them up in the corner. I set the dog up to
face the cow in a corner and have them wait until the cow comes
to them before letting them take a nip. Ask for a “Hit,” then ask
the dog to stop and help hold them in that position (with your body
AUSSIE TIMES May-June 2017 79