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est method of training as leaving bad habits to work on later only<br />

makes them stronger habits.)<br />

When I wrote my previous installment of Mystery Pup, I made<br />

a vow to really work on the stop and stay and have it well trained<br />

before it came time to write another installment. I have kept that<br />

promise and Toto has absorbed the training.<br />

I am a student of schutzhund, which has out-of-motion downs,<br />

sits and stands, so I am well versed in training out-of-motion stops.<br />

I normally use the method of walking with the dog at my side on<br />

leash, not in a formal HEEL but rather an informal LET’s GO. I<br />

give my stop command and then suddenly pivot myself so that I am<br />

now facing and in front of the dog. If I’m teaching just a momentary<br />

pause, I would praise and then immediately move forward with<br />

the dog again; momentary pauses will slow a dog down without<br />

taking him off contact as a down will do. If I’m teaching a solid<br />

stop (which I teach after the Pause is learned), I remain facing the<br />

dog and stabilize the position. After much praise and some passage<br />

of time, I give my RELEASE command. When handler pivots are<br />

no longer necessary, this exercise is progressed to us moving faster<br />

and faster when the stop command is given. Then, when the dog<br />

is performing well from a run, the leash becomes a long line and<br />

the progression is feeding out more and more line.<br />

I personally don’t care if the dog downs, sits or stands, so I<br />

train a non-positional stop and let the dog choose. My dogs have<br />

normally chosen to stand. I think they feel more in control of the<br />

stock than when forced to down. If I am making them hold a spot,<br />

they may sit or down after a while. They seldom have downed right<br />

away, the exception being certain dogs on ducks.<br />

Today, I had some people come to buy goats. It has been raining<br />

since yesterday, but the silly buyers came without muck boots or<br />

even rain coats! The goats were holed up in their shed with lots<br />

of mud and puddles to traverse to get there. So, I remained at the<br />

pen gate and set Toto to the other side of the pen to the large shed.<br />

She got them all out of the shed and into the pouring rain, which<br />

goats hate to be in, and then moved them across big puddles and<br />

out of the pen. She then took them to a covered dog kennel, which<br />

the goats have never been to before, and put everyone inside it for<br />

buyer examination, even the young and still pretty stupid kids.<br />

Good dog.<br />

Mystery Pup Esau<br />

Spring is here and our little place in the world has gotten<br />

green again. My training suffers as my workload increases in the<br />

real world this time of year. Also, we’ve attended several trials<br />

this spring so the time away from home compounds this problem.<br />

For the most part we’ve been fairly consistent and our results have<br />

been good. But there is room for improvement in several areas and<br />

we’ll address them this summer.<br />

One of our most obvious problems is my lack of experience<br />

trialing and knowing when to move on during a run to maximize<br />

our score. I’m stubborn and don’t like to give up. No amount of<br />

training will fix that and I just need to become more aware of the<br />

task at hand. Another of our issues is my timing, particularly on<br />

sheep and ducks. We’re getting better on sheep but ducks are just<br />

difficult for us at times. I’ve got ducks but rarely work them so I’ve<br />

got to change my mindset to be competitive on a consistent basis.<br />

Finally, Finals!<br />

We’ve enjoyed competing in the trials that we normally attend<br />

and also in venturing out to new places. Everyone has made us<br />

feel welcome and we’ve made some new friends. We’ve also seen<br />

some very nice dogs work so we need to keep our focus and not<br />

become complacent. We just need to continue to improve and with<br />

a little luck I am hopeful we will reach our goal of making the cut<br />

for Finals in Texas.<br />

(OBEDIENCE AND MORE . . . continued from page 83)<br />

We play lots of games as part of training sessions. I always<br />

teach my pups to play tug as it is something we can do in a small<br />

space, and I can use it to rev him up before competition. I have<br />

one of those large plastic peanuts made for dogs, and I teach my<br />

pup to stand on it to improve core strength and balance, always<br />

using lots of treats to make it fun. We have a small black plastic<br />

“dish” I bought at the feed store. I turn it upside down and teach<br />

my pups to put their front feet on it facing me. I guide them with<br />

food as I move around the dish, keeping their front feet in place<br />

and turning their rear. This teaches them body awareness while<br />

laying the groundwork for fronts.<br />

I love games that teach my pup to move away from the reward<br />

to get it. The simplest way to start this is to teach “Touch”. I hold<br />

my hand near the pup. As he investigates it, he will usually touch<br />

the hand. At that point, I give him a treat from the other hand. He<br />

will go back to the treat hand looking for more, but nothing happens<br />

until he again touches the first hand. He quickly gets the idea and<br />

starts pushing on the target hand to get his reward. This targeting<br />

can easily be transferred to other objects such as a ring stanchion for<br />

go outs. Moving away from the treat to earn it is a key component<br />

of much obedience and agility training, so I like to start this early.<br />

The games you can play with your pup are only limited by your<br />

creativity. You can take anything you want to teach and turn it into<br />

a game. There are only a few caveats. Above all, keep your puppy<br />

safe; remember that he has a baby’s coordination and structure, so<br />

be sure he doesn’t get hurt. Be sure he isn’t frightened. This may<br />

mean introducing a game gradually, but if he is frightened, it may<br />

carry over to training for the rest of his life. Remember that you<br />

are building a bond of affection and trust. You are the human, so<br />

you are the guardian. And to be a game an activity must be fun, so<br />

lots of treats and praise are in order.<br />

As I have said before, I believe in balanced training with both<br />

rewards and correction, but I don’t believe in correcting a dog until<br />

he understands what is expected of him. I want my dogs to enjoy<br />

their work, and teaching with rewards and praise helps them enjoy<br />

the learning process. There is plenty of time for correction when<br />

he understands what I want and chooses not to comply. Puppies<br />

love to play, and I love to play with my puppies while we build<br />

trust and learn skills we will use for a lifetime.<br />

82 AUSSIE TIMES May-June <strong>2017</strong>

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