Fah Thai Magazine Jul-Aug 2018

NORTH TO NORTH
ONWARDS TO HANOI, “ỐI GIỜI ƠI”
It loosely translates as “oh my god”
but that’s how you feel with every
bite and sight encountered. Look
past the curtain of chaotic streets
where man and vehicle seem to
share the same lane and you’ll find
countless delights that go beyond
Hanoi expectations.
However, when in Hanoi, there
has to be pho. Yes, the queue needs
to be joined at places like Pho Thinh
to taste for sautéed beef atop a
steaming bowl of a non-traditional
yet Hanoi classic. But nothing beats
the experience of apartment pho at
Miss Minh. Apparently, Miss Minh
had been serving to loyal customers
for decades but had to vacate her
sidewalk spot. Not wanting to go
elsewhere for their pho cravings,
those in the know have been showing
up at her doorstep for their regular
bowl. Thus in her living room
surrounded by a collection of blue
and white ceramics and a corner
daybed — you slurp the clearest
broth, rightly balanced by onions
and scallions in a bowl of true
Hanoi pho. Pho Hang Trong, 8 Trong
Hoan Kiem
For a dash of caffeine, in one
of the many mysterious alleyways,
follow signs for Hoi An Café, with
excellent drip coffees and Vietnamese
coffees that offer a more superior,
taste of fresh roasted beans. It’s
the design of the place in a former
duplex apartment and balcony views
of the Old Quarter that showcase the
charm of Hanoi.
While countless lists and
blogs offer tips on where to eat,
Top, Left and Right
Miss Minh serves a
genuine Hanoi pho
in her home to
faithful customers.
Pho Cuon or pho
rolls - made of pho
noodle sheets that
wrap choice slices of
beef and herbs.
Bottom
The mosaic wall,
the longest in the
world, depicts
various scenes of
Vietnamese culture.
Left
Nom bo and banh
bot loc rolls.
but sans list, the eating is still
excellent at most spots. Why
on any sidewalk, you can down
a vast array of molluscs, like
snails in herbal dipping sauces
of a quality found in high-end
restaurant, except you’re on
plastic stools and makeshift
tables. An auntie sets up shop
where she steams rice crêpes
and hands it over to you à la
minute, hot and delicious. Most
things are served with a sheer
extravagance of herbs piled high
and a vinegar and fish sauce
dip. During peak time, tables
get shared and you’re sure to
be taught the right way to eat
something. To enhance flavours,
use the condiments and season
until you strike the right balance.
62