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Eatdrink #72 July/August 2018

Local food and drink magazine serving London, Stratford and Southwestern Ontario since 2007

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Issue <strong>#72</strong> | <strong>July</strong>/<strong>August</strong> <strong>2018</strong><br />

eatdrink<br />

The LOCAL Food & Drink Magazine<br />

FREE<br />

David’s Bistro<br />

Celebrating 20 Years<br />

with David Chapman<br />

FEATURING<br />

Stratford’s Gastro Scene<br />

Where to Eat & Drink in <strong>2018</strong><br />

Huron County Bounty<br />

Culinary Adventures<br />

Summer Craft Beers<br />

Twelve Temptations<br />

Finding “Somewhereness”<br />

Terroir In a Glass of Wine<br />

Serving London, Stratford & Southwestern Ontario since 2007<br />

www.eatdrink.ca


2 | <strong>July</strong>/<strong>August</strong> <strong>2018</strong><br />

eatdrink.ca |@eatdrinkmag<br />

Our town sounds as<br />

beautiful as it looks<br />

Discover Stratford’s Summer Music<br />

visitstratford ca


REAL. LOCAL. FOOD.<br />

EXPERIENCE THE<br />

TASTE OF HURON.<br />

WIN<br />

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FOOD<br />

ADVENTURE<br />

FOR 4 PEOPLE.<br />

ENTER ONLINE<br />

ENTER AND PURCHASE TOURS ONLINE:<br />

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Sip. Savour. Stroll.<br />

Soak up the sun and<br />

experience the warm lake<br />

breeze on one of Elgin’s<br />

many outdoor patios.<br />

SoLo on Main<br />

Windjammer Inn<br />

Kettle Creek Inn<br />

eatdrink.ca |@eatdrinkmag<br />

eatdrink<br />

The LOCAL Food & Drink Magazine<br />

eatdrinkmag<br />

@eatdrinkmag<br />

eatdrinkmag<br />

eatdrink.ca<br />

Think Global. Read Local.<br />

Publisher<br />

Chris McDonell – chris@eatdrink.ca<br />

Managing Editor Cecilia Buy – cbuy@eatdrink.ca<br />

Food Editor Bryan Lavery – bryan@eatdrink.ca<br />

Copy Editor Kym Wolfe<br />

Social Media Editor Bryan Lavery – bryan@eatdrink.ca<br />

Advertising Sales Chris McDonell – chris@eatdrink.ca<br />

Bryan Lavery – bryan@eatdrink.ca<br />

Stacey McDonald – stacey@eatdrink.ca<br />

Terry Lynn “TL” Sim – TL@eatdrink.ca<br />

Finances<br />

Ann Cormier – finance@eatdrink.ca<br />

Graphics<br />

Chris McDonell, Cecilia Buy<br />

Writers<br />

Jane Antoniak, Gerry Blackwell,<br />

Darin Cook, Gary Killops,<br />

Bryan Lavery, George Macke,<br />

Chris McDonell, Tracy Turlin<br />

Photographers Steve Grimes, Nick Lavery<br />

Telephone & Fax 519-434-8349<br />

Mailing Address 525 Huron Street, London ON N5Y 4J6<br />

Website<br />

City Media<br />

Printing<br />

Sportswood Printing<br />

© <strong>2018</strong> <strong>Eatdrink</strong> Inc. and the writers. All rights reserved.<br />

Reproduction or duplication of any material published in<br />

<strong>Eatdrink</strong> or on <strong>Eatdrink</strong>.ca is strictly prohibited without<br />

the written permis sion of the Publisher. <strong>Eatdrink</strong> has a<br />

printed circulation of 20,000 issues published six times annually.<br />

The views or opinions expressed in the information, content<br />

and/or advertisements published in <strong>Eatdrink</strong> or online are<br />

solely those of the author(s) and do not necessarily represent<br />

those of the Publisher. The Publisher welcomes submissions but<br />

accepts no responsibility for unsolicited material.<br />

Visit savourelgin.ca<br />

to plan your next<br />

culinary adventure in<br />

Elgin County!<br />

OUR COVER<br />

A torchon of chocolate<br />

shows off classic David’s<br />

Bistro presentation. Chef/<br />

Owner David Chapman<br />

celebrates 20 distinguished<br />

years operating his<br />

eponymous culinary<br />

landmark in London.<br />

Photo by Steve Grimes<br />

(grimesphoto.com)


eatdrink: The Local Food & Drink Magazine<br />

<strong>July</strong>/<strong>August</strong> <strong>2018</strong> | 5<br />

Publisher’s Notes<br />

Getaways and Stay-cations<br />

Curing the Summertime Blues<br />

By CHRIS McDONELL<br />

The timing couldn’t have been better<br />

for Bryan Lavery’s guide to Stratford’s<br />

culinary scene and Jane Antoniak’s<br />

Huron County roadtrip story in<br />

this issue. Combined with tariff wars and<br />

border concerns, a low Canadian dollar and<br />

the price of gas, exploring more of what our<br />

region has to offer makes sense for so many<br />

reasons. Number one, of course, is that there<br />

are amazing places to go. The<br />

only problem with these types of<br />

roundups is that it is impossible<br />

to include every worthy<br />

business, but that speaks to<br />

Volume<br />

7<br />

coming soon!<br />

an ongoing issue at <strong>Eatdrink</strong>.<br />

There are too many good<br />

stories to tell. I count that as<br />

one of the better problems to have.<br />

David Chapman has been a friend<br />

to <strong>Eatdrink</strong> since its inception,<br />

so we watched the trials that his<br />

David’s Bistro went through last year with<br />

real trepidation. Read Bryan Lavery’s story for<br />

the details. Ouch! But —spoiler alert — we’re<br />

happy to help celebrate the restaurant’s 20th<br />

year knowing David and his amazing crew<br />

are ready to continue being “an oasis for food<br />

lovers” for years to come.<br />

Having personally come of age in rebellion<br />

against disco, tight polyester and fast food,<br />

london’s<br />

Local<br />

Culinary Guide Volume 6<br />

Flavour<br />

Restaurants • Culinary Retail • Artisans • Farmers’ Markets<br />

From<br />

eatdrink The Local Food & Drink Magazine<br />

eatdrink.ca<br />

it has been glorious to see the farm-to-table<br />

ethos emerge from the fringes and in many<br />

respects now take centre stage. Quality food and<br />

good cooking have always been around, but so<br />

many were lured into compromised positions<br />

by convenience and cheap prices. Today, even<br />

McDonald’s uses (audaciously!) the term<br />

“artisanal” to describe some of its products, as so<br />

many seek authentic local flavours.<br />

<strong>Eatdrink</strong> is assembling Volume<br />

7 of the annual London’s Local<br />

Flavour Culinary Guide. The guide<br />

has proven so popular with readers<br />

that each update grows in size and<br />

quality. Selectively distributed<br />

at tourism locations throughout<br />

Ontario, at farmers’ markets, the<br />

airport and through participating<br />

restaurants and hotels, 30,000<br />

copies were picked up, and<br />

thousands more viewed Volume 6<br />

online. It’s a restaurant guide, and much more,<br />

giving detailed information about exciting<br />

options for dining out, craft beers, specialty<br />

shops ... everything that touches on culinary<br />

culture. This year, “neighbours” will be allowed<br />

to participate, and we look forward to sharing<br />

the best issue yet in <strong>August</strong>.<br />

Peace,<br />

481 Richmond Street<br />

519-432-4092<br />

garlicsoflondon.com


Contents<br />

Issue <strong>#72</strong> | <strong>July</strong>/<strong>August</strong> <strong>2018</strong><br />

Publisher’s Notes<br />

Getaways & Stay-cations<br />

By CHRIS McDONELL<br />

5<br />

Restaurants<br />

Celebrating 20 Years<br />

at David’s Bistro, in London<br />

By BRYAN LAVERY<br />

8<br />

Stratford’s Gastro-Scene<br />

Where to Eat and Drink in <strong>2018</strong><br />

By BRYAN LAVERY<br />

12<br />

Road Trips<br />

County Bounty<br />

Culinary Adventures in Huron County<br />

By JANE ANTONIAK<br />

20<br />

The BUZZ<br />

Culinary Community Notes<br />

30<br />

Beer<br />

Twelve Temptations<br />

Local Craft Beers for Summer<br />

By GEORGE MACKE<br />

41<br />

46<br />

8<br />

12<br />

20<br />

58<br />

Wine<br />

Finding “Somewhereness”<br />

Terroir In a Glass of Wine<br />

By GARY KILLOPS<br />

46<br />

Music<br />

Hot Fun in the Summertime<br />

Upcoming Musical Highlights<br />

By GERRY BLACKWELL<br />

50<br />

Theatre<br />

Getting to the Heart<br />

Playwright Mark Crawford<br />

By JANE ANTONIAK<br />

53<br />

Books<br />

Rustle Up Some Grubs<br />

Edible and Eat the Beetles!<br />

Review by DARIN COOK<br />

56<br />

Recipes<br />

Firehouse Chef<br />

Recipes from Canada’s Firefighters<br />

Review & Recipe Selections by TRACY TURLIN<br />

58<br />

The Lighter Side<br />

Give Peas a Chance<br />

By DARIN COOK<br />

62<br />

62<br />

50<br />

56<br />

Two Books on<br />

Eating Insects!<br />

53


eatdrink: The Local Food & Drink Magazine<br />

VOTED<br />

LONDON'S<br />

RESTAURANT<br />

OF<br />

THE YEAR!<br />

JOIN US ON THE<br />

SECOND FLOOR!<br />

Come in and enjoy our delicious,<br />

seasonally created menu.<br />

519-430-6414<br />

Call for reservations<br />

/Blakes2ndFloor<br />

¦


8 | <strong>July</strong>/<strong>August</strong> <strong>2018</strong><br />

eatdrink.ca |@eatdrinkmag<br />

Restaurants<br />

Celebrating 20 Years<br />

Indefatigable David Chapman at David’s Bistro, in London<br />

By BRYAN LAVERY<br />

‘ ‘ T<br />

David Chapman’s year-long<br />

here’s a fire next door!” This was<br />

the 6:30 a.m. wake-up call from<br />

sous-chef Rick Hunt that started<br />

business nightmare. Initially, it didn’t seem to<br />

be too bad: the smell of smoke but no physical<br />

damage. Major cleaning was completed<br />

with the help of the insurance company and<br />

property restoration specialists WINMAR,<br />

and the restaurant was back in business.<br />

Then things began to change. The<br />

landlord’s insurance company required a fire<br />

resistant barrier to be built on the restaurant<br />

side. There were numerous challenges to<br />

meet building and fire codes, and that the<br />

restaurant is situated in a heritage building<br />

needed to be taken into consideration. Other<br />

surprises were uncovered due to an earlier<br />

fire. Then the building started to sink and<br />

needed to be shored up. Opening days were<br />

planned then delayed due to a seemingly<br />

endless list of obstacles.<br />

The restaurant community rallied round.<br />

Restaurateur/chef Mark Kitching offered<br />

Waldo’s on King on four occasions to<br />

allow David and staff the opportunity to<br />

reunite with his loyal clientele and stalwart<br />

supporters. Despite working out of an<br />

unfamiliar kitchen, the events were flawless<br />

and the loyalty and affection of the guests<br />

amazing. The London Club also stepped<br />

up, offering the kitchen to cater a Kidney<br />

Foundation event at London Music Hall.<br />

David’s annual New Year’s Eve dinner (for 40<br />

guests) was facilitated by Chef Steve James of<br />

the London Training Centre.<br />

Chapman eventually planned to open<br />

February 10 this year, just in time for<br />

Valentine’s Day. Burst pipes in the adjoining<br />

building caused flooding, which spread<br />

into the restaurant’s kitchen and resulted<br />

in the cancellation of 200 reservations.<br />

David Chapman


eatdrink: The Local Food & Drink Magazine<br />

<strong>July</strong>/<strong>August</strong> <strong>2018</strong> | 9<br />

Chapman and his staff worried about their<br />

loyal customers and the possibility of losing<br />

their connection with them. David’s Bistro<br />

reopened March 10, just in time to celebrate<br />

its 20th anniversary with a new bar, carpeting,<br />

panelling, exhaust system and walk-in cooler.<br />

Chapman’s wife Cindy Kinsella surprised<br />

everyone by secretly sewing new tablecloths<br />

for the restaurant.<br />

Chapman started his career at the age of 16,<br />

with an apprenticeship at the Grand Central<br />

Hotel in Belfast, Northern Ireland. In 1971 he<br />

was hired as a poissonnier (chef specializing in<br />

fish preparations) at the Four Seasons Hotel in<br />

London, England. He moved up through the<br />

ranks in hotel kitchens in Bermuda, Etobicoke<br />

and Toronto before moving to London,<br />

Ontario. Chapman’s first job in London was at<br />

Whittington’s, an elegant French restaurant at<br />

the corner of Wellington and York Streets.<br />

In 1980 the Villa Restaurant, owned by<br />

Tony and Irene Demas, was purchased by<br />

In front of the newly re-opened bistro on Richmond Street,<br />

core staff include, left to right: Sous Chef Rick Hunt, Cindy<br />

Kinsella, David Chapman, Line Cook Andrew in the far<br />

back, Natalie Baker and Head Chef Elvis Drennan.<br />

WIN A LEXUS FOR A WEEKEND!<br />

Plus get your own car cleaned and detailed!<br />

eatdrink &<br />

Presented by<br />

Enter at www.facebook.com/eatdrinkmag<br />

Contest ends <strong>August</strong> 27, <strong>2018</strong>. Complete details online.<br />

Congratulations Chuck Loosemore,<br />

winner of our May/June Draw!


eatdrink.ca |@eatdrinkmag<br />

The kitchen at David‘s Bistro, staffed by Rick Hunt (Sous<br />

Chef) and long-time Head Chef Elvis Drennan, continues to<br />

present superbly executed classic French-inspired dishes<br />

enterprising restaurateurs Nick and Carolyn<br />

Bonfrere, who renovated and modernized it.<br />

The Villa became Anthony’s Seafood Bistro,<br />

and Chapman became the chef. Anthony’s<br />

was later purchased by Anne and Archie<br />

Chisolm, and Chapman stayed on, eventually<br />

becoming chef and owner. After 18 years,<br />

Chapman reinvented himself and opened a<br />

traditional French-inspired bistro next door.<br />

The emphasis was not just on seafood, but<br />

classic French cuisine. The restaurant was an<br />

immediate success.<br />

It wasn’t long before David’s Bistro, with<br />

46 seats, signature crimson walls, chalkboard<br />

prix-fixe food and wine offerings, and black<br />

and white tablecloths, became a venerated<br />

downtown culinary anchor. David, daughter<br />

Natalie (who will take over the restaurant<br />

operation when David eventually retires) and<br />

wife Cindy Kinsella are your hosts and are<br />

on hand to dispense friendly, intelligent and<br />

professional service. David’s protégé Chef<br />

Michael “Elvis” Drennan, assisted by sous chef<br />

Rick Hunt, continues to cook superbly executed<br />

classic French-inspired dishes. Drennan<br />

apprenticed with Chapman at Anthony’s and<br />

has been working with him for the entire run.<br />

The blackboard prix fixe menu changes<br />

daily. The restaurant is known for its multicourse<br />

“Trust Me” dinners — precursors<br />

to today’s chef’s tasting menus, that David<br />

developed at Anthony’s Seafood Bistro.<br />

The food and service remain consistently<br />

impeccable. A savoury-sweet treatment<br />

of honey and rosemary glazed wild boar<br />

tenderloin with cherry compote and<br />

sauerkraut rosti was superb. A gorgeous slab<br />

of rabbit and sweetbread terrine with pear<br />

aioli and pistachio scone is reminiscent of<br />

another of David’s terrines, made of delicate<br />

sweetbreads and leek, served with fig compote<br />

and crunchy cornichons.<br />

Fond memories of exceptional meals at<br />

David’s Bistro over the last 20 years include<br />

a fragrant Provençal-inspired stew with<br />

tender seafood, served with a garlicky rouille<br />

topped crouton; and the pièce de résistance, a<br />

cassoulet of bacon, lamb and duck, with white<br />

The comfortable bar in the dining room is part of the<br />

relaxed but refined bistro ambience at David‘s


eatdrink: The Local Food & Drink Magazine<br />

Your BBQ Headquarters!<br />

More Than 250 Bbq Rubs, Spices & Seasonings<br />

Made Daily Onsite<br />

Gourmet Foods – Kitchenware – Gifts<br />

PROUDLY CANADIAN<br />

http://www.peppertreespice.com<br />

beans adding a delicious intensifying effect to<br />

the stew’s earthy flavours. I recall cornmealcrusted<br />

Lake Erie yellow perch with lemon,<br />

capers and tomato that melted in your mouth,<br />

as well as Lake Erie whitefish cake with<br />

tarragon remoulade. David’s other signature<br />

dishes have included a knockout choucroute<br />

garnie (an Alsatian-inspired mélange of<br />

sauerkraut, sausages and charcuterie) and, of<br />

course, David’s superb confit of duck, on one<br />

memorable occasion served with a delectably<br />

robust gorgonzola tart. The desserts are<br />

house-made in the classic French tradition.<br />

The torchon of chocolate and the apple tarte<br />

Tatin are unbelievably good.<br />

With an extensive consignment selection<br />

and accessibly priced wine list, as well as<br />

interesting chalkboard features, David’s can<br />

lay a claim to having one of the best wine<br />

selections in the city, by both glass and bottle.<br />

David’s Bistro is the benchmark for friendly,<br />

professional service and impeccable dining.<br />

“One thing that has been reinforced by our<br />

time off is the kindness and warmth shown by<br />

our restaurant community with the help and<br />

support that was offered,” says David. “Man, I<br />

love this town. See you soon?”<br />

David’s Bistro<br />

432 Richmond Street, London<br />

519-667-0535<br />

davidsbistro.ca<br />

daily: 5:00 pm-10:00 pm<br />

wednesday–friday: 11:30 am–2:30 pm<br />

7 Days a Week, 223A Colborne St. • Port Stanley<br />

Saturdays at WFFM, 900 King St. • London<br />

519-782-7800 • www.peppertreespice.com<br />

100% Local — from Our Farmers to Your Table<br />

Hormone & Drug-Free<br />

Ontario Beef, Pork, Bison, Lamb & Chicken<br />

THE VILLAGE<br />

MEAT SHOP<br />

LOCAL - NATURAL - QUALITY<br />

<strong>Eatdrink</strong> Food Editor and Writer at Large, BRYAN<br />

LAVERY brings years of experience in the restaurant<br />

and hospitality industry, as a chef, restaurateur and<br />

consultant. Always on the lookout for the stories that<br />

<strong>Eatdrink</strong> should be telling, he helps shape the magazine<br />

both under his byline and behind the scenes.<br />

WE ARE YOUR LONDON OUTLET FOR<br />

• Metzger Meat Products • Lena’s Lamb<br />

• Blanbrook Bison Farm • Little Sisters Chicken<br />

• Glengyle Farm Organics<br />

The Market at Western Fair District: Saturdays, 8am–3pm<br />

226-376-6328 • www.thevillagemeatshop.ca


12 | <strong>July</strong>/<strong>August</strong> <strong>2018</strong><br />

eatdrink.ca |@eatdrinkmag<br />

Restaurants<br />

Stratford’s Gastro Scene<br />

Where to Eat and Drink in <strong>2018</strong><br />

By BRYAN LAVERY<br />

Renowned for its annual Shakespeare<br />

Festival, its gastro scene and<br />

hometown boy Justin Bieber, Stratford<br />

is anything but a quiet little town.<br />

Over the past couple of decades, Stratford’s<br />

been building a reputation as an innovational,<br />

entrepreneurial culinary destination.<br />

This year there are new kids on the culinary<br />

scene like Planet Diner and The Common.<br />

York Street Kitchen was purchased by the<br />

Windsor Hospitality Group and has moved<br />

back to a larger revitalized space on York<br />

Street, previously occupied by the former<br />

Linleys Food Shop. Founder Susie Palach will<br />

be sorely missed. Edison’s Café Bar, where all<br />

food is prepared in-house using fresh, organic<br />

ingredients, has become a charming hub.<br />

While you are in the area be sure to explore<br />

the bucolic countryside in and around Perth<br />

and Oxford Counties. Take in the small towns<br />

of St Marys, Shakespeare, Woodstock and<br />

New Hamburg. Drop by the Stratford Tourism<br />

Alliance for tickets to self-guided culinary<br />

tours like the Bacon & Ale Trail and Chocolate<br />

Trail, which are available all year round.<br />

Stratford is awash with culinary “hubs”<br />

where locals, visitors, chefs, farmers, artists and<br />

Planet Diner<br />

Stratford Chefs School’s annual Long Table Dinner, 2017<br />

artisans gather, such as Market Square, Your<br />

Local Market Co-op, the Local Community Food<br />

Centre, Stratford Farmers’ Market at the Agriplex<br />

(on Saturdays) and the Slow Food Farmers’<br />

Market (on Sundays). There are many great<br />

retailers like Bradshaws Kitchen Detail, Downie<br />

Street Bakehouse (“Really Good Bread from the<br />

Wrong Side of the Tracks”), Watson’s Chelsea<br />

Bazaar and the Milky Whey Fine Cheese Shop.<br />

Windsor Hospitality Group’s Executive Chef<br />

Ryan O’Donnell is excited about the synergies<br />

the culinary team is creating with The Prune,<br />

Bar One Fifty One, Mercer Kitchen and York<br />

Street Kitchen, and how they help create<br />

better and better food. “This flexibility to<br />

react to the best products, as well as synergies<br />

between all our restaurants in Stratford, will<br />

be the most exciting part of the new Prune in<br />

my opinion,” says O’Donnell.<br />

Anne Campion’s Revel on Market Square is a<br />

favourite go-to for a cup of Las Chicas del Café<br />

coffee, sourced from the owners’ family-run<br />

farm in the Nicaraguan rainforest. We love the<br />

custom-made communal table. On Downie<br />

Street The Pulp, Stratford’s plant-based “fresh<br />

bar,” features cold-pressed juice, smoothies and<br />

clean eating with vegan and gluten- and dairy-


eatdrink: The Local Food & Drink Magazine<br />

celebrating 122 years in stratford<br />

Chef Jamie Crosby (right) of The Prune<br />

free options. Grounded is a newer business,<br />

creating fresh, healthy, plant-based food using<br />

whole ingredients. At the time of writing,<br />

Grounded is set to open a storefront on Erie St.<br />

Shakespeare Brewing Company is the newest<br />

craft brewer in the area, and uses 100% local<br />

ingredients. The owners believe the local terroir<br />

is reflected in the flavours of their craft beers.<br />

Black Swan Brewing Company continues to<br />

create innovative seasonal flavours in addition<br />

to the core products: EPA, IPA and porter. You<br />

might want to sample the refreshing Raspberry<br />

Wild Child, made in the German sour beer style.<br />

After 30 years, Chef Bryan Steele has<br />

left The Prune. He continues to be a senior<br />

cookery instructor at Stratford Chefs School.<br />

Lamentably, Rundles and Monforte on<br />

Wellington are gone. Here are a few of my<br />

recommendations, in alphabetical order, of<br />

where to eat and drink in <strong>2018</strong>.<br />

Bar One Fifty One at The Prune has a relaxed<br />

and elegant vibe, the perfect backdrop for<br />

signature cocktails and a varied wine list.<br />

This season the focus is on seafood with an<br />

emphasis on small plates and raw bar offerings.<br />

Bubbles and Oysters anyone? 151 Albert Street,<br />

519-271-5052, theprune.ca /bar-one-fifty-one<br />

Bijou’s farm-to-table blackboard pretheatre<br />

dinner menu is prix fixe. Mark and<br />

Linda Simone purchased the legacy restaurant<br />

four years ago, and added a new entrance off<br />

of Wellington Street and a small bar in the<br />

front area. Chef Roddy Eastman and his team<br />

also offer a globally-inspired tapas bar menu<br />

of small plates (available after 7: 30 p.m., 7:45<br />

p.m. Friday and Saturday). 105 Erie Street,<br />

(2nd entrance off of Wellington Street), 519-<br />

273-5000, bijourestaurant.com


um<br />

A restaurant inspired by<br />

local ingredients.<br />

Run by workers.<br />

Owned by workers.<br />

Shared by the Community.<br />

eatdrink.ca |@eatdrinkmag<br />

The Bruce is at the high end of the dining<br />

spectrum. Chef Arron Carley, sous chef<br />

Christopher Howard and pastry chef Erin<br />

Negus define “New Canadiana” by using only<br />

ingredients found in Canada, enhanced by<br />

produce from their own farm and gardens.<br />

Prix fixe menus (3-courses for $95.00 with a<br />

7 Days a Week<br />

Reservations Recommended<br />

um<br />

64 Wellington St, Stratford<br />

redrabbitresto.com<br />

519.305.6464<br />

@redrabbitresto<br />

global tapas with local ingredients<br />

fresh cocktails<br />

Perfect for dinner before or snacks after the show<br />

Wednesday–Sunday from 5pm<br />

85 Downie St, Stratford<br />

(next to Avon Theatre)<br />

519.305.8585<br />

85Downie.com<br />

The Bruce<br />

$45.00 optional wine pairing) or the avantgarde<br />

“Fauna” tasting menu (7-courses for<br />

$115.00 with a $65.00 optional wine pairing)<br />

are laden with ingredients which the term<br />

“New Canadiana” evokes. Breakfast, lunch and<br />

Sunday brunch are à la carte, and The Lounge<br />

offers a separate menu. There is a stylish<br />

courtyard for al fresco dining. 89 Parkview<br />

Drive, 855-708-7100, thebruce.ca<br />

The Common is located in the refurbished<br />

space previously occupied by Monforte on<br />

Wellington. Chef Tim Otsuki offers a mix of<br />

global comfort food. Think, Imam Bayildi<br />

stuffed roasted eggplant with sweet onions,<br />

peppers, spicy chickpeas, rice pilaf and house<br />

yogurt; or Hot Spatchcock Chicken Sandwich<br />

with bread pudding stuffing and gravy; or<br />

Roast Hoisin Pork Tenderloin with Szechuan<br />

stir-fry vegetables<br />

on steamed rice<br />

pilaf. The tagline<br />

is “Eat Without<br />

Borders.” There is<br />

a newly appointed<br />

patio for outdoor<br />

drinking and dining.<br />

80 Wellington<br />

Street, 519-271-0999,<br />

thecommonstratford.com<br />

Foster’s Inn is<br />

Stratford’s original<br />

heritage boutique<br />

inn, situated in a<br />

The Common<br />

turn-of-the-century


eatdrink: The Local Food & Drink Magazine<br />

The Ultimate Family Fun Weekend<br />

Foster’s Inn<br />

building two doors from the Avon Theatre off of<br />

Market Square. Restaurateur Craig Foster prides<br />

himself on the authenticity of the hospitality<br />

and service. The inn features nine individuallyappointed<br />

guest rooms, a restaurant, and a<br />

tiny cocktail bar. Foster’s is a go-to for mouthwatering<br />

char-grilled steaks and burgers as well<br />

as re-imagined comfort foods made with local<br />

ingredients. There is a House Cured and Cold-<br />

Smoked Pork Tenderloin and a Coconut Green<br />

Curry Tofu. 111 Downie Street, 519-271-1119,<br />

fostersinn.com<br />

This season Mercer Kitchen + Beer Hall +<br />

Hotel has some great new menu items, while<br />

retaining some<br />

tried and true<br />

signatures. The<br />

casual brasseriestyle<br />

ambience<br />

is inspired by<br />

the concept<br />

of izakaya<br />

— informal<br />

Japanese beer<br />

pubs. There<br />

Mercer Kitchen<br />

are 15 draft<br />

lines and over<br />

120 bottles,<br />

including international award-winners and<br />

hard-to-find one-offs. Menus showcase items<br />

that are meant to be shared communally and are<br />

perfect for the lively, dynamic atmosphere. Try<br />

the House-Smoked Salmon Board with herbed<br />

chèvre, red onion, fried capers and roe, or a<br />

choice of Banh Mi, or Korean BBQ-glazed Crispy<br />

Chicken Rice Bowl. 104-108 Ontario Street, 519-<br />

271-9202, mercerhall.ca<br />

The Mill Stone features a globally-inspired<br />

all-day menu, bolstered by a rotating selection<br />

of feature dishes that focus on light and<br />

healthy fare with plant-based and glutenfree<br />

options. New this year is a nose-to-tail<br />

feature that explores the hidden gems of<br />

whole animal butchery. Sweetbreads, chicken<br />

Ontario Garlic & Artisan Market<br />

featuring over 60 vendors<br />

• Exclusive Tastings pairing artisanal<br />

cheeses with wines, beers and spirits<br />

• Cooking Demonstrations<br />

• Educational Forums<br />

• Live Entertainment<br />

September 8th & 9th<br />

Stratford Rotary Complex, 353 McCarthy Road<br />

Admission $10/day or $15 for 2-day pass<br />

Children 12 & under free<br />

Free parking and bike valet service<br />

“A fun place to shop<br />

for housewares and gifts!”<br />

We stock a large selection of your<br />

favourite colours and accessories.<br />

Now Available ...<br />

Mulberry — Fiesta’s Colour of the Year!<br />

WATSON’S<br />

CHELSEA BAZAAR<br />

84 Ontario St. Stratford<br />

watsonsofstratford.com<br />

519-273-1790


eatdrink.ca |@eatdrinkmag<br />

The Mill Stone<br />

What’s Your Flavour?<br />

Amaretto<br />

Cherry<br />

Follow us to see what’s fresh today!<br />

Fresh & Frozen<br />

Eat-In or Take-Out<br />

45+ Soup Flavours<br />

Vegan, Dairy Free &<br />

Gluten Free Options<br />

No additives or<br />

preservatives<br />

Tuesday–Friday 11–6 • Saturday 11–4<br />

Sunday 10–2 at Stratford Slow Food Market<br />

98 Wellington St., Stratford 519.497.5167<br />

soupsurreal.com<br />

and cod tongues are some of the dishes in<br />

store. This high-energy bistro features locallybrewed<br />

beer on tap and a varied bottle list,<br />

with a focus on Canadian wines and a refined<br />

international selection. Ontario Street, 519-<br />

273-5886, themillstone.ca<br />

Okazu 85 Downie is Stratford’s hot spot for<br />

delicious chef-inspired cuisine and is the perfect<br />

after theatre or late-night stop. Stop by for<br />

dinner to taste global fusion prepared with local<br />

inspiration, or for fresh cocktails like the Yuzu<br />

Sour or Mermaid Margarita, shaken or stirred<br />

by the fabulous staff until the early hours. Chef<br />

de cuisine Angela Murphy and Ben O’Brien spin<br />

a modern twist<br />

on dim sum and<br />

tapas featuring<br />

items like rusticstyle<br />

Perth<br />

pork paté with<br />

fruit chutney;<br />

spice-rubbed<br />

pork belly with<br />

sticky rice; and<br />

potato curry<br />

with roasted<br />

cauliflower,<br />

house masala,<br />

Okazu 85 Downie<br />

pickled greens and lentil salad. 85 Downie Street,<br />

519-305-8585, OkazuSnackBar.com<br />

Pazzo Taverna and Pizzeria. The streetlevel<br />

taverna offers rustic Italian-inspired<br />

cuisine in a contemporary setting overlooking<br />

the Avon River. The pizzeria, located in the<br />

historic cellar of the building, is known for<br />

having the best build-your-own thin crust<br />

pizza. Chef Yva Santini is celebrating her<br />

eleventh season at the 21-year-old restaurant.<br />

All of the incredible pastas are made in-house.<br />

Santini showcases simple, natural flavours<br />

of locally-sourced meats and produce in the<br />

Italian tradition, combined with a diverse list of<br />

Canadian and imported wines by the glass and<br />

bottle. There is a charming street-side patio. 70<br />

Ontario Street, 519-273-6666, pazzo.ca


eatdrink: The Local Food & Drink Magazine<br />

The Planet Diner, with candy-apple red<br />

upholstered booths and 50s vibe, is warm<br />

and welcoming with enthusiastic and wellinformed<br />

staff. Owner Dee Christensen says,<br />

“This is where herbivores can bring their<br />

carnivore friends.” Most items on the the<br />

menu are derived from plant-based foods,<br />

with a few meat-based options. There’s<br />

just nothing like the Chick’un burger made<br />

in-house with vegan buffalo butter. Try the<br />

cashew-based banana split, bound to be a hit<br />

with die-hard ice cream lovers.118 Downie<br />

Street, 519-305-5888, theplanetdiner.com<br />

The Prune has been a Stratford favourite<br />

since 1977. Chef de cuisine Jamie Crosby<br />

is leading the culinary team. He was<br />

formerly chef de Cuisine at The Little Inn in<br />

Bayfield, and most recently chef de partie<br />

at restaurateur Jenn Agg’s Grey Gardens in<br />

Toronto. Crosby and sous chef Mike Booth<br />

are planning on keeping the menu fluid this<br />

season by changing it daily, if necessary, to<br />

showcase the best of Perth County’s bounty<br />

as it arrives at the kitchen door. There is a prix<br />

fixe menu, offering three courses for $79.00 or<br />

four courses for $89.00 or a six-course “Carte<br />

Blanche” for $109.00. Wine pairing packages<br />

are available. 151 Albert Street, 519-271-5052,<br />

theprune.com<br />

Raja Fine Indian Cuisine is the definitive<br />

place for authentic Northern Indian food in<br />

Stratford. Raja offers upscale Indian cuisine<br />

in sophisticated and elegant surroundings,<br />

and knowledgeable, well-trained staff. The<br />

service is white linen, deferential and friendly.<br />

Foods are prepared from scratch with fresh<br />

ingredients. The heat quotient of dishes can<br />

be adjusted to guest preferences. Raja offers<br />

milder Indian fare such as Butter Chicken,<br />

Korma, and Tikka Masala. 10 George Street<br />

West, 519-271-3271, rajastratford.ca<br />

Raja Fine Indian Cuisine<br />

<strong>July</strong>/<strong>August</strong> <strong>2018</strong> | 17<br />

“Our bodies are our gardens<br />

to which our wills are gardeners.”<br />

— William Shakespeare<br />

Awaken your taste buds<br />

with over 50 choices of fresh,<br />

olive oils & balsamic vinegars,<br />

all in the heart of Stratford.<br />

21 York Street<br />

TUES, WED, THURS, SAT 10–5;<br />

FRI 10–6; SUN 12–4; Closed MON<br />

519-508-1757<br />

oliveyourfavourites.com<br />

“The Oldest Coffee Shop in Stratford”<br />

Coffees & Teas (or order online for home brewing)<br />

5 Stocked Humidors with Accessories<br />

Specialty Food Items including Gluten Free<br />

17 York Street, Stratford<br />

519-273-6768<br />

www.buzzstop.com


18 | <strong>July</strong>/<strong>August</strong> <strong>2018</strong><br />

eatdrink.ca |@eatdrinkmag<br />

The Red Rabbit<br />

The Red Rabbit. “A locally sourced<br />

restaurant, run by workers, owned by<br />

workers, shared by the community,” sums up<br />

the three-year-old resto’s ethos. Jonathan<br />

Naiman is now the head chef with Sean<br />

Collins overseeing the kitchen as executive<br />

chef. Chef Collins terms the cooking at Red<br />

Rabbit as “flavour first, ingredient driven,”<br />

and his motto is, “We cook food we like to<br />

eat.” The team has crafted an evolving menu<br />

of well-executed comfort foods. The fixed price<br />

menu returns for pre-theatre dining Tuesday<br />

to Saturday, 5-7 p.m., with the “After 7” menu<br />

available from 7:30 p.m. onward Thursday<br />

to Saturday evenings. The Red Rabbit is<br />

known for Colonel Collins fried chicken and<br />

waffles (available at lunch). Its secret recipe<br />

of thirteen herbs and spices, maple syrup<br />

and carrot hot sauce has made it a Stratford<br />

culinary staple. 64 Wellington Street, 519-305-<br />

6464, redrabbitresto.com<br />

Revival House and The Belfry is<br />

Stratford’s home for live music, dining and<br />

events, and it continues to play host to many<br />

touring and local Canadian artists throughout<br />

the summer season. Chef Loreena Miller and<br />

culinary team are passionate about creating<br />

and serving foods that express the depth of<br />

Perth County’s food culture. Recent menus<br />

have revived French-Canadian style cuisine,<br />

Revival House<br />

WHERE TASTE REIGNS SUPREME<br />

FINE INDIAN CUISINE<br />

Stratford<br />

10 George St. W.<br />

519-271-3271<br />

Kitchener<br />

725 Belmont Ave. W.<br />

519-208-2811<br />

rajaindiancuisine.ca


eatdrink: The Local Food & Drink Magazine<br />

with an added modern sensibility. Upstairs,<br />

The Belfry features a 60-seat gastro-lounge<br />

and a VIP balcony called Confession. There<br />

is a 48-seat garden terrace-oasis beside<br />

the Brunswick Street entrance. High Tea<br />

and Sunday Brunch add another layer of<br />

temptation to the offerings. 70 Brunswick<br />

Street, 519-273-3424, revival.house<br />

Sample delicious local eats,<br />

meet inspiring producers and<br />

marvel at the tempting array<br />

of fresh and artisanal edibles.<br />

From farm to table, pork to pies<br />

to pints, discover more<br />

in Perth County!<br />

Romeos Corner Café<br />

Romeos Corner Café, a friendly, familyoperated<br />

restaurant, features comfortable<br />

booths and tables and is within walking<br />

distance of the Festival Theatre. There is<br />

an extensive breakfast menu with omelets,<br />

skillets and a “Benvolio Benny” with<br />

mushrooms, spinach and caramelized onions.<br />

A menu of elevated comfort foods is also<br />

offered for lunch and dinner including savoury<br />

Chicken Pot Pie, Ontario grass-fed Beef<br />

Burgers and Mac N Cheese. There are some<br />

tables for outdoor dining. 584 Ontario Street,<br />

519-272-2777<br />

York Street Kitchen is Stratford’s<br />

quintessential sandwich shop and has been<br />

a local institution since 1989. This popular<br />

diner and takeaway offer fabulous build<br />

your own “Show Stoppers” sandwiches. Try<br />

“The Mennonite” sandwich with Bauman’s<br />

Summer Sausage, honey mustard, mayo,<br />

cheddar, corn relish, lettuce and tomato on<br />

sourdough bread. Other options include<br />

“Not Sandwiches”, “Swell Sides” and housemade<br />

“Sweets”. The YSK’s famous take-out<br />

window is perfect for your picnic in the<br />

park. New location is in the former Linleys<br />

Food Shop at 51 York Street, 519-273-7041,<br />

yorkstreetkitchen.com<br />

<strong>Eatdrink</strong> Food Editor and Writer at Large, BRYAN<br />

LAVERY brings years of experience in the restaurant<br />

and hospitality industry, as a chef, restaurateur and<br />

consultant. Always on the lookout for the stories that<br />

<strong>Eatdrink</strong> should be telling, he helps shape the magazine<br />

both under his byline and behind the scenes.<br />

restaurants<br />

farm gates<br />

food shops<br />

Find us, follow us!<br />

#DiscoverMore #PerthCounty<br />

@PerthCoTourism<br />

perthcountytourism.ca


20 | <strong>July</strong>/<strong>August</strong> <strong>2018</strong><br />

eatdrink.ca |@eatdrinkmag<br />

SPONSORED BY<br />

Road Trips<br />

County Bounty<br />

Culinary Adventures in Huron County<br />

By JANE ANTONIAK<br />

You could call a food and beverage<br />

road trip through Huron County<br />

crop touring at its finest. If you<br />

love to cruise the two-lane back<br />

roads while snacking and sipping your way<br />

around the region then the new Taste of Huron<br />

— Taste Your Own Adventure awaits. This<br />

self-guided tour features $5 samples at nearly<br />

30 places. You choose how many samples<br />

you want and you can pre-purchase online<br />

vouchers for items ranging from honey, jam,<br />

cheese, and pastry to coffee, wine and apple<br />

cider. There are also restaurants with hot<br />

food samples including perch, pastries and<br />

tapas. Or, you can drop in on local producers<br />

Beach Street Station<br />

for everything from garlic herb mixes to pork<br />

chops and porkerettes.<br />

If you want to do a tasting tour of the town<br />

of Goderich there is a five-stop package that<br />

includes samples of perch at Beach Street<br />

Station — the converted heritage railway<br />

station now situated on the Goderich main<br />

beach. Open for lunch and dinner, the vaulted<br />

ceilings and 1907 architecture create interesting<br />

ambiance, but the large patio overlooking the<br />

beach is also very inviting.<br />

You might grab a locally-roasted coffee and<br />

a pastry at the fabulous Cait’s Café on the<br />

square. Cait and husband Spencer Vail are<br />

Cait’s Café<br />

dedicated to using local products, especially<br />

from Huron County, and have been Feast<br />

ON-certified. The buttery croissants might be<br />

enough on their own, but only get better with<br />

a thick slice of Metzger’s bacon or a slice of<br />

a local organic tomato. Cait’s the baker and<br />

Spencer, who served as executive chef at nearby<br />

Benmiller Inn for six years, calls his cooking<br />

style “Progressive Canadian.” Check out what’s<br />

fresh that day.<br />

Enjoy a refreshing beer tasting from<br />

Square Brew near the YMCA. Just down the<br />

road in Seaforth, you’ll find the Maitland<br />

Market, where you can pick up some fresh<br />

Ontario produce, organic and pasture-raised<br />

Samuel’s Hotel


Trust...<br />

Taste...<br />

Quality...<br />

eatdrink.ca |@eatdrinkmag<br />

Maitland Market<br />

meats, locally made cheese and organic and<br />

free run eggs.<br />

Another stop on the Goderich tour might<br />

include lunch, dinner or just a great dessert<br />

at Samuel’s Hotel, situated a few kilometres<br />

from Goderich in Salford. This boutique hotel<br />

offers wonderful amenities, with a private<br />

Your Source for<br />

Dry Aged Steaks,<br />

Sausages, Burgers & Kebabs<br />

and so much more ...<br />

• Sourced locally from trusted farms<br />

• Traditional European preparation methods<br />

• The latest in food processing innovation<br />

Open six days a week.<br />

Hensall, Ontario<br />

Just off Hwy 4,<br />

45 minutes north of London.<br />

www.metzgermeats.com<br />

519-262-3130<br />

Available in London at<br />

The Village Meat Shop<br />

at Western Fair Farmers’ Market<br />

on Saturdays!<br />

Local Beef • Pork • Lamb • Poultry<br />

Specialty European Meat Products<br />

patio and fireplace<br />

in every room,<br />

and house-made<br />

gourmet cupcakes<br />

in the lobby.<br />

Daytrippers are<br />

welcomed too, and<br />

Shopbike<br />

Coffee Roasters<br />

the lunch and dinner menus include a strong<br />

list of nearby suppliers, including local beers<br />

and wines. Check out the inspiring dine-andstay<br />

packages available.<br />

While in Goderich you shouldn’t miss a<br />

crème-filled donut at Culbert’s Bakery. It<br />

is not on the tour but well worth a stop. The<br />

Culbert’s Bakery


eatdrink: The Local Food & Drink Magazine<br />

bakery typically sells out early on weekends.<br />

For a sit-down meal to celebrate a special<br />

occasion or for a break from the road, Thyme<br />

on 21 offers lovely lunches and dinners in a<br />

historic home just off the square on Highway<br />

21. Family-owned and operated, this special<br />

place believes in full service with an easy<br />

country pace. It is consistently rated a top<br />

place to dine in Goderich.<br />

For those who want the country roads<br />

experience, the Highway 21 five-stop tour is a<br />

fun way to cruise the coast of beautiful Lake<br />

Huron. It would be ideal to start this tour in<br />

Bayfield at Shopbike Coffee Roasters, where<br />

the sample is a bag of Fair Trade coffee to take<br />

home. However, check out the amazing gelato<br />

while you’re there too. Fourteen fresh flavours<br />

and counting ...<br />

Take a scoop of gelato or a take-out cup of<br />

coffee for the road and head to Zehr’s Country<br />

Market, about five kilometres south, where<br />

your sample is a two-pack of pork chops. Obviously,<br />

that goes in the cooler! What you really<br />

want for the road trip from Zehr’s is a warm and<br />

sticky Chelsea bun and a butter tart. Heck, take<br />

a half dozen of each! The pies are also fabulous.<br />

If you are there for a long weekend, a good tip is<br />

“Elevated, high quality, fresh local<br />

ingredients, handmade with love.”<br />

Quote<br />

EATDRINKCAITS<br />

and get 15% OFF<br />

any pastry item!<br />

One per customer.<br />

168 Courthouse Square, Goderich<br />

519-612-2268 caitscafe.ca<br />

A Contemporary Urban Bistro in a Historical Setting<br />

“A beautiful restaurant<br />

with an amazing menu.”<br />

— TripAdvisor Award Winner<br />

Lunch • Dinner • Brunch • Now 2 locations!<br />

Reservations recommended<br />

226.523.3663<br />

428 Queen Street, Blyth<br />

519.524.5392<br />

10 Courthouse Square, Goderich<br />

www.part2bistro.ca<br />

Great coffee. Great food. Great atmosphere. Feel like Royalty!<br />

QUEENS<br />

B A K E R Y<br />

& AC C O M M O DATI O N S<br />

430 Queen St.<br />

Blyth ON<br />

226-523-9720<br />

queensbakery.ca<br />

queensbakery@tcc.on.ca


eatdrink.ca |@eatdrinkmag<br />

Become a Local for the Day!<br />

Beer, Wine & Cider<br />

Tours out of London,<br />

St. Thomas, Sarnia<br />

& Grand Bend area.<br />

Explore Lambton,<br />

Huron & Perth Counties.<br />

Tour Stops include about 15 Breweries,<br />

3 Wineries, a Distillery and a Cidery.<br />

Tour with the PedalPub!<br />

The PedalPub is the bike with the barrel!<br />

This is a unique, fun, safe and ecological<br />

way for your<br />

group of 8 to<br />

16 adults to<br />

enjoy a brew<br />

tour together.<br />

The London<br />

Libations<br />

PedalPub Tour explores London’s<br />

historic Old East Village, with a tour<br />

guide and driver and stops for tastings at<br />

various craft breweries and local<br />

businesses.<br />

In Grand Bend, the PedalPub Patio Beer<br />

Tour travels River Street and down “the<br />

Main Drag” for tastings at interesting<br />

bars, restaurants and local hotspots.<br />

Tours are ideal for tourists, bridal<br />

parties or corporate functions, or just<br />

a fun way to spend time with friends.<br />

Custom Tours are available.<br />

For more info and to book your tour, go to:<br />

tourtheshoreinquir.wixsite.com/tourtheshore<br />

or contact<br />

bradley.oke@gmail.com<br />

Bad Apple Brewing Co.<br />

to order the pies ahead of time. In season, the<br />

market also sells fruits and vegetables along<br />

with a full line of meats fresh and frozen. Note,<br />

this market is closed on Sundays.<br />

The rest of the Highway 21 tasting tour<br />

takes you further south for apple-based beers<br />

at Bad Apple Brewing Co/Ingram’s Apple<br />

Orchard, and then for some salty goodness<br />

in the form of pork pepperettes at The Whole<br />

Pig in Dashwood, just off the highway. While<br />

in Dashwood you may also want top pop into<br />

Hayter’s Farm for some turkey products, so<br />

bring that cooler! Another pro tip: Hayter’s is<br />

also the local LCBO outlet.<br />

As you wind your way back to Bayfield,<br />

pop into the Bayfield Berry Farm for your<br />

sample of jam to take home. In season, you<br />

can also pick up fruits and vegetables.<br />

Staying the night in Bayfield is always a treat<br />

and there are more options in the village than<br />

ever before. After decades in the hospitality<br />

The Whole Pig<br />

business, Harry Israel sold The Red Pump Inn<br />

to a local investor who has, in turn, leased it<br />

out to a entrepreneurial family, the Wallaces.<br />

Graham Wallace has run a few businesses in<br />

Bayfield including the Charles Street Market.<br />

His sister Jennifer runs the cute gift shop Hive.<br />

Wallace and his partner Chef Cody McWhirter<br />

are well along in the process of converting The<br />

Red Pump into The Lake House of Bayfield.<br />

The location offers seven spacious guest rooms,<br />

some with their own balconies overlooking<br />

main street and all outfitted with antique


eatdrink: The Local Food & Drink Magazine<br />

<strong>July</strong>/<strong>August</strong> <strong>2018</strong> | 25


26 | <strong>July</strong>/<strong>August</strong> <strong>2018</strong><br />

furnishings. As well, there is now a spa onsite<br />

and overnight packages include spa, dining<br />

and golf at a nearby course. A small conference<br />

space is available for meetings. Wallace is<br />

clearly thrilled to be taking over the reins of a<br />

landmark location. “There’s a lot of history and<br />

character in this place,” he says. “We have taken<br />

it from fine dining to a lot more casual.”<br />

Thankfully, Wallace and McWhirter<br />

have kept the lovely backyard patio open.<br />

McWhirter has created a tasty patio menu.<br />

The Baron Burger is a real treat. It features<br />

Experience Hessenland Inn & Vineyard<br />

Where heritage is infused into every vine and vintage<br />

Join us for one of our<br />

Signature Events!<br />

• Long Table Vineyard Dinners<br />

• Mongolian Grill<br />

• Weddings, Conferences & Retreats<br />

• Novemberfest & MORE!<br />

Accommodations • Award-Winning Gardens • Private Beach Access<br />

Vineyard • Dining Room with European & Locally Inspired Fare<br />

Located steps from Lake Huron between Grand Bend & Bayfield<br />

Call 519-236-7707 or 866-543-7736<br />

hessen@hessenland.com • www.hessenland.com<br />

Reservations required for all events<br />

eatdrink.ca |@eatdrinkmag<br />

smoked bacon from The Whole Pig on a<br />

succulent burger patty of fresh ground brisket<br />

and chuck beef. Also packed inside the brioche<br />

bun is smoked cheddar cheese and fresh<br />

vegetable toppings. McWhirter previously<br />

cooked at the popular DaVinci Ristorante,<br />

which is now closed after a long and successful<br />

run. There are two local beers on tap from<br />

River Road Brewing and Hops in Bayfield<br />

(the Zesty Farmer Pale Ale offers a citrus<br />

freshness) and a pilsner from Stone House<br />

Brewing Co. in nearby Varna. A lunch and<br />

dinner menu is in the works for the summer<br />

months.<br />

Bayfield accommo<br />

dations are also<br />

available at The Little<br />

Inn, a historic venue<br />

very popular with<br />

wedding groups and<br />

couples looking for<br />

a getaway. Arguably,<br />

it has the most<br />

lovely breakfast<br />

service in the county.<br />

Near town is The<br />

Ashwood Inn with<br />

affordable motelstyle<br />

rooms which<br />

The Lake House of Bayfield<br />

The Ashwood<br />

Bourbon Bar<br />

Featuring<br />

Creative Menus<br />

from Chefs<br />

Erryn Shephard<br />

&<br />

Ben Sandwith<br />

Always Available<br />

for Caterings!<br />

519.238.6224<br />

42 Ontario St. S., Grand Bend<br />

www.finearestaurant.com<br />

Lunch and Dinner — Seasonal Hours<br />

Reservations Recommended


eatdrink: The Local Food & Drink Magazine<br />

Hessenland Country Inn<br />

include beach access to their sister property<br />

across the highway. Within the inn, The<br />

Ashwood Bourbon Bar offers an inviting<br />

contemporary dining dinner menu with<br />

plenty of interesting shareables and hearty<br />

mains and, as advertised, an exceptional bar.<br />

South of Bayfield on Highway 21 at St.<br />

Joseph is the Hessenland Country Inn.<br />

The Inn has five acres of groomed gardens, an<br />

emerging vineyard and a outdoor pool with<br />

indoor hot tub spa. If you happen to stay over<br />

on a Thursday evening in <strong>July</strong> or <strong>August</strong> you<br />

can enjoy the Mongolian Grill. This popular<br />

summertime tradition gives guests the chance<br />

Welcome.<br />

519-565-2576<br />

LakeHouseofBayfield.com<br />

BISTRO<br />

CONFERENCE<br />

SUITES<br />

SPA<br />

Riverside Boutique Hotel<br />

featuring local food and drink.<br />

519-565-2576<br />

LakeHouseofBayfield.com<br />

Samuels Hotel<br />

34031 Saltford Rd, Goderich<br />

519.524.1371<br />

samuelshotel.ca


28 | <strong>July</strong>/<strong>August</strong> <strong>2018</strong><br />

The Black Dog Pub & Bistro<br />

to create their own combination plates of fish,<br />

seafood, meats and vegetables which are grilled<br />

outdoors by Chef Frank Ihrig and his staff.<br />

Indoors, there is live music and additional<br />

foods including spätzle, salad and desserts. The<br />

meal comes with a glass of wine or beer.<br />

If you are staying the night, no stop-over<br />

in Bayfield is complete without popping into<br />

neighbourhood pubs The Black Dog Pub<br />

& Bistro and The Albion Hotel. Just look<br />

for the line-ups. Yes, you can bring your dog<br />

to the patio at the Black Dog. While there,<br />

the enthusiastic bar staff will make you an<br />

outstanding Caesar or suggest one of the<br />

eatdrink.ca |@eatdrinkmag<br />

20 beers on tap. You also can tap into the<br />

knowledge banks of owner Ted McIntosh, an<br />

expert in the field of single malt whiskeys.<br />

The food is equally stellar with such filling<br />

offerings as the Southern Pickle Fried Chicken<br />

Sandwich and six impressive burgers.<br />

Another way to enjoy Tastes of Huron is via<br />

an escorted tour bus/van operated by Tour<br />

the Shore. The company is owned by Brad<br />

Oke of Grand Bend, the man behind Smackwater<br />

Jack’s Taphouse. Guests can take a<br />

half-day or full-day tour of Taste of Huron<br />

experiences and other venues that specialize<br />

in beer, wine, spirts and food while letting<br />

Cowbell Brewing Co.<br />

Fresh Local<br />

Huron County Produce<br />

Free Range and Grass Fed<br />

Beef, Chicken, Pork & Lamb<br />

519-524-0773<br />

79988 Porter’s Hill Line/Hwy 8<br />

just east of Goderich


eatdrink: The Local Food & Drink Magazine<br />

someone else<br />

do the driving.<br />

A variety<br />

of tours visit<br />

some of the<br />

local breweries<br />

(15) and wineries<br />

(3). The<br />

company won<br />

a Southwestern<br />

Ontario<br />

Tourism<br />

Innovation<br />

Award and<br />

was named the<br />

Grand Bend<br />

Entrepreneur<br />

of the Year<br />

Queen’s Bakery & Part II Bistro for 2017. New<br />

this year is<br />

the PedalPub Patio Beer Tour in Grand Bend.<br />

In groups of 8–16 people, a guide and driver<br />

helps you navigate to a variety of local tastings<br />

while you get a little exercise. Fun!<br />

If you are making this a Huron County<br />

weekend, great afternoon or evening<br />

entertainment will be found at the Blyth<br />

Festival. Original Canadian plays run in<br />

repertoire all summer. For a truly Canadian<br />

theatre experience, check out The New<br />

Canadian Curling Club by Mark Crawford. [See<br />

our theatre column in this issue for more<br />

details.] If you time it right, you could also<br />

enjoy a country supper in Blyth. The little<br />

town of Blyth includes some surprisingly<br />

wonderful dining options. Just across the<br />

street from the theatre, Part II Bistro<br />

presents sophisticated local farm-to-table<br />

dining in a charming space. The restaurant<br />

has been so warmly received that a second<br />

location opened this winter in Goderich.<br />

Queen’s Bakery, next door, features light<br />

lunches such as sandwiches and fresh salads,<br />

along with delectable treats baked on site.<br />

Cowbell Brewing Co., a new destination<br />

craft brewery, features a beautiful restaurant<br />

with indoor and outdoor seating, a retail<br />

store, and entertainment spaces. Long<br />

anticipated, Cowbell has attracted excited<br />

crowds since it opened.<br />

<strong>July</strong>/<strong>August</strong> <strong>2018</strong> | 29<br />

Contemporary Dining<br />

in Historic Bayfield<br />

34777 Bayfield River Road, Bayfield<br />

519.280.2599<br />

bourbonbar@theashwood.com<br />

Lakefront dining for all occasions<br />

150 person beachfront patio with view of world-class sunsets<br />

Daily specials including fresh fish & succulent steaks<br />

Live Entertainment every Friday & Saturday night<br />

Huron County’s premier venue for social & corporate functions<br />

Open Monday<br />

to Sunday<br />

at 11:30 am<br />

Join us for Brunch every Sunday at 10 am<br />

For reservations, contact<br />

info@beachstreetstation.com or 519.612.2212<br />

JANE ANTONIAK is a regular contributor to <strong>Eatdrink</strong>.<br />

She is also Manager, Communications & Media Relations,<br />

at King’s University College in London.<br />

Find us on Facebook<br />

www.beachstreetstation.com<br />

2 Beach Street, Goderich ON


30 | <strong>July</strong>/<strong>August</strong> <strong>2018</strong><br />

eatdrink.ca |@eatdrinkmag<br />

The BUZZ<br />

Culinary Community Notes<br />

London<br />

It is that time of year again and we’re moving ahead<br />

as briskly as we can with an updated London’s Local<br />

Flavour Culinary Guide. Last year, we took over<br />

publication and distribution from Tourism London<br />

and we’re happy to report that the 30,000 copies<br />

we printed was the right amount. They were all<br />

picked up at the important venues, like through the<br />

tourism offices in London and across Southwestern<br />

Ontario. Throughout the year, large quantities<br />

were picked up at London International Airport<br />

and at the best farmers’ markets, and thousands<br />

were picked up at Remark Fresh Markets and at<br />

select restaurants, shops and cultural venues like<br />

Museum London and The Grand Theatre. This year,<br />

for Volume 7 of the guide, we are excited to allow<br />

select out-of-town neighbours to participate in<br />

Local Flavour. These additions will both broaden<br />

the appeal of the guide and accentuate the appeal<br />

of London as a hub in the region’s exciting culinary<br />

offerings.<br />

Shave and a haircut… and a shot of Scotch?<br />

Whistling Dick’s Barber Shop, at 760 Dundas Street<br />

East, promises patrons a haven that is also an<br />

escape to the past. Owners Greg Kahnert and John<br />

Parlow, along with barbers Jose Interiano and Scott<br />

Wilkins, offer old school barbershop services. Once<br />

the liquor license application is approved patrons<br />

will be also be able to enjoy a beverage. Truly,<br />

“more than a barbershop.”<br />

Life of Leisure Surf + Social Club is “a cultural<br />

movement toward the intersection of purpose and<br />

pleasure.” The premises at 792 Dundas Street East<br />

(across from Aeolian Hall) house a clothing store,<br />

an art gallery, a studio, and an event space.<br />

The Pub on Richmond is now open at 731 Richmond<br />

Street (just south of Oxford), offering traditional<br />

English pub fare, daily specials, DJ and acoustic<br />

music nights. There is also a rooftop patio. Open<br />

daily for lunch, dinner and late night.<br />

Looking for more healthy eats in Old East?<br />

Introducing Margo and Tuffy, brought to you by<br />

Angela Rivard, founder of Revkor, and located<br />

in the same building on Adelaide at Princess<br />

beside the Boombox Bakeshop. You can find<br />

the Revkor team serving up everything from<br />

healthy fresh salads and mouth-watering sweets<br />

to thirst quenching drinks and Booch Organic<br />

Kombucha slushies. facebook.com/Margo-and-<br />

Tuffy-2042509336037520/<br />

Known in London as creators of the “crispy chicken<br />

sandwich of the week”, brothers Dimitris and Ilias<br />

Korakianitis (of Kosmos Eatery on Richmond Row)<br />

are set to launch their latest venture, Dimi’s Greek<br />

House, located next to the Barakat expansion.<br />

Although the opening has been delayed, Chef Jason<br />

Astels tell us it is expected soon. The new resto will<br />

be licensed for 50, with a 28-seat patio.<br />

David’s Bistro will be closed <strong>July</strong> 1–15 for the<br />

annual summer holiday. The classic French bistro<br />

is a venerated downtown London culinary anchor.<br />

Read the feature article in this issue of <strong>Eatdrink</strong>.<br />

Forest City Cookbook publisher and photographer<br />

Alieska Robles appreciates everyone’s patience<br />

Discover Heather's Incomparable Journeys<br />

Impeccable Italy — October 10–27, <strong>2018</strong><br />

Featuring Lake Como, Tuscany, Amalfi Coast and Rome<br />

The Slow Roads of Ireland — Sept. 5–24 , <strong>2018</strong><br />

Explore Donegal, Connemara, Cork & Kerry and Dublin<br />

Small group bespoke tours enjoying a<br />

relaxed itinerary with inclusive pricing,<br />

door to door from London, Ontario<br />

www.heathersincomparablejourneys.ca<br />

For any and all of your travel needs<br />

519-473-8591<br />

Heather Wilkinson<br />

31 Nottinghill Gate, Suite 203,<br />

Oakville ON TICO#50013851<br />

Travel<br />

Industry Council of Ontario


eatdrink: The Local Food & Drink Magazine<br />

during the completion of the cookbook. The much<br />

anticipated cookbook is expected to be available at<br />

the end of <strong>July</strong>, early <strong>August</strong>.. Check the website for<br />

details. forestcitycookbook.com<br />

Growing Chefs! Ontario is celebrating its one<br />

year anniversary at the Headquarters and Food<br />

Education Centre in the former Auberge du Petit<br />

Prince restaurant. It is a venue where Londoners<br />

young and old can get excited about growing,<br />

cooking, sharing, and celebrating delicious healthy<br />

food together. growingchefsontario.ca<br />

Idlewyld Inn & Spa features a locally-inspired<br />

menu of contemporary and traditional favourites<br />

and decadent desserts, complemented by a<br />

selection of award-winning wines, and draughts and<br />

ales on tap. Enjoy al fresco dining on the gracious<br />

front porch, or escape to Idlewyld’s hidden garden<br />

courtyard. Back by popular demand, Chef Trevor<br />

Stephens is master of the grill. Summer BBQ nights<br />

are held Wednesdays and Thursdays. 36 Grand Ave,<br />

519-432-5554, idlewyld.com<br />

The Church Key Bistro-Pub follows in the Britishinspired<br />

tradition of contemporary food executed<br />

with panache and attention to detail. Chef Michael<br />

Anglestad’s from-scratch kitchen continues to<br />

offer an exceptional dining experience. Owners<br />

<strong>July</strong>/<strong>August</strong> <strong>2018</strong> | 31<br />

Peter and Vanessa Willis recently celebrated the<br />

ninth anniversary of this downtown landmark<br />

that features one of London’s top patio dining<br />

experiences. 476 Richmond Street, thechurchkey.ca<br />

Betty Heydon’s Blackfriars Bistro & Catering is<br />

open on Mondays for lunch and dinner. This locallyacclaimed<br />

bistro with a funky vibe continues to wow<br />

all age groups and recently celebrated its 22nd<br />

birthday. Chefs Alicia Hartley and Jacqui Shantz<br />

prepare innovative, seasonal blackboard specials<br />

with cutting-edge menus that respect tradition.<br />

Closed Sundays. 46 Blackfriars St., 519-667-4930,<br />

blackfriarsbistro.com<br />

Reverie is a Canadian-focused five-course tasting<br />

menu restaurant with optional wine pairings,<br />

operated by Chef Brian Sua-an and Jerrah Revilles.<br />

Chef uses modern and molecular techniques and<br />

applies them to his cuisine to make each dish<br />

uniquely his own. Sua-an plans menu items months<br />

in advance and gravitates to pristine ingredients,<br />

going to great lengths to source the best. The<br />

glassed frontage provides plenty of natural light.<br />

Reservations are required. 1–208 Piccadilly Street,<br />

519-914-6595, reverierestaurant.ca<br />

Craft Farmacy is the ultimate farm-to-table<br />

restaurant. This is London’s first Feast ON-certified<br />

Your love of all things Italian begins at<br />

Destination for the food lover<br />

Featuring specialty foods,<br />

kitchenwares, tablewares,<br />

cooking classes and gift baskets.<br />

115 King St., London Ontario<br />

jillstable.ca 519-645-1335<br />

Gift Cards<br />

Available<br />

519-652-7659 • HWY 401 & 4 • pastosgrill.com


SUNDAY BRUNCH<br />

11am−2pm<br />

FLIGHTS & BITES<br />

HALF PRICE Sharing Plates & Oysters<br />

Tuesday–Friday from 3:30–5:30pm<br />

SUNDAY INDUSTRY NIGHTS<br />

20% OFF!<br />

Intimate<br />

Outdoor<br />

Courtyard<br />

Open 7 Days a Week<br />

Mon/Tues 11:30-10, Wed/Thurs 11:30-11, Fri/Sat 11:30-12, Sun 11-10<br />

NEW<br />

SUMMER<br />

MENU<br />

TUES–SAT Lunch & Dinner 11:30am to Close<br />

SUNDAY Brunch 11am & Dinner<br />

449 Wharncliffe Road South<br />

519.914.2699<br />

eatdrink.ca |@eatdrinkmag<br />

“Taste of Ontario” restaurant. The criteria-based<br />

certification program is designed to protect the<br />

authenticity of foodservice operators committed to<br />

the procurement of local food. With 112 seats, Craft<br />

Farmacy features sharing plates, fabulous house<br />

cocktails, craft beer, a superior wine list and plenty<br />

of pizzaz. There is a private event space with room<br />

for 40 on the second floor. Chef Andrew Wolwowicz<br />

recently launched new lunch, dinner and brunch<br />

menus. 11:30am to midnight, closed Mondays, 449<br />

Wharncliffe Road South, 519-914-2699<br />

Plant Matter Bistro, located across from Central<br />

Library, is a stylish fine dining version of the<br />

popular Wortley Village Plant Matter Kitchen.<br />

Owner Glen Whitehead says that the bistro takes<br />

its inspiration from New York, while Plant Matter<br />

Kitchen is inspired by San Francisco. True to clean<br />

eating and environmental sustainability, the chefs<br />

craft global dishes with local ingredients that<br />

are 100% vegan and organic. They work with a<br />

number of local independent farmers to secure<br />

a farm-to-table, close to fresh, and as close to a<br />

natural food experience as possible. Open for lunch<br />

and dinner. 244 Dundas Street, 519-432-3663,<br />

plantmatterbistro.com<br />

We know why the Wolfe brothers’ Wolfe of<br />

Wortley made the longlist for Canada’s Best<br />

New Restaurants 2017. There are grilled and<br />

cold smoked oysters on offer. Try the charcuterie<br />

underpinned by in-house techniques. Cocktail-wise,<br />

owners Jason and Gregg Wolfe like to riff on the<br />

classics, starting with something familiar, tried<br />

and tested and then taking it to another level, with<br />

a twist. There are interesting seasonal features,<br />

quality spirits, and flights of bourbon. 147 Wortley<br />

Rd., 519-854-6004, wolfeofwortley.com<br />

Los Lobos is celebrating its one-year anniversary<br />

in <strong>August</strong>. This “hot” take on Modern Mexican<br />

cuisine is a feast for all senses. Ten taco offerings<br />

are generously topped with various combinations<br />

of salsa, aioli, pickled vegetables and hot sauces.<br />

Be sure to try the flourless chocolate cake with<br />

lots of chili heat. The inspiring Los Lobos bar<br />

serves up mezcal, bourbon and margarita-focused<br />

signature cocktails. Expect innovation. There is a<br />

no-reservation policy but plenty of room outside on<br />

the well-appointed and spacious patio. 580 Talbot<br />

Street, 519-601-8226, fb.com/LosLobosLondon<br />

The patio restaurant at Boler Mountain opened<br />

for lunch and dinner table service on Canada Day<br />

weekend. Chef Kim Sutherland’s menu includes<br />

salads, burgers, sandwiches, hot meals and snacks,<br />

with vegan- and vegetarian-friendly options. Enjoy<br />

great views of forests and hills alongside the Treetop<br />

Adventure, mountain biking and beach volleyball


eatdrink: The Local Food & Drink Magazine<br />

activities. Open Sunday–Friday (and some Saturdays<br />

when not booked for weddings). bolermountain.com<br />

Hunter & Co.is a sultry cocktail bar/lounge with a<br />

speakeasy vibe featuring interesting small plates<br />

of chef-crafted fare, from bone marrow to the<br />

signature “tongue ‘n’ cheek”, to halloumi tikka<br />

masala. There are charcuterie and a good selection<br />

of fresh oysters. Dave Fauteux and his crew’s wellcrafted<br />

cocktails make this a place to go for upscale<br />

libations. Open 3:30pm until late, seven days a<br />

week, at 349 Talbot Street. hunterco.ca<br />

Villa Cornelia ranks among London’s finest<br />

examples of Queen Anne architecture. Meticulously<br />

restored to its old-world charm in 1988, it is a<br />

comfortable place to relax and enjoy the continental<br />

cuisine. Chef Ryan Hancock’s cuisine includes both<br />

game and fish features nightly. Try the chicken<br />

saltimbocca with prosciutto and stuffed with<br />

mozzarella and fresh sage. There is an exceptional<br />

elk burger and Caesar salad on the lunch menu. The<br />

cozy and smartly appointed patio with wrought iron<br />

tables and chairs seats 70. 142 Kent Street, 519-679-<br />

3444 villacorneliarestaurant.com<br />

Garlic’s of London, a perennial favourite for over<br />

20 years and located in the heart of Richmond<br />

Row, is a proponent of farm-to-table cuisine. The<br />

It’s Shower & Wedding Season!<br />

Featuring the<br />

Northern Lights<br />

Chip & Dip Platter<br />

from Hilborn Pottery<br />

MADE IN<br />

ONTARIO<br />

Knives • Baking • Cookware<br />

Dinnerware • Widgets • Canadiana<br />

MON–FRI 9:30–5:30 • SAT 9:30–3<br />

129 South Mitton St. Sarnia ON<br />

519-332-0880 kitchen-widgets.com<br />

A Harvest Dinner<br />

Five Courses with Drink Pairings<br />

$100 per guest<br />

6:00 pm, Saturday, October 20, <strong>2018</strong><br />

130 Dundas Street, London<br />

Join us in a celebration of local food<br />

and drink! The Artisanal Culinary Arts<br />

program at Fanshawe College is hosting<br />

a Harvest Dinner to celebrate<br />

International Chefs Day, in our<br />

new downtown campus<br />

(formerly Kingsmill's).<br />

Tickets are available at<br />

fanshawec.ca/harvest<br />

Fanshawe's one-of-a-kind Artisanal Culinary<br />

Arts graduate program celebrates both integrity<br />

and ingenuity. We enable students to tell their<br />

own authentic, culinary story with good, clean,<br />

fair food as the principle ingredient.


34 | <strong>July</strong>/<strong>August</strong> <strong>2018</strong><br />

culinary team offers traditionally prepared and<br />

internationally inspired cuisine made entirely<br />

from scratch with inspiration from local Ontario<br />

ingredients. Try the signature garlic bisque and<br />

Clear Creek organic duck two ways with almond<br />

crusted parsnip and duck confit croquette, chèvre<br />

cream, greens and rhubarb chutney 479 Richmond<br />

Street, 519-432-4092, garlicsoflondon.com<br />

Curley Brewing Company recently relocated to 1634<br />

Hyde Park Road. The business, co-owned by Nigel<br />

Curley and Kelsey Watkinson, features a vegan<br />

café serving light lunches, kombucha, coffee and<br />

Far Out ...<br />

but we like it that way!<br />

eatdrink.ca |@eatdrinkmag<br />

baked goods, and offers four small-batch beers on<br />

tap that are also available to take home in 500 ml<br />

bottles. Closed Mondays and Tuesdays, 1634 Hyde<br />

Park Road, 519-872-6667, curleybrewing.com<br />

Chef/owner Dominic Raso brought a taste of New<br />

Orleans-style to London with Bourbon Street Cajun<br />

and Creole Kitchen. The restaurant serves some<br />

Louisiana-inspired classics such as shrimp creole,<br />

po’ boy sandwiches, pecan pie and jambalaya.<br />

Bourbon Street features an open kitchen and<br />

front and rear patios. The restaurant is open<br />

for breakfast, lunch and dinner and features a<br />

jazz brunch. 587 Oxford St. East (near Adelaide).<br />

bourbonstr.ca<br />

On Sunday <strong>August</strong> 19, Ron Benner roasts corn for<br />

all at his garden installation As the Crow Flies. Part<br />

sculpture, part installation and part performance,<br />

the 12th Annual Corn Roast will feature Benner’s<br />

roving corn-roasting wagon Maiz Barbacoa, 1–4pm<br />

at Wolf Sculpture Garden at Museum London.<br />

Frank Ridsdale and indie duo Willow Switch will be<br />

doing acoustic sets. museumlondon.ca<br />

Gino Parco of Porcino, the Italian hotspot on Southdale,<br />

is launching Veta Wine and Pasta Bar mid-<strong>July</strong>.<br />

Located in the former Blu Duby North location at 745<br />

Fanshawe Park Road West, Gino is celebrating the<br />

opening by offering 20% off on food from <strong>July</strong> 18–<br />

<strong>August</strong> 2. Reservations are required. 519-601-7760<br />

Starting on Saturday, October 6, The Market at<br />

Western Fair will open on both Saturday (8am–3pm)<br />

and Sunday (11am–3pm) each week. This decision<br />

was made after extensive research. Courtney<br />

Bertens is now Assistant Market Manager. She will<br />

support Dan Ross, Market Manager, with the goal<br />

of growing attendance and improving the customer<br />

experience. Up to $400,000 will be invested in the<br />

Confederation Building location this year, including<br />

washroom upgrades and new cooler storage.<br />

Additional improvements will be made in 2019 and<br />

2020. westernfairdistrict/market<br />

Blair Rd<br />

London<br />

International<br />

Airport<br />

Crumlin Rd<br />

Oxford St<br />

Lunch Mon–Fri 11–3 • Dinner Wed–Sun from 5pm<br />

Weekend Breakfast 9–12, Lunch 12–3, Dinner 5–9<br />

½ Price<br />

Bottle of Wine Wednesdays<br />

$5<br />

16-oz Pints Thursdays<br />

519-455-9005<br />

katanakafe.ca<br />

2530 Blair Rd, London<br />

Diamond Flight Centre


eatdrink: The Local Food & Drink Magazine<br />

Stratford<br />

Stratford Tourism Alliance (STA) launches Frank’s<br />

Rocky Horror Show Guide to Stratford in conjunction<br />

with the Stratford Festival. Fun and unexpected<br />

experiences and products align with Dr. Frank N.<br />

Furter’s character in Richard O’Brien’s The Rocky<br />

Horror Show (now playing at the Avon Theatre).<br />

Frank’s Guide (not for the easily offended) invites you<br />

to explore Stratford through Dr. Frank N. Furter’s eyes<br />

as you get the look, get the drink and then you play.<br />

Naturally, he’ll lead you to the best “rocky cocktails”<br />

and where to find the sexiest bustiers, fishnets and<br />

tattoos, but Stratford’s entrepreneurs have created<br />

innovative products and experiences reflecting<br />

community synergy with the show in an unexpected<br />

style. Use the guide as preparation for seeing The<br />

Rocky Horror Show, or just for fun to explore another<br />

side of Stratford. visitstratford.ca/ franksstratford<br />

The annual Stratford Chefs School Long Table<br />

Dinner, affectionately called the friend-raising<br />

event, is the signature fundraising culinary event of<br />

the year. Sunday, September 9. stratfordchef.com<br />

Together, a father and daughter team opened<br />

JENN & Larry’s Brittle ‘n Shakes & Ice Cream.<br />

Offering retro-inspired ice cream and brittle, it is<br />

located on York Street along the Avon River. Look<br />

Loose Leaf Teas,Tisanes & Gifts<br />

•<br />

Contemporary & Traditional Teaware<br />

•<br />

Local, Healthy Menu (V/GF free available)<br />

•<br />

Delicious Scones (V/GF free available)<br />

Summer<br />

Afternoon Tea<br />

<strong>July</strong> 22<br />

Reservations<br />

required<br />

Live Music<br />

Saturdays<br />

11:30am–1:30pm<br />

268 Piccadilly Street (beside Oxford Book Store)<br />

519-601-TEAS (8327) • tealoungelondon.com<br />

Summer: WED-THURS 11am-6pm • FRI & SAT 11am-9pm • SUN noon-5pm<br />

“Let food be thy medicine and<br />

medicine be thy food”<br />

Experience the freshest olive oils from across the globe, paired with<br />

savoury white & dark balsamic vinegars from Modena, Italy.<br />

Bottling fresh in store since 2012.<br />

- Hippocrates<br />

The<br />

Pristine<br />

live<br />

Est. 2012<br />

884 Adelaide Street N. | London | 519-433-4444<br />

www.thepristineolive.ca


Hey Cupcake!<br />

www.heycupcake.ca<br />

275 Wharncliffe Rd. North<br />

519-433-CAKE (2253)<br />

STORE HOURS: Mon–Fri 11–7<br />

Saturday 10–5 • Sunday 11–4<br />

where art is<br />

a piece of cake<br />

The ORIGINAL<br />

LONDON CAKERY &<br />

GOURMET CUPCAKE<br />

BAKERY<br />

ASK US Custom Bakery • Walk-In Orders Available<br />

ABOUT OUR<br />

“RANDOM<br />

ACTS OF<br />

SWEETNESS!”<br />

CAMPAIGN<br />

WHOLESALE<br />

HAND ROASTED<br />

COFFEE BEANS<br />

FROM MY BUSINESS<br />

TO YOUR BUSINESS<br />

Quality,<br />

Consistency,<br />

and Value<br />

... in the roasting,<br />

in the delivery,<br />

and in the price.<br />

TM<br />

eatdrink.ca |@eatdrinkmag<br />

for the lineups outside the shop and for the happy<br />

customers spilling out of the door.<br />

If you love craft brews stop by Mercer Beer Hall,<br />

which offers over 130 craft beers from around<br />

the world — for a truly world-wide craft brew<br />

experience. Boar’s Head Pub at the Queen’s Inn<br />

and Bentley’s Restaurant and Bar also offer a wide<br />

selection of craft brews to quench any thirst.<br />

Over the past three decades Keystone Alley, named<br />

after the former Keystone Bakery, has evolved from a<br />

small coffee shop into a popular and casual fine dining<br />

restaurant. Chef Tina Logassi’s menus are driven<br />

by local sourcing, with daily blackboard features.<br />

Over the years many improvements have been made,<br />

including the addition of the comfortable “Alley” patio<br />

and “Key’d Inn”, a spacious two-bedroom-suite rental<br />

situated above the restaurant. 34 Brunswick Street,<br />

519-271-5645, keystonealley.com<br />

The Red Rabbit and Okazu 85 Downie feature<br />

talented young women in leadership roles. They<br />

are excited to announce the promotion of Courtney<br />

Noble to the position of sous chef at The Red<br />

Rabbit and the addition of Angela Murphy as chef<br />

de cuisine at Okazu 85. Both of these incredibly<br />

talented women are graduates of the Stratford<br />

Chefs School and are London, Ontario natives.<br />

Madelyn’s Diner is “A Purely Local Diner with ‘lots’<br />

of local colour and the home of the award-winning<br />

bacon butter tart”. The seating capacity from<br />

October to May is 90 but swells to 120 during the<br />

warmer months when the patio is open. It offers an<br />

all-day breakfast. Visitors love the locally-sourced<br />

peameal bacon and eggs, a “Canadian” treat, along<br />

with many other comfort food-inspired breakfast,<br />

lunch and dinner offerings. Open 7 days a week,<br />

closing times vary. 377 Huron Street, Stratford, 519-<br />

273-5296, madelynsdiner.ca<br />

Bar Burrito is Mexican-inspired food you can count<br />

on. All the ingredients are fully traceable from the<br />

producer to your plate. Enjoy burritos, quesadillas,<br />

tacos and more. 1060 Ontario St, 519-305-7555,<br />

barburrito.ca/location/stratford/<br />

Plan to attend the 12th Annual Stratford Kiwanis<br />

Garlic Festival on September 8 and 9 at the<br />

Community Hall in The Stratford Rotary Complex.<br />

Raising funds for local community projects and<br />

supporting local garlic growers, The Kiwanis Club<br />

of Stratford once again will deliver a fun family<br />

weekend, complete with Ontario Garlic & Artisan<br />

Market, cooking demonstrations by professional<br />

chefs, educational forums, live entertainment,<br />

artisanal cheeses and exclusive wine/spirits/beer<br />

pairings and tastings. stratfordgarlicfestival.com<br />

In honour of the 35th anniversary of Stratford


eatdrink: The Local Food & Drink Magazine<br />

Chefs School, work is currently underway on Farm<br />

to Table, a cookbook that pairs 25 SCS alumni chefs<br />

with their favourite food producers and farmers<br />

for a culinary adventure through Perth and Huron<br />

Counties. This stunning book will feature recipes as<br />

well as interviews conducted by CBC food columnist<br />

and <strong>Eatdrink</strong> contributor Andrew Coppolino and<br />

striking imagery provided by photographer and SCS<br />

alumna Terry Manzo. The book will be launched at<br />

the School’s Season Opener in late October.<br />

Experience Stratford Chefs School first-hand with<br />

a guided personal tour this summer! Learn what it’s<br />

like to train as a culinary student while immersed<br />

in Stratford’s vibrant food culture. A personal visit<br />

can be as simple as a Q&A with Admissions, or as<br />

involved as becoming a student in the School world<br />

class kitchens for a day. stratfordchef.com<br />

Stratford Summer Music will turn Revival<br />

House from dining hall into a nightclub rivaling<br />

anything New York has to offer. Four exceptional<br />

evenings bring back celebrated Summer Music<br />

Cabarets originally presented in the space, then<br />

The Church Restaurant. Friday, <strong>July</strong> 20: masterful<br />

entertainer and artist Bruce Dow. Friday, <strong>July</strong> 27:<br />

Toronto’s John MacLeod and his Rex Hotel Orchestra<br />

will feature vocalist Carol McCartney. Friday,<br />

<strong>August</strong> 10: Rough Trade flashbacks and High School<br />

Confidentials with Carole Pope. Friday, <strong>August</strong> 17:<br />

Heather Bambrick’s Jazz Ceilidh with special guests<br />

Cadence Vocal Group, creating a genuinely jazzy<br />

Newfoundland party. Dinner & Show packages<br />

(one show and a 3-course dinner!) are available.<br />

stratfordsummermusic.ca<br />

Revival House will host their third bi-annual Craft<br />

Beer Festival on Sunday, <strong>August</strong> 12 from from<br />

1–5pm. “The Summer Sessions” will include an<br />

afternoon of food and beer sampling and a meet &<br />

greet with the brewmasters & beer reps from such<br />

local favourites as Black Swan (Stratford), Cowbell<br />

(Blyth) and Railway City (St Thomas). A $40<br />

advance ticket includes 6 beer sample tickets, beerpaired<br />

appetizers and entertainment! Additional<br />

sample tickets can be purchased. 19+. revival.house<br />

Around the Region<br />

Savour an Elgin taste experience at one of the<br />

county’s friendly diners, restaurants or tea rooms.<br />

Featuring local products, restaurants offer the<br />

best in Elgin ingredients from homemade baking to<br />

classic chicken pot pie to fresh perch and pickerel<br />

in season. There is sure to be something to please<br />

everyone. savourelgin.ca<br />

A trip to Port wouldn’t be the same without a stop<br />

at Shaw’s Ice Cream. It’s been serving up “delicious<br />

old fashioned ice cream made the way it should<br />

Outdoor Farmers’ Market<br />

Every Thursday 8am–2pm<br />

& Saturday 8am–1pm<br />

We grow it, raise it, make it<br />

& bake it — local produce,<br />

meat, cheese and more!<br />

Enjoy outstanding Live Music both days<br />

brought to you by our exciting new partner,<br />

London Arts Council.<br />

FREE Cooking Classes are held<br />

from 11am–noon, upstairs in the<br />

Market Kitchen. Classes will run<br />

every Saturday until<br />

September 22.<br />

Colombian Day Festival<br />

Sunday, <strong>July</strong> 22,<br />

10am–10pm<br />

This FREE EVENT<br />

celebrates Colombia’s<br />

Independence Day<br />

with folklore, live<br />

music, dance, food<br />

and more!<br />

FREE PARKING<br />

With Validation<br />

Half Hour Weekdays<br />

Market Hours<br />

Monday to Saturday<br />

Mezzanine & Restaurant Hours Differ


eatdrink.ca |@eatdrinkmag<br />

Thursday to Sunday,<br />

11:30am–8pm last call<br />

Five Fortune Culture<br />

RESTAURANT<br />

366 Richmond Street at King<br />

www.fivefortuneculture.com<br />

226 667 9873<br />

“Pure<br />

Chinese”<br />

Cuisine<br />

—<strong>Eatdrink</strong><br />

Menu Changes<br />

Friday–Sunday<br />

Closed<br />

for Holidays<br />

June 11 to<br />

<strong>July</strong> 17<br />

be” since 1933. Shaw’s offers a wide selection of<br />

hard ice cream, fruit sorbets, frozen yogurt, thick<br />

milkshakes, decadent sundaes and celebratory ice<br />

cream cakes. 6598 Sunset Drive, St. Thomas, 519-<br />

631-2510, shawsicecream.com<br />

The New Sarum Diner, owned and operated by the<br />

White family for over 40 years, offers delectable<br />

country-style home cooking. Originally established in<br />

1943, it is Elgin County’s oldest diner. Try the meatloaf<br />

or the famous family-style chicken. 46230 New Sarum<br />

Line, Sparta, 519-773-3103, newsarum.com<br />

The Windjammer Inn is located just off the main<br />

beach in Port Stanley. Chef/owner Kim Saunders<br />

sources ingredients from the large farming<br />

network in Elgin County. Scratch breads, artisanal<br />

cheeses, local meats and Saunders’ baking round<br />

out the seasonal menus. Try Lake Erie fresh linecaught<br />

perch and pickerel when in season, or the<br />

Buttermilk Brined Roasted Breast of Duck with<br />

hunter-style potato, yam hash, smoked onion and<br />

plum conserve. The restaurant, into its twelfth<br />

season, has seating on the charming wraparound<br />

porch. 324 Smith Street, Port Stanley, 519-782-4173,<br />

thewindjammerinn.com<br />

Nestled in the heart of Port Stanley, the Kettle Creek<br />

Inn was opened by Jean and Gary Vedova in 1983.<br />

The Vedovas, along with sons Troy and Dean, are<br />

hands-on operators. Chef Rob Lampman keeps the<br />

Inn’s kitchen fresh and relevant. Menus showcase<br />

a commitment to the area with farmed, fished or<br />

foraged local ingredients such as seasonal perch and<br />

pickerel. Dining options include a parlour with a cozy<br />

fireplace, an intimate English-inspired pub, two dining<br />

rooms, a gazebo and a stunning garden terrace. Jean<br />

tells us, “Guests can prop up their feet on their porch<br />

or balcony, sip a libation and amble down for dinner<br />

under the gazebo.” The Inn has 10 guest rooms and five<br />

luxury suites. 216 Joseph Street, Port Stanley, 519-782-<br />

3388, kettlecreekinn.com<br />

Solo on Main is a family-run business with Chef<br />

Lauren Van Dixhoorn at the helm. It has a fantastic<br />

patio and inviting front porch offering al fresco seating<br />

and great Port views. Inside, there is a charming<br />

quartz-topped walnut bar; the casual dining room<br />

with original hardwood floors is decorated in warm<br />

gray tones. The cooking is refined, modern and<br />

thoughtful. There is Lake Erie catch, ocean catch, baby<br />

back ribs with Lo’s Mom’s BBQ sauce. Try the signature<br />

Lo’s Smoked Trout Frites. 187 Main Street, Port Stanley,<br />

226-658-0999, soloportstanley.com<br />

Steed and Co Lavender, at 47589 Sparta Line (3<br />

km east of east of the historic village of Sparta),<br />

will host their annual Lavender Fairy Festival on<br />

Saturday, <strong>August</strong> 11, from noon to 4pm. Indulge in


eatdrink: The Local Food & Drink Magazine<br />

an afternoon filled with fairy fun and lore based<br />

upon the Lavender Fairy’s important job. Guest<br />

entertainment. Don’t forget your wings! Pirates<br />

are also always welcome. Children $5, parents and<br />

grandparents are free. steedandcompany.com<br />

Nothing expresses the bounty and beauty of<br />

summertime more than Hessenland Inn & Vineyard’s<br />

popular Mongolian Grill garden-side dining. Back for<br />

an 11th season, every Thursday evening through <strong>July</strong><br />

and <strong>August</strong> offers a delicious opportunty for guests<br />

to design their own signature dish from incredible<br />

fresh ingredients. Curate your plate and let Chef<br />

Frank Ihrig and his crew grill and season your dish to<br />

perfection at the outdoor grilling station. “Wein and<br />

Dine” Wednesdays (<strong>July</strong> 18th & <strong>August</strong> 15th) feature<br />

long table dinners, with live music and special menus<br />

paired with the finest of local wines, in the vineyard.<br />

Reservations are required. hessenland.com<br />

The butter tart has become a classic Canadian<br />

staple on menus across the country. From classic to<br />

pecan, caramel, and even cola-flavoured, the butter<br />

tart stands the test of time. McCully’s Hill Farm and<br />

Leaping Deer Adventure Farm both make classic<br />

and maple-infused butter tarts. Call ahead; these<br />

tarts are a hot ticket.<br />

Dining at Elm Hurst Inn & Spa is always an<br />

occasion, whether you are celebrating with family<br />

and friends, catching up over Sunday Brunch,<br />

or looking for a relaxing spot to enjoy a glass of<br />

wine and some top-notch cuisine. Savour locallyinspired<br />

menus prepared by executive chef Michael<br />

Davies and served in one of nine private dining<br />

rooms or on the patio. 415 Harris St., Ingersoll, 519-<br />

485-5321, elmhurstinn.com<br />

Upper Thames Brewing Company is expanding,<br />

with a second venue at the former Sally Creek<br />

Bistro at the Sally Creek Golf Club (190 Fairway<br />

Road). The space will be renovated over the next<br />

few months for a late summer or early autumn<br />

opening. The new location will include a brewhouse,<br />

full service restaurant, and patio. The bar will<br />

feature 24 taps, with 12 pouring Upper Thames<br />

beers and 12 guest taps featuring other craft<br />

breweries. 225 Bysham Park Dr #9, Woodstock,<br />

519-290-0053, upperthamesbrewing.ca<br />

Woodstock Summer Streetfest is the place to<br />

be <strong>August</strong> 10 to 11 when Dundas Street becomes<br />

pedestrian-friendly for this annual shindig<br />

featuring over 175 vendors. Enjoy live music and<br />

great food at restaurant patios that take over the<br />

street. downtownwoodstock.ca<br />

The Village Teapot in Ilderton is owned and operated<br />

by Gaynor Deeks and Jana Yassine. Gaynor is<br />

originally from the UK, Jana from Chatham. They<br />

growers & creators of fine lavender products<br />

DISCOVER<br />

Steed & Company Lavender, part of a<br />

45-acre horse farm just outside of Sparta<br />

INDULGE<br />

in our unique handcrafted lavender products<br />

ESCAPE<br />

in the wonderful scent and<br />

calming powers of lavender<br />

519-494-5525<br />

47589 Sparta Line, Sparta<br />

buds@steedandcompany.com<br />

Open Wed–Sat 10-5; Sun 12–4<br />

Mother’s Day to Dec. 19<br />

PLUS June–Labour Day: Tues 10-5<br />

www.steedandcompany.com<br />

LUNCH Wed to Fri 11:30–2:30<br />

DINNER from 5pm daily<br />

432 Richmond Street<br />

at Carling • London<br />

ALWAYS<br />

a 3-course prix fixe<br />

menu option<br />

Enjoy<br />

Our Annual<br />

Lavender Fairy<br />

Festival<br />

Saturday, Aug. 11<br />

Noon–4pm<br />

Bring<br />

Your Wings!<br />

www.davidsbistro.ca<br />

Closed <strong>July</strong> 1– <strong>July</strong> 15 for Holidays. Opening <strong>July</strong> 16th.


40 | <strong>July</strong>/<strong>August</strong> <strong>2018</strong><br />

are both tea drinkers, sandwich makers and know<br />

a good scone when they see one. One of the oldest<br />

properties in the town, the premises retain many<br />

period features. 13257 Ilderton Road, Ilderton, 519-<br />

298-8327, thevillageteapot.ca<br />

Lavender Hives is a small lavender farm and apiary<br />

just south of Pinery Park and Grand Bend. Fresh<br />

and dried lavender and raw honey are available in<br />

season, and the lavender will be blooming right<br />

through <strong>July</strong>. Owner-operators Cathy and Garry<br />

Parsons have been developing the property since<br />

2015 and added asparagus this year. Visitors can<br />

enjoy a walking meditation through an on-site<br />

living lavender labyrinth, and the wooded setting is<br />

an ideal background for wedding, family, or nature<br />

photography. Goosemarsh Line, Grand Bend, 226-<br />

926-2820, facebook.com/ourlavenderhives<br />

Stonetown Artisan Cheese is a purveyor of Swiss<br />

mountain-style cheeses, hand-crafted by master<br />

cheesemaker Ramon Eberle. Using unpasteurized<br />

milk from farmers Hans and Jolanda Weber’s<br />

herd of Holsteins, Eberle uses raw milk so that the<br />

cheese ripens as naturally as possible while the<br />

flavours improve with maturation. Cheeses and<br />

other local products are available to buy on-site<br />

at the farm store. Guided group tours are $5 per<br />

eatdrink.ca |@eatdrinkmag<br />

person (minimum 15 people). See the complete<br />

process of cheesemaking with the cheesemaker.<br />

The tour lasts about 60–90 minutes. 5021 Perth<br />

County Line 8 (Kirkton Road), St. Marys, 519-229-<br />

6856, stonetowncheese.com<br />

St. Marys Farmers Market — Downtown St. Marys<br />

gets fresh as local food producers and unique artisan<br />

vendors convert the Jones Street Parking Lot into<br />

the place for homegrown goodness and homemade<br />

specialties. Open Saturdays until the end of October,<br />

8am–12 noon. stmarysfarmersmarket.ca<br />

Wine Country Ontario — Wineries across the<br />

region host events throughout the summer<br />

— tours, tastings, musical and culinary. Visit<br />

winecountryontario.ca/events for a full listing.<br />

We want your BUZZ!<br />

Do you have culinary news or upcoming events<br />

that you’d like us to share?<br />

Every issue, <strong>Eatdrink</strong> reaches more than<br />

50,000 readers across Southwestern Ontario<br />

in print, and thousands more online.<br />

Get in touch with us at editor@eatdrink.ca and/or<br />

connect directly with our Social Media Editor<br />

Bryan Lavery at bryan@eatdrink.ca<br />

Submission deadline for the next issue is <strong>August</strong> 5.<br />

Come celebrate the<br />

Grand Opening<br />

of<br />

Receive 20% OFF all food<br />

from <strong>July</strong> 18th to <strong>August</strong> 2nd, <strong>2018</strong>.<br />

Please make reservations.<br />

Veta Wine and Pasta Bar<br />

745 Fanshawe Park Road (formerly Blu Duby)<br />

519-601-7760


eatdrink: The Local Food & Drink Magazine<br />

<strong>July</strong>/<strong>August</strong> <strong>2018</strong> | 41<br />

Beer<br />

Twelve Temptations<br />

Local Craft Beers for Summer<br />

by GEORGE MACKE<br />

One deck, one dock, one cottage,<br />

plenty of beer. Does anything say<br />

summer like a selection of fresh<br />

local craft beers?<br />

While many equate craft beer with bitter<br />

IPAs or thick and heavy stouts, it’s not<br />

necessarily so. Increasingly, Southwestern<br />

Ontario’s impressive craft breweries are<br />

producing small batch easy-to-drink lagers,<br />

malty golden ales, and wheat beer seasonals<br />

with unexpected flavours guaranteed to<br />

quench thirsts on hot summer days. Here<br />

are some great choices — all widely available<br />

at the brewery itself and at the LCBO, select<br />

grocery stores, or The Beer Store — to fill your<br />

cooler and impress guests.<br />

Orange Creamsic Ale — Railway<br />

City Brewery, St. Thomas. Available until<br />

<strong>August</strong>, Orange Creamsic<br />

takes inspiration for its name<br />

and its taste from the classic<br />

orange and vanilla ice cream<br />

bar. Creamy with a vanilla<br />

flavour, it’s light enough in<br />

alcohol (4.8 per cent) to be<br />

sessionable. It also makes a<br />

great dessert beer.<br />

Flashback Rhubarb Wheat Beer —<br />

Forked River Brewing, London. Brewed<br />

every spring for the past four<br />

years, Flashback has been<br />

known as Mojo until now.<br />

Forked River has swapped<br />

names for the beer, and the<br />

lava lamp label artwork has<br />

given way to an hourglass,<br />

but you’ll spot the 473 mL<br />

cans quickly thanks to their


42 | <strong>July</strong>/<strong>August</strong> <strong>2018</strong><br />

familiar and distinctive yellow<br />

colour. The rhubarb content gives<br />

a punch of tartness, but not so<br />

much as to ruin the wheat beer<br />

quaffability. Try pairing it with a<br />

bowl of summer fruit.<br />

El Buscador Cerveza —<br />

Descendants Brewery, Kitchener.<br />

What says heat relief better than a<br />

Mexican-style lager? As a deviation<br />

from the macro-brewed Corona, El<br />

eatdrink.ca |@eatdrinkmag<br />

Buscador Cerveza is a suitable choice.<br />

It’s only 4 per cent alcohol, making<br />

it sessionable even if the Day of<br />

the Dead-inspired artwork hints at<br />

something more potent.<br />

1857 Kolsch — Abe Erb<br />

Brewery, Waterloo. This style of<br />

beer originated in<br />

Cologne, German,<br />

and is between a<br />

lager and ale. It’s<br />

alternatively known<br />

as a cream ale, particularly in<br />

the U.S. Abe Erb’s kolsch hits<br />

the mark as a versatile and<br />

solid choice to pair with thick<br />

hamburgers or ribs. Many will<br />

prefer it as a beverage with a<br />

meal rather than a sessionable<br />

beer round the campfire. It’s<br />

4.8 per cent alcohol.<br />

Cream Ale — Anderson Craft Ales,<br />

London. If there’s a craft beer for cottage<br />

guests who think they<br />

don’t like craft beer,<br />

this is it. One of three<br />

breweries in London’s<br />

intriguing Old East<br />

Village, Anderson brews<br />

a number of delightful<br />

year-round beers, oneoffs,<br />

and seasonals. But<br />

it’s Anderson Cream Ale,<br />

sold in six-packs of 355<br />

mL cans, which serves as<br />

the gateway. Medium in<br />

body, malty in taste, it’s<br />

a stellar cream ale which has quickly found a<br />

loyal fan base.<br />

CRAFT BEER<br />

MADE IN CHATHAM<br />

27 Adelaide st. south . Chatham Ont<br />

TAP ROOM . BEER SHOP . EVENTS . SNACKS<br />

sonsofkent.com 519-354-BEER (2337)<br />

now available at the LCBO!


eatdrink: The Local Food & Drink Magazine<br />

Backpaddle Blonde — Upper Thames<br />

Brewing, Woodstock. What’s summer<br />

without a blonde in the crowd?<br />

Upper Thames’ Backpaddle<br />

Blonde is the two-year-old<br />

brewery’s best selling beer,<br />

and for good reason. It has<br />

broad appeal among all<br />

beer drinkers. It’s malty<br />

with a hint of citrus flavour<br />

derived from Cascade hops<br />

grown by the Tavistock Hop<br />

Company. Blondes — or<br />

golden ales — are close in<br />

flavour to the popular macro<br />

brews. Freshness is the key<br />

to enjoying a craft blonde.<br />

Backpaddle is in a limited number of local<br />

Beer Stores.<br />

Helles Lager — Wellington Brewery,<br />

Guelph. Available at the Beer Store in 355<br />

mL cans, Helles is Wellington’s take on a<br />

traditional German light lager. It’s a brave<br />

attempt to sway fans of big multinational<br />

<strong>July</strong>/<strong>August</strong> <strong>2018</strong> | 43<br />

brands. For the patriots,<br />

it uses all-Canadian<br />

barley and wheat malt.<br />

As a 4.5 per cent lager,<br />

it works in pretty much<br />

all situations, from<br />

campfire gatherings to<br />

grilled food.<br />

Suburban Menace<br />

— Refined Fool<br />

Brewing, Sarnia. This<br />

intriguing beer moves people along the craft<br />

beer tasting chart.<br />

It’s a little stronger in<br />

alcohol (5.7 per cent)<br />

and a little more bitter<br />

without treading into<br />

IPA territory. Red<br />

in colour, Suburban<br />

Menace comes in<br />

shareable 650 mL<br />

bottles, ideal for<br />

pouring summer tasters for the unconverted.<br />

Its complex tastes — can you pick up the<br />

BLACK SWAN<br />

BREWING COMPANY<br />

STRATFORD • ONTARIO<br />

It's what we drink.<br />

144 DOWNIE ST, STRATFORD<br />

BLACKSWANBREWING.CA 519 • 814 • 7926 @BLACKSWANBREWINGCO


eatdrink.ca |@eatdrinkmag<br />

caramel, blueberry, and bubblegum? — make<br />

it a great conversation starter.<br />

Road Trip!<br />

Come to the Cowbell Farm in Blyth, Ontario<br />

“THE NO.1 CRAFT BREWERY IN CANADA TO VISIT.”<br />

—WAYNE NEWTON, FOOD & DRINK JOURNALIST<br />

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Wild Child — Black Swan Brewing<br />

Company. Wild Child is a sour ale, in the<br />

Berliner Weisse style. Light and<br />

very bubbly, it’s tart without<br />

being puckering and could<br />

serve as a great gateway<br />

beer for wine drinkers or<br />

those turned off by the<br />

traditional bitterness<br />

in many beer styles.<br />

Variations are available at<br />

times, with additions such<br />

as seasonal fruit. Wild<br />

Chid is an excellent thirst<br />

quencher as a stand alone<br />

on a hot summer day or<br />

would pair wonderfully<br />

with a pan-fried fish or<br />

salad. Available in 1-litre and<br />

2-litre growlers at the brewery.<br />

And finally, three variations on a theme in one<br />

convenient six-pack.<br />

Summer Radler Pack — Waterloo<br />

Brewing, Kitchener. Waterloo Brewing<br />

packages its three summer seasonal radlers<br />

in a six-pack box. A radler is a mix of lager<br />

and fruit juice, with the result being more<br />

refreshing flavour and less alcohol. Waterloo’s<br />

pack<br />

includes<br />

grapefruit,<br />

citrus,<br />

and<br />

raspberry<br />

versions,<br />

each at 3.1<br />

per cent<br />

alcohol.<br />

Waterloo’s<br />

radlers pair with<br />

light summer fare off the grill — grapefruit<br />

with shrimp, raspberry with whitefish and<br />

tossed salad, citrus with steak. Waterloo<br />

Citrus Radler has appeal as a reward after an<br />

afternoon of summer yard work.<br />

GEORGE MACKE is a Southwestern Ontario craft beer<br />

explorer who spends too much time at the LCBO.


eatdrink: The Local Food & Drink Magazine<br />

<strong>July</strong>/<strong>August</strong> <strong>2018</strong> | 45<br />

Sandwich Brewing Co. | Windsor<br />

History pours out of this place,<br />

on the Barrels Bottles & Brews Trail.<br />

Uncover behind-the-scenes development and production<br />

of dozens of area distilleries and breweries. Tap rooms and<br />

tasting lounges welcome you with open bottles.<br />

Get your BBB Passport and info at: barrelsbottlesbrews.ca<br />

#BARRELTRAIL | #BREWERYQG | visitwindsoressex.com


46 | <strong>July</strong>/<strong>August</strong> <strong>2018</strong><br />

eatdrink.ca |@eatdrinkmag<br />

Wine<br />

Finding “Somewhereness”<br />

Terroir In a Glass of Wine<br />

by GARY KILLOPS<br />

If you have been to a wine tasting, the<br />

discussion at some point has probably<br />

lead to terroir. This is a French term<br />

that basically means “a sense of place.”<br />

When used in relation to wine, terroir is a<br />

combination of factors, such as the soil and<br />

the climate of the area where the grapes are<br />

grown, which impart unique characteristics<br />

that can be tasted in the wine.<br />

Ontario is a cool climate wine region. The<br />

wines made here are often more aromatic,<br />

lighter in body, and<br />

higher in acidity<br />

than their warm<br />

climate equivalents.<br />

The soil in each<br />

of Ontario’s three<br />

major wine growing<br />

regions is complex.<br />

Glacial clay, silt,<br />

and limestone<br />

contribute to the<br />

terroir of Ontario<br />

wines. Sometimes<br />

just small variances<br />

in the wine’s acidity,<br />

alcohol level or<br />

minerality have a<br />

big influence on the<br />

taste and quality.<br />

Recently a group<br />

of 12 Ontario winemakers<br />

gathered<br />

at Stratford Chefs<br />

School for an event<br />

called Somewhereness.<br />

In the group’s<br />

promotional material<br />

“somewhereness” is<br />

explained as a term<br />

used “to describe the blend of terroir, climate,<br />

vine and vintner that let a wine stand apart.<br />

… It speaks of small plots, sustainable practices,<br />

responsible stewardship and the way our<br />

The Somewhereness brand ambassadors included: (clockwise<br />

from top left) Shiraz Mottiar from Malivoire; Ilya Rubin from<br />

13th Street Winery; Harald Thiel from Hidden Bench Estate<br />

Winery; and Suzanne Janke from Stratus Vineyards.<br />

approach to winemaking contributes to the<br />

elusive characteristics that flow through to<br />

your soul with every sip of our wine.”<br />

The tasting at the Chefs School offered<br />

one-on-one conversations with the<br />

Somewhereness producers.<br />

Shiraz Mottiar, winemaker at Malivoire<br />

Wine in Niagara, was pouring several wines. He<br />

offered specifics on the Malivoire 2015 Small<br />

Lot Pinot Noir ($29.95 retail from the winery).<br />

The grapes were sourced from two vineyards<br />

in the Beamsville<br />

Bench. The Moira<br />

vineyard has vines<br />

that are over twenty<br />

years old, and<br />

they contribute<br />

to the fresh fruit<br />

acidity. The Mottiar<br />

vineyard, Shiraz’s<br />

own vineyard, is at<br />

a higher elevation<br />

and imparts<br />

both acidity and<br />

minerality. The<br />

Malivoire Small Lot<br />

Pinot Noir offers<br />

fresh, vibrant red<br />

berry fruits, clove<br />

and earthy spices,<br />

and mushroom and<br />

mineral nuances.<br />

Lively, fresh with a<br />

smooth finish. Wellpriced<br />

for a quality<br />

wine like this.<br />

Malivoire’s<br />

2016 Small Lot<br />

Chardonnay ($19.95<br />

retail from the<br />

winery) was made from Moira vineyard grapes.<br />

The wine was allowed to go through partial<br />

malolactic fermentation and then aged 50%<br />

in stainless steel, with the remainder aged in


eatdrink: The Local Food & Drink Magazine<br />

<strong>July</strong>/<strong>August</strong> <strong>2018</strong> | 47


18<br />

YEARS<br />

celebrating<br />

Winemaking<br />

at Its Finest<br />

Premium quality handcrafted wine<br />

at an affordable price<br />

150 Exeter Road, London 519-652-3998<br />

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eatdrink.ca |@eatdrinkmag<br />

French barrels, for nine months. The buttery<br />

notes and the hint of vanilla oak balance the<br />

green apple and the lemon citrus notes.<br />

Harald Thiel, owner of Hidden Bench Estate<br />

Winery, was pouring six terroir-driven wines<br />

at the event. “Our wines are unfiltered, which<br />

I believe adds to their ageability” he said. “We<br />

are trying to make wines that are not only<br />

good Ontario wines but also are wines that<br />

can take their place on the world stage.” The<br />

2015 Estate Chardonnay ($29.95 retail from<br />

the winery) showcases the Beamsville Bench<br />

terroir. The grapes in this wine are sourced<br />

from the Locust Lane, Felseck and Rosomel<br />

vineyards. Locust Lane and Felseck have a<br />

west/east slope as well as a south/north slope,<br />

providing excellent air, drainage and solar<br />

exposure. A strikingly complex chardonnay<br />

with lemon citrus, pear, melon and white<br />

flowers, driven by a mineral backbone one<br />

might expect from old world burgundies.<br />

“Somewhereness” is also about sustainable<br />

practices and responsible stewardship of<br />

the land that is dedicated to growing grapes.<br />

These winemakers also identify as caretakers<br />

of the earth where their vines grow. Nowhere


eatdrink: The Local Food & Drink Magazine<br />

<strong>July</strong>/<strong>August</strong> <strong>2018</strong> | 49<br />

The wineries each presented a line-up of products: (from<br />

the left) Malivoire, Hidden Bench and Cave Spring.<br />

is this more evident than at Stratus Vineyards.<br />

Located in Niagara-on-the-Lake, the winery<br />

was the first to earn LEED Canada Certification<br />

by producing wines in an environmentally-responsible<br />

manner.<br />

“The wine we grow is dependent on the<br />

health of the land on which it is grown,”<br />

reads the Stratus Environmental Mission<br />

Statement. “We farm our vineyard and guide<br />

our winemaking as though our children’s<br />

future depends on it.”<br />

At the event, Stratus poured the 2014 Stratus<br />

Red ($48 available at the winery only), a fine<br />

example of terroir, as it presents a different<br />

taste profile than the 2013 vintage currently<br />

available at the LCBO ($38.75, vintages<br />

#131037). A ripe, full bodied blend of cabernet<br />

franc, cabernet sauvignon, merlot and syrah.<br />

Juicy red berry fruits, grippy tannins and<br />

complex secondary oak flavours having spent<br />

584 days in 34% new French oak barrels.<br />

Terroir reflects a vineyard’s location and<br />

captures a sense of place, soil, climate, and<br />

seasons. It impacts vintage variations and the<br />

winemaker’s production decisions. Events like<br />

Somewhereness showcase the unique terroir of<br />

Ontario vineyards, and confirm that our wines<br />

have evolved to be comparable with other<br />

well-known world-class wines.<br />

GARY KILLOPS is a CAPS Certified Sommelier who<br />

loves to talk, taste, and write about wine. He shares his<br />

tasting notes on EssexWineReview.com<br />

Vines<br />

Wines<br />

LOCAL<br />

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Check our website for<br />

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You can also<br />

find our wines at:<br />

Sarnia Farmers’ Market<br />

Point Edward Moonlight<br />

Farmers’ Market<br />

Bayfield Farmers’ Market<br />

Covent Garden Market, London<br />

5547 Aberarder Line<br />

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& The Winery<br />

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A Family-Run Craft Winery<br />

Award-Winning VQA Wines<br />

Friendly Tasting Boutique<br />

Picnic Tables<br />

Artisanal Ontario Cheeses<br />

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@crewinery • 108 Essex County Road 50 • Harrow ON • 519-738-9800


50 | <strong>July</strong>/<strong>August</strong> <strong>2018</strong><br />

eatdrink.ca |@eatdrinkmag<br />

Music<br />

Hot Fun in the Summertime<br />

Upcoming Highlights on the Music Scene<br />

By GERRY BLACKWELL<br />

It’s the good ol’ summer time. Livin’ is<br />

easy, fish are jumpin’, cotton is high.<br />

And, hey, there’s music in the park.<br />

TD Sunfest <strong>2018</strong> may, alas, already be in<br />

the books by the time you read this. It goes<br />

Thursday, <strong>July</strong> 5 to Sunday, <strong>July</strong> 8 at Victoria<br />

Park. Old favourites Five Alarm Funk,<br />

Laila Biali and Lazo are scheduled, as well<br />

as exciting new acts like Guatemalan hip-hop<br />

sensation Doctor Nativo and British soul<br />

singer Hannah Williams. (Complete lineup<br />

here: goo.gl/JwyaNi.)<br />

Doctor Nativo<br />

Rock the Park lands in Harris Park<br />

Wednesday, <strong>July</strong> 11 to Saturday, <strong>July</strong> 14.<br />

It should be a blast — from the not-toodistant<br />

past. Thursday’s lineup includes<br />

Cyndi Lauper, out to prove girls still want<br />

to have fun, and 1980s Canadian new-wavers<br />

Platinum Blonde and Men Without Hats<br />

(no longer all men and reliably reported to<br />

sometimes wear hats). Both have new music<br />

to play. And that’s just one day. Friday the<br />

13th will be a lucky day for fans of 1990s pop.<br />

The lineup includes multi-platinum-selling<br />

rapper Coolio, teen R&B heartthrobs Boyz<br />

II Men, and cool-as-a-cucumber En Vogue.<br />

(Complete schedule here: goo.gl/GoZSE9.)<br />

Home County Music & Art Festival<br />

is back in Victoria Park for the 45th time,<br />

Friday, <strong>July</strong> 20 to Sunday, <strong>July</strong> 22. The Jim<br />

Cuddy Band headlines. This is Blue Rodeo<br />

co-founder Cuddy’s moonlight Men gig, Without featuring Hats<br />

Rodeo members and others. Their latest<br />

The Jim Cuddy Band<br />

album, Constellation, came out earlier this<br />

year. Also on the Home County bill: perennial<br />

favourites Sultans of Swing, Tom Wilson<br />

(one of Blackie’s Rodeo Kings), awardwinning<br />

London folk band Broomsticks &<br />

Hammers and Sarnia’s Donovan Woods, a<br />

jobbing songwriter in Nashville as well as an<br />

accomplished multi-instrument performer.<br />

(For a complete schedule: goo.gl/X1EHup.)<br />

Closing out the summer festival season,<br />

London Bluesfest <strong>2018</strong> rocks Harris Park<br />

from Thursday, <strong>August</strong> 23 to Sunday, <strong>August</strong><br />

26. The artist list skews a bit to the rock side<br />

again this year. Sass Jordan is here, and<br />

Rare Earth, Savoy Brown, Foghat, and<br />

Blue Oyster Cult. But there’s also lots of<br />

down-home blues with the iconic Downchild<br />

Blues Band, Juno-winning guitar hero<br />

Broomsticks & Hammers


eatdrink: The Local Food & Drink Magazine<br />

Tom Wilson<br />

Steve Strongman, Bill Durst and closer<br />

Colin James of Little Big Band fame. Check<br />

out the free London Market Blues event on<br />

Wednesday <strong>August</strong> 22 as well. (For complete<br />

Bluesfest schedule: https://goo.gl/rszrJk.)<br />

It’s not all outdoor music festivals, of<br />

course. There’s lots of music indoors as well<br />

this summer.<br />

Perhaps inspired by Platinum Blonde et<br />

al at Rock the Park, London Music Hall has<br />

Loverboy, another multi-platinum-selling<br />

1980s new wave band, on <strong>July</strong> 18. Their last<br />

album was 2014’s Unfinished Business, but it<br />

seems business still isn’t finished. Thirty years<br />

on, the Vancouver-based band continues to<br />

tour hard. C’mon out, turn them loose.<br />

The Stratford Summer Music concert<br />

<strong>July</strong>/<strong>August</strong> <strong>2018</strong> | 51<br />

series runs all summer in Shakespeareville.<br />

Stratford’s Revival House is hosting the<br />

cabaret series. Festival veteran Bruce Dow<br />

is there <strong>July</strong> 20 with a show called A Funny<br />

Proposition. Dow is an accomplished actor,<br />

singer and comedian. Dinner-show packages<br />

available.<br />

Jazz for the People is back. The free<br />

concerts are at Wolf Performance Hall<br />

(Central Library) on the third Wednesday of<br />

the month. On <strong>July</strong> 25 it’s London chanteuse<br />

Jennifer Thorpe “and friends.” No word yet<br />

on the friends, but Thorpe has performed in<br />

The Bettys<br />

DIGGIN’<br />

DUNDAS<br />

SHARE THE LOVE & WIN<br />

#DigginDundas


52 | <strong>July</strong>/<strong>August</strong> <strong>2018</strong><br />

the past with fellow<br />

London jazz songstress<br />

Sonia Gustafson.<br />

On <strong>August</strong> 22 it’s<br />

Toronto’s The Bettys,<br />

a dazzling harmony<br />

group that played a<br />

raucous concert in the<br />

series a couple of years<br />

ago. The Bettys do<br />

everything from 1920s Trixie Mattel<br />

jazz to Motown, and<br />

dress the part.<br />

Here’s something a little different. London<br />

Music Hall is bringing in American drag<br />

queen/singer-songwriter/comedian Trixie<br />

Mattel. It’s part of Trixie’s “Now With<br />

Moving Trixie Mattel Parts” tour. She’s famous from<br />

appearances on RuPaul’s Drag Race reality TV<br />

show. Which might tell you something. (Hint:<br />

over-the-top outrageous.)<br />

Monday, <strong>August</strong> 6 may not be the weekend<br />

but it should be a good day to head up to<br />

Bayfield. Hit the beach,<br />

have early dinner<br />

at one of the fine<br />

restaurants, then catch<br />

Stratford Celtic-folk<br />

outfit Rant Maggie<br />

Rant at Bayfield Town<br />

Hall. They’re fun and<br />

energetic, and this<br />

is the perfect homey<br />

venue for them.<br />

Head-bangers rejoice!<br />

And lament. Slayer, the<br />

seminal thrash metal<br />

Steve<br />

Earle<br />

band, is on its “Final World Tour,” and they’re<br />

coming to Budweiser Gardens on <strong>August</strong> 6.<br />

This is it, last chance. The London date is part<br />

of the tour’s second leg; the first virtually sold<br />

out — so don’t take too long deciding.<br />

A few nights later, Thursday, <strong>August</strong> 9,<br />

the Bud has alt-rockers The Smashing<br />

Pumpkins, on their “Shiny And Oh So<br />

Bright Tour” — also extended after sell-outs<br />

elsewhere in North America. It’s London’s<br />

good fortune to be one of the added stops.<br />

This is the first tour in 20 years to feature<br />

three of the founding Pumpkins.<br />

Another Revival House cabaret concert of<br />

note on <strong>August</strong> 10: Carole Pope, best known<br />

for “High School Confidential,” the big hit for<br />

her old band, Rough Trade. Pope is always<br />

surprising, always provocative. The show is<br />

called “Carole Pope’s Mystery Tour.” Dinner<br />

eatdrink.ca |@eatdrinkmag<br />

and show packages<br />

available.<br />

Calling all Comic<br />

Opera fans. No,<br />

not you Gilbert<br />

and Sullivan freaks.<br />

We’re talking about<br />

The Comic Opera.<br />

They played together<br />

for four years in<br />

the late 1960s and<br />

early 1970s. Now<br />

they’re back together in a two-night reunion<br />

at London Music Club Friday, <strong>August</strong> 10 and<br />

Saturday, <strong>August</strong> 11. Will anyone remember?<br />

Will they still be able to play? Do they know<br />

any Gilbert and Sullivan?<br />

Nazareth may not be quite as obscure, but<br />

almost. The Scottish hard-rockers, bigger at<br />

home than here, are at London Music Hall<br />

on Tuesday, <strong>August</strong> 28. It’s a stop on their<br />

“Howzat” tour. Only bassist Pete Agnew<br />

remains from the original foursome that came<br />

together in 1968, but<br />

he’s still going strong.<br />

One last beach<br />

run? Bayfield Town<br />

Hall hosts the annual<br />

Sunset on Summer<br />

BBQ at the park on<br />

Saturday, September<br />

1, with music by<br />

London alt-country<br />

band Cosmic<br />

Cowboys. The fun<br />

begins at 4:30 p.m.<br />

Bring the kids, have a<br />

burg and a beer, enjoy the music.<br />

Roots music stalwarts Steve Earle & The<br />

Dukes are at London Music Hall on Sunday,<br />

September 9. They’re on a 30th Anniversary<br />

tour for their seminal 1988 Copperhead Road<br />

album. Country with bite.<br />

Best for last: multi-Grammy winner Keith<br />

Urban plays the Bud on Saturday, September<br />

15. Urban, currently on a 58-city tour<br />

promoting his new Graffiti U album, needs<br />

no introduction, at least not to country fans.<br />

The Australian expat has been a mega-star in<br />

the country music world for 20 years but also<br />

crosses over to the pop charts.<br />

And so ends summer.<br />

GERRY BLACKWELL is a London-based freelance<br />

writer.


eatdrink: The Local Food & Drink Magazine<br />

<strong>July</strong>/<strong>August</strong> <strong>2018</strong> | 53<br />

Theatre<br />

Getting to the Heart of It<br />

Playwright Mark Crawford<br />

By JANE ANTONIAK<br />

There are more than 700,000<br />

curlers in Canada, according to<br />

Curling Canada, and many times<br />

that number of curling fans. Full<br />

disclosure: I am among those people<br />

who love to watch the game on<br />

TV, online, or being played by<br />

my daughter. She is the fifth<br />

generation curler in our family,<br />

following a family tradition<br />

that began in rural Manitoba,<br />

migrated to Thunder Bay<br />

and has now been played in<br />

London, Halifax and Calgary,<br />

all curling hotbeds in Canada.<br />

So to say we are excited about<br />

a curling play this summer at<br />

the Blyth Festival Theatre is a<br />

bit of an understatement. What is<br />

even better is that it was written by<br />

a local, Mark Crawford.<br />

The New Canadian Curling Club<br />

runs until <strong>August</strong> 23 at Blyth and it promises<br />

to be a fun way to cool off this summer. The<br />

story centres on four newcomers to Canada<br />

who try to learn how to throw rocks, sweep,<br />

keep score and absorb the complicated<br />

Mark Crawford<br />

Mark Crawford’s latest play is The New Canadian Curling<br />

Club (at the Blyth Festival Theatre until <strong>August</strong> 23). The play<br />

explores small town life through the experience of immigrants<br />

embracing a new sport, with generous dollops of humour.<br />

etiquette of the roaring game. This new play<br />

follows Crawford’s recent successful comedies,<br />

some of which were staged at Blyth and at<br />

Port Stanley Festival Theatre (Stag and Doe,<br />

Bed and Breakfast, and The Birds and the<br />

Bees). He has also written a children’s<br />

play over the past year, Boys,<br />

Girls and Other Mythological<br />

Characters.<br />

Crawford now lives in<br />

Stratford. However he was<br />

born and raised on a farm in<br />

the curling-infused region<br />

of Glencoe, just southwest<br />

of London, where he played<br />

the game a few times and was<br />

surrounded by those who love<br />

it. Crawford says the play is set<br />

in an anonymous small town in<br />

Ontario. “However, on another<br />

hand it’s a spin on a small town world<br />

in which a Jamaican character, an<br />

Indian character, a Chinese character and a<br />

Syrian character, who all live in this small<br />

town, are going to learn to curl. So I am<br />

drawing on the unexpected version of the<br />

small town story.” The curlers come together<br />

under the tutelage of a local person who<br />

is struggling with prejudice.<br />

Crawford says the play promises to be<br />

humorous, as the traditions of curling<br />

collide with the perspectives on the game<br />

from those who have never experienced<br />

it. “I am drawn to writing about small<br />

towns and those kinds of communities.<br />

I am interested in reflecting those<br />

communities on stage partly because<br />

those communities have been supportive<br />

of my writing. I do think that I am able<br />

to draw from authentic experience there<br />

and to know who those people are, what<br />

they sound like. I am not an outsider<br />

writing about small towns. I am drawing<br />

on personal experience.”


54 | <strong>July</strong>/<strong>August</strong> <strong>2018</strong><br />

Mark Crawford (right) starred with Paul Dunn in<br />

Bed and Breakfast. Photo courtesy of Centaur Theatre<br />

The artistic director at Blyth, Gil Garratt,<br />

credits Crawford’s success as a playwright with<br />

the amount of time he spends learning about<br />

his audience, in this case the rural Ontario<br />

summer theatre fans.<br />

“Even with his first play, Stag and Doe;<br />

before Mark pitched that play at Blyth, he had<br />

already been coming to the Festival and seeing<br />

shows for more than 10 years. He had spent<br />

so much time with the audience, seeing what<br />

they saw and feeling what they felt. He still<br />

does that, still spends time in the audience, in<br />

eatdrink.ca |@eatdrinkmag<br />

addition to being an actor himself. He has<br />

dedicated serious time to being a real part<br />

of the theatre,” says Garratt.<br />

Crawford has had his work staged across<br />

Canada, but he particularly likes to bring<br />

it home to theatres near Glencoe, such as<br />

the Port Stanley Festival Theatre. Artistic<br />

Director Simon Joynes calls Crawford a<br />

very talented comedy writer. “He doesn’t<br />

always take the easy way out with his work.<br />

He’s always willing to challenge an audience.<br />

Mark’s plays speak to our audiences,<br />

not only because they are smart and accessible<br />

pieces of writing, but also because he<br />

has roots in Southwestern Ontario, and those<br />

roots somehow allow our audiences to identify<br />

with his work,” says Joynes.<br />

Crawford left Glencoe after high school<br />

to study at the University of Toronto and<br />

Sheridan College joint program in theatre.<br />

Crawford is also an actor. Most recently he<br />

appeared in Prairie Nurse at The Factory<br />

Theatre in Toronto. Later this summer he will<br />

appear in the same show in Gananoque. He<br />

has also performed in his own plays (in Stag<br />

and Doe at Port Stanley as Jay the caterer, and<br />

LIVE. ORIGINAL. CANADIAN. THEATRE.<br />

MAY 30 TO SEPTEMBER 15, <strong>2018</strong><br />

1.877.862.5984 BLYTHFESTIVAL.COM


S E A S O N<br />

eatdrink: The Local Food & Drink Magazine<br />

PortStanley<br />

FestivalTheatre<br />

<strong>2018</strong><br />

6-302 Bridge Street<br />

Port Stanley Ont<br />

<strong>July</strong> 4 to <strong>July</strong> 21<br />

Stag and Doe, staged above at the Neptune Theatre in<br />

Halifax, made its debut at Blyth Festival in 2014.<br />

Photo courtesy of Timothy Richard<br />

by Shelley Hoffman<br />

& Stephen Sparks<br />

A comedy about hope, last stands,<br />

skunks and love among the chickens!<br />

<strong>July</strong> 25 to <strong>August</strong> 18<br />

The Birds and The Bees, with a scene above from its 2016<br />

debut at Blyth Festival, played to 96% capacity during<br />

its second staging at Port Stanley Festival Theatre.<br />

Photo courtesy of Blyth Festival<br />

in Bed and Breakfast in Montreal and Victoria).<br />

Next season he will appear in that play in<br />

Ottawa, Regina and Vancouver.<br />

Crawford says he is not interested in having<br />

one specific style as a writer or actor. “I am<br />

drawn to comedy but that is not to say that<br />

I will only, exclusively, write comedy. It is<br />

important to me that there is a real, human<br />

heart in all of my plays. Maybe that is my<br />

style. I hope that the plays are both very<br />

funny and have authentic depth to them, with<br />

people going through real things even though<br />

the situation is comedic.”<br />

Crawford is interested in relationships<br />

between families and friends, and to explore<br />

what it means to be a person. “My goal is to<br />

get to the heart of something.”<br />

JANE ANTONIAK is a regular contributor to <strong>Eatdrink</strong>.<br />

She is also Manager, Communications & Media Relations,<br />

at King’s University College in London.<br />

by Kristen Da Silva<br />

A delightfully quirky comedy<br />

from the writer of “Five Alarm”.<br />

<strong>August</strong> 22 to September 8<br />

by Sarah Quick<br />

Join us for our season closer<br />

and enjoy the ultimate road trip!<br />

Reserve Tickets www.psft.ca<br />

1-855-782-4353 or 519-782-4353<br />

Celebrating 40 Years of Live Theatre


56 | <strong>July</strong>/<strong>August</strong> <strong>2018</strong><br />

eatdrink.ca |@eatdrinkmag<br />

Books<br />

Rustle Up Some Grubs<br />

Edible: An Adventure into the World of Eating Insects<br />

and<br />

Eat the Beetles!<br />

Review by DARIN COOK<br />

When it comes to using insects<br />

as food, a cry of “bring on the<br />

delicacies” comes from certain<br />

cultures, whereas<br />

others need to be near-to-death<br />

starving before considering bugs<br />

for dinner. Two books, Edible: An<br />

Adventure into the World of Eating<br />

Insects and The Last Great Hope<br />

to Save the Planet (Houghton<br />

Mifflin, 2014) by Daniella<br />

Martin and Eat the Beetles! An<br />

Exploration into our Conflicted<br />

Relationship with Insects (ECW<br />

Press, 2017) by David Waltner-<br />

Toews, have taken steps<br />

beyond these polarizing camps<br />

by arguing that entomophagy<br />

(the eating of insects) has a<br />

lot going for it: a plentiful<br />

wild supply, few resources required to farm<br />

them, no butchering involved, and high<br />

nutritional value.<br />

Martin got interested in entomophagy as<br />

an anthropology student in Mexico.<br />

She extended her globetrotting to<br />

get experiences with cultures<br />

more accepting of such a practice.<br />

In Edible, she promotes<br />

her theory that “insects are<br />

the great untapped resource,<br />

the final frontier of natural<br />

food” by going to underground<br />

bug-eating parties in<br />

Tokyo, and to Noma (touted as<br />

the world’s best restaurant) in<br />

Copenhagen, where bugs are incorporated<br />

into the haute cuisine menu.<br />

Her philosophy of “farm pest to table”<br />

utilizes the natural world to counteract some<br />

Daniella Martin<br />

harmful impacts of traditional farming. One<br />

theory is that fields attract insects that can<br />

simultaneously be harvested while picking the<br />

crops. A yield of two different food sources<br />

can be extracted from the same plot<br />

of land, instead of disposing<br />

of one with pesticides<br />

that harm the other at the<br />

same time. These are the<br />

types of compelling ecological,<br />

economical, and practical<br />

reasons Martin has for eating<br />

insects, but she also knows<br />

how tasty they can be.<br />

The first bugs she tried<br />

were toasted grasshoppers<br />

in Mexico. While not overly<br />

enjoyable, she saw the appeal<br />

of their resemblance to burnt<br />

potato chips. Many bugs are<br />

compared to peanuts, almonds,<br />

and pistachios, with an overall consensus of<br />

having a nutty flavour profile. Martin likens<br />

queen ants to beef jerky popcorn kernels,<br />

and fried bamboo worms to extra<br />

crispy French fries. The first time<br />

she experimented at home,<br />

after mail-ordering wax moth<br />

larvae, Martin says they<br />

smelled liked mushrooms<br />

while cooking, and tasted<br />

like earthy, savoury raisins.<br />

Early in her research<br />

Martin confesses to being<br />

“on high alert for digestive<br />

disturbances” especially since<br />

insects are nearly always eaten<br />

whole, including outer shells not<br />

easily digested by humans. Even with<br />

the smorgasbord of insects she has sampled,


eatdrink: The Local Food & Drink Magazine<br />

<strong>July</strong>/<strong>August</strong> <strong>2018</strong> | 57<br />

including tougher-to-swallow critters like<br />

scorpions and whole tarantulas (the former<br />

she compares to crab and the latter to chewy<br />

Korean barbeque), she admits that insects<br />

have never caused any gastrointestinal<br />

problems. But she knows there is<br />

a stigma to overcome, so Martin<br />

digs deep with nutritional and<br />

ecological arguments to make her<br />

case for insect eating. She also<br />

includes an appendix of insects<br />

that are safe to consume, and a<br />

compendium of some tried-andtrue<br />

recipes (Wax Moth Tacos<br />

or Cricket Kale Salad, anyone?).<br />

It may not be easy for North<br />

Americans to whole-heartedly<br />

swallow the idea, but even<br />

insinuating insects into one’s<br />

diet in small doses could lead<br />

to major change.<br />

Three years later Waltner-<br />

Toews, a veterinarian from<br />

Kitchener, has expanded on this topic in<br />

Eat the Beetles! and I was curious to see if<br />

entomophagy has become more acceptable.<br />

Have insects been popping up on more restaurant<br />

menus? Have they graduated<br />

from exotic to mainstream? Have<br />

insect farms started replacing<br />

cattle farms? Has a reliance<br />

on insects as food helped<br />

the world or has the trend<br />

stayed too small to have an<br />

impact? Are the squeamish<br />

still too squeamish?<br />

While the writing style<br />

of Martin had more of a<br />

pop culture vibe, that of<br />

Waltner-Toews is more scientific,<br />

albeit very readable and enjoyable,<br />

especially with his whimsical<br />

reference to the (human) Beatles, not only<br />

in the title, but in chapters alluding to Fab<br />

Four songs — Cricket to Ride; Can’t Buy Me<br />

Bugs; I Am the Cockroach. Each punninglytitled<br />

chapter deals with questions that have<br />

cropped up since “global beetle-mania.” His<br />

research takes him to fine dining in Paris (for<br />

the best insect preparations), wasp hunting<br />

in Japan, and cricket farming in Cambodia.<br />

One thing that the three years between<br />

these books has provided is more time for<br />

scientific research, to see if entomophagy<br />

has teeth to support global food security or<br />

will lead to newer ecological disasters. There<br />

David Waltner-Toews<br />

is a deep symbiotic relationship between<br />

insects and the natural world and taking away<br />

too many insects from the wild could have<br />

unintentional consequences. This concern<br />

leads Waltner-Toews to examine the viable<br />

options currently underway in insect farming.<br />

Although optimistic about bugs<br />

showing up in markets and<br />

on menus, Waltner-Toews’<br />

tone is more cautious,<br />

compared to Martin’s<br />

enthusiasm to convert all of<br />

us to insect eaters. He has<br />

good experiences sampling<br />

bug dishes: palm weevil<br />

larvae taste like dried figs to<br />

him and seasoned crickets<br />

are a legitimate substitute for<br />

greasy bar snacks. Given the<br />

overarching comparisons to<br />

snack foods, bugs may not have<br />

leapt to the plate to replace meat<br />

entrées yet; their main success<br />

comes as protein replacements in<br />

tacos surrounded by the other accoutrements<br />

to make a Mexican-style meal. For the newly<br />

initiated, some of the least offensive offerings<br />

are insect eggs as seasoning on upscale<br />

dishes (similar to the use of caviar)<br />

or an amalgam of bugs mixed<br />

with vegetables in stir-fries or<br />

salads. Some companies are<br />

successfully using ground-up<br />

cricket flour as protein<br />

powder in energy bars to<br />

mask any resemblance to sixlegged<br />

creatures.<br />

For many cultures,<br />

entomol ogy and gastronomy<br />

have already collided in ancient<br />

methods of sustenance or as more<br />

recent trends to embellish menus.<br />

Leaving taboos at the door while reading<br />

these books may lead to some new tasty<br />

snacks, while jumping into a movement<br />

that can alleviate global problems. Even if<br />

overcoming cultural aversions seems difficult,<br />

remember that bugs are already engrained<br />

in many indigenous cuisines, and the advice<br />

of Waltner-Toews is: “If you are a guest in<br />

another country, and they offer you bugs to<br />

eat, it is rude to decline the offer.”<br />

DARIN COOK is a regular <strong>Eatdrink</strong> contributor.


58 | <strong>July</strong>/<strong>August</strong> <strong>2018</strong><br />

eatdrink.ca |@eatdrinkmag<br />

Recipes<br />

Firehouse Chef<br />

Recipes from Canada’s Firefighters<br />

By Patrick Mathieu<br />

Review and Recipe Selections by TRACY TURLIN<br />

Patrick Mathieu is a Quebec<br />

native who was influenced by his<br />

grandmother to learn to cook at<br />

the age of 16. A few years later he<br />

was inspired by his grandfather and uncles<br />

to become a firefighter. Sixteen years on,<br />

Mathieu now works for the Waterloo Fire<br />

Department. He and his wife Andrea Lauren<br />

own Station House Catering and Private Chef<br />

Services. He’s a food columnist for Firefighting<br />

in Canada magazine and was a contestant on<br />

Season 2 of Food Network Canada’s Chopped<br />

Canada. Somewhere in there he found time to<br />

write a cookbook: Firehouse Chef: Recipes from<br />

Canada’s Firefighters (Whitecap Books, 2016).<br />

According to the author, rookies are given<br />

the following choices in the firehouse kitchen:<br />

cook for a bunch of hungry firefighters, or<br />

clean up after them. For Mathieu the decision<br />

was easy. He developed his firefighting/<br />

life-saving skills, balanced that out with his<br />

culinary skills, and found he loved them both.<br />

Firehouse Chef was more than the meat and<br />

potatoes fare I was expecting. These men and<br />

women seem to love their food spicy. I was<br />

also surprised at the number of desserts on<br />

offer. Mathieu gives us 90 of his own recipes,<br />

ranging from classic French<br />

Canadian dishes to Italian and<br />

Mexican favourites. He and his<br />

wife honeymooned in Thailand,<br />

and their love for the beautiful<br />

flavours of that country are<br />

apparent in this book. Fifty<br />

further recipes are contributions<br />

from other firehouse cooks<br />

across Canada, including a<br />

number from Southwestern<br />

Ontario. If you know any<br />

firefighters, you’ll definitely<br />

want to check this out to see<br />

if they have a<br />

recipe included.<br />

I never really<br />

get tired of<br />

fresh Ontario<br />

corn with a<br />

simple butter/<br />

salt/pepper<br />

treatment,<br />

but Mexican<br />

Grilled<br />

Corn is a<br />

decadent<br />

alternative<br />

and sure to<br />

impress at your next cookout.<br />

A beautiful balance of sweet corn, salty<br />

cheese and tangy lime, these are only made<br />

better by being incredibly messy. The perfect<br />

summer food made for sharing with a crowd.<br />

If you like the camping vibe without the<br />

wood smoke and mosquitoes, try a slightly<br />

more upscale version of the campfire<br />

classic, S’mores Sundae. It’s a great way to<br />

enjoy the flavours of childhood memories<br />

without dropping marshmallows in the fire.<br />

(Does anyone else like them charred on the<br />

outside? Tasty, but difficult<br />

to find the sweet spot before<br />

they go nuclear.)<br />

For an easy and quick<br />

weeknight dinner in the<br />

summer, you can’t do much<br />

better than Grilled Ahi<br />

Tuna with Sicilian Salsa. The<br />

flavourful salsa can be made<br />

ahead of time and the tuna<br />

can be grilled in less than five<br />

minutes. It makes for a very<br />

Author Patrick Mathieu


eatdrink: The Local Food & Drink Magazine<br />

light yet satisfying dinner. Salad or pasta<br />

could be served alongside, depending on your<br />

appetite.<br />

I could cook from this book all summer<br />

and never run out of recipes I want to try.<br />

I actually tried to find a recipe I didn’t like<br />

the look of and couldn’t find one. (Maybe<br />

the risotto. I don’t get risotto. Is it rice? Is<br />

it cream? Is it mushy, crunchy?) What was I<br />

saying? Oh yes, all of Firehouse Chef’s recipes<br />

— including risotto — are flavourful dishes<br />

that work as well for a busy family as they do<br />

for busy firefighters.<br />

In addition to the wonderful food, we get<br />

a glimpse into the lighter side of life in a<br />

working firehouse. This book is as much fun to<br />

read as it is to cook from.<br />

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TRACY TURLIN is a freelance writer and dog groomer<br />

in London. Reach her at tracyturlin@gmail.com<br />

Recipes excerpted from Firehouse Chef: Recipes from<br />

Canada’s Firefighters. Published by Whitecap Books.<br />

Reproduced by arrangement with the Publisher. All<br />

rights reserved.<br />

519-229-6856<br />

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60 | <strong>July</strong>/<strong>August</strong> <strong>2018</strong><br />

Mexican Grilled Corn<br />

Serves 4<br />

In Ontario, we really look forward to fresh<br />

corn season and in the fire house a couple dozen<br />

cobs will regularly show up during a shift. Try<br />

this Mexican street-food edition to dress up<br />

your next cob.<br />

4 ears fresh corn, husked<br />

½ cup (125 ml) mayonnaise<br />

½ Tbsp (7.5 ml) Mexican-style chili powder<br />

½ Tbsp (7.5 ml) smoked paprika<br />

1 tsp (5 ml) finely grated lime zest<br />

½ cup (125 ml) crumbled cotija, queso fresco or<br />

feta cheese<br />

Kosher salt, to taste<br />

Freshly ground pepper, to taste<br />

½ cup (125 ml) fresh cilantro, chopped<br />

1 lime, cut into wedges, for serving<br />

eatdrink.ca |@eatdrinkmag<br />

Prepare<br />

a gas or charcoal<br />

grill over high heat. Grill the corn,<br />

turning frequently with tongs until the kernels have<br />

softened and are charred in spots, 6-8 minutes. Remove<br />

from the grill and allow to cool slightly.<br />

In a small bowl, combine the mayonnaise, chili powder,<br />

smoked paprika and lime zest. Put the cheese on a small<br />

plate. Brush each ear of corn with about 1 Tbsp (5 ml)<br />

mayonnaise mixture and then roll in the cheese to coat.<br />

Sprinkle with salt, pepper and cilantro and serve with lime<br />

wedges for squeezing over the corn.


eatdrink: The Local Food & Drink Magazine<br />

S’mores Sundae<br />

Serves 6<br />

Sundaes are a really simple way to have fun<br />

with dessert, and they are a regular treat in<br />

the firehouse. This easy and decadent twist on<br />

everyone’s campfire classic might surpass the<br />

original, with a homemade chocolate ganache,<br />

toasted marshmallow and lots of ice cream!<br />

12 graham crackers<br />

3 Tbsp (45 ml) brown sugar<br />

1 stick unsalted butter, melted<br />

Pinch of kosher salt<br />

40 large marshmallows<br />

½ lb (225 g) good-quality dark chocolate<br />

½ cup (125 ml) heavy cream<br />

2 cups (500 ml) vanilla bean ice cream<br />

2 cups (500 ml) chocolate chunk ice cream<br />

<strong>July</strong>/<strong>August</strong> <strong>2018</strong> | 61<br />

Preheat oven to 325°F (160°C) and line a baking tray<br />

with parchment paper. Add the graham crackers to a<br />

food processor and process into fine crumbs. Add the<br />

sugar, butter and salt and pulse until the mixture is well<br />

incorporated. Pour out onto baking tray and form into one<br />

large “cookie.” Bake until light golden brown, about 15<br />

minutes. Let cool completely then break into crumbles.<br />

Preheat oven on broil. Lay marshmallows on a<br />

parchment-lined baking tray in a single layer and place<br />

under the broiler for just a couple of minutes until<br />

browned well all over. Remove and set aside.<br />

Finely chop the chocolate and place in bowl. Heat the<br />

heavy cream over medium heat until just starting to<br />

simmer. Pour the heavy cream over the chocolate and<br />

fold until the chocolate melts and it becomes a smooth<br />

ganache.<br />

Place 1 scoop each of vanilla and chocolate ice cream<br />

in a parfait glass or bowl. Layer your sundae with dark<br />

chocolate ganache, graham cracker crumbles and a<br />

toasted marshmallow or two on top.


62 | <strong>July</strong>/<strong>August</strong> <strong>2018</strong><br />

eatdrink.ca |@eatdrinkmag<br />

The Lighter Side<br />

Give Peas a Chance<br />

By DARIN COOK<br />

It is not surprising that romantic unions<br />

occur over a common love of certain<br />

foods, as dictated by the adage that<br />

the way to one’s heart can be through<br />

the stomach. Less often will you see a couple<br />

bonding over a meal liked by one individual<br />

but not by the other. Such incompatibilities,<br />

though, can provide insights into how<br />

relationships work. It was definitely<br />

not my culinary skills that urged<br />

my wife to enter into holy<br />

matrimony with me, but it<br />

was my cooking during our<br />

courtship that taught us both<br />

some relationship lessons.<br />

When we were dating, the<br />

first meal I cooked for my future<br />

wife was my signature dish, one far more<br />

elaborate in my mind than in reality. I called<br />

it Chicken and Peas over Rice. By cooking for<br />

her in the early stages of our dating, I thought<br />

I was proving that I was not useless as a<br />

potential mate, and I was under the illusion<br />

that it was more romantic to surprise her<br />

with a homemade dish than to let her in on<br />

what to expect for dinner. I may have had this<br />

recipe down pat — open a can of soup and a<br />

container of sour cream for the sauce, split<br />

open a bag of frozen peas, boil Minute Rice,<br />

cut boneless chicken breasts into cubes. But it<br />

is stupefying that I thought it was worthy of<br />

serving to a girl I was trying to impress.<br />

A few days after I made this meal she told<br />

me, “I hate peas, but I like you, so I ate them,<br />

and now peas aren’t so bad.” Never would I<br />

have guessed that love could edge someone<br />

towards liking more vegetables. Up to that<br />

point she had known she liked me, but by<br />

eating those peas she learned just how far she<br />

would go for our relationship. She could have<br />

easily gone the other way, thinking, “I was on<br />

the fence about whether I liked this guy and it<br />

doesn’t seem worth it to eat something I don’t<br />

like, so it may be time to call it quits.”<br />

But that did not happen. The peas had not<br />

driven her away. However I wanted to avoid<br />

giving her any more reasons to stop eating<br />

with me. I had learned my lesson and decided<br />

to ask more questions about what she liked<br />

eating. I found out she liked Mexican and Asian<br />

food, and not long after we got engaged over a<br />

platter of Mexican-Asian nachos: a successful<br />

fusion dish with successful results.<br />

After twelve years of marriage and<br />

the addition of two sons to our fold,<br />

I still try to impress my wife with<br />

my cooking. Although I do a lot<br />

of things wrong in the kitchen,<br />

even when meticulously<br />

following a recipe, I hope that<br />

my attempts remind her that I<br />

wasn’t such a bad catch after all.<br />

And when I take over the kitchen I<br />

always ask, even if slightly uncertain after all<br />

these years, whether she likes persimmons, or<br />

bamboo shoots.<br />

To this day, especially when we are trying<br />

to get our two sons to try new foods, my wife<br />

says, “You know, I really hated peas until the<br />

first time your dad cooked dinner for me.”<br />

And I reply with, “Actually, your mother<br />

did not know how much she liked me until<br />

she tried peas. Only then did she realize she<br />

would do anything for me. And look where it<br />

got her: she has me and she likes peas.”<br />

I still make Chicken and Peas over Rice<br />

for our family of four. I know it may be<br />

unrefined, but I make it with love every time,<br />

because it could very well be one of those<br />

links in our relationship chain that made our<br />

love grow stronger. That first meal may not<br />

have been the way to my wife’s heart, but she<br />

learned that she can tolerate certain things<br />

for love. And I learned the importance of<br />

asking more questions.<br />

DARIN COOK is a regular <strong>Eatdrink</strong> contributor.


eatdrink: The Local Food & Drink Magazine<br />

<strong>July</strong>/<strong>August</strong> <strong>2018</strong> | 63<br />

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64 | <strong>July</strong>/<strong>August</strong> <strong>2018</strong><br />

eatdrink.ca |@eatdrinkmag<br />

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