Eatdrink Waterloo & Wellington #2 August/September 2018

Local food and drink magazine serving Waterloo Region and Wellington County.

Local food and drink magazine serving Waterloo Region and Wellington County.


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Issue #W2 | <strong>August</strong>/<strong>September</strong> <strong>2018</strong><br />

eatdrink<br />

The LOCAL Food & Drink Magazine<br />

FREE<br />

Gilt<br />

Restaurant<br />

Small Plates<br />

& Big Flavour<br />


Crafty Ramen<br />

Ramen Renaissance in Guelph<br />

Willibald Farm Distillery<br />

Taking It Slow in Ayr<br />

Road Trip!<br />

Stratford's<br />

Gastro<br />

Scene<br />

Where to Eat in <strong>2018</strong><br />

Serving <strong>Waterloo</strong> Region & <strong>Wellington</strong> County<br />


2 |<strong>August</strong>/<strong>September</strong> <strong>2018</strong><br />

eatdrink.ca |@eatdrinkmag<br />





Bacon and ale are a combination made in heaven,<br />

includes 5 tastes for just $30.<br />

-<br />

Stratford Tourism Alliance at 47 Downie Street.<br />


eatdrink<br />

The LOCAL Food & Drink Magazine<br />

eatdrinkmagazine<br />

@eatdrinkmag<br />

eatdrinkmag<br />

eatdrink.ca<br />

Think Global. Read Local.<br />

Publisher<br />

Chris McDonell – chris@eatdrink.ca<br />

Managing Editor Cecilia Buy – cbuy@eatdrink.ca<br />

Food Editor Bryan Lavery – bryan@eatdrink.ca<br />

Editorial Consultant Andrew Coppolino<br />

Copy Editor Kym Wolfe<br />

Social Media Editor Bryan Lavery – bryan@eatdrink.ca<br />

Advertising Sales Chris McDonell – chris@eatdrink.ca<br />

Bryan Lavery – bryan@eatdrink.ca<br />

Stacey McDonald – stacey@eatdrink.ca<br />

Terry Lynn “TL” Sim – TL@eatdrink.ca<br />

Finances<br />

Ann Cormier – finance@eatdrink.ca<br />

Graphics<br />

Chris McDonell, Cecilia Buy<br />

Writers<br />

Jane Antoniak, Darin Cook, Andrew<br />

Coppolino, Gary Killops, Bryan Lavery,<br />

George Macke, Tracy Turlin<br />

Photographers Steve Grimes, Nick Lavery, Brogan McNabb<br />

Telephone & Fax 519-434-8349<br />

Mailing Address 525 Huron Street, London ON N5Y 4J6<br />

Website<br />

City Media<br />

Printing<br />

Sportswood Printing<br />


An array of images helps capture some of the<br />

myriad urbane<br />

appeals of Gilt<br />

Restaurant<br />

in Downtown<br />

Kitchener. The<br />

ambiance,<br />

the cuisine,<br />

the location<br />

... Read the<br />

story by Bryan<br />

Lavery on<br />

page 6.<br />

© <strong>2018</strong> <strong>Eatdrink</strong> Inc. and the writers.<br />

All rights reserved.<br />

Reproduction or duplication of any material published in<br />

<strong>Eatdrink</strong> or on <strong>Eatdrink</strong>.ca is strictly prohibited without<br />

the written permis sion of the Publisher. <strong>Eatdrink</strong> has a printed<br />

circulation of 20,000 issues published six times annually. The<br />

views or opinions expressed in the information, content and/<br />

or advertisements published in <strong>Eatdrink</strong> or online are solely<br />

those of the author(s) and do not necessarily represent those of<br />

the Publisher. The Publisher welcomes submissions but accepts no<br />

responsibility for unsolicited material.<br />

Serving up<br />

Great<br />

partnerships<br />

commercial | digital | wide format | design<br />

Let us help with your next project...<br />

519.866.5558 | ben@sportswood.on.ca<br />


Contents<br />

Issue #W2 | <strong>August</strong>/<strong>September</strong> <strong>2018</strong><br />

Publisher’s Notes<br />

Spreading the Word<br />

Let's Communicate!!<br />


5<br />

6<br />

Spirits<br />

Taking it Slow<br />

Willibald Farm Distillery<br />


38<br />

Restaurants<br />

Small Plates & Big Flavours<br />

Gilt Restaurant in Kitchener<br />


6<br />

Ramen Renaissance<br />

Crafty Ramen in Guelph<br />


10<br />

Road Trips<br />

Stratford's Gastro Scene<br />

Where to Eat in <strong>2018</strong><br />


14<br />

The BUZZ<br />

Culinary Community Notes<br />

22<br />

Spotlight<br />

A Taste of Place<br />

Taste Detours in Guelph<br />

40<br />

Two Books on<br />

Eating Insects!<br />


28<br />

10<br />

42<br />

33<br />

14<br />

38<br />

Beer<br />

Twelve Temptations<br />

Local Craft Beers for Summer<br />


33<br />

Wine<br />

Finding “Somewhereness”<br />

Terroir In a Glass of Wine<br />


37<br />

Books<br />

Rustle Up Some Grubs<br />

Edible and Eat The Beetles!<br />

Reviews by DARIN COOK<br />

40<br />

Recipes<br />

Firehouse Chef<br />

Recipes from Canada’s Firefighters<br />

Review & Recipe Selections by TRACY TURLIN<br />

42<br />

The Lighter Side<br />

Give Peas a Chance<br />


46<br />


<strong>Eatdrink</strong>: The Local Food & Drink Magazine<br />

Publisher’s Notes<br />

Spreading the Word<br />

Let's Communicate!<br />


<strong>August</strong>/<strong>September</strong> <strong>2018</strong> | 5<br />

Thank you for the warm welcome we<br />

have enjoyed in <strong>Waterloo</strong> Region<br />

& <strong>Wellington</strong> County! This is only<br />

our second issue here, so we're<br />

definitely the new kid on the block, but what<br />

a friendly neighbourhood we have moved<br />

into. We've been adding new distribution<br />

points for our print editions every week, at<br />

select locations where we think we're likely<br />

to find readers who will<br />

enjoy and appreciate our<br />

presentation of local food<br />

and drink stories. We do our best to keep<br />

that list updated on our website (eatdrink.<br />

ca/find-us). Of course, the magazine is also<br />

always available online, in full, for those who<br />

prefer that. The magazine scales beautifully<br />

to your device — smartphone, tablet or<br />

computer — and we encourage you to follow<br />

us on Facebook, Twitter or Instagram, or all<br />

three! Your feedback is always appreciated.<br />

In this issue, we're excited to tell the stories<br />

of two very different restaurants. Bryan<br />

Lavery visited Gilt Restaurant in Downtown<br />

Kitchener for <strong>Eatdrink</strong>, while Andrew<br />

Coppolino checked out Guelph's Crafty<br />

Ramen. We know that "all that glitters is not<br />

gold," but Bryan discovered that Gilt is truly<br />

golden, while Andrew found out that "craft"<br />

is definitely an apt descriptor for the food at<br />

Crafty Ramen. Our approach at <strong>Eatdrink</strong> is to<br />

only write about businesses that we like, and<br />

we're confident you will share our enthusiasm.<br />

Andrew also drove out to Ayr on the<br />

magazine's behalf to visit the innovative folks<br />

at Willibald Farm Distillery. Fortunately for<br />

consumers (us drinkers), the province of<br />

Ontario is removing some of the obstacles<br />

that have made the craft distillery business<br />

so challenging. Read on to see how cool<br />

agriculture can be.<br />

Bryan took a road trip to Stratford. In<br />

truth, he took a number of trips, and you'll<br />

see his recommendations on where to eat and<br />

eatdrink.ca<br />

drink in"Festival City." The theatre is world<br />

class, but so is Stratford's culinary scene.<br />

I know full well how much Bryan labours<br />

for this magazine, but it's also hard not to<br />

feel a little envy at times. An exploratory trip<br />

he took to Guelph with our sales rep TL Sim<br />

turned into such a treat that we found room<br />

to feature it in a short "Spotlight" story. Read<br />

about Taste Detours on page 28.<br />

Our cookbook reviewer<br />

Tracy Turlin spent some<br />

quality time with Canada's<br />

firefighters, but only through the pages of<br />

Firehouse Chef by Patrick Mathieu. Patrick<br />

is a firefighter with the <strong>Waterloo</strong> Fire<br />

Department and we've been looking forward<br />

to featuring his book for awhile. Bonus: we<br />

got permission to share three recipes and<br />

you'll find them all here.<br />

There's plenty more in this issue, with<br />

reviews of a couple of unusual (perhaps<br />

unsettling for some) books on eating insects.<br />

I do not envision many readers muttering<br />

"Yum" at this thought! But there is definitely<br />

food for thought there.<br />

I will close here with a plug for our "Buzz"<br />

column, which is our summary of the culinary<br />

news that we know our readers devour. We<br />

encourage local chefs, restaurateurs, managers<br />

— and readers — to send us info. While<br />

we've always got our ears to the ground, the<br />

area we cover is so large and there is so much<br />

happening that we truly need assistance with<br />

this. There is no charge to be included here<br />

and we strive to include as much news as<br />

possible. In addition to sharing this info in the<br />

magazine, we often also share it through our<br />

social media channels. Contact info is at the<br />

end of the Buzz column. We look forward to<br />

hearing from you.<br />

CHRIS McDONELL founded <strong>Eatdrink</strong> in 2007.

6 |<strong>August</strong>/<strong>September</strong> <strong>2018</strong><br />

eatdrink.ca |@eatdrinkmag<br />

Restaurants<br />

Small Plates and Big Flavours<br />

Gilt Restaurant in Downtown Kitchener<br />


The culinary scene in Kitchener-<br />

<strong>Waterloo</strong> is being nourished by the<br />

community, including from the<br />

thriving tech industry (from indie<br />

startups to international goliaths), global think<br />

tanks, condo developments and downtown<br />

Kitchener’s pedestrian-friendly urban vibe<br />

and entrepreneurial spirit. The new LRT line<br />

is helping to transform the region by creating<br />

better access to Downtown Kitchener and<br />

Uptown <strong>Waterloo</strong>. Initiatives launched by the<br />

City of Kitchener to galvanize the downtown<br />

core are making an impact. New lighting was<br />

added to the streets, sidewalks were enlarged,<br />

and curbs were<br />

lowered. Planned<br />

developments are<br />

exploring ways to<br />

bring more retail and<br />

restaurants to the<br />

streetscape.<br />

Downtown<br />

Kitchener exemplifies<br />

a new urban identity,<br />

with arts, culture,<br />

recreation and<br />

commercial spaces<br />

that underpin an<br />

excellent quality of life and well-being.<br />

Anchored by Kitchener Market, this<br />

district is home to one of the region’s<br />

most interesting cluster of culturally<br />

diverse restaurants and eateries. Venture<br />

along King and Queen Streets to explore<br />

independent, locally owned shops,<br />

Gilt is urbane, open, airy and sophisticated, with<br />

lofty ceilings and a stylish and comfortable<br />

industrial ambiance. The 65-seat restaurant is<br />

located on the main floor of an office tower.

<strong>Eatdrink</strong>: The Local Food & Drink Magazine<br />

<strong>August</strong>/<strong>September</strong> <strong>2018</strong> | 7<br />

attractive cafés, pubs and great restos like TWH<br />

Social Club, La Cucina, The Rich Uncle, B at the<br />

Museum and Gilt Restaurant. The influx — and<br />

growth — of technology firms in Kitchener’s<br />

downtown have changed the area and the restaurant<br />

scene continues to morph to better serve not only<br />

the millennial crowd and the tech community but<br />

the increased foot traffic and energy that seasonal<br />

events bring to the core.<br />

Trella White and Stephanie Randall, both in<br />

their late twenties, grew up in Cambridge, Ontario,<br />

attending the same high school. Being roommates<br />

throughout university and friends since high school,<br />

they graduated from Wilfrid Laurier University with<br />

Bachelors of Business Administration. White and<br />

her mother (Starr) opened the much-lauded farmto-table<br />

inspired Cork Restaurant in Elora in 2010.<br />

After university, Stephanie joined them as a partner<br />

and took over the kitchen operations.<br />

Stephanie has a passion for the kitchen and quickly<br />

became an accomplished and creative cook under the<br />

chef at Cork. In relatively short order, she assumed<br />

the lead in the kitchen and along the way transformed<br />

into a professional, self-taught chef. Randall and<br />

White operated Cork for several years before they<br />

decided to expand their business interests. They<br />

set their sights on Kitchener-<strong>Waterloo</strong>, ultimately<br />

choosing their current location for their new<br />

restaurant. “Downtown Kitchener stood out to us, as<br />

it is a vibrant, creative, technology-driven community<br />

and we knew we had to be a part of it,” says White.<br />

"We didn’t want to be followers, we wanted to be<br />

leaders. When we moved to downtown Kitchener<br />

there weren’t any restaurants doing anything<br />

remotely similar to what we wanted to do. There was<br />

no one here downtown and we changed and innovated<br />

as the tech sector grew, evolving both the restaurant<br />

and catering business.”<br />

Gilt opened in <strong>September</strong> of 2014, a contemporary<br />

tapas restaurant with a millennial vibe in a<br />

re-purposed space in the heart of the technology<br />

triangle. The bar, lounge and 65-seat restaurant on the<br />

main floor of the office tower at 305 King Street West<br />

can also boast an elevated patio for alfresco eating and<br />

drinking. Gilt is urbane, open, airy and sophisticated,<br />

with lofty ceilings and a stylish and comfortable<br />

industrial ambiance. The music is upbeat.<br />

Gilt is about sharing, feasting, authenticity, quality<br />

ingredients and celebrating craft, innovation and<br />

From the top: Korean Fried Chicken (KFC) with honey bourbon and<br />

hoisin served with golden-brown potato puffs;<br />

Hot quail with grilled jalapeño cornbread, dill pickled, buttermilk<br />

aioli & Tennessee hot oil;<br />

Beef Tartar with yolk, toasted nori powder, ginger, soy, bird’s eye<br />

chillies, peanuts & cilantro, served with potato chips.

8 |<strong>August</strong>/<strong>September</strong> <strong>2018</strong><br />

eatdrink.ca |@eatdrinkmag<br />

From the top: Ramp Tortellini with hibiscussoaked<br />

raspberries, smoked Gorgonzola,<br />

toasted hazelnuts & grilled mushrooms;<br />

Paella with saffron rice, Argentinian pink<br />

shrimp, littleneck clams & cornmealcrusted<br />

basa fish;<br />

Yellowfin Tuna Nachos;<br />

Right, from the top: Pickled Mussels with<br />

grilled broccoli, charred sweet potato<br />

challah bread & avocado yogurt;<br />

Pina colada Thai pancake;<br />

Grilled Shrimp with smashed potatoes, hard<br />

boiled egg, sweet pickled rhubarb & arugula;<br />

Beef tatami with watermelon radish, fresh<br />

chilis, tomatoes, sesame and pickled radish.<br />

tradition. Chef de cuisine Alex<br />

Janke has been at Gilt since the<br />

beginning. Randall and White<br />

tend to focus on the catering<br />

end of the business. The culinary<br />

team share innate instincts when<br />

it comes to flavours, marrying<br />

global ingredients and enriching<br />

dishes by taking them to other<br />

contemporary dimensions. In<br />

speaking with Janke, I learned<br />

that he has been cooking for a<br />

decade and attended the Culinary<br />

Management program at Niagara<br />

College. His repertoire includes<br />

a variety of cuisine ranging from<br />

Thai and Indian to French and<br />

Mexican. “My favourite flavour<br />

profiles are Thai and Mexican<br />

combined with local ingredients,"<br />

says Janke. "For me, keeping<br />

ingredients as local as possible is<br />

essential if we would like to keep<br />

our farmers and businesses in<br />

Southern Ontario prosperous.”<br />

As for Janke’s favourite places<br />

in K-W, “I’d have to say Arabella<br />

Park Beer Bar if I’m going for a<br />

quick bite to eat and drink, and<br />

Red House is, in my<br />

opinion, one of the best<br />

restaurants in <strong>Waterloo</strong>.”<br />

Dinner service<br />

focuses on a well-chosen<br />

selection of smaller<br />

tapas-style offerings<br />

divided into categories:<br />

Fish, Meat and Vegetarian.<br />

This menu style<br />

proves to be infinitely<br />

versatile, giving diners<br />

the opportunity to<br />

curate their own tasting<br />

experience, rather than<br />

offering individual starters<br />

and main courses.<br />

Shareable plates allow<br />

diners to eat communally<br />

and sample a variety of<br />

items. Dishes are brought<br />

to the table gradually<br />

and continuously throughout the meal by conversant,<br />

friendly service professionals.<br />

The sharing and small plates menu appeal to the<br />

sophisticated, global palate, with culturally-grounded<br />

contemporary offerings like Middle Eastern-inspired

<strong>Eatdrink</strong>: The Local Food & Drink Magazine<br />

fried cauliflower florets with citrus aioli,<br />

chives, pomegranate, and pine nuts or baconwrapped<br />

dates with chorizo, which are rich,<br />

dense and sweet. Korean Fried Chicken (KFC)<br />

with honey bourbon and hoisin has a super<br />

crunchy kick and is served with golden-brown<br />

potato puffs. Yellowfin tuna nachos are served<br />

with mustard emulsion and a tangy lime aioli,<br />

with a soy reduction and crispy taro root<br />

chips. Brussels sprouts “Caesar” is prepared<br />

with fried caper popcorn, hard Spanish<br />

Manchego, orange wedges and blue cheese.<br />

The menu features an astonishingly<br />

delectable Beef Tartar with yolk, toasted<br />

nori powder, ginger, soy, bird’s eye chillies,<br />

peanuts and cilantro and served with potato<br />

chips. Try the Curried Oxtail with dukkhaseasoned<br />

(Egyptian spice blend) sweet potato<br />

gnocchi, candied ginger cream, parsnip chips<br />

and curried tomato butter or Lamb Neck<br />

Fries with hand-cut skinny fries, tamarind<br />

raita, tandoori salsa, feta cheese and aromatic<br />

Rogan Josh gravy.<br />

Sharing plates and appetizers have<br />

become the contemporary entrée, with<br />

tapas, cicchetti, meze, and other small tastes<br />

popping up on menus. Call it the era of the<br />

curated tasting menu, or cloud nine, for those<br />

diners who want to nosh on it all. Expect to<br />

order too much, and finish it all anyway.<br />

I asked White about why the restaurant is<br />

named Gilt. She explained how they loved the<br />

many iterations of the meaning of the word<br />

and how they applied to the restaurant: gilt as<br />

in "covered thinly with gold leaf or gold paint"<br />

(the restaurant has gold throughout it); as a<br />

homonym implying "all things guilty" (guilty<br />

pleasures); a female baby pig (pork being a<br />

staple and base of their cooking) and as a<br />

synonym for premium.<br />

Expect pleasant surprises.<br />

Gilt Restaurant<br />

305 King Street West, Kitchener<br />

giltrestaurant.ca<br />

519-954-6100<br />

sunday to wednesday 11:30 am–10:00 pm<br />

thursday to saturday 11:30 am–late<br />

<strong>Eatdrink</strong> Food Editor and Writer at Large, BRYAN<br />

LAVERY brings years of experience in the restaurant<br />

and hospitality industry, as a chef, restaurateur and<br />

consultant. Always on the lookout for the stories that<br />

<strong>Eatdrink</strong> should be telling, he helps shape the magazine<br />

both under his byline and behind the scenes.<br />

Sample delicious local eats,<br />

meet inspiring producers and<br />

marvel at the tempting array<br />

of fresh and artisanal edibles.<br />

From farm to table, pork to pies<br />

to pints, discover more<br />

in Perth County!<br />

restaurants<br />

farm gates<br />

food shops<br />

Find us, follow us!<br />

#DiscoverMore #PerthCounty<br />

@PerthCoTourism<br />


10 |<strong>August</strong>/<strong>September</strong> <strong>2018</strong><br />

Restaurants<br />

Ramen Renaissance<br />

Crafty Ramen in Guelph<br />

eatdrink.ca |@eatdrinkmag<br />


The idea of ramen has captured the popular<br />

culinary imagination. But the Japanese bowl<br />

of noodles, meats, vegetables and a soulsoothing<br />

broth isn’t as widely available in<br />

<strong>Waterloo</strong> Region and <strong>Wellington</strong> County as is, say, pho,<br />

the Vietnamese soup. Unless you consider the throngs<br />

of soup-slurpers who descend on tiny Crafty Ramen in<br />

downtown Guelph.<br />

The Macdonell Street restaurant, a diminutive 500<br />

square-foot space of repurposed workshop benches and<br />

old school floors, conjures images of the joints that the<br />

late Anthony Bourdain trekked to in his explorations<br />

of food and its cultural and sociological idiosyncrasies.<br />

The noodle shop is first-to-market in Guelph, and many<br />

other places nearby, too. Ten or so stools and a few<br />

tables — only 26 seats — provide for about 130 people<br />

a day. “The busiest day was about 280 bowls,” says<br />

co-owner Jared Ferrall. “It’s hotter weather now and<br />

the students are gone, but we still do good numbers.”<br />

Summer heat has prompted the appearance of four<br />

new cold bowls on the menu: a classic Hiyashi Chuka,<br />

a summer broth popular throughout Japan, and three<br />

Mazemen ramen of yuzu chicken, vegan sesame, and<br />

pulled pork with onsen tamago (soft-cooked egg). “We<br />

are making a different thicker noodle for these, that has<br />

more chew to it,” says Jared.<br />

Crafty Ramen opened in February 2017. The<br />

restaurant is the culmination of the efforts of an<br />

industrious pair: Jared and Miki Ferrall. The couple<br />

met in Vancouver. Jared, originally from England,

<strong>Eatdrink</strong>: The Local Food & Drink Magazine<br />

was doing his apprenticeship and Miki, from<br />

Iwate in northern Japan, and who had got<br />

her first job in a ramen shop at age 16, was<br />

working. “She was learning English, and I was<br />

doing my Red Seal,” Jared says. Since then,<br />

they’ve travelled the world. They spent four<br />

years exploring the food in Japan: Jared did<br />

some time in Ramsay and Ducasse kitchens<br />

in Tokyo; they both attended Yamato Ramen<br />

School. Having absorbed Japan and toyed<br />

with the idea (coming very close to sealing<br />

the deal) of opening a food catering van in<br />

Tokyo, they ended up in Guelph, where they<br />

share responsibilities for operating Crafty<br />

Ramen. The name has a whimsical quality,<br />

Jared acknowledges. “It just seemed to fit. We<br />

wanted to stay playful but highlight that what<br />

we do is crafted.”<br />

Crafty is simple too, he adds. “People come<br />

in, order, pay, sit down, eat, and leave.” That’s<br />

part and parcel of the rogue element in the<br />

sociology of ramen shops. “While there’s a lot<br />

of ramen in the Toronto area, there is nothing<br />

like this here… We’re in the tradition of a<br />

true ramen shop that’s innovative and chefdriven.<br />

Each wants to use the ingredients of<br />

the particular region. Actually, it’s the rogues<br />

of society in Japan that open up ramen shops.<br />

Everyone wants to do it their own way and<br />

has their own secret ingredients. That’s our<br />

style too. We don’t have seafood, for instance,<br />

and we use local producers for meats and<br />

vegetables. That’s our way.” Certainly driven<br />

by local ingredients, Crafty is no-frills,<br />

allowing staff to focus on food prep rather<br />

than running dishes to tables. You order up<br />

front and sit at a stool, and, actually, the space<br />

is larger than restaurants in Japan, says Jared.<br />

“There, you basically walk into a vending<br />

machine to buy a ticket.”<br />

The noodles you’re eating at Crafty come<br />

from a clunky-looking noodle machine<br />

imported from Shinagawa, Tokyo. “The<br />

machines are a really cool little business,”<br />

Jared says of the green contraption. “A father<br />

and son make them. You visit and they put<br />

it together for you.” With the machine they<br />

make thin noodles, and occasionally fat ones<br />

for specials, but there is not a wide range: the<br />

philosophy is to do a few things very well. They<br />

blend Canadian all-purpose flour and a hard<br />

bread flour from K2 Mill (a 126-year-old milling<br />

operation in Beeton, Ontario, northeast of<br />

Orangeville), which, he says, is a strong and<br />

flavourful flour. The other key to great ramen<br />

is potassium carbonate and sodium carbonate<br />




WIN<br />

A GUIDED<br />

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FOR 4 PEOPLE.<br />


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12 |<strong>August</strong>/<strong>September</strong> <strong>2018</strong><br />

eatdrink.ca |@eatdrinkmag<br />

(kansui, or lye water) — essential for a proper<br />

ramen noodle. “The alkalinity keeps the noodles<br />

from getting soft in the broth. It’s just wheat, water,<br />

kansui and salt.” The proof is often in the broth and<br />

rogues need not apply there. All the broths are made<br />

in-house and for assistance with that Crafty turns to<br />

neighbouring Trotter’s Butcher Shop for duck bones,<br />

pork bones and smoked pork trotters. The restaurant<br />

uses a reverse osmosis process to extract maximum<br />

flavour in making the broths.<br />

Good ramen combines noodles, broth, fat,<br />

toppings and tare, an ingredient that contains soy<br />

sauce, miso or black vinegar. That tare, a flavour<br />

base ingredient, brings saltiness to ramen along<br />

with added umami, and a touch of sweet, sour, or<br />

spice depending on its composition. There can be a<br />

dozen or more ingredients, which means gigantic<br />

flavour. You might notice a dollop of it go into the<br />

bottom of your bowl in ramen shops. Such tradition<br />

is good, and the process is complex: days of brining<br />

and simmering kombu, first in 60-degree water for<br />

an hour to infuse seaweed flavour; then the kombu<br />

is removed and shiitakes are introduced for an hour<br />

before cherry tomatoes get their hour. It takes time<br />

and training to hit the correct flavour notes.<br />

“The most popular ramen has been the Meat<br />

Lovers,” Jared says. That’s pork three ways with a<br />

side of tender chicken: pork jowl, pork chashu and<br />

salt- and sugar-cured pulled pork shoulder with<br />

12-hour brined and one-hour 73-degree sous-vide<br />

chicken breast. “We use modern techniques, though<br />

we’re not modernist cuisine. Just good food,” he<br />

says. There are also green onion, pickled shiitakes<br />

and burnt sesame oil in a rich chicken, pork, and<br />

duck broth. There’s a spicy vegan tofu mapo ramen<br />

with baby bok choy, sesame tare and vegetable<br />

broth. Also on the menu is a delicate and light gyoza<br />

snack that is packed with big flavour. It’s a specialty<br />

of Miki’s and a family recipe that she has been<br />

making since she was quite young. Her karaage,<br />

Japanese fried chicken, is delicious as well and is<br />

from a family recipe: crunchy outside and tender<br />

and moist inside with a terrific crispy kimchi mayo.<br />

The dish contains chicken thighs marinated in soy,<br />

ginger and garlic for two hours. The marinade then<br />

becomes the liquid for the potato starch-corn starch<br />

batter for those little crispy bits on the outside. The<br />

dipping sauce is a Kewpie mayo, with crispy bits.<br />

And yet it’s not authentic, Ferrall is quick to<br />

stress, citing a simple fact that people forget when<br />

looking for “authenticity” — after all, we’re 10,000<br />

kilometers from Japan. Make it as authentic as<br />

possible, though: slurp the noodles and do it<br />

quickly. There’s a practical reason for this: the quick<br />

and simultaneous aspiration of air with the thin<br />

noodles captures the broth so it doesn’t fall away.

<strong>Eatdrink</strong>: The Local Food & Drink Magazine<br />

Sip. Savour. Stroll.<br />

Soak up the sun and<br />

experience the warm lake<br />

breeze on one of Elgin’s<br />

many outdoor patios.<br />

SoLo on Main<br />

As the two-year mark for the business<br />

approaches, the Ferralls say they’re looking<br />

for a venue to open another Crafty Ramen —<br />

possibly in Kitchener — but they have to be<br />

sure they can address properly the details of<br />

a dish, from the noodles to the broth to the<br />

meats and seasoning.<br />

Small may be traditional, but that doesn’t<br />

make it easy. Ramen expectations, though<br />

there are relatively few local examples, are<br />

high when it comes to deliciousness framed<br />

within the right atmosphere and ambiance<br />

of the restaurant. Currently, they’ve hit the<br />

mark, he acknowledges. “It’s a successful<br />

model for business, but we still have to strive<br />

for really good food at a reasonable price.”<br />

Crafty Ramen<br />

17 Macdonell Street, Guelph<br />

info@craftyramen.com<br />

519-824-8330<br />

sunday–monday: closed<br />

tuesday–thursday: 11:30 am–9 pm<br />

friday–saturday: 11:30 am–9:30 pm<br />

ANDREW COPPOLINO is a Kitchener-based writer<br />

and broadcaster. He is publisher of <strong>Waterloo</strong> Region Eats<br />

(waterlooregioneats.com) a longstanding online resource<br />

dedicated to food, dining, restaurants, chefs, sustainability<br />

and agriculture. Andrew also serves as a regional<br />

<strong>Eatdrink</strong> Editorial Consultant.<br />

Windjammer Inn<br />

Kettle Creek Inn<br />

Visit savourelgin.ca<br />

to plan your next<br />

culinary adventure in<br />

Elgin County!

14 |<strong>August</strong>/<strong>September</strong> <strong>2018</strong><br />

eatdrink.ca |@eatdrinkmag<br />

Sponsored By<br />

Road Trips<br />

Stratford’s Gastro Scene<br />

Where to Eat and Drink in <strong>2018</strong><br />


Renowned for its annual Shakespeare<br />

Festival, its gastro scene and<br />

hometown boy Justin Bieber, Stratford<br />

is anything but a quiet little town.<br />

Over the past couple of decades, Stratford’s<br />

been building a reputation as an innovational,<br />

entrepreneurial culinary destination.<br />

This year there are new kids on the culinary<br />

scene like Planet Diner and The Common.<br />

York Street Kitchen was purchased by the<br />

Windsor Hospitality Group and has moved<br />

back to a larger revitalized space on York<br />

Street, previously occupied by the former<br />

Linleys Food Shop. Founder Susie Palach will<br />

be sorely missed. Edison’s Café Bar, where all<br />

food is prepared in-house using fresh, organic<br />

ingredients, has become a charming hub.<br />

While you are in the area be sure to explore<br />

the bucolic countryside in and around Perth<br />

and Oxford Counties. Take in the small towns<br />

of St Marys, Shakespeare, Woodstock and<br />

New Hamburg. Drop by the Stratford Tourism<br />

Alliance for tickets to self-guided culinary<br />

tours like the Bacon & Ale Trail and Chocolate<br />

Trail, which are available all year round.<br />

Stratford is awash with culinary “hubs”<br />

where locals, visitors, chefs, farmers, artists and<br />

Planet Diner<br />

Stratford Chefs School’s annual Long Table Dinner, 2017<br />

artisans gather, such as Market Square, Your<br />

Local Market Co-op, the Local Community Food<br />

Centre, Stratford Farmers’ Market at the Agriplex<br />

(on Saturdays) and the Slow Food Farmers’<br />

Market (on Sundays). There are many great<br />

retailers like Bradshaws Kitchen Detail, Downie<br />

Street Bakehouse (“Really Good Bread from the<br />

Wrong Side of the Tracks”), Watson’s Chelsea<br />

Bazaar and the Milky Whey Fine Cheese Shop.<br />

Windsor Hospitality Group’s Executive Chef<br />

Ryan O’Donnell is excited about the synergies<br />

the culinary team is creating with The Prune,<br />

Bar One Fifty One, Mercer Kitchen and York<br />

Street Kitchen, and how they help create<br />

better and better food. “This flexibility to<br />

react to the best products, as well as synergies<br />

between all our restaurants in Stratford, will<br />

be the most exciting part of the new Prune in<br />

my opinion,” says O’Donnell.<br />

Anne Campion’s Revel on Market Square is a<br />

favourite go-to for a cup of Las Chicas del Café<br />

coffee, sourced from the owners’ family-run<br />

farm in the Nicaraguan rainforest. We love the<br />

custom-made communal table. On Downie<br />

Street The Pulp, Stratford’s plant-based “fresh<br />

bar,” features cold-pressed juice, smoothies and<br />

clean eating with vegan and gluten- and dairyfree<br />

options. Grounded is a newer business,

<strong>Eatdrink</strong>: The Local Food & Drink Magazine<br />

<strong>August</strong>/<strong>September</strong> <strong>2018</strong> | 15<br />

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generation of Lexus ES arrives in <strong>September</strong>.<br />




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519 748-9668 | HEFFNERLEXUS.CA

eatdrink.ca |@eatdrinkmag<br />

Chef Jamie Crosby (right) of The Prune<br />

What’s Your Flavour?<br />

Amaretto<br />

Cherry<br />

Follow us to see what’s fresh today!<br />

Fresh & Frozen<br />

Eat-In or Take-Out<br />

45+ Soup Flavours<br />

Vegan, Dairy Free &<br />

Gluten Free Options<br />

No additives or<br />

preservatives<br />

Tuesday–Friday 11–6 • Saturday 11–4<br />

Sunday 10–2 at Stratford Slow Food Market<br />

98 <strong>Wellington</strong> St., Stratford 519.497.5167<br />

soupsurreal.com<br />

creating fresh, healthy, plant-based food using<br />

whole ingredients. At the time of writing,<br />

Grounded is set to open a storefront on Erie St.<br />

Shakespeare Brewing Company is the<br />

newest craft brewer in the area, and uses<br />

100% local ingredients. The owners believe the<br />

local terroir is reflected in the flavours of their<br />

craft beers. Black Swan Brewing Company<br />

continues to create innovative seasonal<br />

flavours in addition to the core products: EPA,<br />

IPA and porter. You might want to sample the<br />

refreshing Raspberry Wild Child, made in the<br />

German sour beer style.<br />

After 30 years, Chef Bryan Steele has<br />

left The Prune. He continues to be a senior<br />

cookery instructor at Stratford Chefs School.<br />

Lamentably, Rundles and Monforte on<br />

<strong>Wellington</strong> are gone. Here are a few of my<br />

recommendations, in alphabetical order, of<br />

where to eat and drink in <strong>2018</strong>.<br />

Bar One Fifty One at The Prune has a relaxed<br />

and elegant vibe, the perfect backdrop for<br />

signature cocktails and a varied wine list.<br />

This season the focus is on seafood with an<br />

emphasis on small plates and raw bar offerings.<br />

Bubbles and Oysters anyone? 151 Albert Street,<br />

519-271-5052, theprune.ca /bar-one-fifty-one<br />

Bijou’s farm-to-table blackboard pre-theatre<br />

dinner menu is prix fixe. Mark and Linda<br />

Simone purchased the legacy restaurant four<br />

years ago, and added a new entrance off of<br />

<strong>Wellington</strong> Street and a small bar in the front<br />

area. Chef Roddy Eastman and his team also<br />

offer a globally-inspired tapas bar menu of<br />

small plates (available after 7: 30 p.m., 7:45<br />

p.m. Friday and Saturday). 105 Erie Street,<br />

(2nd entrance off of <strong>Wellington</strong> Street), 519-<br />

273-5000, bijourestaurant.com

<strong>Eatdrink</strong>: The Local Food & Drink Magazine<br />

The Bruce is at the high end of the dining<br />

spectrum. Chef Arron Carley, sous chef<br />

Christopher Howard and pastry chef Erin<br />

Negus define “New Canadiana” by using only<br />

ingredients found in Canada, enhanced by<br />

produce from their own farm and gardens.<br />

Prix fixe menus (3-courses for $95.00 with a<br />

<strong>August</strong>/<strong>September</strong> <strong>2018</strong> | 17<br />

celebrating 122 years in stratford<br />

The Bruce<br />

$45.00 optional wine pairing) or the avantgarde<br />

“Fauna” tasting menu (7-courses for<br />

$115.00 with a $65.00 optional wine pairing)<br />

are laden with ingredients which the term<br />

“New Canadiana” evokes. Breakfast, lunch and<br />

Sunday brunch are à la carte, and The Lounge<br />

offers a separate menu. There is a stylish<br />

courtyard for al fresco dining. 89 Parkview<br />

Drive, 855-708-7100, thebruce.ca<br />

The Common is located in the refurbished<br />

space previously occupied by Monforte on <strong>Wellington</strong>.<br />

Chef Tim Otsuki offers a mix of global<br />

comfort food. Think, Imam Bayildi stuffed<br />

roasted eggplant with sweet onions, peppers,<br />

spicy chickpeas, rice pilaf and house yogurt; or<br />

Hot Spatchcock Chicken Sandwich with bread<br />

pudding stuffing and gravy; or Roast Hoisin<br />

Pork Tenderloin<br />

with Szechuan stirfry<br />

vegetables on<br />

The Common<br />

steamed rice pilaf.<br />

The tagline is “Eat<br />

Without Borders.”<br />

There is a newly<br />

appointed patio for<br />

outdoor drinking<br />

and dining. 80 <strong>Wellington</strong><br />

Street, 519-<br />

271-0999, thecommonstratford.com<br />

Foster’s Inn is<br />

Stratford’s original<br />

heritage boutique<br />

inn, situated in a

18 |<strong>August</strong>/<strong>September</strong> <strong>2018</strong><br />

um<br />

A restaurant inspired by<br />

local ingredients.<br />

Run by workers.<br />

Owned by workers.<br />

Shared by the Community.<br />

eatdrink.ca |@eatdrinkmag<br />

um<br />

7 Days a Week<br />

Reservations Recommended<br />

64 <strong>Wellington</strong> St, Stratford<br />

redrabbitresto.com<br />

519.305.6464<br />

@redrabbitresto<br />

global tapas with local ingredients<br />

fresh cocktails<br />

Perfect for dinner before or snacks after the show<br />

Wednesday–Sunday from 5pm<br />

85 Downie St, Stratford<br />

(next to Avon Theatre)<br />

519.305.8585<br />

85Downie.com<br />

Foster’s Inn<br />

turn-of-the-century building two doors from the<br />

Avon Theatre off of Market Square. Restaurateur<br />

Craig Foster prides himself on the authenticity<br />

of the hospitality and service. The inn features<br />

nine individually-appointed guest rooms, a<br />

restaurant, and a tiny cocktail bar. Foster’s is a<br />

go-to for mouth-watering char-grilled steaks and<br />

burgers as well as re-imagined comfort foods<br />

made with local ingredients. There is a House<br />

Cured and Cold-Smoked Pork Tenderloin and a<br />

Coconut Green Curry Tofu. 111 Downie Street,<br />

519-271-1119, fostersinn.com<br />

This season Mercer Kitchen + Beer Hall +<br />

Hotel has some great new menu items, while<br />

retaining some tried and true signatures. The<br />

casual brasserie-style ambience is inspired by the<br />

concept of izakaya — informal Japanese beer<br />

pubs. There are 15 draft lines and over 120 bottles,<br />

including international award-winners and<br />

hard-to-find one-offs. Menus showcase items<br />

that are meant to<br />

be shared communally<br />

and are<br />

perfect for the<br />

lively, dynamic<br />

atmosphere.<br />

Try the House-<br />

Smoked Salmon<br />

Board with<br />

herbed chèvre,<br />

red onion, fried<br />

capers and roe, or<br />

a choice of Banh<br />

Mi, or Korean<br />

Mercer Kitchen<br />

BBQ-glazed Crispy Chicken Rice Bowl. 104-108<br />

Ontario Street, 519-271-9202, mercerhall.ca<br />

The Mill Stone features a globally-inspired<br />

all-day menu, bolstered by a rotating selection<br />

of feature dishes that focus on light and<br />

healthy fare with plant-based and gluten-free<br />

options. New this year is a nose-to-tail feature<br />

that explores the hidden gems of whole<br />

animal butchery. Sweetbreads, chicken hearts

<strong>Eatdrink</strong>: The Local Food & Drink Magazine<br />

<strong>August</strong>/<strong>September</strong> <strong>2018</strong> | 19<br />

“A fun place to shop<br />

for housewares and gifts!”<br />

Create a completely original tablescape<br />

every time by mixing and matching<br />

blue and white patterns.<br />

Classically Beautiful.<br />

The Mill Stone<br />

and cod tongues are some of the dishes in<br />

store. This high-energy bistro features locallybrewed<br />

beer on tap and a varied bottle list,<br />

with a focus on Canadian wines and a refined<br />

international selection. Ontario Street, 519-<br />

273-5886, themillstone.ca<br />

Okazu 85 Downie is Stratford’s hot spot<br />

for delicious chef-inspired cuisine and is the<br />

perfect after theatre or late-night stop. Stop<br />

by for dinner<br />

to taste global<br />

fusion prepared<br />

with local<br />

inspiration,<br />

or for fresh<br />

cocktails like<br />

the Yuzu Sour<br />

or Mermaid<br />

Margarita,<br />

shaken or<br />

Okazu 85 Downie<br />

stirred by the<br />

fabulous staff<br />

until the early<br />

hours. Chef de cuisine Angela Murphy and Ben<br />

O’Brien spin a modern twist on dim sum and<br />

tapas featuring items like rustic-style Perth<br />

pork paté with fruit chutney; spice-rubbed<br />

pork belly with sticky rice; and potato curry<br />

with roasted cauliflower, house masala, pickled<br />

greens and lentil salad. 85 Downie Street, 519-<br />

305-8585, OkazuSnackBar.com<br />

Pazzo Taverna and Pizzeria. The street-level<br />

taverna offers rustic Italian-inspired cuisine<br />

in a contemporary setting overlooking the<br />

Avon River. The pizzeria, located in the historic<br />

building's cellar, is renowned for its buildyour-own<br />

thin crust pizza. Chef Yva Santini is<br />

celebrating her eleventh season at the 21-year-old<br />

restaurant. All of the incredible pastas are made<br />

in-house. Santini showcases simple, natural<br />

flavours of locally-sourced meats and produce in<br />

the Italian tradition, combined with a diverse list<br />

of Canadian and imported wines by the glass and<br />

bottle. There is a charming street-side patio. 70<br />

Ontario Street, 519-273-6666, pazzo.ca<br />

WATSON’S<br />


84 Ontario St. Stratford<br />

watsonsofstratford.com<br />

519-273-1790<br />

The Ultimate Family Fun Weekend<br />

Ontario Garlic & Artisan Market<br />

featuring over 60 vendors<br />

• Exclusive Tastings pairing artisanal<br />

cheeses with wines, beers and spirits<br />

• Cooking Demonstrations<br />

• Educational Forums<br />

• Live Entertainment<br />

<strong>September</strong> 8th & 9th<br />

Stratford Rotary Complex, 353 McCarthy Road<br />

Admission $10/day or $15 for 2-day pass<br />

Children 12 & under free<br />

Free parking and bike valet service

20 |<strong>August</strong>/<strong>September</strong> <strong>2018</strong><br />

The Planet Diner, with candy-apple red<br />

upholstered booths and 50s vibe, is warm<br />

and welcoming with enthusiastic and wellinformed<br />

staff. Owner Dee Christensen says,<br />

“This is where herbivores can bring their<br />

carnivore friends.” Most items on the menu<br />

are derived from plant-based foods, with a<br />

few meat-based options. There’s just nothing<br />

like the Chick’un burger made in-house with<br />

vegan buffalo butter. Try the cashew-based<br />

banana split, bound to be a hit with die-hard<br />

ice cream lovers. 118 Downie Street, 519-305-<br />

5888, theplanetdiner.com<br />

The Prune has been a Stratford favourite since<br />

1977. Chef de cuisine Jamie Crosby is leading<br />

the culinary team. He was formerly chef de<br />

Cuisine at The Little Inn in Bayfield, and most<br />

recently chef de partie at restaurateur Jenn<br />

Agg’s Grey Gardens in Toronto. Crosby and<br />

sous chef Mike Booth are planning on keeping<br />

the menu fluid this season by changing it daily,<br />

if necessary, to showcase the best of Perth<br />

County’s bounty as it arrives at the kitchen<br />

door. There is a prix fixe menu, offering three<br />

courses for $79.00 or four courses for $89.00<br />

or a six-course “Carte Blanche” for $109.00.<br />

Wine pairing packages are available. 151 Albert<br />

Street, 519-271-5052, theprune.com<br />

Raja Fine Indian Cuisine<br />

Raja Fine Indian Cuisine is the definitive<br />

place for authentic Northern Indian food in<br />

Stratford. Raja offers upscale Indian cuisine<br />

in sophisticated and elegant surroundings,<br />

and knowledgeable, well-trained staff. The<br />

service is white linen, deferential and friendly.<br />

Foods are prepared from scratch with fresh<br />

ingredients. The heat quotient of dishes can<br />

be adjusted to guest preferences. Raja offers<br />

milder Indian fare such as Butter Chicken,<br />

Korma, and Tikka Masala. 10 George Street<br />

West, 519-271-3271, rajastratford.ca<br />

The Red Rabbit. “A locally sourced<br />

restaurant, run by workers, owned by<br />

eatdrink.ca |@eatdrinkmag<br />

The Red Rabbit<br />

workers, shared by the community,” sums up<br />

the three-year-old resto’s ethos. Jonathan<br />

Naiman is now the head chef with Sean<br />

Collins overseeing the kitchen as executive<br />

chef. Chef Collins terms the cooking at Red<br />

Rabbit as “flavour first, ingredient driven,”<br />

and his motto is, “We cook food we like to<br />

eat.” The team has crafted an evolving menu<br />

of well-executed comfort foods. The fixed price<br />

menu returns for pre-theatre dining Tuesday<br />

to Saturday, 5-7 p.m., with the “After 7” menu<br />

available from 7:30 p.m. onward Thursday<br />

to Saturday evenings. The Red Rabbit is<br />

known for Colonel Collins fried chicken and<br />

waffles (available at lunch). Its secret recipe<br />

of thirteen herbs and spices, maple syrup<br />

and carrot hot sauce has made it a Stratford<br />

culinary staple. 64 <strong>Wellington</strong> Street, 519-305-<br />

6464, redrabbitresto.com<br />

Revival House and The Belfry is Stratford’s<br />

home for live music, dining and events, and<br />

it continues to play host to many touring and<br />

local Canadian artists throughout the summer<br />

season. Chef Loreena Miller and culinary team<br />

are passionate about creating and serving<br />

foods that express the depth of Perth County’s<br />

food culture. Recent menus have revived<br />

French-Canadian style cuisine, with an added<br />

modern sensibility. Upstairs, The Belfry<br />

features a 60-seat gastro-lounge and a VIP<br />

balcony called Confession. There is a 48-seat<br />

garden terrace-oasis beside the Brunswick<br />

Revival House

<strong>Eatdrink</strong>: The Local Food & Drink Magazine<br />

Street entrance. High Tea and Sunday Brunch<br />

add another layer of temptation to the<br />

offerings. 70 Brunswick Street, 519-273-3424,<br />

revival.house<br />

Romeos Corner Café, a friendly, familyoperated<br />

restaurant, features comfortable<br />

booths and tables and is within walking<br />

distance of the Festival Theatre. There is<br />

Romeos Corner Café<br />

an extensive breakfast menu with omelets,<br />

skillets and a “Benvolio Benny” with<br />

mushrooms, spinach and caramelized onions.<br />

A menu of elevated comfort foods is also<br />

offered for lunch and dinner including savoury<br />

Chicken Pot Pie, Ontario grass-fed Beef<br />

<strong>August</strong>/<strong>September</strong> <strong>2018</strong> | 21<br />

Burgers and Mac N Cheese. There are some<br />

tables for outdoor dining. 584 Ontario Street,<br />

519-272-2777<br />

York Street Kitchen is Stratford’s<br />

quintessential sandwich shop and has been<br />

a local institution since 1989. This popular<br />

diner and takeaway offer fabulous build<br />

your own “Show Stoppers” sandwiches. Try<br />

“The Mennonite” sandwich with Bauman’s<br />

Summer Sausage, honey mustard, mayo,<br />

cheddar, corn relish, lettuce and tomato on<br />

sourdough bread. Other options include<br />

“Not Sandwiches”, “Swell Sides” and housemade<br />

“Sweets”. The YSK’s famous take-out<br />

window is perfect for your picnic in the<br />

park. New location is in the former Linleys<br />

Food Shop at 51 York Street, 519-273-7041,<br />

yorkstreetkitchen.com<br />

<strong>Eatdrink</strong> Food Editor and Writer at Large, BRYAN<br />

LAVERY brings years of experience in the restaurant<br />

and hospitality industry, as a chef, restaurateur and<br />

consultant. Always on the lookout for the stories that<br />

<strong>Eatdrink</strong> should be telling, he helps shape the magazine<br />

both under his byline and behind the scenes.<br />



Stratford<br />

10 George St. W.<br />

519-271-3271<br />

Kitchener<br />

725 Belmont Ave. W.<br />

519-208-2811<br />


22 |<strong>August</strong>/<strong>September</strong> <strong>2018</strong><br />

eatdrink.ca |@eatdrinkmag<br />

The BUZZ<br />

Culinary Community Notes<br />

New and Notable<br />


This column consists of regional culinary<br />

information, including a large scoop<br />

of local news and inside information.<br />

There is no charge to be included here,<br />

and we encourage chefs, restaurateurs, brewers,<br />

fundraisers, culinary artisans, farmers — and<br />

everyone else with information to share — to send<br />

us details. Short and sweet! We want to include as<br />

many items as possible. See the end of this column<br />

for contact details.<br />

Kitchener<br />

Since 1969, Kitchener-<strong>Waterloo</strong> Oktoberfest has<br />

developed its own traditions, becoming the largest<br />

Bavarian festival in North America with the greatest<br />

Thanksgiving Day Parade in Canada. Thousands<br />

of visitors celebrate annually in our Festhallen,<br />

and by attending one or more of our 40 family<br />

and cultural events. Through the celebration of<br />

this spirit of Gemuetlichkeit, the local economy<br />

is stimulated and over 70 charities and not-forprofit<br />

organizations raise funds to support the<br />

high quality of life enjoyed in Kitchener-<strong>Waterloo</strong>.<br />

Tickets for the 50th Anniversary event (October<br />

5–13) are on sale now. oktoberfest.ca<br />

The King-Scott area of downtown Kitchener has<br />

seen several changes in the food landscape of late.<br />

With its low-profile geography, Stonegate Bistro,<br />

located in the subterranean depths of Scott Street<br />

between Duke and King, has closed. The venue had<br />

something of a loyal following and the occasion<br />

to prepare a culinary throwback, whether ironic<br />

or not, every now and then: cedar-plank salmon.<br />

A cryptic sign on the restaurant door says a new<br />

restaurant will be “opening soon,” in typical<br />

restaurant-speak.<br />

At street level and right on top of the former<br />

Stonegate is Elevenses on Scott (elevensesonscott.<br />

com), a café, lunch stop and snack shop that has<br />

recently changed hands. 519-579-7661<br />

Just around the corner on King Street, Sahar<br />

Kitchen Indian has taken over space vacated by the<br />

Korean restaurant Shinla Garden. A few blocks west<br />

is Izna Japanese Donburi House, which at the time<br />

of writing was close to opening.<br />

Legacy Greens is moving to Ontario Street between<br />

Duke and King, helping create a little food hub<br />

for a block or two. It started as a fall and pre-<br />

Christmas “pop-up” greens shop, but its immediate<br />

popularity prompted owner Jordan Dolson to stay<br />

open year-round. Dolson says the move is exciting.<br />

“We had the opportunity to purchase the property<br />

and renovate it to our needs,” Dolson says. The<br />

re-location gave Legacy the chance to build an<br />

accessible entrance and a bifold door to create<br />

both “an outdoor feel” and street-merchandising<br />

opportunity. There’s also a commercial kitchen<br />

in the new space. “For the most part,” Dolson<br />

adds, “we have all the same products and same<br />

prices, but we now have the building block in<br />

place to grow our prepared food options and<br />

retail sales.” That makes it another great addition<br />

to the growing downtown Kitchener food scene.<br />

legacygreensonline.com/<br />

Nearby, Mark’s Caribbean Kitchen and Seafood<br />

has opened at 20 King Street East, a venue for<br />

restaurants that dates to the 1990s. Mark’s is<br />

virtually directly across the street from Rainbow<br />

Caribbean, long a popular place for patties and<br />

other Jamaican fare. A blend of cultures, the kitchen<br />

prepares both a $13 fish and chips and a $36 surf and<br />

turf with lobster. markscaribbeankitchen.ca<br />

The popular Relish Cooking Studio, formerly on<br />

Regina Street in Uptown <strong>Waterloo</strong>, has moved to<br />

90 Victoria Street North in Kitchener in the same<br />

plaza as Cake Box. A kitchen store and culinary<br />

education facility with regular cooking classes (for<br />

summer classes sign up online) and guest chefs,<br />

Relish is owned and operated by Donna-Marie Pye<br />

and Maria Burjoski. Incidentally, the kitchen from<br />

their Regina Street facility is for sale, with asking<br />

price $5,000.<br />

A few blocks away at The Tannery, Balzac’s Coffee<br />

Roasters, with several locations in southwestern

<strong>Eatdrink</strong>: The Local Food & Drink Magazine<br />

Ontario including <strong>Waterloo</strong>, has re-modelled and<br />

re-envisioned the décor in their store neighbouring<br />

Communitech. Balzac’s owner Diane Olsen says<br />

they brightened up the space and are better set<br />

up to hold events and a variety of functions. That<br />

makes it a good place to enjoy their nitro cold brew<br />

coffee (a partnership with Toronto’s Junction Craft<br />

Brewing), on tap and an excellent rich and creamy<br />

sip for the hot summer months. balzacs.com/<br />

locations/kitchener/<br />

Just across the street from the Market and Nova Era<br />

in the new building at the corner of King and Cedar<br />

streets is the awkwardly named Pho Vietnam K &<br />

W. (Along with Salvadoran pupusas, the downtown<br />

has several pho restaurants.) Drop by and say<br />

hello: there’s no phone number or website readily<br />

available yet.<br />

Joining the bevy of international food vendors<br />

upstairs at the Kitchener Market (300 King<br />

Street East) is Naranj Blossom, a Syrian-Turkish<br />

restaurant serving modern fare serving sweet and<br />

savoury fare. Call 519-573-1353.<br />

In the Belmont-Highland food hub, Muya Ethiopian<br />

restaurant is undergoing renovations and an<br />

expansion to the half-dozen or so tables in its<br />

dining room. muyarestaurant.com<br />

The long-time Weston Bakery outlet store on<br />

Victoria closed on July 20. AM Africa restaurant on<br />

King Street East near Rockway Gardens Kitchener<br />

also closed.<br />

Is this the future of dining out? North America's firstof-its-kind<br />

smart dining experience from Graffiti<br />

Market, Red Circle Coffee Co., Red Circle Brewing<br />

Co., Ignite Restaurant Group and Kodisoft Smart<br />

Dining Tables (a state-of-the-art ordering system)<br />

are introducing a new program. Located in Kitchener<br />

at Catalyst137, the technology accelerator (formerly<br />

a tire warehouse on Glasgow St.) is the world's<br />

largest IoT manufacturing hub. Graffiti Market<br />

began with the goal of fuelling the creative spirit<br />

in its staff, customers and community through a<br />

unique mixture of food, art and technology. As North<br />

America’s first-of-its-kind restaurant, retail market,<br />

microbrewery, coffee roaster and bakery, Graffiti<br />

Market has partnered with Kodisoft, providing<br />

patrons with a unique dining environment and a new<br />

way to discover the Graffiti Market menu featuring<br />

Detroit-style pizza, housemade pasta and rotisserie<br />

chicken. Whether you’re immersed in the interactive<br />

Smart Tables, admiring the murals created by local<br />

artists, or simply enjoying one of the in-house made<br />

Red Circle beers or coffees, you’re sure to experience<br />

something unique. graffitimarket.ca<br />

growers & creators of fine lavender products<br />


Steed & Company Lavender, part of a<br />

45-acre horse farm just outside of Sparta<br />


in our unique handcrafted lavender products<br />

ESCAPE<br />

in the wonderful scent and<br />

calming powers of lavender<br />

519-494-5525<br />

47589 Sparta Line, Sparta<br />

buds@steedandcompany.com<br />

Open Wed–Sat 10-5; Sun 12–4<br />

Mother’s Day to Dec. 19<br />

PLUS June–Labour Day: Tues 10-5<br />

www.steedandcompany.com<br />

Enjoy<br />

Our Annual<br />

Lavender Fairy<br />

Festival<br />

Saturday, Aug. 11<br />

Noon–4pm<br />

Bring<br />

Your Wings!<br />

Farm to table award winning<br />

hand crafted alpine style cheese<br />

Tuesday to Friday 9am–5pm<br />

Saturday 9am–4pm<br />

Stonetown Artisan Cheese<br />

5021 Perth Line 8<br />

St. Marys ON<br />

Gift Baskets &<br />

Gift Boxes<br />

Cheese Trays<br />

Fondue & Raclette<br />

519-229-6856<br />

info@stonetowncheese.com<br />


24 |<strong>August</strong>/<strong>September</strong> <strong>2018</strong><br />

Carly Blasutt and Ryan Murphy’s new iteration<br />

of Public Kitchen & Bar is a stylish independently<br />

owned restaurant in one of Kitchener’s oldest<br />

neighborhoods. They take pride in creating<br />

delicious small, shareable plates and well-crafted<br />

cocktails. They also offer new and old world wines<br />

and an all-Ontario craft beer list at reasonable<br />

prices. kwpublic.com<br />

Jill and Mica Sadler had a vision to create a socially<br />

vibrant dining experience where people could come<br />

together, enjoy great beer, wine, share charcuterie<br />



We specialize in bringing Southern hospitality<br />

and our award-winning food to your special<br />

occasion.<br />


Our upstairs event space,<br />

The Lanc Loft, features a<br />

full bar, separate washrooms,<br />

PA system, tables and chairs.<br />

Our fully-mobile food truck has complete<br />

kitchen facilities wherever you need us!<br />


lancsmokehouse.com<br />

574 Lancaster Street West Kitchener ON<br />

Monday–Saturday Open @ 11:30am<br />

Contact our Catering Manager for booking inquiries<br />

519.743.4331 | info@lancsmokehouse.com<br />

eatdrink.ca |@eatdrinkmag<br />

and cheese boards and other locally-sourced eats.<br />

Swine and Vine was born earlier in the year, to<br />

accomplish just that. The charming and updated<br />

premises at 295 Lancaster Street West in Kitchener,<br />

was previously occupied by Public Kitchen & Bar<br />

which has moved a few blocks to Victoria Street.<br />

swineandvine.ca<br />

Unique and delicious, original creations from<br />

master baker Martha Borys, The Lancaster<br />

Co.’s new Crumb Bakehouse offers pies, cakes,<br />

cookies, bars, milk buns, baguettes, beignets,<br />

cornbread, pastries, and breads — both artisan<br />

and rustic, yeast and quick-breads alike. Crumb<br />

Bakehouse currently resides within The Lancaster<br />

Smokehouse, but they have plans to expand the<br />

Bakehouse into its own retail and kitchen space<br />

in the future. lancsmokehouse.com/crumbbakehouse<br />

<strong>Waterloo</strong><br />

Welcome to Meltwich Food Co., <strong>Waterloo</strong>, in the<br />

busy and crowded King-University food hub near<br />

Wilfrid Laurier University. There have been a<br />

couple of grilled cheese shops in the area, and this<br />

one is obviously targetting students. And drawing<br />

on the “Food Co.” Identifier. Pick a sandwich base<br />

and add toppings. There are burgers and Philly<br />

Cheesesteaks too. Cheese and especially Cheddar<br />

plays a big part. meltwich.ca/waterloo/<br />

Also near Laurier, Kitchener’s Metro Restaurant<br />

— long a favourite for schnitzel and Germanic fare<br />

— has taken over Frat Burger, at one time no less<br />

than a Mecca for burger aficionados who loved their<br />

tri-blend of house-ground burger meat that was<br />

cooked a bit pink if you asked for it. The restaurant is<br />

a combination of the two called Metro on King (even<br />

though it is on University Avenue). fratburger.ca<br />

Serving what they describe as 100 per cent plantbased<br />

“power food,” Copper Branch in the heart of<br />

Uptown <strong>Waterloo</strong>, which is really downtown, has<br />

!<br />

da<br />

Windjammer<br />

The<br />

DINE<br />

STAY<br />

Recommended in Where To Eat In Canada for 10 years<br />

Modern Farmhouse Cuisine Wednesday–Sunday<br />

INN<br />

Join us for Dinner & Weekend Brunch<br />

Comfortable Accommodations Year Round<br />

324 Smith St, Port Stanley • 519-782-4173 • www.thewindjammerinn.com

<strong>Eatdrink</strong>: The Local Food & Drink Magazine<br />

been open since early <strong>2018</strong>. “We offer healthy food<br />

that people can feel good about eating and that<br />

tastes great,” says Ashley York, store supervisor.<br />

They serve some playfulness in the form of<br />

zucchini noodles with Sicilian “Coppernata.” Get it?<br />

copperbranch.ca<br />

The appearance of Mashawi <strong>Waterloo</strong> near<br />

Conestoga Mall proves the adage that there is<br />

always room for more shawarma, the ubiquitious<br />

middle eastern roasted meat dish. mashawi.ca<br />

Weber Street Public House, <strong>Waterloo</strong>, has opened<br />

for business, fitting into the former long-time<br />

Benny’s location. Recently, the location at Weber<br />

Street and Lodge was the reappearance of the oncepopular<br />

Mother’s Pizza (which collapsed quickly<br />

after it opened).<br />

Cambridge<br />

In Cambridge — Preston, to be specific — Top<br />

Market Meats has a bricks-and-mortar presence<br />

at 960 King Street East that, while only 650 square<br />

feet, is serving customers a wide selection of<br />

“seasonal goodness,” according to owner and<br />

farmer Leslie Zinger. “It’s everything local: meats,<br />

cheese, eggs, vegetables, fruits, honey, maple syrup<br />

and more.” The selection changes with the seasons,<br />

she adds. “We also work with other local farmers<br />

and online businesses that use Top Market as a<br />

pickup location.” That’s collaborative and smart<br />

business. facebook.com/topmarketmeats/<br />

Nearby at 763 King Street East Cambridge is Wuddup<br />

Dog, a hotdog and sausage joint—what they call<br />

“gourmet street meat”—for dine-in, take-out<br />

and delivery. Needless to say, there are many dog<br />

varieties and fries, onion rings, mac-and-cheese<br />

but also an assortment of deep-fried desserts.<br />

Owner Todd Johns says be on the lookout for them<br />

to be moving to a new location. facebook.com/<br />

wuddupdog/<br />

<strong>August</strong>/<strong>September</strong> <strong>2018</strong> | 25<br />

Guelph & <strong>Wellington</strong> County<br />

A few weeks open and a new Mexican restaurant in<br />

the heart of downtown Guelph is understandably<br />

busy with customers curious about the food. La<br />

Reina — “The Queen” — opened in late June in<br />

the space that was formerly Van Gogh’s Ear at 10<br />

Wyndham Street North. Calling themselves “an<br />

authentic Mexican restaurant,” La Reina draws on<br />

three Mexican-born chefs and serves several familiar<br />

dishes such as flautas, carne asada and ceviche as<br />

well unique dishes such as guajillo-braised lamb<br />

Award Winning<br />

Artisan Cheese<br />

Come Experience Our World!<br />

Visit our cheese shop and sample our<br />

unique handmade cheeses.<br />

See and learn about how cheese is made.<br />

Enjoy the scenery on our 3-generation family farm.<br />

Group tours are available by reservation.<br />

MON-SAT 9-5<br />

445172 Gunn's Hill Rd, Woodstock, ON<br />

519-424-4024<br />

www.gunnshillcheese.ca<br />

Introducing Simple Monthly Meat Delivery.<br />

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(226) 929-1280<br />

trulocal.ca<br />

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26 |<strong>August</strong>/<strong>September</strong> <strong>2018</strong><br />

borrego, braised venison and avocado and a confit<br />

of peaches, according to owner Bryan Steele (not<br />

the Stratford Chefs School Bryan Steele). There’s<br />

also a late-night menu, cocktails and tequila. And<br />

check out the dessert menu: there’s a suggestion to<br />

“Tip the Kitchen” with either Sol or Modelo beer. “I’ve<br />

seen what the kitchen goes through,” says Steele, a<br />

Humber culinary grad. “This is to show appreciation<br />

for what they do.” lareina519.com/<br />

Head over to Carden Street and you’ll find Tomme<br />

Cheese Shop, which opened in late June with a goal<br />

to fill a gap in the fine cheese market in the city.<br />

They’re currently doing that with about 100 cheeses<br />

in stock from local to international. “And we’re not<br />

finished yet,” says owner Andrew Wheeler. He and<br />

his wife Kim Wheeler came to Guelph and fell in<br />

love with the city about eight years ago. “We love<br />

food and asked what do we need here?” Cheese<br />

was the answer. To go with it, there is just about<br />

everything you need for charcuterie boards or a<br />

stand-alone cheese feast. Tomme has partnered<br />

with Guelph businesses Trotter’s Butcher Shop<br />

and Charcuterie and Polestar Hearth Bakery. As<br />

for the name, which denotes an Alpine cheese, “we<br />

just liked the sound of the word,” says Wheeler.<br />

facebook.com/tommecheeseshop/<br />

We send congratulations to Western Burgers<br />

and Steaks in downtown Guelph, who recently<br />

celebrated their fifth anniversary. That’s makes the<br />

traditional gift given wood, fitting for the modernday<br />

saloon in the former Diplomat Hotel from the<br />

19th century. facebook.com/WesternGuelph<br />

The building on the northwest corner of London<br />

and Woolwich roads, the former home of With the<br />

Grain, is in the process of being refurbished by the<br />

Neighbourhood Group of Companies (NGC). The<br />

group behind Borealis in Kitchener and Guelph, The<br />

Wooly Pub and Miijidaa Café & Bistro are set to open<br />

a new restaurant. Going back to square one, Court<br />

Desautels dove into the site’s history, right back to<br />

the 1890s when it was known as Park Grocery. The<br />

crowning achievement for the NGC is it receiving B<br />

Corp Certification in the spring of 2016. The rigorous<br />

process for qualification requires a company to<br />

focus on its staff, the community and the physical<br />

environment rather than solely chasing profits. NGC<br />

is the largest restaurant group in the world to have<br />

achieved B Corp certification.<br />

The Townships & Beyond<br />

For the first time since it opened in 1975, the St.<br />

Jacobs Farmers’ Market was sold to new owners<br />

in the spring. The Shantz family, which owns<br />

Mercedes Corp. together with more than 40 independent<br />

shareholders, sold the market, along with<br />

eatdrink.ca |@eatdrinkmag<br />

several other businesses to the Schlegel family’s<br />

Schlegel Urban Developments. The new Market<br />

owners said it has been a smooth transition. Open<br />

Thursday & Saturday all year around, and Tuesdays<br />

during summer months too (Until <strong>August</strong> 28, <strong>2018</strong>).<br />

stjacobs.com<br />

In honour of the 35th anniversary of Stratford<br />

Chefs School, work is currently underway on Farm<br />

to Table, a cookbook that pairs 25 Stratford Chefs<br />

School alumni chefs with their favourite food<br />

producers and farmers for a culinary adventure<br />

through Perth and Huron Counties. This stunning<br />

book will not only feature recipes from some of<br />

the region’ s most celebrated graduates of the<br />

Stratford Chefs School, but also includes fascinating<br />

interviews with the chefs conducted by CBC food<br />

columnist Andrew Coppolino and striking imagery<br />

provided by photographer and SCS alumna Terry<br />

Manzo. The book will be launched at the School’s<br />

Season Opener in late October.<br />

The Stratford Chefs School’s <strong>2018</strong> Long Table<br />

Dinner is just around the corner, so don’t miss<br />

your opportunity to join a fun and eclectic group<br />

of people for an exceptional outdoor dining<br />

experience set in the heart of Stratford’s heritage<br />

district. Guests gather around one long beautifully<br />

appointed table to enjoy a four-course dinner of<br />

incredible local food complemented by VQA wines.<br />

Participate in the unexpected. Sunday, <strong>September</strong><br />

9, <strong>2018</strong>, Stratford Market Square, $125 per person<br />

($50 tax receipt) stratfordchef.com<br />

Plan to attend the 12th Annual Stratford Kiwanis<br />

Garlic Festival on <strong>September</strong> 8 and 9 at the<br />

Community Hall in The Stratford Rotary Complex.<br />

Raising funds for local community projects and<br />

supporting local garlic growers, The Kiwanis Club<br />

of Stratford once again will deliver a fun family<br />

weekend, complete with an Ontario Garlic & Artisan<br />

Market, cooking demonstrations by professional<br />

chefs, educational forums, live entertainment,<br />

artisanal cheeses and exclusive wine/spirits/beer<br />

pairings and tastings. stratfordgarlicfestival.com<br />

The Appetite for Words Festival program is<br />

a partnership between the Stratford Writers<br />

Festival and the Stratford Chefs School and<br />

features authors who have written about food, and<br />

fiction writers who allow food to become a strong<br />

component of scenes and/or the characters in<br />

their novels. The best part is, chefs and students<br />

from Stratford Chefs School develop and prepare<br />

inspired menus, matching an author’s readings with<br />

appropriate food at literary dinners and lunches,<br />

so you can taste the words you’re hearing. Appetite<br />

for Words revolves around storytelling and is

<strong>Eatdrink</strong>: The Local Food & Drink Magazine<br />

<strong>August</strong>/<strong>September</strong> <strong>2018</strong> | 27<br />

created for the enthusiastic and curious — anyone<br />

interested in reading, discussing and consuming<br />

food (that’s you, right?). Participate in educational<br />

workshops and tasting sessions with some of<br />

Canada’s best food writing talent and build skills<br />

and increase your knowledge of both the culinary<br />

and literary arts. From a literary picnic-style farm<br />

lunch to a food photography workshop, whet your<br />

appetite for literature. stratfordwritersfestival.<br />

com/literary-events/appetite-for-words-festival<br />

Savour Stratford Chocolate Trail — If you’re a<br />

choco-holic this is the trail for you! What could be<br />

better than spending an afternoon (or two) strolling<br />

the Victorian streets of Stratford and sampling<br />

chocolate? The self-guided Chocolate Trail is<br />

offered year-round and can be used at six of the 27<br />

stops. Tickets are just $30 (+HST) and valid for 1<br />

week from the date of purchase. visitstratford.ca/<br />

chocolatetrail<br />

Savour Stratford Bacon and Ale Trail — Bacon and<br />

Ale — two of life’s greatest creations! This selfguided<br />

walking trail includes vouchers that you<br />

can use at 5 stops. Each voucher will entitle you to<br />

a “tasting” of a unique bacon and ale inspired treat<br />

and the chance to speak to Stratford and area’s<br />

culinary stars while visiting unique restaurants and<br />

retail locations. This trail is offered year-round and<br />

is valid for 1 week from the date of purchase ($30<br />

+HST). visitstratford.ca/bacontrail<br />

Honey Meets Blueberries Meets Cheese — Enjoy<br />

free samples and learn at three great locations,<br />

Saturday, <strong>August</strong> 11. Oxford Honey offers honey<br />

sampling and bee-keeping demonstrations<br />

(9am-4pm). Berrylicious Fruit Farm offers<br />

blueberry sampling, and you can pick your own<br />

and learn about berry benefits (Tours 10am & 2pm).<br />

Gunn's Hill Artisan Cheese is sampling Brie with<br />

honey and blueberries, with face painting and live<br />

music. (Tours 11am & 3pm) Sponsored by Oxford<br />

Fresh. tourismoxford.ca<br />

We want your BUZZ!<br />

Do you have culinary news or upcoming events<br />

that you’d like us to share?<br />

Every issue, <strong>Eatdrink</strong> reaches more than<br />

50,000 readers throughout <strong>Waterloo</strong> Region &<br />

<strong>Wellington</strong> County in print,<br />

and thousands more online.<br />

Get in touch with us at editor@eatdrink.ca and/or<br />

connect directly with our Social Media Editor<br />

Bryan Lavery at bryan@eatdrink.ca<br />

Submission deadline for the next issue is Sept. 5.<br />

something<br />

for<br />


Cambridge Farmers’<br />

Market<br />

Saturday Year Round<br />

7:00am - 1:00pm<br />

Wednesday Seasonal Market<br />

8:00am - 1:00pm<br />

June 6 - October 3<br />

www.cambridgefarmersmarket.ca<br />

Lunch<br />

Dinner<br />

Catering<br />

DINNER<br />

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295 Lancaster St. W.<br />

Kitchener<br />


28 |<strong>August</strong>/<strong>September</strong> <strong>2018</strong><br />

Spotlight<br />

A Taste of Place<br />

Taste Detours in Guelph<br />

eatdrink.ca |@eatdrinkmag<br />

Taste Detours highlights Guelph’s<br />

history by mapping it from one<br />

culinary experience to the next,<br />

offering an authentic “taste of place.”<br />

Lynn Broughton, founder of Taste Detours<br />

(tastedetours.ca, 1-866-736-6343), spent<br />

eight years with Downtown<br />

Guelph Business Association,<br />

marketing shops, restaurants<br />

and great events in Guelph’s<br />

downtown core. Taste Detours<br />

evolved from her passion<br />

for the downtown, and a<br />

love of culinary events and<br />

tourism. As a certified Food<br />

Tour Professional, she is a<br />

passionate and knowledgeable<br />

guide with the expertise<br />

and savvy to provide a firstrate<br />

experience. Guelph has<br />

stunning architecture, a<br />

strong cultural fabric and a<br />

rich historical background.<br />

Taste Detours literally tells the city's stories<br />

through food and drink experiences.<br />

On a sunny Friday in July, we spent a day<br />

with Lynn. She arrived with iced lattes from<br />

The Common and perfect mini sausage rolls<br />

from Eric the Baker (who comes from a long<br />

line of Basque pastry chefs). We gathered in<br />

front of the John Galt statue at the historic<br />

Market House and received an interesting<br />

tutorial on John Galt and the historic core of<br />

Guelph. From there, we walked along Carden<br />

Street to the charming Atmosphere Café with<br />

its chill vibe and charming patio. We met<br />

hospitable co-owner Nicole Hogg, who has<br />

operated the café for 14 years, and sampled a<br />

delicious bite and craft beer.<br />

Next, we walked to the steps of the Basilica<br />

of Our Lady Immaculate, which tour-goers<br />

can enter. The monumental church contains<br />

decorative carvings and stained glass executed<br />

by skilled craftsmen. We received a briefing on<br />


Court Desautels & Rebecca Gordon<br />

from Miijidaa Café & Bistro,<br />

with Lynn Broughton<br />

from Taste Detours.<br />

the historical significance of the nearby Albion<br />

Hotel and that part of the tour ended with<br />

a lengthy discussion about the interesting<br />

history of Sleeman’s Brewery.<br />

Our tour continued on to Cork Street and<br />

into Guelph Caribbean Cuisine for a chat<br />

with co-owner Lorenza. We<br />

enjoyed a delectable double<br />

(two pieces of fried dough)<br />

with a sautéed savoury<br />

chickpea and spice mixture<br />

in the centre — the ultimate<br />

Trinidadian street food.<br />

At our next stop, Miijidaa<br />

Café & Bistro (from the<br />

Ojibway language meaning<br />

“let’s eat” or “bon appetit”),<br />

we met Beverage Manager<br />

Rebecca Gordon and Court<br />

Desautels, Group Leader &<br />

CEO of the Neighbourhood<br />

Group of Companies, who<br />

explained their strong<br />

emphasis on Canadian-inspired offerings with<br />

local ingredients. We sampled Welsh Griddle<br />

cakes with wild blueberry preserve and housechurned<br />

butter, as well as piri piri marinated<br />

cauliflower with yogurt blue cheese dip.<br />

We stopped in next door at Refresh Juice<br />

for an invigorating carrot, arugula, lemon and<br />

ginger cold-pressed juice known as the Eye<br />

Opener. The tour wound down at <strong>Wellington</strong><br />

Cakes on charming Douglas Street, where we<br />

savoured a decadent sweet meringue-based<br />

macaron. Owner Anne Forestell is connected<br />

to the early city’s history. Her great-great-greatgreat<br />

grandfather Felix Hanlon was one of the<br />

so-called “27 boys” who accompanied John Galt<br />

to Guelph and helped clear the land that became<br />

the city centre. I felt we'd come full circle.<br />

BRYAN LAVERY is <strong>Eatdrink</strong> Food Editor and Writer at<br />


<strong>Eatdrink</strong>: The Local Food & Drink Magazine<br />

<strong>August</strong>/<strong>September</strong> <strong>2018</strong> | 29<br />

Sandwich Brewing Co. | Windsor<br />

History pours out of this place,<br />

on the Barrels Bottles & Brews Trail.<br />

Uncover behind-the-scenes development and production<br />

of dozens of area distilleries and breweries. Tap rooms and<br />

tasting lounges welcome you with open bottles.<br />

Get your BBB Passport and info at: barrelsbottlesbrews.ca<br />

#BARRELTRAIL | #BREWERYQG | visitwindsoressex.com

30 |<strong>August</strong>/<strong>September</strong> <strong>2018</strong><br />

Spirits<br />

Taking it Slow<br />

Willibald Farm Distillery in Ayr<br />

eatdrink.ca |@eatdrinkmag<br />


The folks at Willibald Farm Distillery<br />

might say that time hasn’t been on<br />

their side — and that’s all right with<br />

them. At the distillery located near<br />

Ayr, about 30 minutes south of Kitchener,<br />

they’re in the habit of just taking things slow.<br />

Even after the investment in start-up costs,<br />

they weren’t in a rush to get to market. Their<br />

success is a marker of the painstaking nature<br />

of the planning and distilling process they<br />

developed.<br />

“We probably went through close to 100<br />

variations of recipes before we decided which<br />

one to use. We were confident then that we<br />

had something people would really like,” says<br />

co-owner Jordan van der Heyden.<br />

The 29-year-old and his business partners<br />

and co-founders — brother Nolan, 25, and<br />

long-time friend Cam Formica, also 29 — have<br />

set themselves up on<br />

100 acres of the van<br />

der Heyden family<br />

farm, formerly a<br />

livestock operation.<br />

The partners, who<br />

grew up together in<br />

Ayr, wanted to test<br />

their entrepreneurial<br />

mettle and “find<br />

something different<br />

that we could use the<br />

land for,” according<br />

to Jordan. Their own<br />

time-dependent<br />

version of gin was<br />

the immediate<br />

answer. They grow<br />

grains, lavender, and other crops, and keep<br />

honey bees. “With everything we grow, we<br />

make spirits,” he says.<br />

Nolan and Jordan both went to University<br />

of <strong>Waterloo</strong>. Formica attended Lakehead.<br />

That brought business, engineering and<br />

environmental science to the Willibald<br />

management table, along with some distilling<br />

education in the U.S. Distilling is Nolan’s<br />

responsibility, and he is broadening his<br />

understanding of the art and science of the<br />

process with schooling in Scotland. As for the<br />

name, it’s an inside family joke that everyone<br />

is now happy to share: Willibald is Jordan’s<br />

and Nolan’s grandfather’s middle name. “We<br />

were looking for something unique. He’s never<br />

been too fond of it, but he’s warmed up to it<br />

as a business name and wears a shirt with the<br />

brand,” says Jordan.<br />

It was 2012 when the trio was searching for<br />

a way to use the farm, recognizing that there<br />

were a lot of breweries out there. “We realized<br />

Willibald Farm Distillery partners, from the left, Nolan<br />

Van der Hayden, Jordan Van der Hayden & Cam Formica.

<strong>Eatdrink</strong>: The Local Food & Drink Magazine<br />

<strong>August</strong>/<strong>September</strong> <strong>2018</strong> | 31<br />

distilling was still in its infancy at that point.<br />

Only Dillon’s in Niagara and Still Waters in<br />

Toronto were in business at the time.” Today<br />

there are about 20 distilleries up and running.<br />

The Willibald facility is an old barn,<br />

refurbished but maintaining its post-andbeam<br />

character. There’s a retail store, and they<br />

give tours and offer complementary tastings.<br />

Until very recently, distilleries could not offer<br />

glasses of spirits in the way that breweries<br />

and wineries were able to. “We just got that<br />

privilege a few months ago and are serving<br />

cocktails at the farm. That’s been a great thing<br />

for us,” says Jordan. They’ve added a woodfired<br />

oven and have started serving food.<br />

Gin itself has a storied history. A grain<br />

distillate, it is initially distilled to a desired<br />

alcohol content and then distilled again along<br />

with an infusion of juniper berries and a range<br />

of herbs and botanicals. Water is added to<br />

establish the correct alcohol concentration —<br />

usually 80 to 95 proof — with the hope that<br />

the spirit will be aromatic and fairly light. At<br />

Willibald they have gotten that down pat, if<br />

their success is any indication. They started<br />

with the trial-and-error of home distilling<br />

and learned the theory side in the U.S. Those<br />

were the easy steps. “It took us a few years<br />

to get the necessary permits and zoning<br />

amendments,” says Jordan. The farm is zoned<br />

for agriculture, but distilling is considered<br />

an industrial process. “The authorities were<br />

extremely supportive, but because it was a<br />

new concept it took a long time.”<br />

Imagine a drink made from corn, rye and<br />

malted barley. Gin, by law, has to include<br />

juniper as a flavour component. “We also add<br />

caraway seed, grapefruit peel, cardamom,<br />

coriander and angelica root. Those ingredients<br />

flavour the gin, and from there we barrel it,<br />

and that’s where the colour comes from,” says<br />

Jordan. The blending process only takes about<br />

10 days. Then comes the barrel aging — a<br />

time commitment of many months. After<br />

aging the contents of the barrels are blended<br />

and then bottled for shipping. The copper pot<br />

still capacity is 1,000 liters. Willibald distills<br />

anywhere from three to five 50-gallon barrels<br />

of whisky or gin a week. The gin, which is<br />

constantly being distilled, is available at LCBO<br />

year-round. “Our first seasonal release will be<br />

later this summer. That will be in the realm of<br />

1,500 to 2,000 bottles.”<br />

The current revival of the cocktail menu at<br />

bars and restaurants, and the bespoke, crafted<br />

impetus it carries, has meant that mixologists<br />

are constantly scanning product lines for the<br />

new and unique. Willibald fits the bill. At the<br />

time of this writing Willibald gin was the only<br />

barrel-aged gin available at the LCBO. “Gin is<br />

typically an unaged spirit. It’s clear and never<br />

been in oak, traditionally. But our gin looks<br />

a lot like whisky with its dark amber colour,<br />

and that’s because it spends anywhere from<br />

four to ten months in oak casks.” The results<br />

are what he calls a “whisky character” that<br />

bartenders are interested in because they<br />

can’t get it elsewhere. “It makes a phenomenal<br />

whisky sour,” he adds.<br />

Like new lines of crafted tequila, a barrelaged<br />

gin like Willibald lends itself to being<br />

sipped neat. For consumers who have never<br />

thought of drinking gin straight that’s<br />

something of a perceived obstacle that the<br />

company is trying to change. “Barrel aging<br />

really mellows out the spirit and cleans it up a

32 |<strong>August</strong>/<strong>September</strong> <strong>2018</strong><br />

bit, making it suitable<br />

if you do want to drink<br />

it neat or on the rocks.<br />

It’s quite smooth.<br />

There has been a<br />

remarkable appetite<br />

for good quality gin in<br />

an older demographic<br />

of customer we are<br />

seeing, say from the<br />

1950s and 1960s era.”<br />

Identifying the exact<br />

nature of “local” is a bit of a mug’s game: it<br />

can mean different things to different people.<br />

But the concept does play a part in Willibald’s<br />

marketing strategy. “What we find is that a<br />

lot of the restaurants that are focussed on<br />

quality cocktails don’t necessarily put as much<br />

emphasis on local. They’re more concerned<br />

with the quality of the product,” Jordan says.<br />

That makes sense, of course — and that’s<br />

the way it should be — but he adds that this<br />

region has been supportive of this new entry<br />

into the marketplace, for being both local and<br />

of high quality. “In <strong>Waterloo</strong> Region, we’ve<br />

been able to play up the local angle, but of<br />

course it isn’t the issue when selling outside<br />

the region, in Toronto for instance.” He cites<br />

examples of where Willibald is being served in<br />

the region, including Red House, The Belmont<br />

Bistro and Grand Trunk Saloon, to name only<br />

a few. “We do really well at the Cambridge<br />

Mill,” he adds. “They’re extremely proud of<br />

listing where they get their ingredients.”<br />

Willibald currently doesn’t have the<br />

competition that breweries and wineries do.<br />

Even at the LCBO, the product is unique, and<br />

that’s been good. They target establishments<br />

with specialty cocktail menus rather than<br />

venues that focus on volume. Yet even some<br />

better bars and restaurants may not yet have<br />

what Jordan calls “the craft-spirit mentality”<br />

like they have for craft beer. “Once they’ve<br />

tried it, it’s a good sell for us,” he says.<br />

eatdrink.ca |@eatdrinkmag<br />

There’s more Willibald to look forward to.<br />

Gin accounts for only about one-third of their<br />

production. Whisky makes up the majority.<br />

However, that spirit, by virtue of Canadian<br />

law, must be aged a minimum of three years.<br />

“We haven’t been able to release any yet. We’ve<br />

been in production for a little over two years<br />

now, so in the next year or two we’ll have some<br />

whisky,” Jordan says. There are plans for spiced<br />

whisky with apple. “We’re also doing some<br />

work with the lavender we grow and we have<br />

honey bees at the<br />

farm.” That means<br />

Willibald, unique with<br />

its inventive gin, is<br />

continuing along the<br />

creative path they’ve<br />

forged for themselves,<br />

but they’re not<br />

rushing things. “We<br />

are playing around<br />

with quite a few<br />

things,” says Jordan.<br />

“We have the type of still that allows us to do<br />

anything with spirits, from gins and whiskies<br />

to fruit brandies. Those are the products we’re<br />

interested in pursuing. But because it’s aged,<br />

it takes time.”<br />

Willibald Farm Distillery<br />

1271 Reidsville Road, Ayr<br />

226-556-9941<br />

drinkwillibald.com<br />

ANDREW COPPOLINO is a Kitchener-based writer<br />

and broadcaster. He is publisher of <strong>Waterloo</strong> Region Eats<br />

(waterlooregioneats.com) a longstanding online resource<br />

dedicated to food, dining, restaurants, chefs, sustainability<br />

and agriculture. Andrew also serves as a regional<br />

<strong>Eatdrink</strong> Editorial Consultant.<br />

BROGAN McNABB is a Toronto-based fashion and<br />

lifestyle photographer. broganmcnab.com

<strong>Eatdrink</strong>: The Local Food & Drink Magazine<br />

Beer<br />

Twelve Temptations<br />

Local Craft Beers for Summer<br />

<strong>August</strong>/<strong>September</strong> <strong>2018</strong> | 33<br />


One deck, one dock, one cottage,<br />

plenty of beer. Does anything say<br />

summer like a selection of fresh<br />

local craft beers?<br />

While many equate craft beer with bitter IPAs<br />

or thick and heavy stouts, it’s not necessarily<br />

so. Increasingly, Southwestern Ontario’s<br />

impressive craft breweries are producing small<br />

Orange Creamsic Ale — Railway<br />

City Brewery, St. Thomas. Available until<br />

<strong>August</strong>, Orange Creamsic<br />

takes inspiration for its name<br />

and its taste from the classic<br />

orange and vanilla ice cream<br />

bar. Creamy with a vanilla<br />

flavour, it’s light enough in<br />

alcohol (4.8 per cent) to be<br />

sessionable. It also makes a<br />

great dessert beer.<br />

batch easy-to-drink lagers, malty golden ales,<br />

and wheat beer seasonals with unexpected<br />

flavours guaranteed to quench thirsts on hot<br />

summer days. Here are some great choices —<br />

all widely available at the brewery itself and<br />

at the LCBO, select grocery stores, or The Beer<br />

Store — to fill your cooler and impress guests.<br />

Flashback Rhubarb Wheat Beer —<br />

Forked River Brewing, London. Brewed<br />

every spring for the past four<br />

years, Flashback has been<br />

known as Mojo until now.<br />

Forked River has swapped<br />

names for the beer, and the<br />

lava lamp label artwork has<br />

given way to an hourglass,<br />

but you’ll spot the 473 mL<br />

cans quickly thanks to their

eatdrink.ca |@eatdrinkmag<br />

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40035 BLYTH ROAD, BLYTH, ON N0M 1H0<br />

1-844-523-4724 WWW.COWBELLBREWING.COM<br />

familiar and distinctive yellow colour. The<br />

rhubarb content gives a punch of tartness,<br />

but not so much as to ruin the wheat beer<br />

quaffability. Try pairing it with a bowl of<br />

summer fruit.<br />

El Buscador Cerveza<br />

— Descendants Brewery,<br />

Kitchener. What says heat<br />

relief better than a Mexicanstyle<br />

lager? As a deviation from<br />

the macro-brewed Corona, El<br />

Buscador Cerveza is a suitable<br />

choice. It’s only 4 per cent<br />

alcohol, making it sessionable<br />

even if the Day of the Deadinspired<br />

artwork hints at<br />

something more potent.<br />

1857 Kolsch — Abe Erb Brewery,<br />

<strong>Waterloo</strong>. This style of<br />

beer originated in Cologne,<br />

German, and is between a<br />

lager and ale. It’s alternatively<br />

known as a cream ale,<br />

particularly in the U.S. Abe<br />

Erb’s kolsch hits the mark as<br />

a versatile and solid choice to<br />

pair with thick hamburgers<br />

or ribs. Many will prefer it as<br />

a beverage with a meal rather<br />

than a sessionable beer round<br />

the campfire. It’s 4.8 per cent<br />

alcohol.<br />

Cream Ale — Anderson<br />

Craft Ales, London. If there’s a craft<br />

beer for cottage guests who think they<br />

don’t like craft beer,<br />

this is it. One of three<br />

breweries in London’s<br />

intriguing Old East<br />

Village, Anderson brews<br />

a number of delightful<br />

year-round beers, oneoffs,<br />

and seasonals. But<br />

it’s Anderson Cream Ale,<br />

sold in six-packs of 355<br />

mL cans, which serves as<br />

the gateway. Medium in<br />

body, malty in taste, it’s<br />

a stellar cream ale which<br />

has quickly found a loyal fan base.<br />

Backpaddle Blonde — Upper Thames<br />

Brewing, Woodstock. What’s summer<br />

without a blonde in the crowd? Upper<br />

Thames’ Backpaddle Blonde is the two-year-

<strong>Eatdrink</strong>: The Local Food & Drink Magazine<br />

old brewery’s best selling<br />

beer, and for good reason.<br />

It has broad appeal among<br />

all beer drinkers. It’s malty<br />

with a hint of citrus flavour<br />

derived from Cascade hops<br />

grown by the Tavistock Hop<br />

Company. Blondes — or<br />

golden ales — are close in<br />

flavour to the popular macro<br />

brews. Freshness is the key<br />

to enjoying a craft blonde.<br />

Backpaddle is in a limited<br />

number of local Beer<br />

Stores.<br />

Helles Lager —<br />

<strong>Wellington</strong> Brewery,<br />

Guelph. Available at the<br />

Beer Store in 355 mL cans,<br />

Helles is <strong>Wellington</strong>’s take<br />

on a traditional German<br />

light lager. It’s a brave<br />

attempt to sway fans of<br />

big multinational brands.<br />

For the patriots, it uses<br />




It's what we drink.<br />



36 |<strong>August</strong>/<strong>September</strong> <strong>2018</strong> eatdrink.ca |@eatdrinkmag<br />

all-Canadian barley and wheat malt. As a<br />

4.5 per cent lager, it works in pretty much<br />

all situations, from campfire gatherings to<br />

grilled food.<br />

Suburban Menace — Refined Fool<br />

Brewing, Sarnia. This intriguing beer moves<br />

people along the<br />

craft beer tasting<br />

chart. It’s a little<br />

stronger in alcohol<br />

(5.7 per cent) and<br />

a little more bitter<br />

without treading into<br />

IPA territory. Red<br />

in colour, Suburban<br />

Menace comes in<br />

shareable 650 mL bottles, ideal for pouring<br />

summer tasters for the unconverted. Its<br />

complex tastes — can you pick up the caramel,<br />

blueberry, and bubblegum? — make it a great<br />

conversation starter.<br />

Wild Child — Black Swan<br />

Brewing Company. Wild<br />

Child is a sour ale, in the<br />

Berliner Weisse style. Light<br />

and very bubbly, it’s tart<br />

without being puckering<br />

and could serve as a great<br />

gateway beer for wine<br />

drinkers or those turned off<br />

by the traditional bitterness<br />

in many beer styles.<br />

Variations are available at<br />

times, with additions such as<br />

seasonal fruit. Wild Chid is an excellent thirst<br />

quencher as a stand alone on a hot summer<br />

day or would pair wonderfully with a pan-fried<br />

fish or salad. Available in 1-litre and 2-litre<br />

growlers at the brewery.<br />

And finally, three variations on a theme in one<br />

convenient six-pack.<br />

Summer Radler Pack — <strong>Waterloo</strong><br />

Brewing, Kitchener. <strong>Waterloo</strong> Brewing<br />

packages its<br />

three summer<br />

seasonal<br />

radlers in a<br />

six-pack box.<br />

A radler is a<br />

mix of lager<br />

and fruit<br />

juice, with the<br />

result being<br />

more refreshing<br />

flavour and less alcohol. <strong>Waterloo</strong>’s pack<br />

includes grapefruit, citrus, and raspberry<br />

versions, each at 3.1 per cent alcohol.<br />

<strong>Waterloo</strong>’s radlers pair with light summer<br />

fare off the grill — grapefruit with shrimp,<br />

raspberry with whitefish and tossed salad,<br />

citrus with steak. <strong>Waterloo</strong> Citrus Radler<br />

has appeal as a reward after an afternoon of<br />

summer yard work.<br />

GEORGE MACKE is a Southwestern Ontario craft<br />

beer explorer who spends too much time at the LCBO.<br />

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<strong>Eatdrink</strong>: The Local Food & Drink Magazine<br />

<strong>August</strong>/<strong>September</strong> <strong>2018</strong> | 37<br />

Wine<br />

Finding “Somewhereness”<br />

Terroir In a Glass of Wine<br />

If you have been to a wine tasting, the<br />

discussion at some point has probably<br />

lead to terroir. This is a French term<br />

that basically means “a sense of place.”<br />

When used in relation to wine, terroir is a<br />

combination of factors, such as the soil and<br />

the climate of the area where the grapes are<br />

grown, which impart unique characteristics<br />

that can be tasted in the wine.<br />

Ontario is a cool climate wine region. The<br />

wines made here are often more aromatic,<br />

lighter in body, and<br />

higher in acidity<br />

than their warm<br />

climate equivalents.<br />

The soil in each<br />

of Ontario’s three<br />

major wine growing<br />

regions is complex.<br />

Glacial clay, silt,<br />

and limestone<br />

contribute to the<br />

terroir of Ontario<br />

wines. Sometimes<br />

just small variances<br />

in the wine’s acidity,<br />

alcohol level or<br />

minerality have a<br />

big influence on the<br />

taste and quality.<br />

Recently a group<br />

of 12 Ontario winemakers<br />

gathered<br />

at Stratford Chefs<br />

School for an event<br />

called Somewhereness.<br />

In the group’s<br />

promotional material<br />

“somewhereness”<br />

is explained as a<br />

term used “to describe the blend of terroir,<br />

climate, vine and vintner that let a wine stand<br />

apart.… It speaks of small plots, sustainable<br />

practices, responsible stewardship and the way<br />


our approach to winemaking contributes to<br />

the elusive characteristics that flow through to<br />

your soul with every sip of our wine.”<br />

The tasting at the Chefs School offered<br />

one-on-one conversations with the<br />

Somewhereness producers.<br />

Shiraz Mottiar, winemaker at Malivoire<br />

Wine in Niagara, was pouring several wines. He<br />

offered specifics on the Malivoire 2015 Small<br />

Lot Pinot Noir ($29.95 retail from the winery).<br />

The grapes were sourced from two vineyards<br />

in the Beamsville<br />

Bench. The Moira<br />

vineyard has vines<br />

that are over twenty<br />

years old, and<br />

they contribute<br />

to the fresh fruit<br />

acidity. The Mottiar<br />

vineyard, Shiraz’s<br />

own vineyard, is at<br />

a higher elevation<br />

and imparts<br />

both acidity and<br />

minerality. The<br />

Malivoire Small Lot<br />

Pinot Noir offers<br />

fresh, vibrant red<br />

berry fruits, clove<br />

and earthy spices,<br />

and mushroom and<br />

mineral nuances.<br />

Lively, fresh with a<br />

smooth finish. Wellpriced<br />

for a quality<br />

wine like this.<br />

Malivoire’s<br />

2016 Small Lot<br />

Chardonnay ($19.95<br />

retail from the<br />

winery) was made from Moira vineyard grapes.<br />

The wine was allowed to go through partial<br />

malolactic fermentation and then aged 50%<br />

in stainless steel, with the remainder aged in<br />

The Somewhereness brand ambassadors included:<br />

(clockwise from top left) Shiraz Mottiar from Malivoire; Ilya<br />

Rubin from 13th Street Winery; Harald Thiel from Hidden Bench<br />

Estate Winery; and Suzanne Janke from Stratus Vineyards.

38 |<strong>August</strong>/<strong>September</strong> <strong>2018</strong><br />

eatdrink.ca |@eatdrinkmag<br />

The wineries each presented a line-up of products:<br />

(from the left) Cave Spring, Malivoire, and Hidden Bench.<br />

French barrels, for nine months. The buttery<br />

notes and the hint of vanilla oak balance the<br />

green apple and the lemon citrus notes.<br />

Harald Thiel, owner of Hidden Bench Estate<br />

Winery, was pouring six terroir-driven wines<br />

at the event. “Our wines are unfiltered, which<br />

I believe adds to their ageability” he said. “We<br />

are trying to make wines that are not only<br />

good Ontario wines but also are wines that<br />

can take their place on the world stage.” The<br />

2015 Estate Chardonnay ($29.95 retail from<br />

the winery) showcases the Beamsville Bench<br />

terroir. The grapes in this wine are sourced<br />

from the Locust Lane, Felseck and Rosomel<br />

vineyards. Locust Lane and Felseck have a<br />

west/east slope as well as a south/north slope,<br />

providing excellent air, drainage and solar<br />

exposure. A strikingly complex chardonnay<br />

with lemon citrus, pear, melon and white<br />

flowers, driven by a mineral backbone one<br />

might expect from old world burgundies.<br />

“Somewhereness” is also about sustainable<br />

practices and responsible stewardship<br />

of the land that is dedicated to growing<br />

grapes. These winemakers also identify as<br />

caretakers of the earth where their vines<br />

grow. Nowhere is this more evident than at<br />

Stratus Vineyards. Located in Niagara-on-the-<br />

Lake, the winery was the first to earn LEED<br />

Canada Certification by producing wines in an<br />

environmentally-responsible manner.<br />

“The wine we grow is dependent on the<br />

health of the land on which it is grown,”<br />

reads the Stratus Environmental Mission<br />

Statement. “We farm our vineyard and guide<br />

our winemaking as though our children’s<br />

future depends on it.”<br />

At the event, Stratus poured the 2014 Stratus<br />

Red ($48 available at the winery only), a fine<br />

example of terroir, as it presents a different<br />

taste profile than the 2013 vintage currently<br />

available at the LCBO ($38.75, vintages<br />

#131037). A ripe, full bodied blend of cabernet<br />

franc, cabernet sauvignon, merlot and syrah.<br />

Juicy red berry fruits, grippy tannins and<br />

complex secondary oak flavours having spent<br />

584 days in 34% new French oak barrels.<br />

Terroir reflects a vineyard’s location and<br />

captures a sense of place, soil, climate, and<br />

seasons. It impacts vintage variations and the<br />

winemaker’s production decisions. Events<br />

like showcase the unique terroir of Ontario<br />

vineyards, and confirm that our wines have<br />

evolved to be comparable with other wellknown<br />

world-class wines.<br />

GARY KILLOPS is a CAPS Certified Sommelier who<br />

loves to talk, taste, and write about wine. He shares his<br />

tasting notes on EssexWineReview.com<br />

Share Our Passion<br />

Available<br />

at<br />

at the<br />

Fine LCBO Restaurants<br />

& The Winery<br />

Colchester Ridge Estate Winery<br />

A Family-Run Craft Winery<br />

Award-Winning VQA Wines<br />

Friendly Tasting Boutique<br />

Picnic Tables<br />

Artisanal Ontario Cheeses<br />

Special Events<br />

@crewinery • 108 Essex County Road 50 • Harrow ON • 519-738-9800

<strong>Eatdrink</strong>: The Local Food & Drink Magazine

40 |<strong>August</strong>/<strong>September</strong> <strong>2018</strong><br />

eatdrink.ca |@eatdrinkmag<br />

Books<br />

Rustle Up Some Grubs<br />

Edible: An Adventure into the World of Eating Insects<br />

and<br />

Eat the Beetles!<br />

When it comes to using insects<br />

as food, a cry of “bring on the<br />

delicacies” comes from certain<br />

cultures, whereas<br />

others need to be near-to-death<br />

starving before considering bugs<br />

for dinner. Two books, Edible: An<br />

Adventure into the World of Eating<br />

Insects and The Last Great Hope<br />

to Save the Planet (Houghton<br />

Mifflin, 2014) by Daniella<br />

Martin and Eat the Beetles! An<br />

Exploration into our Conflicted<br />

Relationship with Insects (ECW<br />

Press, 2017) by David Waltner-<br />

Toews, have taken steps<br />

beyond these polarizing camps<br />

by arguing that entomophagy<br />

(the eating of insects) has a<br />

lot going for it: a plentiful<br />

wild supply, few resources required to farm<br />

them, no butchering involved, and high<br />

nutritional value.<br />

Martin got interested in entomophagy as<br />

an anthropology student in Mexico.<br />

She extended her globetrotting to<br />

get experiences with cultures<br />

more accepting of such a practice.<br />

In Edible, she promotes<br />

her theory that “insects are<br />

the great untapped resource,<br />

the final frontier of natural<br />

food” by going to underground<br />

bug-eating parties in<br />

Tokyo, and to Noma (touted as<br />

the world’s best restaurant) in<br />

Copenhagen, where bugs are incorporated<br />

into the haute cuisine menu.<br />

Her philosophy of “farm pest to table”<br />

utilizes the natural world to counteract some<br />

Review by DARIN COOK<br />

Daniella Martin<br />

harmful impacts of traditional farming. One<br />

theory is that fields attract insects that can<br />

simultaneously be harvested while picking the<br />

crops. A yield of two different food sources<br />

can be extracted from the same plot<br />

of land, instead of disposing<br />

of one with pesticides<br />

that harm the other at the<br />

same time. These are the<br />

types of compelling ecological,<br />

economical, and practical<br />

reasons Martin has for eating<br />

insects, but she also knows<br />

how tasty they can be.<br />

The first bugs she tried<br />

were toasted grasshoppers<br />

in Mexico. While not overly<br />

enjoyable, she saw the appeal<br />

of their resemblance to burnt<br />

potato chips. Many bugs are<br />

compared to peanuts, almonds,<br />

and pistachios, with an overall consensus of<br />

having a nutty flavour profile. Martin likens<br />

queen ants to beef jerky popcorn kernels,<br />

and fried bamboo worms to extra<br />

crispy French fries. The first time<br />

she experimented at home,<br />

after mail-ordering wax moth<br />

larvae, Martin says they<br />

smelled liked mushrooms<br />

while cooking, and tasted<br />

like earthy, savoury raisins.<br />

Early in her research<br />

Martin confesses to being<br />

“on high alert for digestive<br />

disturbances” especially since<br />

insects are nearly always eaten<br />

whole, including outer shells not<br />

easily digested by humans. Even with<br />

the smorgasbord of insects she has sampled,

<strong>Eatdrink</strong>: The Local Food & Drink Magazine<br />

<strong>August</strong>/<strong>September</strong> <strong>2018</strong> | 41<br />

including tougher-to-swallow critters like<br />

scorpions and whole tarantulas (the former<br />

she compares to crab and the latter to chewy<br />

Korean barbeque), she admits that insects<br />

have never caused any gastrointestinal<br />

problems. But she knows there is<br />

a stigma to overcome, so Martin<br />

digs deep with nutritional and<br />

ecological arguments to make her<br />

case for insect eating. She also<br />

includes an appendix of insects<br />

that are safe to consume, and a<br />

compendium of some tried-andtrue<br />

recipes (Wax Moth Tacos<br />

or Cricket Kale Salad, anyone?).<br />

It may not be easy for North<br />

Americans to whole-heartedly<br />

swallow the idea, but even<br />

insinuating insects into one’s<br />

diet in small doses could lead<br />

to major change.<br />

Three years later Waltner-<br />

Toews, a veterinarian from<br />

Kitchener, has expanded on this topic in<br />

Eat the Beetles! and I was curious to see if<br />

entomophagy has become more acceptable.<br />

Have insects been popping up on more restaurant<br />

menus? Have they graduated<br />

from exotic to mainstream? Have<br />

insect farms started replacing<br />

cattle farms? Has a reliance<br />

on insects as food helped<br />

the world or has the trend<br />

stayed too small to have an<br />

impact? Are the squeamish<br />

still too squeamish?<br />

While the writing style<br />

of Martin had more of a<br />

pop culture vibe, that of<br />

Waltner-Toews is more scientific,<br />

albeit very readable and enjoyable,<br />

especially with his whimsical<br />

reference to the (human) Beatles, not only<br />

in the title, but in chapters alluding to Fab<br />

Four songs — Cricket to Ride; Can’t Buy Me<br />

Bugs; I Am the Cockroach. Each punninglytitled<br />

chapter deals with questions that have<br />

cropped up since “global beetle-mania.” His<br />

research takes him to fine dining in Paris (for<br />

the best insect preparations), wasp hunting<br />

in Japan, and cricket farming in Cambodia.<br />

One thing that the three years between<br />

these books has provided is more time for<br />

scientific research, to see if entomophagy<br />

has teeth to support global food security or<br />

will lead to newer ecological disasters. There<br />

David Waltner-Toews<br />

is a deep symbiotic relationship between<br />

insects and the natural world and taking away<br />

too many insects from the wild could have<br />

unintentional consequences. This concern<br />

leads Waltner-Toews to examine the viable<br />

options currently underway in insect farming.<br />

Although optimistic about bugs<br />

showing up in markets and<br />

on menus, Waltner-Toews’<br />

tone is more cautious,<br />

compared to Martin’s<br />

enthusiasm to convert all of<br />

us to insect eaters. He has<br />

good experiences sampling<br />

bug dishes: palm weevil<br />

larvae taste like dried figs to<br />

him and seasoned crickets<br />

are a legitimate substitute for<br />

greasy bar snacks. Given the<br />

overarching comparisons to<br />

snack foods, bugs may not have<br />

leapt to the plate to replace meat<br />

entrées yet; their main success<br />

comes as protein replacements in<br />

tacos surrounded by the other accoutrements<br />

to make a Mexican-style meal. For the newly<br />

initiated, some of the least offensive offerings<br />

are insect eggs as seasoning on upscale<br />

dishes (similar to the use of caviar)<br />

or an amalgam of bugs mixed<br />

with vegetables in stir-fries or<br />

salads. Some companies are<br />

successfully using ground-up<br />

cricket flour as protein<br />

powder in energy bars to<br />

mask any resemblance to sixlegged<br />

creatures.<br />

For many cultures,<br />

entomol ogy and gastronomy<br />

have already collided in ancient<br />

methods of sustenance or as more<br />

recent trends to embellish menus.<br />

Leaving taboos at the door while reading<br />

these books may lead to some new tasty<br />

snacks, while jumping into a movement<br />

that can alleviate global problems. Even if<br />

overcoming cultural aversions seems difficult,<br />

remember that bugs are already engrained<br />

in many indigenous cuisines, and the advice<br />

of Waltner-Toews is: “If you are a guest in<br />

another country, and they offer you bugs to<br />

eat, it is rude to decline the offer.”<br />

DARIN COOK is a regular <strong>Eatdrink</strong> contributor who<br />

lives and works in Chatham-Kent.

42 |<strong>August</strong>/<strong>September</strong> <strong>2018</strong><br />

eatdrink.ca |@eatdrinkmag<br />

Recipes<br />

Firehouse Chef<br />

Recipes from Canada’s Firefighters<br />

By Patrick Mathieu<br />

Review and Recipe Selections by TRACY TURLIN<br />

Patrick Mathieu is a Quebec native who<br />

was influenced by his grandmother<br />

to learn to cook at the age of 16.<br />

A few years later he was inspired<br />

by his grandfather and uncles to become a<br />

firefighter. Sixteen years on, Mathieu now<br />

works for the <strong>Waterloo</strong> Fire Department.<br />

He and his wife Andrea Lauren own Station<br />

House Catering and Private Chef Services.<br />

He’s a food columnist for Firefighting in<br />

Canada magazine and was a contestant on<br />

Season 2 of Food Network Canada’s Chopped<br />

Canada. Somewhere in there he found time to<br />

write a cookbook: Firehouse Chef: Recipes from<br />

Canada’s Firefighters (Whitecap Books, 2016).<br />

According to the author, rookies are given<br />

the following choices in the firehouse kitchen:<br />

cook for a bunch of hungry firefighters, or<br />

clean up after them. For Mathieu the decision<br />

was easy. He developed his firefighting/<br />

life-saving skills, balanced that out with his<br />

culinary skills, and found he loved them both.<br />

Firehouse Chef was more than the meat and<br />

potatoes fare I was expecting. These men and<br />

women seem to love their food spicy. I was also<br />

surprised at the number of desserts on offer.<br />

Mathieu gives us 90 of his own recipes, ranging<br />

from classic French Canadian dishes to Italian<br />

and Mexican favourites. He and his wife honeymooned<br />

in Thailand, and their love for the<br />

beautiful flavours of that country<br />

are apparent in this book. Fifty<br />

further recipes are contributions<br />

from other firehouse cooks across<br />

Canada, including a number from<br />

Southwestern Ontario. If you<br />

know any firefighters, you’ll definitely<br />

want to check this out to<br />

see if they have a recipe included.<br />

I never really get tired of fresh<br />

Ontario corn with a simple butter/salt/pepper<br />

treatment, but<br />

Mexican Grilled Corn<br />

is a decadent alternative<br />

and sure to<br />

impress at your next<br />

cookout. A beautiful<br />

balance of sweet<br />

corn, salty cheese<br />

and tangy lime,<br />

these are only<br />

made better by<br />

being incredibly<br />

messy. The perfect<br />

summer food<br />

made for sharing with a crowd.<br />

If you like the camping vibe without the<br />

wood smoke and mosquitoes, try a slightly<br />

more upscale version of the campfire<br />

classic, S’mores Sundae. It’s a great way to<br />

enjoy the flavours of childhood memories<br />

without dropping marshmallows in the fire.<br />

(Does anyone else like them charred on the<br />

outside? Tasty, but difficult to find the sweet<br />

spot before they go nuclear.)<br />

For an easy and quick weeknight dinner<br />

in the summer, you can’t do much better<br />

than Grilled Ahi Tuna with Sicilian Salsa.<br />

The flavourful salsa can be made ahead of<br />

time and the tuna can be grilled in less than<br />

five minutes. It makes for a very light yet<br />

satisfying dinner. Salad or pasta could be<br />

served alongside, depending on<br />

your appetite.<br />

I could cook from this book<br />

all summer and never run out of<br />

recipes I want to try. I actually<br />

tried to find a recipe I didn’t like<br />

the look of and couldn’t find<br />

one. (Maybe the risotto. I don’t<br />

get risotto. Is it rice? Is it cream?<br />

Is it mushy, crunchy?) What was<br />

Author Patrick Mathieu

<strong>Eatdrink</strong>: The Local Food & Drink Magazine<br />

I saying? Oh yes, all of Firehouse Chef’s recipes<br />

— including risotto — are flavourful dishes that<br />

work as well for a busy family as they do for busy<br />

firefighters.<br />

In addition to the wonderful food, we get<br />

a glimpse into the lighter side of life in a<br />

working firehouse. This book is as much fun to<br />

read as it is to cook from.<br />

Mexican Grilled Corn<br />

Serves 4<br />

In Ontario, we really look forward to fresh corn<br />

season and in the fire house a couple dozen cobs<br />

will regularly show up during a shift. Try this<br />

Mexican street-food edition to dress up your<br />

next cob.<br />

<strong>August</strong>/<strong>September</strong> <strong>2018</strong> | 43<br />

TRACY TURLIN is a freelance writer and dog groomer<br />

in London. Reach her at tracyturlin@gmail.com<br />

Recipes excerpted from Firehouse Chef: Recipes from<br />

Canada’s Firefighters. Published by Whitecap Books.<br />

Reproduced by arrangement with the Publisher. All<br />

rights reserved.<br />

Brush each ear of corn with about 1 Tbsp (5 ml)<br />

mayonnaise mixture and then roll in the cheese to coat.<br />

Sprinkle with salt, pepper and cilantro and serve with lime<br />

wedges for squeezing over the corn.<br />

4 ears fresh corn,<br />

husked<br />

½ cup (125 ml)<br />

mayonnaise<br />

½ Tbsp (7.5 ml)<br />

Mexican-style chili<br />

powder<br />

½ Tbsp (7.5 ml)<br />

smoked paprika<br />

1 tsp (5 ml) finely<br />

grated lime zest<br />

½ cup (125 ml)<br />

crumbled cotija,<br />

queso fresco or<br />

feta cheese<br />

Kosher salt, to taste<br />

Freshly ground<br />

pepper, to taste<br />

½ cup (125 ml) fresh<br />

cilantro, chopped<br />

1 lime, cut into<br />

wedges, for serving<br />

Prepare a gas or charcoal<br />

grill over high heat.<br />

Grill the corn, turning<br />

frequently with tongs<br />

until the kernels have<br />

softened and are charred<br />

in spots, 6-8 minutes.<br />

Remove from the grill and<br />

allow to cool slightly.<br />

In a small bowl, combine<br />

the mayonnaise, chili<br />

powder, smoked paprika<br />

and lime zest. Put the<br />

cheese on a small plate.

44 |<strong>August</strong>/<strong>September</strong> <strong>2018</strong><br />

Grilled Ahi Tuna with Sicilian Salsa<br />

Serves 4-6<br />

Ahi Tuna could very well be my favourite<br />

ingredient both to cook and to eat. During my<br />

appearance on Season 2 of the Food Network’s<br />

Chopped Canada you can only imagine my giant<br />

sigh of relief when I saw a beautiful piece of<br />

tuna as one of my secret ingredients in the main<br />

course round! This dense, firm-fleshed fish is<br />

absolutely perfect for grilling and absorbs rubs<br />

and marinades wonderfully. Cooking it rare will<br />

ensure its maximum tenderness and flavour, and<br />

the Sicilian Salsa is a perfect briny compliment to<br />

this or any grilled fish.<br />

4 ahi tuna steaks<br />

(about ½ lb/225 g<br />

each)<br />

2 Tbsp (30 ml)<br />

grapeseed oil, for<br />

coating<br />


1 Tbsp (15 ml) garlic<br />

powder<br />

1 Tbsp (15 ml) dried<br />

basil<br />

1 tsp (5 ml) ground<br />

fennel seeds<br />

¼ tsp (1 ml) red chili<br />

pepper flakes<br />

½ Tbsp (7.5 ml)<br />

kosher salt<br />

1 tsp (5 ml) lemon<br />

pepper or freshly<br />

ground black<br />

pepper<br />


¼ cup (60 ml)<br />

chopped cured<br />

black olives<br />

1 cup (250 ml)<br />

chopped tomatoes<br />

¼ cup (60 ml)<br />

chopped fresh basil<br />

3 garlic cloves,<br />

minced<br />

¼ tsp (1 ml) cayenne<br />

2 Tbsp (30 ml) extra<br />

virgin olive oil<br />

Juice of ½ lemon<br />

Kosher salt, to taste<br />

Prepare a grill for direct<br />

grilling over high heat and<br />

oil the grill rack. Coat the<br />

tuna with grapeseed oil.<br />

eatdrink.ca |@eatdrinkmag<br />


In a small bowl mix together the garlic powder, basil,<br />

fennel seeds, chili flakes, salt and pepper. Sprinkle both<br />

sides of each tuna steak generously with the spice rub.<br />


To make the salsa, combine all ingredients in a bowl, taste<br />

and season with salt. Set aside.<br />

Grill the tuna directly over high heat for 1–2 minutes per<br />

side, until grill marked and still rare in the middle.<br />

Arrange the tuna steaks on individual plates and top with<br />

the salsa. Serve alongside your favourite pasta.

<strong>Eatdrink</strong>: The Local Food & Drink Magazine<br />

S’mores Sundae<br />

Serves 6<br />

Sundaes are a really simple way to have fun<br />

with dessert, and they are a regular treat in<br />

the firehouse. This easy and decadent twist<br />

on everyone’s campfire classic might surpass<br />

the original, with a homemade chocolate<br />

ganache, toasted marshmallow and lots of<br />

ice cream!<br />

12 graham crackers<br />

3 Tbsp (45 ml) brown sugar<br />

1 stick unsalted butter, melted<br />

Pinch of kosher salt<br />

40 large marshmallows<br />

½ lb (225 g) good-quality dark chocolate<br />

½ cup (125 ml) heavy cream<br />

2 cups (500 ml) vanilla bean ice cream<br />

2 cups (500 ml) chocolate chunk ice cream<br />

<strong>August</strong>/<strong>September</strong> <strong>2018</strong> | 45<br />

Preheat oven to 325°F (160°C) and line a baking tray with<br />

parchment paper. Add the graham crackers to a food<br />

processor and process into fine crumbs. Add the sugar, butter<br />

and salt and pulse until the mixture is well incorporated.<br />

Pour out onto baking tray and form into one large “cookie.”<br />

Bake until light golden brown, about 15 minutes. Let cool<br />

completely then break into crumbles.<br />

Preheat oven on broil. Lay marshmallows on a parchmentlined<br />

baking tray in a single layer and place under the broiler<br />

for just a couple of minutes until browned well all over.<br />

Remove and set aside.<br />

Finely chop the chocolate and place in bowl. Heat the heavy<br />

cream over medium heat until just starting to simmer.<br />

Pour the heavy cream over the chocolate and fold until the<br />

chocolate melts and it becomes a smooth ganache.<br />

Place 1 scoop each of vanilla and chocolate ice cream<br />

in a parfait glass or bowl. Layer your sundae with dark<br />

chocolate ganache, graham cracker crumbles and a toasted<br />

marshmallow or two on top.

46 |<strong>August</strong>/<strong>September</strong> <strong>2018</strong><br />

eatdrink.ca |@eatdrinkmag<br />

The Lighter Side<br />

Give Peas a Chance<br />


It is not surprising that romantic unions<br />

occur over a common love of certain<br />

foods, as dictated by the adage that<br />

the way to one’s heart can be through<br />

the stomach. Less often will you see a couple<br />

bonding over a meal liked by one individual<br />

but not by the other. Such incompatibilities,<br />

though, can provide insights into how<br />

relationships work. It was definitely<br />

not my culinary skills that urged<br />

my wife to enter into holy<br />

matrimony with me, but it<br />

was my cooking during our<br />

courtship that taught us both<br />

some relationship lessons.<br />

When we were dating, the<br />

first meal I cooked for my future<br />

wife was my signature dish, one far more<br />

elaborate in my mind than in reality. I called<br />

it Chicken and Peas over Rice. By cooking for<br />

her in the early stages of our dating, I thought<br />

I was proving that I was not useless as a<br />

potential mate, and I was under the illusion<br />

that it was more romantic to surprise her<br />

with a homemade dish than to let her in on<br />

what to expect for dinner. I may have had this<br />

recipe down pat — open a can of soup and a<br />

container of sour cream for the sauce, split<br />

open a bag of frozen peas, boil Minute Rice,<br />

cut boneless chicken breasts into cubes. But it<br />

is stupefying that I thought it was worthy of<br />

serving to a girl I was trying to impress.<br />

A few days after I made this meal she told<br />

me, “I hate peas, but I like you, so I ate them,<br />

and now peas aren’t so bad.” Never would I<br />

have guessed that love could edge someone<br />

towards liking more vegetables. Up to that<br />

point she had known she liked me, but by<br />

eating those peas she learned just how far she<br />

would go for our relationship. She could have<br />

easily gone the other way, thinking, “I was on<br />

the fence about whether I liked this guy and it<br />

doesn’t seem worth it to eat something I don’t<br />

like, so it may be time to call it quits.”<br />

But that did not happen. The peas had not<br />

driven her away. However I wanted to avoid<br />

giving her any more reasons to stop eating<br />

with me. I had learned my lesson and decided<br />

to ask more questions about what she liked<br />

eating. I found out she liked Mexican and Asian<br />

food, and not long after we got engaged over a<br />

platter of Mexican-Asian nachos: a successful<br />

fusion dish with successful results.<br />

After twelve years of marriage and<br />

the addition of two sons to our fold,<br />

I still try to impress my wife with<br />

my cooking. Although I do a lot<br />

of things wrong in the kitchen,<br />

even when meticulously<br />

following a recipe, I hope that<br />

my attempts remind her that I<br />

wasn’t such a bad catch after all.<br />

And when I take over the kitchen I<br />

always ask, even if slightly uncertain after all<br />

these years, whether she likes persimmons, or<br />

bamboo shoots.<br />

To this day, especially when we are trying<br />

to get our two sons to try new foods, my wife<br />

says, “You know, I really hated peas until the<br />

first time your dad cooked dinner for me.”<br />

And I reply with, “Actually, your mother<br />

did not know how much she liked me until<br />

she tried peas. Only then did she realize she<br />

would do anything for me. And look where it<br />

got her: she has me and she likes peas.”<br />

I still make Chicken and Peas over Rice<br />

for our family of four. I know it may be<br />

unrefined, but I make it with love every time,<br />

because it could very well be one of those<br />

links in our relationship chain that made our<br />

love grow stronger. That first meal may not<br />

have been the way to my wife’s heart, but she<br />

learned that she can tolerate certain things<br />

for love. And I learned the importance of<br />

asking more questions.<br />

DARIN COOK is a regular <strong>Eatdrink</strong> contributor who<br />

lives and works in Chatham-Kent.

<strong>Eatdrink</strong>: The Local Food & Drink Magazine<br />

<strong>August</strong>/<strong>September</strong> <strong>2018</strong> | 47<br />

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and putting local food first.<br />

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48 |<strong>August</strong>/<strong>September</strong> <strong>2018</strong><br />

eatdrink.ca |@eatdrinkmag<br />

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