30.07.2018 Views

Eatdrink Waterloo & Wellington #2 August/September 2018

Local food and drink magazine serving Waterloo Region and Wellington County.

Local food and drink magazine serving Waterloo Region and Wellington County.

SHOW MORE
SHOW LESS

Create successful ePaper yourself

Turn your PDF publications into a flip-book with our unique Google optimized e-Paper software.

Issue #W2 | <strong>August</strong>/<strong>September</strong> <strong>2018</strong><br />

eatdrink<br />

The LOCAL Food & Drink Magazine<br />

FREE<br />

Gilt<br />

Restaurant<br />

Small Plates<br />

& Big Flavour<br />

FEATURING<br />

Crafty Ramen<br />

Ramen Renaissance in Guelph<br />

Willibald Farm Distillery<br />

Taking It Slow in Ayr<br />

Road Trip!<br />

Stratford's<br />

Gastro<br />

Scene<br />

Where to Eat in <strong>2018</strong><br />

Serving <strong>Waterloo</strong> Region & <strong>Wellington</strong> County<br />

www.eatdrink.ca


2 |<strong>August</strong>/<strong>September</strong> <strong>2018</strong><br />

eatdrink.ca |@eatdrinkmag<br />

THE BACON AND ALE TRAIL<br />

IS A WELL ROUNDED MEAL<br />

IF YOU COUNT BARLEY<br />

AS A VEGETABLE<br />

Bacon and ale are a combination made in heaven,<br />

includes 5 tastes for just $30.<br />

-<br />

Stratford Tourism Alliance at 47 Downie Street.<br />

visitstratford.ca


eatdrink<br />

The LOCAL Food & Drink Magazine<br />

eatdrinkmagazine<br />

@eatdrinkmag<br />

eatdrinkmag<br />

eatdrink.ca<br />

Think Global. Read Local.<br />

Publisher<br />

Chris McDonell – chris@eatdrink.ca<br />

Managing Editor Cecilia Buy – cbuy@eatdrink.ca<br />

Food Editor Bryan Lavery – bryan@eatdrink.ca<br />

Editorial Consultant Andrew Coppolino<br />

Copy Editor Kym Wolfe<br />

Social Media Editor Bryan Lavery – bryan@eatdrink.ca<br />

Advertising Sales Chris McDonell – chris@eatdrink.ca<br />

Bryan Lavery – bryan@eatdrink.ca<br />

Stacey McDonald – stacey@eatdrink.ca<br />

Terry Lynn “TL” Sim – TL@eatdrink.ca<br />

Finances<br />

Ann Cormier – finance@eatdrink.ca<br />

Graphics<br />

Chris McDonell, Cecilia Buy<br />

Writers<br />

Jane Antoniak, Darin Cook, Andrew<br />

Coppolino, Gary Killops, Bryan Lavery,<br />

George Macke, Tracy Turlin<br />

Photographers Steve Grimes, Nick Lavery, Brogan McNabb<br />

Telephone & Fax 519-434-8349<br />

Mailing Address 525 Huron Street, London ON N5Y 4J6<br />

Website<br />

City Media<br />

Printing<br />

Sportswood Printing<br />

OUR COVER<br />

An array of images helps capture some of the<br />

myriad urbane<br />

appeals of Gilt<br />

Restaurant<br />

in Downtown<br />

Kitchener. The<br />

ambiance,<br />

the cuisine,<br />

the location<br />

... Read the<br />

story by Bryan<br />

Lavery on<br />

page 6.<br />

© <strong>2018</strong> <strong>Eatdrink</strong> Inc. and the writers.<br />

All rights reserved.<br />

Reproduction or duplication of any material published in<br />

<strong>Eatdrink</strong> or on <strong>Eatdrink</strong>.ca is strictly prohibited without<br />

the written permis sion of the Publisher. <strong>Eatdrink</strong> has a printed<br />

circulation of 20,000 issues published six times annually. The<br />

views or opinions expressed in the information, content and/<br />

or advertisements published in <strong>Eatdrink</strong> or online are solely<br />

those of the author(s) and do not necessarily represent those of<br />

the Publisher. The Publisher welcomes submissions but accepts no<br />

responsibility for unsolicited material.<br />

Serving up<br />

Great<br />

partnerships<br />

commercial | digital | wide format | design<br />

Let us help with your next project...<br />

519.866.5558 | ben@sportswood.on.ca<br />

www.sportswood.on.ca


Contents<br />

Issue #W2 | <strong>August</strong>/<strong>September</strong> <strong>2018</strong><br />

Publisher’s Notes<br />

Spreading the Word<br />

Let's Communicate!!<br />

By CHRIS McDONELL<br />

5<br />

6<br />

Spirits<br />

Taking it Slow<br />

Willibald Farm Distillery<br />

By ANDREW COPPOLINO<br />

38<br />

Restaurants<br />

Small Plates & Big Flavours<br />

Gilt Restaurant in Kitchener<br />

By BRYAN LAVERY<br />

6<br />

Ramen Renaissance<br />

Crafty Ramen in Guelph<br />

By ANDREW COPPOLINO<br />

10<br />

Road Trips<br />

Stratford's Gastro Scene<br />

Where to Eat in <strong>2018</strong><br />

By BRYAN LAVERY<br />

14<br />

The BUZZ<br />

Culinary Community Notes<br />

22<br />

Spotlight<br />

A Taste of Place<br />

Taste Detours in Guelph<br />

40<br />

Two Books on<br />

Eating Insects!<br />

By BRYAN LAVERY<br />

28<br />

10<br />

42<br />

33<br />

14<br />

38<br />

Beer<br />

Twelve Temptations<br />

Local Craft Beers for Summer<br />

By GEORGE MACKE<br />

33<br />

Wine<br />

Finding “Somewhereness”<br />

Terroir In a Glass of Wine<br />

By GARY KILLOPS<br />

37<br />

Books<br />

Rustle Up Some Grubs<br />

Edible and Eat The Beetles!<br />

Reviews by DARIN COOK<br />

40<br />

Recipes<br />

Firehouse Chef<br />

Recipes from Canada’s Firefighters<br />

Review & Recipe Selections by TRACY TURLIN<br />

42<br />

The Lighter Side<br />

Give Peas a Chance<br />

By DARIN COOK<br />

46<br />

46


<strong>Eatdrink</strong>: The Local Food & Drink Magazine<br />

Publisher’s Notes<br />

Spreading the Word<br />

Let's Communicate!<br />

By CHRIS McDONELL<br />

<strong>August</strong>/<strong>September</strong> <strong>2018</strong> | 5<br />

Thank you for the warm welcome we<br />

have enjoyed in <strong>Waterloo</strong> Region<br />

& <strong>Wellington</strong> County! This is only<br />

our second issue here, so we're<br />

definitely the new kid on the block, but what<br />

a friendly neighbourhood we have moved<br />

into. We've been adding new distribution<br />

points for our print editions every week, at<br />

select locations where we think we're likely<br />

to find readers who will<br />

enjoy and appreciate our<br />

presentation of local food<br />

and drink stories. We do our best to keep<br />

that list updated on our website (eatdrink.<br />

ca/find-us). Of course, the magazine is also<br />

always available online, in full, for those who<br />

prefer that. The magazine scales beautifully<br />

to your device — smartphone, tablet or<br />

computer — and we encourage you to follow<br />

us on Facebook, Twitter or Instagram, or all<br />

three! Your feedback is always appreciated.<br />

In this issue, we're excited to tell the stories<br />

of two very different restaurants. Bryan<br />

Lavery visited Gilt Restaurant in Downtown<br />

Kitchener for <strong>Eatdrink</strong>, while Andrew<br />

Coppolino checked out Guelph's Crafty<br />

Ramen. We know that "all that glitters is not<br />

gold," but Bryan discovered that Gilt is truly<br />

golden, while Andrew found out that "craft"<br />

is definitely an apt descriptor for the food at<br />

Crafty Ramen. Our approach at <strong>Eatdrink</strong> is to<br />

only write about businesses that we like, and<br />

we're confident you will share our enthusiasm.<br />

Andrew also drove out to Ayr on the<br />

magazine's behalf to visit the innovative folks<br />

at Willibald Farm Distillery. Fortunately for<br />

consumers (us drinkers), the province of<br />

Ontario is removing some of the obstacles<br />

that have made the craft distillery business<br />

so challenging. Read on to see how cool<br />

agriculture can be.<br />

Bryan took a road trip to Stratford. In<br />

truth, he took a number of trips, and you'll<br />

see his recommendations on where to eat and<br />

eatdrink.ca<br />

drink in"Festival City." The theatre is world<br />

class, but so is Stratford's culinary scene.<br />

I know full well how much Bryan labours<br />

for this magazine, but it's also hard not to<br />

feel a little envy at times. An exploratory trip<br />

he took to Guelph with our sales rep TL Sim<br />

turned into such a treat that we found room<br />

to feature it in a short "Spotlight" story. Read<br />

about Taste Detours on page 28.<br />

Our cookbook reviewer<br />

Tracy Turlin spent some<br />

quality time with Canada's<br />

firefighters, but only through the pages of<br />

Firehouse Chef by Patrick Mathieu. Patrick<br />

is a firefighter with the <strong>Waterloo</strong> Fire<br />

Department and we've been looking forward<br />

to featuring his book for awhile. Bonus: we<br />

got permission to share three recipes and<br />

you'll find them all here.<br />

There's plenty more in this issue, with<br />

reviews of a couple of unusual (perhaps<br />

unsettling for some) books on eating insects.<br />

I do not envision many readers muttering<br />

"Yum" at this thought! But there is definitely<br />

food for thought there.<br />

I will close here with a plug for our "Buzz"<br />

column, which is our summary of the culinary<br />

news that we know our readers devour. We<br />

encourage local chefs, restaurateurs, managers<br />

— and readers — to send us info. While<br />

we've always got our ears to the ground, the<br />

area we cover is so large and there is so much<br />

happening that we truly need assistance with<br />

this. There is no charge to be included here<br />

and we strive to include as much news as<br />

possible. In addition to sharing this info in the<br />

magazine, we often also share it through our<br />

social media channels. Contact info is at the<br />

end of the Buzz column. We look forward to<br />

hearing from you.<br />

CHRIS McDONELL founded <strong>Eatdrink</strong> in 2007.


6 |<strong>August</strong>/<strong>September</strong> <strong>2018</strong><br />

eatdrink.ca |@eatdrinkmag<br />

Restaurants<br />

Small Plates and Big Flavours<br />

Gilt Restaurant in Downtown Kitchener<br />

By BRYAN LAVERY<br />

The culinary scene in Kitchener-<br />

<strong>Waterloo</strong> is being nourished by the<br />

community, including from the<br />

thriving tech industry (from indie<br />

startups to international goliaths), global think<br />

tanks, condo developments and downtown<br />

Kitchener’s pedestrian-friendly urban vibe<br />

and entrepreneurial spirit. The new LRT line<br />

is helping to transform the region by creating<br />

better access to Downtown Kitchener and<br />

Uptown <strong>Waterloo</strong>. Initiatives launched by the<br />

City of Kitchener to galvanize the downtown<br />

core are making an impact. New lighting was<br />

added to the streets, sidewalks were enlarged,<br />

and curbs were<br />

lowered. Planned<br />

developments are<br />

exploring ways to<br />

bring more retail and<br />

restaurants to the<br />

streetscape.<br />

Downtown<br />

Kitchener exemplifies<br />

a new urban identity,<br />

with arts, culture,<br />

recreation and<br />

commercial spaces<br />

that underpin an<br />

excellent quality of life and well-being.<br />

Anchored by Kitchener Market, this<br />

district is home to one of the region’s<br />

most interesting cluster of culturally<br />

diverse restaurants and eateries. Venture<br />

along King and Queen Streets to explore<br />

independent, locally owned shops,<br />

Gilt is urbane, open, airy and sophisticated, with<br />

lofty ceilings and a stylish and comfortable<br />

industrial ambiance. The 65-seat restaurant is<br />

located on the main floor of an office tower.


<strong>Eatdrink</strong>: The Local Food & Drink Magazine<br />

<strong>August</strong>/<strong>September</strong> <strong>2018</strong> | 7<br />

attractive cafés, pubs and great restos like TWH<br />

Social Club, La Cucina, The Rich Uncle, B at the<br />

Museum and Gilt Restaurant. The influx — and<br />

growth — of technology firms in Kitchener’s<br />

downtown have changed the area and the restaurant<br />

scene continues to morph to better serve not only<br />

the millennial crowd and the tech community but<br />

the increased foot traffic and energy that seasonal<br />

events bring to the core.<br />

Trella White and Stephanie Randall, both in<br />

their late twenties, grew up in Cambridge, Ontario,<br />

attending the same high school. Being roommates<br />

throughout university and friends since high school,<br />

they graduated from Wilfrid Laurier University with<br />

Bachelors of Business Administration. White and<br />

her mother (Starr) opened the much-lauded farmto-table<br />

inspired Cork Restaurant in Elora in 2010.<br />

After university, Stephanie joined them as a partner<br />

and took over the kitchen operations.<br />

Stephanie has a passion for the kitchen and quickly<br />

became an accomplished and creative cook under the<br />

chef at Cork. In relatively short order, she assumed<br />

the lead in the kitchen and along the way transformed<br />

into a professional, self-taught chef. Randall and<br />

White operated Cork for several years before they<br />

decided to expand their business interests. They<br />

set their sights on Kitchener-<strong>Waterloo</strong>, ultimately<br />

choosing their current location for their new<br />

restaurant. “Downtown Kitchener stood out to us, as<br />

it is a vibrant, creative, technology-driven community<br />

and we knew we had to be a part of it,” says White.<br />

"We didn’t want to be followers, we wanted to be<br />

leaders. When we moved to downtown Kitchener<br />

there weren’t any restaurants doing anything<br />

remotely similar to what we wanted to do. There was<br />

no one here downtown and we changed and innovated<br />

as the tech sector grew, evolving both the restaurant<br />

and catering business.”<br />

Gilt opened in <strong>September</strong> of 2014, a contemporary<br />

tapas restaurant with a millennial vibe in a<br />

re-purposed space in the heart of the technology<br />

triangle. The bar, lounge and 65-seat restaurant on the<br />

main floor of the office tower at 305 King Street West<br />

can also boast an elevated patio for alfresco eating and<br />

drinking. Gilt is urbane, open, airy and sophisticated,<br />

with lofty ceilings and a stylish and comfortable<br />

industrial ambiance. The music is upbeat.<br />

Gilt is about sharing, feasting, authenticity, quality<br />

ingredients and celebrating craft, innovation and<br />

From the top: Korean Fried Chicken (KFC) with honey bourbon and<br />

hoisin served with golden-brown potato puffs;<br />

Hot quail with grilled jalapeño cornbread, dill pickled, buttermilk<br />

aioli & Tennessee hot oil;<br />

Beef Tartar with yolk, toasted nori powder, ginger, soy, bird’s eye<br />

chillies, peanuts & cilantro, served with potato chips.


8 |<strong>August</strong>/<strong>September</strong> <strong>2018</strong><br />

eatdrink.ca |@eatdrinkmag<br />

From the top: Ramp Tortellini with hibiscussoaked<br />

raspberries, smoked Gorgonzola,<br />

toasted hazelnuts & grilled mushrooms;<br />

Paella with saffron rice, Argentinian pink<br />

shrimp, littleneck clams & cornmealcrusted<br />

basa fish;<br />

Yellowfin Tuna Nachos;<br />

Right, from the top: Pickled Mussels with<br />

grilled broccoli, charred sweet potato<br />

challah bread & avocado yogurt;<br />

Pina colada Thai pancake;<br />

Grilled Shrimp with smashed potatoes, hard<br />

boiled egg, sweet pickled rhubarb & arugula;<br />

Beef tatami with watermelon radish, fresh<br />

chilis, tomatoes, sesame and pickled radish.<br />

tradition. Chef de cuisine Alex<br />

Janke has been at Gilt since the<br />

beginning. Randall and White<br />

tend to focus on the catering<br />

end of the business. The culinary<br />

team share innate instincts when<br />

it comes to flavours, marrying<br />

global ingredients and enriching<br />

dishes by taking them to other<br />

contemporary dimensions. In<br />

speaking with Janke, I learned<br />

that he has been cooking for a<br />

decade and attended the Culinary<br />

Management program at Niagara<br />

College. His repertoire includes<br />

a variety of cuisine ranging from<br />

Thai and Indian to French and<br />

Mexican. “My favourite flavour<br />

profiles are Thai and Mexican<br />

combined with local ingredients,"<br />

says Janke. "For me, keeping<br />

ingredients as local as possible is<br />

essential if we would like to keep<br />

our farmers and businesses in<br />

Southern Ontario prosperous.”<br />

As for Janke’s favourite places<br />

in K-W, “I’d have to say Arabella<br />

Park Beer Bar if I’m going for a<br />

quick bite to eat and drink, and<br />

Red House is, in my<br />

opinion, one of the best<br />

restaurants in <strong>Waterloo</strong>.”<br />

Dinner service<br />

focuses on a well-chosen<br />

selection of smaller<br />

tapas-style offerings<br />

divided into categories:<br />

Fish, Meat and Vegetarian.<br />

This menu style<br />

proves to be infinitely<br />

versatile, giving diners<br />

the opportunity to<br />

curate their own tasting<br />

experience, rather than<br />

offering individual starters<br />

and main courses.<br />

Shareable plates allow<br />

diners to eat communally<br />

and sample a variety of<br />

items. Dishes are brought<br />

to the table gradually<br />

and continuously throughout the meal by conversant,<br />

friendly service professionals.<br />

The sharing and small plates menu appeal to the<br />

sophisticated, global palate, with culturally-grounded<br />

contemporary offerings like Middle Eastern-inspired


<strong>Eatdrink</strong>: The Local Food & Drink Magazine<br />

fried cauliflower florets with citrus aioli,<br />

chives, pomegranate, and pine nuts or baconwrapped<br />

dates with chorizo, which are rich,<br />

dense and sweet. Korean Fried Chicken (KFC)<br />

with honey bourbon and hoisin has a super<br />

crunchy kick and is served with golden-brown<br />

potato puffs. Yellowfin tuna nachos are served<br />

with mustard emulsion and a tangy lime aioli,<br />

with a soy reduction and crispy taro root<br />

chips. Brussels sprouts “Caesar” is prepared<br />

with fried caper popcorn, hard Spanish<br />

Manchego, orange wedges and blue cheese.<br />

The menu features an astonishingly<br />

delectable Beef Tartar with yolk, toasted<br />

nori powder, ginger, soy, bird’s eye chillies,<br />

peanuts and cilantro and served with potato<br />

chips. Try the Curried Oxtail with dukkhaseasoned<br />

(Egyptian spice blend) sweet potato<br />

gnocchi, candied ginger cream, parsnip chips<br />

and curried tomato butter or Lamb Neck<br />

Fries with hand-cut skinny fries, tamarind<br />

raita, tandoori salsa, feta cheese and aromatic<br />

Rogan Josh gravy.<br />

Sharing plates and appetizers have<br />

become the contemporary entrée, with<br />

tapas, cicchetti, meze, and other small tastes<br />

popping up on menus. Call it the era of the<br />

curated tasting menu, or cloud nine, for those<br />

diners who want to nosh on it all. Expect to<br />

order too much, and finish it all anyway.<br />

I asked White about why the restaurant is<br />

named Gilt. She explained how they loved the<br />

many iterations of the meaning of the word<br />

and how they applied to the restaurant: gilt as<br />

in "covered thinly with gold leaf or gold paint"<br />

(the restaurant has gold throughout it); as a<br />

homonym implying "all things guilty" (guilty<br />

pleasures); a female baby pig (pork being a<br />

staple and base of their cooking) and as a<br />

synonym for premium.<br />

Expect pleasant surprises.<br />

Gilt Restaurant<br />

305 King Street West, Kitchener<br />

giltrestaurant.ca<br />

519-954-6100<br />

sunday to wednesday 11:30 am–10:00 pm<br />

thursday to saturday 11:30 am–late<br />

<strong>Eatdrink</strong> Food Editor and Writer at Large, BRYAN<br />

LAVERY brings years of experience in the restaurant<br />

and hospitality industry, as a chef, restaurateur and<br />

consultant. Always on the lookout for the stories that<br />

<strong>Eatdrink</strong> should be telling, he helps shape the magazine<br />

both under his byline and behind the scenes.<br />

Sample delicious local eats,<br />

meet inspiring producers and<br />

marvel at the tempting array<br />

of fresh and artisanal edibles.<br />

From farm to table, pork to pies<br />

to pints, discover more<br />

in Perth County!<br />

restaurants<br />

farm gates<br />

food shops<br />

Find us, follow us!<br />

#DiscoverMore #PerthCounty<br />

@PerthCoTourism<br />

perthcountytourism.ca


10 |<strong>August</strong>/<strong>September</strong> <strong>2018</strong><br />

Restaurants<br />

Ramen Renaissance<br />

Crafty Ramen in Guelph<br />

eatdrink.ca |@eatdrinkmag<br />

By ANDREW COPPOLINO<br />

The idea of ramen has captured the popular<br />

culinary imagination. But the Japanese bowl<br />

of noodles, meats, vegetables and a soulsoothing<br />

broth isn’t as widely available in<br />

<strong>Waterloo</strong> Region and <strong>Wellington</strong> County as is, say, pho,<br />

the Vietnamese soup. Unless you consider the throngs<br />

of soup-slurpers who descend on tiny Crafty Ramen in<br />

downtown Guelph.<br />

The Macdonell Street restaurant, a diminutive 500<br />

square-foot space of repurposed workshop benches and<br />

old school floors, conjures images of the joints that the<br />

late Anthony Bourdain trekked to in his explorations<br />

of food and its cultural and sociological idiosyncrasies.<br />

The noodle shop is first-to-market in Guelph, and many<br />

other places nearby, too. Ten or so stools and a few<br />

tables — only 26 seats — provide for about 130 people<br />

a day. “The busiest day was about 280 bowls,” says<br />

co-owner Jared Ferrall. “It’s hotter weather now and<br />

the students are gone, but we still do good numbers.”<br />

Summer heat has prompted the appearance of four<br />

new cold bowls on the menu: a classic Hiyashi Chuka,<br />

a summer broth popular throughout Japan, and three<br />

Mazemen ramen of yuzu chicken, vegan sesame, and<br />

pulled pork with onsen tamago (soft-cooked egg). “We<br />

are making a different thicker noodle for these, that has<br />

more chew to it,” says Jared.<br />

Crafty Ramen opened in February 2017. The<br />

restaurant is the culmination of the efforts of an<br />

industrious pair: Jared and Miki Ferrall. The couple<br />

met in Vancouver. Jared, originally from England,


<strong>Eatdrink</strong>: The Local Food & Drink Magazine<br />

was doing his apprenticeship and Miki, from<br />

Iwate in northern Japan, and who had got<br />

her first job in a ramen shop at age 16, was<br />

working. “She was learning English, and I was<br />

doing my Red Seal,” Jared says. Since then,<br />

they’ve travelled the world. They spent four<br />

years exploring the food in Japan: Jared did<br />

some time in Ramsay and Ducasse kitchens<br />

in Tokyo; they both attended Yamato Ramen<br />

School. Having absorbed Japan and toyed<br />

with the idea (coming very close to sealing<br />

the deal) of opening a food catering van in<br />

Tokyo, they ended up in Guelph, where they<br />

share responsibilities for operating Crafty<br />

Ramen. The name has a whimsical quality,<br />

Jared acknowledges. “It just seemed to fit. We<br />

wanted to stay playful but highlight that what<br />

we do is crafted.”<br />

Crafty is simple too, he adds. “People come<br />

in, order, pay, sit down, eat, and leave.” That’s<br />

part and parcel of the rogue element in the<br />

sociology of ramen shops. “While there’s a lot<br />

of ramen in the Toronto area, there is nothing<br />

like this here… We’re in the tradition of a<br />

true ramen shop that’s innovative and chefdriven.<br />

Each wants to use the ingredients of<br />

the particular region. Actually, it’s the rogues<br />

of society in Japan that open up ramen shops.<br />

Everyone wants to do it their own way and<br />

has their own secret ingredients. That’s our<br />

style too. We don’t have seafood, for instance,<br />

and we use local producers for meats and<br />

vegetables. That’s our way.” Certainly driven<br />

by local ingredients, Crafty is no-frills,<br />

allowing staff to focus on food prep rather<br />

than running dishes to tables. You order up<br />

front and sit at a stool, and, actually, the space<br />

is larger than restaurants in Japan, says Jared.<br />

“There, you basically walk into a vending<br />

machine to buy a ticket.”<br />

The noodles you’re eating at Crafty come<br />

from a clunky-looking noodle machine<br />

imported from Shinagawa, Tokyo. “The<br />

machines are a really cool little business,”<br />

Jared says of the green contraption. “A father<br />

and son make them. You visit and they put<br />

it together for you.” With the machine they<br />

make thin noodles, and occasionally fat ones<br />

for specials, but there is not a wide range: the<br />

philosophy is to do a few things very well. They<br />

blend Canadian all-purpose flour and a hard<br />

bread flour from K2 Mill (a 126-year-old milling<br />

operation in Beeton, Ontario, northeast of<br />

Orangeville), which, he says, is a strong and<br />

flavourful flour. The other key to great ramen<br />

is potassium carbonate and sodium carbonate<br />

REAL. LOCAL. FOOD.<br />

EXPERIENCE THE<br />

TASTE OF HURON.<br />

WIN<br />

A GUIDED<br />

FOOD<br />

ADVENTURE<br />

FOR 4 PEOPLE.<br />

ENTER ONLINE<br />

Enter and Purchase Tours Online:<br />

tasteofhuron.com


12 |<strong>August</strong>/<strong>September</strong> <strong>2018</strong><br />

eatdrink.ca |@eatdrinkmag<br />

(kansui, or lye water) — essential for a proper<br />

ramen noodle. “The alkalinity keeps the noodles<br />

from getting soft in the broth. It’s just wheat, water,<br />

kansui and salt.” The proof is often in the broth and<br />

rogues need not apply there. All the broths are made<br />

in-house and for assistance with that Crafty turns to<br />

neighbouring Trotter’s Butcher Shop for duck bones,<br />

pork bones and smoked pork trotters. The restaurant<br />

uses a reverse osmosis process to extract maximum<br />

flavour in making the broths.<br />

Good ramen combines noodles, broth, fat,<br />

toppings and tare, an ingredient that contains soy<br />

sauce, miso or black vinegar. That tare, a flavour<br />

base ingredient, brings saltiness to ramen along<br />

with added umami, and a touch of sweet, sour, or<br />

spice depending on its composition. There can be a<br />

dozen or more ingredients, which means gigantic<br />

flavour. You might notice a dollop of it go into the<br />

bottom of your bowl in ramen shops. Such tradition<br />

is good, and the process is complex: days of brining<br />

and simmering kombu, first in 60-degree water for<br />

an hour to infuse seaweed flavour; then the kombu<br />

is removed and shiitakes are introduced for an hour<br />

before cherry tomatoes get their hour. It takes time<br />

and training to hit the correct flavour notes.<br />

“The most popular ramen has been the Meat<br />

Lovers,” Jared says. That’s pork three ways with a<br />

side of tender chicken: pork jowl, pork chashu and<br />

salt- and sugar-cured pulled pork shoulder with<br />

12-hour brined and one-hour 73-degree sous-vide<br />

chicken breast. “We use modern techniques, though<br />

we’re not modernist cuisine. Just good food,” he<br />

says. There are also green onion, pickled shiitakes<br />

and burnt sesame oil in a rich chicken, pork, and<br />

duck broth. There’s a spicy vegan tofu mapo ramen<br />

with baby bok choy, sesame tare and vegetable<br />

broth. Also on the menu is a delicate and light gyoza<br />

snack that is packed with big flavour. It’s a specialty<br />

of Miki’s and a family recipe that she has been<br />

making since she was quite young. Her karaage,<br />

Japanese fried chicken, is delicious as well and is<br />

from a family recipe: crunchy outside and tender<br />

and moist inside with a terrific crispy kimchi mayo.<br />

The dish contains chicken thighs marinated in soy,<br />

ginger and garlic for two hours. The marinade then<br />

becomes the liquid for the potato starch-corn starch<br />

batter for those little crispy bits on the outside. The<br />

dipping sauce is a Kewpie mayo, with crispy bits.<br />

And yet it’s not authentic, Ferrall is quick to<br />

stress, citing a simple fact that people forget when<br />

looking for “authenticity” — after all, we’re 10,000<br />

kilometers from Japan. Make it as authentic as<br />

possible, though: slurp the noodles and do it<br />

quickly. There’s a practical reason for this: the quick<br />

and simultaneous aspiration of air with the thin<br />

noodles captures the broth so it doesn’t fall away.


<strong>Eatdrink</strong>: The Local Food & Drink Magazine<br />

Sip. Savour. Stroll.<br />

Soak up the sun and<br />

experience the warm lake<br />

breeze on one of Elgin’s<br />

many outdoor patios.<br />

SoLo on Main<br />

As the two-year mark for the business<br />

approaches, the Ferralls say they’re looking<br />

for a venue to open another Crafty Ramen —<br />

possibly in Kitchener — but they have to be<br />

sure they can address properly the details of<br />

a dish, from the noodles to the broth to the<br />

meats and seasoning.<br />

Small may be traditional, but that doesn’t<br />

make it easy. Ramen expectations, though<br />

there are relatively few local examples, are<br />

high when it comes to deliciousness framed<br />

within the right atmosphere and ambiance<br />

of the restaurant. Currently, they’ve hit the<br />

mark, he acknowledges. “It’s a successful<br />

model for business, but we still have to strive<br />

for really good food at a reasonable price.”<br />

Crafty Ramen<br />

17 Macdonell Street, Guelph<br />

info@craftyramen.com<br />

519-824-8330<br />

sunday–monday: closed<br />

tuesday–thursday: 11:30 am–9 pm<br />

friday–saturday: 11:30 am–9:30 pm<br />

ANDREW COPPOLINO is a Kitchener-based writer<br />

and broadcaster. He is publisher of <strong>Waterloo</strong> Region Eats<br />

(waterlooregioneats.com) a longstanding online resource<br />

dedicated to food, dining, restaurants, chefs, sustainability<br />

and agriculture. Andrew also serves as a regional<br />

<strong>Eatdrink</strong> Editorial Consultant.<br />

Windjammer Inn<br />

Kettle Creek Inn<br />

Visit savourelgin.ca<br />

to plan your next<br />

culinary adventure in<br />

Elgin County!


14 |<strong>August</strong>/<strong>September</strong> <strong>2018</strong><br />

eatdrink.ca |@eatdrinkmag<br />

Sponsored By<br />

Road Trips<br />

Stratford’s Gastro Scene<br />

Where to Eat and Drink in <strong>2018</strong><br />

By BRYAN LAVERY<br />

Renowned for its annual Shakespeare<br />

Festival, its gastro scene and<br />

hometown boy Justin Bieber, Stratford<br />

is anything but a quiet little town.<br />

Over the past couple of decades, Stratford’s<br />

been building a reputation as an innovational,<br />

entrepreneurial culinary destination.<br />

This year there are new kids on the culinary<br />

scene like Planet Diner and The Common.<br />

York Street Kitchen was purchased by the<br />

Windsor Hospitality Group and has moved<br />

back to a larger revitalized space on York<br />

Street, previously occupied by the former<br />

Linleys Food Shop. Founder Susie Palach will<br />

be sorely missed. Edison’s Café Bar, where all<br />

food is prepared in-house using fresh, organic<br />

ingredients, has become a charming hub.<br />

While you are in the area be sure to explore<br />

the bucolic countryside in and around Perth<br />

and Oxford Counties. Take in the small towns<br />

of St Marys, Shakespeare, Woodstock and<br />

New Hamburg. Drop by the Stratford Tourism<br />

Alliance for tickets to self-guided culinary<br />

tours like the Bacon & Ale Trail and Chocolate<br />

Trail, which are available all year round.<br />

Stratford is awash with culinary “hubs”<br />

where locals, visitors, chefs, farmers, artists and<br />

Planet Diner<br />

Stratford Chefs School’s annual Long Table Dinner, 2017<br />

artisans gather, such as Market Square, Your<br />

Local Market Co-op, the Local Community Food<br />

Centre, Stratford Farmers’ Market at the Agriplex<br />

(on Saturdays) and the Slow Food Farmers’<br />

Market (on Sundays). There are many great<br />

retailers like Bradshaws Kitchen Detail, Downie<br />

Street Bakehouse (“Really Good Bread from the<br />

Wrong Side of the Tracks”), Watson’s Chelsea<br />

Bazaar and the Milky Whey Fine Cheese Shop.<br />

Windsor Hospitality Group’s Executive Chef<br />

Ryan O’Donnell is excited about the synergies<br />

the culinary team is creating with The Prune,<br />

Bar One Fifty One, Mercer Kitchen and York<br />

Street Kitchen, and how they help create<br />

better and better food. “This flexibility to<br />

react to the best products, as well as synergies<br />

between all our restaurants in Stratford, will<br />

be the most exciting part of the new Prune in<br />

my opinion,” says O’Donnell.<br />

Anne Campion’s Revel on Market Square is a<br />

favourite go-to for a cup of Las Chicas del Café<br />

coffee, sourced from the owners’ family-run<br />

farm in the Nicaraguan rainforest. We love the<br />

custom-made communal table. On Downie<br />

Street The Pulp, Stratford’s plant-based “fresh<br />

bar,” features cold-pressed juice, smoothies and<br />

clean eating with vegan and gluten- and dairyfree<br />

options. Grounded is a newer business,


<strong>Eatdrink</strong>: The Local Food & Drink Magazine<br />

<strong>August</strong>/<strong>September</strong> <strong>2018</strong> | 15<br />

WHY FIT IN,<br />

WHEN YOU CAN STAND OUT?<br />

A new level of performance and sophistication, the next<br />

generation of Lexus ES arrives in <strong>September</strong>.<br />

ELEGANT TO EXHILARATING<br />

PERFORMANCE<br />

THE ALL NEW<br />

2019 LEXUS ES<br />

3131 KING STREET EAST, KITCHENER<br />

519 748-9668 | HEFFNERLEXUS.CA


eatdrink.ca |@eatdrinkmag<br />

Chef Jamie Crosby (right) of The Prune<br />

What’s Your Flavour?<br />

Amaretto<br />

Cherry<br />

Follow us to see what’s fresh today!<br />

Fresh & Frozen<br />

Eat-In or Take-Out<br />

45+ Soup Flavours<br />

Vegan, Dairy Free &<br />

Gluten Free Options<br />

No additives or<br />

preservatives<br />

Tuesday–Friday 11–6 • Saturday 11–4<br />

Sunday 10–2 at Stratford Slow Food Market<br />

98 <strong>Wellington</strong> St., Stratford 519.497.5167<br />

soupsurreal.com<br />

creating fresh, healthy, plant-based food using<br />

whole ingredients. At the time of writing,<br />

Grounded is set to open a storefront on Erie St.<br />

Shakespeare Brewing Company is the<br />

newest craft brewer in the area, and uses<br />

100% local ingredients. The owners believe the<br />

local terroir is reflected in the flavours of their<br />

craft beers. Black Swan Brewing Company<br />

continues to create innovative seasonal<br />

flavours in addition to the core products: EPA,<br />

IPA and porter. You might want to sample the<br />

refreshing Raspberry Wild Child, made in the<br />

German sour beer style.<br />

After 30 years, Chef Bryan Steele has<br />

left The Prune. He continues to be a senior<br />

cookery instructor at Stratford Chefs School.<br />

Lamentably, Rundles and Monforte on<br />

<strong>Wellington</strong> are gone. Here are a few of my<br />

recommendations, in alphabetical order, of<br />

where to eat and drink in <strong>2018</strong>.<br />

Bar One Fifty One at The Prune has a relaxed<br />

and elegant vibe, the perfect backdrop for<br />

signature cocktails and a varied wine list.<br />

This season the focus is on seafood with an<br />

emphasis on small plates and raw bar offerings.<br />

Bubbles and Oysters anyone? 151 Albert Street,<br />

519-271-5052, theprune.ca /bar-one-fifty-one<br />

Bijou’s farm-to-table blackboard pre-theatre<br />

dinner menu is prix fixe. Mark and Linda<br />

Simone purchased the legacy restaurant four<br />

years ago, and added a new entrance off of<br />

<strong>Wellington</strong> Street and a small bar in the front<br />

area. Chef Roddy Eastman and his team also<br />

offer a globally-inspired tapas bar menu of<br />

small plates (available after 7: 30 p.m., 7:45<br />

p.m. Friday and Saturday). 105 Erie Street,<br />

(2nd entrance off of <strong>Wellington</strong> Street), 519-<br />

273-5000, bijourestaurant.com


<strong>Eatdrink</strong>: The Local Food & Drink Magazine<br />

The Bruce is at the high end of the dining<br />

spectrum. Chef Arron Carley, sous chef<br />

Christopher Howard and pastry chef Erin<br />

Negus define “New Canadiana” by using only<br />

ingredients found in Canada, enhanced by<br />

produce from their own farm and gardens.<br />

Prix fixe menus (3-courses for $95.00 with a<br />

<strong>August</strong>/<strong>September</strong> <strong>2018</strong> | 17<br />

celebrating 122 years in stratford<br />

The Bruce<br />

$45.00 optional wine pairing) or the avantgarde<br />

“Fauna” tasting menu (7-courses for<br />

$115.00 with a $65.00 optional wine pairing)<br />

are laden with ingredients which the term<br />

“New Canadiana” evokes. Breakfast, lunch and<br />

Sunday brunch are à la carte, and The Lounge<br />

offers a separate menu. There is a stylish<br />

courtyard for al fresco dining. 89 Parkview<br />

Drive, 855-708-7100, thebruce.ca<br />

The Common is located in the refurbished<br />

space previously occupied by Monforte on <strong>Wellington</strong>.<br />

Chef Tim Otsuki offers a mix of global<br />

comfort food. Think, Imam Bayildi stuffed<br />

roasted eggplant with sweet onions, peppers,<br />

spicy chickpeas, rice pilaf and house yogurt; or<br />

Hot Spatchcock Chicken Sandwich with bread<br />

pudding stuffing and gravy; or Roast Hoisin<br />

Pork Tenderloin<br />

with Szechuan stirfry<br />

vegetables on<br />

The Common<br />

steamed rice pilaf.<br />

The tagline is “Eat<br />

Without Borders.”<br />

There is a newly<br />

appointed patio for<br />

outdoor drinking<br />

and dining. 80 <strong>Wellington</strong><br />

Street, 519-<br />

271-0999, thecommonstratford.com<br />

Foster’s Inn is<br />

Stratford’s original<br />

heritage boutique<br />

inn, situated in a


18 |<strong>August</strong>/<strong>September</strong> <strong>2018</strong><br />

um<br />

A restaurant inspired by<br />

local ingredients.<br />

Run by workers.<br />

Owned by workers.<br />

Shared by the Community.<br />

eatdrink.ca |@eatdrinkmag<br />

um<br />

7 Days a Week<br />

Reservations Recommended<br />

64 <strong>Wellington</strong> St, Stratford<br />

redrabbitresto.com<br />

519.305.6464<br />

@redrabbitresto<br />

global tapas with local ingredients<br />

fresh cocktails<br />

Perfect for dinner before or snacks after the show<br />

Wednesday–Sunday from 5pm<br />

85 Downie St, Stratford<br />

(next to Avon Theatre)<br />

519.305.8585<br />

85Downie.com<br />

Foster’s Inn<br />

turn-of-the-century building two doors from the<br />

Avon Theatre off of Market Square. Restaurateur<br />

Craig Foster prides himself on the authenticity<br />

of the hospitality and service. The inn features<br />

nine individually-appointed guest rooms, a<br />

restaurant, and a tiny cocktail bar. Foster’s is a<br />

go-to for mouth-watering char-grilled steaks and<br />

burgers as well as re-imagined comfort foods<br />

made with local ingredients. There is a House<br />

Cured and Cold-Smoked Pork Tenderloin and a<br />

Coconut Green Curry Tofu. 111 Downie Street,<br />

519-271-1119, fostersinn.com<br />

This season Mercer Kitchen + Beer Hall +<br />

Hotel has some great new menu items, while<br />

retaining some tried and true signatures. The<br />

casual brasserie-style ambience is inspired by the<br />

concept of izakaya — informal Japanese beer<br />

pubs. There are 15 draft lines and over 120 bottles,<br />

including international award-winners and<br />

hard-to-find one-offs. Menus showcase items<br />

that are meant to<br />

be shared communally<br />

and are<br />

perfect for the<br />

lively, dynamic<br />

atmosphere.<br />

Try the House-<br />

Smoked Salmon<br />

Board with<br />

herbed chèvre,<br />

red onion, fried<br />

capers and roe, or<br />

a choice of Banh<br />

Mi, or Korean<br />

Mercer Kitchen<br />

BBQ-glazed Crispy Chicken Rice Bowl. 104-108<br />

Ontario Street, 519-271-9202, mercerhall.ca<br />

The Mill Stone features a globally-inspired<br />

all-day menu, bolstered by a rotating selection<br />

of feature dishes that focus on light and<br />

healthy fare with plant-based and gluten-free<br />

options. New this year is a nose-to-tail feature<br />

that explores the hidden gems of whole<br />

animal butchery. Sweetbreads, chicken hearts


<strong>Eatdrink</strong>: The Local Food & Drink Magazine<br />

<strong>August</strong>/<strong>September</strong> <strong>2018</strong> | 19<br />

“A fun place to shop<br />

for housewares and gifts!”<br />

Create a completely original tablescape<br />

every time by mixing and matching<br />

blue and white patterns.<br />

Classically Beautiful.<br />

The Mill Stone<br />

and cod tongues are some of the dishes in<br />

store. This high-energy bistro features locallybrewed<br />

beer on tap and a varied bottle list,<br />

with a focus on Canadian wines and a refined<br />

international selection. Ontario Street, 519-<br />

273-5886, themillstone.ca<br />

Okazu 85 Downie is Stratford’s hot spot<br />

for delicious chef-inspired cuisine and is the<br />

perfect after theatre or late-night stop. Stop<br />

by for dinner<br />

to taste global<br />

fusion prepared<br />

with local<br />

inspiration,<br />

or for fresh<br />

cocktails like<br />

the Yuzu Sour<br />

or Mermaid<br />

Margarita,<br />

shaken or<br />

Okazu 85 Downie<br />

stirred by the<br />

fabulous staff<br />

until the early<br />

hours. Chef de cuisine Angela Murphy and Ben<br />

O’Brien spin a modern twist on dim sum and<br />

tapas featuring items like rustic-style Perth<br />

pork paté with fruit chutney; spice-rubbed<br />

pork belly with sticky rice; and potato curry<br />

with roasted cauliflower, house masala, pickled<br />

greens and lentil salad. 85 Downie Street, 519-<br />

305-8585, OkazuSnackBar.com<br />

Pazzo Taverna and Pizzeria. The street-level<br />

taverna offers rustic Italian-inspired cuisine<br />

in a contemporary setting overlooking the<br />

Avon River. The pizzeria, located in the historic<br />

building's cellar, is renowned for its buildyour-own<br />

thin crust pizza. Chef Yva Santini is<br />

celebrating her eleventh season at the 21-year-old<br />

restaurant. All of the incredible pastas are made<br />

in-house. Santini showcases simple, natural<br />

flavours of locally-sourced meats and produce in<br />

the Italian tradition, combined with a diverse list<br />

of Canadian and imported wines by the glass and<br />

bottle. There is a charming street-side patio. 70<br />

Ontario Street, 519-273-6666, pazzo.ca<br />

WATSON’S<br />

CHELSEA BAZAAR<br />

84 Ontario St. Stratford<br />

watsonsofstratford.com<br />

519-273-1790<br />

The Ultimate Family Fun Weekend<br />

Ontario Garlic & Artisan Market<br />

featuring over 60 vendors<br />

• Exclusive Tastings pairing artisanal<br />

cheeses with wines, beers and spirits<br />

• Cooking Demonstrations<br />

• Educational Forums<br />

• Live Entertainment<br />

<strong>September</strong> 8th & 9th<br />

Stratford Rotary Complex, 353 McCarthy Road<br />

Admission $10/day or $15 for 2-day pass<br />

Children 12 & under free<br />

Free parking and bike valet service


20 |<strong>August</strong>/<strong>September</strong> <strong>2018</strong><br />

The Planet Diner, with candy-apple red<br />

upholstered booths and 50s vibe, is warm<br />

and welcoming with enthusiastic and wellinformed<br />

staff. Owner Dee Christensen says,<br />

“This is where herbivores can bring their<br />

carnivore friends.” Most items on the menu<br />

are derived from plant-based foods, with a<br />

few meat-based options. There’s just nothing<br />

like the Chick’un burger made in-house with<br />

vegan buffalo butter. Try the cashew-based<br />

banana split, bound to be a hit with die-hard<br />

ice cream lovers. 118 Downie Street, 519-305-<br />

5888, theplanetdiner.com<br />

The Prune has been a Stratford favourite since<br />

1977. Chef de cuisine Jamie Crosby is leading<br />

the culinary team. He was formerly chef de<br />

Cuisine at The Little Inn in Bayfield, and most<br />

recently chef de partie at restaurateur Jenn<br />

Agg’s Grey Gardens in Toronto. Crosby and<br />

sous chef Mike Booth are planning on keeping<br />

the menu fluid this season by changing it daily,<br />

if necessary, to showcase the best of Perth<br />

County’s bounty as it arrives at the kitchen<br />

door. There is a prix fixe menu, offering three<br />

courses for $79.00 or four courses for $89.00<br />

or a six-course “Carte Blanche” for $109.00.<br />

Wine pairing packages are available. 151 Albert<br />

Street, 519-271-5052, theprune.com<br />

Raja Fine Indian Cuisine<br />

Raja Fine Indian Cuisine is the definitive<br />

place for authentic Northern Indian food in<br />

Stratford. Raja offers upscale Indian cuisine<br />

in sophisticated and elegant surroundings,<br />

and knowledgeable, well-trained staff. The<br />

service is white linen, deferential and friendly.<br />

Foods are prepared from scratch with fresh<br />

ingredients. The heat quotient of dishes can<br />

be adjusted to guest preferences. Raja offers<br />

milder Indian fare such as Butter Chicken,<br />

Korma, and Tikka Masala. 10 George Street<br />

West, 519-271-3271, rajastratford.ca<br />

The Red Rabbit. “A locally sourced<br />

restaurant, run by workers, owned by<br />

eatdrink.ca |@eatdrinkmag<br />

The Red Rabbit<br />

workers, shared by the community,” sums up<br />

the three-year-old resto’s ethos. Jonathan<br />

Naiman is now the head chef with Sean<br />

Collins overseeing the kitchen as executive<br />

chef. Chef Collins terms the cooking at Red<br />

Rabbit as “flavour first, ingredient driven,”<br />

and his motto is, “We cook food we like to<br />

eat.” The team has crafted an evolving menu<br />

of well-executed comfort foods. The fixed price<br />

menu returns for pre-theatre dining Tuesday<br />

to Saturday, 5-7 p.m., with the “After 7” menu<br />

available from 7:30 p.m. onward Thursday<br />

to Saturday evenings. The Red Rabbit is<br />

known for Colonel Collins fried chicken and<br />

waffles (available at lunch). Its secret recipe<br />

of thirteen herbs and spices, maple syrup<br />

and carrot hot sauce has made it a Stratford<br />

culinary staple. 64 <strong>Wellington</strong> Street, 519-305-<br />

6464, redrabbitresto.com<br />

Revival House and The Belfry is Stratford’s<br />

home for live music, dining and events, and<br />

it continues to play host to many touring and<br />

local Canadian artists throughout the summer<br />

season. Chef Loreena Miller and culinary team<br />

are passionate about creating and serving<br />

foods that express the depth of Perth County’s<br />

food culture. Recent menus have revived<br />

French-Canadian style cuisine, with an added<br />

modern sensibility. Upstairs, The Belfry<br />

features a 60-seat gastro-lounge and a VIP<br />

balcony called Confession. There is a 48-seat<br />

garden terrace-oasis beside the Brunswick<br />

Revival House


<strong>Eatdrink</strong>: The Local Food & Drink Magazine<br />

Street entrance. High Tea and Sunday Brunch<br />

add another layer of temptation to the<br />

offerings. 70 Brunswick Street, 519-273-3424,<br />

revival.house<br />

Romeos Corner Café, a friendly, familyoperated<br />

restaurant, features comfortable<br />

booths and tables and is within walking<br />

distance of the Festival Theatre. There is<br />

Romeos Corner Café<br />

an extensive breakfast menu with omelets,<br />

skillets and a “Benvolio Benny” with<br />

mushrooms, spinach and caramelized onions.<br />

A menu of elevated comfort foods is also<br />

offered for lunch and dinner including savoury<br />

Chicken Pot Pie, Ontario grass-fed Beef<br />

<strong>August</strong>/<strong>September</strong> <strong>2018</strong> | 21<br />

Burgers and Mac N Cheese. There are some<br />

tables for outdoor dining. 584 Ontario Street,<br />

519-272-2777<br />

York Street Kitchen is Stratford’s<br />

quintessential sandwich shop and has been<br />

a local institution since 1989. This popular<br />

diner and takeaway offer fabulous build<br />

your own “Show Stoppers” sandwiches. Try<br />

“The Mennonite” sandwich with Bauman’s<br />

Summer Sausage, honey mustard, mayo,<br />

cheddar, corn relish, lettuce and tomato on<br />

sourdough bread. Other options include<br />

“Not Sandwiches”, “Swell Sides” and housemade<br />

“Sweets”. The YSK’s famous take-out<br />

window is perfect for your picnic in the<br />

park. New location is in the former Linleys<br />

Food Shop at 51 York Street, 519-273-7041,<br />

yorkstreetkitchen.com<br />

<strong>Eatdrink</strong> Food Editor and Writer at Large, BRYAN<br />

LAVERY brings years of experience in the restaurant<br />

and hospitality industry, as a chef, restaurateur and<br />

consultant. Always on the lookout for the stories that<br />

<strong>Eatdrink</strong> should be telling, he helps shape the magazine<br />

both under his byline and behind the scenes.<br />

WHERE TASTE REIGNS SUPREME<br />

FINE INDIAN CUISINE<br />

Stratford<br />

10 George St. W.<br />

519-271-3271<br />

Kitchener<br />

725 Belmont Ave. W.<br />

519-208-2811<br />

rajaindiancuisine.ca


22 |<strong>August</strong>/<strong>September</strong> <strong>2018</strong><br />

eatdrink.ca |@eatdrinkmag<br />

The BUZZ<br />

Culinary Community Notes<br />

New and Notable<br />

Compiled by ANDREW COPPOLINO, BRYAN LAVERY and THE EDITORS<br />

This column consists of regional culinary<br />

information, including a large scoop<br />

of local news and inside information.<br />

There is no charge to be included here,<br />

and we encourage chefs, restaurateurs, brewers,<br />

fundraisers, culinary artisans, farmers — and<br />

everyone else with information to share — to send<br />

us details. Short and sweet! We want to include as<br />

many items as possible. See the end of this column<br />

for contact details.<br />

Kitchener<br />

Since 1969, Kitchener-<strong>Waterloo</strong> Oktoberfest has<br />

developed its own traditions, becoming the largest<br />

Bavarian festival in North America with the greatest<br />

Thanksgiving Day Parade in Canada. Thousands<br />

of visitors celebrate annually in our Festhallen,<br />

and by attending one or more of our 40 family<br />

and cultural events. Through the celebration of<br />

this spirit of Gemuetlichkeit, the local economy<br />

is stimulated and over 70 charities and not-forprofit<br />

organizations raise funds to support the<br />

high quality of life enjoyed in Kitchener-<strong>Waterloo</strong>.<br />

Tickets for the 50th Anniversary event (October<br />

5–13) are on sale now. oktoberfest.ca<br />

The King-Scott area of downtown Kitchener has<br />

seen several changes in the food landscape of late.<br />

With its low-profile geography, Stonegate Bistro,<br />

located in the subterranean depths of Scott Street<br />

between Duke and King, has closed. The venue had<br />

something of a loyal following and the occasion<br />

to prepare a culinary throwback, whether ironic<br />

or not, every now and then: cedar-plank salmon.<br />

A cryptic sign on the restaurant door says a new<br />

restaurant will be “opening soon,” in typical<br />

restaurant-speak.<br />

At street level and right on top of the former<br />

Stonegate is Elevenses on Scott (elevensesonscott.<br />

com), a café, lunch stop and snack shop that has<br />

recently changed hands. 519-579-7661<br />

Just around the corner on King Street, Sahar<br />

Kitchen Indian has taken over space vacated by the<br />

Korean restaurant Shinla Garden. A few blocks west<br />

is Izna Japanese Donburi House, which at the time<br />

of writing was close to opening.<br />

Legacy Greens is moving to Ontario Street between<br />

Duke and King, helping create a little food hub<br />

for a block or two. It started as a fall and pre-<br />

Christmas “pop-up” greens shop, but its immediate<br />

popularity prompted owner Jordan Dolson to stay<br />

open year-round. Dolson says the move is exciting.<br />

“We had the opportunity to purchase the property<br />

and renovate it to our needs,” Dolson says. The<br />

re-location gave Legacy the chance to build an<br />

accessible entrance and a bifold door to create<br />

both “an outdoor feel” and street-merchandising<br />

opportunity. There’s also a commercial kitchen<br />

in the new space. “For the most part,” Dolson<br />

adds, “we have all the same products and same<br />

prices, but we now have the building block in<br />

place to grow our prepared food options and<br />

retail sales.” That makes it another great addition<br />

to the growing downtown Kitchener food scene.<br />

legacygreensonline.com/<br />

Nearby, Mark’s Caribbean Kitchen and Seafood<br />

has opened at 20 King Street East, a venue for<br />

restaurants that dates to the 1990s. Mark’s is<br />

virtually directly across the street from Rainbow<br />

Caribbean, long a popular place for patties and<br />

other Jamaican fare. A blend of cultures, the kitchen<br />

prepares both a $13 fish and chips and a $36 surf and<br />

turf with lobster. markscaribbeankitchen.ca<br />

The popular Relish Cooking Studio, formerly on<br />

Regina Street in Uptown <strong>Waterloo</strong>, has moved to<br />

90 Victoria Street North in Kitchener in the same<br />

plaza as Cake Box. A kitchen store and culinary<br />

education facility with regular cooking classes (for<br />

summer classes sign up online) and guest chefs,<br />

Relish is owned and operated by Donna-Marie Pye<br />

and Maria Burjoski. Incidentally, the kitchen from<br />

their Regina Street facility is for sale, with asking<br />

price $5,000.<br />

A few blocks away at The Tannery, Balzac’s Coffee<br />

Roasters, with several locations in southwestern


<strong>Eatdrink</strong>: The Local Food & Drink Magazine<br />

Ontario including <strong>Waterloo</strong>, has re-modelled and<br />

re-envisioned the décor in their store neighbouring<br />

Communitech. Balzac’s owner Diane Olsen says<br />

they brightened up the space and are better set<br />

up to hold events and a variety of functions. That<br />

makes it a good place to enjoy their nitro cold brew<br />

coffee (a partnership with Toronto’s Junction Craft<br />

Brewing), on tap and an excellent rich and creamy<br />

sip for the hot summer months. balzacs.com/<br />

locations/kitchener/<br />

Just across the street from the Market and Nova Era<br />

in the new building at the corner of King and Cedar<br />

streets is the awkwardly named Pho Vietnam K &<br />

W. (Along with Salvadoran pupusas, the downtown<br />

has several pho restaurants.) Drop by and say<br />

hello: there’s no phone number or website readily<br />

available yet.<br />

Joining the bevy of international food vendors<br />

upstairs at the Kitchener Market (300 King<br />

Street East) is Naranj Blossom, a Syrian-Turkish<br />

restaurant serving modern fare serving sweet and<br />

savoury fare. Call 519-573-1353.<br />

In the Belmont-Highland food hub, Muya Ethiopian<br />

restaurant is undergoing renovations and an<br />

expansion to the half-dozen or so tables in its<br />

dining room. muyarestaurant.com<br />

The long-time Weston Bakery outlet store on<br />

Victoria closed on July 20. AM Africa restaurant on<br />

King Street East near Rockway Gardens Kitchener<br />

also closed.<br />

Is this the future of dining out? North America's firstof-its-kind<br />

smart dining experience from Graffiti<br />

Market, Red Circle Coffee Co., Red Circle Brewing<br />

Co., Ignite Restaurant Group and Kodisoft Smart<br />

Dining Tables (a state-of-the-art ordering system)<br />

are introducing a new program. Located in Kitchener<br />

at Catalyst137, the technology accelerator (formerly<br />

a tire warehouse on Glasgow St.) is the world's<br />

largest IoT manufacturing hub. Graffiti Market<br />

began with the goal of fuelling the creative spirit<br />

in its staff, customers and community through a<br />

unique mixture of food, art and technology. As North<br />

America’s first-of-its-kind restaurant, retail market,<br />

microbrewery, coffee roaster and bakery, Graffiti<br />

Market has partnered with Kodisoft, providing<br />

patrons with a unique dining environment and a new<br />

way to discover the Graffiti Market menu featuring<br />

Detroit-style pizza, housemade pasta and rotisserie<br />

chicken. Whether you’re immersed in the interactive<br />

Smart Tables, admiring the murals created by local<br />

artists, or simply enjoying one of the in-house made<br />

Red Circle beers or coffees, you’re sure to experience<br />

something unique. graffitimarket.ca<br />

growers & creators of fine lavender products<br />

DISCOVER<br />

Steed & Company Lavender, part of a<br />

45-acre horse farm just outside of Sparta<br />

INDULGE<br />

in our unique handcrafted lavender products<br />

ESCAPE<br />

in the wonderful scent and<br />

calming powers of lavender<br />

519-494-5525<br />

47589 Sparta Line, Sparta<br />

buds@steedandcompany.com<br />

Open Wed–Sat 10-5; Sun 12–4<br />

Mother’s Day to Dec. 19<br />

PLUS June–Labour Day: Tues 10-5<br />

www.steedandcompany.com<br />

Enjoy<br />

Our Annual<br />

Lavender Fairy<br />

Festival<br />

Saturday, Aug. 11<br />

Noon–4pm<br />

Bring<br />

Your Wings!<br />

Farm to table award winning<br />

hand crafted alpine style cheese<br />

Tuesday to Friday 9am–5pm<br />

Saturday 9am–4pm<br />

Stonetown Artisan Cheese<br />

5021 Perth Line 8<br />

St. Marys ON<br />

Gift Baskets &<br />

Gift Boxes<br />

Cheese Trays<br />

Fondue & Raclette<br />

519-229-6856<br />

info@stonetowncheese.com<br />

www.stonetowncheese.com


24 |<strong>August</strong>/<strong>September</strong> <strong>2018</strong><br />

Carly Blasutt and Ryan Murphy’s new iteration<br />

of Public Kitchen & Bar is a stylish independently<br />

owned restaurant in one of Kitchener’s oldest<br />

neighborhoods. They take pride in creating<br />

delicious small, shareable plates and well-crafted<br />

cocktails. They also offer new and old world wines<br />

and an all-Ontario craft beer list at reasonable<br />

prices. kwpublic.com<br />

Jill and Mica Sadler had a vision to create a socially<br />

vibrant dining experience where people could come<br />

together, enjoy great beer, wine, share charcuterie<br />

BIG OR SMALL,<br />

WE CATER ’EM ALL<br />

We specialize in bringing Southern hospitality<br />

and our award-winning food to your special<br />

occasion.<br />

OUR PLACE OR YOURS<br />

Our upstairs event space,<br />

The Lanc Loft, features a<br />

full bar, separate washrooms,<br />

PA system, tables and chairs.<br />

Our fully-mobile food truck has complete<br />

kitchen facilities wherever you need us!<br />

EAT LOCAL. EAT FRESH.<br />

lancsmokehouse.com<br />

574 Lancaster Street West Kitchener ON<br />

Monday–Saturday Open @ 11:30am<br />

Contact our Catering Manager for booking inquiries<br />

519.743.4331 | info@lancsmokehouse.com<br />

eatdrink.ca |@eatdrinkmag<br />

and cheese boards and other locally-sourced eats.<br />

Swine and Vine was born earlier in the year, to<br />

accomplish just that. The charming and updated<br />

premises at 295 Lancaster Street West in Kitchener,<br />

was previously occupied by Public Kitchen & Bar<br />

which has moved a few blocks to Victoria Street.<br />

swineandvine.ca<br />

Unique and delicious, original creations from<br />

master baker Martha Borys, The Lancaster<br />

Co.’s new Crumb Bakehouse offers pies, cakes,<br />

cookies, bars, milk buns, baguettes, beignets,<br />

cornbread, pastries, and breads — both artisan<br />

and rustic, yeast and quick-breads alike. Crumb<br />

Bakehouse currently resides within The Lancaster<br />

Smokehouse, but they have plans to expand the<br />

Bakehouse into its own retail and kitchen space<br />

in the future. lancsmokehouse.com/crumbbakehouse<br />

<strong>Waterloo</strong><br />

Welcome to Meltwich Food Co., <strong>Waterloo</strong>, in the<br />

busy and crowded King-University food hub near<br />

Wilfrid Laurier University. There have been a<br />

couple of grilled cheese shops in the area, and this<br />

one is obviously targetting students. And drawing<br />

on the “Food Co.” Identifier. Pick a sandwich base<br />

and add toppings. There are burgers and Philly<br />

Cheesesteaks too. Cheese and especially Cheddar<br />

plays a big part. meltwich.ca/waterloo/<br />

Also near Laurier, Kitchener’s Metro Restaurant<br />

— long a favourite for schnitzel and Germanic fare<br />

— has taken over Frat Burger, at one time no less<br />

than a Mecca for burger aficionados who loved their<br />

tri-blend of house-ground burger meat that was<br />

cooked a bit pink if you asked for it. The restaurant is<br />

a combination of the two called Metro on King (even<br />

though it is on University Avenue). fratburger.ca<br />

Serving what they describe as 100 per cent plantbased<br />

“power food,” Copper Branch in the heart of<br />

Uptown <strong>Waterloo</strong>, which is really downtown, has<br />

!<br />

da<br />

Windjammer<br />

The<br />

DINE<br />

STAY<br />

Recommended in Where To Eat In Canada for 10 years<br />

Modern Farmhouse Cuisine Wednesday–Sunday<br />

INN<br />

Join us for Dinner & Weekend Brunch<br />

Comfortable Accommodations Year Round<br />

324 Smith St, Port Stanley • 519-782-4173 • www.thewindjammerinn.com


<strong>Eatdrink</strong>: The Local Food & Drink Magazine<br />

been open since early <strong>2018</strong>. “We offer healthy food<br />

that people can feel good about eating and that<br />

tastes great,” says Ashley York, store supervisor.<br />

They serve some playfulness in the form of<br />

zucchini noodles with Sicilian “Coppernata.” Get it?<br />

copperbranch.ca<br />

The appearance of Mashawi <strong>Waterloo</strong> near<br />

Conestoga Mall proves the adage that there is<br />

always room for more shawarma, the ubiquitious<br />

middle eastern roasted meat dish. mashawi.ca<br />

Weber Street Public House, <strong>Waterloo</strong>, has opened<br />

for business, fitting into the former long-time<br />

Benny’s location. Recently, the location at Weber<br />

Street and Lodge was the reappearance of the oncepopular<br />

Mother’s Pizza (which collapsed quickly<br />

after it opened).<br />

Cambridge<br />

In Cambridge — Preston, to be specific — Top<br />

Market Meats has a bricks-and-mortar presence<br />

at 960 King Street East that, while only 650 square<br />

feet, is serving customers a wide selection of<br />

“seasonal goodness,” according to owner and<br />

farmer Leslie Zinger. “It’s everything local: meats,<br />

cheese, eggs, vegetables, fruits, honey, maple syrup<br />

and more.” The selection changes with the seasons,<br />

she adds. “We also work with other local farmers<br />

and online businesses that use Top Market as a<br />

pickup location.” That’s collaborative and smart<br />

business. facebook.com/topmarketmeats/<br />

Nearby at 763 King Street East Cambridge is Wuddup<br />

Dog, a hotdog and sausage joint—what they call<br />

“gourmet street meat”—for dine-in, take-out<br />

and delivery. Needless to say, there are many dog<br />

varieties and fries, onion rings, mac-and-cheese<br />

but also an assortment of deep-fried desserts.<br />

Owner Todd Johns says be on the lookout for them<br />

to be moving to a new location. facebook.com/<br />

wuddupdog/<br />

<strong>August</strong>/<strong>September</strong> <strong>2018</strong> | 25<br />

Guelph & <strong>Wellington</strong> County<br />

A few weeks open and a new Mexican restaurant in<br />

the heart of downtown Guelph is understandably<br />

busy with customers curious about the food. La<br />

Reina — “The Queen” — opened in late June in<br />

the space that was formerly Van Gogh’s Ear at 10<br />

Wyndham Street North. Calling themselves “an<br />

authentic Mexican restaurant,” La Reina draws on<br />

three Mexican-born chefs and serves several familiar<br />

dishes such as flautas, carne asada and ceviche as<br />

well unique dishes such as guajillo-braised lamb<br />

Award Winning<br />

Artisan Cheese<br />

Come Experience Our World!<br />

Visit our cheese shop and sample our<br />

unique handmade cheeses.<br />

See and learn about how cheese is made.<br />

Enjoy the scenery on our 3-generation family farm.<br />

Group tours are available by reservation.<br />

MON-SAT 9-5<br />

445172 Gunn's Hill Rd, Woodstock, ON<br />

519-424-4024<br />

www.gunnshillcheese.ca<br />

Introducing Simple Monthly Meat Delivery.<br />

ORDER<br />

ONLINE<br />

Monthly Meat & Seafood Delivery<br />

(226) 929-1280<br />

trulocal.ca<br />

Enter Code EATDRINK10<br />

to receive 10% OFF


26 |<strong>August</strong>/<strong>September</strong> <strong>2018</strong><br />

borrego, braised venison and avocado and a confit<br />

of peaches, according to owner Bryan Steele (not<br />

the Stratford Chefs School Bryan Steele). There’s<br />

also a late-night menu, cocktails and tequila. And<br />

check out the dessert menu: there’s a suggestion to<br />

“Tip the Kitchen” with either Sol or Modelo beer. “I’ve<br />

seen what the kitchen goes through,” says Steele, a<br />

Humber culinary grad. “This is to show appreciation<br />

for what they do.” lareina519.com/<br />

Head over to Carden Street and you’ll find Tomme<br />

Cheese Shop, which opened in late June with a goal<br />

to fill a gap in the fine cheese market in the city.<br />

They’re currently doing that with about 100 cheeses<br />

in stock from local to international. “And we’re not<br />

finished yet,” says owner Andrew Wheeler. He and<br />

his wife Kim Wheeler came to Guelph and fell in<br />

love with the city about eight years ago. “We love<br />

food and asked what do we need here?” Cheese<br />

was the answer. To go with it, there is just about<br />

everything you need for charcuterie boards or a<br />

stand-alone cheese feast. Tomme has partnered<br />

with Guelph businesses Trotter’s Butcher Shop<br />

and Charcuterie and Polestar Hearth Bakery. As<br />

for the name, which denotes an Alpine cheese, “we<br />

just liked the sound of the word,” says Wheeler.<br />

facebook.com/tommecheeseshop/<br />

We send congratulations to Western Burgers<br />

and Steaks in downtown Guelph, who recently<br />

celebrated their fifth anniversary. That’s makes the<br />

traditional gift given wood, fitting for the modernday<br />

saloon in the former Diplomat Hotel from the<br />

19th century. facebook.com/WesternGuelph<br />

The building on the northwest corner of London<br />

and Woolwich roads, the former home of With the<br />

Grain, is in the process of being refurbished by the<br />

Neighbourhood Group of Companies (NGC). The<br />

group behind Borealis in Kitchener and Guelph, The<br />

Wooly Pub and Miijidaa Café & Bistro are set to open<br />

a new restaurant. Going back to square one, Court<br />

Desautels dove into the site’s history, right back to<br />

the 1890s when it was known as Park Grocery. The<br />

crowning achievement for the NGC is it receiving B<br />

Corp Certification in the spring of 2016. The rigorous<br />

process for qualification requires a company to<br />

focus on its staff, the community and the physical<br />

environment rather than solely chasing profits. NGC<br />

is the largest restaurant group in the world to have<br />

achieved B Corp certification.<br />

The Townships & Beyond<br />

For the first time since it opened in 1975, the St.<br />

Jacobs Farmers’ Market was sold to new owners<br />

in the spring. The Shantz family, which owns<br />

Mercedes Corp. together with more than 40 independent<br />

shareholders, sold the market, along with<br />

eatdrink.ca |@eatdrinkmag<br />

several other businesses to the Schlegel family’s<br />

Schlegel Urban Developments. The new Market<br />

owners said it has been a smooth transition. Open<br />

Thursday & Saturday all year around, and Tuesdays<br />

during summer months too (Until <strong>August</strong> 28, <strong>2018</strong>).<br />

stjacobs.com<br />

In honour of the 35th anniversary of Stratford<br />

Chefs School, work is currently underway on Farm<br />

to Table, a cookbook that pairs 25 Stratford Chefs<br />

School alumni chefs with their favourite food<br />

producers and farmers for a culinary adventure<br />

through Perth and Huron Counties. This stunning<br />

book will not only feature recipes from some of<br />

the region’ s most celebrated graduates of the<br />

Stratford Chefs School, but also includes fascinating<br />

interviews with the chefs conducted by CBC food<br />

columnist Andrew Coppolino and striking imagery<br />

provided by photographer and SCS alumna Terry<br />

Manzo. The book will be launched at the School’s<br />

Season Opener in late October.<br />

The Stratford Chefs School’s <strong>2018</strong> Long Table<br />

Dinner is just around the corner, so don’t miss<br />

your opportunity to join a fun and eclectic group<br />

of people for an exceptional outdoor dining<br />

experience set in the heart of Stratford’s heritage<br />

district. Guests gather around one long beautifully<br />

appointed table to enjoy a four-course dinner of<br />

incredible local food complemented by VQA wines.<br />

Participate in the unexpected. Sunday, <strong>September</strong><br />

9, <strong>2018</strong>, Stratford Market Square, $125 per person<br />

($50 tax receipt) stratfordchef.com<br />

Plan to attend the 12th Annual Stratford Kiwanis<br />

Garlic Festival on <strong>September</strong> 8 and 9 at the<br />

Community Hall in The Stratford Rotary Complex.<br />

Raising funds for local community projects and<br />

supporting local garlic growers, The Kiwanis Club<br />

of Stratford once again will deliver a fun family<br />

weekend, complete with an Ontario Garlic & Artisan<br />

Market, cooking demonstrations by professional<br />

chefs, educational forums, live entertainment,<br />

artisanal cheeses and exclusive wine/spirits/beer<br />

pairings and tastings. stratfordgarlicfestival.com<br />

The Appetite for Words Festival program is<br />

a partnership between the Stratford Writers<br />

Festival and the Stratford Chefs School and<br />

features authors who have written about food, and<br />

fiction writers who allow food to become a strong<br />

component of scenes and/or the characters in<br />

their novels. The best part is, chefs and students<br />

from Stratford Chefs School develop and prepare<br />

inspired menus, matching an author’s readings with<br />

appropriate food at literary dinners and lunches,<br />

so you can taste the words you’re hearing. Appetite<br />

for Words revolves around storytelling and is


<strong>Eatdrink</strong>: The Local Food & Drink Magazine<br />

<strong>August</strong>/<strong>September</strong> <strong>2018</strong> | 27<br />

created for the enthusiastic and curious — anyone<br />

interested in reading, discussing and consuming<br />

food (that’s you, right?). Participate in educational<br />

workshops and tasting sessions with some of<br />

Canada’s best food writing talent and build skills<br />

and increase your knowledge of both the culinary<br />

and literary arts. From a literary picnic-style farm<br />

lunch to a food photography workshop, whet your<br />

appetite for literature. stratfordwritersfestival.<br />

com/literary-events/appetite-for-words-festival<br />

Savour Stratford Chocolate Trail — If you’re a<br />

choco-holic this is the trail for you! What could be<br />

better than spending an afternoon (or two) strolling<br />

the Victorian streets of Stratford and sampling<br />

chocolate? The self-guided Chocolate Trail is<br />

offered year-round and can be used at six of the 27<br />

stops. Tickets are just $30 (+HST) and valid for 1<br />

week from the date of purchase. visitstratford.ca/<br />

chocolatetrail<br />

Savour Stratford Bacon and Ale Trail — Bacon and<br />

Ale — two of life’s greatest creations! This selfguided<br />

walking trail includes vouchers that you<br />

can use at 5 stops. Each voucher will entitle you to<br />

a “tasting” of a unique bacon and ale inspired treat<br />

and the chance to speak to Stratford and area’s<br />

culinary stars while visiting unique restaurants and<br />

retail locations. This trail is offered year-round and<br />

is valid for 1 week from the date of purchase ($30<br />

+HST). visitstratford.ca/bacontrail<br />

Honey Meets Blueberries Meets Cheese — Enjoy<br />

free samples and learn at three great locations,<br />

Saturday, <strong>August</strong> 11. Oxford Honey offers honey<br />

sampling and bee-keeping demonstrations<br />

(9am-4pm). Berrylicious Fruit Farm offers<br />

blueberry sampling, and you can pick your own<br />

and learn about berry benefits (Tours 10am & 2pm).<br />

Gunn's Hill Artisan Cheese is sampling Brie with<br />

honey and blueberries, with face painting and live<br />

music. (Tours 11am & 3pm) Sponsored by Oxford<br />

Fresh. tourismoxford.ca<br />

We want your BUZZ!<br />

Do you have culinary news or upcoming events<br />

that you’d like us to share?<br />

Every issue, <strong>Eatdrink</strong> reaches more than<br />

50,000 readers throughout <strong>Waterloo</strong> Region &<br />

<strong>Wellington</strong> County in print,<br />

and thousands more online.<br />

Get in touch with us at editor@eatdrink.ca and/or<br />

connect directly with our Social Media Editor<br />

Bryan Lavery at bryan@eatdrink.ca<br />

Submission deadline for the next issue is Sept. 5.<br />

something<br />

for<br />

EVERYONE<br />

Cambridge Farmers’<br />

Market<br />

Saturday Year Round<br />

7:00am - 1:00pm<br />

Wednesday Seasonal Market<br />

8:00am - 1:00pm<br />

June 6 - October 3<br />

www.cambridgefarmersmarket.ca<br />

Lunch<br />

Dinner<br />

Catering<br />

DINNER<br />

226.476.4418<br />

295 Lancaster St. W.<br />

Kitchener<br />

swineandvine.ca


28 |<strong>August</strong>/<strong>September</strong> <strong>2018</strong><br />

Spotlight<br />

A Taste of Place<br />

Taste Detours in Guelph<br />

eatdrink.ca |@eatdrinkmag<br />

Taste Detours highlights Guelph’s<br />

history by mapping it from one<br />

culinary experience to the next,<br />

offering an authentic “taste of place.”<br />

Lynn Broughton, founder of Taste Detours<br />

(tastedetours.ca, 1-866-736-6343), spent<br />

eight years with Downtown<br />

Guelph Business Association,<br />

marketing shops, restaurants<br />

and great events in Guelph’s<br />

downtown core. Taste Detours<br />

evolved from her passion<br />

for the downtown, and a<br />

love of culinary events and<br />

tourism. As a certified Food<br />

Tour Professional, she is a<br />

passionate and knowledgeable<br />

guide with the expertise<br />

and savvy to provide a firstrate<br />

experience. Guelph has<br />

stunning architecture, a<br />

strong cultural fabric and a<br />

rich historical background.<br />

Taste Detours literally tells the city's stories<br />

through food and drink experiences.<br />

On a sunny Friday in July, we spent a day<br />

with Lynn. She arrived with iced lattes from<br />

The Common and perfect mini sausage rolls<br />

from Eric the Baker (who comes from a long<br />

line of Basque pastry chefs). We gathered in<br />

front of the John Galt statue at the historic<br />

Market House and received an interesting<br />

tutorial on John Galt and the historic core of<br />

Guelph. From there, we walked along Carden<br />

Street to the charming Atmosphere Café with<br />

its chill vibe and charming patio. We met<br />

hospitable co-owner Nicole Hogg, who has<br />

operated the café for 14 years, and sampled a<br />

delicious bite and craft beer.<br />

Next, we walked to the steps of the Basilica<br />

of Our Lady Immaculate, which tour-goers<br />

can enter. The monumental church contains<br />

decorative carvings and stained glass executed<br />

by skilled craftsmen. We received a briefing on<br />

By BRYAN LAVERY<br />

Court Desautels & Rebecca Gordon<br />

from Miijidaa Café & Bistro,<br />

with Lynn Broughton<br />

from Taste Detours.<br />

the historical significance of the nearby Albion<br />

Hotel and that part of the tour ended with<br />

a lengthy discussion about the interesting<br />

history of Sleeman’s Brewery.<br />

Our tour continued on to Cork Street and<br />

into Guelph Caribbean Cuisine for a chat<br />

with co-owner Lorenza. We<br />

enjoyed a delectable double<br />

(two pieces of fried dough)<br />

with a sautéed savoury<br />

chickpea and spice mixture<br />

in the centre — the ultimate<br />

Trinidadian street food.<br />

At our next stop, Miijidaa<br />

Café & Bistro (from the<br />

Ojibway language meaning<br />

“let’s eat” or “bon appetit”),<br />

we met Beverage Manager<br />

Rebecca Gordon and Court<br />

Desautels, Group Leader &<br />

CEO of the Neighbourhood<br />

Group of Companies, who<br />

explained their strong<br />

emphasis on Canadian-inspired offerings with<br />

local ingredients. We sampled Welsh Griddle<br />

cakes with wild blueberry preserve and housechurned<br />

butter, as well as piri piri marinated<br />

cauliflower with yogurt blue cheese dip.<br />

We stopped in next door at Refresh Juice<br />

for an invigorating carrot, arugula, lemon and<br />

ginger cold-pressed juice known as the Eye<br />

Opener. The tour wound down at <strong>Wellington</strong><br />

Cakes on charming Douglas Street, where we<br />

savoured a decadent sweet meringue-based<br />

macaron. Owner Anne Forestell is connected<br />

to the early city’s history. Her great-great-greatgreat<br />

grandfather Felix Hanlon was one of the<br />

so-called “27 boys” who accompanied John Galt<br />

to Guelph and helped clear the land that became<br />

the city centre. I felt we'd come full circle.<br />

BRYAN LAVERY is <strong>Eatdrink</strong> Food Editor and Writer at<br />

Large.


<strong>Eatdrink</strong>: The Local Food & Drink Magazine<br />

<strong>August</strong>/<strong>September</strong> <strong>2018</strong> | 29<br />

Sandwich Brewing Co. | Windsor<br />

History pours out of this place,<br />

on the Barrels Bottles & Brews Trail.<br />

Uncover behind-the-scenes development and production<br />

of dozens of area distilleries and breweries. Tap rooms and<br />

tasting lounges welcome you with open bottles.<br />

Get your BBB Passport and info at: barrelsbottlesbrews.ca<br />

#BARRELTRAIL | #BREWERYQG | visitwindsoressex.com


30 |<strong>August</strong>/<strong>September</strong> <strong>2018</strong><br />

Spirits<br />

Taking it Slow<br />

Willibald Farm Distillery in Ayr<br />

eatdrink.ca |@eatdrinkmag<br />

By ANDREW COPPOLINO | Photos by BROGAN McNABB<br />

The folks at Willibald Farm Distillery<br />

might say that time hasn’t been on<br />

their side — and that’s all right with<br />

them. At the distillery located near<br />

Ayr, about 30 minutes south of Kitchener,<br />

they’re in the habit of just taking things slow.<br />

Even after the investment in start-up costs,<br />

they weren’t in a rush to get to market. Their<br />

success is a marker of the painstaking nature<br />

of the planning and distilling process they<br />

developed.<br />

“We probably went through close to 100<br />

variations of recipes before we decided which<br />

one to use. We were confident then that we<br />

had something people would really like,” says<br />

co-owner Jordan van der Heyden.<br />

The 29-year-old and his business partners<br />

and co-founders — brother Nolan, 25, and<br />

long-time friend Cam Formica, also 29 — have<br />

set themselves up on<br />

100 acres of the van<br />

der Heyden family<br />

farm, formerly a<br />

livestock operation.<br />

The partners, who<br />

grew up together in<br />

Ayr, wanted to test<br />

their entrepreneurial<br />

mettle and “find<br />

something different<br />

that we could use the<br />

land for,” according<br />

to Jordan. Their own<br />

time-dependent<br />

version of gin was<br />

the immediate<br />

answer. They grow<br />

grains, lavender, and other crops, and keep<br />

honey bees. “With everything we grow, we<br />

make spirits,” he says.<br />

Nolan and Jordan both went to University<br />

of <strong>Waterloo</strong>. Formica attended Lakehead.<br />

That brought business, engineering and<br />

environmental science to the Willibald<br />

management table, along with some distilling<br />

education in the U.S. Distilling is Nolan’s<br />

responsibility, and he is broadening his<br />

understanding of the art and science of the<br />

process with schooling in Scotland. As for the<br />

name, it’s an inside family joke that everyone<br />

is now happy to share: Willibald is Jordan’s<br />

and Nolan’s grandfather’s middle name. “We<br />

were looking for something unique. He’s never<br />

been too fond of it, but he’s warmed up to it<br />

as a business name and wears a shirt with the<br />

brand,” says Jordan.<br />

It was 2012 when the trio was searching for<br />

a way to use the farm, recognizing that there<br />

were a lot of breweries out there. “We realized<br />

Willibald Farm Distillery partners, from the left, Nolan<br />

Van der Hayden, Jordan Van der Hayden & Cam Formica.


<strong>Eatdrink</strong>: The Local Food & Drink Magazine<br />

<strong>August</strong>/<strong>September</strong> <strong>2018</strong> | 31<br />

distilling was still in its infancy at that point.<br />

Only Dillon’s in Niagara and Still Waters in<br />

Toronto were in business at the time.” Today<br />

there are about 20 distilleries up and running.<br />

The Willibald facility is an old barn,<br />

refurbished but maintaining its post-andbeam<br />

character. There’s a retail store, and they<br />

give tours and offer complementary tastings.<br />

Until very recently, distilleries could not offer<br />

glasses of spirits in the way that breweries<br />

and wineries were able to. “We just got that<br />

privilege a few months ago and are serving<br />

cocktails at the farm. That’s been a great thing<br />

for us,” says Jordan. They’ve added a woodfired<br />

oven and have started serving food.<br />

Gin itself has a storied history. A grain<br />

distillate, it is initially distilled to a desired<br />

alcohol content and then distilled again along<br />

with an infusion of juniper berries and a range<br />

of herbs and botanicals. Water is added to<br />

establish the correct alcohol concentration —<br />

usually 80 to 95 proof — with the hope that<br />

the spirit will be aromatic and fairly light. At<br />

Willibald they have gotten that down pat, if<br />

their success is any indication. They started<br />

with the trial-and-error of home distilling<br />

and learned the theory side in the U.S. Those<br />

were the easy steps. “It took us a few years<br />

to get the necessary permits and zoning<br />

amendments,” says Jordan. The farm is zoned<br />

for agriculture, but distilling is considered<br />

an industrial process. “The authorities were<br />

extremely supportive, but because it was a<br />

new concept it took a long time.”<br />

Imagine a drink made from corn, rye and<br />

malted barley. Gin, by law, has to include<br />

juniper as a flavour component. “We also add<br />

caraway seed, grapefruit peel, cardamom,<br />

coriander and angelica root. Those ingredients<br />

flavour the gin, and from there we barrel it,<br />

and that’s where the colour comes from,” says<br />

Jordan. The blending process only takes about<br />

10 days. Then comes the barrel aging — a<br />

time commitment of many months. After<br />

aging the contents of the barrels are blended<br />

and then bottled for shipping. The copper pot<br />

still capacity is 1,000 liters. Willibald distills<br />

anywhere from three to five 50-gallon barrels<br />

of whisky or gin a week. The gin, which is<br />

constantly being distilled, is available at LCBO<br />

year-round. “Our first seasonal release will be<br />

later this summer. That will be in the realm of<br />

1,500 to 2,000 bottles.”<br />

The current revival of the cocktail menu at<br />

bars and restaurants, and the bespoke, crafted<br />

impetus it carries, has meant that mixologists<br />

are constantly scanning product lines for the<br />

new and unique. Willibald fits the bill. At the<br />

time of this writing Willibald gin was the only<br />

barrel-aged gin available at the LCBO. “Gin is<br />

typically an unaged spirit. It’s clear and never<br />

been in oak, traditionally. But our gin looks<br />

a lot like whisky with its dark amber colour,<br />

and that’s because it spends anywhere from<br />

four to ten months in oak casks.” The results<br />

are what he calls a “whisky character” that<br />

bartenders are interested in because they<br />

can’t get it elsewhere. “It makes a phenomenal<br />

whisky sour,” he adds.<br />

Like new lines of crafted tequila, a barrelaged<br />

gin like Willibald lends itself to being<br />

sipped neat. For consumers who have never<br />

thought of drinking gin straight that’s<br />

something of a perceived obstacle that the<br />

company is trying to change. “Barrel aging<br />

really mellows out the spirit and cleans it up a


32 |<strong>August</strong>/<strong>September</strong> <strong>2018</strong><br />

bit, making it suitable<br />

if you do want to drink<br />

it neat or on the rocks.<br />

It’s quite smooth.<br />

There has been a<br />

remarkable appetite<br />

for good quality gin in<br />

an older demographic<br />

of customer we are<br />

seeing, say from the<br />

1950s and 1960s era.”<br />

Identifying the exact<br />

nature of “local” is a bit of a mug’s game: it<br />

can mean different things to different people.<br />

But the concept does play a part in Willibald’s<br />

marketing strategy. “What we find is that a<br />

lot of the restaurants that are focussed on<br />

quality cocktails don’t necessarily put as much<br />

emphasis on local. They’re more concerned<br />

with the quality of the product,” Jordan says.<br />

That makes sense, of course — and that’s<br />

the way it should be — but he adds that this<br />

region has been supportive of this new entry<br />

into the marketplace, for being both local and<br />

of high quality. “In <strong>Waterloo</strong> Region, we’ve<br />

been able to play up the local angle, but of<br />

course it isn’t the issue when selling outside<br />

the region, in Toronto for instance.” He cites<br />

examples of where Willibald is being served in<br />

the region, including Red House, The Belmont<br />

Bistro and Grand Trunk Saloon, to name only<br />

a few. “We do really well at the Cambridge<br />

Mill,” he adds. “They’re extremely proud of<br />

listing where they get their ingredients.”<br />

Willibald currently doesn’t have the<br />

competition that breweries and wineries do.<br />

Even at the LCBO, the product is unique, and<br />

that’s been good. They target establishments<br />

with specialty cocktail menus rather than<br />

venues that focus on volume. Yet even some<br />

better bars and restaurants may not yet have<br />

what Jordan calls “the craft-spirit mentality”<br />

like they have for craft beer. “Once they’ve<br />

tried it, it’s a good sell for us,” he says.<br />

eatdrink.ca |@eatdrinkmag<br />

There’s more Willibald to look forward to.<br />

Gin accounts for only about one-third of their<br />

production. Whisky makes up the majority.<br />

However, that spirit, by virtue of Canadian<br />

law, must be aged a minimum of three years.<br />

“We haven’t been able to release any yet. We’ve<br />

been in production for a little over two years<br />

now, so in the next year or two we’ll have some<br />

whisky,” Jordan says. There are plans for spiced<br />

whisky with apple. “We’re also doing some<br />

work with the lavender we grow and we have<br />

honey bees at the<br />

farm.” That means<br />

Willibald, unique with<br />

its inventive gin, is<br />

continuing along the<br />

creative path they’ve<br />

forged for themselves,<br />

but they’re not<br />

rushing things. “We<br />

are playing around<br />

with quite a few<br />

things,” says Jordan.<br />

“We have the type of still that allows us to do<br />

anything with spirits, from gins and whiskies<br />

to fruit brandies. Those are the products we’re<br />

interested in pursuing. But because it’s aged,<br />

it takes time.”<br />

Willibald Farm Distillery<br />

1271 Reidsville Road, Ayr<br />

226-556-9941<br />

drinkwillibald.com<br />

ANDREW COPPOLINO is a Kitchener-based writer<br />

and broadcaster. He is publisher of <strong>Waterloo</strong> Region Eats<br />

(waterlooregioneats.com) a longstanding online resource<br />

dedicated to food, dining, restaurants, chefs, sustainability<br />

and agriculture. Andrew also serves as a regional<br />

<strong>Eatdrink</strong> Editorial Consultant.<br />

BROGAN McNABB is a Toronto-based fashion and<br />

lifestyle photographer. broganmcnab.com


<strong>Eatdrink</strong>: The Local Food & Drink Magazine<br />

Beer<br />

Twelve Temptations<br />

Local Craft Beers for Summer<br />

<strong>August</strong>/<strong>September</strong> <strong>2018</strong> | 33<br />

by GEORGE MACKE<br />

One deck, one dock, one cottage,<br />

plenty of beer. Does anything say<br />

summer like a selection of fresh<br />

local craft beers?<br />

While many equate craft beer with bitter IPAs<br />

or thick and heavy stouts, it’s not necessarily<br />

so. Increasingly, Southwestern Ontario’s<br />

impressive craft breweries are producing small<br />

Orange Creamsic Ale — Railway<br />

City Brewery, St. Thomas. Available until<br />

<strong>August</strong>, Orange Creamsic<br />

takes inspiration for its name<br />

and its taste from the classic<br />

orange and vanilla ice cream<br />

bar. Creamy with a vanilla<br />

flavour, it’s light enough in<br />

alcohol (4.8 per cent) to be<br />

sessionable. It also makes a<br />

great dessert beer.<br />

batch easy-to-drink lagers, malty golden ales,<br />

and wheat beer seasonals with unexpected<br />

flavours guaranteed to quench thirsts on hot<br />

summer days. Here are some great choices —<br />

all widely available at the brewery itself and<br />

at the LCBO, select grocery stores, or The Beer<br />

Store — to fill your cooler and impress guests.<br />

Flashback Rhubarb Wheat Beer —<br />

Forked River Brewing, London. Brewed<br />

every spring for the past four<br />

years, Flashback has been<br />

known as Mojo until now.<br />

Forked River has swapped<br />

names for the beer, and the<br />

lava lamp label artwork has<br />

given way to an hourglass,<br />

but you’ll spot the 473 mL<br />

cans quickly thanks to their


eatdrink.ca |@eatdrinkmag<br />

SPECIAL GUESTS including Forked River Brewing,<br />

London Brewing Co-op, Tobaggan Brewing, Storm Stayed<br />

Brewing, Railway City Brewing & Powerhouse Brewing!<br />

$5 EARLY BIRD TICKETS $10 after <strong>August</strong> 1st.<br />

Tickets include 2 drink tokens. Purchase yours at<br />

ANDERSON CRAFT ALES or EVENTBRITE.COM<br />

1030 ELIAS STREET, LONDON • 548-888-ALES<br />

Road Trip!<br />

Come to the Cowbell Farm in Blyth, Ontario<br />

“THE NO.1 CRAFT BREWERY IN CANADA TO VISIT.”<br />

—WAYNE NEWTON, FOOD & DRINK JOURNALIST<br />

40035 BLYTH ROAD, BLYTH, ON N0M 1H0<br />

1-844-523-4724 WWW.COWBELLBREWING.COM<br />

familiar and distinctive yellow colour. The<br />

rhubarb content gives a punch of tartness,<br />

but not so much as to ruin the wheat beer<br />

quaffability. Try pairing it with a bowl of<br />

summer fruit.<br />

El Buscador Cerveza<br />

— Descendants Brewery,<br />

Kitchener. What says heat<br />

relief better than a Mexicanstyle<br />

lager? As a deviation from<br />

the macro-brewed Corona, El<br />

Buscador Cerveza is a suitable<br />

choice. It’s only 4 per cent<br />

alcohol, making it sessionable<br />

even if the Day of the Deadinspired<br />

artwork hints at<br />

something more potent.<br />

1857 Kolsch — Abe Erb Brewery,<br />

<strong>Waterloo</strong>. This style of<br />

beer originated in Cologne,<br />

German, and is between a<br />

lager and ale. It’s alternatively<br />

known as a cream ale,<br />

particularly in the U.S. Abe<br />

Erb’s kolsch hits the mark as<br />

a versatile and solid choice to<br />

pair with thick hamburgers<br />

or ribs. Many will prefer it as<br />

a beverage with a meal rather<br />

than a sessionable beer round<br />

the campfire. It’s 4.8 per cent<br />

alcohol.<br />

Cream Ale — Anderson<br />

Craft Ales, London. If there’s a craft<br />

beer for cottage guests who think they<br />

don’t like craft beer,<br />

this is it. One of three<br />

breweries in London’s<br />

intriguing Old East<br />

Village, Anderson brews<br />

a number of delightful<br />

year-round beers, oneoffs,<br />

and seasonals. But<br />

it’s Anderson Cream Ale,<br />

sold in six-packs of 355<br />

mL cans, which serves as<br />

the gateway. Medium in<br />

body, malty in taste, it’s<br />

a stellar cream ale which<br />

has quickly found a loyal fan base.<br />

Backpaddle Blonde — Upper Thames<br />

Brewing, Woodstock. What’s summer<br />

without a blonde in the crowd? Upper<br />

Thames’ Backpaddle Blonde is the two-year-


<strong>Eatdrink</strong>: The Local Food & Drink Magazine<br />

old brewery’s best selling<br />

beer, and for good reason.<br />

It has broad appeal among<br />

all beer drinkers. It’s malty<br />

with a hint of citrus flavour<br />

derived from Cascade hops<br />

grown by the Tavistock Hop<br />

Company. Blondes — or<br />

golden ales — are close in<br />

flavour to the popular macro<br />

brews. Freshness is the key<br />

to enjoying a craft blonde.<br />

Backpaddle is in a limited<br />

number of local Beer<br />

Stores.<br />

Helles Lager —<br />

<strong>Wellington</strong> Brewery,<br />

Guelph. Available at the<br />

Beer Store in 355 mL cans,<br />

Helles is <strong>Wellington</strong>’s take<br />

on a traditional German<br />

light lager. It’s a brave<br />

attempt to sway fans of<br />

big multinational brands.<br />

For the patriots, it uses<br />

BLACK SWAN<br />

BREWING COMPANY<br />

STRATFORD • ONTARIO<br />

It's what we drink.<br />

144 DOWNIE ST, STRATFORD<br />

BLACKSWANBREWING.CA 519 • 814 • 7926 @BLACKSWANBREWINGCO


36 |<strong>August</strong>/<strong>September</strong> <strong>2018</strong> eatdrink.ca |@eatdrinkmag<br />

all-Canadian barley and wheat malt. As a<br />

4.5 per cent lager, it works in pretty much<br />

all situations, from campfire gatherings to<br />

grilled food.<br />

Suburban Menace — Refined Fool<br />

Brewing, Sarnia. This intriguing beer moves<br />

people along the<br />

craft beer tasting<br />

chart. It’s a little<br />

stronger in alcohol<br />

(5.7 per cent) and<br />

a little more bitter<br />

without treading into<br />

IPA territory. Red<br />

in colour, Suburban<br />

Menace comes in<br />

shareable 650 mL bottles, ideal for pouring<br />

summer tasters for the unconverted. Its<br />

complex tastes — can you pick up the caramel,<br />

blueberry, and bubblegum? — make it a great<br />

conversation starter.<br />

Wild Child — Black Swan<br />

Brewing Company. Wild<br />

Child is a sour ale, in the<br />

Berliner Weisse style. Light<br />

and very bubbly, it’s tart<br />

without being puckering<br />

and could serve as a great<br />

gateway beer for wine<br />

drinkers or those turned off<br />

by the traditional bitterness<br />

in many beer styles.<br />

Variations are available at<br />

times, with additions such as<br />

seasonal fruit. Wild Chid is an excellent thirst<br />

quencher as a stand alone on a hot summer<br />

day or would pair wonderfully with a pan-fried<br />

fish or salad. Available in 1-litre and 2-litre<br />

growlers at the brewery.<br />

And finally, three variations on a theme in one<br />

convenient six-pack.<br />

Summer Radler Pack — <strong>Waterloo</strong><br />

Brewing, Kitchener. <strong>Waterloo</strong> Brewing<br />

packages its<br />

three summer<br />

seasonal<br />

radlers in a<br />

six-pack box.<br />

A radler is a<br />

mix of lager<br />

and fruit<br />

juice, with the<br />

result being<br />

more refreshing<br />

flavour and less alcohol. <strong>Waterloo</strong>’s pack<br />

includes grapefruit, citrus, and raspberry<br />

versions, each at 3.1 per cent alcohol.<br />

<strong>Waterloo</strong>’s radlers pair with light summer<br />

fare off the grill — grapefruit with shrimp,<br />

raspberry with whitefish and tossed salad,<br />

citrus with steak. <strong>Waterloo</strong> Citrus Radler<br />

has appeal as a reward after an afternoon of<br />

summer yard work.<br />

GEORGE MACKE is a Southwestern Ontario craft<br />

beer explorer who spends too much time at the LCBO.<br />

Discover Heather's Incomparable Journeys<br />

Impeccable Italy — October 10–27, <strong>2018</strong><br />

Featuring Lake Como, Tuscany, Amalfi Coast and Rome<br />

The Slow Roads of Ireland — Sept. 5–24 , <strong>2018</strong><br />

Explore Donegal, Connemara, Cork & Kerry and Dublin<br />

Small group bespoke tours enjoying a<br />

relaxed itinerary with inclusive pricing,<br />

door to door from London, Ontario<br />

www.heathersincomparablejourneys.ca<br />

For any and all of your travel needs<br />

519-473-8591<br />

Heather Wilkinson<br />

31 Nottinghill Gate, Suite 203,<br />

Oakville ON TICO#50013851<br />

Travel<br />

Industry Council of Ontario


<strong>Eatdrink</strong>: The Local Food & Drink Magazine<br />

<strong>August</strong>/<strong>September</strong> <strong>2018</strong> | 37<br />

Wine<br />

Finding “Somewhereness”<br />

Terroir In a Glass of Wine<br />

If you have been to a wine tasting, the<br />

discussion at some point has probably<br />

lead to terroir. This is a French term<br />

that basically means “a sense of place.”<br />

When used in relation to wine, terroir is a<br />

combination of factors, such as the soil and<br />

the climate of the area where the grapes are<br />

grown, which impart unique characteristics<br />

that can be tasted in the wine.<br />

Ontario is a cool climate wine region. The<br />

wines made here are often more aromatic,<br />

lighter in body, and<br />

higher in acidity<br />

than their warm<br />

climate equivalents.<br />

The soil in each<br />

of Ontario’s three<br />

major wine growing<br />

regions is complex.<br />

Glacial clay, silt,<br />

and limestone<br />

contribute to the<br />

terroir of Ontario<br />

wines. Sometimes<br />

just small variances<br />

in the wine’s acidity,<br />

alcohol level or<br />

minerality have a<br />

big influence on the<br />

taste and quality.<br />

Recently a group<br />

of 12 Ontario winemakers<br />

gathered<br />

at Stratford Chefs<br />

School for an event<br />

called Somewhereness.<br />

In the group’s<br />

promotional material<br />

“somewhereness”<br />

is explained as a<br />

term used “to describe the blend of terroir,<br />

climate, vine and vintner that let a wine stand<br />

apart.… It speaks of small plots, sustainable<br />

practices, responsible stewardship and the way<br />

by GARY KILLOPS<br />

our approach to winemaking contributes to<br />

the elusive characteristics that flow through to<br />

your soul with every sip of our wine.”<br />

The tasting at the Chefs School offered<br />

one-on-one conversations with the<br />

Somewhereness producers.<br />

Shiraz Mottiar, winemaker at Malivoire<br />

Wine in Niagara, was pouring several wines. He<br />

offered specifics on the Malivoire 2015 Small<br />

Lot Pinot Noir ($29.95 retail from the winery).<br />

The grapes were sourced from two vineyards<br />

in the Beamsville<br />

Bench. The Moira<br />

vineyard has vines<br />

that are over twenty<br />

years old, and<br />

they contribute<br />

to the fresh fruit<br />

acidity. The Mottiar<br />

vineyard, Shiraz’s<br />

own vineyard, is at<br />

a higher elevation<br />

and imparts<br />

both acidity and<br />

minerality. The<br />

Malivoire Small Lot<br />

Pinot Noir offers<br />

fresh, vibrant red<br />

berry fruits, clove<br />

and earthy spices,<br />

and mushroom and<br />

mineral nuances.<br />

Lively, fresh with a<br />

smooth finish. Wellpriced<br />

for a quality<br />

wine like this.<br />

Malivoire’s<br />

2016 Small Lot<br />

Chardonnay ($19.95<br />

retail from the<br />

winery) was made from Moira vineyard grapes.<br />

The wine was allowed to go through partial<br />

malolactic fermentation and then aged 50%<br />

in stainless steel, with the remainder aged in<br />

The Somewhereness brand ambassadors included:<br />

(clockwise from top left) Shiraz Mottiar from Malivoire; Ilya<br />

Rubin from 13th Street Winery; Harald Thiel from Hidden Bench<br />

Estate Winery; and Suzanne Janke from Stratus Vineyards.


38 |<strong>August</strong>/<strong>September</strong> <strong>2018</strong><br />

eatdrink.ca |@eatdrinkmag<br />

The wineries each presented a line-up of products:<br />

(from the left) Cave Spring, Malivoire, and Hidden Bench.<br />

French barrels, for nine months. The buttery<br />

notes and the hint of vanilla oak balance the<br />

green apple and the lemon citrus notes.<br />

Harald Thiel, owner of Hidden Bench Estate<br />

Winery, was pouring six terroir-driven wines<br />

at the event. “Our wines are unfiltered, which<br />

I believe adds to their ageability” he said. “We<br />

are trying to make wines that are not only<br />

good Ontario wines but also are wines that<br />

can take their place on the world stage.” The<br />

2015 Estate Chardonnay ($29.95 retail from<br />

the winery) showcases the Beamsville Bench<br />

terroir. The grapes in this wine are sourced<br />

from the Locust Lane, Felseck and Rosomel<br />

vineyards. Locust Lane and Felseck have a<br />

west/east slope as well as a south/north slope,<br />

providing excellent air, drainage and solar<br />

exposure. A strikingly complex chardonnay<br />

with lemon citrus, pear, melon and white<br />

flowers, driven by a mineral backbone one<br />

might expect from old world burgundies.<br />

“Somewhereness” is also about sustainable<br />

practices and responsible stewardship<br />

of the land that is dedicated to growing<br />

grapes. These winemakers also identify as<br />

caretakers of the earth where their vines<br />

grow. Nowhere is this more evident than at<br />

Stratus Vineyards. Located in Niagara-on-the-<br />

Lake, the winery was the first to earn LEED<br />

Canada Certification by producing wines in an<br />

environmentally-responsible manner.<br />

“The wine we grow is dependent on the<br />

health of the land on which it is grown,”<br />

reads the Stratus Environmental Mission<br />

Statement. “We farm our vineyard and guide<br />

our winemaking as though our children’s<br />

future depends on it.”<br />

At the event, Stratus poured the 2014 Stratus<br />

Red ($48 available at the winery only), a fine<br />

example of terroir, as it presents a different<br />

taste profile than the 2013 vintage currently<br />

available at the LCBO ($38.75, vintages<br />

#131037). A ripe, full bodied blend of cabernet<br />

franc, cabernet sauvignon, merlot and syrah.<br />

Juicy red berry fruits, grippy tannins and<br />

complex secondary oak flavours having spent<br />

584 days in 34% new French oak barrels.<br />

Terroir reflects a vineyard’s location and<br />

captures a sense of place, soil, climate, and<br />

seasons. It impacts vintage variations and the<br />

winemaker’s production decisions. Events<br />

like showcase the unique terroir of Ontario<br />

vineyards, and confirm that our wines have<br />

evolved to be comparable with other wellknown<br />

world-class wines.<br />

GARY KILLOPS is a CAPS Certified Sommelier who<br />

loves to talk, taste, and write about wine. He shares his<br />

tasting notes on EssexWineReview.com<br />

Share Our Passion<br />

Available<br />

at<br />

at the<br />

Fine LCBO Restaurants<br />

& The Winery<br />

Colchester Ridge Estate Winery<br />

A Family-Run Craft Winery<br />

Award-Winning VQA Wines<br />

Friendly Tasting Boutique<br />

Picnic Tables<br />

Artisanal Ontario Cheeses<br />

Special Events<br />

@crewinery • 108 Essex County Road 50 • Harrow ON • 519-738-9800


<strong>Eatdrink</strong>: The Local Food & Drink Magazine


40 |<strong>August</strong>/<strong>September</strong> <strong>2018</strong><br />

eatdrink.ca |@eatdrinkmag<br />

Books<br />

Rustle Up Some Grubs<br />

Edible: An Adventure into the World of Eating Insects<br />

and<br />

Eat the Beetles!<br />

When it comes to using insects<br />

as food, a cry of “bring on the<br />

delicacies” comes from certain<br />

cultures, whereas<br />

others need to be near-to-death<br />

starving before considering bugs<br />

for dinner. Two books, Edible: An<br />

Adventure into the World of Eating<br />

Insects and The Last Great Hope<br />

to Save the Planet (Houghton<br />

Mifflin, 2014) by Daniella<br />

Martin and Eat the Beetles! An<br />

Exploration into our Conflicted<br />

Relationship with Insects (ECW<br />

Press, 2017) by David Waltner-<br />

Toews, have taken steps<br />

beyond these polarizing camps<br />

by arguing that entomophagy<br />

(the eating of insects) has a<br />

lot going for it: a plentiful<br />

wild supply, few resources required to farm<br />

them, no butchering involved, and high<br />

nutritional value.<br />

Martin got interested in entomophagy as<br />

an anthropology student in Mexico.<br />

She extended her globetrotting to<br />

get experiences with cultures<br />

more accepting of such a practice.<br />

In Edible, she promotes<br />

her theory that “insects are<br />

the great untapped resource,<br />

the final frontier of natural<br />

food” by going to underground<br />

bug-eating parties in<br />

Tokyo, and to Noma (touted as<br />

the world’s best restaurant) in<br />

Copenhagen, where bugs are incorporated<br />

into the haute cuisine menu.<br />

Her philosophy of “farm pest to table”<br />

utilizes the natural world to counteract some<br />

Review by DARIN COOK<br />

Daniella Martin<br />

harmful impacts of traditional farming. One<br />

theory is that fields attract insects that can<br />

simultaneously be harvested while picking the<br />

crops. A yield of two different food sources<br />

can be extracted from the same plot<br />

of land, instead of disposing<br />

of one with pesticides<br />

that harm the other at the<br />

same time. These are the<br />

types of compelling ecological,<br />

economical, and practical<br />

reasons Martin has for eating<br />

insects, but she also knows<br />

how tasty they can be.<br />

The first bugs she tried<br />

were toasted grasshoppers<br />

in Mexico. While not overly<br />

enjoyable, she saw the appeal<br />

of their resemblance to burnt<br />

potato chips. Many bugs are<br />

compared to peanuts, almonds,<br />

and pistachios, with an overall consensus of<br />

having a nutty flavour profile. Martin likens<br />

queen ants to beef jerky popcorn kernels,<br />

and fried bamboo worms to extra<br />

crispy French fries. The first time<br />

she experimented at home,<br />

after mail-ordering wax moth<br />

larvae, Martin says they<br />

smelled liked mushrooms<br />

while cooking, and tasted<br />

like earthy, savoury raisins.<br />

Early in her research<br />

Martin confesses to being<br />

“on high alert for digestive<br />

disturbances” especially since<br />

insects are nearly always eaten<br />

whole, including outer shells not<br />

easily digested by humans. Even with<br />

the smorgasbord of insects she has sampled,


<strong>Eatdrink</strong>: The Local Food & Drink Magazine<br />

<strong>August</strong>/<strong>September</strong> <strong>2018</strong> | 41<br />

including tougher-to-swallow critters like<br />

scorpions and whole tarantulas (the former<br />

she compares to crab and the latter to chewy<br />

Korean barbeque), she admits that insects<br />

have never caused any gastrointestinal<br />

problems. But she knows there is<br />

a stigma to overcome, so Martin<br />

digs deep with nutritional and<br />

ecological arguments to make her<br />

case for insect eating. She also<br />

includes an appendix of insects<br />

that are safe to consume, and a<br />

compendium of some tried-andtrue<br />

recipes (Wax Moth Tacos<br />

or Cricket Kale Salad, anyone?).<br />

It may not be easy for North<br />

Americans to whole-heartedly<br />

swallow the idea, but even<br />

insinuating insects into one’s<br />

diet in small doses could lead<br />

to major change.<br />

Three years later Waltner-<br />

Toews, a veterinarian from<br />

Kitchener, has expanded on this topic in<br />

Eat the Beetles! and I was curious to see if<br />

entomophagy has become more acceptable.<br />

Have insects been popping up on more restaurant<br />

menus? Have they graduated<br />

from exotic to mainstream? Have<br />

insect farms started replacing<br />

cattle farms? Has a reliance<br />

on insects as food helped<br />

the world or has the trend<br />

stayed too small to have an<br />

impact? Are the squeamish<br />

still too squeamish?<br />

While the writing style<br />

of Martin had more of a<br />

pop culture vibe, that of<br />

Waltner-Toews is more scientific,<br />

albeit very readable and enjoyable,<br />

especially with his whimsical<br />

reference to the (human) Beatles, not only<br />

in the title, but in chapters alluding to Fab<br />

Four songs — Cricket to Ride; Can’t Buy Me<br />

Bugs; I Am the Cockroach. Each punninglytitled<br />

chapter deals with questions that have<br />

cropped up since “global beetle-mania.” His<br />

research takes him to fine dining in Paris (for<br />

the best insect preparations), wasp hunting<br />

in Japan, and cricket farming in Cambodia.<br />

One thing that the three years between<br />

these books has provided is more time for<br />

scientific research, to see if entomophagy<br />

has teeth to support global food security or<br />

will lead to newer ecological disasters. There<br />

David Waltner-Toews<br />

is a deep symbiotic relationship between<br />

insects and the natural world and taking away<br />

too many insects from the wild could have<br />

unintentional consequences. This concern<br />

leads Waltner-Toews to examine the viable<br />

options currently underway in insect farming.<br />

Although optimistic about bugs<br />

showing up in markets and<br />

on menus, Waltner-Toews’<br />

tone is more cautious,<br />

compared to Martin’s<br />

enthusiasm to convert all of<br />

us to insect eaters. He has<br />

good experiences sampling<br />

bug dishes: palm weevil<br />

larvae taste like dried figs to<br />

him and seasoned crickets<br />

are a legitimate substitute for<br />

greasy bar snacks. Given the<br />

overarching comparisons to<br />

snack foods, bugs may not have<br />

leapt to the plate to replace meat<br />

entrées yet; their main success<br />

comes as protein replacements in<br />

tacos surrounded by the other accoutrements<br />

to make a Mexican-style meal. For the newly<br />

initiated, some of the least offensive offerings<br />

are insect eggs as seasoning on upscale<br />

dishes (similar to the use of caviar)<br />

or an amalgam of bugs mixed<br />

with vegetables in stir-fries or<br />

salads. Some companies are<br />

successfully using ground-up<br />

cricket flour as protein<br />

powder in energy bars to<br />

mask any resemblance to sixlegged<br />

creatures.<br />

For many cultures,<br />

entomol ogy and gastronomy<br />

have already collided in ancient<br />

methods of sustenance or as more<br />

recent trends to embellish menus.<br />

Leaving taboos at the door while reading<br />

these books may lead to some new tasty<br />

snacks, while jumping into a movement<br />

that can alleviate global problems. Even if<br />

overcoming cultural aversions seems difficult,<br />

remember that bugs are already engrained<br />

in many indigenous cuisines, and the advice<br />

of Waltner-Toews is: “If you are a guest in<br />

another country, and they offer you bugs to<br />

eat, it is rude to decline the offer.”<br />

DARIN COOK is a regular <strong>Eatdrink</strong> contributor who<br />

lives and works in Chatham-Kent.


42 |<strong>August</strong>/<strong>September</strong> <strong>2018</strong><br />

eatdrink.ca |@eatdrinkmag<br />

Recipes<br />

Firehouse Chef<br />

Recipes from Canada’s Firefighters<br />

By Patrick Mathieu<br />

Review and Recipe Selections by TRACY TURLIN<br />

Patrick Mathieu is a Quebec native who<br />

was influenced by his grandmother<br />

to learn to cook at the age of 16.<br />

A few years later he was inspired<br />

by his grandfather and uncles to become a<br />

firefighter. Sixteen years on, Mathieu now<br />

works for the <strong>Waterloo</strong> Fire Department.<br />

He and his wife Andrea Lauren own Station<br />

House Catering and Private Chef Services.<br />

He’s a food columnist for Firefighting in<br />

Canada magazine and was a contestant on<br />

Season 2 of Food Network Canada’s Chopped<br />

Canada. Somewhere in there he found time to<br />

write a cookbook: Firehouse Chef: Recipes from<br />

Canada’s Firefighters (Whitecap Books, 2016).<br />

According to the author, rookies are given<br />

the following choices in the firehouse kitchen:<br />

cook for a bunch of hungry firefighters, or<br />

clean up after them. For Mathieu the decision<br />

was easy. He developed his firefighting/<br />

life-saving skills, balanced that out with his<br />

culinary skills, and found he loved them both.<br />

Firehouse Chef was more than the meat and<br />

potatoes fare I was expecting. These men and<br />

women seem to love their food spicy. I was also<br />

surprised at the number of desserts on offer.<br />

Mathieu gives us 90 of his own recipes, ranging<br />

from classic French Canadian dishes to Italian<br />

and Mexican favourites. He and his wife honeymooned<br />

in Thailand, and their love for the<br />

beautiful flavours of that country<br />

are apparent in this book. Fifty<br />

further recipes are contributions<br />

from other firehouse cooks across<br />

Canada, including a number from<br />

Southwestern Ontario. If you<br />

know any firefighters, you’ll definitely<br />

want to check this out to<br />

see if they have a recipe included.<br />

I never really get tired of fresh<br />

Ontario corn with a simple butter/salt/pepper<br />

treatment, but<br />

Mexican Grilled Corn<br />

is a decadent alternative<br />

and sure to<br />

impress at your next<br />

cookout. A beautiful<br />

balance of sweet<br />

corn, salty cheese<br />

and tangy lime,<br />

these are only<br />

made better by<br />

being incredibly<br />

messy. The perfect<br />

summer food<br />

made for sharing with a crowd.<br />

If you like the camping vibe without the<br />

wood smoke and mosquitoes, try a slightly<br />

more upscale version of the campfire<br />

classic, S’mores Sundae. It’s a great way to<br />

enjoy the flavours of childhood memories<br />

without dropping marshmallows in the fire.<br />

(Does anyone else like them charred on the<br />

outside? Tasty, but difficult to find the sweet<br />

spot before they go nuclear.)<br />

For an easy and quick weeknight dinner<br />

in the summer, you can’t do much better<br />

than Grilled Ahi Tuna with Sicilian Salsa.<br />

The flavourful salsa can be made ahead of<br />

time and the tuna can be grilled in less than<br />

five minutes. It makes for a very light yet<br />

satisfying dinner. Salad or pasta could be<br />

served alongside, depending on<br />

your appetite.<br />

I could cook from this book<br />

all summer and never run out of<br />

recipes I want to try. I actually<br />

tried to find a recipe I didn’t like<br />

the look of and couldn’t find<br />

one. (Maybe the risotto. I don’t<br />

get risotto. Is it rice? Is it cream?<br />

Is it mushy, crunchy?) What was<br />

Author Patrick Mathieu


<strong>Eatdrink</strong>: The Local Food & Drink Magazine<br />

I saying? Oh yes, all of Firehouse Chef’s recipes<br />

— including risotto — are flavourful dishes that<br />

work as well for a busy family as they do for busy<br />

firefighters.<br />

In addition to the wonderful food, we get<br />

a glimpse into the lighter side of life in a<br />

working firehouse. This book is as much fun to<br />

read as it is to cook from.<br />

Mexican Grilled Corn<br />

Serves 4<br />

In Ontario, we really look forward to fresh corn<br />

season and in the fire house a couple dozen cobs<br />

will regularly show up during a shift. Try this<br />

Mexican street-food edition to dress up your<br />

next cob.<br />

<strong>August</strong>/<strong>September</strong> <strong>2018</strong> | 43<br />

TRACY TURLIN is a freelance writer and dog groomer<br />

in London. Reach her at tracyturlin@gmail.com<br />

Recipes excerpted from Firehouse Chef: Recipes from<br />

Canada’s Firefighters. Published by Whitecap Books.<br />

Reproduced by arrangement with the Publisher. All<br />

rights reserved.<br />

Brush each ear of corn with about 1 Tbsp (5 ml)<br />

mayonnaise mixture and then roll in the cheese to coat.<br />

Sprinkle with salt, pepper and cilantro and serve with lime<br />

wedges for squeezing over the corn.<br />

4 ears fresh corn,<br />

husked<br />

½ cup (125 ml)<br />

mayonnaise<br />

½ Tbsp (7.5 ml)<br />

Mexican-style chili<br />

powder<br />

½ Tbsp (7.5 ml)<br />

smoked paprika<br />

1 tsp (5 ml) finely<br />

grated lime zest<br />

½ cup (125 ml)<br />

crumbled cotija,<br />

queso fresco or<br />

feta cheese<br />

Kosher salt, to taste<br />

Freshly ground<br />

pepper, to taste<br />

½ cup (125 ml) fresh<br />

cilantro, chopped<br />

1 lime, cut into<br />

wedges, for serving<br />

Prepare a gas or charcoal<br />

grill over high heat.<br />

Grill the corn, turning<br />

frequently with tongs<br />

until the kernels have<br />

softened and are charred<br />

in spots, 6-8 minutes.<br />

Remove from the grill and<br />

allow to cool slightly.<br />

In a small bowl, combine<br />

the mayonnaise, chili<br />

powder, smoked paprika<br />

and lime zest. Put the<br />

cheese on a small plate.


44 |<strong>August</strong>/<strong>September</strong> <strong>2018</strong><br />

Grilled Ahi Tuna with Sicilian Salsa<br />

Serves 4-6<br />

Ahi Tuna could very well be my favourite<br />

ingredient both to cook and to eat. During my<br />

appearance on Season 2 of the Food Network’s<br />

Chopped Canada you can only imagine my giant<br />

sigh of relief when I saw a beautiful piece of<br />

tuna as one of my secret ingredients in the main<br />

course round! This dense, firm-fleshed fish is<br />

absolutely perfect for grilling and absorbs rubs<br />

and marinades wonderfully. Cooking it rare will<br />

ensure its maximum tenderness and flavour, and<br />

the Sicilian Salsa is a perfect briny compliment to<br />

this or any grilled fish.<br />

4 ahi tuna steaks<br />

(about ½ lb/225 g<br />

each)<br />

2 Tbsp (30 ml)<br />

grapeseed oil, for<br />

coating<br />

SPICE RUB<br />

1 Tbsp (15 ml) garlic<br />

powder<br />

1 Tbsp (15 ml) dried<br />

basil<br />

1 tsp (5 ml) ground<br />

fennel seeds<br />

¼ tsp (1 ml) red chili<br />

pepper flakes<br />

½ Tbsp (7.5 ml)<br />

kosher salt<br />

1 tsp (5 ml) lemon<br />

pepper or freshly<br />

ground black<br />

pepper<br />

SICILIAN SALSA<br />

¼ cup (60 ml)<br />

chopped cured<br />

black olives<br />

1 cup (250 ml)<br />

chopped tomatoes<br />

¼ cup (60 ml)<br />

chopped fresh basil<br />

3 garlic cloves,<br />

minced<br />

¼ tsp (1 ml) cayenne<br />

2 Tbsp (30 ml) extra<br />

virgin olive oil<br />

Juice of ½ lemon<br />

Kosher salt, to taste<br />

Prepare a grill for direct<br />

grilling over high heat and<br />

oil the grill rack. Coat the<br />

tuna with grapeseed oil.<br />

eatdrink.ca |@eatdrinkmag<br />

SPICE RUB<br />

In a small bowl mix together the garlic powder, basil,<br />

fennel seeds, chili flakes, salt and pepper. Sprinkle both<br />

sides of each tuna steak generously with the spice rub.<br />

SICILIAN SALSA<br />

To make the salsa, combine all ingredients in a bowl, taste<br />

and season with salt. Set aside.<br />

Grill the tuna directly over high heat for 1–2 minutes per<br />

side, until grill marked and still rare in the middle.<br />

Arrange the tuna steaks on individual plates and top with<br />

the salsa. Serve alongside your favourite pasta.


<strong>Eatdrink</strong>: The Local Food & Drink Magazine<br />

S’mores Sundae<br />

Serves 6<br />

Sundaes are a really simple way to have fun<br />

with dessert, and they are a regular treat in<br />

the firehouse. This easy and decadent twist<br />

on everyone’s campfire classic might surpass<br />

the original, with a homemade chocolate<br />

ganache, toasted marshmallow and lots of<br />

ice cream!<br />

12 graham crackers<br />

3 Tbsp (45 ml) brown sugar<br />

1 stick unsalted butter, melted<br />

Pinch of kosher salt<br />

40 large marshmallows<br />

½ lb (225 g) good-quality dark chocolate<br />

½ cup (125 ml) heavy cream<br />

2 cups (500 ml) vanilla bean ice cream<br />

2 cups (500 ml) chocolate chunk ice cream<br />

<strong>August</strong>/<strong>September</strong> <strong>2018</strong> | 45<br />

Preheat oven to 325°F (160°C) and line a baking tray with<br />

parchment paper. Add the graham crackers to a food<br />

processor and process into fine crumbs. Add the sugar, butter<br />

and salt and pulse until the mixture is well incorporated.<br />

Pour out onto baking tray and form into one large “cookie.”<br />

Bake until light golden brown, about 15 minutes. Let cool<br />

completely then break into crumbles.<br />

Preheat oven on broil. Lay marshmallows on a parchmentlined<br />

baking tray in a single layer and place under the broiler<br />

for just a couple of minutes until browned well all over.<br />

Remove and set aside.<br />

Finely chop the chocolate and place in bowl. Heat the heavy<br />

cream over medium heat until just starting to simmer.<br />

Pour the heavy cream over the chocolate and fold until the<br />

chocolate melts and it becomes a smooth ganache.<br />

Place 1 scoop each of vanilla and chocolate ice cream<br />

in a parfait glass or bowl. Layer your sundae with dark<br />

chocolate ganache, graham cracker crumbles and a toasted<br />

marshmallow or two on top.


46 |<strong>August</strong>/<strong>September</strong> <strong>2018</strong><br />

eatdrink.ca |@eatdrinkmag<br />

The Lighter Side<br />

Give Peas a Chance<br />

By DARIN COOK<br />

It is not surprising that romantic unions<br />

occur over a common love of certain<br />

foods, as dictated by the adage that<br />

the way to one’s heart can be through<br />

the stomach. Less often will you see a couple<br />

bonding over a meal liked by one individual<br />

but not by the other. Such incompatibilities,<br />

though, can provide insights into how<br />

relationships work. It was definitely<br />

not my culinary skills that urged<br />

my wife to enter into holy<br />

matrimony with me, but it<br />

was my cooking during our<br />

courtship that taught us both<br />

some relationship lessons.<br />

When we were dating, the<br />

first meal I cooked for my future<br />

wife was my signature dish, one far more<br />

elaborate in my mind than in reality. I called<br />

it Chicken and Peas over Rice. By cooking for<br />

her in the early stages of our dating, I thought<br />

I was proving that I was not useless as a<br />

potential mate, and I was under the illusion<br />

that it was more romantic to surprise her<br />

with a homemade dish than to let her in on<br />

what to expect for dinner. I may have had this<br />

recipe down pat — open a can of soup and a<br />

container of sour cream for the sauce, split<br />

open a bag of frozen peas, boil Minute Rice,<br />

cut boneless chicken breasts into cubes. But it<br />

is stupefying that I thought it was worthy of<br />

serving to a girl I was trying to impress.<br />

A few days after I made this meal she told<br />

me, “I hate peas, but I like you, so I ate them,<br />

and now peas aren’t so bad.” Never would I<br />

have guessed that love could edge someone<br />

towards liking more vegetables. Up to that<br />

point she had known she liked me, but by<br />

eating those peas she learned just how far she<br />

would go for our relationship. She could have<br />

easily gone the other way, thinking, “I was on<br />

the fence about whether I liked this guy and it<br />

doesn’t seem worth it to eat something I don’t<br />

like, so it may be time to call it quits.”<br />

But that did not happen. The peas had not<br />

driven her away. However I wanted to avoid<br />

giving her any more reasons to stop eating<br />

with me. I had learned my lesson and decided<br />

to ask more questions about what she liked<br />

eating. I found out she liked Mexican and Asian<br />

food, and not long after we got engaged over a<br />

platter of Mexican-Asian nachos: a successful<br />

fusion dish with successful results.<br />

After twelve years of marriage and<br />

the addition of two sons to our fold,<br />

I still try to impress my wife with<br />

my cooking. Although I do a lot<br />

of things wrong in the kitchen,<br />

even when meticulously<br />

following a recipe, I hope that<br />

my attempts remind her that I<br />

wasn’t such a bad catch after all.<br />

And when I take over the kitchen I<br />

always ask, even if slightly uncertain after all<br />

these years, whether she likes persimmons, or<br />

bamboo shoots.<br />

To this day, especially when we are trying<br />

to get our two sons to try new foods, my wife<br />

says, “You know, I really hated peas until the<br />

first time your dad cooked dinner for me.”<br />

And I reply with, “Actually, your mother<br />

did not know how much she liked me until<br />

she tried peas. Only then did she realize she<br />

would do anything for me. And look where it<br />

got her: she has me and she likes peas.”<br />

I still make Chicken and Peas over Rice<br />

for our family of four. I know it may be<br />

unrefined, but I make it with love every time,<br />

because it could very well be one of those<br />

links in our relationship chain that made our<br />

love grow stronger. That first meal may not<br />

have been the way to my wife’s heart, but she<br />

learned that she can tolerate certain things<br />

for love. And I learned the importance of<br />

asking more questions.<br />

DARIN COOK is a regular <strong>Eatdrink</strong> contributor who<br />

lives and works in Chatham-Kent.


<strong>Eatdrink</strong>: The Local Food & Drink Magazine<br />

<strong>August</strong>/<strong>September</strong> <strong>2018</strong> | 47<br />

a<br />

movement<br />

for<br />

restaurants<br />

who believe<br />

local food<br />

matters.<br />

®<br />

A Feast On® Certification means<br />

you’re fighting the good food fight.<br />

You’re supporting our farmers<br />

and putting local food first.<br />

To get certified, visit:<br />

ONTARIOCULINARY.COM<br />

@ONTARIOCULINARY #FEASTON


48 |<strong>August</strong>/<strong>September</strong> <strong>2018</strong><br />

eatdrink.ca |@eatdrinkmag<br />

All the seafood you could want ...<br />

... right to your doorstep.<br />

Visit us in-store in KW or order online<br />

WWW.CAUDLESCATCHSEAFOOD.COM

Hooray! Your file is uploaded and ready to be published.

Saved successfully!

Ooh no, something went wrong!