Eatdrink Waterloo & Wellington #2 August/September 2018

Issue #W2 | August/September 2018 

eatdrink 

The LOCAL Food & Drink Magazine 

FREE 

Gilt 

Restaurant 

Small Plates 

& Big Flavour 

FEATURING 

Crafty Ramen 

Ramen Renaissance in Guelph 

Willibald Farm Distillery 

Taking It Slow in Ayr 

Road Trip! 

Stratford's 

Gastro 

Scene 

Where to Eat in 2018 

Serving Waterloo Region & Wellington County 

www.eatdrink.ca

2 |August/September 2018 

eatdrink.ca |@eatdrinkmag 

THE BACON AND ALE TRAIL 

IS A WELL ROUNDED MEAL 

IF YOU COUNT BARLEY 

AS A VEGETABLE 

Bacon and ale are a combination made in heaven, 

includes 5 tastes for just $30. 

- 

Stratford Tourism Alliance at 47 Downie Street. 

visitstratford.ca

eatdrink 

The LOCAL Food & Drink Magazine 

eatdrinkmagazine 

@eatdrinkmag 

eatdrinkmag 

eatdrink.ca 

Think Global. Read Local. 

Publisher 

Chris McDonell – chris@eatdrink.ca 

Managing Editor Cecilia Buy – cbuy@eatdrink.ca 

Food Editor Bryan Lavery – bryan@eatdrink.ca 

Editorial Consultant Andrew Coppolino 

Copy Editor Kym Wolfe 

Social Media Editor Bryan Lavery – bryan@eatdrink.ca 

Advertising Sales Chris McDonell – chris@eatdrink.ca 

Bryan Lavery – bryan@eatdrink.ca 

Stacey McDonald – stacey@eatdrink.ca 

Terry Lynn “TL” Sim – TL@eatdrink.ca 

Finances 

Ann Cormier – finance@eatdrink.ca 

Graphics 

Chris McDonell, Cecilia Buy 

Writers 

Jane Antoniak, Darin Cook, Andrew 

Coppolino, Gary Killops, Bryan Lavery, 

George Macke, Tracy Turlin 

Photographers Steve Grimes, Nick Lavery, Brogan McNabb 

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Website 

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OUR COVER 

An array of images helps capture some of the 

myriad urbane 

appeals of Gilt 

Restaurant 

in Downtown 

Kitchener. The 

ambiance, 

the cuisine, 

the location 

... Read the 

story by Bryan 

Lavery on 

page 6. 

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Contents 

Issue #W2 | August/September 2018 

Publisher’s Notes 

Spreading the Word 

Let's Communicate!! 

By CHRIS McDONELL 

5 

6 

Spirits 

Taking it Slow 


By ANDREW COPPOLINO 

38 

Restaurants 

Small Plates & Big Flavours 

Gilt Restaurant in Kitchener 

By BRYAN LAVERY 

6 

Ramen Renaissance 

Crafty Ramen in Guelph 


10 

Road Trips 

Stratford's Gastro Scene 

Where to Eat in 2018 


14 

The BUZZ 

Culinary Community Notes 

22 

Spotlight 

A Taste of Place 

Taste Detours in Guelph 

40 

Two Books on 

Eating Insects! 


28 

10 

42 

33 

14 

38 

Beer 

Twelve Temptations 

Local Craft Beers for Summer 

By GEORGE MACKE 

33 

Wine 

Finding “Somewhereness” 

Terroir In a Glass of Wine 

By GARY KILLOPS 

37 

Books 

Rustle Up Some Grubs 

Edible and Eat The Beetles! 

Reviews by DARIN COOK 

40 

Recipes 

Firehouse Chef 

Recipes from Canada’s Firefighters 

Review & Recipe Selections by TRACY TURLIN 

42 

The Lighter Side 

Give Peas a Chance 

By DARIN COOK 

46 

46

Eatdrink: The Local Food & Drink Magazine 

Publisher’s Notes 

Spreading the Word 

Let's Communicate! 

By CHRIS McDONELL 

August/September 2018 | 5 

Thank you for the warm welcome we 

have enjoyed in Waterloo Region 

& Wellington County! This is only 

our second issue here, so we're 

definitely the new kid on the block, but what 

a friendly neighbourhood we have moved 

into. We've been adding new distribution 

points for our print editions every week, at 

select locations where we think we're likely 

to find readers who will 

enjoy and appreciate our 

presentation of local food 

and drink stories. We do our best to keep 

that list updated on our website (eatdrink. 

ca/find-us). Of course, the magazine is also 

always available online, in full, for those who 

prefer that. The magazine scales beautifully 

to your device — smartphone, tablet or 

computer — and we encourage you to follow 

us on Facebook, Twitter or Instagram, or all 

three! Your feedback is always appreciated. 

In this issue, we're excited to tell the stories 

of two very different restaurants. Bryan 

Lavery visited Gilt Restaurant in Downtown 

Kitchener for Eatdrink, while Andrew 

Coppolino checked out Guelph's Crafty 

Ramen. We know that "all that glitters is not 

gold," but Bryan discovered that Gilt is truly 

golden, while Andrew found out that "craft" 

is definitely an apt descriptor for the food at 

Crafty Ramen. Our approach at Eatdrink is to 

only write about businesses that we like, and 

we're confident you will share our enthusiasm. 

Andrew also drove out to Ayr on the 

magazine's behalf to visit the innovative folks 

at Willibald Farm Distillery. Fortunately for 

consumers (us drinkers), the province of 

Ontario is removing some of the obstacles 

that have made the craft distillery business 

so challenging. Read on to see how cool 

agriculture can be. 

Bryan took a road trip to Stratford. In 

truth, he took a number of trips, and you'll 

see his recommendations on where to eat and 

eatdrink.ca 

drink in"Festival City." The theatre is world 

class, but so is Stratford's culinary scene. 

I know full well how much Bryan labours 

for this magazine, but it's also hard not to 

feel a little envy at times. An exploratory trip 

he took to Guelph with our sales rep TL Sim 

turned into such a treat that we found room 

to feature it in a short "Spotlight" story. Read 

about Taste Detours on page 28. 

Our cookbook reviewer 

Tracy Turlin spent some 

quality time with Canada's 

firefighters, but only through the pages of 

Firehouse Chef by Patrick Mathieu. Patrick 

is a firefighter with the Waterloo Fire 

Department and we've been looking forward 

to featuring his book for awhile. Bonus: we 

got permission to share three recipes and 

you'll find them all here. 

There's plenty more in this issue, with 

reviews of a couple of unusual (perhaps 

unsettling for some) books on eating insects. 

I do not envision many readers muttering 

"Yum" at this thought! But there is definitely 

food for thought there. 

I will close here with a plug for our "Buzz" 

column, which is our summary of the culinary 

news that we know our readers devour. We 

encourage local chefs, restaurateurs, managers 

— and readers — to send us info. While 

we've always got our ears to the ground, the 

area we cover is so large and there is so much 

happening that we truly need assistance with 

this. There is no charge to be included here 

and we strive to include as much news as 

possible. In addition to sharing this info in the 

magazine, we often also share it through our 

social media channels. Contact info is at the 

end of the Buzz column. We look forward to 

hearing from you. 

CHRIS McDONELL founded Eatdrink in 2007.



Restaurants 

Small Plates and Big Flavours 

Gilt Restaurant in Downtown Kitchener 


The culinary scene in Kitchener- 

Waterloo is being nourished by the 

community, including from the 

thriving tech industry (from indie 

startups to international goliaths), global think 

tanks, condo developments and downtown 

Kitchener’s pedestrian-friendly urban vibe 

and entrepreneurial spirit. The new LRT line 

is helping to transform the region by creating 

better access to Downtown Kitchener and 

Uptown Waterloo. Initiatives launched by the 

City of Kitchener to galvanize the downtown 

core are making an impact. New lighting was 

added to the streets, sidewalks were enlarged, 

and curbs were 

lowered. Planned 

developments are 

exploring ways to 

bring more retail and 

restaurants to the 

streetscape. 

Downtown 

Kitchener exemplifies 

a new urban identity, 

with arts, culture, 

recreation and 

commercial spaces 

that underpin an 

excellent quality of life and well-being. 

Anchored by Kitchener Market, this 

district is home to one of the region’s 

most interesting cluster of culturally 

diverse restaurants and eateries. Venture 

along King and Queen Streets to explore 

independent, locally owned shops, 

Gilt is urbane, open, airy and sophisticated, with 

lofty ceilings and a stylish and comfortable 

industrial ambiance. The 65-seat restaurant is 

located on the main floor of an office tower.



attractive cafés, pubs and great restos like TWH 

Social Club, La Cucina, The Rich Uncle, B at the 

Museum and Gilt Restaurant. The influx — and 

growth — of technology firms in Kitchener’s 

downtown have changed the area and the restaurant 

scene continues to morph to better serve not only 

the millennial crowd and the tech community but 

the increased foot traffic and energy that seasonal 

events bring to the core. 

Trella White and Stephanie Randall, both in 

their late twenties, grew up in Cambridge, Ontario, 

attending the same high school. Being roommates 

throughout university and friends since high school, 

they graduated from Wilfrid Laurier University with 

Bachelors of Business Administration. White and 

her mother (Starr) opened the much-lauded farmto-table 

inspired Cork Restaurant in Elora in 2010. 

After university, Stephanie joined them as a partner 

and took over the kitchen operations. 

Stephanie has a passion for the kitchen and quickly 

became an accomplished and creative cook under the 

chef at Cork. In relatively short order, she assumed 

the lead in the kitchen and along the way transformed 

into a professional, self-taught chef. Randall and 

White operated Cork for several years before they 

decided to expand their business interests. They 

set their sights on Kitchener-Waterloo, ultimately 

choosing their current location for their new 

restaurant. “Downtown Kitchener stood out to us, as 

it is a vibrant, creative, technology-driven community 

and we knew we had to be a part of it,” says White. 

"We didn’t want to be followers, we wanted to be 

leaders. When we moved to downtown Kitchener 

there weren’t any restaurants doing anything 

remotely similar to what we wanted to do. There was 

no one here downtown and we changed and innovated 

as the tech sector grew, evolving both the restaurant 

and catering business.” 

Gilt opened in September of 2014, a contemporary 

tapas restaurant with a millennial vibe in a 

re-purposed space in the heart of the technology 

triangle. The bar, lounge and 65-seat restaurant on the 

main floor of the office tower at 305 King Street West 

can also boast an elevated patio for alfresco eating and 

drinking. Gilt is urbane, open, airy and sophisticated, 

with lofty ceilings and a stylish and comfortable 

industrial ambiance. The music is upbeat. 

Gilt is about sharing, feasting, authenticity, quality 

ingredients and celebrating craft, innovation and 

From the top: Korean Fried Chicken (KFC) with honey bourbon and 

hoisin served with golden-brown potato puffs; 

Hot quail with grilled jalapeño cornbread, dill pickled, buttermilk 

aioli & Tennessee hot oil; 

Beef Tartar with yolk, toasted nori powder, ginger, soy, bird’s eye 

chillies, peanuts & cilantro, served with potato chips.



From the top: Ramp Tortellini with hibiscussoaked 

raspberries, smoked Gorgonzola, 

toasted hazelnuts & grilled mushrooms; 

Paella with saffron rice, Argentinian pink 

shrimp, littleneck clams & cornmealcrusted 

basa fish; 

Yellowfin Tuna Nachos; 

Right, from the top: Pickled Mussels with 

grilled broccoli, charred sweet potato 

challah bread & avocado yogurt; 

Pina colada Thai pancake; 

Grilled Shrimp with smashed potatoes, hard 

boiled egg, sweet pickled rhubarb & arugula; 

Beef tatami with watermelon radish, fresh 

chilis, tomatoes, sesame and pickled radish. 

tradition. Chef de cuisine Alex 

Janke has been at Gilt since the 

beginning. Randall and White 

tend to focus on the catering 

end of the business. The culinary 

team share innate instincts when 

it comes to flavours, marrying 

global ingredients and enriching 

dishes by taking them to other 

contemporary dimensions. In 

speaking with Janke, I learned 

that he has been cooking for a 

decade and attended the Culinary 

Management program at Niagara 

College. His repertoire includes 

a variety of cuisine ranging from 

Thai and Indian to French and 

Mexican. “My favourite flavour 

profiles are Thai and Mexican 

combined with local ingredients," 

says Janke. "For me, keeping 

ingredients as local as possible is 

essential if we would like to keep 

our farmers and businesses in 

Southern Ontario prosperous.” 

As for Janke’s favourite places 

in K-W, “I’d have to say Arabella 

Park Beer Bar if I’m going for a 

quick bite to eat and drink, and 

Red House is, in my 

opinion, one of the best 

restaurants in Waterloo.” 

Dinner service 

focuses on a well-chosen 

selection of smaller 

tapas-style offerings 

divided into categories: 

Fish, Meat and Vegetarian. 

This menu style 

proves to be infinitely 

versatile, giving diners 

the opportunity to 

curate their own tasting 

experience, rather than 

offering individual starters 

and main courses. 

Shareable plates allow 

diners to eat communally 

and sample a variety of 

items. Dishes are brought 

to the table gradually 

and continuously throughout the meal by conversant, 

friendly service professionals. 

The sharing and small plates menu appeal to the 

sophisticated, global palate, with culturally-grounded 

contemporary offerings like Middle Eastern-inspired


fried cauliflower florets with citrus aioli, 

chives, pomegranate, and pine nuts or baconwrapped 

dates with chorizo, which are rich, 

dense and sweet. Korean Fried Chicken (KFC) 

with honey bourbon and hoisin has a super 

crunchy kick and is served with golden-brown 

potato puffs. Yellowfin tuna nachos are served 

with mustard emulsion and a tangy lime aioli, 

with a soy reduction and crispy taro root 

chips. Brussels sprouts “Caesar” is prepared 

with fried caper popcorn, hard Spanish 

Manchego, orange wedges and blue cheese. 

The menu features an astonishingly 

delectable Beef Tartar with yolk, toasted 

nori powder, ginger, soy, bird’s eye chillies, 

peanuts and cilantro and served with potato 

chips. Try the Curried Oxtail with dukkhaseasoned 

(Egyptian spice blend) sweet potato 

gnocchi, candied ginger cream, parsnip chips 

and curried tomato butter or Lamb Neck 

Fries with hand-cut skinny fries, tamarind 

raita, tandoori salsa, feta cheese and aromatic 

Rogan Josh gravy. 

Sharing plates and appetizers have 

become the contemporary entrée, with 

tapas, cicchetti, meze, and other small tastes 

popping up on menus. Call it the era of the 

curated tasting menu, or cloud nine, for those 

diners who want to nosh on it all. Expect to 

order too much, and finish it all anyway. 

I asked White about why the restaurant is 

named Gilt. She explained how they loved the 

many iterations of the meaning of the word 

and how they applied to the restaurant: gilt as 

in "covered thinly with gold leaf or gold paint" 

(the restaurant has gold throughout it); as a 

homonym implying "all things guilty" (guilty 

pleasures); a female baby pig (pork being a 

staple and base of their cooking) and as a 

synonym for premium. 

Expect pleasant surprises. 

Gilt Restaurant 

305 King Street West, Kitchener 

giltrestaurant.ca 

519-954-6100 

sunday to wednesday 11:30 am–10:00 pm 

thursday to saturday 11:30 am–late 

Eatdrink Food Editor and Writer at Large, BRYAN 

LAVERY brings years of experience in the restaurant 

and hospitality industry, as a chef, restaurateur and 

consultant. Always on the lookout for the stories that 

Eatdrink should be telling, he helps shape the magazine 

both under his byline and behind the scenes. 

Sample delicious local eats, 

meet inspiring producers and 

marvel at the tempting array 

of fresh and artisanal edibles. 

From farm to table, pork to pies 

to pints, discover more 

in Perth County! 

restaurants 

farm gates 

food shops 

Find us, follow us! 

#DiscoverMore #PerthCounty 

@PerthCoTourism 

perthcountytourism.ca


Restaurants 

Ramen Renaissance 

Crafty Ramen in Guelph 



The idea of ramen has captured the popular 

culinary imagination. But the Japanese bowl 

of noodles, meats, vegetables and a soulsoothing 

broth isn’t as widely available in 

Waterloo Region and Wellington County as is, say, pho, 

the Vietnamese soup. Unless you consider the throngs 

of soup-slurpers who descend on tiny Crafty Ramen in 

downtown Guelph. 

The Macdonell Street restaurant, a diminutive 500 

square-foot space of repurposed workshop benches and 

old school floors, conjures images of the joints that the 

late Anthony Bourdain trekked to in his explorations 

of food and its cultural and sociological idiosyncrasies. 

The noodle shop is first-to-market in Guelph, and many 

other places nearby, too. Ten or so stools and a few 

tables — only 26 seats — provide for about 130 people 

a day. “The busiest day was about 280 bowls,” says 

co-owner Jared Ferrall. “It’s hotter weather now and 

the students are gone, but we still do good numbers.” 

Summer heat has prompted the appearance of four 

new cold bowls on the menu: a classic Hiyashi Chuka, 

a summer broth popular throughout Japan, and three 

Mazemen ramen of yuzu chicken, vegan sesame, and 

pulled pork with onsen tamago (soft-cooked egg). “We 

are making a different thicker noodle for these, that has 

more chew to it,” says Jared. 

Crafty Ramen opened in February 2017. The 

restaurant is the culmination of the efforts of an 

industrious pair: Jared and Miki Ferrall. The couple 

met in Vancouver. Jared, originally from England,


was doing his apprenticeship and Miki, from 

Iwate in northern Japan, and who had got 

her first job in a ramen shop at age 16, was 

working. “She was learning English, and I was 

doing my Red Seal,” Jared says. Since then, 

they’ve travelled the world. They spent four 

years exploring the food in Japan: Jared did 

some time in Ramsay and Ducasse kitchens 

in Tokyo; they both attended Yamato Ramen 

School. Having absorbed Japan and toyed 

with the idea (coming very close to sealing 

the deal) of opening a food catering van in 

Tokyo, they ended up in Guelph, where they 

share responsibilities for operating Crafty 

Ramen. The name has a whimsical quality, 

Jared acknowledges. “It just seemed to fit. We 

wanted to stay playful but highlight that what 

we do is crafted.” 

Crafty is simple too, he adds. “People come 

in, order, pay, sit down, eat, and leave.” That’s 

part and parcel of the rogue element in the 

sociology of ramen shops. “While there’s a lot 

of ramen in the Toronto area, there is nothing 

like this here… We’re in the tradition of a 

true ramen shop that’s innovative and chefdriven. 

Each wants to use the ingredients of 

the particular region. Actually, it’s the rogues 

of society in Japan that open up ramen shops. 

Everyone wants to do it their own way and 

has their own secret ingredients. That’s our 

style too. We don’t have seafood, for instance, 

and we use local producers for meats and 

vegetables. That’s our way.” Certainly driven 

by local ingredients, Crafty is no-frills, 

allowing staff to focus on food prep rather 

than running dishes to tables. You order up 

front and sit at a stool, and, actually, the space 

is larger than restaurants in Japan, says Jared. 

“There, you basically walk into a vending 

machine to buy a ticket.” 

The noodles you’re eating at Crafty come 

from a clunky-looking noodle machine 

imported from Shinagawa, Tokyo. “The 

machines are a really cool little business,” 

Jared says of the green contraption. “A father 

and son make them. You visit and they put 

it together for you.” With the machine they 

make thin noodles, and occasionally fat ones 

for specials, but there is not a wide range: the 

philosophy is to do a few things very well. They 

blend Canadian all-purpose flour and a hard 

bread flour from K2 Mill (a 126-year-old milling 

operation in Beeton, Ontario, northeast of 

Orangeville), which, he says, is a strong and 

flavourful flour. The other key to great ramen 

is potassium carbonate and sodium carbonate 

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(kansui, or lye water) — essential for a proper 

ramen noodle. “The alkalinity keeps the noodles 

from getting soft in the broth. It’s just wheat, water, 

kansui and salt.” The proof is often in the broth and 

rogues need not apply there. All the broths are made 

in-house and for assistance with that Crafty turns to 

neighbouring Trotter’s Butcher Shop for duck bones, 

pork bones and smoked pork trotters. The restaurant 

uses a reverse osmosis process to extract maximum 

flavour in making the broths. 

Good ramen combines noodles, broth, fat, 

toppings and tare, an ingredient that contains soy 

sauce, miso or black vinegar. That tare, a flavour 

base ingredient, brings saltiness to ramen along 

with added umami, and a touch of sweet, sour, or 

spice depending on its composition. There can be a 

dozen or more ingredients, which means gigantic 

flavour. You might notice a dollop of it go into the 

bottom of your bowl in ramen shops. Such tradition 

is good, and the process is complex: days of brining 

and simmering kombu, first in 60-degree water for 

an hour to infuse seaweed flavour; then the kombu 

is removed and shiitakes are introduced for an hour 

before cherry tomatoes get their hour. It takes time 

and training to hit the correct flavour notes. 

“The most popular ramen has been the Meat 

Lovers,” Jared says. That’s pork three ways with a 

side of tender chicken: pork jowl, pork chashu and 

salt- and sugar-cured pulled pork shoulder with 

12-hour brined and one-hour 73-degree sous-vide 

chicken breast. “We use modern techniques, though 

we’re not modernist cuisine. Just good food,” he 

says. There are also green onion, pickled shiitakes 

and burnt sesame oil in a rich chicken, pork, and 

duck broth. There’s a spicy vegan tofu mapo ramen 

with baby bok choy, sesame tare and vegetable 

broth. Also on the menu is a delicate and light gyoza 

snack that is packed with big flavour. It’s a specialty 

of Miki’s and a family recipe that she has been 

making since she was quite young. Her karaage, 

Japanese fried chicken, is delicious as well and is 

from a family recipe: crunchy outside and tender 

and moist inside with a terrific crispy kimchi mayo. 

The dish contains chicken thighs marinated in soy, 

ginger and garlic for two hours. The marinade then 

becomes the liquid for the potato starch-corn starch 

batter for those little crispy bits on the outside. The 

dipping sauce is a Kewpie mayo, with crispy bits. 

And yet it’s not authentic, Ferrall is quick to 

stress, citing a simple fact that people forget when 

looking for “authenticity” — after all, we’re 10,000 

kilometers from Japan. Make it as authentic as 

possible, though: slurp the noodles and do it 

quickly. There’s a practical reason for this: the quick 

and simultaneous aspiration of air with the thin 

noodles captures the broth so it doesn’t fall away.


Sip. Savour. Stroll. 

Soak up the sun and 

experience the warm lake 

breeze on one of Elgin’s 

many outdoor patios. 

SoLo on Main 

As the two-year mark for the business 

approaches, the Ferralls say they’re looking 

for a venue to open another Crafty Ramen — 

possibly in Kitchener — but they have to be 

sure they can address properly the details of 

a dish, from the noodles to the broth to the 

meats and seasoning. 

Small may be traditional, but that doesn’t 

make it easy. Ramen expectations, though 

there are relatively few local examples, are 

high when it comes to deliciousness framed 

within the right atmosphere and ambiance 

of the restaurant. Currently, they’ve hit the 

mark, he acknowledges. “It’s a successful 

model for business, but we still have to strive 

for really good food at a reasonable price.” 

Crafty Ramen 

17 Macdonell Street, Guelph 

info@craftyramen.com 

519-824-8330 

sunday–monday: closed 

tuesday–thursday: 11:30 am–9 pm 

friday–saturday: 11:30 am–9:30 pm 

ANDREW COPPOLINO is a Kitchener-based writer 

and broadcaster. He is publisher of Waterloo Region Eats 

(waterlooregioneats.com) a longstanding online resource 

dedicated to food, dining, restaurants, chefs, sustainability 

and agriculture. Andrew also serves as a regional 

Eatdrink Editorial Consultant. 

Windjammer Inn 

Kettle Creek Inn 

Visit savourelgin.ca 

to plan your next 

culinary adventure in 

Elgin County!



Sponsored By 

Road Trips 

Stratford’s Gastro Scene 

Where to Eat and Drink in 2018 


Renowned for its annual Shakespeare 

Festival, its gastro scene and 

hometown boy Justin Bieber, Stratford 

is anything but a quiet little town. 

Over the past couple of decades, Stratford’s 

been building a reputation as an innovational, 

entrepreneurial culinary destination. 

This year there are new kids on the culinary 

scene like Planet Diner and The Common. 

York Street Kitchen was purchased by the 

Windsor Hospitality Group and has moved 

back to a larger revitalized space on York 

Street, previously occupied by the former 

Linleys Food Shop. Founder Susie Palach will 

be sorely missed. Edison’s Café Bar, where all 

food is prepared in-house using fresh, organic 

ingredients, has become a charming hub. 

While you are in the area be sure to explore 

the bucolic countryside in and around Perth 

and Oxford Counties. Take in the small towns 

of St Marys, Shakespeare, Woodstock and 

New Hamburg. Drop by the Stratford Tourism 

Alliance for tickets to self-guided culinary 

tours like the Bacon & Ale Trail and Chocolate 

Trail, which are available all year round. 

Stratford is awash with culinary “hubs” 

where locals, visitors, chefs, farmers, artists and 

Planet Diner 

Stratford Chefs School’s annual Long Table Dinner, 2017 

artisans gather, such as Market Square, Your 

Local Market Co-op, the Local Community Food 

Centre, Stratford Farmers’ Market at the Agriplex 

(on Saturdays) and the Slow Food Farmers’ 

Market (on Sundays). There are many great 

retailers like Bradshaws Kitchen Detail, Downie 

Street Bakehouse (“Really Good Bread from the 

Wrong Side of the Tracks”), Watson’s Chelsea 

Bazaar and the Milky Whey Fine Cheese Shop. 

Windsor Hospitality Group’s Executive Chef 

Ryan O’Donnell is excited about the synergies 

the culinary team is creating with The Prune, 

Bar One Fifty One, Mercer Kitchen and York 

Street Kitchen, and how they help create 

better and better food. “This flexibility to 

react to the best products, as well as synergies 

between all our restaurants in Stratford, will 

be the most exciting part of the new Prune in 

my opinion,” says O’Donnell. 

Anne Campion’s Revel on Market Square is a 

favourite go-to for a cup of Las Chicas del Café 

coffee, sourced from the owners’ family-run 

farm in the Nicaraguan rainforest. We love the 

custom-made communal table. On Downie 

Street The Pulp, Stratford’s plant-based “fresh 

bar,” features cold-pressed juice, smoothies and 

clean eating with vegan and gluten- and dairyfree 

options. Grounded is a newer business,



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Sunday 10–2 at Stratford Slow Food Market 

98 Wellington St., Stratford 519.497.5167 

soupsurreal.com 

creating fresh, healthy, plant-based food using 

whole ingredients. At the time of writing, 

Grounded is set to open a storefront on Erie St. 

Shakespeare Brewing Company is the 

newest craft brewer in the area, and uses 

100% local ingredients. The owners believe the 

local terroir is reflected in the flavours of their 

craft beers. Black Swan Brewing Company 

continues to create innovative seasonal 

flavours in addition to the core products: EPA, 

IPA and porter. You might want to sample the 

refreshing Raspberry Wild Child, made in the 

German sour beer style. 

After 30 years, Chef Bryan Steele has 

left The Prune. He continues to be a senior 

cookery instructor at Stratford Chefs School. 

Lamentably, Rundles and Monforte on 

Wellington are gone. Here are a few of my 

recommendations, in alphabetical order, of 

where to eat and drink in 2018. 

Bar One Fifty One at The Prune has a relaxed 

and elegant vibe, the perfect backdrop for 

signature cocktails and a varied wine list. 

This season the focus is on seafood with an 

emphasis on small plates and raw bar offerings. 

Bubbles and Oysters anyone? 151 Albert Street, 

519-271-5052, theprune.ca /bar-one-fifty-one 

Bijou’s farm-to-table blackboard pre-theatre 

dinner menu is prix fixe. Mark and Linda 

Simone purchased the legacy restaurant four 

years ago, and added a new entrance off of 

Wellington Street and a small bar in the front 

area. Chef Roddy Eastman and his team also 

offer a globally-inspired tapas bar menu of 

small plates (available after 7: 30 p.m., 7:45 

p.m. Friday and Saturday). 105 Erie Street, 

(2nd entrance off of Wellington Street), 519- 

273-5000, bijourestaurant.com


The Bruce is at the high end of the dining 

spectrum. Chef Arron Carley, sous chef 

Christopher Howard and pastry chef Erin 

Negus define “New Canadiana” by using only 

ingredients found in Canada, enhanced by 

produce from their own farm and gardens. 

Prix fixe menus (3-courses for $95.00 with a 


celebrating 122 years in stratford 

The Bruce 

$45.00 optional wine pairing) or the avantgarde 

“Fauna” tasting menu (7-courses for 

$115.00 with a $65.00 optional wine pairing) 

are laden with ingredients which the term 

“New Canadiana” evokes. Breakfast, lunch and 

Sunday brunch are à la carte, and The Lounge 

offers a separate menu. There is a stylish 

courtyard for al fresco dining. 89 Parkview 

Drive, 855-708-7100, thebruce.ca 

The Common is located in the refurbished 

space previously occupied by Monforte on Wellington. 

Chef Tim Otsuki offers a mix of global 

comfort food. Think, Imam Bayildi stuffed 

roasted eggplant with sweet onions, peppers, 

spicy chickpeas, rice pilaf and house yogurt; or 

Hot Spatchcock Chicken Sandwich with bread 

pudding stuffing and gravy; or Roast Hoisin 

Pork Tenderloin 

with Szechuan stirfry 

vegetables on 

The Common 

steamed rice pilaf. 

The tagline is “Eat 

Without Borders.” 

There is a newly 

appointed patio for 

outdoor drinking 

and dining. 80 Wellington 

Street, 519- 

271-0999, thecommonstratford.com 

Foster’s Inn is 

Stratford’s original 

heritage boutique 

inn, situated in a


um 

A restaurant inspired by 

local ingredients. 

Run by workers. 

Owned by workers. 

Shared by the Community. 


um 

7 Days a Week 

Reservations Recommended 

64 Wellington St, Stratford 

redrabbitresto.com 

519.305.6464 

@redrabbitresto 

global tapas with local ingredients 

fresh cocktails 

Perfect for dinner before or snacks after the show 

Wednesday–Sunday from 5pm 

85 Downie St, Stratford 

(next to Avon Theatre) 

519.305.8585 

85Downie.com 

Foster’s Inn 

turn-of-the-century building two doors from the 

Avon Theatre off of Market Square. Restaurateur 

Craig Foster prides himself on the authenticity 

of the hospitality and service. The inn features 

nine individually-appointed guest rooms, a 

restaurant, and a tiny cocktail bar. Foster’s is a 

go-to for mouth-watering char-grilled steaks and 

burgers as well as re-imagined comfort foods 

made with local ingredients. There is a House 

Cured and Cold-Smoked Pork Tenderloin and a 

Coconut Green Curry Tofu. 111 Downie Street, 

519-271-1119, fostersinn.com 

This season Mercer Kitchen + Beer Hall + 

Hotel has some great new menu items, while 

retaining some tried and true signatures. The 

casual brasserie-style ambience is inspired by the 

concept of izakaya — informal Japanese beer 

pubs. There are 15 draft lines and over 120 bottles, 

including international award-winners and 

hard-to-find one-offs. Menus showcase items 

that are meant to 

be shared communally 

and are 

perfect for the 

lively, dynamic 

atmosphere. 

Try the House- 

Smoked Salmon 

Board with 

herbed chèvre, 

red onion, fried 

capers and roe, or 

a choice of Banh 

Mi, or Korean 

Mercer Kitchen 

BBQ-glazed Crispy Chicken Rice Bowl. 104-108 

Ontario Street, 519-271-9202, mercerhall.ca 

The Mill Stone features a globally-inspired 

all-day menu, bolstered by a rotating selection 

of feature dishes that focus on light and 

healthy fare with plant-based and gluten-free 

options. New this year is a nose-to-tail feature 

that explores the hidden gems of whole 

animal butchery. Sweetbreads, chicken hearts



“A fun place to shop 

for housewares and gifts!” 

Create a completely original tablescape 

every time by mixing and matching 

blue and white patterns. 

Classically Beautiful. 

The Mill Stone 

and cod tongues are some of the dishes in 

store. This high-energy bistro features locallybrewed 

beer on tap and a varied bottle list, 

with a focus on Canadian wines and a refined 

international selection. Ontario Street, 519- 

273-5886, themillstone.ca 

Okazu 85 Downie is Stratford’s hot spot 

for delicious chef-inspired cuisine and is the 

perfect after theatre or late-night stop. Stop 

by for dinner 

to taste global 

fusion prepared 

with local 

inspiration, 

or for fresh 

cocktails like 

the Yuzu Sour 

or Mermaid 

Margarita, 

shaken or 

Okazu 85 Downie 

stirred by the 

fabulous staff 

until the early 

hours. Chef de cuisine Angela Murphy and Ben 

O’Brien spin a modern twist on dim sum and 

tapas featuring items like rustic-style Perth 

pork paté with fruit chutney; spice-rubbed 

pork belly with sticky rice; and potato curry 

with roasted cauliflower, house masala, pickled 

greens and lentil salad. 85 Downie Street, 519- 

305-8585, OkazuSnackBar.com 

Pazzo Taverna and Pizzeria. The street-level 

taverna offers rustic Italian-inspired cuisine 

in a contemporary setting overlooking the 

Avon River. The pizzeria, located in the historic 

building's cellar, is renowned for its buildyour-own 

thin crust pizza. Chef Yva Santini is 

celebrating her eleventh season at the 21-year-old 

restaurant. All of the incredible pastas are made 

in-house. Santini showcases simple, natural 

flavours of locally-sourced meats and produce in 

the Italian tradition, combined with a diverse list 

of Canadian and imported wines by the glass and 

bottle. There is a charming street-side patio. 70 

Ontario Street, 519-273-6666, pazzo.ca 

WATSON’S 

CHELSEA BAZAAR 

84 Ontario St. Stratford 

watsonsofstratford.com 

519-273-1790 

The Ultimate Family Fun Weekend 

Ontario Garlic & Artisan Market 

featuring over 60 vendors 

• Exclusive Tastings pairing artisanal 

cheeses with wines, beers and spirits 

• Cooking Demonstrations 

• Educational Forums 

• Live Entertainment 

September 8th & 9th 

Stratford Rotary Complex, 353 McCarthy Road 

Admission $10/day or $15 for 2-day pass 

Children 12 & under free 

Free parking and bike valet service


The Planet Diner, with candy-apple red 

upholstered booths and 50s vibe, is warm 

and welcoming with enthusiastic and wellinformed 

staff. Owner Dee Christensen says, 

“This is where herbivores can bring their 

carnivore friends.” Most items on the menu 

are derived from plant-based foods, with a 

few meat-based options. There’s just nothing 

like the Chick’un burger made in-house with 

vegan buffalo butter. Try the cashew-based 

banana split, bound to be a hit with die-hard 

ice cream lovers. 118 Downie Street, 519-305- 

5888, theplanetdiner.com 

The Prune has been a Stratford favourite since 

1977. Chef de cuisine Jamie Crosby is leading 

the culinary team. He was formerly chef de 

Cuisine at The Little Inn in Bayfield, and most 

recently chef de partie at restaurateur Jenn 

Agg’s Grey Gardens in Toronto. Crosby and 

sous chef Mike Booth are planning on keeping 

the menu fluid this season by changing it daily, 

if necessary, to showcase the best of Perth 

County’s bounty as it arrives at the kitchen 

door. There is a prix fixe menu, offering three 

courses for $79.00 or four courses for $89.00 

or a six-course “Carte Blanche” for $109.00. 

Wine pairing packages are available. 151 Albert 

Street, 519-271-5052, theprune.com 

Raja Fine Indian Cuisine 

Raja Fine Indian Cuisine is the definitive 

place for authentic Northern Indian food in 

Stratford. Raja offers upscale Indian cuisine 

in sophisticated and elegant surroundings, 

and knowledgeable, well-trained staff. The 

service is white linen, deferential and friendly. 

Foods are prepared from scratch with fresh 

ingredients. The heat quotient of dishes can 

be adjusted to guest preferences. Raja offers 

milder Indian fare such as Butter Chicken, 

Korma, and Tikka Masala. 10 George Street 

West, 519-271-3271, rajastratford.ca 

The Red Rabbit. “A locally sourced 

restaurant, run by workers, owned by 


The Red Rabbit 

workers, shared by the community,” sums up 

the three-year-old resto’s ethos. Jonathan 

Naiman is now the head chef with Sean 

Collins overseeing the kitchen as executive 

chef. Chef Collins terms the cooking at Red 

Rabbit as “flavour first, ingredient driven,” 

and his motto is, “We cook food we like to 

eat.” The team has crafted an evolving menu 

of well-executed comfort foods. The fixed price 

menu returns for pre-theatre dining Tuesday 

to Saturday, 5-7 p.m., with the “After 7” menu 

available from 7:30 p.m. onward Thursday 

to Saturday evenings. The Red Rabbit is 

known for Colonel Collins fried chicken and 

waffles (available at lunch). Its secret recipe 

of thirteen herbs and spices, maple syrup 

and carrot hot sauce has made it a Stratford 

culinary staple. 64 Wellington Street, 519-305- 

6464, redrabbitresto.com 

Revival House and The Belfry is Stratford’s 

home for live music, dining and events, and 

it continues to play host to many touring and 

local Canadian artists throughout the summer 

season. Chef Loreena Miller and culinary team 

are passionate about creating and serving 

foods that express the depth of Perth County’s 

food culture. Recent menus have revived 

French-Canadian style cuisine, with an added 

modern sensibility. Upstairs, The Belfry 

features a 60-seat gastro-lounge and a VIP 

balcony called Confession. There is a 48-seat 

garden terrace-oasis beside the Brunswick 

Revival House


Street entrance. High Tea and Sunday Brunch 

add another layer of temptation to the 

offerings. 70 Brunswick Street, 519-273-3424, 

revival.house 

Romeos Corner Café, a friendly, familyoperated 

restaurant, features comfortable 

booths and tables and is within walking 

distance of the Festival Theatre. There is 

Romeos Corner Café 

an extensive breakfast menu with omelets, 

skillets and a “Benvolio Benny” with 

mushrooms, spinach and caramelized onions. 

A menu of elevated comfort foods is also 

offered for lunch and dinner including savoury 

Chicken Pot Pie, Ontario grass-fed Beef 


Burgers and Mac N Cheese. There are some 

tables for outdoor dining. 584 Ontario Street, 

519-272-2777 

York Street Kitchen is Stratford’s 

quintessential sandwich shop and has been 

a local institution since 1989. This popular 

diner and takeaway offer fabulous build 

your own “Show Stoppers” sandwiches. Try 

“The Mennonite” sandwich with Bauman’s 

Summer Sausage, honey mustard, mayo, 

cheddar, corn relish, lettuce and tomato on 

sourdough bread. Other options include 

“Not Sandwiches”, “Swell Sides” and housemade 

“Sweets”. The YSK’s famous take-out 

window is perfect for your picnic in the 

park. New location is in the former Linleys 

Food Shop at 51 York Street, 519-273-7041, 

yorkstreetkitchen.com 

Eatdrink Food Editor and Writer at Large, BRYAN 

LAVERY brings years of experience in the restaurant 

and hospitality industry, as a chef, restaurateur and 

consultant. Always on the lookout for the stories that 

Eatdrink should be telling, he helps shape the magazine 

both under his byline and behind the scenes. 

WHERE TASTE REIGNS SUPREME 

FINE INDIAN CUISINE 

Stratford 

10 George St. W. 

519-271-3271 

Kitchener 

725 Belmont Ave. W. 

519-208-2811 

rajaindiancuisine.ca



The BUZZ 

Culinary Community Notes 

New and Notable 

Compiled by ANDREW COPPOLINO, BRYAN LAVERY and THE EDITORS 

This column consists of regional culinary 

information, including a large scoop 

of local news and inside information. 

There is no charge to be included here, 

and we encourage chefs, restaurateurs, brewers, 

fundraisers, culinary artisans, farmers — and 

everyone else with information to share — to send 

us details. Short and sweet! We want to include as 

many items as possible. See the end of this column 

for contact details. 

Kitchener 

Since 1969, Kitchener-Waterloo Oktoberfest has 

developed its own traditions, becoming the largest 

Bavarian festival in North America with the greatest 

Thanksgiving Day Parade in Canada. Thousands 

of visitors celebrate annually in our Festhallen, 

and by attending one or more of our 40 family 

and cultural events. Through the celebration of 

this spirit of Gemuetlichkeit, the local economy 

is stimulated and over 70 charities and not-forprofit 

organizations raise funds to support the 

high quality of life enjoyed in Kitchener-Waterloo. 

Tickets for the 50th Anniversary event (October 

5–13) are on sale now. oktoberfest.ca 

The King-Scott area of downtown Kitchener has 

seen several changes in the food landscape of late. 

With its low-profile geography, Stonegate Bistro, 

located in the subterranean depths of Scott Street 

between Duke and King, has closed. The venue had 

something of a loyal following and the occasion 

to prepare a culinary throwback, whether ironic 

or not, every now and then: cedar-plank salmon. 

A cryptic sign on the restaurant door says a new 

restaurant will be “opening soon,” in typical 

restaurant-speak. 

At street level and right on top of the former 

Stonegate is Elevenses on Scott (elevensesonscott. 

com), a café, lunch stop and snack shop that has 

recently changed hands. 519-579-7661 

Just around the corner on King Street, Sahar 

Kitchen Indian has taken over space vacated by the 

Korean restaurant Shinla Garden. A few blocks west 

is Izna Japanese Donburi House, which at the time 

of writing was close to opening. 

Legacy Greens is moving to Ontario Street between 

Duke and King, helping create a little food hub 

for a block or two. It started as a fall and pre- 

Christmas “pop-up” greens shop, but its immediate 

popularity prompted owner Jordan Dolson to stay 

open year-round. Dolson says the move is exciting. 

“We had the opportunity to purchase the property 

and renovate it to our needs,” Dolson says. The 

re-location gave Legacy the chance to build an 

accessible entrance and a bifold door to create 

both “an outdoor feel” and street-merchandising 

opportunity. There’s also a commercial kitchen 

in the new space. “For the most part,” Dolson 

adds, “we have all the same products and same 

prices, but we now have the building block in 

place to grow our prepared food options and 

retail sales.” That makes it another great addition 

to the growing downtown Kitchener food scene. 

legacygreensonline.com/ 

Nearby, Mark’s Caribbean Kitchen and Seafood 

has opened at 20 King Street East, a venue for 

restaurants that dates to the 1990s. Mark’s is 

virtually directly across the street from Rainbow 

Caribbean, long a popular place for patties and 

other Jamaican fare. A blend of cultures, the kitchen 

prepares both a $13 fish and chips and a $36 surf and 

turf with lobster. markscaribbeankitchen.ca 

The popular Relish Cooking Studio, formerly on 

Regina Street in Uptown Waterloo, has moved to 

90 Victoria Street North in Kitchener in the same 

plaza as Cake Box. A kitchen store and culinary 

education facility with regular cooking classes (for 

summer classes sign up online) and guest chefs, 

Relish is owned and operated by Donna-Marie Pye 

and Maria Burjoski. Incidentally, the kitchen from 

their Regina Street facility is for sale, with asking 

price $5,000. 

A few blocks away at The Tannery, Balzac’s Coffee 

Roasters, with several locations in southwestern


Ontario including Waterloo, has re-modelled and 

re-envisioned the décor in their store neighbouring 

Communitech. Balzac’s owner Diane Olsen says 

they brightened up the space and are better set 

up to hold events and a variety of functions. That 

makes it a good place to enjoy their nitro cold brew 

coffee (a partnership with Toronto’s Junction Craft 

Brewing), on tap and an excellent rich and creamy 

sip for the hot summer months. balzacs.com/ 

locations/kitchener/ 

Just across the street from the Market and Nova Era 

in the new building at the corner of King and Cedar 

streets is the awkwardly named Pho Vietnam K & 

W. (Along with Salvadoran pupusas, the downtown 

has several pho restaurants.) Drop by and say 

hello: there’s no phone number or website readily 

available yet. 

Joining the bevy of international food vendors 

upstairs at the Kitchener Market (300 King 

Street East) is Naranj Blossom, a Syrian-Turkish 

restaurant serving modern fare serving sweet and 

savoury fare. Call 519-573-1353. 

In the Belmont-Highland food hub, Muya Ethiopian 

restaurant is undergoing renovations and an 

expansion to the half-dozen or so tables in its 

dining room. muyarestaurant.com 

The long-time Weston Bakery outlet store on 

Victoria closed on July 20. AM Africa restaurant on 

King Street East near Rockway Gardens Kitchener 

also closed. 

Is this the future of dining out? North America's firstof-its-kind 

smart dining experience from Graffiti 

Market, Red Circle Coffee Co., Red Circle Brewing 

Co., Ignite Restaurant Group and Kodisoft Smart 

Dining Tables (a state-of-the-art ordering system) 

are introducing a new program. Located in Kitchener 

at Catalyst137, the technology accelerator (formerly 

a tire warehouse on Glasgow St.) is the world's 

largest IoT manufacturing hub. Graffiti Market 

began with the goal of fuelling the creative spirit 

in its staff, customers and community through a 

unique mixture of food, art and technology. As North 

America’s first-of-its-kind restaurant, retail market, 

microbrewery, coffee roaster and bakery, Graffiti 

Market has partnered with Kodisoft, providing 

patrons with a unique dining environment and a new 

way to discover the Graffiti Market menu featuring 

Detroit-style pizza, housemade pasta and rotisserie 

chicken. Whether you’re immersed in the interactive 

Smart Tables, admiring the murals created by local 

artists, or simply enjoying one of the in-house made 

Red Circle beers or coffees, you’re sure to experience 

something unique. graffitimarket.ca 

growers & creators of fine lavender products 

DISCOVER 

Steed & Company Lavender, part of a 

45-acre horse farm just outside of Sparta 

INDULGE 

in our unique handcrafted lavender products 

ESCAPE 

in the wonderful scent and 

calming powers of lavender 

519-494-5525 

47589 Sparta Line, Sparta 

buds@steedandcompany.com 

Open Wed–Sat 10-5; Sun 12–4 

Mother’s Day to Dec. 19 

PLUS June–Labour Day: Tues 10-5 

www.steedandcompany.com 

Enjoy 

Our Annual 

Lavender Fairy 

Festival 

Saturday, Aug. 11 

Noon–4pm 

Bring 

Your Wings! 

Farm to table award winning 

hand crafted alpine style cheese 

Tuesday to Friday 9am–5pm 

Saturday 9am–4pm 

Stonetown Artisan Cheese 

5021 Perth Line 8 

St. Marys ON 

Gift Baskets & 

Gift Boxes 

Cheese Trays 

Fondue & Raclette 

519-229-6856 

info@stonetowncheese.com 

www.stonetowncheese.com


Carly Blasutt and Ryan Murphy’s new iteration 

of Public Kitchen & Bar is a stylish independently 

owned restaurant in one of Kitchener’s oldest 

neighborhoods. They take pride in creating 

delicious small, shareable plates and well-crafted 

cocktails. They also offer new and old world wines 

and an all-Ontario craft beer list at reasonable 

prices. kwpublic.com 

Jill and Mica Sadler had a vision to create a socially 

vibrant dining experience where people could come 

together, enjoy great beer, wine, share charcuterie 

BIG OR SMALL, 

WE CATER ’EM ALL 

We specialize in bringing Southern hospitality 

and our award-winning food to your special 

occasion. 

OUR PLACE OR YOURS 

Our upstairs event space, 

The Lanc Loft, features a 

full bar, separate washrooms, 

PA system, tables and chairs. 

Our fully-mobile food truck has complete 

kitchen facilities wherever you need us! 

EAT LOCAL. EAT FRESH. 

lancsmokehouse.com 

574 Lancaster Street West Kitchener ON 

Monday–Saturday Open @ 11:30am 

Contact our Catering Manager for booking inquiries 

519.743.4331 | info@lancsmokehouse.com 


and cheese boards and other locally-sourced eats. 

Swine and Vine was born earlier in the year, to 

accomplish just that. The charming and updated 

premises at 295 Lancaster Street West in Kitchener, 

was previously occupied by Public Kitchen & Bar 

which has moved a few blocks to Victoria Street. 

swineandvine.ca 

Unique and delicious, original creations from 

master baker Martha Borys, The Lancaster 

Co.’s new Crumb Bakehouse offers pies, cakes, 

cookies, bars, milk buns, baguettes, beignets, 

cornbread, pastries, and breads — both artisan 

and rustic, yeast and quick-breads alike. Crumb 

Bakehouse currently resides within The Lancaster 

Smokehouse, but they have plans to expand the 

Bakehouse into its own retail and kitchen space 

in the future. lancsmokehouse.com/crumbbakehouse 

Waterloo 

Welcome to Meltwich Food Co., Waterloo, in the 

busy and crowded King-University food hub near 

Wilfrid Laurier University. There have been a 

couple of grilled cheese shops in the area, and this 

one is obviously targetting students. And drawing 

on the “Food Co.” Identifier. Pick a sandwich base 

and add toppings. There are burgers and Philly 

Cheesesteaks too. Cheese and especially Cheddar 

plays a big part. meltwich.ca/waterloo/ 

Also near Laurier, Kitchener’s Metro Restaurant 

— long a favourite for schnitzel and Germanic fare 

— has taken over Frat Burger, at one time no less 

than a Mecca for burger aficionados who loved their 

tri-blend of house-ground burger meat that was 

cooked a bit pink if you asked for it. The restaurant is 

a combination of the two called Metro on King (even 

though it is on University Avenue). fratburger.ca 

Serving what they describe as 100 per cent plantbased 

“power food,” Copper Branch in the heart of 

Uptown Waterloo, which is really downtown, has 

! 

da 

Windjammer 

The 

DINE 

STAY 

Recommended in Where To Eat In Canada for 10 years 

Modern Farmhouse Cuisine Wednesday–Sunday 

INN 

Join us for Dinner & Weekend Brunch 

Comfortable Accommodations Year Round 

324 Smith St, Port Stanley • 519-782-4173 • www.thewindjammerinn.com


been open since early 2018. “We offer healthy food 

that people can feel good about eating and that 

tastes great,” says Ashley York, store supervisor. 

They serve some playfulness in the form of 

zucchini noodles with Sicilian “Coppernata.” Get it? 

copperbranch.ca 

The appearance of Mashawi Waterloo near 

Conestoga Mall proves the adage that there is 

always room for more shawarma, the ubiquitious 

middle eastern roasted meat dish. mashawi.ca 

Weber Street Public House, Waterloo, has opened 

for business, fitting into the former long-time 

Benny’s location. Recently, the location at Weber 

Street and Lodge was the reappearance of the oncepopular 

Mother’s Pizza (which collapsed quickly 

after it opened). 

Cambridge 

In Cambridge — Preston, to be specific — Top 

Market Meats has a bricks-and-mortar presence 

at 960 King Street East that, while only 650 square 

feet, is serving customers a wide selection of 

“seasonal goodness,” according to owner and 

farmer Leslie Zinger. “It’s everything local: meats, 

cheese, eggs, vegetables, fruits, honey, maple syrup 

and more.” The selection changes with the seasons, 

she adds. “We also work with other local farmers 

and online businesses that use Top Market as a 

pickup location.” That’s collaborative and smart 

business. facebook.com/topmarketmeats/ 

Nearby at 763 King Street East Cambridge is Wuddup 

Dog, a hotdog and sausage joint—what they call 

“gourmet street meat”—for dine-in, take-out 

and delivery. Needless to say, there are many dog 

varieties and fries, onion rings, mac-and-cheese 

but also an assortment of deep-fried desserts. 

Owner Todd Johns says be on the lookout for them 

to be moving to a new location. facebook.com/ 

wuddupdog/ 


Guelph & Wellington County 

A few weeks open and a new Mexican restaurant in 

the heart of downtown Guelph is understandably 

busy with customers curious about the food. La 

Reina — “The Queen” — opened in late June in 

the space that was formerly Van Gogh’s Ear at 10 

Wyndham Street North. Calling themselves “an 

authentic Mexican restaurant,” La Reina draws on 

three Mexican-born chefs and serves several familiar 

dishes such as flautas, carne asada and ceviche as 

well unique dishes such as guajillo-braised lamb 

Award Winning 

Artisan Cheese 

Come Experience Our World! 

Visit our cheese shop and sample our 

unique handmade cheeses. 

See and learn about how cheese is made. 

Enjoy the scenery on our 3-generation family farm. 

Group tours are available by reservation. 

MON-SAT 9-5 

445172 Gunn's Hill Rd, Woodstock, ON 

519-424-4024 

www.gunnshillcheese.ca 

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borrego, braised venison and avocado and a confit 

of peaches, according to owner Bryan Steele (not 

the Stratford Chefs School Bryan Steele). There’s 

also a late-night menu, cocktails and tequila. And 

check out the dessert menu: there’s a suggestion to 

“Tip the Kitchen” with either Sol or Modelo beer. “I’ve 

seen what the kitchen goes through,” says Steele, a 

Humber culinary grad. “This is to show appreciation 

for what they do.” lareina519.com/ 

Head over to Carden Street and you’ll find Tomme 

Cheese Shop, which opened in late June with a goal 

to fill a gap in the fine cheese market in the city. 

They’re currently doing that with about 100 cheeses 

in stock from local to international. “And we’re not 

finished yet,” says owner Andrew Wheeler. He and 

his wife Kim Wheeler came to Guelph and fell in 

love with the city about eight years ago. “We love 

food and asked what do we need here?” Cheese 

was the answer. To go with it, there is just about 

everything you need for charcuterie boards or a 

stand-alone cheese feast. Tomme has partnered 

with Guelph businesses Trotter’s Butcher Shop 

and Charcuterie and Polestar Hearth Bakery. As 

for the name, which denotes an Alpine cheese, “we 

just liked the sound of the word,” says Wheeler. 

facebook.com/tommecheeseshop/ 

We send congratulations to Western Burgers 

and Steaks in downtown Guelph, who recently 

celebrated their fifth anniversary. That’s makes the 

traditional gift given wood, fitting for the modernday 

saloon in the former Diplomat Hotel from the 

19th century. facebook.com/WesternGuelph 

The building on the northwest corner of London 

and Woolwich roads, the former home of With the 

Grain, is in the process of being refurbished by the 

Neighbourhood Group of Companies (NGC). The 

group behind Borealis in Kitchener and Guelph, The 

Wooly Pub and Miijidaa Café & Bistro are set to open 

a new restaurant. Going back to square one, Court 

Desautels dove into the site’s history, right back to 

the 1890s when it was known as Park Grocery. The 

crowning achievement for the NGC is it receiving B 

Corp Certification in the spring of 2016. The rigorous 

process for qualification requires a company to 

focus on its staff, the community and the physical 

environment rather than solely chasing profits. NGC 

is the largest restaurant group in the world to have 

achieved B Corp certification. 

The Townships & Beyond 

For the first time since it opened in 1975, the St. 

Jacobs Farmers’ Market was sold to new owners 

in the spring. The Shantz family, which owns 

Mercedes Corp. together with more than 40 independent 

shareholders, sold the market, along with 


several other businesses to the Schlegel family’s 

Schlegel Urban Developments. The new Market 

owners said it has been a smooth transition. Open 

Thursday & Saturday all year around, and Tuesdays 

during summer months too (Until August 28, 2018). 

stjacobs.com 

In honour of the 35th anniversary of Stratford 

Chefs School, work is currently underway on Farm 

to Table, a cookbook that pairs 25 Stratford Chefs 

School alumni chefs with their favourite food 

producers and farmers for a culinary adventure 

through Perth and Huron Counties. This stunning 

book will not only feature recipes from some of 

the region’ s most celebrated graduates of the 

Stratford Chefs School, but also includes fascinating 

interviews with the chefs conducted by CBC food 

columnist Andrew Coppolino and striking imagery 

provided by photographer and SCS alumna Terry 

Manzo. The book will be launched at the School’s 

Season Opener in late October. 

The Stratford Chefs School’s 2018 Long Table 

Dinner is just around the corner, so don’t miss 

your opportunity to join a fun and eclectic group 

of people for an exceptional outdoor dining 

experience set in the heart of Stratford’s heritage 

district. Guests gather around one long beautifully 

appointed table to enjoy a four-course dinner of 

incredible local food complemented by VQA wines. 

Participate in the unexpected. Sunday, September 

9, 2018, Stratford Market Square, $125 per person 

($50 tax receipt) stratfordchef.com 

Plan to attend the 12th Annual Stratford Kiwanis 

Garlic Festival on September 8 and 9 at the 

Community Hall in The Stratford Rotary Complex. 

Raising funds for local community projects and 

supporting local garlic growers, The Kiwanis Club 

of Stratford once again will deliver a fun family 

weekend, complete with an Ontario Garlic & Artisan 

Market, cooking demonstrations by professional 

chefs, educational forums, live entertainment, 

artisanal cheeses and exclusive wine/spirits/beer 

pairings and tastings. stratfordgarlicfestival.com 

The Appetite for Words Festival program is 

a partnership between the Stratford Writers 

Festival and the Stratford Chefs School and 

features authors who have written about food, and 

fiction writers who allow food to become a strong 

component of scenes and/or the characters in 

their novels. The best part is, chefs and students 

from Stratford Chefs School develop and prepare 

inspired menus, matching an author’s readings with 

appropriate food at literary dinners and lunches, 

so you can taste the words you’re hearing. Appetite 

for Words revolves around storytelling and is



created for the enthusiastic and curious — anyone 

interested in reading, discussing and consuming 

food (that’s you, right?). Participate in educational 

workshops and tasting sessions with some of 

Canada’s best food writing talent and build skills 

and increase your knowledge of both the culinary 

and literary arts. From a literary picnic-style farm 

lunch to a food photography workshop, whet your 

appetite for literature. stratfordwritersfestival. 

com/literary-events/appetite-for-words-festival 

Savour Stratford Chocolate Trail — If you’re a 

choco-holic this is the trail for you! What could be 

better than spending an afternoon (or two) strolling 

the Victorian streets of Stratford and sampling 

chocolate? The self-guided Chocolate Trail is 

offered year-round and can be used at six of the 27 

stops. Tickets are just $30 (+HST) and valid for 1 

week from the date of purchase. visitstratford.ca/ 

chocolatetrail 

Savour Stratford Bacon and Ale Trail — Bacon and 

Ale — two of life’s greatest creations! This selfguided 

walking trail includes vouchers that you 

can use at 5 stops. Each voucher will entitle you to 

a “tasting” of a unique bacon and ale inspired treat 

and the chance to speak to Stratford and area’s 

culinary stars while visiting unique restaurants and 

retail locations. This trail is offered year-round and 

is valid for 1 week from the date of purchase ($30 

+HST). visitstratford.ca/bacontrail 

Honey Meets Blueberries Meets Cheese — Enjoy 

free samples and learn at three great locations, 

Saturday, August 11. Oxford Honey offers honey 

sampling and bee-keeping demonstrations 

(9am-4pm). Berrylicious Fruit Farm offers 

blueberry sampling, and you can pick your own 

and learn about berry benefits (Tours 10am & 2pm). 

Gunn's Hill Artisan Cheese is sampling Brie with 

honey and blueberries, with face painting and live 

music. (Tours 11am & 3pm) Sponsored by Oxford 

Fresh. tourismoxford.ca 

We want your BUZZ! 

Do you have culinary news or upcoming events 

that you’d like us to share? 

Every issue, Eatdrink reaches more than 

50,000 readers throughout Waterloo Region & 

Wellington County in print, 

and thousands more online. 

Get in touch with us at editor@eatdrink.ca and/or 

connect directly with our Social Media Editor 

Bryan Lavery at bryan@eatdrink.ca 

Submission deadline for the next issue is Sept. 5. 

something 

for 

EVERYONE 

Cambridge Farmers’ 

Market 

Saturday Year Round 

7:00am - 1:00pm 

Wednesday Seasonal Market 

8:00am - 1:00pm 

June 6 - October 3 

www.cambridgefarmersmarket.ca 

Lunch 

Dinner 

Catering 

DINNER 

226.476.4418 

295 Lancaster St. W. 

Kitchener 

swineandvine.ca


Spotlight 

A Taste of Place 

Taste Detours in Guelph 


Taste Detours highlights Guelph’s 

history by mapping it from one 

culinary experience to the next, 

offering an authentic “taste of place.” 

Lynn Broughton, founder of Taste Detours 

(tastedetours.ca, 1-866-736-6343), spent 

eight years with Downtown 

Guelph Business Association, 

marketing shops, restaurants 

and great events in Guelph’s 

downtown core. Taste Detours 

evolved from her passion 

for the downtown, and a 

love of culinary events and 

tourism. As a certified Food 

Tour Professional, she is a 

passionate and knowledgeable 

guide with the expertise 

and savvy to provide a firstrate 

experience. Guelph has 

stunning architecture, a 

strong cultural fabric and a 

rich historical background. 

Taste Detours literally tells the city's stories 

through food and drink experiences. 

On a sunny Friday in July, we spent a day 

with Lynn. She arrived with iced lattes from 

The Common and perfect mini sausage rolls 

from Eric the Baker (who comes from a long 

line of Basque pastry chefs). We gathered in 

front of the John Galt statue at the historic 

Market House and received an interesting 

tutorial on John Galt and the historic core of 

Guelph. From there, we walked along Carden 

Street to the charming Atmosphere Café with 

its chill vibe and charming patio. We met 

hospitable co-owner Nicole Hogg, who has 

operated the café for 14 years, and sampled a 

delicious bite and craft beer. 

Next, we walked to the steps of the Basilica 

of Our Lady Immaculate, which tour-goers 

can enter. The monumental church contains 

decorative carvings and stained glass executed 

by skilled craftsmen. We received a briefing on 


Court Desautels & Rebecca Gordon 

from Miijidaa Café & Bistro, 

with Lynn Broughton 

from Taste Detours. 

the historical significance of the nearby Albion 

Hotel and that part of the tour ended with 

a lengthy discussion about the interesting 

history of Sleeman’s Brewery. 

Our tour continued on to Cork Street and 

into Guelph Caribbean Cuisine for a chat 

with co-owner Lorenza. We 

enjoyed a delectable double 

(two pieces of fried dough) 

with a sautéed savoury 

chickpea and spice mixture 

in the centre — the ultimate 

Trinidadian street food. 

At our next stop, Miijidaa 

Café & Bistro (from the 

Ojibway language meaning 

“let’s eat” or “bon appetit”), 

we met Beverage Manager 

Rebecca Gordon and Court 

Desautels, Group Leader & 

CEO of the Neighbourhood 

Group of Companies, who 

explained their strong 

emphasis on Canadian-inspired offerings with 

local ingredients. We sampled Welsh Griddle 

cakes with wild blueberry preserve and housechurned 

butter, as well as piri piri marinated 

cauliflower with yogurt blue cheese dip. 

We stopped in next door at Refresh Juice 

for an invigorating carrot, arugula, lemon and 

ginger cold-pressed juice known as the Eye 

Opener. The tour wound down at Wellington 

Cakes on charming Douglas Street, where we 

savoured a decadent sweet meringue-based 

macaron. Owner Anne Forestell is connected 

to the early city’s history. Her great-great-greatgreat 

grandfather Felix Hanlon was one of the 

so-called “27 boys” who accompanied John Galt 

to Guelph and helped clear the land that became 

the city centre. I felt we'd come full circle. 

BRYAN LAVERY is Eatdrink Food Editor and Writer at 

Large.



Sandwich Brewing Co. | Windsor 

History pours out of this place, 

on the Barrels Bottles & Brews Trail. 

Uncover behind-the-scenes development and production 

of dozens of area distilleries and breweries. Tap rooms and 

tasting lounges welcome you with open bottles. 

Get your BBB Passport and info at: barrelsbottlesbrews.ca 

#BARRELTRAIL | #BREWERYQG | visitwindsoressex.com


Spirits 

Taking it Slow 

Willibald Farm Distillery in Ayr 


By ANDREW COPPOLINO | Photos by BROGAN McNABB 

The folks at Willibald Farm Distillery 

might say that time hasn’t been on 

their side — and that’s all right with 

them. At the distillery located near 

Ayr, about 30 minutes south of Kitchener, 

they’re in the habit of just taking things slow. 

Even after the investment in start-up costs, 

they weren’t in a rush to get to market. Their 

success is a marker of the painstaking nature 

of the planning and distilling process they 

developed. 

“We probably went through close to 100 

variations of recipes before we decided which 

one to use. We were confident then that we 

had something people would really like,” says 

co-owner Jordan van der Heyden. 

The 29-year-old and his business partners 

and co-founders — brother Nolan, 25, and 

long-time friend Cam Formica, also 29 — have 

set themselves up on 

100 acres of the van 

der Heyden family 

farm, formerly a 

livestock operation. 

The partners, who 

grew up together in 

Ayr, wanted to test 

their entrepreneurial 

mettle and “find 

something different 

that we could use the 

land for,” according 

to Jordan. Their own 

time-dependent 

version of gin was 

the immediate 

answer. They grow 

grains, lavender, and other crops, and keep 

honey bees. “With everything we grow, we 

make spirits,” he says. 

Nolan and Jordan both went to University 

of Waterloo. Formica attended Lakehead. 

That brought business, engineering and 

environmental science to the Willibald 

management table, along with some distilling 

education in the U.S. Distilling is Nolan’s 

responsibility, and he is broadening his 

understanding of the art and science of the 

process with schooling in Scotland. As for the 

name, it’s an inside family joke that everyone 

is now happy to share: Willibald is Jordan’s 

and Nolan’s grandfather’s middle name. “We 

were looking for something unique. He’s never 

been too fond of it, but he’s warmed up to it 

as a business name and wears a shirt with the 

brand,” says Jordan. 

It was 2012 when the trio was searching for 

a way to use the farm, recognizing that there 

were a lot of breweries out there. “We realized 

Willibald Farm Distillery partners, from the left, Nolan 

Van der Hayden, Jordan Van der Hayden & Cam Formica.



distilling was still in its infancy at that point. 

Only Dillon’s in Niagara and Still Waters in 

Toronto were in business at the time.” Today 

there are about 20 distilleries up and running. 

The Willibald facility is an old barn, 

refurbished but maintaining its post-andbeam 

character. There’s a retail store, and they 

give tours and offer complementary tastings. 

Until very recently, distilleries could not offer 

glasses of spirits in the way that breweries 

and wineries were able to. “We just got that 

privilege a few months ago and are serving 

cocktails at the farm. That’s been a great thing 

for us,” says Jordan. They’ve added a woodfired 

oven and have started serving food. 

Gin itself has a storied history. A grain 

distillate, it is initially distilled to a desired 

alcohol content and then distilled again along 

with an infusion of juniper berries and a range 

of herbs and botanicals. Water is added to 

establish the correct alcohol concentration — 

usually 80 to 95 proof — with the hope that 

the spirit will be aromatic and fairly light. At 

Willibald they have gotten that down pat, if 

their success is any indication. They started 

with the trial-and-error of home distilling 

and learned the theory side in the U.S. Those 

were the easy steps. “It took us a few years 

to get the necessary permits and zoning 

amendments,” says Jordan. The farm is zoned 

for agriculture, but distilling is considered 

an industrial process. “The authorities were 

extremely supportive, but because it was a 

new concept it took a long time.” 

Imagine a drink made from corn, rye and 

malted barley. Gin, by law, has to include 

juniper as a flavour component. “We also add 

caraway seed, grapefruit peel, cardamom, 

coriander and angelica root. Those ingredients 

flavour the gin, and from there we barrel it, 

and that’s where the colour comes from,” says 

Jordan. The blending process only takes about 

10 days. Then comes the barrel aging — a 

time commitment of many months. After 

aging the contents of the barrels are blended 

and then bottled for shipping. The copper pot 

still capacity is 1,000 liters. Willibald distills 

anywhere from three to five 50-gallon barrels 

of whisky or gin a week. The gin, which is 

constantly being distilled, is available at LCBO 

year-round. “Our first seasonal release will be 

later this summer. That will be in the realm of 

1,500 to 2,000 bottles.” 

The current revival of the cocktail menu at 

bars and restaurants, and the bespoke, crafted 

impetus it carries, has meant that mixologists 

are constantly scanning product lines for the 

new and unique. Willibald fits the bill. At the 

time of this writing Willibald gin was the only 

barrel-aged gin available at the LCBO. “Gin is 

typically an unaged spirit. It’s clear and never 

been in oak, traditionally. But our gin looks 

a lot like whisky with its dark amber colour, 

and that’s because it spends anywhere from 

four to ten months in oak casks.” The results 

are what he calls a “whisky character” that 

bartenders are interested in because they 

can’t get it elsewhere. “It makes a phenomenal 

whisky sour,” he adds. 

Like new lines of crafted tequila, a barrelaged 

gin like Willibald lends itself to being 

sipped neat. For consumers who have never 

thought of drinking gin straight that’s 

something of a perceived obstacle that the 

company is trying to change. “Barrel aging 

really mellows out the spirit and cleans it up a


bit, making it suitable 

if you do want to drink 

it neat or on the rocks. 

It’s quite smooth. 

There has been a 

remarkable appetite 

for good quality gin in 

an older demographic 

of customer we are 

seeing, say from the 

1950s and 1960s era.” 

Identifying the exact 

nature of “local” is a bit of a mug’s game: it 

can mean different things to different people. 

But the concept does play a part in Willibald’s 

marketing strategy. “What we find is that a 

lot of the restaurants that are focussed on 

quality cocktails don’t necessarily put as much 

emphasis on local. They’re more concerned 

with the quality of the product,” Jordan says. 

That makes sense, of course — and that’s 

the way it should be — but he adds that this 

region has been supportive of this new entry 

into the marketplace, for being both local and 

of high quality. “In Waterloo Region, we’ve 

been able to play up the local angle, but of 

course it isn’t the issue when selling outside 

the region, in Toronto for instance.” He cites 

examples of where Willibald is being served in 

the region, including Red House, The Belmont 

Bistro and Grand Trunk Saloon, to name only 

a few. “We do really well at the Cambridge 

Mill,” he adds. “They’re extremely proud of 

listing where they get their ingredients.” 

Willibald currently doesn’t have the 

competition that breweries and wineries do. 

Even at the LCBO, the product is unique, and 

that’s been good. They target establishments 

with specialty cocktail menus rather than 

venues that focus on volume. Yet even some 

better bars and restaurants may not yet have 

what Jordan calls “the craft-spirit mentality” 

like they have for craft beer. “Once they’ve 

tried it, it’s a good sell for us,” he says. 


There’s more Willibald to look forward to. 

Gin accounts for only about one-third of their 

production. Whisky makes up the majority. 

However, that spirit, by virtue of Canadian 

law, must be aged a minimum of three years. 

“We haven’t been able to release any yet. We’ve 

been in production for a little over two years 

now, so in the next year or two we’ll have some 

whisky,” Jordan says. There are plans for spiced 

whisky with apple. “We’re also doing some 

work with the lavender we grow and we have 

honey bees at the 

farm.” That means 

Willibald, unique with 

its inventive gin, is 

continuing along the 

creative path they’ve 

forged for themselves, 

but they’re not 

rushing things. “We 

are playing around 

with quite a few 

things,” says Jordan. 

“We have the type of still that allows us to do 

anything with spirits, from gins and whiskies 

to fruit brandies. Those are the products we’re 

interested in pursuing. But because it’s aged, 

it takes time.” 


1271 Reidsville Road, Ayr 

226-556-9941 

drinkwillibald.com 

ANDREW COPPOLINO is a Kitchener-based writer 

and broadcaster. He is publisher of Waterloo Region Eats 

(waterlooregioneats.com) a longstanding online resource 

dedicated to food, dining, restaurants, chefs, sustainability 

and agriculture. Andrew also serves as a regional 

Eatdrink Editorial Consultant. 

BROGAN McNABB is a Toronto-based fashion and 

lifestyle photographer. broganmcnab.com


Beer 

Twelve Temptations 

Local Craft Beers for Summer 


by GEORGE MACKE 

One deck, one dock, one cottage, 

plenty of beer. Does anything say 

summer like a selection of fresh 

local craft beers? 

While many equate craft beer with bitter IPAs 

or thick and heavy stouts, it’s not necessarily 

so. Increasingly, Southwestern Ontario’s 

impressive craft breweries are producing small 

Orange Creamsic Ale — Railway 

City Brewery, St. Thomas. Available until 

August, Orange Creamsic 

takes inspiration for its name 

and its taste from the classic 

orange and vanilla ice cream 

bar. Creamy with a vanilla 

flavour, it’s light enough in 

alcohol (4.8 per cent) to be 

sessionable. It also makes a 

great dessert beer. 

batch easy-to-drink lagers, malty golden ales, 

and wheat beer seasonals with unexpected 

flavours guaranteed to quench thirsts on hot 

summer days. Here are some great choices — 

all widely available at the brewery itself and 

at the LCBO, select grocery stores, or The Beer 

Store — to fill your cooler and impress guests. 

Flashback Rhubarb Wheat Beer — 

Forked River Brewing, London. Brewed 

every spring for the past four 

years, Flashback has been 

known as Mojo until now. 

Forked River has swapped 

names for the beer, and the 

lava lamp label artwork has 

given way to an hourglass, 

but you’ll spot the 473 mL 

cans quickly thanks to their


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ANDERSON CRAFT ALES or EVENTBRITE.COM 

1030 ELIAS STREET, LONDON • 548-888-ALES 

Road Trip! 

Come to the Cowbell Farm in Blyth, Ontario 

“THE NO.1 CRAFT BREWERY IN CANADA TO VISIT.” 

—WAYNE NEWTON, FOOD & DRINK JOURNALIST 

40035 BLYTH ROAD, BLYTH, ON N0M 1H0 

1-844-523-4724 WWW.COWBELLBREWING.COM 

familiar and distinctive yellow colour. The 

rhubarb content gives a punch of tartness, 

but not so much as to ruin the wheat beer 

quaffability. Try pairing it with a bowl of 

summer fruit. 

El Buscador Cerveza 

— Descendants Brewery, 

Kitchener. What says heat 

relief better than a Mexicanstyle 

lager? As a deviation from 

the macro-brewed Corona, El 

Buscador Cerveza is a suitable 

choice. It’s only 4 per cent 

alcohol, making it sessionable 

even if the Day of the Deadinspired 

artwork hints at 

something more potent. 

1857 Kolsch — Abe Erb Brewery, 

Waterloo. This style of 

beer originated in Cologne, 

German, and is between a 

lager and ale. It’s alternatively 

known as a cream ale, 

particularly in the U.S. Abe 

Erb’s kolsch hits the mark as 

a versatile and solid choice to 

pair with thick hamburgers 

or ribs. Many will prefer it as 

a beverage with a meal rather 

than a sessionable beer round 

the campfire. It’s 4.8 per cent 

alcohol. 

Cream Ale — Anderson 

Craft Ales, London. If there’s a craft 

beer for cottage guests who think they 

don’t like craft beer, 

this is it. One of three 

breweries in London’s 

intriguing Old East 

Village, Anderson brews 

a number of delightful 

year-round beers, oneoffs, 

and seasonals. But 

it’s Anderson Cream Ale, 

sold in six-packs of 355 

mL cans, which serves as 

the gateway. Medium in 

body, malty in taste, it’s 

a stellar cream ale which 

has quickly found a loyal fan base. 

Backpaddle Blonde — Upper Thames 

Brewing, Woodstock. What’s summer 

without a blonde in the crowd? Upper 

Thames’ Backpaddle Blonde is the two-year-


old brewery’s best selling 

beer, and for good reason. 

It has broad appeal among 

all beer drinkers. It’s malty 

with a hint of citrus flavour 

derived from Cascade hops 

grown by the Tavistock Hop 

Company. Blondes — or 

golden ales — are close in 

flavour to the popular macro 

brews. Freshness is the key 

to enjoying a craft blonde. 

Backpaddle is in a limited 

number of local Beer 

Stores. 

Helles Lager — 

Wellington Brewery, 

Guelph. Available at the 

Beer Store in 355 mL cans, 

Helles is Wellington’s take 

on a traditional German 

light lager. It’s a brave 

attempt to sway fans of 

big multinational brands. 

For the patriots, it uses 

BLACK SWAN 

BREWING COMPANY 

STRATFORD • ONTARIO 

It's what we drink. 

144 DOWNIE ST, STRATFORD 

BLACKSWANBREWING.CA 519 • 814 • 7926 @BLACKSWANBREWINGCO

36 |August/September 2018 eatdrink.ca |@eatdrinkmag 

all-Canadian barley and wheat malt. As a 

4.5 per cent lager, it works in pretty much 

all situations, from campfire gatherings to 

grilled food. 

Suburban Menace — Refined Fool 

Brewing, Sarnia. This intriguing beer moves 

people along the 

craft beer tasting 

chart. It’s a little 

stronger in alcohol 

(5.7 per cent) and 

a little more bitter 

without treading into 

IPA territory. Red 

in colour, Suburban 

Menace comes in 

shareable 650 mL bottles, ideal for pouring 

summer tasters for the unconverted. Its 

complex tastes — can you pick up the caramel, 

blueberry, and bubblegum? — make it a great 

conversation starter. 

Wild Child — Black Swan 

Brewing Company. Wild 

Child is a sour ale, in the 

Berliner Weisse style. Light 

and very bubbly, it’s tart 

without being puckering 

and could serve as a great 

gateway beer for wine 

drinkers or those turned off 

by the traditional bitterness 

in many beer styles. 

Variations are available at 

times, with additions such as 

seasonal fruit. Wild Chid is an excellent thirst 

quencher as a stand alone on a hot summer 

day or would pair wonderfully with a pan-fried 

fish or salad. Available in 1-litre and 2-litre 

growlers at the brewery. 

And finally, three variations on a theme in one 

convenient six-pack. 

Summer Radler Pack — Waterloo 

Brewing, Kitchener. Waterloo Brewing 

packages its 

three summer 

seasonal 

radlers in a 

six-pack box. 

A radler is a 

mix of lager 

and fruit 

juice, with the 

result being 

more refreshing 

flavour and less alcohol. Waterloo’s pack 

includes grapefruit, citrus, and raspberry 

versions, each at 3.1 per cent alcohol. 

Waterloo’s radlers pair with light summer 

fare off the grill — grapefruit with shrimp, 

raspberry with whitefish and tossed salad, 

citrus with steak. Waterloo Citrus Radler 

has appeal as a reward after an afternoon of 

summer yard work. 

GEORGE MACKE is a Southwestern Ontario craft 

beer explorer who spends too much time at the LCBO. 

Discover Heather's Incomparable Journeys 

Impeccable Italy — October 10–27, 2018 

Featuring Lake Como, Tuscany, Amalfi Coast and Rome 

The Slow Roads of Ireland — Sept. 5–24 , 2018 

Explore Donegal, Connemara, Cork & Kerry and Dublin 

Small group bespoke tours enjoying a 

relaxed itinerary with inclusive pricing, 

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For any and all of your travel needs 

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Travel 

Industry Council of Ontario



Wine 

Finding “Somewhereness” 

Terroir In a Glass of Wine 

If you have been to a wine tasting, the 

discussion at some point has probably 

lead to terroir. This is a French term 

that basically means “a sense of place.” 

When used in relation to wine, terroir is a 

combination of factors, such as the soil and 

the climate of the area where the grapes are 

grown, which impart unique characteristics 

that can be tasted in the wine. 

Ontario is a cool climate wine region. The 

wines made here are often more aromatic, 

lighter in body, and 

higher in acidity 

than their warm 

climate equivalents. 

The soil in each 

of Ontario’s three 

major wine growing 

regions is complex. 

Glacial clay, silt, 

and limestone 

contribute to the 

terroir of Ontario 

wines. Sometimes 

just small variances 

in the wine’s acidity, 

alcohol level or 

minerality have a 

big influence on the 

taste and quality. 

Recently a group 

of 12 Ontario winemakers 

gathered 

at Stratford Chefs 

School for an event 

called Somewhereness. 

In the group’s 

promotional material 

“somewhereness” 

is explained as a 

term used “to describe the blend of terroir, 

climate, vine and vintner that let a wine stand 

apart.… It speaks of small plots, sustainable 

practices, responsible stewardship and the way 

by GARY KILLOPS 

our approach to winemaking contributes to 

the elusive characteristics that flow through to 

your soul with every sip of our wine.” 

The tasting at the Chefs School offered 

one-on-one conversations with the 

Somewhereness producers. 

Shiraz Mottiar, winemaker at Malivoire 

Wine in Niagara, was pouring several wines. He 

offered specifics on the Malivoire 2015 Small 

Lot Pinot Noir ($29.95 retail from the winery). 

The grapes were sourced from two vineyards 

in the Beamsville 

Bench. The Moira 

vineyard has vines 

that are over twenty 

years old, and 

they contribute 

to the fresh fruit 

acidity. The Mottiar 

vineyard, Shiraz’s 

own vineyard, is at 

a higher elevation 

and imparts 

both acidity and 

minerality. The 

Malivoire Small Lot 

Pinot Noir offers 

fresh, vibrant red 

berry fruits, clove 

and earthy spices, 

and mushroom and 

mineral nuances. 

Lively, fresh with a 

smooth finish. Wellpriced 

for a quality 

wine like this. 

Malivoire’s 

2016 Small Lot 

Chardonnay ($19.95 

retail from the 

winery) was made from Moira vineyard grapes. 

The wine was allowed to go through partial 

malolactic fermentation and then aged 50% 

in stainless steel, with the remainder aged in 

The Somewhereness brand ambassadors included: 

(clockwise from top left) Shiraz Mottiar from Malivoire; Ilya 

Rubin from 13th Street Winery; Harald Thiel from Hidden Bench 

Estate Winery; and Suzanne Janke from Stratus Vineyards.



The wineries each presented a line-up of products: 

(from the left) Cave Spring, Malivoire, and Hidden Bench. 

French barrels, for nine months. The buttery 

notes and the hint of vanilla oak balance the 

green apple and the lemon citrus notes. 

Harald Thiel, owner of Hidden Bench Estate 

Winery, was pouring six terroir-driven wines 

at the event. “Our wines are unfiltered, which 

I believe adds to their ageability” he said. “We 

are trying to make wines that are not only 

good Ontario wines but also are wines that 

can take their place on the world stage.” The 

2015 Estate Chardonnay ($29.95 retail from 

the winery) showcases the Beamsville Bench 

terroir. The grapes in this wine are sourced 

from the Locust Lane, Felseck and Rosomel 

vineyards. Locust Lane and Felseck have a 

west/east slope as well as a south/north slope, 

providing excellent air, drainage and solar 

exposure. A strikingly complex chardonnay 

with lemon citrus, pear, melon and white 

flowers, driven by a mineral backbone one 

might expect from old world burgundies. 

“Somewhereness” is also about sustainable 

practices and responsible stewardship 

of the land that is dedicated to growing 

grapes. These winemakers also identify as 

caretakers of the earth where their vines 

grow. Nowhere is this more evident than at 

Stratus Vineyards. Located in Niagara-on-the- 

Lake, the winery was the first to earn LEED 

Canada Certification by producing wines in an 

environmentally-responsible manner. 

“The wine we grow is dependent on the 

health of the land on which it is grown,” 

reads the Stratus Environmental Mission 

Statement. “We farm our vineyard and guide 

our winemaking as though our children’s 

future depends on it.” 

At the event, Stratus poured the 2014 Stratus 

Red ($48 available at the winery only), a fine 

example of terroir, as it presents a different 

taste profile than the 2013 vintage currently 

available at the LCBO ($38.75, vintages 

#131037). A ripe, full bodied blend of cabernet 

franc, cabernet sauvignon, merlot and syrah. 

Juicy red berry fruits, grippy tannins and 

complex secondary oak flavours having spent 

584 days in 34% new French oak barrels. 

Terroir reflects a vineyard’s location and 

captures a sense of place, soil, climate, and 

seasons. It impacts vintage variations and the 

winemaker’s production decisions. Events 

like showcase the unique terroir of Ontario 

vineyards, and confirm that our wines have 

evolved to be comparable with other wellknown 

world-class wines. 

GARY KILLOPS is a CAPS Certified Sommelier who 

loves to talk, taste, and write about wine. He shares his 

tasting notes on EssexWineReview.com 

Share Our Passion 

Available 

at 

at the 

Fine LCBO Restaurants 

& The Winery 

Colchester Ridge Estate Winery 

A Family-Run Craft Winery 

Award-Winning VQA Wines 

Friendly Tasting Boutique 

Picnic Tables 

Artisanal Ontario Cheeses 

Special Events 

@crewinery • 108 Essex County Road 50 • Harrow ON • 519-738-9800

Eatdrink: The Local Food & Drink Magazine



Books 

Rustle Up Some Grubs 

Edible: An Adventure into the World of Eating Insects 

and 

Eat the Beetles! 

When it comes to using insects 

as food, a cry of “bring on the 

delicacies” comes from certain 

cultures, whereas 

others need to be near-to-death 

starving before considering bugs 

for dinner. Two books, Edible: An 

Adventure into the World of Eating 

Insects and The Last Great Hope 

to Save the Planet (Houghton 

Mifflin, 2014) by Daniella 

Martin and Eat the Beetles! An 

Exploration into our Conflicted 

Relationship with Insects (ECW 

Press, 2017) by David Waltner- 

Toews, have taken steps 

beyond these polarizing camps 

by arguing that entomophagy 

(the eating of insects) has a 

lot going for it: a plentiful 

wild supply, few resources required to farm 

them, no butchering involved, and high 

nutritional value. 

Martin got interested in entomophagy as 

an anthropology student in Mexico. 

She extended her globetrotting to 

get experiences with cultures 

more accepting of such a practice. 

In Edible, she promotes 

her theory that “insects are 

the great untapped resource, 

the final frontier of natural 

food” by going to underground 

bug-eating parties in 

Tokyo, and to Noma (touted as 

the world’s best restaurant) in 

Copenhagen, where bugs are incorporated 

into the haute cuisine menu. 

Her philosophy of “farm pest to table” 

utilizes the natural world to counteract some 

Review by DARIN COOK 

Daniella Martin 

harmful impacts of traditional farming. One 

theory is that fields attract insects that can 

simultaneously be harvested while picking the 

crops. A yield of two different food sources 

can be extracted from the same plot 

of land, instead of disposing 

of one with pesticides 

that harm the other at the 

same time. These are the 

types of compelling ecological, 

economical, and practical 

reasons Martin has for eating 

insects, but she also knows 

how tasty they can be. 

The first bugs she tried 

were toasted grasshoppers 

in Mexico. While not overly 

enjoyable, she saw the appeal 

of their resemblance to burnt 

potato chips. Many bugs are 

compared to peanuts, almonds, 

and pistachios, with an overall consensus of 

having a nutty flavour profile. Martin likens 

queen ants to beef jerky popcorn kernels, 

and fried bamboo worms to extra 

crispy French fries. The first time 

she experimented at home, 

after mail-ordering wax moth 

larvae, Martin says they 

smelled liked mushrooms 

while cooking, and tasted 

like earthy, savoury raisins. 

Early in her research 

Martin confesses to being 

“on high alert for digestive 

disturbances” especially since 

insects are nearly always eaten 

whole, including outer shells not 

easily digested by humans. Even with 

the smorgasbord of insects she has sampled,



including tougher-to-swallow critters like 

scorpions and whole tarantulas (the former 

she compares to crab and the latter to chewy 

Korean barbeque), she admits that insects 

have never caused any gastrointestinal 

problems. But she knows there is 

a stigma to overcome, so Martin 

digs deep with nutritional and 

ecological arguments to make her 

case for insect eating. She also 

includes an appendix of insects 

that are safe to consume, and a 

compendium of some tried-andtrue 

recipes (Wax Moth Tacos 

or Cricket Kale Salad, anyone?). 

It may not be easy for North 

Americans to whole-heartedly 

swallow the idea, but even 

insinuating insects into one’s 

diet in small doses could lead 

to major change. 

Three years later Waltner- 

Toews, a veterinarian from 

Kitchener, has expanded on this topic in 

Eat the Beetles! and I was curious to see if 

entomophagy has become more acceptable. 

Have insects been popping up on more restaurant 

menus? Have they graduated 

from exotic to mainstream? Have 

insect farms started replacing 

cattle farms? Has a reliance 

on insects as food helped 

the world or has the trend 

stayed too small to have an 

impact? Are the squeamish 

still too squeamish? 

While the writing style 

of Martin had more of a 

pop culture vibe, that of 

Waltner-Toews is more scientific, 

albeit very readable and enjoyable, 

especially with his whimsical 

reference to the (human) Beatles, not only 

in the title, but in chapters alluding to Fab 

Four songs — Cricket to Ride; Can’t Buy Me 

Bugs; I Am the Cockroach. Each punninglytitled 

chapter deals with questions that have 

cropped up since “global beetle-mania.” His 

research takes him to fine dining in Paris (for 

the best insect preparations), wasp hunting 

in Japan, and cricket farming in Cambodia. 

One thing that the three years between 

these books has provided is more time for 

scientific research, to see if entomophagy 

has teeth to support global food security or 

will lead to newer ecological disasters. There 

David Waltner-Toews 

is a deep symbiotic relationship between 

insects and the natural world and taking away 

too many insects from the wild could have 

unintentional consequences. This concern 

leads Waltner-Toews to examine the viable 

options currently underway in insect farming. 

Although optimistic about bugs 

showing up in markets and 

on menus, Waltner-Toews’ 

tone is more cautious, 

compared to Martin’s 

enthusiasm to convert all of 

us to insect eaters. He has 

good experiences sampling 

bug dishes: palm weevil 

larvae taste like dried figs to 

him and seasoned crickets 

are a legitimate substitute for 

greasy bar snacks. Given the 

overarching comparisons to 

snack foods, bugs may not have 

leapt to the plate to replace meat 

entrées yet; their main success 

comes as protein replacements in 

tacos surrounded by the other accoutrements 

to make a Mexican-style meal. For the newly 

initiated, some of the least offensive offerings 

are insect eggs as seasoning on upscale 

dishes (similar to the use of caviar) 

or an amalgam of bugs mixed 

with vegetables in stir-fries or 

salads. Some companies are 

successfully using ground-up 

cricket flour as protein 

powder in energy bars to 

mask any resemblance to sixlegged 

creatures. 

For many cultures, 

entomol ogy and gastronomy 

have already collided in ancient 

methods of sustenance or as more 

recent trends to embellish menus. 

Leaving taboos at the door while reading 

these books may lead to some new tasty 

snacks, while jumping into a movement 

that can alleviate global problems. Even if 

overcoming cultural aversions seems difficult, 

remember that bugs are already engrained 

in many indigenous cuisines, and the advice 

of Waltner-Toews is: “If you are a guest in 

another country, and they offer you bugs to 

eat, it is rude to decline the offer.” 

DARIN COOK is a regular Eatdrink contributor who 

lives and works in Chatham-Kent.



Recipes 

Firehouse Chef 

Recipes from Canada’s Firefighters 

By Patrick Mathieu 

Review and Recipe Selections by TRACY TURLIN 

Patrick Mathieu is a Quebec native who 

was influenced by his grandmother 

to learn to cook at the age of 16. 

A few years later he was inspired 

by his grandfather and uncles to become a 

firefighter. Sixteen years on, Mathieu now 

works for the Waterloo Fire Department. 

He and his wife Andrea Lauren own Station 

House Catering and Private Chef Services. 

He’s a food columnist for Firefighting in 

Canada magazine and was a contestant on 

Season 2 of Food Network Canada’s Chopped 

Canada. Somewhere in there he found time to 

write a cookbook: Firehouse Chef: Recipes from 

Canada’s Firefighters (Whitecap Books, 2016). 

According to the author, rookies are given 

the following choices in the firehouse kitchen: 

cook for a bunch of hungry firefighters, or 

clean up after them. For Mathieu the decision 

was easy. He developed his firefighting/ 

life-saving skills, balanced that out with his 

culinary skills, and found he loved them both. 

Firehouse Chef was more than the meat and 

potatoes fare I was expecting. These men and 

women seem to love their food spicy. I was also 

surprised at the number of desserts on offer. 

Mathieu gives us 90 of his own recipes, ranging 

from classic French Canadian dishes to Italian 

and Mexican favourites. He and his wife honeymooned 

in Thailand, and their love for the 

beautiful flavours of that country 

are apparent in this book. Fifty 

further recipes are contributions 

from other firehouse cooks across 

Canada, including a number from 

Southwestern Ontario. If you 

know any firefighters, you’ll definitely 

want to check this out to 

see if they have a recipe included. 

I never really get tired of fresh 

Ontario corn with a simple butter/salt/pepper 

treatment, but 

Mexican Grilled Corn 

is a decadent alternative 

and sure to 

impress at your next 

cookout. A beautiful 

balance of sweet 

corn, salty cheese 

and tangy lime, 

these are only 

made better by 

being incredibly 

messy. The perfect 

summer food 

made for sharing with a crowd. 

If you like the camping vibe without the 

wood smoke and mosquitoes, try a slightly 

more upscale version of the campfire 

classic, S’mores Sundae. It’s a great way to 

enjoy the flavours of childhood memories 

without dropping marshmallows in the fire. 

(Does anyone else like them charred on the 

outside? Tasty, but difficult to find the sweet 

spot before they go nuclear.) 

For an easy and quick weeknight dinner 

in the summer, you can’t do much better 

than Grilled Ahi Tuna with Sicilian Salsa. 

The flavourful salsa can be made ahead of 

time and the tuna can be grilled in less than 

five minutes. It makes for a very light yet 

satisfying dinner. Salad or pasta could be 

served alongside, depending on 

your appetite. 

I could cook from this book 

all summer and never run out of 

recipes I want to try. I actually 

tried to find a recipe I didn’t like 

the look of and couldn’t find 

one. (Maybe the risotto. I don’t 

get risotto. Is it rice? Is it cream? 

Is it mushy, crunchy?) What was 

Author Patrick Mathieu


I saying? Oh yes, all of Firehouse Chef’s recipes 

— including risotto — are flavourful dishes that 

work as well for a busy family as they do for busy 

firefighters. 

In addition to the wonderful food, we get 

a glimpse into the lighter side of life in a 

working firehouse. This book is as much fun to 

read as it is to cook from. 

Mexican Grilled Corn 

Serves 4 

In Ontario, we really look forward to fresh corn 

season and in the fire house a couple dozen cobs 

will regularly show up during a shift. Try this 

Mexican street-food edition to dress up your 

next cob. 


TRACY TURLIN is a freelance writer and dog groomer 

in London. Reach her at tracyturlin@gmail.com 

Recipes excerpted from Firehouse Chef: Recipes from 

Canada’s Firefighters. Published by Whitecap Books. 

Reproduced by arrangement with the Publisher. All 

rights reserved. 

Brush each ear of corn with about 1 Tbsp (5 ml) 

mayonnaise mixture and then roll in the cheese to coat. 

Sprinkle with salt, pepper and cilantro and serve with lime 

wedges for squeezing over the corn. 

4 ears fresh corn, 

husked 

½ cup (125 ml) 

mayonnaise 

½ Tbsp (7.5 ml) 

Mexican-style chili 

powder 

½ Tbsp (7.5 ml) 

smoked paprika 

1 tsp (5 ml) finely 

grated lime zest 

½ cup (125 ml) 

crumbled cotija, 

queso fresco or 

feta cheese 

Kosher salt, to taste 

Freshly ground 

pepper, to taste 

½ cup (125 ml) fresh 

cilantro, chopped 

1 lime, cut into 

wedges, for serving 

Prepare a gas or charcoal 

grill over high heat. 

Grill the corn, turning 

frequently with tongs 

until the kernels have 

softened and are charred 

in spots, 6-8 minutes. 

Remove from the grill and 

allow to cool slightly. 

In a small bowl, combine 

the mayonnaise, chili 

powder, smoked paprika 

and lime zest. Put the 

cheese on a small plate.


Grilled Ahi Tuna with Sicilian Salsa 

Serves 4-6 

Ahi Tuna could very well be my favourite 

ingredient both to cook and to eat. During my 

appearance on Season 2 of the Food Network’s 

Chopped Canada you can only imagine my giant 

sigh of relief when I saw a beautiful piece of 

tuna as one of my secret ingredients in the main 

course round! This dense, firm-fleshed fish is 

absolutely perfect for grilling and absorbs rubs 

and marinades wonderfully. Cooking it rare will 

ensure its maximum tenderness and flavour, and 

the Sicilian Salsa is a perfect briny compliment to 

this or any grilled fish. 

4 ahi tuna steaks 

(about ½ lb/225 g 

each) 

2 Tbsp (30 ml) 

grapeseed oil, for 

coating 

SPICE RUB 

1 Tbsp (15 ml) garlic 

powder 

1 Tbsp (15 ml) dried 

basil 

1 tsp (5 ml) ground 

fennel seeds 

¼ tsp (1 ml) red chili 

pepper flakes 

½ Tbsp (7.5 ml) 

kosher salt 

1 tsp (5 ml) lemon 

pepper or freshly 

ground black 

pepper 

SICILIAN SALSA 

¼ cup (60 ml) 

chopped cured 

black olives 

1 cup (250 ml) 

chopped tomatoes 

¼ cup (60 ml) 

chopped fresh basil 

3 garlic cloves, 

minced 

¼ tsp (1 ml) cayenne 

2 Tbsp (30 ml) extra 

virgin olive oil 

Juice of ½ lemon 

Kosher salt, to taste 

Prepare a grill for direct 

grilling over high heat and 

oil the grill rack. Coat the 

tuna with grapeseed oil. 


SPICE RUB 

In a small bowl mix together the garlic powder, basil, 

fennel seeds, chili flakes, salt and pepper. Sprinkle both 

sides of each tuna steak generously with the spice rub. 

SICILIAN SALSA 

To make the salsa, combine all ingredients in a bowl, taste 

and season with salt. Set aside. 

Grill the tuna directly over high heat for 1–2 minutes per 

side, until grill marked and still rare in the middle. 

Arrange the tuna steaks on individual plates and top with 

the salsa. Serve alongside your favourite pasta.


S’mores Sundae 

Serves 6 

Sundaes are a really simple way to have fun 

with dessert, and they are a regular treat in 

the firehouse. This easy and decadent twist 

on everyone’s campfire classic might surpass 

the original, with a homemade chocolate 

ganache, toasted marshmallow and lots of 

ice cream! 

12 graham crackers 

3 Tbsp (45 ml) brown sugar 

1 stick unsalted butter, melted 

Pinch of kosher salt 

40 large marshmallows 

½ lb (225 g) good-quality dark chocolate 

½ cup (125 ml) heavy cream 

2 cups (500 ml) vanilla bean ice cream 

2 cups (500 ml) chocolate chunk ice cream 


Preheat oven to 325°F (160°C) and line a baking tray with 

parchment paper. Add the graham crackers to a food 

processor and process into fine crumbs. Add the sugar, butter 

and salt and pulse until the mixture is well incorporated. 

Pour out onto baking tray and form into one large “cookie.” 

Bake until light golden brown, about 15 minutes. Let cool 

completely then break into crumbles. 

Preheat oven on broil. Lay marshmallows on a parchmentlined 

baking tray in a single layer and place under the broiler 

for just a couple of minutes until browned well all over. 

Remove and set aside. 

Finely chop the chocolate and place in bowl. Heat the heavy 

cream over medium heat until just starting to simmer. 

Pour the heavy cream over the chocolate and fold until the 

chocolate melts and it becomes a smooth ganache. 

Place 1 scoop each of vanilla and chocolate ice cream 

in a parfait glass or bowl. Layer your sundae with dark 

chocolate ganache, graham cracker crumbles and a toasted 

marshmallow or two on top.



The Lighter Side 

Give Peas a Chance 

By DARIN COOK 

It is not surprising that romantic unions 

occur over a common love of certain 

foods, as dictated by the adage that 

the way to one’s heart can be through 

the stomach. Less often will you see a couple 

bonding over a meal liked by one individual 

but not by the other. Such incompatibilities, 

though, can provide insights into how 

relationships work. It was definitely 

not my culinary skills that urged 

my wife to enter into holy 

matrimony with me, but it 

was my cooking during our 

courtship that taught us both 

some relationship lessons. 

When we were dating, the 

first meal I cooked for my future 

wife was my signature dish, one far more 

elaborate in my mind than in reality. I called 

it Chicken and Peas over Rice. By cooking for 

her in the early stages of our dating, I thought 

I was proving that I was not useless as a 

potential mate, and I was under the illusion 

that it was more romantic to surprise her 

with a homemade dish than to let her in on 

what to expect for dinner. I may have had this 

recipe down pat — open a can of soup and a 

container of sour cream for the sauce, split 

open a bag of frozen peas, boil Minute Rice, 

cut boneless chicken breasts into cubes. But it 

is stupefying that I thought it was worthy of 

serving to a girl I was trying to impress. 

A few days after I made this meal she told 

me, “I hate peas, but I like you, so I ate them, 

and now peas aren’t so bad.” Never would I 

have guessed that love could edge someone 

towards liking more vegetables. Up to that 

point she had known she liked me, but by 

eating those peas she learned just how far she 

would go for our relationship. She could have 

easily gone the other way, thinking, “I was on 

the fence about whether I liked this guy and it 

doesn’t seem worth it to eat something I don’t 

like, so it may be time to call it quits.” 

But that did not happen. The peas had not 

driven her away. However I wanted to avoid 

giving her any more reasons to stop eating 

with me. I had learned my lesson and decided 

to ask more questions about what she liked 

eating. I found out she liked Mexican and Asian 

food, and not long after we got engaged over a 

platter of Mexican-Asian nachos: a successful 

fusion dish with successful results. 

After twelve years of marriage and 

the addition of two sons to our fold, 

I still try to impress my wife with 

my cooking. Although I do a lot 

of things wrong in the kitchen, 

even when meticulously 

following a recipe, I hope that 

my attempts remind her that I 

wasn’t such a bad catch after all. 

And when I take over the kitchen I 

always ask, even if slightly uncertain after all 

these years, whether she likes persimmons, or 

bamboo shoots. 

To this day, especially when we are trying 

to get our two sons to try new foods, my wife 

says, “You know, I really hated peas until the 

first time your dad cooked dinner for me.” 

And I reply with, “Actually, your mother 

did not know how much she liked me until 

she tried peas. Only then did she realize she 

would do anything for me. And look where it 

got her: she has me and she likes peas.” 

I still make Chicken and Peas over Rice 

for our family of four. I know it may be 

unrefined, but I make it with love every time, 

because it could very well be one of those 

links in our relationship chain that made our 

love grow stronger. That first meal may not 

have been the way to my wife’s heart, but she 

learned that she can tolerate certain things 

for love. And I learned the importance of 

asking more questions. 

DARIN COOK is a regular Eatdrink contributor who 

lives and works in Chatham-Kent.



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Eatdrink Waterloo & Wellington #2 August/September 2018

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