PAINT A/W18

alfolltd

A/W18

PORTRAIT OF A

PROCESS


A VISION OF

THE FUTURE

PAUL MITCHELL HAS DRAWN ON THE FULL WEIGHT OF THE BRAND’S 20-YEAR COLOUR

HISTORY TO ENVISION THE TRENDS AND COLOURS OF TOMORROW. WANT AN INSIGHT

INTO COLOUR’S POTENTIAL IN THE NEXT 20 YEARS? LOOK NO FURTHER THAN THE

BRAND’S 20/20 COLLECTION, PUT TOGETHER BY TRUE HAIR AND COLOUR STARS


COLIN CARUSO

JOHN PAUL MITCHELL SYSTEMS ARTISTIC DIRECTOR FOR

PROFESSIONAL HAIR COLOR

With colour innovation at the heart of his work, it’s no surprise

that Colin grew up colouring his friends’ hair in his parents’

basement, before turning that passion into a life-long career.

HEATHER KAANOI

JOHN PAUL MITCHELL SYSTEMS

ARTISTIC DIRECTOR

A once-in-a-lifetime scholarship opportunity

from Angus Mitchell launched her career

more than 10 years ago. Now she’s busy

jetting across the world as a top educator.

THE FORECASTERS

HAND-SELECTED FOR THEIR INDIVIDUAL SKILL AND CREATIVITY BY PAUL MITCHELL’S ARTISTIC DIRECTOR FOR PROFESSIONAL

HAIR COLOR, COLIN CARUSO, THIS DYNAMIC COLLECTIVE OF ARTISTS WORKED TOGETHER TO DIVINE THE FUTURE

What a way to celebrate a colourful legacy! The Paul Mitchell 20/20 Collection draws on some of the brand’s key turning points and

the influence of its idol artists, including Robert Cromeans, Scott Cole and Linda Yodice. Seeking to create fresh results from classic

techniques, the team built on the foundations of those who came before them to strive toward the future.

RYAN BELMONTE

JOHN PAUL MITCHELL SYSTEMS ARTIST

A passion for fashion and music led Ryan

to a career in hairdressing nearly 11 years

ago. His time behind the chair is just one of

his creative outlets, alongside DJing and

clothing design.

IRENE TOLEDO

JOHN PAUL MITCHELL SYSTEMS ARTIST

Working and travelling alongside some of

the best artists in the world has given Irene

an extraordinary education, embracing

every opportunity to share her passion

with fellow stylists and educators.

JASON REYES

JOHN PAUL MITCHELL SYSTEMS

INTERNATIONAL TRAINER AND ARTIST

Known for his barbering and cutting,

he’s been busy developing an essential

barbering curriculum and the new MVRCK

line, launching in the UK in 2019.


JULIAN PERLINGIERO

GUEST ARTIST

An experienced salon owner, stylist and

educator, Julian is passionate about

sharing his knowledge and experience

with hairdressers around the world.

FERNIE ANDONG

JOHN PAUL MITCHELL SYSTEMS ARTIST

Perhaps best known as Fern the Barber

for his incredible skills and social media

presence, Fernie has been a real influence

in developing the new MVRCK barbering

line, launching in the UK in 2019.

CHELSEA LITCHFIELD

JOHN PAUL MITCHELL SYSTEMS

INTERNATIONAL TRAINER AND ARTIST

A love of fine art led Chelsea into the hair

industry, and it continues to influence her

artful approach to dimensional colour and

precision cutting.

NOOGIE THAI

JOHN PAUL MITCHELL SYSTEMS

EDITORIAL DIRECTOR

Noogie oversaw the styling of the cuts

to create the cohesive, cutting-edge

vibe that completes the looks.

“STYLING INSPIRATION FOR

THE 20/20 COLLECTION

CAME FROM MY DESIRE

TO BRING A TOUCH OF

CELEBRITY GLAM TO

DAILY STYLE. FROM JULIA

ROBERTS’ PERFECT VOLUME

TO

JENNIFER LAWRENCE’S

UNDONE BOB, YOU CAN

ACHIEVE AN ELEMENT OF

THAT IN EVERYDAY WEAR”

NOOGIE THAI


Colourist Ryan Belmonte

Haircutter Chelsea Litchfield

Stylist Noogie Thai

Inspired by fashion and

art, this look reinterprets a

predictable print and twists

it for an ultra-modern take

on a classic. Bordeaux and

forest green blend to create

surprisingly harmonious

shades and tones, while the

undone waves show off the

skill of the colour placements.

There’s no hiding from how

cool this looks.

HERE’S TO

THE NEXT

20 YEARS

THE 20/20 COLLECTION IS THE PERFECT BLEND OF PAST AND PRESENT, CREATIVITY AND CRAFTSMANSHIP.

IT’S A DIFFICULT BALANCE TO TREAD, BUT THE SALON-READY RESULTS SPEAK FOR THEMSELVES


Colourist Colin Caruso

Haircutter Jason Reyes

Stylist Noogie Thai

Unexpected colour stays

sophisticated, thanks to

careful balayage techniques

to infuse depth and ribbons of

light in the hair. Muted tones

keep things from veering

into anything too ‘in your

face’, while the placement

perfectly mimics the looping

luminescence of the Northern

Lights. This look is the

essence of understated yet

impactful colour.


Colourist Heather Kaanoi

Haircutter Julian Perlingiero

Stylist Noogie Thai

This blend of jewel tones is

the perfect pick to intensify

a statement-making head of

curls. The mixture of violettinged

hues is offset by icy

mint to expose the different

colour intensities and create

this amethyst diffusion.

Channel Solange Knowles for

her bold styling and shapely

curls, while remaining true to

the hair’s natural textures.


Colourist Irene Toledo

Haircutter Fernie Andong

Stylist Noogie Thai

This show-stopping flash

of golden copper, offset

against a blend of rich reds,

is like a solar flare to re-ignite

your passion for short shapes

and intense colours. Inspired

by Block Colouring, the use

of diagonal patterns gives a

seamless blend at the scalp

while Paul Mitchell’s classic

tape cutting technique keeps

things sharp.

In detail! Find video inspiration and the full collection at salon-success.co.uk


The future

is… wide open

“There’s a level of

enthusiasm for hair

colour from clients like

never before. As a kid, I

remember colouring my

hair to stand out, now

people are colouring

their hair to fit in”

Colin Caruso

The future

is… in demand

“Today, even 10-year-old

kids have pops of colour

in their hair. Imagine 20

years later, and now that

30-year-old is going to be

devoted to the salon and

will expect hair colour”

Heather Kaanoi

The future

is… personalised

“Everything around

us is becoming more

bespoke and less

cookie-cutter in style.

In the future, guests

will have more to say

in their hair colour and

be more open to doing

things differently –

more individualised”

Ryan Belmonte

WHAT IS THE

FUTURE OF

The future

is… bright

“Every day, more and

more of my guests

are stepping outside

of their comfort

zone and requesting

visually stimulating

colour. There will be a

greater understanding

and appreciation

for expressing your

personality through

your hair”

Irene Toledo

The future

is… bold

“More colours are

being accepted,

creating more styling

flexibility and business

opportunity. In the

future, I see a shift

from natural colours

to bolder colours”

Jason Reyes

COLOUR?

The future

is… expected

“Colour is going to be

expected with every

single service. In the

future, guests will

feel odd not having

colour in their hair”

Fernie Andong

FOR MORE INFORMATION ON PAUL MITCHELL PROFESSIONAL HAIR COLOR OR TO REQUEST THE FULL ANNIVERSARY BOOK

WITH DETAILED METHODS OF HOW TO RECREATE EACH OF THE LOOKS, CALL SALON SUCCESS ON 0845 659 0011

OR VISIT SALON-SUCCESS.CO.UK/PROFESSIONAL-HAIR-COLOUR


Sharing techniques, personal stories, formulas and

more, meet our Guest PAINTERS, online this season

creativeheadmag.com/paint

2018

ZOE IRWIN

TAYLOR TAYLOR

LONDON LIBERTY

WELLA

PROFESSIONALS

UK COLOUR

TREND EXPERT AND

MOST WANTED

CREATIVE TALENT 2018

ROBERT EATON

RUSSELL EATON

SALONS

WELLA

PROFESSIONALS

UK & IRELAND

TECHNICAL DIRECTOR

CLAYDE BAUMANN

D&J AMBROSE

WELLA

PROFESSIONALS

COLOUR CLUB

MEMBER

REAL COLOURISTS WITH REAL CHALLENGES AND REAL SOLUTIONS TO EVERYDAY LIFE

IN A BUSY BRITISH SALON. ONLY ON PAINT!

CREATIVEHEADMAG.COM/PAINT


Joico Laboratories Europe B.V. Grasbeemd 4 5705 DG Helmond the Netherlands Hair & Color: JOICO Artists

#LIVETHEBLONDELIFE www.joico-blondelife.com


LIVE THE

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• JOICO Blonde Life products are specifically created to make – and keep! – your clients light & bright.

• Up to five levels of even lift through 60 minutes, while protecting the health and integrity of each and

every strand without using a bleach. (refers to NEW Blonde Life Hyper High Lift Permanent Crème Color)

• Up to 9+ levels of fast-acting lift (refers to Blonde Life Lightening Powder)

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NEW


THIS IS

CONTENTS

OUR MISSION IS TO CELEBRATE COLOUR AND THE ARTISTS CREATING IT –

AND TALK FRANKLY ABOUT WHAT’S HAPPENING IN THE SALON AND ONLINE

42

08

40 14

PAINTERS

We quiz our colourist collective

THE FORECAST

The season’s hottest new trends

COLOUR BY NUMBERS

The hair colour customer landscape

MATCH GAME

How do you choose your perfect colour partner?

WHEN SOPHIA MET LARISA

Do great colourists think alike?

PAINTBOX

Make your colour kit the best it can be

EDUCATION

Get to class and boost your knowledge

EVENTS

Bask in competition glory

OPINION

Sarah Black on an Instagram dilemma

08

14

24

30

42

46

48

49

50

EDITOR Amanda Nottage ART DIRECTOR Nick Jabbal ART Graeme White DIGITAL DESIGNER Eva Vestmann CONTRIBUTORS Beth Davie,

Deborah Murtha, Alison Rowley, Anna Samson CHIEF SUB EDITOR Adam Wood ADVERTISING Laura Tucker PUBLISHER Catherine Handcock

PAINT is a supplement of Creative HEAD. All rights reserved. No part of this magazine may be reproduced without prior permission from the publisher. All information is correct at time of going to press. Printing by Buxton Press.


COLOUR IT. STYLE IT. OWN IT.

“With Rusk colour mousse you can quickly and easily

achieve an on-trend look with no commitment.

It lets you have fun by adding bold, bright statement

shades, leaving your client with a daring new look

lasting up to three washes.”

Katie Mulcahy, Rusk UK Colour Ambassador –

Most Wanted Colour Expert 2015

Stay inspired!


Ques

me

IT’S TIME TO PICK THE BRAINS OF OUR RESIDENT PAINTERS!

FOLLOW THEM ON CREATIVEHEADMAG.COM/PAINT

Q: Thanks to Instagram,

there’s a real demand for

balayage biscuit blondes

that are cool but with a

little warmth. Clients love

them, but many colourists

struggle to get the tones

and the blend just right.

What techniques do

you suggest?

A: The most important

part of creating a biscuit

blonde is to not overdo

it with too many colours

in the hair, and not to go

too light, either. Work

with the natural hair and

add lighter pieces to

create movement. A nice

idea for a good blend

is to add babylights on

the top layer. Micro-fine

weaves will help blend

the top section to look

more sunkissed. Think

about where the sun hits

the hair most at summer,

the top layer and around

the hairline, so adding

babylights there will give

you that perfect blend

and natural glow.

Amy Fish

LARRY KING SALON

08 | PAINT


Casey Coleman

CHAIR SALONS

Q: You started

#PatchTestParty on

social media. How do you

encourage current clients

and new ones who walk in

and want colour instantly

to have a patch test?

A: The #PatchTestParty

is a way for you to make

skin testing both fun

and appealing for your

clients. It’s a requirement

from colour companies

to skin test all clients, so

the initiative is basically

a template for you to be

creative with a task you’re

required to carry out. I

offered all clients 10 per

cent or £10 off of their

next colour bill if they

came into the salon and

got skin tested within

one set month, and I saw

nearly 100 people come

in just to get skin tested,

and almost a third of them

were new clients!

However, this doesn’t

mean you can’t just throw

one big party/client

evening in the salon. Send

out invitations, advertise

it on social media as well

as in your salon window

to boost numbers. Offer

free gift bags, hand out

glasses of bubbly and

make it appealing for

everyone attending! The

initiative has boosted our

sales and retail figures,

so it definitely helps business!

Walk-ins who want colour on

the spot? I only ever offer

skin tests and explain to them

why it’s so important. What’s

worth more, a new client

and their potential repeat

business, or risking safety by

colouring without precaution?

We are professionals after

all, so our opinion should

be valued more than an

urgent appointment.

PAINT | 09


Ja Gray

KARBON KYD

Shia Hiln

NOT ANOTHER SALON

Q: With 2019 around the corner, education will be on everyone’s minds.

How can a salon manager or an individual colourist ensure they’re attaining

the right skills if they’re on a tight budget?

A: I always think, first

educate the educator.

Let it start from you and

get yourself prepped and

ready. Prior preparation

shows leadership and

gains respect. When you

are on a tight budget,

most people think they

can’t educate themselves

and bring the team up to

speed! As an educator

for more than 25 years,

I’ve learned to stay ahead

by constant research

and pushing myself. Try

researching online

trend reports and

techniques. What are the

colours of the season,

and how do they translate

into your salon? Then

set a task to your team,

get them to create a

moodboard and divide

the content between

commercial and fashion.

The next step would be

to set up a workshop and

set the task of creating a

look. This would be based

on technique and colour

choice. If the majority

are cutters or stylists;

the same task can be set

around shape and styling

that would complement

every colour service.

It’s easy to educate on a

shoestring once you really

put your mind to it.

A: As much as many of

us want to invest in our

education, the low income

of our trade often makes

it difficult to make the

right choices. I honestly

believe you can always

find the money to improve

yourself and no matter

what you spend, you WILL

get it back. But when two

stylists sit next to each

other in a class, one on

£40k a year and the other

on £20k, the investment

of the £20k stylist is

double that of the other

student. Because of that,

I’ve launched Not Another

Academy’s first ‘equal

opportunity’ pricing

courses. This means we

will price according to

the student’s earnings.

Dramatic reductions

are made if you are on a

low income or minimum

wage. At night, when I’m

supposed to be falling

asleep, I think about these

things: how long it used

to take me to save up for

a course I wanted to go

on so desperately. And so

I came up with a way that

gives those that need it an

extra leg up. Education is

life-changing; we’re just

trying to help everyone

see how life-changing it

can be.

2018

2018

10 | PAINT


After

Before

Q: So many colour clients

use box colour root touchup

kits because they’re

worried about the cost

of coming into the salon

in-between their main

colour appointments. How

can we help without them

using box colours?

A: This really comes down

to a couple of factors:

Plan – map out their

future appointments

including cost. I like to

work in blocks of three, a

complete colour overhaul,

which involves a bigger

financial outlay, then

two more economical,

appointments to refresh/

retouch. This allows

clients to budget and also

the chance to review and

change the colour every

few months. It shows the

client that every time they

visit it isn’t going to break

the bank, making it more

appealing to come in. It

also gives them an option,

when money’s tight.

Tailor – try to create

a tailor-made look for

everybody. It generates

loyalty, increased revenue

and makes my day a

lot more enjoyable. To

achieve this, consultation

is so important and a

key way to manage this

problem. Don’t just find

out what the client is

going to let you do, find

out how often they can

come, how long does their

hair last for before they

need it done again and so

on. The answers to these

questions are what will

help you to help them. The

perfect colour is about

creating something that is

sustainable and works for

the client’s lifestyle.

Prescribe – give your

clients the tools they

need to make their colour

look better for longer.

Shampoo, conditioner

and the latest innovation,

temporary root touch-up

sprays. Get your clients

investing in these rather

than box dyes and you’re

winning the battle.

Paddy McDgall

RAINBOW ROOM INTERNATIONAL

See tonnes more from our PAINTERS online at creativeheadmag.com/paint

PAINT | 11


Gilty pleasure

WHETHER IT’S ROSE GOLD, SILVER, BRONZE OR SOMETHING MORE PLAYFUL, YOU CAN SATISFY

YOUR COLOUR CLIENT’S LUST FOR INSTA-WORTHY MOLTEN TONES WITH REVLON PROFESSIONAL’S

GLAMSQUAD COLLECTION AND NEW REVLONISSIMO SATINESCENT

12 | PAINT


IT’s a metaLLic

makeoVEr!

Encourage your clients to book in for a

Revlonissimo Satinescent metallic colour

appointment, and they’ll receive a Revlon Ultra HD

Matte Metallic Lipcolor in a complementary shade,

completely free! There are six shades to choose

from for a marvellous metallic match.

We love Rose Peach, #justsaying

FROM SEDUCTIVE, SHIMMERING silvers to pretty pastels

dancing in the light of a pearlescent finish, hair colour magpies

are succumbing to their obsession for all things metallic. It’s a

colour trend that racks up the likes on Instagram, and clients in

salons are determined to make such tools their own. You can

satisfy their chromatic cravings by sharing A/W18’s coolest

trends with the Revlon Professional Glamsquad Collection, using

a new colour that delivers molten metallics that mirror no other!

The Glamsquad Collection is more than a group of gorgeous,

client-covetable images; it illustrates a commitment to a

new culture that is teeming with possibilities, a world in

which every woman – guided expertly by her hair stylist –

discovers the power to design the image she wants to project.

This is delivering beautiful hair, yes; but it’s also delivering

empowerment and self-confidence, and you’re putting your

client in their own driving seat.

Three key looks depict a new, more technological

interpretation of feminine beauty: functional, urbane, innovative

and with a hint of the avant-garde, they form a flawless,

dynamic image of a woman who shines in her creative freedom

like never before. Metal-influenced tones and high sheen

metallic finishes cause a sensation during the day and add a

fresh, sophisticated finish at night. These luxurious metallic

tones combine to blur the boundaries of perception and create

stunning light effects… and while offering an infinite variety of

tone options to ensure her look is modern and on trend.

The key ingredient is new Revlon Professional Revlonissimo

Satinescent, the latest in reactive hair colour technology and a

launch that delivers sophisticated, metallic results with a soft

satin finish. Six new shades – Midnight Blue, Khaki Bronze, Deep

Pearl, Antique Rose, Mauve Glacé and Smoky Silver – create a

three-dimensional result that

tones cold and warm reflects,

and can be used to capture

translucent or intense effects.

And, of course, these fabulous

finishes are captured all while

ensuring high-quality colour

that lasts and beautiful care

for her hair, thanks to the

Colorsmetique Care System

from Revlon Professional.

Gleaming, gorgeous and

glittering. These are true

metallic shades that deliver

the gilty goods. Perfect for

your client’s own Glamsquad,

right? No filter necessary; not

when you’ve got shimmering

shades from Revlonissimo

Satinescent by Revlon

Professional. Luxe hair has

never looked so lustrous…

Capture the magic of Revlonissimo Satinescent and the Glamsquad

Collection in your salon. Call 020 7391 7440 or visit revlonprofessional.co.uk

PAINT | 13


The fecast

A/W18

Mark Fast

Eudon Choi

Jack Irving at On|Off

Jeremy Scott

Simone Rocha

Katie Eary

Marc Jacobs

Preen

THE CATWALKS ARE INSTRUMENTAL IN SHAPING FUTURE

COLOUR TRENDS – FROM THE CLOTHES WORN TO THE

MAKE-UP SHADES CHOSEN AND, OF COURSE, THE HAIR.

AND NOW CLIENTS SEE THESE HUES INSTANTANEOUSLY

ON SOCIAL MEDIA, MEANING YOU NEED TO BE READY

TO DELIVER. WE ASKED TOP HAIR COLOURISTS TO USE

THEIR FORECASTING KNOW-HOW TO PICK OUT THE THREE

TOP TRENDS THAT ARE GOING TO BE EVERYWHERE THIS

SEASON. GET YOUR MIXING BOWL READY, AND WELCOME

IN THE NEW SEASON…

Longshaw Ward at On|Off

Jeremy Scott

palmer//harding

14 | PAINT

Marc Jacobs


Anne Veck

Anne Veck

Bejewelled

SEE more from this shoot at

creativeheadmag.com/paint

PRODUCTS (from left) RUSK Colour Mousse, TIGI copyright©olour activators, JOICO Color

Intensity Pearl Pastel Collection, Manic Panic Pastelliser and Schwarzkopf Professional Igora

Royal Dusted Rouge

Bad Apple Hair

Affinage

Mark Fast

THE TREND

GEMSTONES

As the weather cools, it’s

time to raid your jewellery box

and pull out glittering tones

and crystallised colours for

inspiration. “This season’s

gem hues are a treasure trove

for colourists,” explains Anne

Veck, whose latest collection,

Precious, is inspired by semiprecious

stones. “It means we

have a huge, dynamic palette

of colours to play with.”

There’s a great spectrum of

shades, starting with rich jewel

tones and moving through to

light, iridescent colours. “This

season we will see multiple

crystal tones worked into blonde

hair for a subtly colourful finish,”

says Jenny Pelter, technical

director at Westrow Artistic

Team. “With baby blonde,

silver or white roots, blending

effortlessly into subtle and

gentle frosted pastel tones –

think rose quartz crystal and

amethyst purple – this look is

an easy way to delicately dip

into the pink trend with

minimal commitment.”

Importantly, gemstone colours

need to be reflective. “This is a

shimmering, understated option

rather than the full-on global

colours that we’ve seen of late,

it’s a pretty gemstone effect

that can work with any depth of

colouring,” says Katie Mulcahy,

RUSK UK brand ambassador.

“Blondes can opt for opal tones,

pinks, mints, and lilac hues, while

jade and emerald hues work

best with darker skin tones.”

Tom O’Brien, co-director of

Baroque Hair agrees that more

lavish tones are the future.

“Expect more amethyst, rose

gold and buttery blonde and let

your clients get ready to shine.

For extra effect add crystal

hairgrips to finish,” he says.

PAINT | 15


THE TREND

METALLICS

Bronze, silver and gold are

picking up medals for a second

season running, as more clients

are choosing polished tones.

“Metallic colours which make a

strong fashion statement have

become a big trend recently,

and this can be seen across

make-up, catwalk trends and, of

course, hair,” says Tracy Hayes,

global head of technical training

at Fudge Professional. “While

placing small accents of grey

and silver in hair has been a

popular approach, the look now

is about going big and bold, with

a full head of metallic colour.”

“For this trend we would use

our fusion technique,” explain

Dylan Brittain and Suzie McGill

of Rainbow Room International.

“We create a fusion of block

colour, by choosing hues which

are close together in depth and

tone. The colour transitions are

seamless but powerful and can

essentially make any regular cut

stand out from the crowd. It’s

all about layering and cooling –

perfect for the metallic trend.”

But, as with precious metals,

it’s important to keep the hair

polished and well looked after,

so they can shine bright.

“Getting the best out of this

trend all depends what the

client does at home,” says John

Spanton, director of colour at

Trevor Sorbie. “Metallic colours

in particular will dull after just

one week without the right

homecare. Colour shampoo and

conditioners are a must but it’s

also important to keep the hair

really healthy. Bond-building

products such as Olaplex

and L’Oréal Professionnel

Smartbond should be

introduced. Then using oils

and shine sprays will help keep

the hair and colour looking its

best shiny self!”

Paul Mitchell The Demi

Heavy metals

Temperley London

TIGI

Great Lengths

PRODUCTS (from left) Affinage Infiniti Metallics, Revlon Professional Revlonissimo

Satinescent, L’Oréal Professionnel Majirel Metals, Guy Tang’s #mydentity

Affinage

Revlon Professional

16 | PAINT


Paul Mitchell

Fashion images courtesy of BaByliss PRO, ghd, L’Oréal Professionnel, Moroccanoil, Redken, TIGI, Toni&Guy and Wella Professionals

Warm embers

Westrow

Goldwell

Andrew Jose Linton & Mac

PRODUCTS (from left) L’Oréal Professionnel Botanēa, Goldwell Pure Pigments,

Redken Color Gels Lacquers, Wella Profesisonals Koleston Perfect

Malan Breton

THE TREND

FLAME

SHADES

With autumn shades returning

such as sumptuous reds and

rich browns, colour palettes are

becoming warmer and burning

bright. “Copper hair always

comes back to us every year

during the autumn months,

especially for brunettes,” says

Steph Peckmore, group colour

director of Bad Apple Hair.

“Mahogany and violet-based

coppers will give our favourite

trend an interesting twist.” And

for those with lighter hair, Jason

Hogan, associate colourist at

Josh Wood Colour, predicts

the popularity of soft, radiant

amber. “This not-quite blonde,

not-quite copper shades

works wonderfully with fair skin,

softening the facial features and

adding a spark to the eyes.”

It’s for those who want a

change, but not a complete

overhaul. “This trend was made

for those who want to step out

of their colour comfort zone but

aren’t quite ready to go bold,”

says Krysia Eddery, owner and

director at Perfectly Posh Aveda

Concept salon. “The key to this

is to remain elusive with your use

of red tones and be selective

with which strands you colour.”

And where blondes were once

keen to banish warmth and

brassiness, it’s now becoming

a sought-after trait. “Tobacco

Yellow is my version of the

Generation Z yellow colour

trend we saw so much of, and

it is smoking-hot in more ways

than one,” says Sarah Back,

colour expert at Linton & Mac.

“Those looking to shake things

up can take their colour into

this darker version of blonde.

This incarnation is made more

wearable by creating a duskier,

almost dirty finish.”

PAINT | 17


TIGI Copyright Creative Consultation is a unique concept designed

to give clients the ‘wow factor’ during their colour service.

Importantly, it enables TIGI copyright©olour experts to create

endless ‘bespoke’ colours to enliven clients’ overall image with

recommendations for a personalised care regime

Christel Lundqvist

TIGI global creative technical director & founder of STIL salon

TIGI COPYRIGHT CREATIVE CONSULTATION – THE PATH TO A UNIQUE HAIR SERVICE

18 | PAINT


PAINT | 19


NOT YOUR AVERAGE

CONSULTATION

CHOOSING THE RIGHT SHADE FOR YOUR CLIENT’S HAIR IS ONE OF THE MOST IMPORTANT FACTORS IN THE

CONSULTATION. NAIL IT EVERY TIME WITH TIGI COPYRIGHT CREATIVE CONSULTATION

20 | PAINT


HAIR COLOUR HAS the power to transform someone’s

life, to give them a whole new outlook. As a colourist,

you know that the right hue is more than just choosing

a shade the client likes; it needs to work in harmony

with a haircut and that person’s style.

Attending the TIGI Copyright Creative Consultation

course can help you achieve this for every client,

whether they’re looking for a dramatic transformation

or just a refresh. It’s inspired by an approach used in

make-up that analyses a person’s natural hair level, skin

tone, complexion and eye level to recommend the best

colour palette. It also draws from the latest trends, as

colour is one of the most stimulating and vital aspects

of fashion. The TIGI Copyright Creative Consultation

includes detailed moodboards so colourists can

effectively communicate the overall vision for the

colour palette to help clients visualise what the

colourist recommends to them.

“TIGI believes the best service is tailor-made to

suit the individual client’s needs. Each of us is unique,

just like our hair. This is why every colour service

should be complemented by a personalised care

recommendation to maintain colour brilliance and

provide styling options,” explains Warren Boodaghian,

TIGI global technical academy director. “That’s why we

developed the TIGI Copyright Creative Consultation.”

Salons using TIGI copyright©olour and care

also receive in-salon educational support, as well

as the opportunity to attend colour courses at the

TIGI Academy.

PAINT | 21


BESPOKE

SOLUTIONS

COPYRIGHT EVERY CLIENT’S HAIR WITH A CUSTOMISED CARE REGIME OF

TAILORED TREATMENTS FROM NEW TIGI COPYRIGHT CARE

WHEN YOU COMBINE TIGI Copyright

Care with TIGI copyright©olour, you have

the power to create a truly customised

care regime for every client. You can offer

personalised treatments to use in the salon

and an aftercare programme clients can

follow between salon visits.

Today’s client is far more knowledgeable

and up-to-date on the latest products than

before, and they’re becoming increasingly

used to personalised services. TIGI

Copyright Care enables the hairdresser to

show-off their own expertise and create a

tailored regime.

The colour client is often the most loyal

(especially if they feel their colour can only

be achieved by you) and will come back to

the salon most often. But continual colour

services can also lead to complications,

such as hair damage. TIGI’s new service

provides a luxurious salon experience

with products of the highest level that also

return hair to optimal condition and maintain

condition from one visit to the next.

BOOST YOUR BACKBAR EXPERIENCES

Customer loyalty and aftercare sales

often begin at the back bar. Focused on

the treatment phase of the cut and colour

service, TIGI Copyright Care Boosters have

been created to empower the hairdresser to

deliver results clients can see and feel.

So provide the Unique Client Service

using nourishing TIGI Copyright Care

Treatment Base infused with keratin, shea

butter and TIGI’s Vitamin Complex. Then

select the ideal boosters from a choice

of three that can be used alone or mixed

together with the TIGI Copyright Care

Treatment Base:

SHINE BOOSTER

A specially formulated treatment to boost

cuticle reflection with an exclusive oil blend

of coconut oil and cassia leaf oil known for

high-shine properties, this treats the dulling

effects of colouring and styling.

SMOOTH BOOSTER

Designed to replenish the lipids lost

from the cuticle during heat styling, this

treatment seals in moisture and fights frizz.

REPAIR BOOSTER

This treatment, containing concentrated

Keratin Bond Complex, boosts the repair of

chemically damaged hair. Each application

contains seven days’ worth of lost keratin

and hair feels dramatically softer and

stronger after just one use.

22 | PAINT


IN NEED OF A HERO

The hero the TIGI Copyright

Care range is SOS Extreme

Recovery Treatment. Created

for use in the salon, it contains

100 times more keratin

than regular shampoo and

conditioner and is clinically

proven to repair internal

damage in just five minutes!

Infused with intense Marine

Protein Complex to penetrate

the hair fibre at its core, this

extreme recovery expert

treatment system helps repair

and reconstruct the most

severely damaged, overprocessed

hair, leaving it

smooth, healthy and strong.

With TIGI Copyright Care, we can leverage our expertise as professionals

to diagnose hair needs and provide recommendations for both colour and

care services. TIGI Copyright Care allows me to customise our salon service,

ensuring clients receive a tailored service designed exclusively for them

Christel Lundqvist

TIGI global creative technical director & founder of STIL salon

To find out how TIGI Copyright Care can help grow your clientele and to arrange for an account manager to visit your salon,

email: eu.customerservice@tigi.com, call 0344 844 0944 or visit tigicopyright.com. Keep up-to-date with the brand on Instagram @tigicopyright

PAINT | 23


40%

OF WOMEN ADMIT THE FIRST

THING THEY NOTICE ABOUT

SOMEONE ELSE IS THEIR HAIR

SALON

57%

WHERE DO CONSUMERS

COLOUR THEIR HAIR?

ONLY A

QUARTER OF

WOMEN CLASS

THEIR HAIR AS

HEALTHY

ONE-THIRD OF

WOMEN VIEW

INSTAGRAM

BEFORE THEIR

APPOINTMENT

25% 33%

BASED ON RUSH CLIENT RESEARCH, 2015

HOME

43%

COLOUR BY NUMBERS

HOW DO THE WOMEN IN THE UK AND IRELAND FEEL ABOUT HAIR COLOUR,

AND WHAT’S INSPIRING THEM TO TACKLE THE LATEST TRENDS?

HOW MUCH DO WOMEN

SPEND COLOURING THEIR

HAIR PER YEAR?

WOMEN WHO

COLOUR THEIR HAIR

AT HOME SPEND

£138 PER YEAR

WOMEN WHO

COLOUR THEIR HAIR

IN THE SALON SPEND

£156 PER YEAR

SURVEY OF 1,000 UK WOMEN CONDUCTED BY WELLA

PROFESSIONALS IN CONJUNCTION WITH CENSUSWIDE, 2017.

BRUNETTE

43%

WHAT COLOUR IS

YOUR HAIR*

RED

3%

GREY

4%

BLONDE

21%

AUBURN

8%

BLACK

7%

STRAWBERRY

BLONDE

7%

24 | PAINT


COLOUR

LANDSCAPE

47%

OF WOMEN THINK

BRIGHT HAIR

COLOURS ARE FOR

PEOPLE OF ALL AGES*

DOES YOUR HAIR

COLOUR MAKE

YOU FEEL MORE

CONFIDENT?

NO

12%

DO YOU SEE YOUR

HAIR COLOURIST

AS A FRIEND?

NO

36%

YES

88%

YES

64%

SURVEY OF LAYERED FOLLOWERS

ON INSTAGRAM, FEBRUARY 2018

THE TOP 10

FAMOUS FACES WHO HAVE

INSPIRED WOMEN TO

EXPERIMENT WITH

HAIR COLOUR

1

2

3

4

5

6

7

8

9

10

KATY PERRY

RIHANNA

BEYONCÉ

HELEN MIRREN

HRH DUCHESS

OF CAMBRIDGE

KIM

KARDASHIAN

RITA ORA

ELLIE

GOULDING

KATE HUDSON

KYLIE JENNER

*SURVEY OF 3,000 WOMEN IN THE UK AND IRELAND COMMISSIONED BY

L’ORÉAL PROFESSIONNEL AND CONDUCTED BY ONEPOLL.COM, JULY 2017

PAINT | 25


Creavity

UNBOUND

TIRED OF COLOUR RESULTS NOT LIVING UP TO EXPECTATIONS?

CHOOSE GOLDWELL SYSTEM AND THERE’S NO LIMIT TO WHAT YOU CAN ACHIEVE

26 | PAINT


YOU’VE DREAMED OF limitless colour

options for clients – now make it a reality

with Goldwell SYSTEM, a group of salonexclusive

products that allow for boundless

creativity and unprecedented colour results.

@Pure Pigments was the breakthrough

colour innovation from Goldwell earlier

in the year, following a collaboration with

the experts at FujiFilm. Now it’s time to

get even better colour results from

@Pure Pigments with Goldwell SYSTEM.

Divided into the following three categories –

Creativity, Solutions and Balance – Goldwell

SYSTEM is your gateway to creating colour

that knows no limits.

Dedicated to colour creativity, these

products now offer you everything you

need to customise, enrich and perfect

each colour service in one toolbox.

Creativity

Enjoy unlimited customisation of your

colour services without limits and without

foils with the new Goldwell Thickener. This

high-performing thickening fluid works with

oxidative colour and bleach, allowing for

colouring with highly contrasting tones of up

to four levels of difference directly next to

each other, without any colour bleeding.

Solutions

Perfect your colour services with the

dermatologically tested Goldwell Color

Remover, which gently but effectively

cleans colour residue from the skin after

any service.

Balance

Use these high-performance products

to optimise the hair structure and prevent

hair damage. Goldwell BondPro+ prevents

breakage by penetrating deep into the

hair and protecting the fibre from within

during the bleaching and colouring

process. Meanwhile, the Goldwell Structure

Equalizer helps to even out colour results

by optimising the colour deposit on

the hair that instantly equalises any

structural differences.

PAINT | 27


COLOR BOOSTING

It’s perfect for

creating spectacular

intensity and

show-stopping

shades with vivid

brilliance and

colour saturation.

Hair colour:

Goldwell SilkLift,

Topchic and

Colorance

System: Goldwell

Structure Equalizer,

BondPro+,

@Pure Pigments

and Thickener

Colr,

REIMAGINED

REDISCOVER WHY YOU GOT INTO COLOUR IN THE FIRST PLACE AND GET CLIENTS EXCITED ABOUT THEIR HAIR AGAIN

WITH @ELUMENATED HAIR COLOR SERVICES BY GOLDWELL

COLOR

MORPHING

It creates iridescent

and holographic

colour effects in the

hair that change and

move with light.

Hair colour:

Goldwell Topchic

System: Goldwell

Structure Equalizer,

@Pure Pigments

and Thickener

28 | PAINT


COLOR WASHING

Create beautiful

pastel washes,

ranging from subtle

to intense. Lighter

tones can be

illuminated with veils

of soft colour. The

combination of

@Pure Pigments

and the new

Goldwell Thickener

enables highcontrast

colouring

of several shades

without the need

of foils. Colour

bleeding is also

prevented.

Hair colour:

Goldwell SilkLift

and Colorance

System: Goldwell

Structure Equalizer,

BondPro+,

@Pure Pigments

and Thickener

COLOR COOLING

Create beautiful,

cool shimmering

tones suitable

for blondes

and brunettes.

Hair colour:

Goldwell Topchic

System: Goldwell

Structure Equalizer

and @Pure Pigments

Enjoy colour without limits with Goldwell SYSTEM, call 0330 1239530 or visit goldwell.co.uk for more information

PAINT | 29


Rossano Ferretti

Rossano Ferretti Dubai

WIGG

Terry Steventon Hairdressing

MATCH

GAME

WHAT DO YOU LOOK FOR IN A COLOUR BRAND?

AND WHAT CAN TEMPT YOU TO SWITCH?

HERE’S HOW THESE SALONS FOUND THEIR PERFECT MATCH

Neil Barton for Goldwell

Neil Barton for Goldwell

30 | PAINT

Russell Eaton Leeds

Robert Eaton


Paul Watts Hair

Addicted to Colour

Addicted to Colour

Paul Watts Hair

I’VE SWITCHED!

Rossano Ferretti, owner

of 23 luxury hair spas

worldwide, became a

global ambassador for

Coty Professional when

he switched to Wella

Professionals earlier this year

What mattered most when

you switched?

To educate consumers about

real beauty, respecting diversity.

To upgrade the image of our

industry. And that we shared the

same vision and mission.

What keeps clients coming in

for their salon colour?

A beautiful result, and the

experience they have with us.

Innovative new products also

mean we can use marketing to

drive new business – we drive

the message around the world.

And what are their main

concerns over salon colour?

Today, clients want to colour

their hair without damaging

their hair, which is why new

Koleston Perfect with ME+ is

so important. Our philosophy

is to treat our clients’ hair with

respect and having a product

range that helps us achieve the

ultimate colour result is a vital

part of that philosophy.

Luke Halford’s salon,

Addicted to Colour, switched

to Goldwell when the brand

launched @Pure Pigments

What mattered most when

you switched?

The Goldwell culture was in

line with our own, its products

are innovative and we had a

strong agreement in terms of

education and so on.

Did you involve your team in

the decision process?

Every step of the way. We

got our managers on board

by taking them to the

Goldwell Color Zoom event

in Barcelona; and we were

invited as a team to the

Goldwell London Academy

to view a colour demo.

When Goldwell comes up with

a new colour innovation, is it

something your team talks to

their clients about?

Yes – the training provided by

the brand is excellent and gives

our team the confidence to use

the products and talk about

them to clients.

Do colour innovations help

bring in new business?

We regularly stream pictures

of our work on social media,

including information such

as the time taken, the colour

products used, and the cost of

the service. We get lots of new

enquiries from this.

Terry Steventon Hairdressing

in Bournemouth recently

switched to TIGI

What mattered most when

you switched?

Vibrancy, shade choice – in

particular the range of blondes

and reds – and mixability.

Did you involve your team in

your decision-making?

Yes – colour is a major part of

our business and our choice of

colour partner impacts us all.

How do you react to new

innovations from TIGI? Does it

reassure you you’ve made the

right choice?

It’s important for a colour

manufacturer to innovate

– it helps us grow creatively

and as a business. We all get

excited with anything new, and

Copyright Care, TIGI’s new

personalised care range, has

caused a real buzz. We will test

it to its limits!

What keeps clients coming in

for their colour?

The service they receive,

our attention to detail, the

cleanliness of our salon – and

our passion for what we do.

Paul Watts Hair in Kettering

recently moved over to

JOICO colour

What made you switch?

Education, the relationship and

the quality of the product.

When JOICO introduces new

products and ranges, does it

reassure you you’ve made the

right choice?

Absolutely, it instils confidence.

Having new products and

colour systems encourages

education and also excites us

as hairdressers. We all love

shiny new things!

And is it something you

discuss with your clients?

The ‘plex’ hype is something

that has invigorated the

industry and having a colour

brand build it into its systems

is incredible. Clients know their

hair is being looked after 100

per cent of the time, and it helps

our bottom line as a business.

What keeps your colour

clients loyal to your salon?

The relationship we have with

them, and trust. The end result

is so important and boy, do

we have some incredible work

walking out of our door!

Do you still keep an eye on

other colour brands?

Always! Would I be growing and

learning if I didn’t?

Addicted to Colour

PAINT | 31


Inizio

Inizio’s Les Jones

WIGG

I’VE STAYED!

Robert Eaton, creative

director of Russell Eaton and

Wella Professionals’ UK and

Ireland technical director

What do you love about

Wella Professionals?

The innovation. It is constantly

one step ahead, and the latest

Koleston Perfect with ME+ is

incredible. I have complete

faith that Wella Professionals

is breaking ground and

pushing boundaries.

How does it bring in clients?

New innovations in colour

can attract new clients, if you

promote them in the right way.

We use social media to share

the end results of a new colour.

Explaining to the average client

what colour does is one thing,

but they really need to be

shown the results to truly get it.

How do you keep hold of

new clients?

Professional application and

bespoke techniques with

products that don’t damage the

hair are what keep our colour

clients returning. You must get

every element of the service

spot-on for strong repeat

business. The product needs to

be exceptional, the application

and technique need to be

completely bespoke, and the

service needs to be five-star.

Les Jones is salon director of

Inizio in Newark, Nottingham,

and has been with TIGI for years

What makes you so loyal

to TIGI?

As a busy salon we would

always want to be associated

with a leading colour brand

– one that excites the team,

understands what the salon

needs and offers fantastic

education on a regular basis.

What’s the main thing that

keeps clients coming in?

Commitment to colour upkeep,

generally. However, we offer

some great ‘in-between’

services, like Tonal Root

Smudge or a Clear Gloss Shine

– great for boosting colour

longevity and condition.

Even though you’re committed

to TIGI, do you still keep an eye

on what other colour brands

are doing?

Yes! If we didn’t, we wouldn’t

understand what our

competitors are offering. So far,

we’ve always found TIGI to be

ahead of the game.

Alastair Jubb owns VAE in

Diss, Norfolk, and is a fan

of L’Oréal Professionnel’s

Botanēa colour range

What do you love about

L’Oréal Professionnel?

Colour brands need to be

continually innovating to

ensure we can offer the

latest services to our clients.

For example, we were looking

for a natural-based colour

solution, and like magic,

two weeks later L’Oréal

Professionnel presented us

Botanēa and the education to

support us. Now we can offer

the service with 100 per cent

passion and confidence.

What about the brand appeals

to clients?

New innovations help to

develop a loyal clientele by

keeping us one step ahead of

our competitors. We always

have a team talk prior to launch,

so we can gauge our feelings

and direction. We tell our clients

about our new services via

social media and consultations.

Ryan Nicoletti-Dowd is the

owner of WIGG and a JOICO

European Design Team

member

What made you choose

JOICO colour?

First, the products deliver

on every level. Second, the

freedom of pure pigment

colour, which allows me and the

team to be truly creative with

our salon colours and deliver

something truly tailored for

each client. And third, that our

clients saw a positive change in

their hair.

How do you react to updates

from JOICO colour such as

Blonde Life?

It’s always great when a brand

creates what the market wants,

and that they drop them at the

right time. As an industry we

never sit still, so brands need to

be on their game.

What are the main things that

keep clients coming in for

their salon colour?

The colour market is supercompetitive

and clients on

social media are not so loyal

as they’re always looking for

something new, so you have to

keep them keen. I build up my

younger team members to take

care of the kind of looks that

are driven by social media, while

my clients aged 40 or more

come to my more experienced

colourists, who can take those

trends and give them a more

commercial twist.

Neil Barton is the owner of

Neil Barton Hairdressing in

Edinburgh and a Goldwell

Ambassador

What do you love about

Goldwell?

It’s is always updating its range.

I was lucky enough to work with

Research and Development to

test @Pure Pigments for a year

before it was released, and it is a

game-changer. Being able to mix

a direct dye into any oxidative

Goldwell colour is amazing, and

the results are stunning.

What about the brand appeals

to clients?

Clients are always looking for

the next new thing, so they’re

happy to hear about new

products and services. We use

social media and we try out new

innovations on the team, so

clients can see the results. We

also do client evenings focused

around new products, so they’re

very much in the loop.

32 | PAINT


HIGHLIGHTS IN

HALF THE TIME

PERFECT FOR CLIENTS with little time to spare, L’Oréal

Professionnel’s Instant Highlights gives up to

six levels in fewer than 30 minutes, thanks to a threepart

system that includes PRO HEAT technology.

You need to ensure you’re talking about the right

Instant Highlights service with each colour client in

your chair. Are you ready to have the quick chat?

The clock is ticking…

THE COLOUR ADDICT

THE REGULAR ROOT TOUCH-UP

The most loyal of the lot! So how about introducing

an Instant Highlights package to include a Smartbond

treatment and toner as well? Pitch it as an express

service they can have in-between balayage.

While you are waiting for the roots to develop, have you

considered offering a few #instalights to refresh the midlengths

and ends? This is a really easy and simple way to

build in Instant Highlights. Instant glow? Give it a go…

34 | PAINT


THE ‘POP IN… POP OUT’ CLIENT

THE NIGHT OWL

Do you have clients that have only one hour to spare?

Why not give them an #instantcontouring service

and throw in a Smartbond treatment as well? No

clock-watching necessary…

It’s Date Night for one of your regulars… she has big

plans that warrant a little more than her regular cut and

blow-dry. Why not upgrade her to an Instant Highlights

service by offering a few face-framing lights in a flash?

To find out more about Instant Highlights, call 0800 0304034, visit lorealprofessionnel.co.uk

or visit online education platform Access at lorealaccess.com/uk

PAINT | 35


ALTERED

IMAGES

PHOTOGRAPHY BY LEE MITCHELL

36 | PAINT


WITH ALTERNATE LIVES, PAUL STAFFORD

FOR ALFAPARF MILANO DELIVERS

ATTITUDE AND LASHINGS OF BOLD

COLOUR FUSED WITH STRONG LINES

AND INTRICATE, FACE-FRAMING DETAIL

PAINT | 37


38 | PAINT


HAIR Paul Stafford, ALFAPARF Milano global ambassador; and Zara Colhoun, exclusively for ALFAPARF Milano Ireland.

COLOUR Aidan Bradley. MAKE-UP DJ Griffin. STYLING Sara O’Neill.

PAINT | 39


Pß st!

WANNA SHOOT A PROCESSING PORNO?

DO FABULOUS FOILS IN CRISP FORMATION GET YOUR CREATIVE JUICES FLOWING? YOU’RE NOT ALONE.

SO-CALLED #PROCESSINGPORN HAS TURNED PRE-REVEAL COLOUR WORK INTO AN ART FORM

40 | PAINT


PSST!

PROCESSING PORN

Images courtesy of Instagram @peachiehair and @processperfect

ROW UPON ROW OF perfectly aligned foils,

folded with origami precision and neatness.

The effect is so pleasing it’s practically

orgasmic. ‘Processing porn’ – this

celebration of the colour processing stage

– has become the latest trend to sweep

Instagram and we are here for it!

Whether it’s capturing the careful

placement of freehand bleach or the subtle

spiral of foils, processing porn is all about

highlighting the amount of effort that goes

into radical colour transformations – the

wait before the big reveal, the calm before

the storm.

“Hairdressing isn’t just a job, it’s science

in an art form,” insists Amelia Fugitt,

a colourist whose @processperfect

Instagram page has helped to bring the

trend into the spotlight. “Anyone can buy

box colour at the supermarket, but can your

average person take black hair with yellow

stripes to an even silver in one session?

Hair colour is all about chemistry.”

A healthy dose of science and creativity

goes into each of Amelia’s clients’ looks,

all documented on her account for fellow

colourists to drool over, but also to illustrate

the artistry and precision of professional

colour to potential clients. “I’ve always

wanted the cleanest-looking foils since the

beginning of my career,” she says. “Every

step of the transformational experience

should be calculated and aesthetically

pleasing. I want to capture this necessary

step and highlight – no pun intended – the

artists that are perfecting their process.”

Jenna Pitocco @peachiehair, a colourist

at Paul Fox Salon in New York, is similarly

enthusiastic. She finds the processing

stage to be the most fascinating and

satisfying aspect of colouring: “I really enjoy

capturing the raw moments that lead up to

something beautiful. The process alone of

applying colour or putting foils into the hair

is so therapeutic.” Documenting her work

has helped to showcase her talents, but it’s

also an aid to put her clients at ease. “The

client will be sitting there for some time with

all this activity on their head, so I’m going to

make sure it looks clean and neat.”

“I take pride in being honest and real with

clients,” adds Jenna. “Capturing these raw

moments that are so pleasing to look at are

just as important to me as the final product

– they can see I adore what I do.”

It’s an approach that’s seen the popularity

of these artists soar, keeping their books full

thanks to their intricate methodology and

attention to detail. “Instagram has become

my leading source of client growth because

of my attention to detail,” Amelia says.

“When the average client sees a perfectly

smooth head of foils with a gorgeous ‘after’

picture, they are more likely to book with

that stylist rather than another. Once I even

had a client come to me because she saw

my foils and said she wanted a stylist that

cared enough to take the time to have crisp

foils, and didn’t even mention the finished

looks on my page.”

The processing porn movement

celebrates the time and the effort often

ignored by the usual ‘before and after’

images. It’s something Jenna in particular

has embraced, having witnessed the

negativity and pressures of social media.

“This beautiful balayage that we show a

‘before and after’ for, what about what it

took to get there? People like seeing the

story – you have to go through the ‘ugly’ to

get to the ‘pretty.’ The pictures I capture are,

in every sense, the pride of my craft.”

There have always been those looking

to set themselves apart with their artistry

to drive the industry forward. For Amelia,

she’s hoping that a focus on the technical

aspects of the job, rather than the end

results, will create a more informed and

respected industry. “A platinum could easily

take more than nine hours and it takes a toll

on a stylist, mentally and physically. I want

everyone to be able to recognise that.”

“EVERY STEP OF

THE EXPERIENCE

SHOULD BE

CALCULATED AND

AESTHETICALLY

PLEASING”

AMELIA FUGITT

@PROCESSPERFECT

HOW TO CAPTURE

PROCESSING

JENNA PITOCCO

@PEACHIEHAIR

HAVE FUN WITH PHOTOS AND

DON’T BE TOO CRITICAL

With ‘after’ shots of hair, everyone is so

conscious of the placement, how it’s

styled, lighting, dimension, angles and

so on. With process photos you want it

to be raw and organically beautiful, so

don’t overthink it.

LOG A VARIETY OF WORK

These shots are meant to help you

fall even more in love with something

that’s already your passion. “It keeps

me appreciating every step of an

appointment instead of just the ‘before

and after’,” Jenna adds.

PAINT | 41


Meeng

MINDS

WHEN TWO TOP COLOURISTS GET TOGETHER FOR AN OH-SO ENGLISH AFTERNOON TEA, WE GET

THE GOSSIP ON SOME OF THE BIGGEST ISSUES THEY FACE EVERY DAY. NOT ANOTHER SALON’S

SOPHIA HILTON – WINNER OF MOST WANTED COLOUR EXPERT 2018 – AND US INSTAGRAM

SMASH AND JOICO AMBASSADOR, LARISA LOVE, GET DEBATING…

2018

2018

42 | PAINT


ON INSPIRATION...

Larisa Love: I find my inspiration from

nature – especially when I travel and

experience different cultures. The sunrise,

the sunset, all the different colours, all the

different melts. I don’t really find inspiration

from people. I mean I look at their work and

think ‘oh wow, that’s beautiful.’ But I want to

create my own type of art on my clients, so

travelling, culture and nature really are my

top sources of inspiration.

Sophia Hilton: I’m really interested in the

practicalities of hairdressing. I’m inspired

by ‘well, this is super-creative, but how

practical is it?’ ‘How could I make money out

of this?’ Because what I think is happening

in the UK is that creative hairdressing isn’t

being pushed as hard as it could be, simply

because you can’t afford the product.

People are wondering how to make it work

for them, within their means. I guess I’ve

been less inspired by hair recently and more

inspired by the whole picture.

ON INSTAGRAM...

LL: I utilised Instagram very early because

I saw the potential in it. As Instagram

is a visual platform it’s amazing for us

hairdressers – or any artist out there – to

really put yourself out there. Slowly but

surely, I built up the type of clientele that I

wanted from social media. I want people

like me – young and fun and edgy with their

hair. It’s where 99 per cent of my clientele

is from and it’s where brands found me. I

don’t think I would be anywhere near where

I am without social media. I am not the best

hairdresser out there, but I am great at

marketing myself on social media.

SH: It’s really hard to get Instagram going

when you’re in a really classic salon that

might have a lot of middle-aged ladies. It’s

tough when you don’t have that impressive

client list coming in for transformations...

I’m glad I experienced that because now

I can give better advice when I teach on

social media, because I learned how to do

all that stuff. Marketing is really important – if

you have a great product but you don’t know

how to sell it, then it will only stay a great

product on the shelf. You are a product and

you have to learn how to package yourself.

ON TRENDS...

SH: I don’t really care for the trends moving

as fast. I actually like the consistency of

offering a certain product that people buy

that has guaranteed, tried-and-tested

results. Our work is quite simple – I like

to deliver consistency and be known

for something. Different things work for

different people; you’ve got to find what

works for you that’s niche.

LL: What I’m starting to see way more

frequently is dip-dye. It’s coming back, and

as blocking dip-dye, like a line. I actually

really love it. I did it in my hair – I had a yellow

dip-dye going through, just on the ends, and

it looked so cool. I’ve started seeing that

everywhere, especially with blunt bobs.

ON THE BEST ADVICE

EVER RECEIVED...

LL: Don’t compare yourself with someone

else. I think a lot of people do it with others

at a higher level than them, but forget that

everyone started out exactly where they

were. They just want to jump the gun and

skip all the steps where they’re growing

and learning, but you’ve got to start at the

bottom. Go your own pace, at your own

growth and be yourself, be authentic to be

the best that you can be.

SH: There’s a northern expression: ‘you

don’t get owt for nowt’, so you get nothing

for nothing. I love it. I’ve always worked hard

– I’m from a family of hard workers, we graft.

You get out what you put in so I’ve always

put a lot in so… bye-bye, social life!

WHEN SOPHIA

MET LARISA

See what else our PAINTER and Most Wanted Colour Expert Sophia has to say online! creativeheadmag.com/paint

PAINT | 43


L’Oréal Professionnel

THE

RAINBOW

DEMOCRACY

TECHNOLOGY IS CATCHING UP WITH CLIENT DEMAND – SAY HELLO TO PLAYFUL SHADES FOR

ALL HAIR BASES, SO YOU CAN MAKE YOUR BRUNETTE’S UNICORN DREAM A REALITY

THE DEMAND FOR rainbow shades and

vivid hues is still going strong. However, it’s

meant darker-haired clients wanting to try

these tones face disappointment unless

they’re happy to hit the bleach.

“Many darker-haired clients are keen

to try the temporary colour trend, but

don’t know they need to pre-lighten their

hair first,” says Gill Berry, JOICO European

Colour Design Team member. “It’s definitely

put them off.”

When PAINT asked colourists if they

think their darker-haired clients would try

more fashion shades if pre-lightening wasn’t

required, the answer was an emphatic ‘yes’.

Cue a plethora of colour houses now

launching temporary colours that work

on all hair bases. While most of these new

products still can’t offer permanent or even

semi-permanent shades, it does offer an

option previously unknown to darker-haired

clients and taps a whole new market.

Improved technology has opened up the

possibilities when it comes to temporary

colours for clients with darker hair tones,

explains Alan Cane, associate director of

education at Kao Salon Division UK. He

points to KMS STYLECOLOR, which has

an innovative matte-metallic hue. “The

polymer complex technology with a blend

of pigments is also beneficial for those with

dark hair as the product evenly adheres to

the hair’s surface and builds a flexible, ultrathin

film to guarantee even results.”

“Temporary colours allow clients to really

accessorise their hair, whether it’s for a night

out, festival or just to try a new look,” says

Joe Hemmings, owner of Bloggs Salons in

Bristol. He points to L’Oréal Professionnel’s

new #COLORFULHAIR Flash Pro Hair Make-

Up as a quick and easy route.

Schwarzkopf Professional has just

launched Bold Color Washes for in-salon

use only. They have highly pigmented

formulas that can deposit vibrant colours

for bold, semi-permanent results.

Tracy Hayes, global head of technical

training at Fudge Professional, adds: “I’m

sure it’s the dream of all manufacturers to

come up with permanent ‘fantasy colours’

without bleaching, so who knows what

technology the future will bring.”

44 | PAINT


L’Oréal Professionnel

WELCOME TO

THE HOUSE OF FUN

TEMPORARY

COLOURS


L’ORÉAL PROFESSIONNEL

#COLORFULHAIR FLASH PRO HAIR

MAKE-UP

Change up your client’s look for every

occasion with L’Oréal Professionnel’s

new fun-filled palette, including two

holographic shades. For in-salon use

only, #COLORFULHAIR Flash Pro Hair

Make-Up coats the hair in pigmented

colour that washes out in just one

shampoo and works on all hair bases.

KMS STYLECOLOR

Meet the first on/off spray-on colour

by KMS. Available in nine style tones,

including fashionable matt metallic shades,

STYLECOLOR washes out after one

shampoo but is still pillow-friendly.


SCHWARZKOPF PROFESSIONAL

BOLD COLOR WASH

Available in four shades, these

washes deliver bold, vibrant colour

with minimal effort and long-lasting

results. Thanks to the semi-permanent

performance in a sulphate-free shampoo

base, the highly pigmented formulas

provide one-step colouration fast.


“I love new KMS STYLECOLOR! My clients are

already requesting it and want to experiment.

They have the bottle to reapply, so they are in

control of when they have the colour and how

it’s applied, which sometimes inspires clients

to be a little more creative. That could then lead

onto them suggesting they want colour for real,

so it’s a win-win!”

Casey Coleman

CHAIR Salons, PAINTER

RUSK COLOUR MOUSSE

Impressive for its ability to style and

colour hair in one go, the RUSK Colour

Mousse adds body, hold, volume – and

colour! It’s perfect for clients that want to

try the more fashionable shades, but don’t

want to change permanently. It’s also great

for those with darker hair as the colour

shows up brilliantly, no matter which of the

four shades your clients choose.


PAINT | 45


Paintb

The latest launches and products to

boost the contents of your colour kit

Stripping away colour without leaving clients’ hair

in a state is a tricky business. Zalon’s three-step

Colour Remover system with argan oil keeps hair

looking and feeling great.

01924 466999

hairtools.co.uk

Schwarzkopf Professional’s Igora Royal

Lucid Nocturnes marks part three of its Igora

#RoyalTakeOver. Seductively deep, the punky

midnight tones of the range have been chosen by

trend-setters Rossa Jurenas and Linh Phan.

0800 526741

schwarzkopf-professional.co.uk

Eluminate hair with Goldwell’s new @Elumenated Hair

Color Services, using Goldwell SYSTEM. With three

categories – Creativity, Solutions and Balance – this

colourist’s toolbox is your creativity’s BFF.

01323 432100

goldwell.co.uk

Power up your colour skills with the

new Superpower Direct Dyes from Guy

Tang’s #mydentity line. Save hair from

insipid colour for up to 50 washes, with

no developer needed.

0845 6590011, 0330 1231907

salon-success.co.uk,

salon-services.com

“I love Koleston Perfect ME+.

It’s exactly what I’ve been

waiting for. The upgrade in

dye loads and the modern

interpretation of the shades

are really on point”

Jayson Gray

Karbon Kyd, PAINTER

Wella Professionals has unveiled a

revolutionary colour innovation – Koleston

Perfect with ME+ features breakthrough

technologies, Pure Balance Technology

and ME+, proven to deliver rich results with

less damage.

01256 320202

wella.co.uk

Celebrate 20 years of Paul Mitchell colour with

the new intensely Cool Collection from The

Demi. Ideally suited for high-level blondes, these

four delicate shades can be used individually for

single-tone refinement or intermixed with The

Demi shades for added dimension.

0845 6590011

salon-success.co.uk

46 | PAINT


Limited edition Mother of Pearl is a new

silver-over-liquorice shade in the Great Lengths

line-up, available in both pre-bonded and GL

Tapes system.

0113 2781292

greatlengthshair.co.uk

There can be no messing about with sub-par

applicators when you’re working with vibrant

colours. Manic Panic Tint Brushes give you

professional precision, every time.

01579 341913

manic-panic.co.uk

Want soft, iridescent on-trend shades? Reach for

JOICO Color Intensity Pearl Pastel collection, with

rose gold, violet pearl, blush and silver ice hues.

0845 0712326

joico.com

Dive deep into the

RUSK Deepshine

Colour aftercare range

for protection from

UV damage, thermal

styling and the

effects of daily

washing to help

preserve your careful

colour work.

0330 1231907

salon-services.com

This season is all about creating cool colour

reflects, so search out the three new shades

in the DIA Light Milkshake palette from

L’Oréal Professionnel.

0845 6000122

lorealprofessionnel.co.uk

“Clients love the quick application

Redken Color Gels Lacquers allows

us to achieve, and it’s the last

word in shine!”

Amy Fish

PAINTER and colourist, Larry King

Create molten-metal colours with new

Revlonissimo Satinescent from Revlon

Professional. Ultra-reflective with a metallic

sheen, there’s the new Glamsquad collection to

show off in salons, too!

020 7391 7440

revlonprofessional.co.uk

The perfect partner in crime for TIGI’s

copyright©olor, the new Copyright Care range

extends your consultation process to span

diagnosis, personalised colour and customised

care for between visits. Copy that!

0844 8440944

tigiprofessional.com

Welcome to a new gel-eration of colour! With

intense saturation and mirror-like shine, the

new Redken Color Gels Lacquers are set to

be a game-changer in colour formulations.

08000 854956

redken.co.uk

PAINT | 47


Wella Professionals

Art schl

Get back in the classroom to boost your colour career

Affinage

Principles of Colouring:

The Cut Creative

Perfect for colourists desperate

to let their creativity loose! The

Education team will be on hand to

show you on-trend cut and colour

before a hands-on afternoon.

12 November

Affinage Academy, Romsey

01794 527111; asphair.com

ALFAPARF Milano

Seamless Colouring

Designed to create beautiful

blends and colour combinations

incorporated for a seamless

result for colourists.

29 October

Benjamin Close Hairdressing,

Bangor

+353 45856487; xpertpro.ie

Fudge Professional

Headpaint Colour Essentials

This covers hair structure, the

colour wheel, catalyst choice,

achieving the correct target

shade, formulating and correction.

27 November

Stoke-on-Trent

01782 202080

Goldwell

Color Lab

For senior colourists, this course is

all about learning to express your

vision in personalised colour and

formula concepts.

17 October

London

020 3540 1200; goldwell.co.uk

JOICO

JOICO LumiShine Color

Essentials

This course provides a thorough

understanding of the JOICO

LumiShine Color range, taking in

the colour wheel, achieving the

target shade and correction.

23 October

Alan Howard, Preston

0845 3458535

L’Oréal Professionnel

Advanced Colour Inspirations –

Skyler McDonald

Founder of colour-only salon

Skyler London, Skyler will share

her insight into colours that work,

how to apply a silk bath and how

to personalise after-care.

26 November

London

lorealaccess.com/uk

Manic Panic

Achieving Neons

Get technical with the theory

behind neon and UV colours

and learn how best to create and

maintain intense, bold colours.

January 2019

Location TBC

01579 341913

Not Another Salon

Unrealistic expectations

This colour change course was

developed over a year with a

psychologist to help give you the

tools to deal with nightmare clients!

27,29 October; 5 November

Not Another Academy, London

notanotheracademy.com;

education@notanothersalon.com

Redken

Game of Blondes

Learn tips, tricks and salon proven

formulas for lightening and

glossing at every level. Ready to

up your blonde game? Discover

gorgeous looks to help every

client lighten up!

22 to 23 October

London

lorealaccess.com/uk

Revlon Professional

Bespoke Colour

Discover how to maximise

colour business with this

Thomas Hills-led course.

Whether you’re a great colourist,

stylist or salon owner, this will

uncover the elements needed to

evolve your operation.

30 October

Leeds

020 7391 7440;

revlonprofessional.com

Salon Services

Sally Freehand Hair Painting

Create ultimate colour results

and master freehand colouring

during this practical, hands-on

technique-focused training

session. You’ll also learn how to

revive colour services in the salon

with trend-led colour application.

27 November

Aberdeen

0330 1231907;

salon-services.com

Schwarzkopf

Professional

Freehand Specialist

Freehand colouring is a technique

that is here to stay – but are you

clued up on all of the skills needed

to nail this creative trend? This

course is dedicated to colour

trends, teaching you all you

need to know about the salonfriendly

techniques.

22 October

Glasgow

01442 278000,

askacademy@henkel.com

TIGI

Colour Consultation

A bespoke form of consultation

for your clients, this will give you

greater understanding of the

principles of assessing skin tone,

eye colour and complexion and

help grow your confidence in

using a trend-focused approach

to customise your client palette.

22 to 23 October

London

020 7228599,

tigiprofessional.com/education

Wella Professionals

The Perfect Colour Choice

Discover how to choose the right

colour every time with step by step

guidance – then use your new skills

to help you grow your column, as

well as gain confidence.

21 November

Wella Studio, Manchester

0161 8342645,

wella.co.uk

48 | PAINT


L’Oréal Colour Trophy Grand Final 2018, Hair by Percy & Reed Art Team

STARMAKERS

Push yourself and your skills with events that can see your career rocket…

Wella International

TrendVision Award

WHEN 8 October

WHERE London

Salons from across the UK and

Ireland duke it out for the Creative

Vision and Color Vision titles,

alongside the Runway and Male

Grooming contests. There’ll also

be an onstage show from Guest

PAINTER Robert Eaton, and UK

and Irish winners will compete

in November in Lisbon at the

International Final.

wella.co.uk/trendvision

The Alternative Hair

Show

When 14 October

Where London

Held at the iconic Freemasons

Hall, this year’s theme is Mystique

and will include the winners of the

International Visionary Awards.

There are still tickets for the

afternoon show if you’re quick!

info@alternativehair.org

milk_shake presents

Colour Nation

WHEN 25 November

WHERE London

Taking place at the Clapham

Grand, this show will see the

milk_shake Artistic Team put

on an awesome evening of

creative entertainment… and

there’s one heck of an

afterparty, too!

milkshakehaircare.co.uk

Goldwell Color Zoom 19

WHEN opens January;

deadline is 31 May

WHERE UK final in July;

international final 29 September

A new trend, a new challenge.

All will be revealed soon but the

categories will remain the same –

New Talent, Creative Colorist and

Partner Colorist. There’s also the

chance to grab a day’s mentorship

and shoot with Beverly C to

capture your entry!

colorzoom.com

L’Oréal Colour Trophy

WHEN The competition opens

2 January 2019

WHERE Regional Semi Finals

nationwide; the Grand Final in

London in summer 2019

Unleash the star in you with this

iconic colour competition – the

deadline is 18 February. Semifinalists

are revealed on 6 March

2019 – could it be your year?

lorealcolourtrophy.com

Most Wanted and

The It List

WHEN Entries open

1 March 2019

WHERE London

The crème de la crème of

hairdressing will be competing

for the most coveted trophies

around. Keep an eye on the hotly

contested Colour Expert category

– who will be wearing the colour

crown next?

creativeheadmag.com/

mostwanted

The Coterie

WHEN Throughout the year

WHERE London

This exclusive, members-only

networking club offers a unique

opportunity to mix with your peers

over a glass of win and hear from

the biggest names in hairdressing

and fashion. Previous star

speakers have included session

legends such as Guido and colour

heroes like Josh Wood.

creativeheadmag.com/

the-coterie

L’Oréal Colour Trophy Grand Final 2018

PAINT | 49


OPINION

YOU

VERSUS

THE LIKES

LINTON & MAC

COLOUR EXPERT

SARAH BLACK IS

FEELING SOME SOCIAL

(MEDIA) ANXIETY –

SHOULD SHE POST

WHAT GETS HER THE

LIKES, OR WHAT’S TRUE

TO HER OWN STYLE?

54 | PAINT

MY STYLE

INSTA HITS

THERE IS NO DENYING the positive power of social media

– especially Instagram – when it comes to the hair industry.

However, I do feel that we frequently get caught up in what’s

expected of us. As a result, a pressure has built that I call

‘Instagram demand’ – to give your audience what they want

to see, rather than what you want to post, leading us to post

images that are more likely to be liked, securing a heart that’s

(hopefully) from the heart. The inherent problem with this, of

course, is that it creates a discrepancy between the images you

post – between those that a true reflection of your work and the

images you feel will gain the most ‘likes’.

I’m experiencing this more and more. Although I would never

consider myself a perfectionist, I do struggle to allow myself

to post some images that others might not consider ‘perfect’.

Naturally I want to make sure my industry peers and the muses

that inspire me see my best work, and in my head that means

every hair should be in its correct place and every image should

be perfectly finished.

As a result, I often find myself looking at styles I’ve created that

may not be super-polished, and hesitating to post them. What

makes this so ridiculous is that a super-polished aesthetic is

actually not my style at all: I much prefer looks that are a little rough

around the edges, with an unfinished, undone, more ‘real’ quality to

them. It means I find myself torn between posting the slightly less

glam images that are far more representational of my style, and

posting the glossier versions that I know will go down so well on

my Instagram page (@WhatSarahDoes).

In this fast-paced, social media-driven world, we’re trying to

keep on top of our colour game, while at the same time ensuring

we’re producing new content and fresh visuals. That’s tough

enough, without the added pressure to ensure we take the

best possible images to post on social media. I worry that this

professional expectation has resulted in a lot of what we do

looking the same, leading to there being a lack of variety and

diversity in the work we post.

Want to make a splash with a colour-centric opinion? Let us know @creativeheadmag and we’ll start a conversation


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