Eatdrink Waterloo & Wellington #5 February/March 2019
The LOCAL food & drink magazine serving Waterloo Region and Wellington County
The LOCAL food & drink magazine serving Waterloo Region and Wellington County
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8 | <strong>February</strong>/<strong>March</strong> <strong>2019</strong><br />
eatdrink.ca |@eatdrinkmag<br />
Restaurants<br />
<strong>Waterloo</strong>/Cambridge Pioneers<br />
A Brief History of Cerny Hospitality Group<br />
Blackshop Restaurant • Solé Restaurant and Wine Bar • Melville Café<br />
By ANDREW COPPOLINO<br />
With a 35-year history that<br />
began at the Blackshop<br />
Restaurant in the community<br />
of Galt in Cambridge, Cerny<br />
Hospitality has the distinction of being one<br />
of the pioneers of food entrepreneurism in<br />
Cambridge and <strong>Waterloo</strong> Region.<br />
“My mom and dad, Jan and Eva, opened<br />
Blackshop in 1983 as a 32-seat bistro on<br />
Ainslie Street North. I was about ten years<br />
old,” says their son John Cerny.<br />
The young Cerny started washing dishes<br />
and making salads and desserts in a family<br />
business that has grown to three restaurants<br />
in two cities: Blackshop and Melville Café in<br />
Cambridge and Solé in <strong>Waterloo</strong>. In building<br />
the hospitality group, with three different<br />
restaurant concepts, one thing Cerny has<br />
learned is that a restaurant has a soul. “It<br />
takes its own direction in a way. You can try<br />
to control it, and you can try to guide it, but<br />
it’s like a kid in a way. When customers ask for<br />
a certain type of food or wine or experience,<br />
you try to provide it,” Cerny says. At all<br />
venues, though, virtually everything served<br />
is made in-house, from demi-glace and breads<br />
to cheesecakes and other pastries, in-house.<br />
Overseeing it all is Dan Potter, Executive Chef<br />
of the group of restaurants, who joined the<br />
company in 1998.<br />
A Tale of Two Environments<br />
The Cerny tradition of paying attention to the<br />
details of food and hospitality service started<br />
6,000 kilometers from Cambridge. Jan Cerny<br />
went through formal hospitality training<br />
in the Czech Republic and began his career<br />
tending bar and managing restaurants. In the<br />
family’s last few years in the Czech Republic,<br />
Jan managed a ski resort and hotel in the<br />
Krkonose Mountains. “The family lived at the<br />
hotel,” John Cerny says. “My brother Alec<br />
Blackshop — where Jan Cerny started the tradition of<br />
hospitality in Canada for the Cerny family