Creative HEAD April 2019

In print•online•everywhere!
£4.50 APRIL 2019
STAND WITH ME
Peace, love and beautiful hair

Granted, there’s not a
great amount of joy in
the world right now,
but as a salon owner
you’re in a privileged
position – you have
the power to make
people look and feel
fabulous.
And that’s
a m a z i n g ,
right?
It’s one of the
reasons you do
your job in the
fi rst place?
But don’t you
think you deserve
some
of that feelgood
factor
for yourself,
your team and
your salon?
When you
c h o o s e
P a u l
Mitchell,
you get more than just highperforming
products.
You’re supporting a brand
that believes in giving
back.
Over the years,
Paul Mitchell has
donated millions to
philanthropic causes:
from environmental
protection to children’s
charities and human rights.
But the brand
doesn’t just
give with its
cheque book –
it mobilises the entire Paul
Mitchell community to get volved and lend a in-
hand.
You get to be part
of a culture that’s
helping to change
the world, one
od deed at a time.

STAND
CREATIVE HEAD PARTNERSHIP
FOR
STYLE
Granted, there’s not a great amount of joy in the world right now, but as a salon owner you’re
in a privileged position – you have the power to make people look and feel fabulous. And that’s
amazing, right? it’s One of the reasons you do your job in the first place. But don’t you think
you deserve some of that feel-good factor for yourself, your team and your salon?
When you choose Paul Mitchell, you get more than just high-performing products. You’re
supporting a brand that believes in giving back. Over the years, Paul Mitchell has donated
millions to philanthropic causes, from environmental protection to children’s charities and
human rights. But the brand doesn’t just give with its cheque book – it mobilises the entire
Paul Mitchell community to get involved and lend a hand. You get to be part of a culture that’s
helping to change the world, one good deed at a time.
@salonsuccessuk

Feel
Beautiful.
Live
CREATIVE HEAD PARTNERSHIP
Beautifully
The Paul Mitchell
mission is (and
always will be)
dedicated to making
our world a more
beautiful place.
The brand believes in
doing good for people
and the planet – and
now’s the time to
join in the pay it
forward movement.
#GivingIsMyStyle

MIGHTY
No animal
testing.
Never have,
never will.

BRIGHT
CREATIVE HEAD PARTNERSHIP
Paul Mitchell
Forever Blonde
Dramatic Repair
Lightweight yet powerful, this
multi-tasking corrector spray
specifically targets the needs of
lightened and highlighted hair.
Loaded with KerActive protein,
safflower oleosomes and
macadamia nut oil, it penetrates,
repairs and moisturises weakened
hair, leaving it smoother and
stronger, with gorgeous-looking
results every time.
RRP £8.10 / 25ml
RRP £18.75 / 150ml
@salonsuccessuk

AUL MITCHELL
HEADMASTERS
the irl world Power of – Paul
in
Mitchell
that means
originality,
authenticity,
creativity,
confi dence and
diversity.

CREATIVE HEAD PARTNERSHIP
PAUL MITCHELL
HEADMASTERS
Girl Power – in the world of Paul Mitchell that means originality,
authenticity, creativity, confidence and diversity.
#GivingIsMyStyle

WARRIOR
Did you know?
All Neuro
products are
vegan and
cruelty-free

SHIELD
CREATIVE HEAD PARTNERSHIP
Paul Mitchell Neuro
Protect HeatCTRL
Iron Hairspray
Exclusive HeatCTRL technology
provides advanced protection
from styling irons and thermal
tools, reducing the rate of
heat transfer from roots to
ends. Shine and hold agents
also help resist humidity and
block out frizz.
RRP £9.95 / 50ml
RRP £21.95 / 205ml
@salonsuccessuk

Headmasters creative director,
Andrew Barton, is famous for creating
iconic hair imagery for campaigns
and for sharing his passion for
the hairdressing industry with
audiences around the globe.
The bold statement looks he
fashioned here using Paul Mitchell
haircare are in keeping with
the Headmasters ethos of beautiful,
fashionable, confidence-boosting hair.
Says Andrew: “There’s a great fit for us
at Headmasters with our clients and
Paul Mitchell, and it’s framed by
the two big pillars that the Paul
Mitchell brand is all about
– its ethical values and
its environmentallyfriendly
stance. And
what we’re finding is
that as clients become
more sophisticated in
their tastes, they’re
demanding so much
more from the hair
products they use,
including the need
to tick the boxes
on social and
environmental
concerns.
from us hair
professionals,
they look for
expert advice,
while Paul
Mitchell gives
them what they
need and want
as conscientious
consumers.”

FOR THE
CREATIVE HEAD PARTNERSHIP
GREAT &
THE GOOD
#GivingIsMyStyle

BOOM
You won’t find Paul Mitchell in
supermarkets or chemists, taking
business away from salons. That
is unless there has been diversion
in the supply chain, in which
case we send the shampoo police
round! All Paul Mitchell products
are truly professional.

BODY
CREATIVE HEAD PARTNERSHIP
Paul Mitchell
Invisiblewear
Undone Texture
Hairspray
Delivering instant texture with
natural-looking volume, this
lightweight hairspray adds life
to flat hair for a natural-looking
finish with touchable hold.
RRP £17.75 / 239ml
@salonsuccessuk

“Paul Mitchell is quite personal to me because they were the
first-ever products I touched as a trainee hairdresser – that
was my experience of what hair products felt like and what they
did to hair. Now, as creative director of Headmasters, it’s great
that I can share the creativity and vision of those products with
the Headmasters teams and their wider networks, and also share
the quality and innovation and excitement of Paul Mitchell with
the Headmasters clientele, who want the very best and want
products that are going to transform how their hair looks
and feels. So there’s a big love heart sign here about how it all
connects brilliantly together!”
Andrew Barton, creative director, Headmasters

CREATIVE HEAD PARTNERSHIP
Photography by Alexander Jordan. Hair by Andrew Barton,
creative director at Headmasters, and Gareth Williams
and Jonathan Soons for the Headmasters Creative Team.
Assisted by James Davies, Rachel Todisco, Joe Hill and Nicky
Televantou for Paul Mitchell. Make-up by Tricia Woolston
assisted by Laura Street. Fashion by Holly Coopey @ Frank
#GivingIsMyStyle

PEACE,
LOVE
AND
BEAUTIFUL
HAIR
Giving back has always been part of Paul Mitchell style! Whether that means taking
steps toward sustainability, helping families in need or supporting under-served
kids, It believes in doing good for people, animals and our planet, and it knows its fans
do too. Join the Paul Mitchell global family on social media and share why you think
it’s important to give back or how you’re making a difference with #GivingIsMyStyle.
Paul Mitchell is distributed in the UK exclusively by Salon Success. To discover more about this pioneering,
campaigning brand, call Salon Success on 0845 659 0011 or email us at hello@salon-success.co.uk

CREATIVEHEADMAG.COM
MAGAZINE EDUCATION EVENTS INSPIRATION CREATIVE HEAD STORE COMPETITIONS
EXCLUSIVE
Tribal tartan and pride in diversity – heritage and innovation
collide in Scots Hair Design’s latest collection, ‘Unity’
The Karbon Kyd himself, Wella Colour
Creative Jayson Gray, talks about his
colour apothecary and onstage mishaps,
exclusively at Creative HEAD Video
More than 200 savvy salon owners and
managers made the time for change at
Salon Smart 2019. Catch up with all the
inspiring action now
As a tidal wave of global colour trends
hits UK shores, just how much of its
influence is making its way into the
modern men’s styling?
creativeheadmag.com
creativeheadmagofficial
@creativeheadmag

BaByliss PRO’s Titanium Expression range has been
designed to help you create any look, whether it’s high-fashion
session hair or beautifully finished salon styles.
Find out more @BaBylissPROUK

Editor’s letter
21
66
52
“HERE COMES THE SUN, doo doo doo doo…” Now is the time to
prep for the influx of client illumination, so check out our round-up of
blonde brilliance (page 40). We examine the huge advancements made
in helping clients go and stay blonde – from in-salon bond protectors to
blonding agents that lift higher, cleaner and faster, new techniques to create
modern, fresh-looking blondes and aftercare that keeps lighter shades looking
brighter for longer. Your services, finishes and bottom line should be shining
afterwards! And speaking of shining, we have been dazzled by our 2018 It List
winners, a stellar line-up of young stars whose careers have only gotten brighter
since they were crowned. Find out how from page 52… and then turn to page
30 to check out all the 2019 Most Wanted and It List Award categories, and
get prepping your entries as we have two new awards for your perusual
– Independent Stylist and Best New Boutique Salon – so there’s more
choice than ever. And just think, it might be you in these pages in 2020!
Amanda Nottage
Editor
JOIN US!
What are you doing on Monday
20 May? The answer should
be, attending The Coterie:
In Session! Captivating
conversation will meet live
hair work and this time
the focus is centred fi rmly
on MEN. See pages 34-
35 for more information.
Now, we hope you’re
already busy beavering
away with your Most
Wanted and The It List
2019 entries but if not,
fear not – you still have time!
Bookmark creativeheadmag.
com/mostwanted and
creativeheadmag.com/theitlist
and head to pages 30-33 for
a full list of the categories
available. It’s time to step up
and stand out… good luck!
amanda@alfol.co.uk creativeheadmag.com creativeheadmagofficial
@creativeheadmag

QUEEN OF
THE SCENE
Stand out from the crowd and rule your
retail this season with summer’s hottest
lineup: the ghd festival collection.
#queenofthescene #ghdfestival
LONG LIVE GOOD HAIR DAYS
Available for a limited time only – to become a stockist,
contact your ghd account manager or call 01924 423400.

April
WHAT’S INSIDE
FASHION
Tony Haresign and Allan
Stone keep it slick in Mr. Q
THE IT LIST
Our winners from 2018 share how
their lives have changed since that
victorious night in September
70
52
FREE INSIDE
ON THE COVER
Hair by Andrew Barton,
creative director at
Headmasters, and
Gareth Williams and
Jonathan Soons for the
Headmasters Creative
Team. Photography by
Alexander Jordan
MISTER QUARTERLY
SCENE
American Crew
celebrates its UK
All Star Challenge
finalists and the
seanhanna team
paints the town
EDITOR
AMANDA NOTTAGE
DEPUTY EDITOR
DEBORAH MURTHA
ART DIRECTOR
NICK JABBAL
DIGITAL DESIGNER
EVA VESTMANN
CHIEF SUB EDITOR
ADAM WOOD
STAFF WRITER
ANNA SAMSON
DIGITAL ASSISTANT
KELSEY DRING
ONLINE AND
DIGITAL EDITOR
ALISON ROWLEY
CLASSIFIED EXECUTIVE
DAVID HAMMOND
SPECIAL PROJECTS MANAGER
JENNY BROOKS
SPECIAL PROJECTS DIRECTOR
JOANNA ANDERSEN
PUBLISHER
CATHERINE HANDCOCK
Creative HEAD is printed on
paper certifi ed as being from
sustainable sources using only
vegetable-based inks. Printed
by Buxton Press, Environmental
Printer of the Year and Printing
Company of the Year.
WRITE TO US AT:
Creative HEAD,
21 The Timberyard,
Drysdale Street,
London, N1 6ND
020 7324 7540
enquiries@alfol.co.uk
Creative HEAD is published
10 times a year by Alfol Ltd.
Creative HEAD is a registered
trademark. No part of this
magazine may be reproduced
without prior permission of the
publisher. All information correct
at time of going to press.
Printing by Buxton Press
creativeheadmag.com
creativeheadmagofficial
@creativeheadmag

The edit
THE NEWS AND KNOW-HOW FROM YOUR INDUSTRY
AUDIT OFFICE WARNS
APPRENTICE BUDGET
IS ‘UNSUSTAINABLE’
THE NATIONAL AUDIT Office (NAO) has
warned that the government’s apprenticeship
budget is at risk and is ultimately financially
unsustainable. The news comes after the
average cost of training an apprentice hit
double what was initially predicted. In
December, the Institute for Apprenticeships
and Technical Education estimated that the
apprenticeships budget for England, which is
currently £2.2bn, could be overspent by £500m
in 2018/2019, rising to £1.5bn of overspend in
2021/22.
The report warned that some employers
are replacing professional development
programmes, such as graduate schemes
that they would previously have funded
themselves, with apprenticeships in order
to ‘absorb’ public funding.
It also stated that there are risks the
apprenticeship programme is ‘subsidising
training that would have happened without
government funding’, and concludes that
‘given these concerns, the department has
some way to go before it can demonstrate
that the programme is achieving value for
money and that resources are being used to
best effect’.
Alan Woods OBE, chief executive of training
provider VTCT, said that the availability
of apprenticeships is a key workforce
development opportunity for all employers,
big or small. “An all-out push to maximise
the engagement of all employers – extensive
promotion to young people while still at school
and an easily understandable and consistent
funding programme – will address many of the
issues the NAO raise,” he argued.
Hester Wernert-Rijn
Authentic Beauty
Concept makes
waves in Berlin
HENKEL INVITED MEMBERS of the press from around the world to Berlin
to experience the ethos and inspiration behind Authentic Beauty Concept,
a free-from and vegan haircare range that launches in the UK this summer.
Global creative advocate of Authentic Beauty Concept, Hester Wernert-Rijn
from the Netherlands, was on hand to style models, alongside New Yorkbased
celebrity stylist Linda Shalabi. Said Rubaii, founder of Said Rubaii
Hairstyling in Berlin, also shared insight into authentic Berlin style and how
this is reflected in his salon. As part of the authentic beauty movement, there
was also the opportunity to learn more about the Authentic Beauty Concept
Momento, an in-salon treatment that goes beyond a hair wash to offer a
mindful salon experience, incorporating Bluetooth headphones with a choice
of playlists and a gel eye mask for total relaxation.
Headlining
this summer is
the limited edition
Festival Collection from ghd,
featuring a kaleidoscope of
colours that energises the Platinum+
and Gold stylers and the Air hairdryer
with a rainbow vibe.
ghdhair.com
Said Rubaii
14

SKP REVEALS YOUNG
ARTISTIC TEAM
SCHWARZKOPF PROFESSIONAL HAS announced
the members of the Young Artistic Team for 2019/20.
The squad consists of (pictured above, clockwise from
left): Molly Drummond (Hooker & Young, Ponteland),
Mitchell Gough (Hensmans, Northampton), Olivia
Bullivant (En Route, Wakefield), Sophie Perfect
(Options, Chelmsford), Justine Weir (Tweedie &
Marshall, Falkirk), and Stephanie Stevens (Daniel
Granger, Northampton). They’ve started the year with a
three-day team-building workshop at Billi Currie salon.
KH Hair mental
health drive
East Midlands-based salon chain
KH Hair is rolling out mental health
training across its 21 salons and
academy, with the aim of raising
awareness and challenging stigma
around mental health. Beginning
with a half-day introductory course
developed by Mental Health First
Aid England and delivered by
St John Ambulance, the scheme
aims to teach salon owners how to
spot signs of distress and how to
effectively start that first supportive
conversation. “Mental health
issues aren’t just prevalent among
the young, so this initiative will
hopefully help to break down any
barriers for anyone, regardless of
age, who needs our help,” said joint
managing director Darren Messias.
£378.51
is the average amount women
spent on haircuts last year,
according to Statista’s annual
report on the cosmetics and
personal care industry. Colour
(£284.70), blow-drys (£267.22)
and styling (£258.50) followed,
while men spent an average
£329.77 on haircuts last year.
#CHedit
MY month
AHEAD
What April has
in store for...
GARY TAYLOR
EDWARD & CO.
I’ll be getting ready for (and
recovering from) our salon’s
big party on 6 April! This
year the Taylor family is
celebrating being in business
for 100 years, thanks to five
generations of hairdressers.
We reckon
we’ve delivered
more than
three million
cuts, not bad
for a family
business!
SARA HOLMES
STUART HOLMES SALON
I’m still buzzing from Salon
Smart, where I took part in
A Great Debate: Time for a
Change. It was wonderful to
share such an incredible event
with inspirational leaders in
our industry. Soon Easter will
be upon us, which for us as
a salon is the
second busiest
period after
Christmas, so
we are ready
and waiting for
the rush!
Dizziak
Afro hair
searches up
ONLINE CONSUMER SEARCHES for salons catering for
Afro hair increased by 90 per cent in the UK between June
2017 and June 2018, illustrating the business potential
for salons to increase their income by ensuring they offer
inclusive hair services and care products for all hair types.
The report, Diversifying Hair Care by Pretty Analytics and
using Google Trends, also found a 51 per cent rise in the
number of videos online focused on the topic of black
natural haircare.
MOVERS AND SHAKERS
Zoë Irwin has joined
John Frieda Salons as
creative director.
Affinage has revealed
its new Colour Rebels
Artistic Team for 2019/20.
They are: Georgia Bell,
Aimee Goodwin, Victoria
Lee, Nicki Mehta, Terri
Nadin, Abbie Salmon
and Adam Thomas.
Dafydd Thomas has
been promoted to the
role of global head of
education at ghd.
CREATIVE HEAD
15

Spirit Lights from ASP
Affinage Salon Professional
lightens up to three levels,
while four pigments deliver
bespoke tones. It’s available
in introductory kits, too!
IN-SALON SERVICE
01794 527111
asphair.com
ALFAPARF
Milano’s The Hair
Supporters is a
luxury therapy
line containing
biomimetic
quaternized
keratin that can
be used during
colour, bleach
and straightening
services for
major results.
IN-SALON SERVICE
+353 45 856490
alfaparfmilano.com
Take au naturel to new heights with JOICO’s LumiShine
Natural Warm series of nude glow shades that are universally
flattering and radiant – available in permanent and demipermanent
crème, and demi-permanent liquid color.
IN-SALON SERVICE
0845 071 2326
joico-lumishine.com
Irresistible services consumers will want
to snap up, selected by the Layered team
Beauty sleep for hair, but in a bottle! New
Nutritive 8H Magic Night Serum from Kérastase
is designed to be used just before bed, leaving a
weightless finish that feels soft in the morning.
While your clients are snoozing, this
busy bee’s nutrients get the chance to
penetrate hair fully and replace the
moisture stripped away during the
day by styling and environmental
nasties. Another brilliant example
of inspiration from the world of
skincare, this serum does all the
hard work while clients catch their
Zzzs – we think it will be just as
hardworking for your retail sales!
RRP £36
0845 6000122
kerastase.co.uk
Pureology’s Hydrate line is a
stone-cold classic, but some
might find it a little heavy.
Fine-haired clients rejoice –
there’s now Hydrate Sheer
shampoo and conditioner!
RRP FROM £19.95
0800 0854956
pureology.com
L’Oréal Professionnel
Serioxyl Denser
Hair Treatment
works to target hair
thinning with hero
ingredients such
as Stemoxydine
to help wake up
dormant follicles.
RRP £35
0800 0304034
lorealprofessionnel.co.uk
Perfect for colour-treated hair,
the Tea Tree Special Color duo
includes rooibos tea botanicals
to help prevent fading.
RRP FROM £6.50
0845 6590011
salon-success.co.uk
This is genius – Paper Not Foil
is made from ground-down
industrial waste from
the construction industry,
recycled and turned into paper
for colour services. Use it in
the same way as any foil or
meche product!
SALON PRICE FROM £36
01283 584812
papernotfoil.co.uk
Goldwell’s Topchic and
Colorance lines welcome new
@ELUMENATED METALLIC
shades! Additions include
Cool Bronze, Cool Copper
and Steel Violet – or make
a statement with @Pure
Pigments Cool Violet.
IN-SALON SERVICE
0330 1239530
goldwell.co.uk
16
CREATIVE HEAD

#CHedit
STOCK
OPTIONS
OUR PICK OF THE LAUNCHES TO STACK ON SHELVES,
ADD TO MENUS AND SHARE WITH YOUR STYLISTS
Ready to shake things up? Good, because ANTI
has hit the UK. Encapsulating the zeitgeist of
individuality, it’s all about empowering your clients
to celebrate and perfect their unique identity. Forget
labels and rules, forget ‘this should be used for
these types and not those’, forget gender boundaries
and boxes. The latest venture of hairdressing
entrepreneur Francesco Ruggerino, and under the
creative direction of session icon Nick Irwin, the
sleek styling of the capsule collection is inspired by
the edgy, streetwise vibe of New York City. The 10
products cover everything from shampoo to
styling spray, and are power-packed with natural
ingredients which replace the need for silicones.
RRP FROM £28
anticollective.com
One to watch...
ELECTRIC PROFESSIONAL
Electric Professional might not be new, but it’s certainly
one of the most innovative brands around. Each formula is
handcrafted by founder Mark Woolley working with a cosmetic
chemist, with each product taking at least 18 months to
develop. All ingredients are sourced in the UK, which is one of
the reasons he’s bought Falmer Court in East Sussex, where
he’s building a lab and will be growing ingredients for his range.
Mark uses his Art Team, along with session hairdressers and
platform artists globally in extensive testing stages, as well as
his own Electric salon staff.
“I liken us to the 'craft brewer’ of the professional haircare
market,” he explains, stressing that the Electric message is
one of innovation and independence. “We off er the stylist
the chance to be part of something, off ering our education
seminars and events, as well as having something that looks
great in the salon, and has a real story.”
Right now, he’s building a strong community of
hairdressers, recently supporting Johnnie Sapong at
London Fashion Week Men’s, and has an eye on a
bigger digital community of ‘Electric-endorsed Artists,’
where stylists can buy products at a special price
to use on shoots or in the salon, giving them some
margin to retail to their clients. This is with an eye on
the increasing number of hairdressers now working as
independents. Electric Professional is currently in about 60 UK
salons, and close to 200 US salons. “We aim to keep the brand
exclusive with hand-picked salons being invited,” explains
Mark. He’s also committed to supporting salon owners, and
keeps the brand away from discount websites and Amazon.
Its exclusive partnership with Feelunique means the site is
contracted to sell the products only at full price.
Electric might be compact, but Mark is ambitious. New is the
C1 English Rose Serum, and coming soon is the C6 Cloudburst
evaporating mousse and the C8 Invisible Volume Chalk
volume powder. And this summer will also see a collaboration
with British artists on the launch of aluminium shampoo and
conditioner bottles that clients can refi ll back at the salon.
ROSE SERUM RRP £17.50
01273 775397
CREATIVE HEAD
17

Alexis and David Thurston
18
CREATIVE HEAD

THE BIG IDEA
PULP RIOT
“RISK AVERSE” is not a term you would use to describe Alexis and
David Thurston. In 2010 they decided to launch the Butterfly Loft
salon in Los Angeles when they were just good friends, but it wasn’t
long before they realised there was something more. A marriage in
the salon was followed by a brainchild – a vivid hair colour range
called Pulp Riot – that went from a dream to 6,000 US salons in just
13 months. And just under two years on from launch it was snapped
up by L’Oréal – quite the roller coaster.
The couple has a preternatural understanding of the modern
colourist and consumer, illustrated by the products they’ve
developed and the way they’ve engaged their audience. Pulp Riot’s
fun, illustrative packaging and line-up of vivid tones and metallicedged
toners has absolutely captured the zeitgeist – especially as it’s
also vegan, gluten- and cruelty-free. The fact that hairdressers have
lovingly developed this range gives it a visible edge, as does the fact
it’s conditioner-based and has a consistency that makes it a dream
to work with. “For years hair colour has been uninspiring – seen as
a technical product that’s supposed to be hidden away,” says David.
“We thought, let’s make a product line that makes stylists feel like
artists, and a product that you can put out so people can see.”
But for fans of vivids, it’s the fade that has them all a-flutter.
“We’re one of the few product brands that routinely post pictures of
faded hair,” says David proudly. “We set out to create a product that
faded better, and we’ve been able to nail that.”
Like many modern, savvy brands, Pulp Riot has seen the
importance of social media from the beginning, getting across
that they’re powered by people using Pulp Riot as a ‘microphone’,
sharing its social media space to platform artists and grow the
community. “It’s zero degrees of separation between the people
creating the product and the people using it,” explains Alexis. “It’s
a level of authenticity and we’re very transparent with everything –
no secrets, no hidden agenda. People like that.”
And now it’s landed in the UK, available from Salons Direct and
Alan Howard. You can grab toners and semi-permanent colours
now, while permanent colours will follow in the autumn, followed
by aftercare next year. David and Alexis will be touring the UK
with members of their Riot Squad this summer and the plan is to
establish a UK Squad, too.
For anyone who’s worried the vivid colour trend is just a fad,
Alexis has this to say: “It’s going to become more mainstream. You
don’t see a lot of doctors or lawyers with creative colours, but just as
we’ve seen with tattoos, it’s a cultural shift that will continue.”
Oh, and if you’re wondering about the name, it’s simple
mathematics. In column one, David wrote variations of words
pertaining to what was inside the tube. In column two, words
that described the disruptive impact they wanted to make on the
industry. The bottom of column one was ‘pulp’; ‘riot’ was at the top
of column two. Bingo! We think it’s way better than Goo Havoc...
CREATIVE HEAD 19

WHY DID YOU WANT TO BECOME
A HAIRDRESSER?
I’m people person! I have
a passion for art and I
love being creative and
pushing myself to do crazy
things. Hairdressing is an
amazing career with endless
opportunities to grow. I have
learnt a lot about hair, but also
clients, colleagues and even
myself! I love doing hair and
from the day I started I’ve
always tried to push myself to
be the best I can be.
MITCHELL GOUGH
AGE: 22
SALON: HENSMANS, NORTHAMPTON
WHAT HAVE BEEN YOUR HIGHLIGHTS SO FAR?
Assisting in teams at top designers at London Fashion Week,
which gave me a huge insight into the creative side of the industry.
Getting onto the Schwarzkopf Professional Young Artistic Team was
incredible and I really can’t wait to get stuck in!
WHERE DO YOU SEE YOURSELF IN 10 YEARS’ TIME?
I would love to be working alongside top industry experts, pushing
education in hairdressing and sharing knowledge. I’d also love to be
involved with session work, on shoots and at Fashion Week! I love
how diverse hairdressing is; the opportunities are endless.
WHAT WOULD BE YOUR DREAM HAIRDRESSING GIG?
To work on global shoots, marketing campaigns or adverts for big brands, working
alongside top hairdressers like Tyler Johnston and Lesley Jennison to create exciting
new looks. I would love to be involved with the Essential Looks collection from
Schwarzkopf Professional, and I dream of working with legends like Akin Konizi.
20

#CHedit
Inside
story
GATSBY & MILLER AMERSHAM
It’s a daunting but thrilling feeling to be given an entirely blank canvas with
which to devise a new salon – so Gatsby & Miller in Amersham worked
with Reis Design to build a free-fl owing environment where each area
was delineated by colours, textures and the materials used. Identifying
diff erent parts of the salon as either ‘energy areas’ or ‘relaxation spaces’
helped, and from the moment clients walk into the salon there’s no
physical barrier, with the reception desk deliberately set back. High ceilings
and large glass windows create an easy vibe, which continues into the
gender-neutral grooming zone. In the relaxation areas – which include the
beauty treatment areas and the backwash – privacy is created with partial
screening and a lowered ceiling, while low lighting adds to the sense to
intimacy. This salon space retains an industrial feel that’s offset with muted
colour tones and rose gold fi nishes. “The team love it and the feedback
from clients has been fabulous,” beams salon manager Dawn Montgomery.
HOT BUYS
HOLD ME
The Green Hug styling chair from
Maletti Giovannoni Design is an
embrace of plump vinyl padding
and varnished veneered plywood,
creating a smart yet friendly seat
that suits all salons.
£695 (usually £1,090)
020 3207 2032
maletti.co.uk
now open
THE COTERIE SALON, ST. AUSTELL
Cornwall has a new hair hub to enjoy, with
a modern yet welcoming feel with plenty of
light and beautiful finishing touches.
CREATIVE HEAD 21

THE BUSINESS EDIT
MICHAEL
THOMPSON
ADVANCED PRO SALON
WHAT MAKES ADVANCED
PRO SALON COLOURCODE
SO INNOVATIVE?
ColourCode was born from
a simple concept – creating
products your hair would
choose – and focusing on
both stylist and client in
equal measure. It offers
professional permanent
or demi-permanent dual
colour performance across
117 shades with exceptional
coverage, and every shade
is infused and enriched with
ProPlex technology, argan oil
and vitamins B5, C and E.
WHY SHOULD SALONS LOOK
AGAIN AT THEIR COLOUR?
Producing a great range of
shades is no longer enough;
post-colour treatments
merely paper over the cracks.
Advanced Pro Salon is firmly
focused on minimising and
eradicating the damage
in the first place, which
is underpinned by a full
ProPlex and argan oil-infused
professional pre-lightener
range. Even our developers
are enriched with argan oil!
WHAT PLANS DO YOU HAVE
ON THE HORIZON?
The ColourCode range
is available now and we
have new shades already
in development to expand
that range, including
extreme colours. Advanced
Pro Salon is supported by
highly-experienced creative
and technical teams with
decades of high-level salon
experience, who are on hand
to expertly guide a salon.
HAS FRANCHISING
GOT A FRESH FUTURE?
CELEBRITY HAIRDRESSER ANDREW
BARTON has recently revealed that
following his new role as creative director at
national salon chain Headmasters, he has
become a franchisee, taking on the group’s
Mayfair salon (see below). Having been both
a key part of the Toni&Guy and Saks teams
earlier in his career, Andrew also had his own
brand salon before closing in 2015.
Such a big name committing to a franchise
future has shone the spotlight again on what
franchising can bring – both as a franchisee
and as a salon brand that might want to go
down that path. “You have an entire network
dedicated to helping you and your business
– accountancy, sales monitoring, wages,
training, lease negotiations, advertising and
PR is supported,” explains Darren Messias,
joint managing director of KH Hair Group.
But, remember, this comes with a royalties
cost and you’ll need to abide by the rules
of the franchise company and adhere to
its brand values. “Issues can arise when a
franchisee doesn’t agree with one of these
rules or values, so communication from the
very beginning is a key factor,” he adds.
“To get the best out of owning a franchise
you really have to embrace the brand,” says
Barry Jarega, head of business development
at Saks. “We have done extensive research
and we know our target market, so it makes
sense for new franchisees to take advantage
ANDREW BARTON
HEADMASTERS MAYFAIR
of the knowledge and resources available.”
HOB Salons has 25 salons, 10 of which are
franchises launched by six different owners.
Director Clive Collins believes it’s vital for a
new franchisee to keep track of every bit of
money, a common pitfall. “They can spend
too much on day-to-day expenses without
realising the impact on their cashflow – all
these minor expenditures build up,” he says.
“Suddenly they realise they can’t pay their
wage or VAT bill and the business begins to
spiral in a way that’s hard to rectify.”
How can this pitfall be avoided? Be
obsessive! “Check your bank statements
constantly and keep a running total on where
every penny is being spent,” warns Clive.
“Ensure you can cover the essentials with a
buffer to cover anything unexpected.”
And what if you’re a salon owner thinking
about letting others have a slice of the
action? The most difficult part is finding
balance in relinquishing some control, while
remaining true to what you’ve built. “Do you
have the brand and infrastructure to support
future franchisees and make sure they feel
that they are getting value for the royalties
they pay?” asks Darren. “When it’s your
business, any decision you make is yours
alone. However, when you have franchisees
who may not agree with your views or
decisions for the brand, you have to be
prepared to listen and perhaps compromise.”
Every business faces challenges, but working with a large
group offers great expertise and a framework of business skills
to address those challenges. At Headmasters we have a great brand
name with a great reputation, as well as a network of support tools.
Any business comes with huge responsibility, especially the future of
the team, their careers and their income. Attracting clients is a constant drive for a salon
owner, providing staff with clients and effectively managing profit and loss. I speak to
many independent salon owners who feel alone. They’re often one of the busiest stylists
behind the chair, too, and can find it frustrating to find the time and expertise to manage.
Being a franchisee you get so much of this support. A good starting point is to list what the
individual’s expectations are from the franchisor and see how the brand can deliver. I’ve
learnt that this collective approach to building a business is a winning formula.
22
CREATIVE HEAD

Don’t try to make
it on your own …
WE’LL MAKE IT SO MUCH
BETTER TOGETHER!
JOIN US TODAY TO GET THESE FANTASTIC
BENEFITS:
Free everyday business and HR advice from our
friendly membership team.
Free 24/7 employment and commercial legal
lifeline.
Free employment contracts & apprentice
agreements.
Free chair/room renting contracts.
Free in-depth guides and fact sheets on every
aspect of running your business.
£
Valuable discounts on business essentials
including insurance, workshops and health &
safety.
Join
before 30 April
and quote
CHA25 to get
£25 off your
membership
fee
Join now for less than 75p a day
Call us on: 01234 831965 or
email us: enquiries@nhf.info
www.nhf.info/benefits

#BusinessEdit
KEN’S CLINIC
GOT A BUSINESS HEADACHE? LET KEN WEST, DIRECTOR OF BUSINESS
EXPERTS 3•6•5, OFFER A PERSONAL PRESCRIPTION
KEN’S DIAGNOSIS
This is a great question Adam, but one that will lead me
to ask you some questions at the end.
First, you must remember that the clients that used to
be served by this team member are actually clients of your
salon and not the team member. At least that is how they
should feel. Often salons forget the importance of building
a whole team relationship with a client and leave the
relationship building to a stylist.
It’s quite common that other team members fail to
engage with or get to know all clients, too. If they did get
to know them, then when a stylist left clients would feel
comfortable transferring to another one within the salon
environment that they know, love and feel comfortable in.
Now, that might sound like shutting the
stable door after the ‘horse’ has bolted,
but looking again at your salon culture
might prevent you losing more ‘horses’
in the future.
Referring to my earlier point, the
client belongs to your salon and in
these days of GDPR this is a really
important issue. If the team
member has taken any
contact information then this
could be in breach of GDPR
regulations and a letter from
your solicitor needs to be sent
to the stylist to that effect.
You are responsible for the
security of client data and
therefore your security could
be questioned if they were to
What are the best
strategies to protect
your business when
a senior member
of staff opens a
salon in direct
competition
with you?
ADAM GATES,
GORGEOUS HAIRDRESSING,
BERKHAMSTED
contact your clients. Hopefully all of your team contracts
include clauses regarding GDPR and all of your staff are
aware of this.
Now, back to the clients that you’re concerned about
losing. It’s important to note that they won’t all go – some
will and they will be the ones that, sadly, you will focus on,
because that hurts. The reality is that many won’t leave and
you should love them for it. Reassure them that life will
continue and that all of your team value them and will take
care of them in the future.
As soon as anyone leaves, be proactive. Use every means
possible to engage with the clients that you’re at risk of
losing before they even consider going elsewhere – mail,
email, Facebook, Twitter! Offer them added value or
incentives to stay with you. I’m not a fan of discounts but
I am, however, a big fan of added value.
Be creative, and think outside the box. Offer invitationonly
events to meet your remaining team members while
you share seasonal tips and advice or share fashion trends
and ideas for the future. Excite and intrigue them.
Now the questions, Adam. Apart from relocation or a
change in family circumstances, most people leave a job
because they have been given an ‘opportunity’ elsewhere.
Opportunities come in many forms and could be a
financial reward, promotion, education, extra responsibility
or creative growth. These are all areas that are the
responsibility of a forward-thinking salon owner.
At 3•6•5 we coach salons to find out what people want
and help them to achieve it. Ask yourself these two
questions whenever you lose a quality team member. What
opportunity are they leaving for? Could you have created a
similar opportunity and if not, why not? Food for thought…
DO YOU HAVE A BUSINESS HEADACHE YOU’D LIKE KEN TO HELP WITH?
Email him directly on KenW@365Hair.com or tweet us at @creativeheadmag
24
CREATIVE HEAD

3·6·5 Successful
Business Coaching
for Salons
Are you a
Salon Owner?
Finding it harder and harder
to pull in new clients and recruit
the right team?
In times of change it is important to plan ahead .
With many uncertainties facing the industry and
economy in 2019, 3·6·5 can help to point you in
the right direction.
3·6·5 can provide your salon with successful
business coaching to help promote a
long-term, sustainable future for
your business .
Call us on: 0845 659 0015
www.365SalonEducation.com
Find us: @365SalonEducation

#BusinessEdit
GET ALLERGY
WEEK-READY
“ALLERGY AWARENESS WEEK 2019
is fast approaching and we’re taking the
opportunity to remind salon owners of the
importance of allergy alert testing,” said
NHF/NBF quality and standards director,
Caroline Larissey. “It’s vital to check if
your clients are allergic to hair colour
or treatment products or have any skin
sensitivities,” said Caroline. “You’ll want
to keep your clients safe and also make
sure your insurance will cover you should
something go wrong.”
Hair salons can use the NHF/NBF toolkit
for allergy alert testing for hair colour,
available from nhf.info/shop. It’s free to
Members with £10 P&P. The NHF/NBF has
also developed a toolkit for allergy alert
tests and skin sensitivity tests specifically
for use in beauty salons which will be
available shortly. Allergy Awareness Week
2019 will be held from 29 April to 3 May.
PAY SLIPS REMINDER
MAKE SURE YOUR payslips comply with a new
law that will come into force on 6 April 2019, NHF/
NBF chief executive Hilary Hall has warned. She
explained: “New rules mean all employees’ and
workers’ payslips must now be itemised and
include clear information including gross salary,
deductions, and net pay. The total number of
hours worked must also be included where the
individual’s pay varies according to hours worked.”
Payslips must also clearly state more detailed
information such as payment methods (for
example, part-cash, part-BACS) or different
amounts paid for certain types of work or hours.
Said Hilary: “The new-style payslips will make it
easier to spot and prosecute businesses who
pay below the National Minimum Wage, so it’s
important for employers to get this right.”
PENSION CONTRIBUTIONS
SET TO RISE THIS MONTH
THE MINIMUM CONTRIBUTIONS you and your staff must pay into your
workplace pension scheme is set to increase from 6 April 2019.
“The new minimum amount required by law will go up from 5 per cent to
8 per cent,” explained NHF/NBF director, Tina Beaumont-Goddard. “The
minimum amount the employer is required to contribute is 3 per cent, which
makes the employee’s minimum contribution 5 per cent.”
However, employers can choose to pay more than the minimum
contribution and reduce the amount their staff need to pay to make up the
total to 8 per cent.
“You must automatically enrol certain employees in your workplace
pension scheme,” added Tina. “Employees can opt out, but the law says you
must re-enrol them every three years and tell The Pensions Regulator that
you have done so.”
Find out more at nhf.info/workplacepensions
Costs for older apprentices
to be cut by 50 per cent
THE 10 PER CENT FEE that small businesses pay when they take on apprentices
aged 19 or over will halve from 1 April 2019. The announcement by Chancellor of the
Exchequer Philip Hammond, means that the cash contribution required from employers
will fall to £350 for new starters from this month, having previously been reduced from
£900 to £700 in January.
“We’re delighted that our campaign to reduce the cost of apprenticeships for small
business employers has been successful,” said Hilary Hall, NHF and NBF chief executive.
“Although the reductions were announced in the Autumn Budget, no start date was
given, leading some employers to delay apprenticeship starts. Many salons are put off
from employing older apprentices, so this reduction is good news, but of course there are
still the higher minimum wage costs to pay for anyone aged 19 or over once they have
completed the first year of their apprenticeship.”
26 CREATIVE HEAD

All prices listed are exclusive of VAT
BUSINESS BUILDER
With occasions season just around
the corner, there’s no better
time to stock up on your
Paul Mitchell care and
styling ranges. When
purchasing online,
customers can
take advantage
of our 3 for 2
offer and also
receive a free
75ml Tea Tree
shampoo!
Terms and
conditions apply,
contact Salon
Services for more
information.
THE SERVICE STATION
In association with
Innovative launches, expert advice and business
boosting ideas – drop in and feel the buzz!
ON RIGHT NOW
Now is the perfect time to nurture your
natural beauty with this season’s must-haves.
Throughout April both retail and trade
customers at Salon Services will receive a
free Beauty Bag full of the latest goodies
when spending £50 or more on beauty
products, both online and in-store.
TEACH
ME!
Help your clients get
those yearned-for
long locks in time for
summer with the
Sally Micro-Loop
& Micro-Ring
Hair Extensions
course (£120 exc.
VAT). Great for
expanding your
skillset, this
in-depth course
will teach you all
about the art of
extensions – a
booming business.
WELL-GROOMED
BUYS FOR THE BOYS AT
The Andis and Mike Taylor Salon Services Fade
& Blades course (£150 exc. VAT) is ideal for those
who want to take their barbering skills to the next
level. It teaches students how to create some of
the most sought-after hair and beard styles.
#BusinessEdit
ASK ME
ANYTHING
THERE ARE EXPERTS INSIDE
EVERY BRANCH OF SALON
SERVICES WITH KNOWLEDGE
TO SHARE, SO JUST ASK!
Simone Channe
Store manager at Sally
Salon Services Wembley
Q: With wedding season
around the corner, what
can I do to make sure
it’s a lucrative time for
my business?
A: “First, prioritise
training. From courses
such as Training Solutions’
Wedding Hair Bliss
Bridal & Occasion course
(£95 exc. VAT), to Salon
System’s Marvelash
Eyelash Extension course
(£160 exc. VAT), there are
countless options when
it comes to staying on
top of the latest trends
and techniques. Also,
remember that as well as
educating yourself and
your staff, you should
educate your customers,
too. This can be easily
done when they’re in
your chair. And don’t
forget to share specific
product recommendations!
I particularly love the
Olaplex products to
maintain hair bonds, and
Moroccanoil products for
keeping hair moisturised
and shimmery during the
hot summer months.”
FOR ADVICE ON HOW TO BUILD YOUR BUSINESS, CALL 0330 1231907 OR VISIT SALON-SERVICES.COM
CREATIVE HEAD 27

GLOW
GETTER
TAKE NATURAL HAIR UP A NOTCH WITH JOICO’S NEW
LUMISHINE NATURAL WARM NUDE GLOW SHADES
NATURAL AND NEUTRAL COLOUR palettes are by no means
boring – one look at the soaring popularity of natural and ‘nomake-up
make-up’ on social media can prove that. According
to Infl uenster, in the past 12 months tinted moisturiser reviews
increased by a whopping 408 per cent. It’s all about that
eff ortlessly glamorous look – minimum effort for maximum impact.
So, while Instagram might continue to buzz about pretty pastels
and unicorn-bright hair colours, the majority of your clients are
looking for next-level natural luxe looks. They trust you to deliver
that radiant, holiday glow that enhances their natural beauty.
With a palette of shades that takes natural to new heights,
the LumiShine Natural Warm Nude Glow shades from JOICO
blend warmth and luminous nude tones. From sandy sable to
beachy bronze, these universally fl attering shades are available in
permanent crème, demi-permanent crème and demi-permanent
liquid formats for glowing, gorgeous hair.
I love the new JOICO
LumiShine Natural Warm
Nude Glow shades
because they are
the perfect blend
of neutral and golden
shades to enhance
any skin tone and
bring out natural
luminosity!
LARISA LOVE,
JOICO BRAND
AMBASSADOR
LIT FROM WITHIN
With JOICO’s unique bond-building ArgiPlex
technology, you can deliver gorgeously
shiny colour without sacrifi cing healthy
hair. Using a blend of arginine – a
naturally occurring amino acid crucial to
hair strength – and JOICO’s patented
conditioning complex, the hair shaft is
surrounded and protected, locking in moisture
and shine. Sealing the deal is the Quadramine
Complex, JOICO’s exclusive blend of low-molecular proteins
that help to maximise reconstruction from cuticle to cortex.
SPOILT FOR CHOICE
Choose from 13 glow-giving shades across three formulations
to enhance and lift your clients’ hair – and mood. From golden,
sandy shades to rich brunettes and barely-there bronze, there’s
something to tempt even the most change-averse client.
DELIVERS
UP TO 2X
SHINE*
100%
REPLENISHED
AND
STRENGTHENED
HAIR***
NOURISHING
PROTECTION THAT
SEALS IN MOISTURE,
SOFTNESS AND
SHINE FOR UP TO
30 SHAMPOOS**
OFFERS
100% GREY
COVERAGE WITH
PERMANENT CRÈME
COLOUR, AND OPTIMAL
VISCOSITY FOR BOWL
AND BRUSH OR BOTTLE
APPLICATION – YOU
DECIDE!

CREATIVE HEAD ADVERTORIAL
PERMANENT CRÈME
perfect for 100 per cent
grey coverage, reduced
breakage and up to twice
the shine
TOP
TIP!
DEMI-PERMANENT CRÈME
cover and blend greys or create depth and
dimension with lowlighting and shadow-root
DEMI-PERMANENT
LIQUID
refresh, gloss and
tone in a fl ash while
blending away greys
Pair your LumiShine Natural Warm Nude Glow shades with JOICO’s game-changing Defy Damage Pro
Series for next-level colour saturation. Prep hair with Pro Series 1, a bond-protecting colour optimising
spray which shields hair from damage while improving colour deposit and lift. Apply your formula of
choice, shampoo out and then lock in that incredible shine with Pro Series 2 at the backwash. The
result? Guaranteed healthier-looking hair after each LumiShine colour service. Now, go get that glow!
*Versus untreated damaged hair **When followed with JOICO K-Pak Color Therapy Shampoo and Conditioner ***Versus hair color without AriPlex
CREATIVE HEAD
SHOW YOUR CLIENT’S GLOW WITH JOICO LUMISHINE NATURAL WARM NUDE GLOW SERIES –
FOR MORE INFORMATION, CALL 0845 071 2326 OR VISIT JOICO-LUMISHINE.COM
@joicoeurope #hairfeels
49

2019
SALON
SESSION
STARS
CREATIVE HEAD’S MOST WANTED AWARDS
CELEBRATE AWESOME TALENT AND EXCELLENCE
IN ALL AREAS OF HAIRDRESSING. THE 2019
COMPETITION IS NOW OPEN – WOULD THE STARS
OF SALON AND SESSION PLEASE STAND UP?

NEW!
ALL CATEGORIES NOW OPEN TO THE UK AND IRELAND
CATEGORY SPONSOR
CATEGORY SPONSOR
INDIVIDUAL AWARDS
NEW!
INDEPENDENT STYLIST
For a stylist looking after clients at a salon while busy building ‘Brand Me’
MALE GROOMING SPECIALIST
For a salon or session hairdresser demonstrating standout work in men’s hair
CREATIVE TALENT
For a creative director or senior stylist with exceptional artistic skill and commercial expertise
BUSINESS THINKER
For a salon owner or director who has built an outstanding salon business
COLOUR EXPERT
For a colour director or senior colourist with exceptional technical skill and commercial expertise
HAIR TREND
For the best on-trend image of the year
AWARD FOR INNOVATION
Rewarding an original hairdressing initiative that has proved a success for the salon business or the industry at large
SESSION STYLIST
For the most exciting hairdresser working in fashion (by nomination only)
HAIR ICON
For the most inspirational hairdresser of 2019 (by nomination only)
TEAM AWARDS
NEW! BEST NEW BOUTIQUE SALON
For a new small salon with a unique sense of style
BEST SALON TEAM
For salon teamwork at its best
BEST LOCAL SALON
For a salon that best serves its local community
BEST NEW SALON
For a new or revamped salon that turns heads
BEST SALON EXPERIENCE
For a salon that delivers top customer service
event
COMPETITION CLOSES MONDAY 13 MAY
ENTRY FORMS CREATIVEHEADMAG.COM/MOSTWANTED
FOLLOW THE ACTION @CREATIVEHEADMAG #MWIT19
QUESTIONS? CALL +44 (0)1434 610940 OR EMAIL EVENTS@ALFOL.CO.UK

CREATIVE HEAD’S SEARCH FOR THE MOST EXCITING NEW UK
AND IRISH HAIRDRESSING STARS IS ON. DO YOU HAVE IT?

WORK HARD.
DREAM BIG.
GET NOTICED!
FOR HAIRDRESSERS AGED 30 OR UNDER
ALL CATEGORIES NOW OPEN TO THE UK AND IRELAND!
THE RISING STAR
For a young salon assistant who’s enthusiastic, hardworking
and fast improving – a new team star!
TO BE NOMINATED BY THE SALON OWNER OR MANAGER
THE FASHIONISTA
For a young stylist making a mark in session circles
THE ENTREPRENEUR
For a young salon owner who has created an exciting and successful business
THE VISIONARY
For a young stylist or technician who is pushing creative boundaries
THE IT GUY/GIRL
Two trophies – one for a guy, one for a girl – awarded to a young hairdressing
professional excelling in multiple areas of their work and destined for greatness
event
COMPETITION CLOSES MONDAY 20 MAY
ENTRY FORMS CREATIVEHEADMAG.COM/THEITLIST
FOLLOW THE ACTION @CREATIVEHEADMAG #MWIT19
QUESTIONS? CALL +44 (0)1434 610940 OR EMAIL EVENTS@ALFOL.CO.UK

IN SESSION
MEN
MONDAY 20 MAY 2019
7PM UNTIL 10PM, LONDON
WORKING LIVE ON SET AND IN CONVERSATION WITH LEE KYNASTON,
STYLE & GROOMING JOURNALIST FOR THE TELEGRAPH & MR PORTER
JODY TAYLOR
DYNAMIC. TECHNICAL. FORWARDTHINKING.
MALE GROOMING SPECIALIST.

LIAM CAMPBELL
CREATIVE. SKILLED. ENTHUSIAST.
THE BARBER.
CLUB
creativeheadmag.com/club
SINGLE TICKET £30
CLUB MEMBERS PAY JUST £20!
BUY ONLINE creativeheadmag.com/thecoterie
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SEE
PAGE 51

ANTI
ordinary
SO MANY BRANDS TREAD THE SAME PATH,
BUT ANTI IS BREAKING NEW GROUND
36 CREATIVE HEAD

ANTI ordinary.
ANTI judgement.
ANTI limitation.
BORN FROM THE NEED for profound change in our industry, ANTI is a new
haircare range with a radical vision. It’s a brand that does not label or dictate
but revels in individuality while bringing people together in consciousness.
Its bold capsule collection was created to support salon owners, celebrate
hairdressers and empower consumers to champion their unique identity, that
they are anything but ordinary.
Founded by hairdressing entrepreneur Francesco Ruggerino, the ANTI
collective is inspired by the street culture and progressive attitude of New York
City. “ANTI is a brand that brings people together, stands strong with a moral
compass and initiates positive change in the industry and the world,” he says.
For such a boundary-pushing brand, collaborating with equally creative
artists is paramount. The brand’s global creative director, Nick Irwin, is
marrying his extensive salon and session experience with the brand’s
enthusiasm for change and cult-cool aesthetic. “I’ve known Nick for a long time
and we share the same values and passion for our industry – ANTI presented
the perfect opportunity,” Francesco explains. “Nick is ANTI to his core and I
know he, like many others, wants to see a new age in hairdressing.”
“It’s time for change in the
industry and in the world.
ANTI is at the heart of that”
NICK IRWIN
CREATIVE HEAD ADVERTORIAL
The ANTI Heroes
A collection of 10 gender-neutral products, the ANTI portfolio is high performance and no-nonsense with
its bold packaging, to keep the focus on the sophisticated finish. These are our ANTI hero product picks…
EVERYTHING
SPRAY
A leave-in
conditioning spray
to add moisture,
detangle and soften.
FINISHING
CREAM
A lightweight, multipurpose
cream that
adds moisture, control
and shine.
TEXTURE
SPRAY
A salt spray that
creates effortless
matte texture without
weighing hair down.
STYLING
SPRAY
A workable styling
spray that provides
volume, control and
heat protection.
SHINE
SPRAY
An aerosol-free
finishing mist for
intense shine and a
smooth finish.
Explore the possibilities – contact connectuk@anticollective.com or visit anticollective.com
@anti.collective
CREATIVE HEAD
37

Redken
Steps to your
best blondes
ever
We don’t know whether blondes have more fun,
but we do know it’s the UK’s number one choice
for hair colour, so it’s clear they mean business.
Help your blondes to shine bright and you’ll win
clients for life. Here’s our five-step plan to ensure
blondes are always your best friends in the salon…
It’s all about… Performance
“CLIENTS HAVE TO think hard about going blonde – and staying fresh-outof-the-chair
blonde – it’s very high maintenance,” says Bruno Marc Giamattei,
JOICO ambassador for Europe, the UK and Ireland, and director of Marc Antoni
salons. So the challenge is to be able to create the best blondes, which means
you need the best tools at your fingertips. Luckily, there have never been betterperforming
products than are available today.
Preparation is key, so it’s important to remove old colour in way that doesn’t
compromise hair quality, giving you a blank canvas to work from. “Colour
removal and lightening within the salon can be a difficult process, with some
client requests seeming impossible without causing a lot of damage to the hair,”
explains Sam Brunton, business development manager at Hair Tools, which
offers the Zalon Pro London Colour Remover – a quick, easy and healthy way of
removing artificial colour. “Zalon targets only the artificial molecules within the
cortex of the hair, shrinks them down and allows them to escape through the
cuticle and be rinsed away. The argan oil also adds condition and shine.”
The Affinage Salon Infiniti High Lift Series formula ensures even results
every time you use it and has added anti-fade technology for longer-lasting
blondes. Available in four shades, this clever lightener contains 90 per cent
naturally-derived ingredients including shea butter and argan oil, so it’s
great for health and environmentally-conscious clients who still want
outstanding results.
The ColourCode Special Blondes range from Advanced Pro Salon features
three pre-lighteners, so you can choose the specific look you’re trying to
achieve. “Powerful anti-oxidants are also infused into each tube with the
addition of vitamins C and E, which reduce the damage and colour interference
caused by free radicals,” explains Jordan Lee-White, Advance Pro Salon
ColourCode creative director. “Pro-vitamin B5 adds essential moisture, too,
to help prevent damage and reduce brittleness.”
54 40 CREATIVE HEAD

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#Blondes
Live True Princess Hair
L’Oréal Professionnel
It’s all about… Technique
ONCE YOU’VE CONSIDERED performance, it’s time to take a
look at your method. Gone are the days of a simple half-head of
highlights – now there are countless ways to bring your clients
to the lighter side.
The team at Live True in London has developed a balayage
technique called Princess Hair that achieves the oft-requested
look. Instead of backcombing, the stylist applies colour with a
special freehand technique and then uses a hairdryer to apply
heat, creating a stronger colour lift. The result is a beautifully
blended, iridescent colour that still looks very natural. Because
it’s so easy to blend, it’s also easy to wear. “With its almost
too good to be true finish – it’s akin to the glorious hair
that Disney princesses have,” says Valerie Maine,
director at Live True.
James Taylor of Moose House of Hair in Market
Harborough agrees that placement is key. “We don’t
need to do full heads, it’s
more about face framing.
Make sure you apply
foils in the places that
are easy to forget: if the
client wears their hair in
a ponytail or tucks their
hair behind their ear, make
sure there are foils at the nape
of the neck and behind the ear
– otherwise they’ll feel this looks
really dark and won’t be happy.”
Meanwhile, Christel Lundqvist,
founder of Stil salon in
London and winner
of Most Wanted Best
Salon Experience, has
developed the Prism
Lights technique,
to maximise shine for blondes. “Prism Lights are freehandpainted
in fine strands of lighter colour through the roots
to the mid-lengths,” she explains. “Then the end of the hair
is freehand-painted with a layering effect using two subtle,
lighter shades. It allows light to open up and stream through
the hair, creating a halo around the face.”
At Trevor Sorbie, international technical director Nathan
Walker has created the Express Brightening service. “Simple
and quick, Express Brightening is an ideal introduction to
professional colour,” he explains. “The trend for
lower maintenance hair looks set to stay, so I
created these techniques to give a personal
and tailored colour experience in the
shortest amount of time.”
And no matter what technique you
decide on, Paper Not Foil offers the
perfect way to process your work of
art. Launched in New Zealand by
hairdresser Amanda Buckingham, it’s
both effective and environmentallyfriendly.
“Foil can’t be recycled
unless it is completely clean, and
the overwhelming majority of it
isn’t,” she explains. “I wanted to
create something that would be
as efficient as foil, if not better,
than it, but that was also
completely sustainable.”
This game-changing product
is super-speedy and can be
re-used. “Everyone wants to
make a difference to their
waste, and this is a way that
salons and clients can do
so,” adds Amanda.
42
CREATIVE HEAD

GOODBYE TO ALUMINIUM FOIL

#Blondes
ALFAPARF Milano
Neville Hair and Beauty Chocolate Blonde
Allilon Hair Education
It’s all about…Results
THE TRUE BEAUTY of blonde is that there are so many
different tones available. From sumptuous caramels to ashy
whites, there’s a finish for every client. Rich, warm shades are
popular for their low maintenance, and can be a delicious way
to add some interest for the new season. As can be seen across
Instagram, one thing has become clear – it’s all about tone, which
presents a brilliant opportunity for salons.
Neville Hair & Beauty in London has added Chocolate
Blonde and Butter Blonde to its menu of services, with the
former achieved by combining subtle hair painting with colourintensifying
foils. The result is soft, lived-in hair that stands out
due its versatility. “It works on all hair types and base colours,
and Redken’s Shade EQ helps achieve an uncontrived effect,”
says Elena Lavagni, co-owner of Neville Hair & Beauty.
Madeline Murphy, colour director at Allilon Hair Education
and Ena salon, stresses that you must always understand your
canvas. She says: “It’s so important to think about bleaches and
toners in particular and really educate yourself about underlying
pigments in the hair, what tone will be present in the hair when
lifting, as well as the counteracting tones.”
And toners can also create a very specific shade – so if your
client prefers a warm or cool tone you can bring their dreams
to life. ALFAPARF Milano Pigments come in colours such
as ash gold and rose copper and can be used in high or low
concentration. Simply add them to colour formulas, smoothing
treatments or selected ALFAPARF Milano styling products for a
boost or to refresh tired-looking hair between colour services.
Suzanne Alphonse, commercial technical education manager
at Wella Professionals, cites the brand’s Glossing Service for
blondes as a stable way of infusing colour. “It’s like putting on a
top coat on over a nail or lip colour,” she explains.
44
CREATIVE HEAD

ALLILON UK:
COLOUR COURSES 2019
Primary Colour Techniques
13th – 16th May
Advanced Colour & Foil Work
22nd – 25th July
Mention Creative HEAD when
booking to receive a gift from us
on the first day of the course.
Did you know, here at Allilon we
offer a complete range of four day
cut and colour courses in our
London academy to suit all needs.
To learn more SEARCH: ALLILON

#Blondes
It’s all about…
Hair health
OF COURSE, blonde hair only remains beautiful as long
as it’s healthy. Ensure you’re entirely honest about what is
and isn’t possible before you begin any process. “To always
get the best result you need to meet or manage your client’s
expectations,” explains James Taylor at Moose House of Hair.
“To go from dark to white blonde won’t happen how they
think it will! If you can educate them on the science behind
why it won’t work or why it will take time, then it helps them
understand, rather than them thinking that you can’t be a
very good hairdresser if you can’t do it!”
Luckily, bonding additives mean that hair can be kept
healthier than ever before even during the blonding process
– think of them as preventative measures rather than damage
control. The original bonding additive, Olaplex, changed hair
colour forever. “Olaplex will help to repair the most damaged
hair, protect it during colour services and help to optimise
results, therefore increasing client satisfaction,” explains
Vanessa Boland, Olaplex educator. “Clients are more aware of
the damage colouring can cause to their hair and healthy hair
is an important factor for many clients.”
Now savvy-salons are aware of the multiple benefits of
including additives in technical services. “We use L’Oréal
Professionnel Smartbond – it makes blondes lighter with
clean results and leaves hair in great condition,” says Andria
Kaisharis, colour director at Fowler35.
The new Defy Damage in-salon treatment from JOICO can
be used with any colour and lightening brand and helps to
strengthen and protect bonds while improving results and
saving time. The first step, Pro Series 1, is a simple spray that
makes lightening processes more effective, while the second,
Pro Series 2, strengthens and hydrates.
So, how can you ensure that your clients opt for an
additive? “Present your client with a visual,” suggests
Vanessa. “Bleach two wefts – one with Olaplex, and one
without, and do this a few times to mimic a second and third
session of lightening. Present them to clients and let them
feel the difference for themselves.”
46
CREATIVE HEAD

#Blondes
@isamayaffrench, colour by @amyfishcolour
It’s all about… Aftercare
THE LONGER YOUR clients’ hair looks great, the happier they’ll be with
your service. That means you need to ensure they leave the salon with
everything they need to keep their newly-blonde hair shining bright.
“Aftercare is super-important for all colour clients, but for blondes it is
essential,” explains Amy Fish, colour queen at Larry King in London. “When
clients go blonde they invest so much time and money on it, so you want them
to continue that at home and keep their hair colour looking the best it can.”
The key to this, says Amy, is communication. “Everyone sees colour
differently so it’s you need to understand what shade your client loves.
Educating them about the right aftercare is important so that the client will
respect and understand the maintenance of their blonde.”
And it’s essential that the plan you come up
with fits your client’s lifestyle. “Having an in-depth
consultation with our clients allows us to create
a tailored aftercare plan,” says Johanna Herald,
senior master stylist at Charles Worthington Percy
Street in London. “We can discuss and agree on the
upkeep routine that suits them.”
When it comes to minimising brassiness, Amy
Redken
recommends Redken Blondage. “It smells
gorgeous and is high in pigment, which is
great for colourists. Blondage has an equal
mix of moisturising and strengthening
factors, which is perfect for blondes who
like their hair ‘ashier’ as it will remove any
yellow tones in the hair – but it also works for
brunettes whose hair fades to red.”
Adam Reed, editorial ambassador for
L’Oréal Professionnel and co-founder of
Percy & Reed salons, believes that the
most common concerns for blonde hair are
breakage, damage and lack of shine. He adds:
“It’s important to manage colour with at-home
haircare such as L’Oréal Professionnel Serie
Expert Blondifier, which can help brighten
blonde in-between colour appointments.”
Innoluxe’s platinum range contains a
shampoo, conditioner and masque to help
maintain blonde hair by deleting yellow tones
and adding moisture. New Olaplex No. 4
shampoo and No. 5 conditioner mean clients
maintain their hair health after they’ve left
the salon. “They contain the active ingredient
in Olaplex so you’re repairing the bonds
in your hair while you cleanse! They also
address moisture concerns and leave hair
silky-smooth,” adds Vanessa Boland. “They
can offer a way for salons to boost retail sales
because they are an extension to the
salon service.”
48
CREATIVE HEAD

Chloe NØrgaard
for Redken 5th Avenue
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APRIL/MAY/JUNE
APRIL/MAY
A
AY
/ UNE
2019
MISTER QUARTERLY

THE FACES, THE PLACES, THE NEWS, THE VIEWS
Mr. Q
welcomes you…
No April fools in this issue of Mr Q – we’re all about getting
your barbering business in shape to tackle what the future
has to challenge you with! Check out our tips on page 6. We
caught up with Kyle Ross of Sovereign, formerly Huntsman
barber shop in Aberdeen, and got the lowdown from
Charles Jeffrey’s London Fashion Week Men’s show, styled
by John Vial for Revlon Professional. Oh, and there’s some
artistic work to enjoy by Tony Haresign and Allan Stone, too.
YOU NEED
TO MEET…
CONNOR EVANS
Men’s Grooming Company
GET SMART
WHAT ALL BARBERS SHOULD DO THIS QUARTER
1.
first men’s event, hosted by
See… Most Wanted Male
Grooming Specialist Jody Taylor
and Liam Campbell styling up a
storm at The Coterie: In Session’s
grooming guru Lee Kynaston.
creativeheadmag.com/thecoterie
2.
mostwanted
3.
Enter… the Most Wanted Male
Grooming Specialist Award,
sponsored by American Crew.
The deadline is 13 May.
Download your form at
creativeheadmag.com/
Follow… all the action from the
Men’s Image Award at this year’s
L’Oréal Colour Trophy Grand
Final at Battersea Evolution.
Follow @creativeheadmag on
Instagram on 3 June for all
the updates as they happen
Describe yourself in five words
Creative, ambitious, adaptable,
motivated, persistent.
What’s exciting you about British
barbering right now?
I’m love the fact that I’m being
inspired by barbers young and old,
pushing the boundaries in British
barbering and male grooming to
a whole new level. It’s such an
exciting time for our industry,
fusing traditional barbering with
modern techniques and styles.
If I could change one thing…
I would stop the opening of any
more barber shops until the industry
is regulated and accountable for
the services provided by cheap
unqualifi ed barbers. Until this is
done these types of barber shops
will undermine the professional
skills of real barbers and shops
trying to give good reliable services
for their clients.
ON THE COVER
Hair by Adee Phelan for SKNHEAD
The barbers that most inspired
me are…
Sid Sottung is one of the most
amazing barbers I have ever had the
pleasure to work with, he taught
me everything I know. He is an
amazing teacher and he still inspires
me to this day. Dan Davies and Tom
Chapman’s on-going support has
been brilliant, too.
Who else should we get to know?
@Staceyayles is an incredibly
talented barber, a fellow ambassador
for the Lions Barbers Collective and
there’s no one else I would rather
have working alongside me. My
younger brother @ciaranevans94
is an incredible barber who inspires
me every day in the shop, I’m so
proud of him.
Say hello to me at
Instagram: @connorevanshair;
Facebook:
@Men’sGroomingCompany
02 Mister Quarterly

Gemma Willock-Smith
NEW LIONS
BARBERS
REVEALED
NEW GROOM ROOM
The Barber Shop at Gina Conway
ALL STAR CHALLENGE
GEMMA WILLOCK-SMITH from Frequency Barber in
Glasgow scooped first place at this year’s American Crew
All Star Challenge UK final. Along with Irish winner Chris
O’Riordan from ST4Men, they’ll go into the next round to
determine who makes the global final in New York on 19
May, where American Crew celebrates its 25th anniversary.
Kieran Evans from Jacks of London (UK) and Signature
Hair’s Barry Kieran (Ireland) were runners-up.
The Lions Barber Collective has
revealed its 2019 ambassadors. The
charity, which raises awareness
of men’s mental health and was
founded by barber Tom Chapman, the
ambassadors will help with awareness
and support with fundraising. They are
Sam Wall (Newcastle), Stacey Ayles
(Weymouth), Connor Evans (Coventry),
Dan Davies (London), Lesley MacBain
(Liverpool), Darren Birch (Warwick
and Leicester), Tommie McGuckin
(Scotland), Ken Hermes (London),
Mark Loftin (Exmouth) and Jac
Ludlow (Wales and Norway).
Master barber Andrea D’Anna has been
working behind the scenes for months to
help build The Barber Shop at Gina Conway.
A dedicated area in the Notting Hill salon,
it provides a variety of men’s services from
a quick cut to a customised grooming
experience with classic haircuts, nail services,
hot towel shaves, and facial experiences.
The new service menu uses traditional men’s
grooming techniques alongside the Aveda
Men skincare and hair care, and will offer
value-add Aveda Rituals to clients, too.

#TRENDING
Photography courtesy of Revlon Professional
CHARLES
JEFFREY A/W19
John Vial for Revlon Professional
The Charles Jeffrey A/W19 show was a vivid re-imagining
of the ’20s and its androgynous Bright Young Things, with
inspiration drawn from a 1923 edition of Peter Pan. Hair lead
John Vial, global influencer for Revlon Professional, channelled
Charles’s love affair with the decade, using origami hair with folds
and tucks to emanate the structures of cloche hats worn in the era.
Also added into the mix were references to the wild youth of
Lord of the Flies and the Eton Crop, first made famous by Josephine
Baker, with slicked-back, shining hair finished with a few curls.
Models with longer hair saw John get a little playful. He prepped
with Revlon Professional Style Masters Modular Hairspray then
placed a ruler halfway down the hair to use as a base for folding
the ends up to create the line. The folded ends were then
resprayed before drying to set in place. Once the shape
was complete, Revlon Professional Style Masters
Glamourama was spritzed all over to
create a glass-like shine.
04 Mister Quarterly

ON THE SHELF
BOYS’ TOYS
THE HOTTEST STOCK, TOOLS AND FURNITURE FOR YOUR BARBER SHOP
Infused with cedarwood and rosemary,
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Game
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Phelan’s
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The
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La Biosthétique’s new men’s range,
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com
Mister Quarterly 05

08 Mister Quarterly
BARBER SHOPS SAW THE GREATEST NUMBER OF OPENINGS IN
2017, DRIVEN BY INDEPENDENT BUSINESSES. WITH INCREASED
COMPETITION FOR STAFF AND CUSTOMERS, HOW CAN YOU
FUTUREPROOF YOUR BUSINESS AND ENSURE IT GOES THE DISTANCE?

Noticed a new barber shop opening near you? You won’t
be the only one. According to the Local Data Company’s
Retail and Leisure Trends Report for 2017/2018, barber
shops enjoyed the highest number of openings in 2017.
With so much choice on offer, attracting loyal customers
and talented staff is becoming harder than ever. The
pressure is on – here’s a little help…
BUILD THE RIGHT TEAM…
AND GET THEM THE RIGHT SKILLS
Want to ensure the success of your barber shop in a competitive
world? Ruffians’ co-founder Andrew Cannon is adamant that it’s
all about building the right team. “You can have a fancy fit-out,
the best product on the market and an advertising budget to rival
Coca-Cola – but if your team is not happy and motivated then it
is all for nothing,” he says. “The clients will see through it and
will not want to return to your shop. Build a happy team and the
clients will feed off that energy and keep coming back.”
But how do you do this? Listen to them. “It is so important that
staff feel valued and have a voice within the team, whether they
The Bluebeards Revenge
are a trainee or a store manager,” Andrew adds. “Each of them
plays a key role in the team, each will be a different character
with different ideas, concerns, emotions and so on. It’s key to
listen to them all.”
So you have your team in place – what now? “Staying educated
is the key to staying competitive,” believes Jo Martin, marketing
director at Sally Europe. “When a client walks through your door
asking for a specific look, they expect you to know your stuff.”
Male grooming is now so much more than just a short back and
sides and it’s tough to track change, but looking both within and
beyond your own barber shop will help to reveal shifting trends. The
Bluebeards Revenge team recommends keeping an eye on A-list
celebrities and current streetwear brands that have a recognised
influence. Does your team know about Paul Pogba’s most recent
hair update? How has Supreme styled its latest lookbook?
After surveying more than 2,000 people, The Bluebeards
Revenge discovered that male clients’ hair is set to get longer,
and beards more groomed in 2019. Two-thirds of the men
that answered yes to changing their haircut in the year ahead
suggested that their new look would be of medium to mediumlong
length, while 33 per cent are planning to embrace more
rugged designer stubble or fully-fledged beards.
“The 21st century man doesn’t want to go into a barber shop for
a quick haircut anymore,” explains Jim Shaw, owner of essensuals
Men Toni&Guy in Billericay. “It’s so important to be able to offer
many different services so that clients leave your salon looking
and feeling the best version of themselves.” Whether that’s offering
traditional hot towel shaves or eyebrow waxing, facials or scalp
massages, spend the time so clients spend the money.
Even time-pressed clients can be catered for if you’re able to
open up early or cater for before and after normal work hours.
Offer speedy, effective solutions to requests; for example Redken
Brews’ Camo Color and Goldwell’s Men Reshade options give
subtle grey coverage in the blink of an eye and can be applied at
the backwash. Quick and uncomplicated, these are no-brainer
services which will make a big difference to your sales.
Providing opportunities for your staff to push themselves and
grow can see their confidence boosted and skills soaring. Baldy,
owner of Baldy’s Barbers in Aylesbury, says: “Competitions
such as the American Crew All Star Challenge give barbers and
men’s stylists a global showcase for their work. It’s also judged
completely blind by independent judges which is really amazing.”
FIND YOUR PERFECT MATCH…
AND GET PRESCRIBING!
The right product brand to partner with can bring a huge
boost, both in resources, education and name recognition, and
there are a number of great brands to choose from. When iconic
hairdresser Adee Phelan created SKNHEAD, he did so following
years of brand affiliations – figuring out what did and didn’t
work. Sticking with one brand without shopping around, or only
considering a small pool of options, can blind you to potentially
perfect partnerships, he said.
“Barber shops should be looking for a brand that continues to
bring out modern products and has a vision of the future. It’s
important that the brand trusts the salon or barber shop as more
than just somewhere to house its products,” Adee explains.
Retail is so much more than just an additional revenue
stream. It’s worthwhile spending the time on your staff’s product
Mister Quarterly 09

the kind of experience you want your client to enjoy and ensure
your service is second-to-none,” advises Kate Wrighton, territory
sales manager for Takara Belmont. “Space planning is vital to a
first-class client experience, but it also enables you to plan your
service menu for new revenue streams.”
“You need to really invest in your chairs, choosing a brand
that is well known for its quality,” Terry Bunn, Maletti’s salon
designer, suggests. “When it comes to stations you need to ensure
you are working with materials that are resistant to water
damage. If possible, choose materials that age well with time:
solid wood doors, granite tops and ceramic sinks.”
Trend-chasing can compromise both quality and experience;
the details matter. “Barber shops mean more than just haircuts.
You need to combine both trend and expertise, design and
functionality, style and professionalism,” explains Sarah Dade,
UK manager for Salon Ambience.
Finally, it’s important not to neglect the first impression of
your shop from an outsider’s perspective – sometimes literally.
“The shop window is important and has to be integrated into the
design, as it’s one of your best forms of advertising,” Terry adds.
knowledge, so that they know each one inside-out. Confident
stylists will see the sales follow naturally. “Let’s say you went to
the doctor and had a check-up, you’d expect that the doctor would
give you the right prescription,” Adee reasons. “Barbers and
hairdressers should be doing the same thing.”
According to Sue Whitehead, managing director of Jacks of
London, it’s worth salon owners and managers relinquishing
some control so that barbers feel empowered to take on
responsibility for success. Her suggestion? Using business
software to show proof of how changes to how they work can have
an impact on the bottom line. “A reluctance to promote add-on
services might seem like obstinacy to you, but it may just be a
fundamental lack of understanding from them,” she explains.
“They simply ‘might not know what they don’t know’, and merely
telling them is not enough. If you can show them what
you mean, and your data allows you to do that, then
you can break through and set them on the path to
lasting success.”
ENSURE YOUR SHOP
LOOKS THE PART…
AND DELIVERS
ON SERVICE
Placing the customer experience
at the centre of what you do
means you need to consider
how your shop looks and
the physical flow of your
client’s journey through
the space, alongside
what’s on your
service menu.
“Build your
equipment around
SKNHEAD
ENGAGE WITH YOUR AUDIENCE…
AND WATCH THE FOOTFALL RISE
At Jacks of London, the team works hard on creating a
‘frictionless experience’. “We’ve embraced technology, meeting
our target audience not just via our channels but also on other
platforms they love, such as our recent collaborations with The
Idle Man and other influencers. We are constantly developing
fresh marketing campaigns,” Sue explains.
At Barber + Blow the brand has a very clean, clear approach
and customer appeal, which translates into its curated feed on
social media. Barber and owner Benjamin May explains: “We
don’t over-post and don’t flood our followers with similar images
in a repeated sequence. It’s always fun to create great imagery.”
Riding the tide of trends isn’t enough to guarantee success, but
taking these steps to future-proof your business from whatever
challenges are heading your way will see customers coming
through your doors long after the beard buzz dies down.
Benjamin May, Barber + Blow
10 Mister Quarterly

FOLLOW US @AMERICANCREWUK

KEEP IT SLICK
STRIKING IN ITS SIMPLICITY, SLICKERS IS A COLLABORATIVE
COLLECTION BY TONY HARESIGN AND ALLAN STONE,
A MONOCHROMATIC STUDY OF THE ‘CITY BOY’ LOOK
PHOTOGRAPHY BY MARIE HARKNESS
12 Mister Quarterly

Hair: Tony Haresign (@hairbytonyharesign) and Allan Stone (@allanbarberstone).
Make-up: Ellie Gibson (@elliegibsonx). Photography: Marie Harkness (@harknessphotography)
Mister Quarterly 13

SHOP TALK
POLE POSITION
SOVEREIGN
KYLE ROSS HAS BIG DREAMS ABOUT REIGNING SUPREME WITH
HIS BRAND OF VINTAGE-INSPIRED MODERN BARBER SHOPS
Kyle Ross
Kyle Ross is ready to take the barbering
crown. His Aberdeen-based barber shop
Sovereign, formerly Huntsman, is built
around three core pillars – cutting, care
and education – and it is this approach
which has seen him win multiple awards
and be shortlisted for GQ’s Barber of the
Year 2019.
“We execute the best haircuts we can,
but we really like to educate – and not
just our team. We’re focused on educating
our clients, tailoring their haircut to suit
their lifestyle,” Kyle explains.
Often handing the brush and the dryer
to the client after demonstrating how
to finish their hair, he’s determined to
foster an atmosphere where clients feel
understood and leave feeling confident
that they can look great for weeks to
come. “There’s no point giving a haircut
to someone who then doesn’t have the
time to get it to sit in that style every
day,” he adds.
Every detail of Sovereign has become
focused around offering a level of service
that fits into the modern man’s lifestyle.
Open six days a week and starting from
7am for three of those days, the team
has been hand-picked to offer a
breadth of services, including hot towel
shaving, eyebrow waxing and chemical
straightening. From early gym-goers
to the working professional, Kyle wants
to be able to deliver an exquisite finish
that leaves every client feeling on top
of their game.
With outlets in Edinburgh and Glasgow
planned in the next year, Kyle is ready to
expand his empire. This month sees the
launch of a line of male beauty and spa
treatments, as well as a retail range on
the brand’s new online store. Long may
this Sovereign reign…
14 Mister Quarterly

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He regularly collaborates with titles like GQ and Esquire, has
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he’s our 2018 Most Wanted Male Grooming Specialist.
LIAM CAMPBELL
From a stint in the British Army to freelance barber and
creator of Brother Barber, Liam’s trade has taken him
from Australia to India, backstage on The X Factor and
styling for the likes of Diesel and Ted Baker.
HOST:
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THEY
ALL
HAVE
IT!
THEY’RE THE HOTTEST YOUNG STARS
OF THE HAIRDRESSING WORLD – MEET
THE 2018 WINNERS OF THE IT LIST, IN
ASSOCIATION WITH GHD. IT’S OPEN TO
BRIGHT YOUNG THINGS UNDER THE AGE
OF 30 AND A PRECURSOR TO A METEORIC
RISE IN THE INDUSTRY. SO HOW HAVE THE
LIVES OF OUR WINNERS CHANGED?

#TheItList
THE RISING STAR
JORDAN MASSARELLA,
NASHWHITE
‘SHOOTING STAR’ MIGHT be a more accurate title for Jordan Massarella.
Alongside a flourishing column at NashWhite in Leamington Spa, his flair for
colour has seen his career soar. After winning the L’Oréal Colour Trophy Afro
Award in 2017 and earning a place as a L’Oréal Professionnel Colour ID Artist,
winning the The It List Rising Star 2018 Award cemented his name as a needto-know
colourist.
“The It List is one of the coolest awards in the industry,” Jordan says.
“It acknowledges individuals for their work and is at the forefront of the
freshest hairdressing. It was such an honour to be recognised alongside the
best of the best! Who wouldn’t want to be a part of it?”
When thinking back over the process, he struggles to put the experience
into words. “Thrilling, nerve-wracking, intoxicating,” he says. “It gives you a
goal – and when it pays off it’s so rewarding.”
Since clinching the title, work has been flooding in to challenge and
invigorate his creative mind. Jordan’s signature Hockney-style hair
painting has led to him being in high demand for events and education,
even achieving a dream of his and leading a creative colour course with
L’Oréal Professionnel. His course focused on treating hair as a canvas
for painting, working with wefts and abstract colour placements.
“Working with L’Oréal Professionnel as a guest artist is a dream come
true and gives me a great platform to showcase my work. I’ve had the
opportunity to work alongside some of my hair idols,” he recalls.
He noted a real shift after his win, too, he felt that a spotlight of
awareness had fallen on him. “It was as if people were saying ‘if you
don’t know him, you’d better get to know him,’” he laughs.

54
CREATIVE HEAD

#TheItList
THE ENTREPRENEUR
PHIL BENTON, DOUCE
“IT WAS ALL quite surreal, really. I had never attended an event like that before,
and to walk in and be recognised by those in the industry who have inspired me was
incredible,” Phil Benton recalls of last year’s Grand Final, where he scooped the title of
The It List Entrepreneur 2018 for his retro Airstream concept salon, douce.
Owning his own business by the age of 25 had been a dream of Phil’s, and in douce
he had the perfect vehicle (literally) to bring his dream to fruition. Given his passion for
unique concepts, it was no surprise that a former winner was the one to convince him to
enter the competition: “Ky Wilson popped in for a haircut and drinks after following us
on Instagram, and we just clicked. He explained The Entrepreneur category [which Ky
won in 2016] and that got me incredibly excited about The It List.”
When Phil’s name was read out, Ky was one of the first to leap to his feet and
embrace the newly-crowned champ. One Airstream has become two, and with a rapidly
expanding team to keep up with demand there may well be a douce fleet before long.
“The lifestyle is exciting and our team has grown, along with all of our opportunities
and adventures,” Phil says. “Since picking up the award, I have opened a new, bigger
Airstream salon, which is located in Shoreditch, with three chairs and three new team
members. And I’m on the hunt for more staff…”
A clothing line is on the horizon after a collaboration with jacket brand K-Way, and his
win was even covered by ITV. The quirky branding attracted the attention of business
schools and universities, many of whom have since invited Phil to speak to inspire their
students to think outside the box. But it’s the reaction of his industry and peers that has
had the biggest impact. “The nicest part is that it has made me stand out in the industry
for doing something innovative – and some say inspiring,” Phil says. “Winning the
award gave me such a boost and made me want to push the business even further. The
start of the douce journey has gone beyond what I could have imagined. Creating this
brand and seeing it evolve has made me eternally excited for the future!”
CREATIVE HEAD 55

Sunday Times Style
Marc Jacobs A/W18
Versace A/W17
Mary Katrantzou A/W19
THE FASHIONISTA
MADS-SUNE LUND CHRISTENSEN,
JOSH WOOD COLOUR
Backstage Mary Katrantzou images by Clement Leon Mogensen
ALWAYS COOL UNDER PRESSURE, Josh Wood’s right hand-man Mads-Sune Lund Christensen had
his own catwalk moment at our Grand Final as he took to the stage to accept The It List Fashionista
2018 prize. Shocked into near silence, it took a while for the win to sink in. “The whole competition
was very emotional,” Mads admits. “Having had a couple of busy years travelling doing shows,
campaigns and clients made me realise I hadn’t had the chance to sit and reflect on all the amazing
colour I have had the opportunity to help create. So being able to put it all together and reflect on it
was the best experience.”
Juggling salon clients at Josh Wood Colour with work on campaigns, shoots and the runway work he
undertakes alongside Redken global color creative director Josh is no mean feat. His commitment
to his work and deft touch with colour meant a real buzz about his abilities
formed even before his win. It was the chance to reflect on his work that
tempted Mads into entering. “Creative HEAD offers a generous
platform for contestants’ work and ambitions – I didn’t want to
miss getting that exposure,” he says.
His entry for the competition was very, well, Mads. “I didn’t
try to make it big or fancy, having been lucky enough to have
some really strong images with some of the biggest photographers,
hairstylists and make-up artists. I didn’t want anything to take focus
away from my work. Keeping it simple and strong was what I felt
suited an otherwise very colourful entry.”
Since the awards, his career has gone from strength to strength.
“It has been another crazy year – seeing colour I worked on in three big
advertisements in the US Vogue September issue kicked everything off!”
he recalls, almost immediately followed by the now iconic colour work by Josh
Wood at Marc Jacobs’ S/S19 show, creating vintage pastel perfection.
“We had 37 pastels walking the Marc Jacobs runway – that’s a colour story to be
remembered!” he grins. From the streaks of tie-dye coloured wefts for Mary Katrantzou’s
elemental show to the icy Wednesday Addams plaits at Prada, Mads’ work continued to
help colour the runway for A/W19. And with the 2019 competition now open for entries,
his advice for those considering taking part is short and sweet: “Do it. It’s an amazing
platform to be seen from and gives brilliant opportunity to reflect on all the long hours
and hard work you have put in.”
56

Love
#TheItList
Prep work for Mary Katrantzou A/W19, courtesy of Simon Martin
Marc Jacobs S/S19
Mary Katrantzou A/W19
Mary Katrantzou A/W19
Schiaparelli
57

See more from Paddy
online. Check it out on
creativeheadmag.com/paint
PAINT
58
CREATIVE HEAD

#TheItList
THE IT GUY
PADDY MCDOUGALL,
RAINBOW ROOM INTERNATIONAL
A TWO-TIME FINALIST, Paddy McDougall threw everything he could at
his third attempt to finally claim the title of The It List It Guy 2018. His bold,
honest manifesto about his career caught the judges’ attention, along with
his abundant achievements. The stars aligned and his time had finally come.
“That year I really learnt the difference between finalising and winning! It was
about making sure it reflected me and the message I wanted to get across,”
Paddy recalls. “I have a clear aesthetic in my work and I wanted to bring that
to the entry. I think it was the first time I could actually sit back and say ‘I 100
per cent achieved that’, so that made it good to get the win.”
Already artistic director for Rainbow Room International, a FAME Team
member and a Schwarzkopf Professional Young Artistic Team winner, The
It Guy was the accolade that he was relentlessly chasing after, knowing the
opportunities it would bring. “Creative HEAD is the biggest hair magazine
around, and these awards are the most reputable in the industry,” he explains.
“It made sense to get involved – it still feels crazy to see my name up there
with such illustrious company.”
So, what now? Did the title open up the same opportunities that he had so
hoped for? Well yes, it turns out – and more. “I think even just making The It
List Grand Final on a couple of previous occasions really helped my profile but
winning is a step up again. When you walk into the SportsMax show in Milan
and Duffy’s there congratulating you, you know it’s a big deal.”
Since then, Paddy has continued to thrive backstage, working on Duffy’s
team for shows such as Saint Laurent and Louis Vuitton.
In January he was named the new global ambassador for Indola alongside
existing ambassador Andy Smith, jetting off to Barcelona to shoot the new
Street Style collection, which lands this month. As one of our PAINTERS, he
regularly contributes hot colour trends, techniques and commentary, while
also keeping his scissors sharp at the salon in Glasgow.
For anyone thinking of taking a swing at the awards for 2019, Paddy had one
clear piece of advice. “First, decide what it is that you want to say; what your
message is,” he insists. “Then make sure every aspect of your entry conveys
this. I think that’s the secret to nailing it – sometimes it’s worth taking a step
back from it for a minute just to check.”
Hunger
59

60 CREATIVE HEAD

#TheItList
THE VISIONARY & THE IT GIRL
GRACE DALGLEISH,
BROOKS & BROOKS
UNDOUBTEDLY THE BIGGEST winner of the night was Grace Dalgleish, who was
named both The It List Visionary and The It List It Girl 2018. Visibly shaking and
emotional, Grace blurted out onstage: “I don’t know what to say – I’m blown away!
I need to ring my mum!” At only 23, Grace is a rare talent whose ambition, impeccable
colour work and accomplished platform artistry wowed the judges.
She shines in myriad roles as one of the youngest members of the Brooks & Brooks
Art Team – educating for L’Oréal Professionnel internationally, running her own colour
course and creating the launch image for L’Oréal Professionnel’s Botanēa colour range.
“I’m always looking to push myself and competition work is something I’m passionate
about. Win or lose, you gain from the experience,” Grace explains.
Brooks & Brooks has a strong track record of The It List winners (nine awards and
counting), and this heritage was partly what inspired her to take part: “Seeing my peers
get amazing opportunities is something that definitely inspired me to enter. It was a
great way to reflect on the year; it’s not until you start the process that you realise how
much you’ve done,” she told us. “I enjoyed it from start to finish and had fun with it.
It’s something I’ll keep forever.”
Her entries for the two awards were distinct – a clean, visual journey through her
numerous achievements for The It Girl, and a tour of her character-fuelled Cartoon
Vision colour work for The Visionary. “I wanted to create an entry full of solid content
that represented the big year I’d had,” she explains. “And for Visionary, each model had
huge colour transformations, so I wanted to bring their personality out with colour.”
Cartoon Vision stemmed from one of her street-cast monthly test shoots, where she is
constantly experimenting, building confidence in her colour and shoot work. Since her
winning moment, Grace has had some truly incredible experiences. From presenting
at L’Oréal Professionnel’s Colour Congress with Sally Brooks to educating in Russia
and China, her Insta-Colour course has proved a huge hit. “Being part of the Art Team
means I get to travel a lot and share my passion as an educator.”
Reflecting back on the momentous night last September, she says: “Winning two
awards in one night gave me great exposure and recognition in our industry.” As
she looks to her ever-colourful future, Grace had some wise words to share about her
experience. “Don’t over-think it and remember to have fun. Create something that you
can look back at and be super-proud of – then if you win, that’s a bonus.”
CREATIVE HEAD
THINK YOU SHOULD BE ON THE IT LIST?
Visit creativeheadmag.com/theitlist now to top tips
and download your entry form. Deadline is 20 May!
61

62
CREATIVE HEAD

IT AIN’T
NECESSARILY SO
THE SWH ART TEAM FROM BRIGHTON’S SIMON WEBSTER HAIR CATAPULTS US BACK
TO EVELYN WAUGH’S ROARING TWENTIES WITH BRIGHT YOUNG THINGS, A BOLD
STATEMENT IN CLASSIC FINISHES ROUNDED OUT WITH BITING MODERNITY
PHOTOGRAPHY BY KENNY MCCRACKEN
CREATIVE HEAD 63

64
CREATIVE HEAD

CREATIVE HEAD 65
HAIR SWH Art Team, Simon Webster Hair, Brighton. CONCEPT AND ART DIRECTION Simon Webster.
COLOUR AND PRODUCTS Goldwell and KMS. MAKE-UP Xoë Kingsley.

In
bloom
ANNE VECK LETS HER AVANT-GARDE STYLING EXPERTISE BLOSSOM
IN MIRROR MAZE, A COLLABORATION WITH MAGIC OWEN
66
CREATIVE HEAD

Gown by Mishi May (@mishi.may)
PHOTOGRAPHY BY MAGIC OWEN
CREATIVE HEAD 67

THIS PAGE: dress by Courtney Plumb (@courtneyplumbdesign), choker by Kerris Spencer (@kerrisspencer), tights by
Pretty Polly (@prettypollylegs), shoes by Ajvani (@ajvanishoes). OPPOSITE PAGE: jacket and dress by Courtney Plumb
68
CREATIVE HEAD

HAIR Anne Veck (@annevecksalons). PHOTOGRAPHY AND RETOUCHING Magic Owen (@magicowenphotography). STYLING Sue Fyfe-Williams
(@stylistsfw). MAKE-UP Coco Hirani (@coco.hirani) using @maccosmetics and @bobbibrown, assisted by Naomi Lake (@naomilakemua). MODELS Talli
Lindsey at Ciel Model Management (@talli_lyndsey) and Alissa Polanski at Model Union (@greenfairy222). Giant poppies: Tissue Blossoms (@tissue_blossoms)
CREATIVE HEAD 69

Scene
THE HOTTEST EVENTS EVERY MONTH – GET YOURSELF SCENE!
Great
SCOTS
NOW IN ITS 19th year, the Charlie Miller Achievement
Awards are a celebration of the 110 staff working across the
five-strong Edinburgh salon group. This year they were held
at the Kimpton Hotel in the city’s Charlotte Square and
hosted by radio and TV presenter Grant Stott. The event
saw founders Charlie and Janet Miller also welcome guests
from Kérastase, L’Oréal Professionnel and distributor We
Are Hair & Beauty. With an astonishing 25 individual awards
presented on the night, there was a lot for joint managing
directors, Jason and Joshua Miller to get through, along with
artistic director India Miller. Men’s Stylist of the Year was won
by Neil Purves, while the Grand Prix award for Outstanding
Hairdresser of the Year was presented to a delighted Rosslyn
Orr, salon manager at the South St Andrew Street salon, who
also scooped Head Technician of the Year.
Jason Miller, Rosslyn Orr
and Joshua Miller
Neil Purves (left)
70
CREATIVE HEAD

Raise the
CURTAIN
2019 MARKS A pretty monumental year for grooming
brand American Crew as it celebrates its 25th birthday, so
the excitement was turned up to 11 at the UK and Ireland
final of the All Star Challenge. The barbers crowned national
winners would stand a chance of making it to the global final
in New York in May, guaranteed to be one heck of a party!
Guests piled into private members’ club The Curtain in
Shoreditch to celebrate all the finalists and hear from UK and
Ireland general manager Lisa Jackson on the high standard
in this year’s 200-plus entries. With judges including
barbers Ian Harrold and Alan Beak, and grooming guru Lee
Kynaston, the pressure was on to deliver. But deliver they
did – for the UK, Gemma Willock-Smith from Frequency
Barber in Glasgow won the top spot, with Jacks of London’s
Kieran Evans the runner-up. For Ireland, it was the second
consecutive year that ST4Men’s Chris O’Riordan took top
honours, with Barry Kieran from Signature Hair the runnerup.
Let’s hope it will be a New York state of mind for both
winners next month…
Gemma Willock-Smith, Lisa
Jackson and Kieran Evans
CREATIVE HEAD 71

Hair by Rachel Valentine and Lloyd Court
Hair by Lucie Monbillard
and Skyler Hanna
Future
FETISH
IT WAS A throwback to the ’80s for seanhanna’s Retro Future-themed
annual awards show. From wool-infused braids to Tetris stencilling,
directors Skyler Hanna, Yesmin O’Brien, Lucie Monbillard, Lloyd Court
and senior educator Rachel Valentine lit up the stage with bold creations,
focusing on texture and colour. Colour specialist and creative director
Skyler Hanna said at the event: “The ’80s was all about big volume
and texture. I wanted to bring a new age of hair into the show and use
geometric shapes to create iconic haircuts.” After the show it was on to the
awards, celebrating the group’s collective hard work and achievements
from throughout the year. Ilker Nalkiran from Canary Wharf scooped
Creative Image Mens, Avant Garde and Style, while Kirsty Jones from
Worcester Park won Creative Image Colour. Congratulations to Wimbledon,
which was named as the seanhanna Salon of the Year.
Tomm Bucknell, general manager of
seanhanna Putney; Skyler Hanna
and Sean Hanna
72
CREATIVE HEAD

CREATIVE HEAD VIDEO
MADE BY US… ESPECIALLY FOR YOU
PRESS
PLAY>
TOP HAIR ARTISTS
FROM AROUND THE WORLD
On set and in action
CREATIVE HEAD EVENTS
Most Wanted & The It List Awards…
Featured Artist LIVE… Salon Smart…
The Coterie: In Session…
NEW TRENDS, NEW IDEAS
Expertly created, beautifully filmed
and ready to watch
Waiting for you now at:
CREATIVEHEADMAG.COM/TV

One of my VIP clients…
Cheeky haircut from fellow photographer
@DesmondMurray on the @wellahairuk
#TrendVision Create Your Look tour
Ooh! Pkai Hair images on the
new inspirational lightboxes at
the Wella studio!
Team training! This month,
cutting techniques
In the
frame
Kai Wan (@kaiwan17),
founder of Pkai Hair and
photographer, snaps away
Family trip to the National
Track Championships in
Manchester
SHOOT AND SEND Want to give us
a snapshot of your world? Tweet
us at @creativeheadmag now!
Wow! A six-page feature
in @practicalphotography
magazine!
Switching off – skiing
with the family
Mentoring the #ProjectX
team – presentation skills with
Edward Hemmings
A close-up shot I took
at the recent Create Your
Look tour
Editorial shoot for our local
magazine Gravitas – I did
the hair and shot the cover!
74
CREATIVE HEAD

Hair: Organic Colour Systems Salon Mentors; Michel Koller, Stefanie Kaufman, Tracey Burnap
Make-up: Tara Sanger
Photography: Magdalena Bieth
Creative Direction: Karine Jackson
www.organiccoloursystems.com
To find out how to become an Organic Colour Systems stockist contact:
e healthierhair@organiccoloursystems.com | t 01590 646462