using the term ‘natural’ because it is no longer accurate to define diamonds as ‘natural’ when it is now possible to create products that have essentially the same optical, physical, and chemical properties as mined diamonds.” One might take that to believe that marketing and advertising a diamond as ‘natural’ is inaccurate and therefore “deceptive”. Of course it’s hogwash; it’s inarguable that diamonds are formed naturally – “existing in or derived from nature; not made or caused by humankind”. Well-known luxury sector market researcher Pam Danziger best illustrates my point about the FTC ruling favouring the synthetic market. Writing for Forbes in August 2018, she observed: “Thanks to the new [FTC] ruling, consumers ultimately are the biggest winners, the mined-diamond industry the biggest losers. Lab-grown diamond marketers can now communicate to consumers clearly, effectively and in simple language what their product is and how it is as good or even better than diamonds that are mined out of the ground through rape and pillage methods.” Ignoring the highly charged language, nothing could have been further from the truth! What followed was a barrage of misinformation (or to use the language of Danziger’s elected president, ‘fake news’) false claims, outrageous exaggerations and, in some cases, lies. Many lab-grown diamond manufacturers went into overdrive with consumer deceptions. Indeed, it reached a level that the FTC was forced to take action against some of the so-called leaders of the lab-grown industry. Unfortunately, the misinformation has not stopped; although I have no doubt that some, or much, of it is caused by the confusion over the FTC’s new Guides. So much for Danzinger’s claim of clear, effective and simple communication by the lab-grown suppliers for the benefit of consumers! (I can’t recall a time where the FTC was forced to act, en masse, against the natural diamond suppliers). As I wrote above: this battle will not be fair, let alone decent. If the purpose of the FTC is to protect consumers against deceptive marketing, then I suggest simplicity is always the best practice. <strong>The</strong> new US nomenclature has only created more confusion because people rely on it only when it suits them. Adding to the confusion, CIBJO and non-US countries have their own, long-held nomenclature, which the FTC’s Guides seem to contradict. Surely the easiest way to protect consumers is to keep nomenclature matter-of-fact. Consumers can easily understand that diamonds from the earth are formed naturally and synthetic diamonds are manufactured, so why not describe them both fairly, as ‘natural’ and ‘man-made’? End of story! Indeed, I have previously made the argument that lab-grown diamonds are not made in laboratories anyway, so why can that “deception” still be allowed? A laboratory is “a room or building equipped for scientific experiments, research, or teaching”. Manmade diamonds are manufactured in factory-like environments through processes no different to other consumer goods. Why is it therefore acceptable for consumers to be led to believe they are made in laboratories? Why do the FTC rules allow for the natural suppliers to be hectored with ‘mined’ and yet allow the deception that synthetic stones are made in ‘laboratories’? Do the lab-grown manufacturers even describe their own large factories as ‘laboratories’? I doubt it; indeed, I know some who refer to the ‘factory’ or (manufacturing) ‘plant’. If the FTC’s mandate is to help prevent deception in marketing then I believe one of the largest deceptions is perpetuating the perception that manmade diamonds are created in scientific laboratories. For these and other reasons, would it not be fairer for everyone if the terms were simply ‘natural diamond’ and ‘man-made diamond’? Wouldn’t consumers immediately understand the provenance of each product? Better still; if the man-made diamond manufacturers truly believe that consumers prefer eco-friendly, sustainable products – as an increasing number do – ‘man-made’ perfectly communicates that message. It says it all, and consumers will know what they’re buying because the manufacturing process can be controlled. It’s an important issue, not merely because of consumer transparency. In this digital age, words have become potent weapons used by groups intent on harming businesses or entire industries. While both diamond sectors need to adapt to an everchanging world, it will be consumers who ultimately decide the outcome of these marketing battles. <strong>The</strong>refore, isn’t it only fair that this ‘war’ plays out on a level playing field? And that’s exactly why we have published <strong>Round</strong> <strong>II</strong> of <strong>The</strong> <strong>Great</strong> <strong>Diamond</strong> <strong>Debate</strong>; as a way of addressing the real issues, not simply accepting half-truths and public relations fairy-floss. <strong>The</strong> jewellery industry must ensure that both sides are treated evenly and uniformly, which is not the case now. And for the record, I believe that highquality man-made diamonds are a great addition to the industry. Room exists for both diamond products and respective sectors will eventually adapt to consumer demand and find their own niches, however this transition should occur with complete transparency and on equal terms – no pun intended. Unfortunately, at the moment, it seems one side is fighting with a hand tied behind its back. i ABOUT THE AUTHOR Coleby Nicholson is publisher and editor of <strong>Jeweller</strong> magazine. He has covered the jewellery industry for more than a decade and specialises in business-to-business aspects of the industry. 12 <strong>Jeweller</strong> December 2019
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