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Jeweller: The Great Diamond Debate - Round II

Facts Vs Marketing: In 2019, both natural and man-made diamonds battled for the hearts and minds of consumers – and the gloves came off. While the dust is far from settled, the question remains: can consumers really make an informed choice in the midst of a marketing barrage and an increasingly confused industry?

Facts Vs Marketing: In 2019, both natural and man-made diamonds battled for the hearts and minds of consumers – and the gloves came off. While the dust is far from settled, the question remains: can consumers really make an informed choice in the midst of a marketing barrage and an increasingly confused industry?

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WORLD FEDERATION OF DIAMOND BOURSES<br />

Keep your diamonds transparent to<br />

avoid misleading consumers<br />

ERNIE BLOM‘S KEY POINTS:<br />

<strong>The</strong> World Federation of <strong>Diamond</strong> Bourses allows member bourses to set their own synthetic diamond trading policy<br />

Synthetic diamond manufacturers must be held to the same strict standards as diamond mining companies<br />

Consumers should be fully informed about the attributes of each product, including environmental impact and resale value<br />

<strong>The</strong> <strong>Great</strong> <strong>Diamond</strong> <strong>Debate</strong> is a very important<br />

conversation that continues to develop. As<br />

president of the World Federation of <strong>Diamond</strong><br />

Bourses (WFDB), the largest global diamond<br />

industry body, there are several relevant points<br />

to be made on behalf of the organisation.<br />

At the outset, let me stress that the WFDB allows each<br />

bourse to make its own decision regarding trading in<br />

synthetics on their premises. For example, the Bharat<br />

<strong>Diamond</strong> Bourse in Mumbai does not allow trading<br />

in such stones.<br />

Meanwhile, the Federation of Belgian <strong>Diamond</strong><br />

Bourses has banned trading of lab-growns in any of<br />

the trading halls of its four exchanges, although it will<br />

still be permitted in private companies’ offices; the<br />

same rule applies at the Israel <strong>Diamond</strong> Exchange.<br />

Earlier this year, a tender of rough synthetics took<br />

place at the Dubai <strong>Diamond</strong> Exchange.<br />

I must also stress that the WFDB has no issue with<br />

synthetics, just as long as they are fully disclosed.<br />

<strong>The</strong>y are clearly a separate niche market, and<br />

whoever wants to buy such stones is, of course,<br />

free to do so.<br />

Would I recommend proposing to a partner with a<br />

synthetic stone? Frankly, I would not, but we are all<br />

free to do what we believe is right.<br />

ENVIRONMENTAL CLAIMS<br />

However, I believe that consumers must be fully<br />

informed on which type of stone they are spending<br />

their money when they buy such a product.<br />

<strong>The</strong>y must know that they are purchasing stones that<br />

are mass-produced in factories and made in a month<br />

or two using large amounts of electricity in order to<br />

create heat and pressure for the production process.<br />

Since most synthetic stones are made in China and<br />

India, where more than 80 per cent of electricity is<br />

generated by burning coal, their carbon footprint is,<br />

necessarily, high.<br />

This is, therefore, at odds with the claims of synthetics<br />

manufacturers who have described their products as<br />

being ‘eco-friendly’ in order to appeal, in particular, to<br />

Millennial consumers. It is only right that this should<br />

not go unchallenged.<br />

This is also in the interest of the synthetic diamond<br />

manufacturers themselves, who face being ‘caught<br />

out’ by consumers searching for detailed information<br />

about the manner in which the stone they bought<br />

was made.<br />

<strong>The</strong> WFDB is in favour of complete transparency<br />

regarding diamond mining and this must also be the<br />

standard of the synthetics manufacturers, regarding<br />

production processes.<br />

We accept that diamond mining also has an<br />

environmental impact and miners must use<br />

more renewable energy sources and reduce their<br />

carbon emissions.<br />

In this respect, I would point to the efforts of De<br />

Beers, which is investing in technology to store<br />

carbon in the rocks at mines, and aiming to create its<br />

first carbon-neutral pit.<br />

Clearly, this is still some way from happening, but the<br />

very fact that it is taking place shows the concern of<br />

diamond miners for the environment and climate<br />

change. And with De Beers leading the way, it is likely<br />

that other companies will follow suit.<br />

COST AND VALUE<br />

Another important point that buyers of synthetics<br />

should bear in mind is that the production cost of<br />

these stones is declining continuously. What this<br />

means, in practice, is that they have little inherent<br />

value on the day they are bought and practically no<br />

resale value.<br />

Let us compare that with diamonds from the Earth,<br />

which are billions of years old and have proved for<br />

thousands of years that they retain their value – and,<br />

indeed, can increase with time.<br />

This is the reason that they are handed down from<br />

generation to generation: not simply because of<br />

their sentimental value, but because of their financial<br />

value as well.<br />

I believe it would be fair and accurate to say that this<br />

is unlikely to happen with a synthetic diamond.<br />

And, finally, I would point out that it is important to<br />

keep in perspective the impact of synthetics.<br />

Although the media coverage has been high,<br />

synthetic stones are still a very small part of annual<br />

global polished supply: around 2–4 per cent of the<br />

approximate $US19 billion in polished sales per year.<br />

As I mentioned above, it is incumbent on both the<br />

diamond industry and the synthetic manufacturers to<br />

be completely transparent and honest in marketing<br />

and selling.<br />

This is most certainly the approach that we are taking,<br />

and we hope that the synthetic diamond companies<br />

will do likewise. i<br />

ABOUT THE AUTHOR<br />

Ernie Blom is president of the World<br />

Federation of <strong>Diamond</strong> Bourses (WFDB) and<br />

serves on CIBJO’s Presidents Council. He is a<br />

lifelong member of the diamond industry.<br />

December 2019 <strong>Jeweller</strong> 29

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