Annual-Report-2019

GRAPE METABOLOMICS & CELL COSMETICS
The research project “Grape Metabolomics & Cell Cosmetics” focuses on the
metabolomics screening of ancient, rare grape varieties from Loire Valley for
the development of plant cell lines producing active cosmetics.
Dr Magdalena
Malinowska
LE STUDIUM Guest Research Fellow
ARD 2020 COSMETOSCIENCE Programme
From: Cracow University of Technology - PL
In residence at: Biomolecule and Plant
Biotechnology (BBV) - Tours
Nationality: Polish
Dates: October 2019 to October 2020
Doctor Magdalena Malinowska works as an
Assistant Professor at Cracow University of
Technology, the Faculty of Chemical Engineering
and Technology. Her PhD thesis was based on the
synthesis of novel triterpenes as potential active
substances for skin regeneration. Her research
was focused on natural and semisynthetic
molecules which have potential as active
ingredients for topical application. She has the
experience in organic synthesis, various extraction
techniques, compounds purification and the
analytical methods (UPLC-MS, NMR, IR UV/VIS),
determination of active substances biological
activity, evaluation of skin permeability and the
safety evaluation for chemical substances. She is
focused of natural sources of active ingredients.
Moreover, her professional experience covers also
the technology of modern cosmetic formulations,
allowing for encapsulation of natural active
substances.
Various grape cultivars present a remarkable diversity of original natural
substances capable of being valued by the cosmetic and dermatological
sectors. Grape extracts enriched with natural antioxidant substances can be
used as natural preservatives or also as cosmetic active ingredients.
Today, high-throughput biochemical analysis techniques such as
metabolomics make it possible to understand this remarkable complexity
of natural vine products. A first step in this project will be to carry out a
metabolic mapping of ancient regional grape varieties in order to assess
their potential in cosmetic active ingredients.
In a second phase, we will propose how
to initiate in vitro culture processes
applied to rare or extinct Loire Valley
grape varieties. This exploratory work
will provide access to rare or ancient
plant material that has the potential to
produce natural substances of original
cosmetic interest compared to the
grape varieties conventionally used.
Samples of 107 grape cultivars,
including six rare cultivars from
Loire Valley region, were collected in
October 2019 from the grape collection
maintained by URGC (Union pour les
Ressources Génétiques du Centre).
Berries and leaves are being prepared for a metabolomics screening targeted
on polyphenols and stilbenoids.
First results of the composition of berries and leaves (rare cultivars compared
to the selected common ones) have been obtained. In January, grape canes,
representing the winter by-products of viticulture, have been also harvest
from the very large grape genetic collection for a further metabolomics
screening.
Life & Health Sciences 2019
46
Dr Arnaud Lanoue
Host scientist
Doctor Arnaud Lanoue is Assistant Professor at
University of Tours, BBV Laboratory (Laboratoire
Biomolécules et Biotechnologies Végétales EA2106).
He is the author of numerous publications concerning
plant metabolomics analysis and screening of
natural products with biological activities. His
professional experience covers the development of
bio-based active ingredients for various applications
using methods derived from green chemistry. His
research is currently focused on the molecular
diversity in grapevine in relation to different genetic
in environmental factors. Carring out a metabolic
mapping of various grape varieties, including rare
species, will allow to multiply rare or ancient grape
varieties to their future exploitation. Doctor Arnaud
Lanoue applies high-throughput biochemical analysis
techniques such as metabolomics which allow to
grasp remarkable complexity of natural vine products.
His scientific studies have shown that European vines
have a specific biomolecule composition which is
linked to their genetic background.