Adventure Magazine Issue 220
Issue 220: June/July Winter 2020
Issue 220: June/July
Winter 2020
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N E W Z E A L A N D<br />
ADVENTURE<br />
WHERE ACTIONS SPEAK LOUDER THAN WORDS<br />
WINTER<br />
BENEATH THE ICE<br />
ISSUE <strong>220</strong><br />
JUNE/JULY 2020<br />
NZ $10.90 incl. GST<br />
HOME GROWN<br />
EXPLORING THE CENTRAL PLATEAU
#firstincraft<br />
McCashin's Brewery<br />
660 Main Road, Stoke, Nelson, New Zealand<br />
T:+64 3 547 5357<br />
E: orders@mccashins.co.nz @stokebeer<br />
Looking for the positives...<br />
Over the last few months, we have seen massive change; to our lifestyle,<br />
communities, and economy. It’s easy to throw out platitudes about ‘silver<br />
linings’, but the reality is there are a lot of people, friends and associates whose<br />
businesses have been devastated, years of work undermined. Now a murky<br />
grey future of uncertainty still awaits them. Sure there are positives as in every<br />
situation, but we need to look squarely at the future and know that what was in<br />
the past will not be coming back any time soon – if ever.<br />
But it is equally important to look at that which does not change – here at<br />
<strong>Adventure</strong> we were astounded by the support that our online ‘free to the world’<br />
issue received, which we brought out mid-COVID. I would love to say it was<br />
carefully planned, but it wasn’t, it was us thinking on our feet trying to find the<br />
best way forward. We sat daily bewildered by the number of people who read the<br />
magazine. At one stage it was being read once every 25 seconds (you can follow<br />
the link at the bottom if you wish to see that issue).<br />
In a time of ‘whoa what’s coming next’ we had this beacon of positive<br />
reaction. Regardless of what the world throws up, we are committed to an active<br />
and adventurous lifestyle. Now more than ever, we generally believe that seeking<br />
that adventures lifestyle is vital for us all. It makes us healthier, both physically<br />
and mentally, it strengthens our environment and communities. We live in one<br />
of the most incredible places on earth, and for every one of us, <strong>Adventure</strong> is<br />
accessible.<br />
I am sure by the time you read this; we will be in Level One – embrace<br />
all that it has to offer; visit local, buy local, and invest locally. Be an advocate<br />
for your friends and family and encourage them to venture out. If they lack<br />
confidence, then use one of the agencies that will introduce them and their family<br />
safely to the outdoors.<br />
You will see throughout this issue a new second logo associated<br />
with <strong>Adventure</strong> called Taiao – it’s the simple symbol of a nikau palm and<br />
the word ‘Taiao’ which means environment. It is time for us to grasp our<br />
own environment. We can be proud of what kiwis have achieved through<br />
this COVID experience, how it’s been overcome, how we have been<br />
supportive of each other and how we have set a standard for the world.<br />
Its now time to take that to another level and show the world how we as<br />
kiwi can invest finically, emotionally and physically in our own Taiao our<br />
own environment, because it is that investment locally, is what we can<br />
control, what we can count on, that will give the most reward to both us<br />
and our community for the future.<br />
Steve Dickinson - Editor<br />
#<strong>220</strong><br />
Will Gadd ice climbs in a moulin on the Greenland ice cap<br />
near Ilulissat, Greenland.<br />
Image by Christian Pondella/Red Bull Content Pool<br />
EDITOR & ADVERTISING MANAGER<br />
Steve Dickinson<br />
Mob: 027 577 5014<br />
steve@pacificmedia.co.nz<br />
ART DIRECTOR<br />
Lynne Dickinson<br />
design@pacificmedia.co.nz<br />
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PUBLISHERS<br />
NZ <strong>Adventure</strong> <strong>Magazine</strong> is published six times a year by:<br />
Pacific Media Ltd, P.O.Box 562<br />
Whangaparaoa, New Zealand<br />
Ph: 0275775014<br />
Email: steve@pacificmedia.co.nz<br />
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loss or damage which may result from any inaccuracy or omission in this publication, or from<br />
the use of information contained herein and the publishers make no warranties, expressed or<br />
implied, with respect to any of the material contained herein.<br />
www.adventuretraveller.co.nz<br />
Exploring Bad<br />
Lands National<br />
Park, South<br />
Dakota... Now<br />
looking forward to<br />
exploring my own<br />
back yard.<br />
Proud to be Kiwi!<br />
JOBS<br />
www.adventurejobs.co.nz<br />
www.adventuremagazine.co.nz<br />
Digital, Hardcopy, Web, Social<br />
ADVENTUREMAGAZINE.CO.NZ 01
page 08<br />
Introducing the<br />
RIDGEVENT<br />
Perfect cold weather insulation for every body.<br />
www.merrell.co.nz<br />
Image by River Valley Lodge Image compliments of MSC Image by Daniel Price<br />
Image by Red Bull<br />
page 16<br />
page 24<br />
page 36<br />
#<strong>220</strong><br />
contents<br />
08//Beneath the Ice<br />
Will Gadd explores Greenland's ice cap<br />
16//Aoraki/Mt Cook<br />
Getting ready to revisit our favourite places<br />
22//Alps to Ocean<br />
Why do it guided, even if you're a Kiwi?<br />
24//Avalanche Awareness<br />
Staying safe on the snow<br />
28//Playing safe<br />
Explore the backcountry safely<br />
32//The Day we Left<br />
When surfing and snow collide<br />
36//Home Grown<br />
Exploring the Central Plateau<br />
78//<strong>Adventure</strong> Van Life<br />
• It's cool to travel when it's cool<br />
• Live for AdVANture<br />
98//<strong>Adventure</strong> travel<br />
• New Caledonia<br />
• Vanuatu<br />
plus<br />
86. gear guides<br />
95. subs<br />
106. Active adventure<br />
FOLLOW US ON<br />
www.facebook.com/adventuremagnz<br />
adventuremagazine<br />
www.adventuremagazine.co.nz<br />
Nzadventuremag<br />
JOIN THE CONVERSATION<br />
#ADVENTUREMAGAZINE<br />
We know the dance that is winter hiking with a pack so we used heat-mapping to study<br />
the way different bodies regulate heat while hiking in order to build the Ridgevent.<br />
+<br />
GENDER-SPECIFIC DESIGN.<br />
Heat-mapping shows that men retain<br />
heat longer than women, so we’ve<br />
increased the ratio of ventilation<br />
to insulation in men’s styles.<br />
Pictured: Men’s Ridgevent Hybrid Jacket / Sailor Blue<br />
Many Paths. One Trail.<br />
+<br />
DOWNPLUS+ INSULATION.<br />
Blending 65% responsibly sourced,<br />
waterproof goose down and 35%<br />
ultra fine Primaloft synthetic<br />
fibers for warmth even when wet.<br />
+<br />
ENGINEERED BACK BAFFLES.<br />
Alleviates overheating with a<br />
baffle construction that provides<br />
warmth where you need it and<br />
breathability when it matters.<br />
............................................................................................ ................<br />
02//WHERE ACTIONS SPEAK LOUDER THAN WORDS/#<strong>220</strong><br />
Takapuna Whangamata Christchurch Queenstown
BEHIND THE COVER<br />
Photographer Christian Pondella, explains taking the cover shot while on<br />
an expedition with Will Gadd to Greenland. See page 10 for the full story.<br />
"In this kind of environment pretty much anyone with a camera or a phone<br />
can take a really amazing photo because it’s such an amazing place, so<br />
as a pro photographer you’ve got to find ways to exceed that. You’ve got<br />
to be dynamic, evaluate the situation and give depth, use foreground,<br />
middle ground, background, tr to do something that evoked emotion ,puts<br />
the viewer into the picture, use dramatic lines and shadows, and then<br />
draw them into the subject.<br />
On this shoot, sometimes it was just a matter of hanging on a rope taking<br />
photos, going up and down to line things up differently, shooting into the<br />
light to make it dramatic, moody, bright and colourful. You always have<br />
ideas before a shoot but you always end up changing your plan.<br />
Every time I do a project with Will it turns out to be wild and adventurous. I<br />
knew this one would be a tonne of fun and produce some amazing photos<br />
and it turned out to be one of the coolest adventures I’ve ever been on."<br />
COCKTAIL ON THE ROCK<br />
Here is an Irish whiskey<br />
that apparently will make<br />
you think twice about it.<br />
The engaging backstory<br />
behind the birth of the<br />
Glendalough distillery,<br />
was created by friends<br />
from Wicklow and<br />
Dublin, with a desire to<br />
set up a craft distillery<br />
in Ireland to reflect the<br />
heritage of the gone<br />
by distilleries. They<br />
took a risk by giving<br />
up their jobs and created a distillery in the Glendalough mountains,<br />
which was a favourite spot. Coupled with the sweet notes of cherry,<br />
raisins, and fig flavour notes of the award winning double barrel<br />
Irish whiskey, it was the right choice to use with a combination of<br />
persimmon, pear, citrus and ginger. The tasting team commented<br />
on the fruity, sweet but smooth whiskey flavour that shone through.<br />
It was described as heavenly even when mixed with other fruit burst<br />
flavour notes. Have you tried this whiskey?<br />
• Muddle persimmon and pear together<br />
• Add a few drops of essential black pepper oil thanks to @<br />
crazyoilchicksnz<br />
• 2 jigger Glendalough Double Barrel Irish Whiskey @glendalough<br />
• 1 jigger freshly squeezed lemon juice<br />
• Bar spoon of Stones ginger wine<br />
• Shake with ice, pour into glass and top up with a no sugar ginger<br />
beer, and garnish with dehydrated pear and a matching rose.<br />
Approx 10 carbs per serve<br />
Follow Sue on Instagram: @cocktailontherock<br />
To sign up for the weekly newsletter: www.cocktailontherock.co.nz
70,000 followers can't be wrong<br />
JOIN THE CONVERSATION<br />
06//WHERE ACTIONS SPEAK LOUDER THAN WORDS/#<strong>220</strong><br />
@ adventuremagazine<br />
@ adventuretraveller @ adventurevanlifenz
Beneath the Ice<br />
In the remote, icy wilderness on the<br />
Greenland ice cap, a gaping hole marked<br />
the spot where climber Will Gadd and his<br />
support crew and film team would descend<br />
into the unknown. A moulin is basically a<br />
giant hole in a glacier, created when surface<br />
water finds its way into a crack in the ice and<br />
melts through. And in this dream project,<br />
the plan was to climb into one and go deep<br />
inside the Greenland ice cap to a place<br />
nobody has ever been before.<br />
Story and Images courtsey Redbull<br />
What they discovered was a sparklingly<br />
beautiful, but terrifying 90m-deep cavern,<br />
with a roof made of hundreds of tonnes of<br />
cracking, creaking and groaning ice.<br />
Having become the first person to ice climb<br />
up Niagara Falls, Will Gadd is no stranger<br />
to perilous situations. But the Canadian<br />
adventurer undertook his biggest and most<br />
dangerous challenge in Beneath the Ice, an<br />
exploration within the Greenland Ice Cap<br />
with the aim of collecting global warming<br />
data. Will tells us what motivates him to<br />
embark on such a journey…<br />
8//WHERE ACTIONS SPEAK LOUDER THAN WORDS/#<strong>220</strong>
Camp at the Greenland ice cap near Ilulissat, Greenland<br />
Image by Christian Pondella/Red Bull Content Pool<br />
"Curiosity, more than any other emotion or motivation, has always<br />
pushed me forward. It has taken me to the edge of human understanding<br />
and ability, a place that gets me up in the morning.<br />
The excitement of answering “what would happen if we…” first drove<br />
me to explore caves in my teens around the same time that curiosity<br />
introduced me to ice climbing. I hooked up with an older crew of cavers<br />
who brought me along primarily because I could squeeze my skinny<br />
frame through holes that they couldn’t. We’d move through the rock<br />
thousands of feet below the mountains, and then they’d send in “the<br />
probe”. I’d squeeze into places no human had ever been, all because it<br />
was wildly interesting and scratched the raw itch of curiosity.<br />
Lately, more than three decades after my first caving experiences,<br />
my worlds of ice climbing and caving have collided. Yet again, it was<br />
curiosity: what is down those moulins, those big holes in the glacier?<br />
Maybe it was time to send in “the probe” once again.<br />
I researched what was known about glacial caves, and that took me to<br />
Professor Martin Sharp at the University of Alberta. Together we worked<br />
under the Athabasca Glacier, and found new life forms growing inside the<br />
glacier.<br />
I kept digging on the research front and wound up in contact with<br />
Professor Jason Gulley, one of the top experts on glacial caves in the<br />
world. Together we hatched a plan for what would become Beneath the<br />
Ice, a project that pushed me further than any other project I’ve ever<br />
done.<br />
Come the summer of 2018, I was learning how to cave dive in Florida<br />
with Gulley. Why? Because our plan involved going deeping into the<br />
Greenland ice cap than anyone had ever gone before, and to do that,<br />
we were planning to dive once we hit the water table inside the glacier.<br />
When we emerged from the depths of the ice sheet, we hoped to have a<br />
better understanding of how the ice cap ultimately moves and melts.<br />
RIGHT: Topside view as Will Gadd<br />
descends into a moulin on the Greenland<br />
ice cap near Ilulissat, Greenland<br />
Image by Christian Pondella<br />
Red Bull Content Pool<br />
10//WHERE ACTIONS SPEAK LOUDER THAN WORDS/#<strong>220</strong> ADVENTUREMAGAZINE.CO.NZ 11
Will Gadd and Jason Gulley inside a moulin on the Greenland ice cap near Ilulissat, Greenland<br />
Image by Christian Pondella/Red Bull Content Pool<br />
We took two trips to Greenland, that made up the Beneath the Ice project:<br />
the first took place in August, where we identified the moulin we hope to<br />
explore further; the second took place in October, where we hoped to put<br />
our full scope of ambitious exploration into action…"<br />
Will and Professor Jason Gulley reached the ice floor where they planned<br />
to dive however, with massive blocks of ice falling from the ceiling above<br />
they were forced to pull out of the dive. They still achieved a vital insight<br />
into understanding how global warming works and what happens to rivers<br />
of melted ice and rising sea levels.<br />
Joining them to capture the event was photographer, Christian Pondella. He<br />
explains the trip from his perspective…<br />
"Wherever there’s surface water on a glacier there will be a moulin nearby,<br />
but this one was special because it had a big opening facing the same way<br />
as the prevailing wind. That meant the snow would block up the entrance<br />
while we were inside. Obviously, that was pretty important.<br />
Just getting out there was an adventure. It was a half-hour heli flight from<br />
Ilulissat, with amazing views and then we were dropped off in the middle<br />
of this ice desert. Just flat ice, as far as you can see. Totally surreal. When<br />
we first dripped into the moulin, we found this giant amphitheatre. It was<br />
stunning, with tonnes of overhanging ice. We were in the fall zone most of<br />
the time, which was pretty nerve wracking.<br />
One day there was a big temperature drop and you could hear cracking<br />
around us as we stood on the ice cap. When you go into a cavern like this<br />
you’re extremely exposed, so you’ve got to continually look for signs of<br />
instability. We all saw them, so we took the day off. It turned out we made<br />
the right call. The next day, when things got more stable, we went back in<br />
and at the bottom, where we’d been standing two days before, there were<br />
huge chunks of fallen ice. Massive. That was eerie and scary. If we’d been<br />
down there the day before, well…"<br />
RIGHT: Looking back as Will Gadd<br />
descends into a moulin on the Greenland<br />
ice cap near Ilulissat, Greenland<br />
Image by Christian Pondella<br />
Red Bull Content Pool<br />
12//WHERE ACTIONS SPEAK LOUDER THAN WORDS/#<strong>220</strong> ADVENTUREMAGAZINE.CO.NZ 13
"When we first dripped<br />
into the moulin, we found<br />
this giant amphitheatre. It<br />
was stunning, with tonnes<br />
of overhanging ice. We<br />
were in the fall zone most<br />
of the time, which was<br />
pretty nerve wracking."<br />
ALL DAY, EVERYDAY<br />
DREW DREW JOLOWICZ<br />
POWGLOVES.COM / /@POWGLOVES / / P: P: TOSHI PANDER<br />
14//WHERE ACTIONS SPEAK LOUDER THAN WORDS/#<strong>220</strong>
"The real joy of hiking up this<br />
far is to experience the mountain<br />
during the many stages of the<br />
day and night. From listening<br />
to avalanches crash in the<br />
distance and the beauty of the<br />
uninterrupted night sky, through<br />
to the sight of dawn over the<br />
ranges the following morning, are<br />
all reasons to stay overnight."<br />
Looking back through old photo albums uncovered one of my favourite hikes to Meuller Hut in Aoraki Mt Cook National Park<br />
L-R: Taking a break at the start of the climb to Sealy Tarns and Meuller Hut | Our crew at the start of the track in Aoraki Mt Cook village<br />
included two Kiwis, two Canadians, two Aussies and one American | Jai Ralls on the trail to Meuller Hut<br />
Aoraki/Mt Cook<br />
Words by Lynne Dickinson<br />
Aoraki/Mount Cook National Park<br />
Located in the central part of the South<br />
Island, Aoraki/Mount Cook is the highest<br />
mountain in New Zealand. It boasts 19<br />
peaks over 3000m with Aoraki/Mount Cook<br />
standing at 3,724m tall.<br />
Climbing the mountain is a technical<br />
challenge crossing large crevasses with<br />
a risk of rock and ice falls, avalanches<br />
and rapidly changing weather conditions.<br />
The first attempt to climb the highest peak<br />
was in 1882 by two Swiss climbers and it<br />
is believed they came within 50m of the<br />
summit and it was successfully summited<br />
in 1894 when New Zealanders Tom Fyfe,<br />
John Michael Clarke and George Graham<br />
reached the top.<br />
Unfortunately, Aoraki/Mount Cook, is also<br />
NZ's most deadliest mountain, with over 80<br />
people perishing on it’s slopes.<br />
However, the area is not just about<br />
extreme mountaineering. There are plenty<br />
of activities for all levels of fitness and<br />
technical ability and you’ll find something to<br />
challenge you in this National Park.<br />
Meuller Hut<br />
As people were coming to grips with the<br />
travel restrictions imposed during the<br />
Covid-19 epidemic and the loss of their<br />
potential overseas travel plans, the focus<br />
turned to New Zealand and what we<br />
have to offer the intrepid traveller and the<br />
adventurer at heart.<br />
The strange thing is, that for overseas<br />
visitors, New Zealand is considered the<br />
adventure capital of the world, yet we often<br />
look overseas first for our next adventure.<br />
So while in isolation, as most New<br />
Zealanders did I am sure, I got to sorting<br />
out the spare bedroom and came across<br />
photo albums from back in the day.<br />
One of the things that struck me most about<br />
them was that most of my adventures<br />
in my 20’s were located in New Zealand<br />
(possibly because I didn’t have the funds<br />
to travel back then). I have since travelled<br />
extensively abroad and it made me realise<br />
how much we have to offer here at home,<br />
and I vowed that no matter whether the<br />
travel restrictions at our borders were lifted<br />
or not, I would not be so hasty to head<br />
overseas before I rediscovered what we<br />
had on our doorstep.<br />
"The faded images brought back<br />
memories of a summer spent<br />
road tripping around New<br />
Zealand with a backpack, a tent,<br />
a sleeping bag and a great group<br />
of friends (many who had come<br />
from overseas)."<br />
One lot of photos that stood out from my many<br />
slightly faded albums was taken on the Meuller<br />
Hut track in the South Island in Aoraki, Mt Cook<br />
National Park. The faded images brought back<br />
memories of a summer spent road tripping<br />
around New Zealand with a backpack, a tent,<br />
a sleeping bag and a great group of friends<br />
(many who had come from overseas). One of<br />
the things I remember most clearly about that<br />
hike to Meuller hut, was sleeping in our tent at<br />
night listening to the sound of the snow cracking<br />
on the mountains around us as avalanches<br />
fell throughout the night. It was an incredible<br />
experience.<br />
So the plan is to return to the scene of these<br />
photos and relive some of those experiences.<br />
This time we will be a little older (25 years older<br />
to be precise) and we’ll be a little slower. We<br />
may need to carry with us some self inflating air<br />
mattresses and even a pillow, however I am sure<br />
we’ll enjoy it just as much. I am looking forward<br />
to seeing how much has changed in the years<br />
since we last visited, but I am hoping, with the<br />
absence of people over the past few months,<br />
that nature has had a chance to restore itself to<br />
its original glory. I will let you know what we find,<br />
but in the meantime, here’s some information so<br />
you too can plan for your next NZ adventure to<br />
this beautiful part of our country.<br />
Right:Sunset at Aoraki Mt Cook, Image by WIll Turner<br />
ADVENTUREMAGAZINE.CO.NZ 17
The image above taken 25 years ago in 1995, not far from Meuller Hut.<br />
The image on the right, taken at the same spot by Jamie Davies in 2018<br />
Meuller Hut Track, Mt Cook (moderate to advanced)<br />
This is the one we did, but as you can see by the photos, we were a lot<br />
younger and therefore found it a lot easier than I would now.<br />
Length: 5.2km one way<br />
Duration: 4 hours one way<br />
Meuller Hut: 28 bunk beds with mats, cooking gas and burners, drop toilets,<br />
and running (but non-treated) water. The Mueller Hut costs $45 NZD per<br />
person per night for adults, $22.50 for kids 5 to 17 years old, under 5 free.<br />
Season: The track is open year round however, the best time of year to<br />
attempt the Meuller Hut route is from December through to April, due to the<br />
more settled weather. However don’t expect it to be hot, you are in alpine<br />
conditions and temperatures range between 8-14 degrees Celcius. Be<br />
prepared for all weather conditions; rain, strong winds and even snow. The<br />
rest of the year, deep snow covers most of the track making it more difficult<br />
to walk as well as increasing the risks of avalanches. The thing to remember<br />
is that this is an alpine walk and if you want it to be enjoyable and safe, then<br />
wait for a good weather window and make sure you are well prepared with<br />
the correct clothing and shelter. Do not be fooled by the seemingly short<br />
distance to the hut, the 5.2km rises 1000km in elevation, which is the reason<br />
the estimated time to walk the short distance is around 4 hours.<br />
The walk: As my memory is a little hazy<br />
from doing this walk 25 years ago, I<br />
consulted the Mountain Safety Councils<br />
website, read a few articles and watched<br />
a great trail information video. One of<br />
the things I concluded, for my personal<br />
journey to revisit this track, is that I have<br />
to do this in good weather. The area is<br />
subject to snowfall all year round and<br />
parts of the track are exposed to high<br />
winds, so this is something I would not<br />
feel comfortable undertaking in less than<br />
ideal weather conditions. For those of you<br />
more accustomed to inclement weather,<br />
I am sure you will enjoy the experience<br />
regardless of the weather, but for me, not<br />
so much.<br />
The main difficulty in this is if you want to<br />
stay in Meuller Hut you need to book well<br />
in advance, so fitting it in with weather<br />
conditions is not always easy. 25 years<br />
ago we carried a tent and found a bit of<br />
flat ground to sleep near the hut, this way<br />
we could be spontaneous and picked a<br />
day when the weather was just perfect.<br />
I’m not sure how keen my friends will be<br />
reliving the experience in its entirety but I’ll<br />
keep you posted on how it goes.<br />
The Meuller Hut route begins at the<br />
Aoraki, Mt Cook village, outside the visitor<br />
center, but do not let that fool you into<br />
thinking this is another walk in the park, so<br />
to speak. It begins on a well established<br />
track called the Kea Point Track, which is<br />
an easy 2km walk up the valley through<br />
alpine meadows and native bush. Enjoy<br />
this section as you will then turn off onto<br />
Sealy Tarns track, and this is where the<br />
going gets tough.<br />
The track zigzags steeply up around 2000<br />
steps and rises 520m till it reaches Sealy<br />
Tarns, the halfway point. The track is<br />
exposed and quite steep in places so you<br />
may need to be able to use your hands as<br />
support on the way up, but trust me when<br />
I say the view from the Tarns is worth<br />
every step. You will get hot walking up,<br />
regardless of the weather, so take plenty<br />
of time to shed and re-layer as you reach<br />
the top and rest.<br />
The tarns are a good spot to break for<br />
lunch and is also a good time to reassess<br />
your plans. If you found the first bit hard<br />
it only gets more technical, so it’s a point<br />
where you have to decide whether to<br />
continue or to turn back. Keep in mind the<br />
fitness of your overall group and make<br />
sure you are all honest with how you are<br />
feeling and make a sensible decision.<br />
There is no shame in<br />
turning round at this point.<br />
If you decide not to go any<br />
further, you simply retrace<br />
your steps and return the<br />
way you came.<br />
For those of you who decide to carry<br />
on you’ll notice the track becomes less<br />
defined and you must keep an eye out<br />
for the orange poles that mark the route.<br />
The key is to make sure you spot the next<br />
marker pole before leaving the one you<br />
are at, easy to do on a fine clear day, but<br />
not so easy if you have limited visibility.<br />
The terrain is mainly tussock and boulders<br />
and in places you will need to use your<br />
hands to scramble over rocky steps.<br />
The last section is through a scree rock<br />
face with loose footing and you need to<br />
take care on this section. Once you reach<br />
the top, follow along the ridge until you<br />
reach Meuller Hut.<br />
The first ever hut here was built in 1914,<br />
and since then the harsh conditions and<br />
even an avalanche has meant there have<br />
been four more built. The most recent one<br />
was opened in July 2003 by Sir Edmund<br />
Hillary, and is situated just below Mt<br />
Ollivier – the first mountain Sir Edmund<br />
climbed. Considering the last time we<br />
climbed this track was in 1995 the hut is<br />
one change we’ll see for sure.<br />
Although some people treat the hike as<br />
a day trip (crazy if you ask me), the real<br />
joy of hiking up this far is to experience<br />
the mountain during the many stages<br />
of the day and night. From listening to<br />
avalanches crash in the distance and<br />
the beauty of the uninterrupted night<br />
sky through to the sight of dawn over<br />
the ranges the following morning, are all<br />
reasons to stay overnight.<br />
For those of us who have a few more<br />
years under our belts, it’s often the walk<br />
down that we find harder. Knees that<br />
have been injured from years of outdoor<br />
sports and activities can suffer under<br />
the pressure of walking down so I would<br />
recommend the use of walking poles.<br />
Although they won’t be any help when<br />
clambering over rocks, they can definitely<br />
reduce the pressure on your knees when<br />
walking down.<br />
If Meuller Hut hike seems a tad too<br />
challenging, try the Hooker Valley Track.<br />
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"This is one of the most<br />
popular tracks in the<br />
National Park, with<br />
roughly a 100m change in<br />
elevation the walking is<br />
relatively easy."<br />
Hooker Valley Track (easy trail)<br />
Length: 10km one way<br />
Duration: 3 hours return<br />
Season: The track is open year round but the<br />
best time to go is at dawn when the rays creep<br />
over the Southern Alps, including Mt Cook.<br />
The Walk: This is one of the most popular<br />
tracks in the National Park, with roughly a<br />
100m change in elevation the walking is<br />
relatively easy. This track starts from the White<br />
Horse Campground but you can begin from the<br />
information center in the village (just add an<br />
extra 30 minutes each way). The start of the<br />
track will take you through open grassland and<br />
passes close to Freda’s rock and the Alpine<br />
Memorial.<br />
Freda du Faur was the first woman to climb<br />
Aoraki/Mt Cook in 1910 and the rock is where<br />
she had her photo taken on her completion.<br />
Three years later she completed the Grand<br />
Traverse (all three peaks) of Aoraki/Mt Cook<br />
and Freda’s ROck is the site where her now<br />
famous photo was taken just after her first<br />
successful ascent of the mountain.<br />
The Alpine Memorial is dedicated to the lives<br />
lost on Aoraki/Mt Cook. The plaque reads, "I<br />
am not gone – I am in these mountains, I am<br />
in the stars, I am all around you, always near,<br />
never far."<br />
Both are just a stroll off the main trail.<br />
From here the track crosses the first of three<br />
suspension bridges over the Meuller River just<br />
below the Meuller Glacier Lake and continues<br />
to weave back and forth before crossing the<br />
river again, this time above the lake. Here the<br />
track opens to a wide valley where you will<br />
gain your first view of Aoraki/Mt Cook. This<br />
view will be visible for the rest of the trail, so<br />
enjoy.<br />
If you are walking between December and<br />
February you are likely to see large daisies<br />
amongst the foliage and the Mt Cook Lily,<br />
which both flower during these months.<br />
Continue walking up the valley until you reach<br />
the boardwalk, which has been established<br />
where the valley floor becomes swampy.<br />
Continue up the boardwalk until you reach the<br />
final suspension bridge before climbing above<br />
the height of the moraine wall to a picnic area<br />
with views over Hooker Lake. In summer you’ll<br />
likely see icebergs floating in the lake, whereas<br />
in the cold winter months the lake can freeze<br />
over completely.<br />
The lookout point at the end of the Hooker<br />
Valley track is the closest any walking track will<br />
take you to Aoraki/Mt Cook itself.<br />
Return the way you came and enjoy views<br />
down the valley and over the Sealy Range.<br />
Image by Tyler Lastovich
Alps to Ocean Cycle<br />
Why do it guided, even if you’re a Kiwi<br />
Words by Elaina Culbert and Natalie Tambolash - Images by Elaina Culbert<br />
At a time where the world is closed to<br />
international travel, it is time to delve<br />
into those close to home adventures and<br />
support local. Quite often, us Kiwis wouldn’t<br />
dream of doing a guided or supported<br />
trip here in NZ – we seem to have that “I<br />
can do it” attitude. Elaina was one such<br />
Kiwi. She would have placed herself in the<br />
self-guided category before this, but after<br />
cycling the A2O trail with her partner Tina,<br />
it’s safe to say she’s had a change of heart.<br />
Alps to Ocean Day 1 and my Word is<br />
#Hot: We drove in sweltering heat and<br />
started our first ride not far from Fairlie and<br />
ended the day riding around the Tekapo<br />
bike park plus got to have a favourite,<br />
Emerson’s pilsner on tap! We are travelling<br />
with two lovely Aussie guys and our tour<br />
guide is amazing!<br />
Alps to Ocean Day 2: Day 2 took us from<br />
Tekapo to Twizel with a bonus explore<br />
towards Aoraki/Mt Cook. Stunning scenery<br />
and enjoyable once out of the insane wind!<br />
Alps to Ocean Day 3 and my Word<br />
is #Celebrate: What a way to spend a<br />
birthday! We departed Twizel in high spirits.<br />
About half an hour in, the rain came. We<br />
TRAVEL NZ, SUPPORT LOCAL<br />
Image: Rebecca Ryan<br />
The Alps 2 Ocean Cycle is the longest continuous ride in New Zealand. The trail descends<br />
over 2000ft and travels 300km to the coastal town of Oamaru passing through glacial-fed<br />
lakes, golden grasslands and limestone cliffs until it reaches the Pacific Ocean. The Alps<br />
2 Ocean Cycle trail is a one way ride, so you’ll need to have a way of being dropped off<br />
at the start point. There are quite a few companies that offer this service if you don’t have<br />
someone who can do this for you.<br />
We caught up with Elaina Culbert who recently completed the Alps 2 Ocean (commonly<br />
known as A2O) with World Expeditions.<br />
made it the first 20k where our amazing<br />
guide was waiting with a hot cuppa and a<br />
bday cake surprise. What a great team we<br />
are with. The ride around Lake Ohau was<br />
stunning in the misty, majestic scenery.<br />
The track flowed beautifully. The rain came<br />
harder. We celebrated making it to Ohau<br />
lodge and it was a relief to have a complete<br />
change of clothes. A beautiful platter was<br />
served and we celebrated again with a<br />
bday bubbles.<br />
Next was the big climb over the saddle. It<br />
was a day of determination. The rain set<br />
in harder and the temp dropped. We were<br />
soaked to the bone and FREEZING! As we<br />
descended the other side the track became<br />
a steady stream of water. By this stage<br />
we just had to have faith that the ground<br />
underneath was solid!<br />
Finally made it to the next meeting point<br />
where a warm van was waiting. We had<br />
done 60k and celebrated our achievement.<br />
Did we decide to pull out and take shelter?<br />
Hell no, “let’s knock this off” Tina grins, so<br />
off we go for another 20k of swallowing<br />
mud! It was the best feeling to arrive tired,<br />
numb and cold, celebrating once again.<br />
Experience all that NZ has to offer!<br />
Why not cycle an iconic trail - Alps to Ocean,<br />
Otago Rail Trail, West Coast Wilderness.<br />
Get out and explore your own backyard!<br />
www.worldexpeditions.com<br />
0800 350 354<br />
enquiries@worldexpeditions.co.nz<br />
Our thoughtful guide had already sorted<br />
our room and bags were waiting for a<br />
hot shower. We had beautiful salmon for<br />
dinner, a well-earned drink and a soak in<br />
the wood fired hot tubs. I couldn’t think of a<br />
better way to celebrate my bday!!<br />
Alps to Ocean Day 4 and my Word is<br />
#Burn: Incredible scenery and riding today<br />
around lakes and dams from Omarama<br />
to Kurow. A cool start and the sun was<br />
shining. A lovely picnic lunch by the lake<br />
(we have been so spoilt by our guide who<br />
is an absolute gem). The off-road tracks<br />
were fast and smooth, just magic. Our<br />
accommodation tonight is really unique and<br />
we have just had the most amazing meal.<br />
Oh, and the wine tasting was superb... and<br />
the burn... well that’s sunburn on my left leg<br />
and... chaffing!<br />
Alps to Ocean Day 5 and my word<br />
is #Peaking: After a fabulous night in<br />
Kurow staying at the gorgeous Waitaki<br />
Braids where we enjoyed luxurious<br />
accommodation, outstanding food,<br />
beautiful wine and the warmest welcome,<br />
we set off for the next day of adventure.<br />
I was peaking. The fresh air and scenery<br />
was energising and happiness levels were<br />
right up there. The riding today took us<br />
into new scenery along the fast and high<br />
flowing Waitaki river to the farm lands of<br />
Burnside Homestead... magic.<br />
Alps to Ocean Day 6 and my word is<br />
#Exceeded: The high from yesterday<br />
wasn’t quite as high upon waking to very<br />
cold and drizzly weather. Luckily our<br />
guide Jan was able to give us all a pep<br />
talk to awaken the spirits! We set off from<br />
"I feel like I’ve seen<br />
NZ through new<br />
eyes this trip and<br />
learnt so much."<br />
elephant rocks and 20mins into it I was<br />
wet and muddy and grinning ear to ear.<br />
Once out there I was loving it again. The<br />
trail was a dream to ride with lots of little<br />
ups and downs. We had some fun on the<br />
downs, what a blast!<br />
The scenery on this final day was so<br />
interesting. I feel like I’ve seen NZ through<br />
new eyes this trip and learnt so much<br />
thanks to Jan’s exceptional knowledge.<br />
After the last stop with only about 10k to<br />
Our Stand Out Moments<br />
• Stand out accommodation was Waitaki Braids (we<br />
would definitely go back there, it's not just a bed, it's<br />
an experience).<br />
• Biking along the Lake Ohau track, the scenery was<br />
magic.<br />
• Enjoying the experiences outside of the biking like<br />
the meals together, the hot spa pools, the picnic<br />
beside the lake, wine tasting, photography.<br />
• We found the tour guide highly flexible so that we<br />
could adapt when the weather wasn't right. This<br />
made the trip much more enjoyable.<br />
• We thought the trail was extremely well built and<br />
lovely to ride.<br />
• Benefits of guided travel in New Zealand - Even for<br />
Kiwis<br />
• Having the time and taking the time to stop at<br />
places we never stopped at (as we were always on<br />
route to a destination)<br />
• Seeing NZ through fresh eyes, through the eyes of<br />
a tourist. Exploring small towns we haven't been to<br />
in many many years.<br />
• Not having to drive!! For me, who is normally<br />
driving, I loved relaxing and looking out the window.<br />
I saw things I would never usually see.<br />
• Not having to worry! All we had to think about was<br />
getting up and biking! Everything was so well taken<br />
care of, it was lovely being taken care of and not<br />
have to worry about the minor details.<br />
• Not having to take the time to pre-plan the trip<br />
• Being able to explore cycle routes that started and<br />
finished in different places (self-guided and we<br />
always have to finish where we started)<br />
• Having a guide meant finding out about places,<br />
gaining knowledge we wouldn't have if self guided.<br />
• It really felt like a holiday and it was great doing<br />
something we wouldn't normally do.<br />
• Would be a great trip with a group of friends<br />
For more information on a Kiwi iconic cycle, discover the<br />
Alps to Ocean Classic here: https://worldexpeditions.<br />
com/New-Zealand/Cycle-Trails/Alps-to-Ocean-Classic<br />
go we gave it everything and sped along<br />
the track, adrenaline pumping with the<br />
finish line so close!<br />
What an adventure! A special thanks to<br />
our guide, Jan, I knew I would love this<br />
trip but the whole thing totally exceeded<br />
my expectations in every way. Would do<br />
it all over again in a heartbeat. Thank you<br />
so much!<br />
ADVENTUREMAGAZINE.CO.NZ 23
Avalanche<br />
Words and Images by Mountain Safety Council<br />
What comes to mind first when you think of<br />
‘avalanche awareness’? Is it taking a training<br />
course? Perhaps it’s making sure you have<br />
avalanche rescue equipment and know how<br />
to use it. Or, is it checking the New Zealand<br />
Avalanche Advisory (NZAA) to find your<br />
region’s avalanche forecast? They’re all<br />
correct answers!<br />
A<br />
w areness<br />
Getting the training, having (and knowing how<br />
to use) the gear and checking the forecast<br />
are the three essential steps to ensuring you<br />
are prepared to head into the backcountry,<br />
whether you are ski-touring, mountaineering,<br />
ice climbing, or tackling a winter tramping trip.<br />
But is that it, if you tick those boxes are you<br />
good to go? Short answer is, you’re on the<br />
right path, but as you probably expected there<br />
is more to it. There are the more critical parts<br />
of the process that require deeper thought and<br />
consideration, and they probably don’t come<br />
to mind quite as readily as they should.<br />
Critical thinking and risk management requires<br />
asking ourselves the more challenging<br />
questions, like ’what does this forecast mean<br />
for my route?’, ’what time of day am I going<br />
to be in that avalanche terrain and what<br />
will that mean?’, and even something as<br />
simple as, ‘does this trip make sense right<br />
now?’ Your group’s skill level and whether<br />
everyone’s goals are aligned also needs to be<br />
considered.<br />
These considerations are the soft skills you<br />
learn about during an avalanche course,<br />
but they can’t be left there, they need to be<br />
transferred into real life situations. Critical<br />
thinking and risk management are essential<br />
tools (and skills) that belong on every trip, just<br />
like your skins or your crampons, and they<br />
should be taken out and used just as often.<br />
At the New Zealand Mountain Safety<br />
Council (MSC) we do a huge amount of work<br />
compiling and analysing outdoor recreation<br />
data in order to gain insights into what<br />
incidents are occurring and why.<br />
When we take a detailed look into avalanche<br />
incidents, it’s not surprising to find that<br />
those more challenging questions and<br />
considerations appear to either be glossed<br />
over or overlooked entirely.<br />
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While there are plenty of reasons to believe that<br />
that opportunities in the backcountry are scarce,<br />
there is still no justification for downplaying<br />
dangers that are present when you are out there.<br />
Over the last 20 years a large proportion of the<br />
avalanche fatalities in NZ involve the scarcity<br />
heuristic trap. These were usually individuals not<br />
who weren’t ignorant to the dangers in front of<br />
them. Most would have been able to identify the<br />
hazard. But, for various reasons, they decided to<br />
accept an elevated level of risk because ‘scarcity’<br />
influenced their decision making.<br />
A clear, reoccurring example of this comes to<br />
mind. I’ve heard numerous times ‘considerable’<br />
avalanche danger referred to as “3 out of 5” or an<br />
“orange”. This is missing the point. The danger<br />
scale isn’t like ski-run grades or mountain-bike<br />
track grades. In those cases, the black runs<br />
are more difficult and dangerous, but they are<br />
designed to be ridden. “Extreme” avalanche<br />
danger is not, nor is “high” for that matter. These<br />
are times to avoid avalanche terrain altogether.<br />
“Considerable” avalanche danger effectively<br />
means treating the snowpack like you would your<br />
most challenging ski-runs and bike-tracks. It’s<br />
going to require high-level experience and skills to<br />
navigate through and pick the right line. And even<br />
then, sometimes it’s just best to save it for another<br />
day.<br />
It’s easy to fall into the trap of thinking, “I’ve got<br />
this chance, I have to take it”. But as scarce as<br />
those moments are (even in New Zealand!), there<br />
will always be more. That might not be true if you<br />
make the wrong choice and put the goal ahead of<br />
the evidence.<br />
“But it is one thing to read about dragons and<br />
another to meet them.”<br />
-Ursula K. Le Guin, A Wizard of Earthsea<br />
What came as a surprise to us was that<br />
the people who were skipping those<br />
steps and making those errors should<br />
have known better. These individuals<br />
were typically experienced, skilled and<br />
would have had the training to learn<br />
about and then apply critical thinking<br />
over the years. The avalanches they<br />
were getting caught in weren’t one-ina-hundred-year<br />
unpredictable events.<br />
These were often text-book examples of<br />
avalanches that we see and hear about<br />
every day and can easily be overlooked<br />
or misjudged.<br />
What’s clear is that heuristic traps<br />
are a key component. If you’re not<br />
familiar, heuristic traps are situations<br />
we (humans) fall into where we may<br />
make decisions (consciously or not) that<br />
conflict with the evidence available or<br />
the situation we find ourselves in. We<br />
make assumptions, favour convenience,<br />
or judge things based on a bias. These<br />
‘traps’ are explained in different ways<br />
depending on who you talk to, but<br />
the acronym FACETS (Familiarity,<br />
Acceptance, Consistency, Expert-Halo,<br />
Tracks and Scarcity) is commonly<br />
referred to and an easy guide. A quick<br />
online search will lead you to a variety<br />
of articles on this topic, many specific to<br />
the avalanche space. It’s definitely worth<br />
reading up on if you haven’t before.<br />
Without diving into all of these (one could<br />
devote a whole magazine issue to the<br />
topic!), let’s focus on one heuristic trap<br />
in particular, scarcity. Scarcity largely<br />
revolves around the idea that we ignore<br />
or discount elevated risks as they stand<br />
in the way of experiencing something<br />
rare or finite. Fresh, untracked powder<br />
is a great example, or getting a bit of<br />
summit fever on an alpine mission<br />
because ‘I never get the chance to<br />
get out anymore’. It’s fair to say that in<br />
New Zealand, we all feel this pressure<br />
from time to time. Our ski seasons are<br />
short and rarely offer up the consistent,<br />
powder-laden conditions often seen in<br />
areas such as Japan or North America.<br />
Likewise, climbing in NZ has a maritime<br />
climate to contend with, greatly reducing<br />
the frequency of suitable weather<br />
windows for alpine climbing compared<br />
to continental ranges like the European<br />
Alps. Climate change isn’t helping any<br />
of this either, with shorter winters and<br />
retreating glaciers constantly adjusting<br />
what the landscape looks like and how<br />
we can access it.<br />
For your regions avalanche forecast,<br />
visit the New Zealand Avalanche<br />
Advisory at avalanche.net.nz, owned<br />
and managed by the New Zealand<br />
Mountain Safety Council (MSC). Here<br />
you can also find useful resources<br />
such as our online avalanche course,<br />
avalanche safety videos, and a list of<br />
avalanche course providers around the<br />
country.<br />
For more information about the<br />
MSC please visit our website www.<br />
mountainsafety.org.nz where you’ll<br />
find outdoor safety tools, resources,<br />
information and heaps more to help you<br />
stay safe in the outdoors no matter what<br />
your pursuit.<br />
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Playing Safe<br />
Words and Images by Aspiring Guides<br />
After months of restricted outdoor access, we can all attest to<br />
what a precious commodity time in the mountains is-- all the<br />
more reason to ensure that it is time well spent. You might<br />
have spent Lockdown stocking up on the latest gear, or have<br />
the ability to carve it up like a pro, but planning a successful<br />
backcountry ski trip is about taking a holistic approach. Here<br />
are six tips to help you prepare for a season of safe and<br />
memorable (in the right ways) backcountry touring.<br />
• Use a variety of sources when planning<br />
your route. Topographic maps are a good<br />
source of information and can be useful for<br />
approximations of slope steepness, but they<br />
don’t necessarily contain enough information<br />
to determine whether a route is feasible or not.<br />
Vertical spacing between contour lines often<br />
means that a lot of detail is lost, so use these<br />
maps alongside other sources of information<br />
that will fill in the gaps. These could be photos<br />
or videos from the location, or check out online<br />
visualisation tools such as Fatmap®.<br />
Ski touring on Black Peak means epic views over Lake Wanaka.<br />
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Above and below: Learning to interpret<br />
snowpack is an important tool in your<br />
avalanche awareness toolkit.<br />
• In New Zealand especially, flexibility is key.<br />
Have plans for a number of objectives ready<br />
to go. Then when the dates draw near, you’re<br />
able to choose the most appropriate trip for<br />
the given weather and conditions. Locking<br />
onto a single plan and stubbornly plunging<br />
forward regardless of the circumstances is a<br />
big red flag.<br />
• Be aware of the avalanche danger scale<br />
and the public danger forecast from the MSC<br />
NZ Avalanche Advisory before accessing<br />
the backcountry. This should be a given!<br />
When interpreting the danger forecast,<br />
make sure you consider the forecasted<br />
avalanche character; this will dictate which<br />
risk management strategies you should apply<br />
when you do head into the field.<br />
Terrain on Black Peak is for advanced skiers, with options for ski mountaineers to take it to the next level.<br />
• Make a realistic assessment of the team’s skills, experience and<br />
abilities. Ideally you’ll get to know the strengths and weaknesses of<br />
each team member through a progression of trips or other activities.<br />
Knowing what you each bring to the table increases confidence<br />
and ultimately safety. It’s also useful for individuals to have a clear<br />
understanding of their own goals and motivations, and how these fit in<br />
with the others on the team. Both these and levels of risk acceptance<br />
will be big factors in decision making during the planning and<br />
execution of a trip, and good teamwork is never a bad thing.<br />
• There is an inherent risk associated with any<br />
backcountry travel. In the event of an emergency,<br />
remember that weather and conditions in the mountains<br />
might prevent attempts at immediate rescue. Have plans<br />
in place and carry appropriate equipment to keep yourself<br />
as comfortable as possible during an extended stay in the<br />
elements, including the right emergency communication<br />
tools. How much and what you carry will depend on the<br />
level of commitment and remoteness of your journey.<br />
• Once your trip is finished and you’re back at<br />
home with a hot chocolate and epic photos, there<br />
is yet another step. Take some time to reflect on<br />
your trip, whether successful or not, and use this to<br />
inform your ongoing improvement in trip planning,<br />
movement, technical systems and all the other<br />
factors that contribute to a long and enjoyable career<br />
skiing in the backcountry. Then get onto planning<br />
your next adventure!<br />
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The day we left<br />
Words by Forrest Shearer - Images by Jeff Johnson<br />
As of yesterday, Heath Joske hadn’t been on a snowboard in 13 years<br />
– too busy chasing surf around the world. Now, after a wrong turn, he’s<br />
boot-packing with pro boarders Robin Van Gyn and Forrest Shearer in the<br />
backcountry of New Zealand’s Southern Alps.<br />
There’s an unwritten rule in Wanaka that when it snows like it did last night,<br />
you’re half-expected to cut from work or school (maybe at least for the<br />
morning) to take advantage and get in a few runs. Well it dumped almost<br />
two feet of fresh powder overnight and we’re looking at a bluebird day.<br />
Robin and I are stoked to be chasing winter here in New Zealand, and it’s<br />
even better that we get to show our buddy Heath a bit of our world on the<br />
mountain.<br />
Heath's surf style is mirrored on the mountain when he finds some open terrain<br />
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Heath, out of his element and yet leading the pack.<br />
We’d all gotten in a few good runs before<br />
Robin and I peeled off to the left to stretch<br />
our legs away from the crowds, boot<br />
packing up to check out the ridgeline. We’re<br />
headed back up after a run and I hear<br />
“Case!...Hey! Casey!”<br />
Someone is calling out behind me, but<br />
it’s just me and Robin on this side of the<br />
mountain. We had started as a four-some<br />
but Heath Joske and Glen Casey, both<br />
surfers, were sticking to the groomed runs.<br />
As of yesterday, Heath hadn’t even been on<br />
a snowboard in 13 years – too busy chasing<br />
surf around the world.<br />
“Casey!” I hear again. I turn around to see<br />
Heath trudging towards me. “Shit mate, I<br />
only followed you because I thought you<br />
were Glen,” he says, frustrated, exhausted.<br />
But I was glad to see him. If we’d left it up<br />
to Heath to decide he’s ready to go off-piste<br />
with us, it might not be this trip.<br />
“Hell yeah, brother! You’ll be alright” I say<br />
with a pat on the shoulder. I reckon this is<br />
my favorite crossover to watch these days.<br />
Surfers may be out of the water and out of<br />
their element, but as soon as they get on<br />
the mountain and strap into the board, the<br />
froth is real.<br />
“I’m still figuring out how to get off the<br />
bloody lift” he says, sounding defeated as<br />
we boot pack up a chute. Robin points out<br />
to me that “even though he feels like he’s<br />
out of his depth, he wasn’t anxious until he<br />
realized you were the wrong person. He<br />
was totally doing it.” She’s so right, it’s easy<br />
to get intimidated when you’re in a new<br />
arena, especially with people who are so at<br />
home there. We’ve both been there before,<br />
and will be again when we go surfing in a<br />
few days.<br />
But right now we’re still on a good 45-minute<br />
thigh-burner and he’s not just keeping up,<br />
Heath’s actually out ahead head of us.<br />
Ocean or not, he’s still a top athlete.<br />
Finally on the other side, the mountain<br />
opens up into an epic view and a landscape<br />
of options, and for a moment we’re just awestruck,<br />
taking it in. Heath breaks the silence.<br />
“I was shitting bricks back there,” he shares<br />
from the safety of semi-flat ground.<br />
“You’re good, Heath! Just do what you know<br />
how to do,” encourages Robin.<br />
Then there’s nothing left to do but drop in.<br />
Right away we’re cruising some wide open,<br />
uncrowded terrain. For the first time, Heath<br />
has a length of proper powder to just glide<br />
from turn to turn and let his surf style come<br />
out. You can’t do that on the groomed runs,<br />
especially on the best snow day of the year.<br />
It’s a perfect day of riding with friends,<br />
watching each other rip turns and seeing my<br />
buddy quickly adapt his technique from the<br />
ocean and apply it to the mountain, surfing<br />
long, frozen waves, and conquering a few<br />
burly hike missions with Robin and myself.<br />
Ultimately whether on the mountain or in<br />
the ocean, we’re all just after that feeling of<br />
flying, and getting to share it only fuels the<br />
fire. There’s something so gratifying about<br />
taking someone with you who you know will<br />
love it, and getting to show them your world.<br />
Next we’ll be in on the coast in Heath’s<br />
world. Hopefully he’s not holding a grudge<br />
about that hike we took him on.<br />
Heath, doing what he loves best<br />
ADVENTUREMAGAZINE.CO.NZ 35
HOMEGROWN<br />
CENTRAL PLATEAU<br />
HOME GROWN<br />
CENTRAL<br />
PLATEAU<br />
NORTH<br />
ISLAND<br />
THROUGHOUT THIS ISSUE,<br />
YOU WILL SEE THE GRAPHIC<br />
A NIKAU PALM AND THE<br />
WORDS HOMEGROWN AND<br />
CENTRAL PLATEAU. THAT<br />
IS A CONNECTION, AN<br />
INDICATION THAT HERE IS<br />
SOMETHING SPECIAL FOR<br />
NEW ZEALAND. IN A WORLD;<br />
FOR THE NEAR FUTURE<br />
WHERE WE WILL NEED TO<br />
SATISFY OUR ADVENTUROUS<br />
APPETITE LOCALLY, WE HAVE<br />
TAKEN A SEGMENT OF NEW<br />
ZEALAND AND EXPOSED<br />
JUST SOME OF WHAT IS<br />
AVAILABLE IN THE REGION.<br />
THE CENTRAL PLATEAU,<br />
USUALLY RENOWNED FOR<br />
RUAPEHU AND SKIING,<br />
OFFERS SO MUCH MORE<br />
THAN JUST SNOW. THERE<br />
IS BIKING, HIKING, RAFTING,<br />
FISHING AND KAYAKING, THE<br />
LIST IS ENDLESS. SO WE<br />
HAVE HIGHLIGHTED JUST<br />
SOME OF WHAT IS AVAILABLE<br />
TO WHET YOUR APPETITE.<br />
3.7 MILLION PEOPLE LIVE IN<br />
THE NORTH ISLAND THAT IS<br />
3.7 MILLION PEOPLE WHO<br />
DO NOT HAVE TO FLY TO GET<br />
TO THE CENTRAL PLATEAU;<br />
YOU CAN DRIVE THERE.<br />
IT IS EQUALLY A SUMMER<br />
DESTINATION AS A WINTER<br />
ONE. START PLANNING<br />
NOW – FULFIL YOUR<br />
ADVENTUROUS PASSION<br />
WITH NEW ZEALAND'S MOST<br />
ACCESSIBLE PLAYGROUND.<br />
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The Central Plateau<br />
The Central Plateau covers a large<br />
area in the central North Island of New<br />
Zealand. The heart of the area is the<br />
mountains and volcanic area of the<br />
Tongariro National Park and then it<br />
fans out north past Taupo, to the west<br />
past Taumaranui, and to the south<br />
past Taihape. Each of the towns offer<br />
something unique...<br />
Taupo:<br />
The largest urban area in the Central<br />
Plateau and the 20th in the country, Taupo<br />
is located at the outlet of Lake Taupo, New<br />
Zealand’s largest lake. Taupo is the heart<br />
of volcanic and thermal activity providing<br />
natural hot springs throughout the region.<br />
With the lake and Waikato River on its<br />
doorstep it’s obvious that Taupo is home<br />
to a range of water activities. However,<br />
there is a lot more to Taupo than just the<br />
water. Mountain bike trails and river walks<br />
allow you to get into the outdoors, but if<br />
it's an adventure that you are after, you’ll<br />
find plenty of things to do in Taupo, from<br />
Bungy Jumping, skydiving, jet boating and<br />
paragliding.<br />
Turangi:<br />
On the southern edge of Lake Taupo<br />
you’ll find the town of Turangi. Developed<br />
on the banks of the Tongariro River, it<br />
was originally built to house workers<br />
from the Tongariro hydro-electric power<br />
development project and their families but<br />
is now a hub for outdoor enthusiasts. With<br />
the Kaimanawa Ranges and the Tongariro<br />
River on its doorstep, it offers a range<br />
of outdoor activities, from hiking, biking,<br />
fishing, hunting, skiing, rafting, kayaking<br />
and more.<br />
Taumaranui:<br />
Originally a Maori settlement at the<br />
confluence of the Ongarue River with the<br />
Whanganui, this is where important canoe<br />
routes linked the interior of the island with<br />
the lower Whanganui River settlements.<br />
Its proximity to the Whanganui River<br />
means there are plenty of water activities<br />
on hand and biking trails, such as the<br />
Timber Trail, are close by.<br />
Owhango:<br />
20km south of Taumaranui, you’ll find the<br />
tiny town of Owhango. The Whakapapa<br />
River lies 2km east of the town and<br />
the vast expanse of Tongariro Forest<br />
Conservation Area and bisecting the forest<br />
is one of New Zealand's best mountain<br />
bike rides, the 42 Traverse. The forest also<br />
has excellent tramping, camping and deer<br />
hunting opportunities.<br />
Skydiving over Lake Taupo and the Central Plateau<br />
National Park:<br />
Nestled between the North Island main<br />
trunk railway line and State Highway 4,<br />
lies what for many travelling past would<br />
appear as an unassuming village. From<br />
the highway, travellers will see a petrol<br />
station, pub, hotel and a few houses much<br />
like many other small Kiwi towns they pass<br />
through.<br />
At an altitude of 820 metres, National Park<br />
Village can truly claim the title of New<br />
Zealand’s top town, being the highest<br />
urban township in the country. But that’s<br />
not what makes the village a destination of<br />
choice for thousands of visitors each year.<br />
As its name suggests, National Park<br />
Village is located on the boundary of<br />
Tongariro National Park in the Central<br />
North Island. This makes the village an<br />
ideal base for those wishing to explore<br />
the natural and cultural wonders of New<br />
Zealand's oldest national park and Dual<br />
World Heritage Area, all year round.<br />
Raurimu:<br />
Just 6km north of National Park, is home<br />
to the famous Raurimu Railway Spiral and<br />
a selection of accommodation options set<br />
among and on top of hills offering some of<br />
the best views over the park, there’s also<br />
a pub !<br />
Further south along State Highway 4, lies<br />
Erua where you’ll find a mountain lodge,<br />
backpackers, motel units and access to<br />
a mountain bike park – all at the base of<br />
Hauhungatahi, one of the lesser known,<br />
yet highest volcanoes in New Zealand, at<br />
1,521 metres.<br />
Whakapapa Village:<br />
16km from National Park - meanwhile lies<br />
within the Tongariro National Park and<br />
hosts the historic Chateau Tongariro Hotel,<br />
the Skotel resort hotel, a holiday park, café<br />
and tavern.<br />
Combined these villages offer the best<br />
access to the Whakapapa ski area and<br />
wider Tongariro National Park, along with<br />
an exceptional choice of accommodation<br />
and dining options catering for all budgets<br />
and tastes.<br />
Ohakune:<br />
Located at the southern end of Mt<br />
Ruapehu, Ohakune is the gateway to the<br />
Turoa Ski fields. But it is also a lot more<br />
than just a ski town, with trout fishing,<br />
mountain biking, tramping and bushwalking<br />
all within easy reach of the town.<br />
As well as boasting the famous Ohakune<br />
Carrot (the worlds largest model carrot),<br />
the world's first commercial bungy jumping<br />
site was established just outside Ohakune<br />
at the old railway viaduct. This was<br />
operated during the 1980s until the bridge<br />
became too unsafe to continue operations.<br />
This bridge is now restored and a highlight<br />
of the 'Old Coach Road' walk/bikeway.<br />
Taihape:<br />
South of Ohakune on State Highway 1,<br />
you’ll come across the small settlement of<br />
Taihape. Built near the confluence of the<br />
Hautapu and Rangitikei Rivers, this town<br />
offers a gateway to some great outdoor<br />
adventures. Home of the gumboot, Taihape<br />
offers an access to a taste of the “real” NZ.<br />
Why wait?<br />
<strong>Adventure</strong> starts here<br />
Dual Heritage Tongariro<br />
National Park<br />
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www.nationalpark.co.nz
HOMEGROWN<br />
CENTRAL PLATEAU<br />
Kayaking the Kuratau River<br />
Image compliments of Visit Ruapehu<br />
Water, water everwhere: and most of it you can drink<br />
When we normally write about water<br />
adventure a lot of it is sea based<br />
and salty. The Central Plateau boast<br />
numerous rivers and lakes, the most wellknown<br />
being Lake Taupo. Lake Taupo a<br />
surface area of 616 square kilometres,<br />
is the largest lake by surface area in<br />
New Zealand, and the second largest<br />
in Oceania (after Lake Murray in Papua<br />
New Guinea).<br />
With that amount of aquatic room to<br />
move there is a lot to do. One activity that<br />
gets a lot of coverage is sea kayaking<br />
to visit the water based Maori carvings.<br />
The first question you ask is how did<br />
it get there? The answer is when<br />
traditional marae-taught carver Matahi<br />
Brightwell paddled past a rock alcove<br />
on Lake Taupo in 1976, he had a vision<br />
of a tattooed face. His grandmother, Te<br />
Huatahi Susie Gilbert of Ngati Rauhoto,<br />
Ngati Tuwharetoa, Ngati Maiotaki and<br />
Ngati Whakaue, had asked the young<br />
carver to create a likeness of her ancestor<br />
Ngatoroirangi on a totara tree to create<br />
a permanent connection for her family to<br />
the land. When Matahi arrived in Taupo<br />
there was no totara tree to carve so he<br />
journeyed onto the lake for inspiration.<br />
The rock alcove at Mine Bay became the<br />
canvas for one of the most extraordinary<br />
contemporary artworks New Zealand has<br />
ever seen. Sculpted over the course of<br />
four years and completed in 1980,<br />
There are a range of guided sea kayaking<br />
trip around Taupo some offer longer<br />
trips and kayak hire so you can go solo.<br />
Paddleboarding has also become popular<br />
in recently years and these are also<br />
available for tours or hire.<br />
If you would prefer not to go under your<br />
own steam, there are several charter<br />
yacht companies offering day tours and<br />
overnight options both skippered and<br />
unskippered vessels.<br />
Moving away from the lake the Central<br />
Plateau offers some of the most<br />
significant rivers in New Zealand, some<br />
to cruise and some to play in. Both the<br />
Whanaganui and Waikato have been<br />
used for centuries as a way of getting<br />
around the country now they are used for<br />
paddle canoe cruises. Companies offer a<br />
gambit of options in terms of length and<br />
numbers.<br />
The Whanganui River has been dedicated<br />
as one of New Zealand’s ‘great walks’ –<br />
or should be a great float?<br />
The Waikato river also offer a range of<br />
guided tours the most common around<br />
the Taupo area both one and half day<br />
tours some of which visit some of the<br />
local attraction like the Bungee, Huka falls<br />
etc.<br />
Where there are flowing rivers and<br />
some elevation you will find white water<br />
kayaking – the Central Plateau is a<br />
kayaker’s playground.<br />
The most well-known waterfall would be<br />
Huka Falls which produces breath-taking<br />
power and only extreme adventure gurus<br />
have run it (and its illegal). Below these<br />
falls Aratiatia Rapids which rise with<br />
awesome fury when the control gates<br />
are opened, and this creates a great<br />
spectacle. Its important be aware of when<br />
these food gates are open as people have<br />
been caught unaware. Ngawaapurua<br />
Rapids, downstream from the Aratiatia<br />
Dam, provide real Whitewater sport. A<br />
huge breaking wave dominates the rapids<br />
and a strong back-eddy facilitates reruns.<br />
You can play here for hours -<br />
locally call Full James. The is also<br />
a doc camp site here so it has a<br />
strong community feel.<br />
Another river that rises out of the<br />
sparkling snowfields, rock-strewn<br />
slopes and windswept tussock<br />
plains is one of New Zealand’s<br />
most famous recreational river<br />
systems. The Tongariro; is the<br />
main river flowing into Lake Taupo.<br />
It is both a renowned rainbow trout<br />
fishery and a mecca for rafting and<br />
kayaking enthusiasts. The most<br />
popular run is a 3-hour, Grade 3,<br />
full-on rafting experience through<br />
60 rapids on the Lower Tongariro.<br />
The put in is at the Poutu water<br />
intake on the Waikato Falls Road<br />
and the takeout is on the true left<br />
bank of the Red Hut Pool.<br />
Often forgotten the Whakapapa<br />
River this is the major tributary of<br />
the Whanganui and offers good<br />
Grade 3 – 4 rapids after heavy<br />
rainfall. The put in is the Rangipo<br />
Hydro Scheme intake structure off<br />
S.H.47. Experience is needed to<br />
negotiate the tight chutes between<br />
boulders and some rapids may<br />
need to be portaged. The takeout<br />
is below Owhango on S.H.4 before<br />
the river joins the Whanganui.<br />
Another little gem is the Mangakino<br />
Stream, which flows into Lake<br />
Maraetai south east of Mangakino<br />
township. Put in at the Sandels<br />
Road bridge after heavy rain and<br />
ride some bouncy Grade 3 rapids<br />
down to the lake.<br />
This is just a small collection of<br />
what is available in the region<br />
Basically if there is any sort of<br />
rafting operation in the area there<br />
will be good kayaking – stick to<br />
your limitations.<br />
Viewing the Mine Bay Maori Rock Carvings on Lake Taupo<br />
Image compliments of Sail Barbary<br />
Canoeing the Whanganui River<br />
Image compliments of Visit Ruapehu<br />
Lastly a phenomenon that has grown<br />
in popularity because of tourism is jet<br />
boating the most famous being the<br />
Huka jet. Which is a white knuckle<br />
tour for a close up look at the bottom<br />
of the Huka Falls, flying over shallow<br />
water, spins and turn like a natural<br />
roller coaster ride. Jet boat tour<br />
operators are now available on most<br />
of the major rivers.<br />
Jetboating the Whanganui River<br />
Image compliments of Visit Ruapehu<br />
Water is the basis of so many<br />
activities in the Central plateau<br />
region. The natural central free flow<br />
out to the edges of the region create a<br />
playground that offers an experience,<br />
an activity, a sport, a recreation –<br />
something for everyone.<br />
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massive<br />
half price<br />
rafting for<br />
everyone<br />
UNtil the end of<br />
August<br />
Grade 2 family fun trip<br />
Image compliments of Rafting New Zealand<br />
HOMEGROWN<br />
CENTRAL PLATEAU<br />
Rafting:<br />
There are a few commercially<br />
raftable rivers in the Central<br />
Plateau; the Tongariro and<br />
the Rangitikei. Both rivers<br />
offer options for day trips and<br />
overnight experiences so you'll<br />
find something to suit your<br />
needs. Some of the best fun<br />
you'll ever have!<br />
Rafting on the Tongariro River with Rafting New Zealand<br />
Image compliments of Rafting New Zealand<br />
Tongariro River:<br />
The headwaters of the Tongariro originate in the Central Plateau and wind their way down through<br />
the towns of Turangi until it arrives at Lake Taupo. This is New Zealand’s most fished river, but it<br />
also proves an excellent choice for rafting.<br />
There are three main white water sections which provide excellent rafting options, with two<br />
gorges which are usually considered unpaddleable, (Tree Trunk Gorge and Waikato Gorge). The<br />
river levels are controlled by the dam and two of the three sections are only able to be rafted on<br />
the release days of the dam. The lower section of the Tongariro River offers a family friendly<br />
experience to give a taste for first time rafters or younger children.<br />
Section Put in Take Out Difficulty Length Time<br />
Access 14 Rangipo Dam Tree Trunk Gorge Grade 4 5.7km 1-3 hrs<br />
Access 13 Tree Trunk Gorge Waikato Gorge Grade 3+ 5.3km 2-3 hours<br />
Access 10 Poutu Intake Blue Pool Grade 3 13km 2-4 hours<br />
Scenic beauty on the Tongariro River<br />
Image compliments of Rafting New Zealand<br />
Access 14 has a put in just below the Rangipo Dam and is the highest<br />
and most narrow section of the raftable section of the Tongariro. It is<br />
graded a 4, although there are only a few grade 4 rapids, however, the<br />
continuity of the grade 3+ sections and the inability to walk out means<br />
it keeps its grade 4 status. Also care needs to be taken to ensure that<br />
the takeout is not missed, as just below this is Tree Trunk Gorge, which<br />
could be fatal if entered on a release day.<br />
Access 13 has a more difficult access and requires a walk in and<br />
out and rafts have to be dropped down a 15m cliff into the river. It is<br />
rated a 3+ and also has a critical takeout point just above Waikato<br />
Gorge, another section of the river that could prove fatal. The riverbed<br />
through this section is small, containing the rapids and making them<br />
steeper. Due to the accessibility, this section of the river is rarely rafted<br />
commercially.<br />
Access 10 is the most popular section of the river and most actively<br />
rafted, due to the ease of access and the year round flow levels allow<br />
rafting daily on this part of the Tongariro. There are over 60 Grade 3<br />
rapids making for an excellent half day on the river. Take out is at Blue<br />
Pool or you can choose to continue down to Turangi township, this<br />
part of the river offers a fantastic grade 2 rafting experience, where as<br />
young as three years of age can take part in the thrill of rafting.<br />
you deserve<br />
an escape<br />
to adventure!<br />
USECODE: WIN2020<br />
42//WHERE ACTIONS SPEAK LOUDER THAN WORDS/#<strong>220</strong>
Rafting the Grade 5 section of the Rangitikei River<br />
The upper Rangitaiki River - Images compliments of River Rats<br />
Rangitikei River:<br />
Rangitaiki River:<br />
One of New Zealand’s longest rivers, the Rangitikei’s<br />
headwaters are to the south east of Lake Taupo and<br />
the river flows through the central plateau past Taihape<br />
and Mangakiwa, before heading out to the coast south<br />
of Whanganui. The grade of the river varies over the<br />
185km stretch ranging from grade 1 through to grade 5,<br />
all sections are raftable, it just depends on what you are<br />
looking for.<br />
Due to the length and nature of the river, a multiday trip<br />
is a great way to experience the area however there are<br />
plenty of options to do day trips of varying degrees of<br />
difficulty. The scenery is spectacular and secluded and<br />
offers real variety.<br />
The highlight for white water enthusiasts is the grade 5<br />
section that ends at River Valley Lodge just out of Taihape.<br />
This 11km section of river starts with grade 2-3 rapids and<br />
builds to a section of the river with 10 major rapids, from<br />
Grade 3+ - Grade 5 line up one after the other.<br />
Rangitaiki River<br />
Rangitaiki River<br />
Tongariro River<br />
Rangitikei River<br />
Situated 45 minutes from Rotorua or around 1 hour from Taupo,<br />
there are two sections to the Rangitaiki River; the upper section is a<br />
busy class 3 – 4 section and lower down there is a grade 2 section<br />
suitable for children as young as 5.<br />
The upper section requires good teamwork but without the drops<br />
experienced on the grade 5 offerings it doesn’t feel as scary. It runs<br />
through a beautiful river valley with a mix of native and plantation<br />
forest.<br />
The lower section runs through a stunning rock gorge with lots of<br />
freshwater springs trickling into the river that you can stop and drink<br />
from, there is even a spot to get out for a shower under a stunning<br />
spring fed waterfall making for some great shots to ensure you have<br />
a strong Instagram game. There are plenty of opportunities<br />
to float down smaller rapids or swim in the calm pools. It has a few<br />
bigger rapids but they are just nice rolling wave trains with not many<br />
obstacles to avoid making it a great option for families or those<br />
looking to experience the scenery without too much excitement.<br />
The lower Rangitaiki River - Images compliments of River Rats<br />
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Recommended:<br />
Rafting New Zealand are based in Turangi and have been<br />
operating for over 25 years and is New Zealand’s most awarded<br />
rafting Company. A part-Iwi owned business along with Luke and<br />
Pianika Boddington, Rafting New Zealand was established in<br />
1991.RNZ love to raft and love to share their passion for rafting<br />
rivers with all their clients, this enthusiasm for their excellent<br />
product is infectious and helps to create the unique experience<br />
that is white water rafting with Rafting New Zealand.<br />
Rafting New Zealand first began as Rock ‘n’ River <strong>Adventure</strong>s in<br />
1991. It’s founders Rod Brown (Pianika’s dad), and Tui Brabyn,<br />
had a vision to operate, not necessarily the biggest, but definitely<br />
the best white water rafting business in Aotearoa (New Zealand).<br />
This vision is realised and continued today.<br />
Rafting New Zealand offers a range of rafting adventures from<br />
their Grade 2 family fun trips, suitable for the whole family,<br />
through to their Grade 3 White Water adventures and raft/<br />
fishing adventures. They also offer multi-day trips camping on<br />
the banks of the river. For more information check them out at<br />
raftingnewzealand.com.<br />
kaituna RIVER<br />
grade 5<br />
quality<br />
adventures<br />
for over<br />
35<br />
years<br />
Kaituna River:<br />
On the border between the central plateau<br />
and the Bay of Plenty, lies the Kaituna River.<br />
Beginning at the outflow of Lake Rotorua<br />
and Lake Rotama, the river flows north until<br />
it reaches the coast near Te Puke. The top<br />
section of the river, near Okere Falls is where<br />
the white water begins and has been rafted and<br />
kayaked since the early 1990's.<br />
One of the main draw cards to rafting the<br />
Kaituna is that you get to run the highest<br />
commercially rafted waterfall in the world, the<br />
Tutea Falls. The 7 meter drop is super exciting<br />
and suitable for anyone over the age of 13.<br />
The Kaituna River has been run regularly<br />
by kayak enthusiasts and rafters since 1991<br />
and has become a winter destination for<br />
paddlers from the northern hemisphere. There<br />
is a slalom course that has been used by<br />
international teams for off-season training at<br />
the entrance to the upper gorge which itself<br />
contains a number of play features including<br />
the famous “bottom hole”.<br />
Tutea Falls on the Kaituna River - Images compliments of River Rats<br />
River Valley Lodge and adventure company, is conveniently<br />
placed at the end of the Grade 5 white water rafting section of<br />
the Rangitikei River. It is also the start point for several more<br />
leisurely river trips. This Grade 5 section of the Rangitikei River<br />
has been placed amongst the top 8 rafting trips in the world by<br />
the international brand, Red Bull. River Valley Lodge has been<br />
operating for over 30 years and has grown to meet the demands<br />
of the changing market.<br />
What you will find at River Valley Lodge is a destination where<br />
you can have fun on the river, choosing from a mix of day trips<br />
and multi-day trips. Multi-day trips involve camping on the river<br />
bank at night and exploring new stretches of the river by day.<br />
They are a fun option for families or groups of friends.<br />
There is no better way to explore the countryside, this beautiful<br />
hill country, than by horse. Treks from a half-day to eight days will<br />
be operating from October.<br />
A River Valley Lodge stay, need not be just about rafting or<br />
riding horses. The Lodge is also a great place to relax. There<br />
are several short walks, a great swimming hole in the river, two<br />
saunas and a spa, and plenty of places to just relax with a book.<br />
River Valley Lodge is presently open for meals and<br />
accommodation. <strong>Adventure</strong> activities, both on the river, or by<br />
horse, will resume no later than the 1st October 2020, and<br />
possibly earlier. Check out their website rivervalley.co.nz, to<br />
start planning a stay at River Valley.<br />
River Rats Raft & Kayak have been operating for 38 years and<br />
have a wide range of trips so there is something for everyone.<br />
The most popular trip is the Kaituna situated 20 minutes from<br />
Rotorua, it features the world’s highest commercially rafted<br />
waterfall, the awesome 7m Tutea falls. Although the trip provides<br />
full on action it is suitable for adventurous beginners as all the<br />
major drops run into calm water making it very forgiving for a<br />
grade 5 trip. As well as the drops it has stunning scenery and<br />
some fun surf holes.<br />
River Rats also offers Grade 5 rafting on the Wairoa River and<br />
grade 3-4 or grade 2 options on Rangitaiki Rivers and kayaking<br />
on Rotorua's lakes. On Lake Rotoiti there are hot pools right on<br />
the lake edge and fed from a natural hot spring. The paddle is<br />
around an hour each way with plenty of time to relax and enjoy<br />
the hot pools. In summer there is an evening option with a BBQ<br />
dinner at the hot pools followed by a sunset kayak to a hidden<br />
glow worm cave.<br />
rangitaiki River<br />
grade 2 &<br />
grade 3-4<br />
kayaking<br />
head office<br />
hanger 14s rotorua airport<br />
837 te ngae road<br />
rotorua, 3074<br />
mention<br />
promo code<br />
ADV20<br />
for a 20%<br />
discount<br />
free phone<br />
0800 333 900<br />
email<br />
info@riverrats.co.nz<br />
River Rats operates year-round and provides excellent gear to<br />
keep you cosy regardless of the temperature.While the borders<br />
are closed to tourists they are also offering a great discount for<br />
the local market. Mention this article or use the code ADV20 on<br />
their website to get a 20% discount on any of the trips. For more<br />
riverrats.co.nz<br />
46//WHERE ACTIONS SPEAK LOUDER THAN WORDS/#<strong>220</strong> information check out riverrats.co.nz<br />
ADVENTUREMAGAZINE.CO.NZ 47
Hooked on Fishing:<br />
Worldwide, New Zealand is renowned<br />
for its trout fishing and there is no better<br />
location than the Central Plateau. We<br />
can’t cover every aspect in these few<br />
pages, but it will give you a taste of what<br />
is on offer.<br />
Almost every river, stream and lake in the<br />
region has some ‘trout’ potential. Some<br />
have world recognition like Lake Taupo<br />
and the mighty Tongariro River (ranked<br />
one of the best trout fishing rivers in the<br />
world) but there are numerous rivers<br />
and lakes many with easy access. Bank<br />
walking, wading and boating are options<br />
and provide superb fishing throughout<br />
the region. Licenses are inexpensive<br />
even guided trips are amazing value for<br />
money.<br />
Nearly all of the central North Island<br />
rivers and streams hold good numbers<br />
of wild rainbow and brown trout, with<br />
numerous on-and-off road access points<br />
providing you with a wide choice from<br />
small streams, spring creeks and lakes<br />
to large rivers such as the renowned<br />
Whakapapa and Tongariro. Most of these<br />
major rivers also have smaller tributaries<br />
of which many carry good fish.<br />
If you employ a guide, (there are plenty<br />
online or ask a local store) many have<br />
access through private farmlands,<br />
providing clients with an off-the-beatentrack<br />
experience in almost untouched<br />
back country rivers and streams. Or<br />
you can venture into the remote ‘back<br />
country’ yourself, where you will not see<br />
a footprint all day. These back-country<br />
fish have not been fished or even seen<br />
a fishing rod, many are resident in these<br />
rivers and grow to an impressive size.<br />
Access can be a little more complicated<br />
and it pays to go with a guide the first<br />
time to anywhere too ‘remote’.<br />
HOMEGROWN<br />
CENTRAL PLATEAU<br />
Fishing on Lake Taupo - Image compliments of Great Lake Taupo<br />
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The Tongariro River:<br />
Hinemaiaia:<br />
Tauranga-Taupo:<br />
Sunrise on the Tongariro River - Image compliments of Great Lake Taupo<br />
The Tongariro River near Turangi has won<br />
a well-deserved reputation as one of the<br />
world's foremost fishing experiences. In<br />
winter, an estimated 10,000 rainbows and<br />
over 1000 browns migrate up it to reach<br />
the spawning beds.<br />
The river is wide and fast-flowing in places,<br />
with long gravel runs, rocky stretches<br />
and deep lies but there is easy access,<br />
even directly off the motorway. The fishing<br />
pools are not only historic but legendary<br />
among angler worldwide: Major Jones,<br />
The Admiral's Pool, The Judge's Pool, The<br />
Hydro, Red Hut, Kamahi, The Duchess...<br />
During rainbow trout migrations<br />
out of lake Taupo through<br />
April to September the lower<br />
Hinemaiaia offers great fly<br />
fishing, especially. The river<br />
generally runs very clear and is<br />
ideal for nymphing as well as<br />
dry and wet fly. Its banks are<br />
overgrown, but trails give good<br />
access. The fish often lie deep<br />
and close to the bank, making<br />
them a challenge to cast too.<br />
The middle reaches of<br />
the 'TT' as it is called offer<br />
easy access off the main<br />
highway and casting and<br />
good fish between March<br />
and September for dry, lure<br />
and nymph fishing. In places<br />
the bank is very high, and it<br />
is easy to see trout laying in<br />
the deeper pools.<br />
Guided Fly Fishing:<br />
The Big Lake:<br />
Te Whaiau Canal:<br />
Whanganui:<br />
Regardless your ability to fly-fish,<br />
highly skilled or novice, fishing lake<br />
or river you will have something to<br />
meet your budget and time frame.<br />
Whether it’s a half day learning on<br />
the bank of the Tongariro river for<br />
first timers or a day trolling around<br />
Lake Taupo with the family, there is<br />
something for everyone.<br />
Local guides know where to go,<br />
what to use and how to use it. From<br />
half day introduction package to<br />
full week away in the hills, drive in<br />
– walking or even helicopter. Most<br />
guides will provide all the gear and<br />
organise a licence. Be prepared<br />
most guides will not let you keep the<br />
fish you catch but you will get some<br />
great memories and photos.<br />
New Zealand's largest lake (surface area of 616sq<br />
km) is situated in the middle of the North Island on a<br />
volcanic plateau 359 metres above sea level. Due to<br />
its very cold clean water and abundant food sources it<br />
produces huge numbers of well-conditioned fish. It is<br />
very deep in places (up to 185 metres) but has many<br />
areas that provide excellent shoreline fishing. Some<br />
of the best areas for shoreline angling are around the<br />
many stream mouths where fish congregate during the<br />
warmer months and to which they migrate during the<br />
winter spawning runs.<br />
The most popular method for fishing the lake is trolling,<br />
including leadline trolling, wire lining, or the use of<br />
downriggers to troll at a deeper level. Jigging the dropoffs<br />
and fly-fishing around the lake shore and at river<br />
mouths are also popular methods (though note that<br />
boat fishing is not permitted around many of the points<br />
where rivers and streams enter the lake).<br />
The Te Whaiau Canal is short slow<br />
moving and deep. It generally<br />
has steep banks with quite dense<br />
vegetation coming down to the<br />
water’s edge. There are few areas<br />
however where the land opens up<br />
allowing for good casting. Much of<br />
the length of this water is difficult<br />
to both find a good place to stand<br />
and cast from. The fish numbers,<br />
particularly early and late in the<br />
season can be very high and the<br />
fish tend to free risers. During the<br />
warmer months they can often be<br />
seen chasing emerging insects.<br />
That said they are often very difficult<br />
to fool and will rise close to anglers<br />
yet reject even the most beautifully<br />
presented fly.<br />
The upper river rises in the Tongariro National Park and<br />
connects with Lake Otamangakau and the Whakapapa river.<br />
It runs through beautiful native forest, spectacular gorges and<br />
farmland. This river has a reputation for rising quickly so it<br />
pays to keep an eye on the weather forecast. The Wanganui<br />
river generally clear, easy to fish and contains a good number<br />
of trout and is renowned to have some large specimens.<br />
Whakapapa:<br />
The Whakapapa is a large, clear river with some wild rapids,<br />
deep pools and long boulder runs that flows down from<br />
Mt Ruapehu it runs through rugged country which is not<br />
advisable for the inexperienced. Lower down it features many<br />
kilometres of spectacular and productive wilderness fishing.<br />
But the upper reaches you need to know what you are doing<br />
and again be watchful of the weather.<br />
Trout fishing anywhere in the world give you great access to<br />
some of the most unique and beautiful aspect of the country.<br />
But trout fishing in the Central Plateau is like nowhere else it is<br />
varied, spectacular, full of history and legend. It offer something<br />
for everyone, from kids fishing at the Turangi Trout Farm to heli<br />
trip to the back of beyond. Your only limitation is time.<br />
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HOMEGROWN<br />
CENTRAL PLATEAU<br />
Hiking:<br />
The Central Plateau offers a range of hiking options; from the<br />
shores of Lake Taupo through to the Kaimanawa Forest and<br />
Pureora Forest Park, but nothing quite beats the draw of the<br />
Tongariro National Park.<br />
Tongariro National Park is a land of volcanic wonders –<br />
steaming craters, alpine rock gardens, surreal lakes and<br />
tumbling waterfalls. Its hiking trails offer spectacular winter trips<br />
complete with solitude and a backdrop of snowy peaks.<br />
The 600-hectare national park is centred on three volcanoes,<br />
Ruapehu, Ngauruhoe and Tongariro. In their foothills,<br />
Okahune, National Park and Whakapapa Village make great<br />
bases for exploration, as do other little Ruapehu region towns<br />
within easy reach.<br />
Tongariro is New Zealand’s oldest national park, established<br />
in 1887. It holds dual UNESCO World Heritage status for its<br />
cultural significance as well as its outstanding natural features.<br />
The park’s striking natural beauty is the result of two million<br />
years of volcanic activity. Ruapehu and Tongariro are two of the<br />
most active composite volcanoes in the world.<br />
Winter crossing of the Tongariro National Park<br />
Image compliments of Visit Ruapehu<br />
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Know before you go:<br />
Even experienced trampers have<br />
come unstuck in this extreme<br />
environment. The weather can be<br />
especially unpredictable in winter,<br />
with big temperature drops and heavy<br />
downpours that can make streams and<br />
rivers dangerous or impassable. There<br />
are also volcanic hazards, so it’s vital to<br />
obey all warnings and signs.<br />
Check in with the Visitor Centre at<br />
Whakapapa for advice, forecasts<br />
and hut bookings. The Walks in<br />
and around Tongariro National Park<br />
brochure has further detail on these<br />
tramps and others in the national park.<br />
A topographical map is essential for<br />
longer walks.<br />
Above and right: Hiking in the Tongariro National Park - Image compliments of Visit Ruapehu<br />
Day Walks:<br />
Tongariro National<br />
Park’s spectacular day<br />
walks venture into all<br />
corners and will keep<br />
you occupied for a<br />
solid week.<br />
Tongariro Alpine Crossing:<br />
7–8 hr<br />
Snowy surrounds and low crowds make winter a fabulous time to hike<br />
the Crossing, but you’ll need to go with a guide unless you’re an expert<br />
alpine tramper. This challenging track starts at 1120m and winds up<br />
the Mangatepopo Valley to the saddle between Mts Tongariro and<br />
Ngauruhoe. You’re into crater territory as you reach the crossing’s<br />
highpoint at 1886m.<br />
The descent is via a rock scree track to the vivid Emerald Lakes/<br />
Ngā Rotopounamu (greenstone-hued lakes) and Blue Lake/Te Waiwhakaata-o-te-Rangihiroa<br />
(Rangihiroa’s mirror). The track then sidles<br />
around the northern slope of Tongariro to descend via a zigzag track<br />
past Ketetahi Shelter and down to the road end.<br />
Attempting the Tongariro<br />
Alpine Crossing in winter is a<br />
very different experience than<br />
during other times of the year.<br />
From May to October, snow<br />
and ice mean alpine skills<br />
and experience are essential.<br />
Therefore, the best and safest<br />
way to enjoy the Crossing in<br />
its full alpine glory is to go with<br />
guide. Two Tongariro Alpine<br />
Crossing guiding companies,<br />
with decades of experience<br />
and approved by the<br />
Department of Conservation,<br />
operate from National Park<br />
Village - Adrift Tongariro and<br />
<strong>Adventure</strong> Outdoors Tongariro,<br />
and can guide you safely<br />
across this incredible, yet risky,<br />
wintery wonderland.<br />
Multi Day Walks:<br />
Round the Mountain Track:<br />
Tama Lakes Tramping Track:<br />
Lake Surprise:<br />
There are two classic multi-day tramps in<br />
Tongariro: the Northern Circuit Great Walk<br />
and the Round the Mountain Track.<br />
The Tongariro Northern Circuit:<br />
3–4 days<br />
One of New Zealand’s Great Walks, this tramp can<br />
be completed in the winter months by experienced<br />
trampers with all the right gear, preparation and<br />
favourable conditions.<br />
It’s usually started in Whakapapa Village and walked<br />
clockwise, winding first to Mangetepopo Hut to join the<br />
Alpine Crossing with its craters and surreal lakes. The<br />
circuit then continues down the spectacular Oturere<br />
Valley and around Mt Ngauruhoe’s foothills towards<br />
historic Waihohonu Hut.<br />
The final day sees you hike over Tama saddle between<br />
Ngauruhoe & Ruapehu – with a possible detour to<br />
the must-see Tama Lakes – before heading past the<br />
tumbling Taranaki Falls to return to Whakapapa Village.<br />
4–6 days<br />
A more remote and advanced adventure than the<br />
Northern Circuit, this unforgettable tramp traverses<br />
a variety of landscapes from mountain beech forest,<br />
tussock country and alpine herbfields, to desert lands<br />
and glacial river valleys.<br />
As much of the track passes through alpine terrain,<br />
it is recommended that winter trips are completed<br />
with a guide. The rest of the year it can be walked by<br />
experienced, well-prepared trampers when the weather<br />
is favourable.<br />
Starting at Whakapapa, it heads clockwise around Mt<br />
Ruapehu taking in many of the park’s most famous<br />
sights: Taranaki Falls, Tama Lakes, Waitonga Falls,<br />
Lake Surprise and Silica Rapids. It also takes in the<br />
Rangipo desert, with its barren and peculiar beauty. Six<br />
huts along the way each have their own character, too.<br />
5–6 hr<br />
This memorable walk starts at Whakapapa Village<br />
along the Taranaki Falls Track with all its interesting<br />
landforms and gushing streams. At the top of Taranaki<br />
Falls, the track branches off through rolling tussock<br />
country and alpine herbfields towards Tama Lakes.<br />
Beyond the lower lake viewpoint (1240m), the track<br />
climbs steeply to a 1440m-viewpoint of the upper lake.<br />
Tama Lakes occupy several old explosion craters on<br />
Tama Saddle between Ruapehu and Ngauruhoe. In<br />
winter, it’s essential to check in with Whakapapa Visitor<br />
Centre on the current trail conditions.<br />
Old Blyth Tramping Track:<br />
4–5 hr<br />
Starting on the Ohakune Mountain Road, this track partly<br />
follows the historic route up Mt Ruapehu through significant<br />
vegetation including mixed beech forest. When Blyth Track<br />
was constructed in the early 1900s, much of the route was<br />
through alpine bog; you can see the remains of ‘corduroy’<br />
laid across the muddy surface. Return the same way or<br />
walk out to the Mountain Road via the Waitonga Falls/<br />
Round the Mountain Tramping Track, and then walk back<br />
down the road – the views are epic.<br />
5 hrs<br />
Few walks are as aptly named this, but a hidden lake<br />
isn’t the only surprise on this amazing day out. Starting<br />
high on Mt Ruapehu, this advanced trail heads through<br />
epic boulder fields, bluffs and scree slopes with alpine<br />
gardens boasting a colourful array of flowers, lichens and<br />
moss. A climb into Mangaturuturu Valley follows a waterfall<br />
flowing over an ancient lava cascade. You’ll also pass a<br />
70-year-old tramping hut, nestled amongst stunted forest.<br />
Ever-changing views stretch from Ruapehu’s peak to the<br />
edges of the volcanic plateau. The lake itself is tranquil and<br />
untouched. The trail starts 20 minutes’ drive up Ohakune<br />
Mountain Road.<br />
Historic Waihohonu Hut:<br />
3 hr<br />
It’s well worth the half-day return hike to see this historic<br />
hut, especially as you’ll get up close to the strange terrain<br />
of the Rangipo desert, deep beech forest, and tussockland.<br />
Built in 1903/04 as a stopover for stagecoaches, it’s<br />
constructed of a double layer of corrugated iron with a layer<br />
of pumice between. No longer used for accommodation, the<br />
hut is preserved as an historical building and is classified by<br />
the Heritage New Zealand. This track starts off the Desert<br />
Rd (SH1), signposted 35km south of Turangi.<br />
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RUN2302<br />
HOMEGROWN<br />
CENTRAL PLATEAU<br />
Short Walks:<br />
A series of short nature trails in Tongariro<br />
National Park take in the various habitats home<br />
to fascinating and diverse native flora and<br />
fauna, and are a great way to get to know the<br />
park’s places and stories.<br />
Taranaki Falls:<br />
2 hr<br />
A popular short walk form Whakapapa Village, this track’s upper and lower sections<br />
form a loop and cross a variety of landforms along the way. It also offers spectacular<br />
long-range views, and takes in various alpine vegetation types including pretty alpine<br />
shrublands and beech forest. On a clear day Ngauruhoe’s symmetrical cone and<br />
the older, eroded mountains of Tongariro and Pukekaikiore can be seen. There are<br />
plenty of lovely sights along Wairere Stream, too, including Taranaki Falls tumbling<br />
20 metres over a 15,000-year-old lava flow.<br />
Silica Rapids:<br />
Plenty of beautiful scenery to be found in the Tongariro National Park - Image compliments of Visit Ruapehu<br />
2 hr 30 min<br />
This is a slightly longer outing, also starting near<br />
the visitor centre in Whakapapa. It begins along<br />
Whakapapanui Stream, meandering through beech<br />
forest to meet the turn off to Silica Rapids. The track<br />
soon crosses a bubbling stream with a gold coloured<br />
bed caused by iron oxide clays from upstream swamps.<br />
There’s some lovely alpine vegetation along this walk<br />
and some delightful birdlife, too.<br />
Skyline via the Sky Waka:<br />
1.5–2 hrs<br />
A ride on Mt Ruapehu’s new state-of-the-art Sky Waka<br />
gondola is a must for any visitor to the national park.<br />
It whizzes you up in six unforgettable minutes to New<br />
Zealand’s highest café, on Knoll Ridge (2020m).<br />
Depending on snow conditions and your level of alpine<br />
experience, it may be possible to head further up the<br />
mountain, but check with the Whakapapa Visitor Centre<br />
or local guide companies first.<br />
Whakapapanui Walking Track:<br />
2 hr<br />
Another good leg-stretch from Whakapapa Village, this<br />
trail begins just beyond the visitor centre, following the<br />
gorgeous Whakapapanui Stream through beech forest<br />
to reach the road 3km below Whakapapa Village. Take<br />
in the epic mountain views as you walk back up to the<br />
village via the highway, or return back along the forest<br />
trail keeping an eye out for the endangered whio/blue<br />
duck.<br />
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Waitonga Falls Track:<br />
1.5 hrs<br />
You can walk to the national park’s highest waterfall<br />
on a well-formed track through mountain beech and<br />
kaikawaka (mountain cedar) forest. The track also<br />
passes Rotokawa, an alpine bog where the reflection<br />
of Mt Ruapehu can be seen on still days. The Falls<br />
themselves are 39m high and quite the sight! This track<br />
begins high on Ohakune Mountain Road, around 11km<br />
from town.<br />
Timber Trail, Pureora Forest<br />
DISCOVER MORE AT VISITRUAPEHU.COM
Biking:<br />
There are so many<br />
bike trails in the Central<br />
Plateau, too many to list<br />
here. So we've chosen<br />
a couple that you can<br />
access from each of the<br />
major towns in the area.<br />
HOMEGROWN<br />
CENTRAL PLATEAU<br />
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Maramataha Suspension Bridge on the Timber Trail - Image compliments of Visit Ruapehu<br />
Riders on the 42nd Traverse - Image compliments of Visit Ruapehu<br />
From Taupo:<br />
From Turangi:<br />
From National Park:<br />
1. Craters of the Moon (50km worth of<br />
trails)<br />
Grade 1-5<br />
This mountain bike park, situated just<br />
north of Lake Taupo, offers tracks for<br />
every level of rider, from family friendly<br />
trails to those for the more experienced<br />
riders. Some offer excellent views of the<br />
lake and river. Spend an hour or a full<br />
day exploring the trails.<br />
2. The Timber Trail (87km)<br />
Grade 2-3 (easy to intermediate)<br />
2 days<br />
This backcountry adventure starts in the<br />
Pureora Forest Village, between Te Kuiti<br />
and Mangakino. The first day is graded<br />
intermediate due to the initial climb. There<br />
is accommodation at the end of the day<br />
that needs to be booked in advance<br />
or you can chose to camp. Day two is<br />
considered easy to intermediate. Over<br />
the two days you’ll experience incredible<br />
scenery, suspension bridges and ancient<br />
native forests.<br />
3. Great Lake Trail 71km)<br />
Grade 3<br />
6 hours<br />
Considered by some, one of the best Grade<br />
3 cycle trails in the country. This trail follows<br />
the northeastern shoreline of Lake Taupo.<br />
This is an all-weather, all-seasons travese<br />
through native forest with incredible views<br />
across the lake towards the volcanoes of<br />
the Tongariro National Park.<br />
The trail has three distinct sections and can<br />
be ridden in one day if your fitness allows.<br />
Waihaha to Kotukutuku Stream (31km)<br />
Begins 54km from Taupo, highlights include<br />
a fun and flowing trail and biking over the<br />
Kotukutuku Waterfall. From here a water<br />
taxi will take you to the start of the next<br />
section.<br />
Whangamata Road to Kawakawa Bay and<br />
Kinloch (18km)<br />
This section begins with a graded climb to<br />
Rocky lookout, but it's worth the effort for<br />
the fantastic views.<br />
Kinlock to Whakaipo Bay (14km)<br />
The final section climbs gently over the<br />
Headland to Whakaipo Bay. You can do an<br />
additional 10km loop of the headland if you<br />
wish or continue to the finish at Whakaipo<br />
Bay. If you still have energy to burn then<br />
continue to ride another 13km to Taupo via<br />
Acacia Bay.<br />
4. Tongariro River Trail (15km loop)<br />
Grade 2<br />
1-2 hours<br />
Starting in Turangi, follow the<br />
Tongariro River, through farmland,<br />
native bush and across swing<br />
bridges. Multiple entry points and an<br />
easy ride with family. The Tongariro<br />
National Trout Hatchery makes for a<br />
great stop on the way.<br />
5. Tree Trunk Gorge (12km one way)<br />
Grade 3-4<br />
2-4 hours<br />
Situated on the eastern side of the<br />
mountain ranges this track takes you<br />
through river crossings and magnificent<br />
beech forest in the Kaimanawa Forest<br />
Park.<br />
6.Te Iringa (38km)<br />
Grade 5<br />
4-6 hours<br />
A track for expert riders only set in<br />
the backcountry of the Kaimanawa<br />
Forest Park. Navigating steep hills,<br />
fallen trees, and wetlands this track will<br />
challenge the most avid rider.<br />
7. Fishers Track (17km)<br />
Grade 2<br />
2-3 hours one way<br />
From the National Park Railway<br />
Station, Fishers Track is a mostly<br />
downhill trail with great views of the<br />
National Park mountains as well as<br />
Mt Taranaki (on a clear day).<br />
8. Marton Sash and Door<br />
Tramway (13.8km)<br />
Grade 2<br />
2 hour loop<br />
Leaving from National Park Village,<br />
the trail follows a recovered<br />
bush tramway route and some<br />
backcountry dirt roads past a mix of<br />
native forest and pine plantations.<br />
9.The Pines Tracks (10km worth of<br />
trails)<br />
Grade 3-4<br />
This mountain bike park, not far from<br />
National Park Village, offers trails for<br />
the intermediate to advanced riders.<br />
10. 42nd Traverse (46km)<br />
Grade 3-4<br />
4-7 hours<br />
Bike along the 42nd Traverse<br />
following an old logging road through<br />
the remote and rugged landscape<br />
of the Tongariro National Park.<br />
Start point 19km from National Park<br />
Village.<br />
There are a number of challegning<br />
sections on one of NZ most iconic<br />
mountain bike rides known for its long<br />
and rutted downhills.<br />
The track surfaces are often rutted<br />
with gravel and mud, and there are<br />
plenty of stream crossings and uphill<br />
sections to challenge you.<br />
Although the trail can be ridden either<br />
direction it is recommended that you<br />
start at Kapoors road end and finish<br />
in Owhanga. If you look at the crosssection<br />
map you can see why.<br />
Cross section of the 42nd Traverse<br />
Image compliments of DOC<br />
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Old Coach Road Trail - Image compliments of Visit Ruapehu<br />
Bikers on the Mountain to Sea Trail - Image compliments of Visit Ruapehu<br />
From Ohakune:<br />
11. Lakes Reserve (1.6km loop)<br />
Grade 1 (great for families)<br />
An easy loop ride that takes you<br />
around Lakes Reserve a short ride from<br />
Ohakune.<br />
12. Old Coach Road (15km one way)<br />
Grade 2<br />
2-4 hours one way<br />
Follow the old coach road that joins the<br />
two railheads of the never completed<br />
Northern Trunk Line in the 1900’s. The<br />
trail goes through farmland, native<br />
forest and across historic viaducts and<br />
tunnels. See the information centre in<br />
Ohakune for shuttle services to the start<br />
and you'll be able to bike back to the<br />
centre of Ohakune. The trail is varied<br />
and scenic with plenty of historical<br />
landmarks to break up the journey.<br />
You'll can finish off at the famed<br />
Powderkeg, a great place to reward<br />
yourself with a drink for your efforts.<br />
13. Rangataua Loop Track (18.7km)<br />
Grade 2-3<br />
Beautiful views of Ohakune and some<br />
beautiful New Zealand farms including<br />
great views of Mt Ruapehu along most<br />
of Ratamaire Road! The ride uses<br />
sealed roads and unsealed farm roads.<br />
14. Ruatiti Road and Middle Road<br />
(45km)<br />
Grade 3<br />
3-5 hours one way<br />
This gravel road is the link between<br />
the Ohakune Old Coach Road at<br />
Horopito and the Mangapurua Track<br />
which leads to the Whanganui<br />
National Park. Start at Horopito, just<br />
out from Ohakune, and follow the road<br />
alongside the Manganu-o-te-ao River<br />
to a great free camping and picnic<br />
spot in the Ruatiti Domain. Usually<br />
completed as part of the Mountains<br />
to Sea track but can be done alone.<br />
Mainly downhill, however there are<br />
some steep climbs towards the end.<br />
Multi Day Trips:<br />
15. Mountains to Sea (297km)<br />
Grade 2-3 (easy to intermediate) Plus<br />
one section of advanced terrain.<br />
1-6 days<br />
This trail takes you from the fringes<br />
of Mt Ruapehu to the coastal town of<br />
Whanganui, through alpine mountains<br />
and native forest. The track uses local<br />
biking tails, public roads and even a<br />
jet boat ride. You can choose to do<br />
sections of the track or the whole trail.<br />
There is plenty to see and great places<br />
to stop along the way.<br />
14<br />
15<br />
2<br />
7<br />
8<br />
9<br />
10<br />
12<br />
11<br />
13<br />
Grading system:<br />
Grade 1-2 = Easy: Flat. Few obstacles.<br />
Grade 2-3 = Intermediate: Moderately<br />
steep. Uneven terrain with some<br />
obstacles.<br />
Grade 3-4 = Advanced: Some technical<br />
terrain and limited alternate lines.<br />
Grade 4-5 = Expert: Mostly technical<br />
terrain. Advanced features with no<br />
alternate routes<br />
Terrain Park: With multiple rides and<br />
trails.<br />
5<br />
3<br />
4<br />
1<br />
6<br />
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Skiing the volcano: It's easier than it sounds<br />
Like Mt Fuji, Ruapehu rises from a desert<br />
plain and is a stunning site against a clear<br />
blue sky, and it is still an active volcano.<br />
There are three ski fields on Ruapehu, two<br />
commercial; Turoa and Whakapapa and one<br />
club field Tukino. The commercial fields are<br />
serviced by local communities; National Park<br />
Village and Ohakune. The two are operated<br />
together, with a combined lift ticket for both<br />
fields. Together, they are considered to be<br />
the largest ski resort in New Zealand and<br />
possibly the southern hemisphere.<br />
HOMEGROWN<br />
CENTRAL PLATEAU<br />
Whakapapa:<br />
Whakapapa is on the northern side of Mount<br />
Ruapehu in Tongariro National Park. The ski<br />
season is generally from late June to late<br />
October, depending on snow and weather<br />
conditions. The terrain at Whakapapa is<br />
loosely divided up as 25% beginner, 50%<br />
intermediate and 25% advanced. Recently<br />
there have been several significant changes<br />
to this side of the mountain with the<br />
introduction of a multi-million dollar mountain<br />
gondola which makes access quicker and<br />
easier.<br />
Access to the ski field is by Bruce Road, a<br />
two-lane, 6 km (3.7 mi) sealed road. There<br />
is the accommodation on the mountain, but<br />
you need to join a lodge. There is also an<br />
array of accommodation at the mountain<br />
base and National Park Village.<br />
Tukino Club Field<br />
Image compliments of Visit Ruapehu<br />
Tukino:<br />
Tukino on the eastern face of Mount<br />
Ruapehu. The field is a club managed<br />
field, but open to the general public. The<br />
ski area is serviced by two tows and an<br />
over-snow vehicle giving access for skiing.<br />
Tukino is known for its untouched trails,<br />
uncrowded slopes, friendly atmosphere<br />
and good weather. Accommodation is<br />
available at Tukino for those that want to<br />
stay and play, but bookings are essential.<br />
Access is via the Tukino Access Road from<br />
the Desert Road and is suitable for fourwheel-drive<br />
vehicles only during the winter<br />
months. Transport can be arranged by<br />
contacting the ski field.<br />
Whakapapa Ski Field - Image compliments of Visit Ruapehu<br />
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Image compliments Mt Ruapehu<br />
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STAY AT ADVENTURE LODGE, NATIONAL PARK<br />
RUAEPHU WINTER SPECIAL<br />
3 NIGHTS BED AND BREAKY<br />
$830 for studio Queen unit with My-Sky<br />
Package includes:<br />
Transport up the mountain with flexible pick up times<br />
Ride up the Gondola to NZs highest restaurant for two<br />
and lunch for two.<br />
(Those wanting larger family accommodation<br />
contact Gillian on 021351103)<br />
Bed and Breakfast<br />
Budget Lodge Accommodation<br />
Self-Contained Motel Units<br />
Packages available for skiing and Tongariro Crossing<br />
adventurenationalpark.co.nz | 0800 621 061<br />
Snowboarder at Turoa - Image compliments Mt Ruapehu<br />
Turoa:<br />
Turoa (or Tūroa) is on the south-western side of Mt<br />
Ruapehu. The area has been used for skiing since<br />
the completion of the Mountain Road, but the first lifts<br />
opened in 1978.<br />
There are two beginner areas, and many<br />
intermediate and advanced trails. The upper field is<br />
a mix of natural pipes, steep drops, fast plains, and<br />
more accessible slopes. The field is 500 hectares and<br />
has 722 metres (2,369 feet) vertical drops.<br />
The ski field is reached via the Mountain Road from<br />
the town of Ohakune. The Mountain Road was built<br />
by locals from Ohakune, mostly during weekends<br />
after they formed the Mountain Road Association<br />
in 1952. They aimed to open Ruapehu's southern<br />
slopes for skiing, partly as a replacement industry for<br />
the decline in logging which had sustained the town<br />
for the previous decades<br />
On a good day, it is possible to hike to the top of the<br />
mountain with skis or snowboard in hand, view the<br />
Crater Lake, and then ski back down to the field, or<br />
Whakapapa. Also on a clear day, Mount Taranaki can<br />
be seen.<br />
HOMEGROWN<br />
CENTRAL PLATEAU<br />
Central Taupo Motel accommodation<br />
searchers look for the best central location,<br />
quality reviews and great service.<br />
Welcome to Acapulco Motor Inn, the best<br />
affordable Taupo Motel.<br />
This Taupo Motel is a kiwi family run<br />
business that loves their job and takes pride<br />
in presenting the best choice for a Taupo<br />
Motel. A short walk to central Taupo with an<br />
array of shops and eateries. Try some local<br />
kiwi flavours and some Must Do activities to<br />
maximise your Taupo visit.<br />
Acapulco Taupo Motor Inn has a range of<br />
accommodation choices that can sleep from<br />
1 to 8 guests. Some Motel rooms have a spa<br />
Pool or spa bath. All Motel rooms have air<br />
conditioning.<br />
Check through our accommodation choices<br />
to match your needs to the best Acapulco<br />
Motor Inn room or apartment.<br />
A: 19 Rifle Range Road, Taupo 3330 | T: +64 7 378 7174 | F: +64 7 378 7555 | M: +64 21 800 118<br />
E: stay@acapulcotaupo.co.nz W: www.acapulcotaupo.co.nz
The Alpine Centre<br />
Home of Ski Biz and Snowzone!<br />
When you're looking to buy or rent ski & snowboarding gear, or for workshop tuning or Hiking Gear rental – The Alpine<br />
Centre located in National Park Village is the place to go.<br />
The Alpine Centre is an amalgamation of two long serving winter businesses Ski Biz and Snowzone (Roy Turner Ski<br />
Shop). At the end of the 2017 winter owners Shona and Robbie Forbes closed Snowzone @ Roy Turner Ski Shop for<br />
the last time, a business that had operated in National Park since 1964. With a plan to build a massive extension of the<br />
Ski Biz rental shop, joining the two long standing businesses, by creating one super store location for rental and retail<br />
both winter and summer, The Alpine Centre was created. Now, two years on we have a well-established Alpine shop with<br />
gear for hiking, camping, skiing and snowboarding and are open all year round.<br />
With the Corona Virus pandemic causing delays for all<br />
NZ ski areas its been hard to get an understanding of<br />
how/what may open this season, many customers may<br />
be turning to online buying of ski gear, and we also<br />
now have around 80% of our stock listed on our online<br />
shop.<br />
However, Our primary focus remains to be<br />
predominantly an actual, customer face to face service<br />
store. We aspire to offer real service and advice to<br />
everyone that comes in and are always prepared to<br />
go the extra mile to find the right equipment for our<br />
customers' needs if we don’t have it in store. For us<br />
it’s not about making a quick sale, see you later, we<br />
want to keep the customer, get the chance to tune their<br />
gear in the future, and keep a repour for many years<br />
to come.<br />
We believe when purchasing ski equipment, it's not<br />
a case of buying the cheapest, prettiest deal you<br />
can find online, but offering great sound advice and<br />
service means our customer has the best time on the<br />
snow. E.g. When your boots are not fitted correctly, it's<br />
like trying to drive with a flat tyre. Or you might think<br />
you're getting a great deal buying a cheap ski jacket or<br />
pants but are the specs good enough for our mountain<br />
conditions (waterproof, windproof, and breathable).<br />
Your helmet and goggles need to sit well together, but<br />
also fit with your head and face shape.<br />
Thankfully all our crew this season are returning<br />
staff from various past seasons bringing a wealth of<br />
experience and knowledge which is awesome for both<br />
us and our customers and a real bonus in this post<br />
(hopefully) Corona virus new normal.<br />
Our winter 2020 team at The Alpine Centre all share a<br />
passion for having fun on the snow and want to ensure<br />
that everyone who comes into our store are equipped<br />
with the right gear they need to have the best possible<br />
and memorable snow experience!<br />
Ski Biz / Snowzone @ The Alpine Centre<br />
10 Carroll Street, National Park Village<br />
Ph 07 8922 717<br />
www.thealpinecentre.co.nz<br />
SENDER TI<br />
A range of skis for those that are never not sending. Those willing to create and explore.<br />
Those who Ride Free. Each ski has a different personality. Designed to ensure you’ll find<br />
the perfect match for your style. For the last three years we’ve tested all over the globe.<br />
To ensure all conditions, terrain, and influences were considered. To build an all-new<br />
vision of freeride. Progressive. Inclusive. Irreverent. Athlete-approved. Ready to send.<br />
Welcome to BLACKOPS.<br />
ECO CONCEPTION<br />
The all-new BLACKOPS range has been developed with a strong focus on<br />
material sourcing and the product lifecycle. Each ski has been constructed<br />
using PEFC certified poplar or FSC® certified paulownia wood cores<br />
combined with recycled topsheet, base, and edge materials to help reduce<br />
our environmental impact. Ride Free my friends.<br />
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Active <strong>Adventure</strong>s<br />
Words and Images by Active <strong>Adventure</strong>s<br />
Now that you’ve explored every inch of your<br />
backyard, and house, and the internet – you’re<br />
probably itching to reconnect with friends and<br />
family and get back out adventuring in the great<br />
outdoors. We get it – the virtual tours aren’t doing<br />
much for us either anymore.<br />
When we dream of travel, most of us go to places<br />
in our minds that are far from our own backyards.<br />
However, this is set to change for many Kiwis as<br />
we collectively begin to look for adventure closer<br />
to home. Your plans for a midwinter European<br />
adventure being canned now gives you the<br />
unprecedented opportunity to see some of New<br />
Zealand’s best without the usual tourist buses or<br />
people getting in the way of your perfect shot. If<br />
you’ve always wanted to discover Milford Sound or<br />
bring your family on a real backcountry experience,<br />
now is a better time than ever.<br />
With over two decades of experience up their<br />
sleeves guiding thousands of happy travellers<br />
around the world, Active <strong>Adventure</strong>s take the<br />
hassle and risk out of organising your trip. You<br />
might think you know New Zealand, but their<br />
knowledgeable Kiwi guides will show you some of<br />
the country’s best kept secrets.<br />
Here’s why you can say ‘no’ to organising a trip by<br />
yourself, and instead get your family or group onto<br />
an Active <strong>Adventure</strong>.<br />
1. They’ll cater for all abilities<br />
All their trip itineraries include a detailed<br />
breakdown of the ‘activity level’ involved, from<br />
‘What’s the Rush’ right through to ‘Challenge<br />
Accepted’. They also provide detailed distance<br />
and elevation information for each hike, so you<br />
know exactly what you’re in for and you can make<br />
educated decisions about which trip is right for you.<br />
Within each trip they also have many options<br />
available like add-ons for those keen for more, or<br />
‘let’s just chill’ options for those who’ve reached<br />
their capacity for the day. Their guides are also<br />
there to help and encourage you through some of<br />
the more challenging activities that you might not<br />
feel so comfortable doing alone!<br />
2. They’ll cater for all requirements<br />
From specific diets to rooming requests to who<br />
gets the front seat on the bus, their guides will<br />
do everything they can to ensure that not only is<br />
everyone catered for, but everyone can get the<br />
maximum out of their holiday without worrying<br />
about individual plans. They look after the big<br />
stuff, so you can enjoy the small stuff. They also<br />
offer private trips if your group is over 6 people,<br />
meaning your experience will be completely<br />
personalised to meet your groups specific needs.<br />
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Your New Zealand <strong>Adventure</strong>,<br />
Your Way.<br />
BACKCOUNTRY<br />
3. They’ll bring you to new places, off<br />
the tourist trail<br />
Their trips have always included a mix of<br />
must-sees and hidden gems, but as a Kiwi<br />
visiting your own country, you’ve probably<br />
seen a LOT of the must-sees already.<br />
That's why they’ve developed 8 news trips,<br />
from 2 to 6 days, taken straight from their<br />
staff’s bucket-lists. From a backcountry<br />
adventure in Nelson Lakes National Park,<br />
to flying deep into Aspiring National Park<br />
to hike to the insanely blue Crucible Lake,<br />
to an assisted biking adventure on the Alps<br />
2 Ocean trail or a more relaxed retreat<br />
under the sun with amazing food and wine<br />
near Nelson – just take your pick!<br />
4. You know you’ll be in safe hands<br />
They’ve been guiding adventures here<br />
in New Zealand for 24 years now – and<br />
passion for the outdoors has lead them<br />
to start guiding in other parts of the world,<br />
like Patagonia and the Himalayas, always<br />
using New Zealand safety standards,<br />
which are some of the highest in the world.<br />
So, whether they’re talking about the food<br />
on your plate or crossing a river safely,<br />
they make sure their guides get the best<br />
training.<br />
5. They make logistics a breeze<br />
While on a trip with Active <strong>Adventure</strong>s you<br />
won’t have to worry about a thing. They<br />
make sure the jet boat on the Wilkin River<br />
is waiting for you just at the right time, or<br />
Clockwise from top left: Kayaking, Incredible scenery, the beautiful Braemar Station<br />
the boat onto the Milford Sound has your<br />
name and personal requests before you’ve<br />
set foot on board. You’ll get a packing list<br />
telling you how many pairs of socks you<br />
need, and even a pre-trip training program<br />
if you wish. Even if you’ve travelled these<br />
parts of the country before – logistics for a<br />
group can be a headache and can take the<br />
shine off your holiday planning. Let them<br />
do that for you. They'll even help you make<br />
sure you get to meet the trip at the right<br />
place and time, and have onward travel<br />
sorted for when it's time to say goodbye.<br />
6. Guaranteed value for your money<br />
Quite simply, it is now more affordable<br />
than ever to have your whole trip<br />
organised for you, and having someone<br />
else take care of the nitty gritty details is<br />
the most important ingredient in you being<br />
able to enjoy exploring, hassle free.<br />
Sure, you can book a trip by yourself, but<br />
you run the risk of getting messed around<br />
with accommodation that doesn’t live up to<br />
its photos, unreliable and uncomfortable<br />
transport, and you miss out on the<br />
expertise, knowledge and care of local<br />
guides. It’s better to invest your money in<br />
a trip that is guaranteed to be seamless<br />
and stress-free, than cut corners to try<br />
and save a few dollars by throwing a trip<br />
together yourself! Active <strong>Adventure</strong>s trips<br />
are all inclusive, providing great value for<br />
your money.<br />
7.Your guides will be the best of the<br />
best<br />
If you haven’t spent your lockdown<br />
period from Coronavirus studying the<br />
flora and fauna of New Zealand and the<br />
history of each area… don’t worry. On<br />
an Active <strong>Adventure</strong>s trip, you will have<br />
2 Kiwi guides along with you every step<br />
of the way who are not only great cooks,<br />
budding comedians, pack carriers, safe<br />
drivers and planning gurus – they’re<br />
also walking encyclopaedias. Traveling<br />
with their guides means that you won’t<br />
miss the opportunity to see the Southern<br />
Lights, have a flowering Rata pointed<br />
out to you, or hear about the history and<br />
movement of the glaciers. It's the kind<br />
of details that can take your experience<br />
from great to unforgettable. Oh, and it<br />
shouldn’t be forgotten that they know ALL<br />
the best coffee spots across the country,<br />
so you don’t have to waste your precious<br />
mornings hunting down the good stuff.<br />
They’ll do that part for you too!<br />
So just say ‘no’ to wrangling your friends<br />
and family for a trip. They’ll do it for you –<br />
headache free. Just decide which of their<br />
22 adventures is the most tempting to you,<br />
or just reach out at info@activeadventures.<br />
com or 03 450 0414 to get the advice of an<br />
adventure planner!<br />
Crafting Award-Winning<br />
Trips for decades<br />
The Kiwi way<br />
LUXURY FAMILY BIKING<br />
Choose Active <strong>Adventure</strong>s this summer and have confidence you’re joining<br />
New Zealand’s most experienced guiding company. An impeccable safety<br />
record, garnered over 24 years and more guiding concessions than any other<br />
operator.<br />
Our flexible assurance allows you to change your plans up to 30 days before<br />
your departure, so you can book stress-free.<br />
Explore hidden gems<br />
through our expert<br />
local Kiwi guides<br />
Visit activeadventures.com/new-zealand,<br />
email us at info@activeadventures.com or<br />
call us at 0800 234 726 to plan your adventure!<br />
Every detail covered<br />
to maximise your time<br />
and experience<br />
4.5/5 from 18,580 reviews<br />
Experience adventures<br />
the way you want<br />
them<br />
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IT'S COOL TO TRAVEL<br />
WHEN IT'S COOL<br />
By Jessica Middleton<br />
"Chill when its chill for when<br />
it's too hot you cannot. "<br />
Don't turn the cold shoulder on winter. You might just warm<br />
up to it, after all it's the perfect condition for soul-warming<br />
activities and adventures.<br />
It's honestly cool to travel when it's cool, and here's why.<br />
YOU LOVE YOUR VAN<br />
In winter most people hibernate because leaving the comfort<br />
of your warm snuggly home to go seek adventure isn't<br />
always inviting. Game changer, what if the adventure came<br />
to you, right on your doorstep? This kind of accessibility<br />
has now opened up a whole new world of opportunities to<br />
you, am I right? There's peace of mind knowing when you<br />
head out that your reliable van will be waiting for you with<br />
doors wide open, warm supplies, food, shelter, and all your<br />
essentials right in the car park. This means no freezing longdrawn<br />
drives back from an outing wearing wet soggy shoes,<br />
ugh the worst! We depend on our van to shield us in the<br />
winter, you just want to go up and hug the thing, but don't,<br />
because the exterior can remain pretty icy. Instead, you can<br />
thank your van by treating it with regular servicing as during<br />
colder months your van requires some close loving care.<br />
HOT CUPPAS AND SNUGGLES<br />
While you fix yourself a morning brew, make sure to take in<br />
all the breathtaking views, you can stay tucked up in bed if<br />
you want to. We have a habit of calling this - "Inside Out",<br />
where you get to experience outdoor surroundings with little<br />
guilt for lounging inside. It truly is the best of both worlds.<br />
This is the perfect environment to set aside time to relax<br />
and unwind, finish reading that book or art project you have<br />
been working on. Chill when its chill for when it's too hot you<br />
cannot. So if you have a travel companion take advantage of<br />
all the snuggle opportunities you have now.<br />
BUILT TO MOVE<br />
Have you ever been at home freezing away to find you go<br />
outside and surprise, it's warmer out than inside? I hate<br />
when I find myself in this situation, frustrated that I hadn't<br />
braced the day earlier. As good as downtime is, the winter<br />
world is awaiting you with an abundance of trails, lakes, and<br />
mountains to explore. Our top tip is to keep active daily, get<br />
that blood flowing and core temperature rising. We are built<br />
to move and so are our vans.<br />
76//WHERE ACTIONS SPEAK LOUDER THAN WORDS/#<strong>220</strong> ADVENTUREMAGAZINE.CO.NZ 77
A DIFFERENT PERSPECTIVE<br />
There is nothing worse than being in an incredible environment<br />
to be so bogged down by the weather you simply cannot enjoy<br />
it. I've had times I swear my brain has frozen over just from the<br />
memory of a place. Being from New Zealand, I have braced<br />
some arctic winters in my time, and to be honest growing up<br />
I dreaded winter every year. To the extent where I relocated<br />
to Australia just to escape from it. They say you don't know<br />
what's good until its gone, so I returned to my arched nemesis<br />
and went in with a different tactic - PREPARATION. I have had<br />
a complete shift in my mentality and prefer van life in winter, it<br />
truly is a breath of fresh air.<br />
RUG UP<br />
Warm clothes are the greatest protection against the winter<br />
chill and staying on top of it before the cold shakes your bones<br />
is highly important too. I seem to feel the cold far more than<br />
the average person. I cannot express my love for thermals,<br />
snow socks and beanies and wear them like it's going out of<br />
fashion. You'll often find me wearing multiple thermals at once<br />
and even in my snowboarding gear, do what YOU have to do,<br />
and never underestimate the cold. If you are prepared, winter<br />
van life is extremely rewarding, trust me.<br />
The perk of having a van as your home base is that small<br />
areas require little time to heat up. If you are at a powered site<br />
you may have access to get that heater cranking which means<br />
you'll be tucked up like a little burrito in no time.<br />
HEART-WARMING MEALS<br />
Speaking of food, cooking in winter is a task that you will<br />
look forward to and undoubtedly treasure. There's nothing<br />
quite like comfort food, it's like being served heaven on<br />
a plate, and this doesn't necessarily mean it needs to be<br />
unhealthy. Fueling yourself after a great hike with heartwarming<br />
meals and a warm cuppa is sure to keep your<br />
body toasty and spirits lifted. Home-cooked hot soups with<br />
buttered bread, mmm gets us every time.<br />
HOWS THE SERENITY?<br />
Do you ever just ache for those moments where you get to<br />
experience a magic spot all to yourselves? As social media<br />
has increased and tourism has spiked these untouched<br />
encounters are unfortunately harder to come by. Winter<br />
is a time where most people shy away, in turn, a vanlifers<br />
dreams come out to play. Winters gift is a raw experience<br />
without all the summer chaos and crowds. Peaceful and<br />
soul-fulfilling adventures are topped with plenty of spots to<br />
choose from with less competition.<br />
If winter vanlife hasn't grabbed your attention yet I want<br />
you to visualise it. Picture waking to the morning sunlight<br />
glistening from the dewdrops on your window. Find yourself<br />
awakening in a bed of clouds formed by the fog from rivers,<br />
forests, and oceans nearby. These are perfect conditions for<br />
a photographers dream, the adventure is honestly surreal<br />
and provides a majestic start to your day.<br />
THERMAL POOLS, BEACHES, AND ONSENS<br />
This world is full of hidden gems and if you are traveling in<br />
New Zealand, the most rewarding winter experience is the<br />
moment you stumble across thermal pools and hot water<br />
beaches. The only issue is you'll never want to leave! We<br />
have hiked through the Kaweka Ranges and ended the day<br />
by soaking in the natural hot springs, perfect for soothing<br />
those adventure ridden muscles.<br />
OFF SEASON IS IN SEASON<br />
Looking to spice up your winter? Winter travel is regarded<br />
as 'off-season' you will be thrilled to hear rentals come<br />
at a lower cost. So our secrets out that vanlife is in fact,<br />
enjoyable in any season. We encourage you to go discover<br />
it first hand.<br />
NEW EXPERIENCES<br />
Traveled your country in summer and think you have seen<br />
it all? I urge you to go back and do it in winter, you will gain<br />
a totally different experience! Not only does the scenery<br />
change it is accompanied by a complete shift in mood too.<br />
Some places are even unrecognisable especially if they<br />
have been sprinkled with snow, now that's something worth<br />
traveling for.<br />
FIRE AND STARGAZING<br />
Fire packs a punch, it not only brings light on the<br />
subject it brings warmth too, and the subject in this<br />
instance is overcoming the tough winter vanlife<br />
reputation that even I admit I once believed in. We<br />
honor fire for the contrast between warmth/cold, dark/<br />
light and I guess what it boils up to is we have complete<br />
respect and appreciation for it. We have spent<br />
countless nights by the firelight gazing up at all the<br />
stars listening to the sounds of nature, time passing us<br />
by as we lay there deep in thought.<br />
For me, winter vanlife is like the story of 'Beauty and<br />
the Beast' I had to give it a chance to see its amazing<br />
qualities, see it for what it truly is. So now you know<br />
its possible to do van life in winter, but that you can<br />
completely fall in love with it too.<br />
Warm Regards,<br />
Jess<br />
Follow Jess and Jordan: @our_van_life_ | @jessmiddletonxo | @jordan_whitcombe<br />
78//WHERE ACTIONS SPEAK LOUDER THAN WORDS/#<strong>220</strong> ADVENTUREMAGAZINE.CO.NZ 79
"There is nothing like driving<br />
down the highway with no<br />
air conditioning, seeing the<br />
Colorado River, and jumping<br />
in. There is no schedule and we<br />
are free to explore whatever we<br />
want whenever we want. "<br />
LIVE FOR<br />
ADVANTURE<br />
By Brittany Henning<br />
Karma has a pretty funny way of<br />
making life work, putting people in<br />
the right place at the right time. We<br />
had a decision to make, chase our<br />
career and move to New York or buy<br />
a van and see the world. Well a few<br />
months later, unbeknownst to us,<br />
buying a van was the best decision<br />
we could have ever made, not only<br />
because van life is awesome but<br />
also because there was a pandemic<br />
coming and moving to New York<br />
would have been a nightmare.<br />
Drew Glickman: I am from<br />
Templeton, California. I work as a<br />
freelance cinematographer filming<br />
everything from brand content, reality<br />
tv, and documentaries. Traveling<br />
has been a passion of mine since I<br />
was small. When I was younger my<br />
family would travel the west coast<br />
and camp anywhere from the sierras<br />
to Baja Mexico. These early trips<br />
installed the love of travel in me.<br />
Since then I have searched out every<br />
way to travel for cheap and see the<br />
world.<br />
Brittany Henning: I am from Aiken,<br />
SC. I also work as a freelancer<br />
in event marketing. I never really<br />
started traveling until I met Drew, but<br />
ever since our first trip to Thailand<br />
four years ago I’m addicted.<br />
80//WHERE ACTIONS SPEAK LOUDER THAN WORDS/#<strong>220</strong><br />
ADVENTUREMAGAZINE.CO.NZ 81
About a year ago, we started looking through Facebook<br />
marketplace trying to find an upgrade to our 1998 Toyota<br />
Tacoma. Drew built a bed in the back of it with storage and a<br />
camper shell on top. It was perfect for short road trips, but no<br />
way we could live in it. We wanted something more. We came<br />
across a 2004 Sprinter Van 2500 with a 140 inch wheel base.<br />
We drove all the way to Charlotte, NC to pick up our new<br />
home. Drew, being 5’10, specifically wanted this van so he<br />
could stand up in it without bumping his head. It’s small enough<br />
to parallel park in a big city, but big enough to live in. Perfecto!<br />
Ten months, $8000, and one million Home Depot trips later we<br />
had our new home customized the way we wanted it. Drew and<br />
his dad built everything from scratch with the help of Youtube<br />
Vanlife Build videos. Their motto: “90% thinking, 10% working.”<br />
As we hit the open road the first day you could only imagine the<br />
feelings and energy that was going through us. The excitement<br />
of what’s to come, the sadness of what we are leaving behind<br />
and the fear of the unknown are only a few. That is, until about<br />
3 stop lights from our old drive way that we got rear ended.<br />
Luckily there was no damage but it sure got us started into<br />
what Vanlife is realistically like.<br />
What is full-time Vanlife like you ask? Oh man, it’s exhilarating!<br />
Not everyone is cut out to live this way. There is nothing like<br />
driving down the highway with no air conditioning, seeing the<br />
Colorado River, and jumping in. There is no schedule and we<br />
are free to explore whatever we want whenever we want. Just<br />
the other day, in the Sedona desert we looked at each other<br />
and said “Let’s climb up that mountain and do yoga.” It was far<br />
away from everyone and so peaceful.<br />
There are no rules and we can live in whatever state we want<br />
to and have no obligations. The more terrifying moments<br />
come the longer you live like this. As we find places to sleep<br />
(Walmart parking lots and rest areas) we never know who<br />
might come knocking at our door at 3am. A cop telling us to<br />
leave? A scary man threatening our lives? We just never know.<br />
We also have the anxiety of driving around our entire life that<br />
could be taken from us at any second. Our van is our house/<br />
car with everything we own inside. All of these moments put<br />
together are what makes Vanlife so exciting and we wouldn’t<br />
want it any other way.<br />
There are challenges and there are rewards. Everyone asks<br />
us, “Do you still love each other?” Yes, we do, but we have<br />
both struggled living with another human in such a small space.<br />
“Why didn’t you clean your dishes?” “You’re going the wrong<br />
way!” “You killed my succulent!” I could go on, but our four-year<br />
relationship is definitely being tested every day and we look<br />
at it as just another experience. Other challenges we face are<br />
keeping things clean and occasional boredom. Cleaning is hard<br />
when you have limited amount of water to wash dishes. We<br />
have three 6-gallon water tanks, but it still doesn’t seem to be<br />
enough. Bugs LOVE to fly in the second you open the door. It’s<br />
a fun game of “who can catch the moth before it disappears,<br />
and we find it in our bed later”.<br />
We have picked up reading a lot more since we don’t have a<br />
tv to binge watch every show on Netflix. Drew plays the mouth<br />
harp and I play the ukulele to pass the time. These challenges<br />
are nothing compared to the rewards we receive in exchange.<br />
We have traveled all over the world, but our wanderlust is<br />
never fulfilled fully. Every city has a story and we want to<br />
read every one. From hiking next to grizzly bears in Alaska to<br />
wakeboarding in Brazil. We hope to take our home on wheels<br />
to it all.<br />
Drew and Brittany in their home away from home<br />
82//WHERE ACTIONS SPEAK LOUDER THAN WORDS/#<strong>220</strong>
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URBAN<br />
DIVERSION<br />
WINTERY TALES<br />
URBAN<br />
INNOVATION<br />
HYDRO FLASK 32oz (946mL)<br />
Lightweight Wide Mouth Trail<br />
Series: Clay, Obsidian & Slate<br />
Our Lightweight Trail Series flasks<br />
are 25% lighter, making it easier to<br />
take your cold hydration wherever<br />
your adventure takes you.<br />
RRP: $109.99<br />
HYDROFLASK.CO.NZ<br />
Ghost of Everest<br />
Before Edmund Hillary and Tenzing<br />
Norgay reached the summit of<br />
Mt Everest, British climbers,<br />
George Mallory and Andrew Irvine<br />
attempted the same feat. However<br />
they disappeared during the June<br />
1924 attempt on the summit leaving<br />
significant questions unanswered.<br />
Ghost of Everest recounts the<br />
expedition and the 1999 search for<br />
their bodies in enthralling detail.<br />
In the Kingdom of Ice<br />
In 1879, the wealthy owner of The New<br />
York Herald, sent Captain GEorge De<br />
Long on a North Pole expedition which hit<br />
pack ice and was stuck for two years. This<br />
book recounts the epic tale of survival.<br />
Enduring everything from snow blindness<br />
and polar bears to ferocious storms<br />
and labyrinths of ice, the crew battled<br />
madness and starvation as they struggled<br />
desperately to survive. With thrilling<br />
twists and turns, In The Kingdom of Ice is<br />
a tale of heroism and determination in the<br />
most brutal place on Earth.<br />
Terra Incognita<br />
This is a book about the call of the wild<br />
and the response of the spirit to a country<br />
that exists perhaps most vividly in the<br />
mind. Sara Wheeler spent seven months<br />
in Antarctica, living with its scientists<br />
and dreamers. No book is more true to<br />
the spirit of that continent–beguiling,<br />
enchanted and vast beyond the furthest<br />
reaches of our imagination.<br />
Black Nanopresso<br />
Nanopresso Black, built around<br />
a newly patented pumping<br />
system, is capable of reaching,<br />
with the help of your hands, a<br />
maximum of 18 bars (261 PSI)<br />
of pressure for unparalleled<br />
coffee extractions qualities.<br />
The Nanopresso works best<br />
with finely ground coffee that is<br />
tamped hard.<br />
PRESSO.CO.NZ<br />
Stoke dark<br />
Fill your mouth with toasted malts, balanced<br />
by dry-hop flavours, for an indulgent yet easy<br />
drinking dark ale. NO artificial additives, NO<br />
added sugar, NO colouring or preservatives.<br />
STOKEBEER.CO.NZ<br />
Welcome to the Goddam<br />
Ice Cube<br />
Icefall<br />
Icefall is a thrilling adventure story and<br />
a report from the extremes of the planet,<br />
taking you to collapsing Andean glaciers,<br />
hidden jungles in Honduras, and the<br />
highest points on Earth. In this gripping<br />
account, our changing climate is not a<br />
matter of politics; it's a matter of life and<br />
death and the human will to survive and<br />
thrive in the face of it.<br />
Weaving fast-paced adventure<br />
writing and ethnographic<br />
journalism with elegantly wrought<br />
reflections on identity, Welcome to<br />
the Goddamn Ice Cube captures<br />
the triumphs and the perils of<br />
Braverman’s journey to selfdiscovery<br />
and independence in a<br />
landscape that is as beautiful as it<br />
is unforgiving.<br />
Stoke APA<br />
Our version of an American classic, the<br />
confident malt base supports a lively hop<br />
blend that delivers resinous, zesty, stone fruit<br />
aromas. NO artificial additives, NO added<br />
sugar, NO colouring or preservatives.<br />
STOKEBEER.CO.NZ<br />
lyres non-alcoholic spirits<br />
Lyre’s is a premium range of 12 unique non-alcoholic<br />
variants, crafted to pay homage to the flavours of the<br />
world’s most classic, time tested spirits.<br />
RRP: $44.99<br />
LYERS.COM.AU<br />
84//WHERE ACTIONS SPEAK LOUDER THAN WORDS/#<strong>220</strong>
Gear guide<br />
Looking for a jacket to keep<br />
you warm and dry? We've got<br />
what you need...<br />
b<br />
c<br />
A<br />
d<br />
e<br />
a: Rab Electron<br />
The Electron Jacket is a mid-weight, technical down jacket, with a water-resistant Pertex® outer shell, designed for<br />
year-round climbing and mountain use. The Electron is designed with a stitch-through construction throughout, with<br />
varying size baffles to help reduce bulk in key areas and to help eliminate cold spots.190g/7oz (size Large) of 800FP<br />
European Goose Down provides exceptional levels of warmth and features a small-volume helmet-compatible hood.<br />
Key technical features include YKK® VISLON® zips throughout, elasticated stretch woven cuffs and a zipped internal<br />
security pocket.The Electron Jacket is designed for cold weather climbing and mountain use, however with high levels<br />
of comfort and packability, it is suitable for day-to-day winter use.<br />
RRP $549.95<br />
WWW.OUTFITTERS.NET.NZ<br />
b: Rab valiance<br />
With 170g of 800-fill power<br />
RDS-certified hydrophobic<br />
European goose down, nylon<br />
inner, Pertex Shield taped<br />
waterproof outer, bonded<br />
narrow box-wall construction,<br />
synthetic insulation filled hood<br />
and cuffs, helmet-compatible,<br />
wired peak, YPP zips, hand<br />
warmer pockets, internal<br />
security pocket, drawcord hem,<br />
stuff sack. 750g (m), 615g (w).<br />
RRP $699.95<br />
WWW. OUTFITTERS.NET.NZ<br />
c: Rab Microlight Alpine<br />
Filled with 143g of 750-fill<br />
power hydrophobic down,<br />
RDS-certified, water-resistant<br />
Pertex Quantum Infinity<br />
Weave fabric, harnesscompatible<br />
hand pockets,<br />
two-way front zip with<br />
insulated zip baffle, stretch<br />
cuffs fit over gloves, helmetcompatible<br />
hood with an<br />
internal stretch gaiter to seal<br />
out wind. 470g (m), 430g (w).<br />
RRP $399.95<br />
WWW. OUTFITTERS.NET.NZ<br />
d: marmot featherless<br />
hybrid jacket<br />
The light-weight jacket will<br />
keep you warm and dry in<br />
chilly, damp weather without<br />
weighing down you or your<br />
pack. 3M Thinsulate<br />
Recycled Featherless<br />
Insulation is made with 75%<br />
recycled loose-fill fibres that<br />
feel just as warm as 700 fill<br />
power down, but still perform<br />
in wet conditions.<br />
RRP $349.95<br />
WWW. MARMOTNZ.CO.NZ<br />
e: marmot featherless<br />
hoody<br />
The lightweight Women's<br />
Featherless Hoody features<br />
3M Thinsulate Recycled<br />
Featherless Insulation that<br />
is made with 75% recycled<br />
loose-fill fibers that feel just<br />
as warm as 700 fill power<br />
down, but still perform in wet<br />
conditions. This space-saving<br />
jacket packs into its own<br />
pocket.<br />
RRP $449.00<br />
WWW. MARMOTNZ.CO.NZ
Gear guide<br />
g: macpac Ascend Hooded Down Jacket<br />
Made from a stretchy nylon/elastane fabric and filled with 650 loft RDS duck down — ‘RDS’ being the Responsible<br />
Down Standard for the ethical sourcing of down — the Ascend Jacket is warm and flexible. In addition to the<br />
elastane content, the unique fabric weave is designed to create ‘stepped’ baffles, which binds the fabric in a way<br />
that still allows it to stretch with you. To maximise warmth, the elastic bound hood, hem and cuffs help to trap warm<br />
air against your body, while discreet zipped pockets keep hands cosy when the temperature drops.<br />
RRP $379.99<br />
WWW.MACPAC.CO.NZ<br />
88//WHERE ACTIONS SPEAK LOUDER THAN WORDS/#<strong>220</strong><br />
A: Merrell Men's Glacial<br />
Ascent Hoody<br />
Synthetic warmth when wet<br />
insulation. A featherless<br />
insulated jacket that uses<br />
700 fill power loose synthetic<br />
fibers, created by scientists<br />
to mimic the qualities of down<br />
when dry and is warmer than<br />
down when wet. Designed<br />
with a slightly longer length<br />
for ease of wear in urban or<br />
outdoor environments.<br />
RRP $399.00<br />
WWW.MERRELL.CO.NZ<br />
b: outdoor research alpine<br />
down hooded jacket<br />
Made with water- and windresistant<br />
Pertex® Quantum<br />
fabrics, the shoulders, sleeves<br />
and hood feature a heavier<br />
weight for durability, while<br />
the lighter weight traps the<br />
insulating warmth of 800-fill<br />
responsibly-sourced down<br />
in a baffled construction that<br />
eliminates cold spots. (Men's<br />
and women's available)<br />
RRP $649.99<br />
WWW.BIVOUAC.CO.NZ<br />
C: Rab Kaon<br />
Hybrid jacket with 70g of<br />
800-fill power RDS-certified<br />
hydrophobic European goose<br />
down in hood and body,<br />
Stratos synthetic insulation<br />
in shoulders, cuffs and hips.<br />
Ripstop nylon fabric, stitchthrough<br />
construction, YKK<br />
reverse coil chest pocket, YKK<br />
front zip, half hem drawcord,<br />
stuff sack. 250g (m), 235g (w).<br />
RRP $399.95<br />
WWW.OUTFITTERS.NET.NZ<br />
d: Merrell women's<br />
Ridgevent Hybrid Hoody<br />
Perfect cold weather insulation<br />
for every body. We engineered<br />
the Ridgevent to alleviate<br />
overheating while hiking in<br />
cooler temperatures. Heatmapped<br />
back baffles provide a<br />
different balance of insulation<br />
and ventilation for either men or<br />
women. Blending 65% goose<br />
down and 35% synthetic fibres<br />
for warmth even when wet.<br />
RRP $449.00<br />
WWW.MERRELL.CO.NZ
Gear guide<br />
B<br />
C<br />
D<br />
E<br />
A: Patagonia Men's Macro Puff Hoody<br />
We took the technology and successes of our revolutionary Micro Puff Hoody and expanded upon them to create the<br />
Macro Puff® Hoody, an even warmer answer to biting cold. Its ultralight recycled nylon ripstop shell with DWR finish<br />
stands guard against outside elements. The alpine helmet–compatible hood adjusts with a single pull for cocoon-like<br />
warmth without messing with your peripheral vision. Inside, the Hoody features 135-g synthetic, down-like PlumaFill<br />
insulation in the body and 90-g PlumaFill in the sleeves and sides (compared to 65-g overall for the Micro Puff),<br />
wrapping you in deep, water-resistant warmth without weighing you down. PlumaFill replicates the structure of down<br />
for great loft but offers the warm-when-wet benefit of synthetic. We quilt the insulation with a unique, minimal-stitch<br />
construction to stabilize it and maximize loft. The two-way center-front zipper’s storm flap seals out drafts, and a soft<br />
zipper garage at the chin saves your skin. Plenty of pockets sit where you need them, in and out, and the whole toasty<br />
package stuffs down small into a separate stuffsack. Fair Trade Certified sewn. 434g.<br />
RRP $659.99<br />
WWW.PATAGONIA.CO.NZ<br />
b: Outdoor Research Refuge<br />
Hooded Jacket<br />
The water-resistant Refuge<br />
Hooded Jacket uses high-loft<br />
VerticalX synthetic insulation<br />
technology for resilient, breathable<br />
performance that will keep you<br />
warm even when wet and so<br />
compressible you can stow the<br />
jacket into its own hand pocket. Its<br />
helmet-compatible hood and an<br />
elastic-drawcord hem allow you to<br />
further seal out the elements.<br />
RRP $419.99<br />
WWW.BIVOUAC.CO.NZ<br />
c: macpac NZAT Arrowsmith<br />
HyperDRY Hooded Down<br />
Jacket<br />
A winter down jacket for alpine<br />
conditions, the NZAT Arrowsmith<br />
features an ultralight Pertex®<br />
Quantum shell, DWR (C6) finish,<br />
800 loft HyperDRY RDS waterresistant<br />
goose down, boxed<br />
and sewn-through baffles, large<br />
zipped hand pockets, two internal<br />
mesh pockets, helmet compatible<br />
hood and internal fleece cuff.<br />
RRP $659.99<br />
WWW.MACPAC.CO.NZ<br />
d: Outdoor Research<br />
MicroGravity AscentShell<br />
Jacket<br />
The MicroGravity AscentShell Jacket<br />
is a lightweight, fully waterproof<br />
jacket built to withstand the changing<br />
conditions in high-alpine terrain<br />
while also breathing when you're<br />
working hard via award-winning<br />
AscentShell technology. Dynamic<br />
Reach underarm panels and the<br />
ability to stow it in its own pocket<br />
when the conditions improve.<br />
RRP $499.99<br />
WWW.BIVOUAC.CO.NZ<br />
e: Macpac Nazomi Pertex®<br />
Rain Jacket<br />
A lightweight alpine shell, the<br />
Nazomi is waterproof, windproof<br />
and breathable with a Pertex®<br />
Shield Pro 3-layer construction,<br />
water-resistant YKK®<br />
AquaGuard® zips, high collar<br />
with offset zip, helmet compatible<br />
hood, raised harness compatible<br />
hand pockets, underarm lift<br />
patterning.<br />
RRP $499.99<br />
WWW.MACPAC.CO.NZ
Gear guide<br />
A<br />
c<br />
d<br />
B<br />
e<br />
f<br />
A: RAB Xenon<br />
Stratos recycled polyester synthetic<br />
insulation, ripstop lining and outer<br />
fabric, under helmet hood with<br />
stretch binding, two-way opening<br />
YKK front zip with insulated internal<br />
zip baffle and chin guard, zippered<br />
handwarmer pockets, internal<br />
zippered pocket, stuffs into pocket,<br />
elasticated cuffs, hem drawcord.<br />
326g (m), 285g (w).<br />
RRP $349.95<br />
WWW.OUTFITTERS.NET.NZ<br />
b: Merrell women's Whisper Rain<br />
Focus on the trail, not the weather. Be present and in the moment while in the outdoors<br />
with a rain shell so quiet you can hear the enthralling sounds of nature. The wind howling,<br />
the rain pattering, the birds chirping and the leaves rustling. The Whisper Rain is highly<br />
waterproof but feels as comfortable as a softshell.<br />
+ 20K/20K fully seam-sealed waterproof and breathable jacket keeps water and wind out<br />
+ Built with four-way stretch to provide comfort and ultimate ease of movement<br />
+ A swish-free durable three-layer construction gives you long-lasting protection against the<br />
elements<br />
+ PFC free Durable Water Repellency (DWR) finish<br />
RRP $399.00<br />
WWW.MERRELL.CO.NZ<br />
c: Cactus rain jacket<br />
Built from ultra-tough 3 layer WTF-<br />
3 fabric, this heavy-duty jacket will<br />
protect you from rain, wind, snow,<br />
and whatever else nature throws<br />
at you - and is guaranteed to last<br />
the distance in tough New Zealand<br />
conditions.<br />
RRP $599.00<br />
WWW.CACTUSOUTDOOR.CO.NZ<br />
d: Hydrophobia<br />
Widely referred to as New<br />
Zealand’s No 1 tramping jacket.<br />
Tested thoroughly through<br />
hard wearing and drenching<br />
conditions with length that<br />
makes it ideal for tramping in<br />
the wet or everyday wet and<br />
wind weather protection.<br />
RRP $549.00<br />
WWW.EARTHSEASKY.CO.NZ<br />
e: Patagonia Men's<br />
Torrentshell 3L Jacket<br />
Using H2No® Performance<br />
Standard technology the<br />
Torrentshell provides comfort<br />
and protection in soaking<br />
storms and steady drizzles.<br />
The 3-layer jacket features<br />
100% recycled nylon face<br />
fabric, DWR finish, and tricot<br />
backer. Fair Trade Certified<br />
sewn.<br />
RRP $249.99<br />
WWW.PATAGONIA.CO.NZ<br />
f: Nano Primaloft Jacket<br />
A Primaloft jacket with a<br />
seam sealed waterproof shell,<br />
the Nano is suitable for the<br />
most testing conditions. The<br />
combination of a lightweight<br />
waterproof and breathable<br />
Entrant shell and 135gm/m2<br />
Primaloft Gold means warmth<br />
you can depend on.<br />
RRP $799.00<br />
WWW.EARTHSEASKY.CO.NZ
<strong>Issue</strong> #196//new zealand’s premIer adventure magazIne sInce 1981<br />
new zealand<br />
<strong>Issue</strong> 196<br />
JUN/JUL 16<br />
NZ $9.20 incl. GST<br />
AUST $6.90 incl. GST<br />
USA $9.99<br />
CANADA $9.99<br />
hiking winter<br />
wanaka<br />
ice climbing<br />
first rule<br />
mt aspiring<br />
don’t look down<br />
iceland<br />
colder than you think<br />
gear guide<br />
more than just a puffer<br />
<strong>Issue</strong> #196//new zealand’s premIer adventure magazIne sInce 1981<br />
new zealand<br />
<strong>Issue</strong> 196<br />
JUN/JUL 16<br />
NZ $9.20 incl. GST<br />
AUST $6.90 incl. GST<br />
USA $9.99<br />
CANADA $9.99<br />
hiking winter<br />
wanaka<br />
ice climbing<br />
first rule<br />
mt aspiring<br />
don’t look down<br />
iceland<br />
colder than you think<br />
gear guide<br />
more than just a puffer<br />
education<br />
in the outdoors*<br />
Back Country Cuisine<br />
CHICKEN CARBONARA: A freeze dried<br />
chicken and pasta dish, served in a<br />
creamy italian style sauce.<br />
MUSHROOM BOLOGNAISE - VEGAN:<br />
Mushrooms with tomato in a savory sauce,<br />
served with noodles. Vegan.<br />
Available in one serve 90g or two serve<br />
175g sizes.<br />
RRP $8.99 and $13.49<br />
CHOCOLATE BROWNIE PUDDING: Our<br />
take on chocolate self-saucing pudding,<br />
with chocolate brownie, boysenberries and<br />
chocolate sauce. Gluten Free.<br />
RRP 150g $12.49<br />
WWW.BACKCOUNTRYCUISINE.CO.NZ<br />
SUBSCRIBE<br />
AND GO INTO THE DRAW TO WIN ONE OF THESE GREAT<br />
JACKETS FROM OUR GOOD FRIENDS AT BIVOUAC<br />
Back Country Cuisine<br />
ICED MOCHA: Our mocha is made<br />
with chocolate and coffee combined<br />
with soft serve to give you a tasty<br />
drink on the run. Gluten Free. 85g.<br />
RRP $3.99<br />
BACKCOUNTRYCUISINE.CO.NZ<br />
FUELING<br />
HIKING<br />
ADVENTURES<br />
FOR 21 YEARS<br />
Wherever your next<br />
adventure is about to<br />
lead you, we’ve got<br />
the goods to keep you<br />
going.<br />
Est. 1998 Back Country<br />
Cuisine specialises in<br />
a range of freeze-dried<br />
products, from tasty<br />
meals to snacks and<br />
everything in between, to<br />
keep your energy levels up<br />
and your adventures wild.<br />
backcountrycuisine.co.nz<br />
<br />
<br />
Sunsaver Super-Flex 14-Watt Solar<br />
Charger<br />
Putting out over 2.5-Amps of output on a<br />
sunny day you’ll charge your phone and<br />
devices in no time at all, straight from the<br />
sun.<br />
RRP: $199.00<br />
WWW.SUNSAVER.CO.NZ<br />
Kiwi camping 1.2L Collapsible<br />
Turbo Pot<br />
Flexible, lightweight and durable.<br />
Collapses for easy storage. Durable<br />
translucent lid. Hard-anodised<br />
aluminium base heats evenly and<br />
efficiently. Heat resistant silicone is<br />
PBA-free and easy to clean.<br />
RRP: $69.99<br />
WWW.KIWICAMPING.CO.NZ<br />
Sunsaver Classic 16,000mAh Solar<br />
Power Bank<br />
Built tough for the outdoors and with a<br />
massive battery capacity you can keep all<br />
your devices charged no matter where your<br />
adventure takes you.<br />
RRP: $119.00<br />
WWW.SUNSAVER.CO.NZ<br />
Outdoor Research Refuge Air Hooded Jacket<br />
The Refuge Air Hooded Jacket is a water- and wind-resistant jacket<br />
that helps you retain heat while working and sweating hard using the<br />
adaptable VerticalX Air insulation that keeps you warm when you<br />
need it and rapidly moves moisture the moment you start to perspire.<br />
This jacket utilises ActiveTemp, a thermo-regulating technology that<br />
keeps you cool, dry and comfortable on your highly-active adventures.<br />
RRP: $399.99<br />
BIVOUAC.CO.NZ<br />
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FEED YOUR ADDICTION<br />
Like a ‘perfect storm’, we have seen a dramatic growth and<br />
development in online stores over the past 5 years. Now as we are<br />
made to keep our ‘distance’, online, ecommerce takes on a whole<br />
new meaning and value. We are dedicating these pages to our client’s<br />
online stores; some you will be able to buy from, some you will be able<br />
drool over. Buy, compare, research and prepare, these online stores are<br />
a great way to feed your adventure addiction while you are still at home.<br />
Ultra lightweight running shoes, made by runners. No<br />
matter where the trail takes you, Hoka One One will<br />
have you covered.<br />
www.hokaoneone.co.nz<br />
Earth Sea Sky has more than 25 years experience<br />
in New Zealand’s outdoor clothing industry. Their<br />
experience in design, production and sales fills a<br />
growing need in the market for outdoor clothing that<br />
combined comfort, style and performance.<br />
www.earthseasky.co.nz<br />
Never have a dead phone<br />
again! Because now you can<br />
charge straight from the Sun<br />
with SunSaver. Perfect for<br />
that week-long hike, day at<br />
the beach, or back-up for any<br />
emergency. Check us out at:<br />
www.sunsaver.co.nz<br />
A leading importer and<br />
distributor of snow and<br />
outdoor products in New<br />
Zealand. Stock includes<br />
Salewa, Lange, Dynastar,<br />
Spyder and more.<br />
www.bobo.co.nz<br />
Bivouac Outdoor stock the latest in quality outdoor<br />
clothing, footwear and equipment from the best<br />
brands across New Zealand & the globe.<br />
www.bivouac.co.nz<br />
Shop for the widest range of Merrell footwear, apparel<br />
& accessories across hiking, trail running, sandals &<br />
casual styles. Free shipping for a limited time.<br />
www.merrell.co.nz<br />
The ultimate sandals<br />
with core concepts like<br />
durability, pull through<br />
strap design and the ability<br />
to re-sole.<br />
www.chacos.co.nz<br />
Full-service outfitter selling hiking<br />
and mountaineering gear and<br />
apparel, plus equipment rentals.<br />
Specialising in ski & snowboard<br />
touring equipment new & used;<br />
skis, boards, bindings, skins,<br />
probs, shovels,transceivers &<br />
avalanche packs.<br />
www.smallplanetsports.com<br />
Whether you’re climbing mountains, hiking in the hills<br />
or travelling the globe, Macpac gear is made to last<br />
and engineered to perform — proudly designed and<br />
tested in New Zealand since 1973.<br />
www.macpac.co.nz<br />
The ultimate in quality outdoor clothing<br />
and equipment for travel, hiking, camping,<br />
snowsports, and more. Guaranteed for life.<br />
www.marmotnz.co.nz<br />
Developing the pinnacle<br />
of innovative outerwear for<br />
50 years. Shop now and<br />
never stop exploring.<br />
www.thenorthface.co.nz<br />
Gear up in a wide selection of durable, multifunctional<br />
outdoor clothing & gear. Free Returns. Free Shipping.<br />
www.patagonia.co.nz<br />
Offering the widest variety,<br />
best tasting, and most<br />
nutrient rich hydration,<br />
energy, and recovery<br />
products on the market.<br />
www.guenergy.co.nz<br />
Fast nourishing freeze dried food for adventurers.<br />
www.backcountrycuisine.co.nz<br />
Stocking an extensive range<br />
of global outdoor adventure<br />
brands for your next big<br />
adventure. See them for travel,<br />
tramping, trekking, alpine and<br />
lifestyle clothing and gear.<br />
www.outfittersstore.nz<br />
Specialists in the sale of Outdoor Camping Equipment, RV,<br />
Tramping & Travel Gear. Camping Tents, <strong>Adventure</strong> Tents,<br />
Packs, Sleeping Bags and more.<br />
www.equipoutdoors.co.nz<br />
Jetboil builds super-dependable<br />
backpacking stoves and camping<br />
systems that pack light,<br />
set up quick, and achieve<br />
rapid boils in minutes.<br />
www.jetboilnz.co.nz<br />
Supplying tents and<br />
camping gear to Kiwis<br />
for over 30 years, Kiwi<br />
Camping are proud to<br />
be recognised as one of<br />
the most trusted outdoor<br />
brands in New Zealand.<br />
www.kiwicamping.co.nz<br />
MTOUTDOORS<br />
Outdoor equipment store specialising in ski retail, ski<br />
rental, ski touring and climbing.<br />
www.mtoutdoors.co.nz<br />
Making great gear for the outdoors,<br />
right here in New Zealand: high<br />
quality items that have been<br />
crafted with care to include all the<br />
features that are important, nothing<br />
superfluous and, above all, that<br />
are more durable than anything out<br />
there in the marketplace.<br />
www.cactusoutdoors.co.nz<br />
Scarpa designs and manufactures top<br />
quality ski boots, mountaineering, hunting,<br />
rock climbing, hiking, alpine running, and<br />
mountain footwear.<br />
www.scarpanz.co.nz<br />
Excellent quality Outdoor<br />
Gear at prices that can't<br />
be beaten. End of lines.<br />
Ex Demos. Samples. Last<br />
season. Bearpaw. Garneau.<br />
Ahnu. Superfeet.<br />
www.adventureoutlet.co.nz<br />
96//WHERE ACTIONS SPEAK LOUDER THAN WORDS/#<strong>220</strong> ADVENTUREMAGAZINE.CO.NZ 97
NEW<br />
CALEDONIA<br />
Not just a summer destination<br />
With its white sand beaches and sparkling blue<br />
lagoon, it is easy to think of New Caledonia as a<br />
summer destination. But, thanks to its semi-tropical<br />
climate, it is perfect to visit year-round and a closeto-home<br />
spot to escape the winter chill. Located just<br />
less than three hours from Auckland, in the South<br />
Pacific, New Caledonia’s average winter temperatures<br />
sit between 20-23°C. The cooler temperatures in the<br />
winter months are in fact ideal for experiencing the<br />
litany of adventurous experiences on offer in New<br />
Caledonia. Here are four ideas for people looking to<br />
escape the winter chill and discover New Caledonia:<br />
Notchup P2018144 - Crédit photo : Getty Images, © Pauline Massé / NCTPS, World<strong>Adventure</strong>Divers.com / NCTPS<br />
#NewCalPulse<br />
NEWCALEDONIA.TRAVEL<br />
Above: Blue River Park - © Terres de Lumière / NCTPS<br />
Biking<br />
You might also be surprised to learn that New Caledonia offers a range of biking<br />
trails, and the sport is booming amongst locals. There are many options to get out<br />
on two wheels, both just outside Noumea and further afield. Outside Noumea, Les<br />
Boucles de Tina features 20 trails, some of which have been outfitted with wooden<br />
obstacles, as well as a bike park and a pumptrack to challenge even the most<br />
seasoned bikers.<br />
Another option is Blue River Provincial Park. Not only does it offer trails for all<br />
levels, its bright red soil is a striking change from the lagoons and beaches New<br />
Caledonia is known for.<br />
On the West Coast, experienced bikers will love the challenge of the Grande Boucle<br />
trail, which sits within the Tango Plateau in Koné. The trail is nearly 40 kilometres<br />
long, about 510 metres in altitude and climbs more than 1,600 metres!<br />
For a more family-friendly option, Deva Domain, which is just outside of Bourail,<br />
offers a range of scenic biking trails.<br />
ADVENTUREMAGAZINE.CO.NZ 99
Above: Exclusiv Golf Deva - © M. Dosdane / NCTPS<br />
Hiking<br />
As learnt in the last issue, New Caledonia is a<br />
surprising hiking hotspot, with many options for all<br />
timeframes and experiences. For those that love<br />
hiking, but only have time for a daytrip, head to<br />
Fayard Park in Dumbea. A 30-minute drive from<br />
Noumea, it is home to the ‘Trail Of The Old Dam’,<br />
which follows the Dumbea River and offers views of<br />
natural rock cavities along the way. Labelled an easy<br />
hike, it is a round trip and takes just over four hours to<br />
complete.<br />
If staying in Bourail, on the West Coast, the Three-<br />
Bay Trail is a must-hike. It follows the coastline from<br />
La Roche Percée (a landmark of the region), to Turtle<br />
Bay and onto Lovers’ Bay, and has striking views<br />
of the UNESCO World Heritage-listed lagoon and a<br />
range of unique flora. The Three-Bay Trail is an easy<br />
round-trip hike, taking approximately one and a half<br />
hours to complete.<br />
For travellers staying a week or longer, it would be<br />
remiss not to experience one of New Caledonia’s<br />
long-distance trails. The GR1 Nord trail passes from<br />
Ponérihouen to Touho, and takes approximately four<br />
days to complete, while the GR1 Sud trail winds from<br />
Prony to Dumbea and takes about seven days to<br />
complete. Both trails are recommended for seasoned<br />
hikers.<br />
Golfing<br />
For those who love to get out on the green, New Caledonia is home<br />
to four golf courses and a driving range. Nearby to Noumea, Garden<br />
Golf de Dumbea features one of the longest and most complicated<br />
par-5 holes in the Pacific, alongside striking mountain views. Also<br />
nearby to Noumea, Golf de Tina overlooks the world’s largest lagoon<br />
and uses natural geography – it is quite a hilly course – to challenge<br />
players. And the Pacific Golf driving range allows players to practice<br />
their swing in the heart of the city.<br />
North of Noumea, on the West Coast, there’s Golf de la Ouenghi at<br />
Boulouparis. Set between New Caledonia’s central mountain chain<br />
and the Ouenghi River, it sits at the gateway to New Caledonia’s<br />
outback.<br />
Further North, there’s Exclusiv Golf Deva, part of the luxurious<br />
Sheraton Deva New Caledonia Spa & Golf Resort. Designed by<br />
Cynthia Dye, it is the only Dye Designs course in the Pacific. It<br />
features a driving range plus a 6,677 metre-long, 72 par course, and<br />
has an onsite shop, equipment for hire and sessions available with<br />
golf-pros.<br />
Diving<br />
Another activity perfect for the cooler months is diving. New<br />
Caledonia’s clear waters are home to spectacular coral reefs and<br />
a myriad of marine life with options for beginners, as well as more<br />
experienced divers.<br />
One of New Caledonia’s most picturesque dive spots is the<br />
Isle of Pines. Located just an hours’ flight from Noumea, it has<br />
an incredible diversity of marine life, including sea snakes and<br />
loggerhead turtles. There are numerous dive locations in the Isle<br />
of Pines, and divers of all experience levels will enjoy changing<br />
underwater scenery including corridors, passages and seagrottos.<br />
For more advanced divers, one stand-out grotto to explore<br />
is the ‘Grotte de la Troisième’, which is accessible via a narrow<br />
underwater corridor and features dramatic rock formations.<br />
For anyone concerned about travelling with diving gear, there are<br />
several professional diving centres across New Caledonia that<br />
offer access to quality equipment and run great guided dives.<br />
For more information on hiking, golfing, biking and diving in<br />
New Caledonia, as well as equipment hire and more, visit<br />
newcaledonia.travel.<br />
Above: Dumbea - © Terres de lumière / NCTPS<br />
Right: Scuba Diving - © Darren Jew / NCTPS
VANUATU<br />
Dive into a different world<br />
Reef crayfish on a night dive at Hideaway Island<br />
Home to stunning, healthy reefs, fascinating<br />
wrecks and a wealth of ecologically diverse<br />
marine life, Vanuatu’s teeming waters are the<br />
perfect destination for scuba diving.<br />
vanuatu.travel<br />
While snorkelling can offer a glimpse into the<br />
world below Vanuatu’s gentle waves, scuba diving<br />
immerses you in it. Outstanding locations for<br />
diving can be found off Santo, Efate and Tanna,<br />
with tours suitable for every level from novice<br />
through to expert. From colourful reefs alive with<br />
darting fish and gentle sea turtles to underwater<br />
caves and forgotten shipwrecks, these places are<br />
just begging to be explored. Discover life under<br />
the sea with Vanuatu’s collection of exceptional<br />
dive sites, renowned the world over amongst<br />
those in the know.<br />
Diving the President Coolidge, Santo<br />
ADVENTUREMAGAZINE.CO.NZ 103
Tranquility Island Reef Dive<br />
Banner fish and butterfly fish at Twin Bommies, Efate<br />
Diving Efate Hideaway Island Bonzer Wreck<br />
SS President Coolidge, Santo<br />
Big Blue Cathedral Cavern, Efate<br />
Million Dollar Point, Santo<br />
Located off the southern end of Santo,<br />
just 6 kilometres from Luganville, is<br />
Million Dollar Point. After World War II,<br />
this was a dumping site for thousands<br />
of tonnes of US Navy equipment, said<br />
to collectively be worth a million dollars.<br />
Trucks, forklifts and bulldozers are all<br />
slowly being covered by the corals. Pacific<br />
Dive can provide you with equipment hire<br />
and all the information you need to dive<br />
both Million Dollar Point and the nearby<br />
shipwreck of SS President Coolidge.<br />
SS President Coolidge, Santo<br />
The wreck of the SS President Coolidge is<br />
one of the world’s most talked-about dive<br />
sites. The Coolidge is a former US Naval<br />
vessel sunk by mines in 1942. With the<br />
hull almost completely intact, divers often<br />
spend multiple days at this site traversing<br />
the plethora of corridors, decks, guns and<br />
discarded relics that litter this 200-metre<br />
long troop carrier. Don’t miss 'The Lady'<br />
(a beautiful statue of a woman riding a<br />
unicorn) which can be found in the main<br />
dining room, the highlight of the dive for<br />
many visitors.<br />
Cindy’s Reef, Santo<br />
A dive not to be missed, there is a huge<br />
variety of corals to be found here, from<br />
staghorn corals to large plate corals and<br />
even ‘potato head’ coral, which has only<br />
been identified in Vanuatu. A relatively<br />
simple dive that’s great for beginners,<br />
Cindy’s Reef is also home to an<br />
abundance of marine life, with a myriad of<br />
tropical fish as well as turtles and sharks.<br />
Tutuba Point, Santo<br />
This reef is found off the northern end of<br />
Tutuba Island, just a short boat ride from<br />
Santo. Depth starts around 6 metres and<br />
descends the wall to a maximum of 30<br />
metres, with visibility at this site often<br />
outstanding. As well as spotting an array<br />
of crayfish, divers at Tutuba Point also<br />
have the opportunity to explore plenty of<br />
underwater caves and chasms. Both Aore<br />
<strong>Adventure</strong> Sports and Santo Island Dive<br />
and Fishing provide regular dive trips to<br />
the sites off Tutuba Island, including both<br />
Tutuba Point and Cindy’s Reef.<br />
Blue Hole One + Blue Hole Two, Tanna<br />
The volcanic island of Tanna offers a<br />
dramatic underwater landscape with blue<br />
water caves, swim-throughs and reef<br />
walls. Opened in 2015, Volcano Island<br />
Divers provides access to the dive sites<br />
located off the island. Blue Hole One<br />
consists of four connected sinkholes.<br />
Access between them and (and to the<br />
outer reef) is via swim-throughs and<br />
tunnels, providing an exhilarating dive.<br />
If you’ve got time, Blue Hole Two is also<br />
worth a visit. At low tide, this dive site<br />
is accessible from shore with another<br />
array of interconnected tunnels as well as<br />
intricate caverns and grottos to explore.<br />
Throughout your dives in Tanna, keep<br />
your eyes peeled for turtles, moray eels,<br />
reef sharks, blue-spotted ray and even the<br />
elusive dugong.<br />
Tasman, Efate<br />
Shipwrecks are one thing, but how about<br />
the opportunity to dive a plane wreck?<br />
The Tasman offers just that. This is a deep<br />
dive, down to 40 metres, and visibility is<br />
often not the greatest, so the Tasman is<br />
best tackled by experienced divers. For<br />
those willing to take it on, the wreckage<br />
of the ill-fated Qantas S26 Sandringham<br />
Flying Boat (which hit the reef on takeoff<br />
in 1951) is mostly intact, and divers can<br />
climb through the cockpit, making this dive<br />
one for the bucket list.<br />
Hideaway Island, Efate<br />
Hideaway Island is a marine sanctuary in<br />
Mele Bay, just 30 minutes from Port Vila.<br />
With a certified PADI dive resort situated<br />
on the island, this is definitely a beginnerfriendly<br />
dive, with training courses also<br />
available through Hideaway Island Dive.<br />
Calm waters provide crystal clear visibility<br />
and a great variety of brightly coloured<br />
corals are on show here surrounded by<br />
prolific marine life.<br />
Ollies Lolly, Efate<br />
Not far from Hideaway Island and just<br />
beyond Blacksands Reef is Ollies Lolly.<br />
This large reef is only nine metres down<br />
and houses an abundance of soft corals<br />
as well as huge red anemone with playful<br />
clownfish darting in and out of them.<br />
This dive boasts excellent clarity, and its<br />
shallow depth and vivid colours make<br />
Ollies Lolly a paradise for photographers.<br />
Twin Bommies, Efate<br />
This popular dive site about 15 minutes<br />
from downtown Port Vila consists of two<br />
large coral ‘bombora’ as well as a steep<br />
wall peppered with brightly coloured<br />
coral formations. There’s a huge variety<br />
of fish here to keep you company as<br />
you explore, including butterflyfish,<br />
lionfish, leaf scorpionfish and colourful<br />
nudibranchs. Dive trips to both Twin<br />
Bombies and the Tasman seaplane wreck,<br />
as well as many of the other dive sites off<br />
Efate, can be arranged through Big Blue.<br />
MV Semle Federsen, Efate<br />
This cargo trading vessel was sunk off the<br />
Pango Coast and now forms an artificial<br />
reef located not far from Port Vila. This is<br />
another deep dive at between 40 and 60<br />
metres but offers spectacular visibility the<br />
whole way. If getting a spectacular view<br />
of the whole ship as you descend isn’t<br />
exciting enough, making your way through<br />
the cabins and stern of the wreck certainly<br />
will be.<br />
The Cathedral, Efate<br />
Located just off the Pango Peninsula, to<br />
the south of Port Vila, The Cathedral reef<br />
is a must for avid divers while in Vanuatu.<br />
This dive site offers a vast cavern filled<br />
with shafts of light, from which it gets<br />
its name, and the effects created are<br />
truly fascinating. As well as marvelling<br />
at the optical effects, divers also get the<br />
opportunity to explore a ‘chimney’, which<br />
extends up to a large pool on the surface<br />
inside the reef.<br />
Mele Reef, Efate<br />
Off the coast of Mele Bay sits a sizeable<br />
reef that offers divers a vast range of<br />
corals and marine life to explore. The<br />
main reef rises to around 6 metres below<br />
the surface and a dive here is ideal for<br />
beginners. The bay that surrounds Mele<br />
Reef is also home to two major wrecks,<br />
both worth exploring while in Vanuatu,<br />
the MV Konanda and the Star of Russia,<br />
with Nautilus Watersports coordinating<br />
dive trips to both. The MV Konanda was<br />
purposely sunk, creating a safe diving<br />
experience that’s ideal for those new to<br />
wreck diving. Exploring the cabins and<br />
holes and bridge areas makes for a fun<br />
dive. For the more experienced wreck<br />
divers, the 90-metre long sailing ship Star<br />
of Russia sits 30-metres down in Mele<br />
Bay. This grand vessel was crafted by the<br />
same builders as the Titanic and it is now<br />
home to schools of tropical fish.<br />
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