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Adventure 222

Camping / tramping issue of Adventure Magazine

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Feeling insignificant in this wild place as we arrive into Doughboy Bay after a long and physical 65km day.<br />

Clockwise from Top left 1. Camped out in ‘Easy Harbour’ waiting out some big storms before our attempt on the Southern<br />

Cape of Stewart Island. 2. Fresh fish, staple diet on Stewart Island. 3. Yankee Hut at the mouth of the Yankee River, a place<br />

we were stuck for 2 days waiting for the wild westerly to subside. 4. The salt water was a bit different for the whitewater<br />

paddlers ripping their hands to shreds. 5. Taking in the wildlife, Lords River - Stewart Island.<br />

8 Days earlier the ferry docked in Oban, the capital<br />

– Or really only town on the island. <strong>Adventure</strong> was<br />

waiting & it was time to go. The Half-Moon Bay<br />

beach, in the centre of town, became a sprawling<br />

mess of equipment, Radix food and kayak kit as the<br />

team readied itself to embark on a 12-day journey<br />

to attempt a circumnavigation of Stewart Island.<br />

Barely 12 hrs later, as the sun began to peak over<br />

the horizon from the East, 4 kayaks launched and<br />

headed West. We departed unsure of when we<br />

would be back.<br />

Heading West along the edge of Foveaux Strait<br />

with Bluff hill silhouetted in the dawn sun in the<br />

distance. Our progress was fast, and within minutes<br />

all signs of civilisation were left behind, and we were<br />

off. Rounding out of the bay the ocean began to<br />

play ball, the currents of the Foveaux Strait quickly<br />

dragging us out towards the North Cape and onto<br />

the West Coast. But it was daunting, with a huge<br />

amount of kayaking experience all on rivers we<br />

weren’t sure what we would find out here – in the<br />

ocean.<br />

As the days progressed is became obvious our<br />

biggest challenge was time. The roaring Westerly<br />

had picked up and our progress was slowed<br />

almost to a standstill. We hoped for great weather<br />

but planned for the worst. It was mid-winter after<br />

all. Day 1, 2, 3 & 4 saw slow progress along the<br />

Northern Coast, constantly pushed back by the<br />

gusting Westerlies. Eventually seeking shelter at the<br />

aptly named Christmas Village Hut to wait out the<br />

storm, recalculate our timeframe and continuously<br />

count our food. And waiting was easy on Stewart<br />

Island, the endless hunters and DOC huts littered<br />

throughout the conservation area made for a quick<br />

respite from the wintery weather throughout the<br />

adventure.<br />

Finally, the waves and wind subsided, and we went<br />

for it – Rounding the North West Cape and heading<br />

South, a massive day as we passed by beautiful<br />

remote Stewart Island. Pre-made Radix meals<br />

safely tucked into our lifejackets as we pushed<br />

ahead to the DOC hut in Doughboy Bay – A safe<br />

harbour for the night. This Coastline is relentless. It’s<br />

rugged and wild. Constantly bashed by the roaring<br />

40’s combined with giant waves reaching their first<br />

landmass since being drummed up in Antarctica.<br />

26//WHERE ACTIONS SPEAK LOUDER THAN WORDS/#<strong>222</strong> ADVENTUREMAGAZINE.CO.NZ 27

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