Nevada RNformation - March 2011

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Page 10 • Nevada RNformation March, April, May 2021 NNA Environmental Health Committee Sustainable Fashion: moving from disposable fashion consumption to ecological conservation and ethical labor practices The fashion industry has one of the highest environmental impacts of a commercial business on the planet. The production of clothing results in the use of agricultural fertilizers, pesticides, and fresh water sources to grow the crops for fibers, along with toxic chemicals used in dyeing and fabric preparation. Did you know that Americans toss ~14 million tons of clothing each year, or an astounding 80 pounds per person (Miller, 2016; Council for Textile Recycling)? This fabric waste and the eventual disposal of clothing through incineration or landfill deposits are hazardous to the environment. Incineration of clothing releases airborne pollution from the chemical dyes or fibers, and degrading cloth in a landfill releases methane gas and chemicals into the water shed. Therefore, efforts are needed to reduce environmental contamination from the fashion industry. Keys to reducing these adverse impacts include (a) limiting the amount of clothing produced to what is actually needed by the population, (b) reusing or recycling existing clothing and fabrics, (c) sustaining the life of a garment, and (d) manufacturing garments from eco-friendly fiber sources. All these actions can lower the carbon footprint from the industry. To bring these actions to fruition, it is first important to understand the barriers faced to making a change to a more sustainable clothing industry. Temporal Aspects of Fashion Historically, seasonal changes in fashion were driven by top designers and released to the industry through the infamous “runway’ fashion shows. These new “high end” style releases were made far ahead of time and the subsequent copycats needed months to manufacture cheaper replicas and get them on the racks in retail stores. “Slow fashion” reflected the significant time lag that occurred. Fashion was seasonal and challenged the consumer with spending more each year to stay in style. Nowadays, the speed of changes in fashion has accelerated across the whole industry – from highend to inexpensive in-style clothing. “Fast fashion” is manufacturing replicas of high-end style clothes that are cheaply produced and cheaply priced. These clothes are sourced through global production chains then sold through store chains to consumers. The result is excessive fabric waste that causes global toxic pollution. Ethics of Labor Practices in Fashion Manufacturing Every piece of clothing requires someone to sew it, even putting in a zipper. There are no automated machines that make garments. So, basically all Live in Las Vegas! We offer outstanding career opportunities for qualified people who share our commitment to providing expert healthcare and excellent customer service. Our employees enjoy opportunities for professional development and career advancement, as well as a competitive compensation and benefits package. We offer: * Growth Opportunities * Vacation, Sick, Holiday Pay * Generous 401k * Medical/Dental/Vision * Education Reimbursement EOE We are currently recruiting full-time and per diem Registered Nurses and other Clinical Support Come Join the Family! Apply online. Recruiter: (702) 657-5580 www.northvistahospital.com garments are handmade or sewn on machines by factory workers. Despite the value of the skilled seamstress for the industry, they are often poorly compensated. For example, a $4 t-shirt is offered at a retail store. How much is the worker being paid that sewed it together? Consider the pay out to the chain of manufacturing from the farmer who grows the crop, the production of the fiber into cloth, the fashion designer, the seamstress who makes the garment, the transportation crew, and finally the salesperson. Do the math, it’s not much profit to go around. Developing countries aim to become a part of the world's “fast fashion” apparel market despite poor working conditions and low pay to their workers. Countries such as China, Honduras, Bangladesh, Sri Lanka, and Indonesia export large amounts of clothing into the United States every year. Look at the tags on your garments for their origin. The incentive to the American consumer is to buy more due to the low price. In honest, more clothing is bought by Americans than what is really needed. Despite the publicity decades ago, many popular fashion brands are still using sweatshops to manufacture and sew their clothing (see Resources for a list). In 2021, child labor and modern slavery still occurs in clothing factories. Sweatshops are known to have poor working conditions, unfair wages, unreasonable hours, child labor, and a lack of benefits for the workers. To protect these workers, clothing companies can become Fair Trade USA Apparel and Home Goods Factory certified. This nonprofit organization offers the trusted Fair Trade Certified seal on a product, which signifies that it was made according to rigorous standards that promote sustainable livelihoods and safe working conditions, protection of the environment, and strong, transparent supply chains. Nonetheless, until the consumption of “fast fashion” declines, there is no incentive for change. Consumers drive fashion production; therefore, consumers can influence the transformation to sustainable fashion trends. The Principals of Sustainable Fashion A transformation of the fashion industry is now underway because of increased ecological awareness and stewardship of the environment by the public. Consumers and companies alike want industries that respect human living conditions, protect biological life and the environment, support cultural diversity, and appropriately use scarce global resources. The principles of 'green' or 'eco fashion’ consider what garments are made of and how long the garment is used. This fashion shift strives for garments that are seasonless and aesthetic in style and can last a long time. Therefore, more ”slow fashion” is making a comeback in a new way. The foundational concepts for sustainable fashion are to reuse, reform or reprocess fibers from existing garments or leftover fabrics. • Recycled or reclaimed fibers are recovered from either pre- or post-consumer sources. Pre-consumer sources are unworn and unused textile wastes from different stages of manufacturing. For example, bundles of a certain fabric are ordered for a dress but cutting the pattern leaves scrapes of leftover fabric unused. Instead of throwing it out, it can be reprocessed. Post-consumer textiles are any garment that has been worn and then donated to charities to sell as bulk fabric or returned to companies for recycling. An example is a jacket returned to the outdoor clothing company Patagonia. • “Upcycling” in fashion is the process of reusing these unwanted and discarded materials that are made into new materials or products without compromising the value and the quality of the used material. • “Closed-loop technology” is where a product is recycled back into almost the same product, such as an outdoor jacket’s fibers reprocessed into a new outdoor jacket of similar style. Technology exists to chemically reprocess polyester into its core components and then spin it back into polyester thread to make new garments. In addition, plastic bottles can now be recycled into synthetic polyester fiber used for clothing. Extending the lifespan of garments is also foundational to sustainable fashion. Donations of clothing to thrift shops allow consumers to re-wear a garment. Yet, about 70% of what is donated never makes it to the rack. Instead, it is sold as bulk fabric or made into rags and cleaning cloths. In addition, lengthening the lifespan can include re-waxing of outdoor jackets, replacing a zipper, or repairing expensive handbags. It’s not waste until it is wasted! COVID-19’s Impact on the Fashion Industry The onset of the pandemic literally shut down the fashion industry. Orders for garments by fashion chains were abruptly cancelled. Fashion shows were conducted virtually across the Web. The resulting economic impact of the pandemic forced consumers to rethink their purchases and thereby realize they did not need as much clothing as they use to buy. Designers and manufacturers together were forced to reevaluate the fashion culture and manufacturing processes of the industry. Therefore, the pandemic helped the industry rethink “slow fashion” with a transformation towards sustainability. Today, many people want to wear their clothing over time and have smaller collections that express their personality. Designers are moving towards green fashion and are using fibers such as hemp and bamboo, which are softer than cotton, retain dyes longer and are more durable for a garment’s lifetime. Additionally, consumers have the opportunity to support ethical practices within the fashion industry by being thoughtful and practical in their spending. Becoming a Sustainable Clothing Role-Model There are many ways you can improve the sustainability rating of your own wardrobe: 1. Rediscover your own personal style. Assess your wardrobe and keep what you like and need and donate the rest. Never throw fabrics out in the trash, instead repurpose, or recycle them. 2. Wear your clothes for a long time. Embrace and care for them. 3. When you need to, only invest in buying new “sustainable” clothes and fabrics. Think about where you buy from and the “Made in …” tag. 4. Research ahead of time and buy from fashion companies that are more thoughtful on fabric choices and support fair worker’s conditions. 5. Buy used clothing. Respectable charity thrift stores support their organization’s mission and clients in need, but they need your money and support. 6. Repair your clothing instead of throwing it away. Yes, you can sew up the holes and tears or take it to a seamstress. Zippers can be replaced. 7. Use old, non-donatable clothing as rags for household and car cleaning. 8. Wash clothes on Quick cycles and use cooler water settings to decrease your carbon footprint. References & Resources • Environmental impact of the textile and clothing industry: What consumers need to know https:// www.europarl.europa.eu/RegData/etudes/ BRIE/2019/633143/EPRS_BRI(2019)633143_ EN.pdf • Fair Trade Certification: https://www. fairtradecertified.org/ • 13 fashion brands that still use sweatshops in 2021. Written by Alex Assoune. https://www. panaprium.com/blogs/i/fashion-brands-that-stilluse-sweatshops • The Council for Textile Recycling: http://www. weardonaterecycle.org/ • Top 13 Sustainable Fashion Designers Making a Change in 2020: https://motif.org/news/topsustainable-fashion-designers/ • The World Counts: https://www. theworldcounts.com/challenges/people-andpoverty/slavery-and-sweatshops
March, April, May 2021 Nevada RNformation • Page 11 NNA Environmental Health Committee • Love Faustine: https://lovefaustine.com/ • Patagonia Recycling of Clothing: https://www.patagonia.com/recycling.html Authors Bernadette M. Longo, Ph.D., RN, APHN-BC, CNL, FAAN Chair, NNA’s Environmental Health Committee President-Elect, NNA District 1 Valerie Werner-Longo Founder and Creative Director, Love Faustine Garment Fibers & their Environmental Impacts Natural Cellulose Fibers Cotton: the most common worldwide fiber used for garments Bt Cotton: a genetically modified cotton plant resistant to pest infestations. Inserted with the Bt (Bacillus thuringiensis) gene. Organic Cotton: special farming is required to meet strict federal regulations Natural Colored Cotton: grows as shades of red, mauve, yellow, and orange. Soy fabrics: derived from the hulls of soybeans Bamboo fabrics: made from heavily pulped fast-growing bamboo grass Hemp fabrics: the fibers are more durable and stronger than cotton High water usage to grow cotton. Production of cotton uses large amounts of insecticides and synthetic fertilizers. Cotton fibers contain potent insecticide residues (wash before you wear). Cotton is usually bleached white from its natural beige color. In theory, Bt cotton did not require insecticide applications. However, problems in farming have occurred. Also, there is a high cost for GMO seeds. Grown without the use of genetic modification to the seeds, without use of fertilizers, pesticides, or other synthetic agricultural chemicals. It is already colored and does not require synthetic dyes during processing. Also, it will not fade. Soy-based fabrics are mostly biodegradable, so minimal impact on the environment and landfills. Pest resistant: does not need pesticides or agrochemicals. Often bleached white. Uses little water to grow and naturally pest resistant. Other cellulose fibers: Kombucha: a gel-like film from bacteria/yeast. Pineapple leaves: an alternative to leather. Piñatex® is a natural, sustainably sourced, cruelty free material. Coconut parts: leather-like fabrics Natural Protein Fibers Wool: known for warmth; consists of protein and lipids (lanolin); obtained mainly from sheep. Angora from rabbits. Alpaca fleece is also soft, smooth, warm, strong & durable. Cashmere & Mohair: soft and fine hairs of a goat's underbelly – rare goats from Asia. Silk: strong fiber and considered a prestigious fabric. Sheep are treated with injectable or dermal insecticides. Pesticides are used in wool cultivation. Toxic chemicals are often used to preserve wool. As demand increases, more of these goats are herded thus affecting land degradation. Mulberry trees are grown to act as homes for the silkworms. Does not require pesticides or fertilizers. MuSkin: 100 % vegetable layer alternative to animal leather. It comes from the Phellinus ellipsoideus, a big parasitic fungus that grows in the wild on trees in subtropical forests. Manufactured Fibers Polyester fabrics: made from fossil fuels PET Plastics: also known as polyethylene terephthalate Manmade cellulosics (MMCs): cellulose made from dissolved wood pulp of trees (e.g. rayon). Non-biodegradable. Laundry discharges micro-plastic fibers that release toxins and can end up in the water system, oceans and the food chain. PET plastic clothing comes from recycled plastics (usually bottles); keeps plastics out of landfills. Biodegradable Deadstock (leftover fabric from orders) can be used instead of thrown away in landfills.
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