No. 10 - Its Gran Canaria Magazine

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GET TO KNOW GRAN CANARIA I CONOCE GRAN CANARIA Nº 10
Triana, more than just a High Street
Calle Mayor de Triana
Teatro Pérez Galdós
Gabinete Literario
Calle Mayor de Triana
By Cayetano Sánchez
An essential route to take when visiting Las Palmas
de Gran Canaria is a wander along Calle de Triana,
which now, at Christmas time, is at its most sparkling
with its illuminations and stores overflowing
with eager shoppers. It has been the city's most
historic street in its own right since the end of the
15th century, and over the subsequent centuries it
has not lost the privilege of being considered Calle
Mayor (High Street). The street name is also the
name of the neighbourhood where it is situated, in
honour of the Triana district of Seville, as many of its
early settlers following the conquest of the island
hailed from the Andalusian capital. Shops, restaurants,
cafés, hotels, theatres, libraries... everything
can be found in this pedestrianised neighbourhood
that invites you to stroll around and lose yourself
in its beautiful architectural heritage.
A showcase of modernism
“Calle de Triana in the copious
vision of its continental splendour
wide, modern, rich and industrious
aorta of the capital...”.
These are the first stanzas, written at the beginning
of the 20th century, by Gran Canarian poet Tomás
Morales, one of the great Spanish modernist poets.
The author, celebrations for whom are currently
being held for the first centenary of his death, was
already referring at that time to the street’s fundamental
role in the city’s history.
From the end of the 19th century onwards, the
traders and the bourgeoisie who lived in the neighbourhood
began to refurbish their homes with designs
that were more in keeping with their privileged
economic and social status. At that time the
modernist design was the prevailing architectural
style, and for this reason they invested their fortunes
in buildings in featuring this aesthetic style.
Thanks to this renewing vision, the street and its
surroundings are a modern day Modernism museum;
in fact, it is considered one of the most important
Modernist locations in Spain.
It is well worth taking a stroll through Triana with
your eyes focused mainly on its façades in order to
fully enjoy its monumental splendour. Classified as
historical-artistic heritage, and thanks to its excellent
conservation, visitors are treated to the most
significant elements that characterise the style:
wrought iron balconies, stonework and ceramics,
doors and windows framed with carved stones,
and plaster floral decorations. The long-running
façades, with homogeneous aesthetics in many
different sections along the street, are an essential
stopping point, providing a real pleasure for the
senses.
Gabinete Literario
Modernist buildings are not only limited to the high
street; many more can be spotted in other streets
all around the neighbourhood. They are all of equal
architectural beauty: our best advice is to just wander
around and discover them.
Undoubtedly the most impressive example of this
architecture is the Gabinete Literario, the last of its
kind to be built in the capital of Gran Canaria in the
early 20th century. Due to both its beautiful modernist
façade and the surroundings in which it is
located, it is one of the most photographed sites
in the city.
The building’s interior is no less attractive; from
the superb main staircase that provides access
to the Salón Dorado, a monumental French-style
room that offers a rich blend of artistic elements.
Its ceiling is decorated with three large canvases
painted with mythological works depicting Apollo,
Orpheus and Thalia.
The Red Room is on the same floor, with its artistic
coffered ceiling, and the equally attractive Meifren
Room. Both are well worth a visit.
San Telmo Kiosk
As we continue our brief and selective look at modernism
in Triana, mention must go to the Kiosk located
in the Parque San Telmo. It is an architectural
jewel topped by a dome, covered with tiles and
decorated with columns and ceramic garlands, displaying
ornamental fruits. Beautiful stained glass
windows and leaded glass complete the beauty of
this space where it is still possible to enjoy its cafeteria
and restaurant service. It is a perfect place to
put your feet up and get your strength back before
continuing your stroll through Triana.
The commercial city
Neither the large department stores nor the shopping
centres have subdued the district as a commercial
area with its own character. The majority
of large shops, franchises and well-known brands
are still thriving in this area of the city, together
with specialised and more exclusive shops. Sitting
alongside them are bookshops, antique shops and
art galleries. Everything can be found in Triana.
The restaurant range is also very wide, catering for
all possible tastes and budgets: most of them have
terraces, dotted around its narrow streets, thanks
to which it is possible to enjoy drinks and a vibrant
urban life... It is worth noting once again that the
vast majority of the neighbourhood of Triana is pedestrianised;
tranquillity is assured.
Living culture
Most of the city’s historic theatres can be found
in the same area: Pérez Galdós, Cuyas, CICCA, SIT.
All of them run an ongoing events programme
packed with all kinds of cultural activities.
There are just so many things to see and enjoy in
this historic and artistic part of town that it is impossible
to list them in such a short article. This is
just a taster to give you an idea – so don't miss out!