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Issue No.26

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Bar Felix, Place Carnot, Carcassonne

In the Bastide on the other side of the River

Aude, I love Bar Felix in the main square,

Place Carnot. It was the first café we ever

sat in back in 1989 - in fact we had our

wedding party diner there! Sitting outside

under the plane trees with a glass of local

rosé, an amazing salade de chèvre chaud and

watching the market day shoppers is one of

life’s great pleasures. There's been an

amazing restoration programme of the

Bastide in recent years and it's looking as

good as I've ever seen it. Here's the life of

the real Carcassonne. Don't forget to pop

into the great Breithaupt bookshop while

you're there or wander up to the Canal du

Midi at the top of the town to watch the

barges pass through.

Toulouse features in your books – is this

another favourite places?

Toulouse - la Ville Rose - is one of my

favourite cities in the world. I think it has

absolutely everything. Incredible music,

Photo: Rue du Taur,

theatre, art galleries, the wonderful historic

centre, the mighty river and the bridges. I

love the rue du Taur, which I wrote about in

The Burning Chambers and previously in my

2009 Gothic novel, The Winter Ghosts. I like

the mix of grandeur and tiny little streets

that lead out from the Place du Capitole and,

of course, I love the story behind the places.

The rue du Taur gets its name from the

legend of Saint Saturnin being dragged by a

bull to his death along this road in 250 AD

when he refused to participate in a pagan

ceremony. The Basilica Saint-Sernin stands

at the end of the street, a beautiful memorial

in stone to his martyrdom.

If you look up as you walk, above the

modern day shop fronts, you’ll see evidence

of the old city walls. When I was writing The

Burning Chambers and walking in Toulouse,

it was surprisingly easy to imagine the city in

the 16th century – there are still so many

signs of its past.

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