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Issue No. 15

Discover the Drome, Nyons - the last Provencal frontier, Charente-Maritime, Burgundy, Paris gastronomy, Nice, secret Provence, recipes, a whole lot more. It's the next best thing to being in France...

Discover the Drome, Nyons - the last Provencal frontier, Charente-Maritime, Burgundy, Paris gastronomy, Nice, secret Provence, recipes, a whole lot more. It's the next best thing to being in France...

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So that’s what I would recreate: a living<br />

history of Antibes through the allegorical<br />

eyes of Bellevue. All summer long, Antibes<br />

revealed herself to me on two levels, past<br />

and present. Plaques, monuments and<br />

street signs – timeworn tributes that had<br />

faded into everyday life over the years we’d<br />

been coming here – shared their stories.<br />

And there, mounted above a lighting shop<br />

three blocks up Avenue Foch, the trunk<br />

road I’d taken more than a hundred times,<br />

was an unassuming marble plaque: Here<br />

lived Dr. Elie Victor Amedee Lévy, Captain;<br />

arrested May 4, 1942; died in deportation to<br />

Auschwitz; hero and martyr of the<br />

Résistance; died for France.<br />

That was the story I wanted to read in<br />

English, right there on l’Ilette peninsula. A<br />

fat drop of sweat ran down my calf and<br />

deposited itself on my ankle. Skimming<br />

was the only way. I flipped to the book’s<br />

midsection and hunched over its yellowed<br />

pages. A breeze kicked up. Instant airconditioning.<br />

I was doing the right thing.<br />

Some would say I’d been behaving oddly<br />

all summer. I biked around town with one<br />

eye on the road and the other scouring<br />

second-floor facades of buildings where<br />

plaques might appear. Friends began<br />

calling me a history-buff. Really? History<br />

was never, ever my thing. It always seemed<br />

a jumble of useless dates and wars –<br />

except, of course, when my grandmother<br />

told vibrant stories about the wagon train<br />

bringing my ancestors from Pennsylvania<br />

to Iowa.<br />

History only mattered to me when there<br />

was a story behind it. History was<br />

interesting only when it was alive.<br />

The story endured.<br />

As I continued to read on l’Ilette peninsula,<br />

I realized I’d forgotten the story’s details –<br />

even important ones. I’d forgotten, for<br />

instance, how Churchill’s surprise<br />

encounter with Lévy had begun.<br />

On that dark night in April 1942, while they<br />

huddled in the darkness of their<br />

clandestine work, Lévy launched a<br />

question to Churchill – before even<br />

bothering to introduce the diplomat<br />

loitering alongside them.<br />

Where, the doctor wondered, were the<br />

faked baptismal certificates for his two<br />

daughters? Churchill had promised these<br />

papers so that Lévy, a Jew, could avoid<br />

having his house – purchased in his<br />

daughters’ names – confiscated by the<br />

Germans.<br />

My cheeks were burning. The water bottle<br />

was almost dry. I’d continue reading<br />

elsewhere. But before leaving that eventful<br />

site, I lingered before the copper-green<br />

plaque. It was written in English and<br />

French, but as with so many translations,<br />

the two halves offered different<br />

information.

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