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Spring 2022

Discover Paris in the spring, Caen in Normandy and its marvellous markets plus Yvoire, a picturesque village on the edge of Lake Geneva in Haute-Savoie. Explore Saint-Omer, a historic city in the far north that's full of secrets and treasures, and Evian, where Frankenstein's monster stayed! Head with us to Metz in Lorraine to find out about its incredible past, La Couvertoirade, one of the prettiest villages in France, and the UNESCO heritage of Avignon. Guides, gorgeous photos, what's new in France, the best tours and delicious recipes from the legendary Le Nôtre bakery in Paris - and more.

Discover Paris in the spring, Caen in Normandy and its marvellous markets plus Yvoire, a picturesque village on the edge of Lake Geneva in Haute-Savoie. Explore Saint-Omer, a historic city in the far north that's full of secrets and treasures, and Evian, where Frankenstein's monster stayed! Head with us to Metz in Lorraine to find out about its incredible past, La Couvertoirade, one of the prettiest villages in France, and the UNESCO heritage of Avignon. Guides, gorgeous photos, what's new in France, the best tours and delicious recipes from the legendary Le Nôtre bakery in Paris - and more.

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Early on a sunny Friday morning, I explored

the market which spills out of Place Saint-

Sauveur the oldest square in the city and into

the roads around. It’s probably the oldest

market in Caen too. Though the date for when

it started isn’t known, the market is mentioned

in documents from the time of Richard II,

William the conqueror’s grandfather.

About 250 traders are here, selling everything

foodie and almost everything else. Local

honey, butter, cider, calvados (apple brandy),

garlic and even ginger, saffron and yuzus

grown less than an hour from the city.

Of course, Norman cheeses are there in

abundance - Camembert, affectionately

known as God’s feet by the locals, Pont-

L’Evêque, Livarot and Neufchâtel. I stopped in

my tracks at the sight of chocolate bread and

a delicious spread of tarts and cakes. “Would

you like to try” the stall holder asked me,

smiling as I sighed with happiness – it tastes

divine. An elderly lady nodded approvingly

and told me that she never buys any food at a

supermarket, only this market and the Sunday

morning ‘big one.’

In the square, shoppers pulling trolleys and

carrying baskets and bags are watched over

by a statue of a no-doubt approving Louis XIV

dressed as a Roman Emperor. A voracious

gourmand, he was said to eat up to 300

oysters in a single sitting. With that in mind I

followed my nose to the fish market where the

freshest of scallops, which are emblematic of

Caen, sea snails, bulots, fish and all manner of

shellfish were arrayed. A group of infants on

a school trip to learn about food passed me

18 | The Good Life France

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