Adventure Magazine

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Left: Ben Grindle climbs his way up as cloud fills the lower valley.
Above: Jimmy Finlayson enjoys a cool dip in a natural pool after descending to the river valley.
We experienced the same high the following day, though inadvertently. Ben
and I headed for what we thought was the South Ridge of Milne (grade
18). But Milne is incorrectly labelled on the NZ Topo Maps app, which we
were using to navigate, so we ended up climbing the south ridge of point
2135–an easy and worthwhile scramble with two summits, and maybe a
few moves of grade 14.
We faced one final uncertainty on our last morning: a first descent from
Camp Derek down to the Tutoko River. It started with abseils down slabs,
which converged on water-worn channels and steep waterfalls. Avoiding
these, we traversed and scrambled down verdant slopes to the north. When
they, too, became too steep, we abseiled off shrubs and, at one point, even
a flax bush.
Eventually we had no option but to join the flow of water, where the downclimbing
took on more of a canyoning aspect. As if to reward us, a pool of
the clearest turquoise greeted us near the bottom, where a quick dip in the
afternoon sunshine was obligatory. From there, with the biggest dangers
finally behind us, we had a leisurely stroll alongside the Tutoko River to the
Milford Road.
So, what did I learn? I learned that it's easy to make mistakes, despite
years of experience and, frankly, knowing better. I should have had my first
aid kit close to hand. I should have anchored myself to the wall—which I
did, but didn't do well—to avoid being catapulted across it when catching
Ben's fall. I should have planned for the unexpected.
The question of whether it’s worth it always hangs over any adventure to
the remote parts of the Darrans. The approaches are long and challenging,
the weather often volatile, and the climbing challenging not just in difficulty,
but also in how safe it may or may not be. Such adventures are not for
everyone.
Add in the uncertainty of first-ascent hunting, and the question of whether
it’s worth it only amplifies. But the potential rewards are also amplified.
And if you don’t go, you'll never know.
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