The following day we were up early and paddled out to Nuulopa Island in the half-light to watch the flying foxes return to roost on this tiny, uninhabited tooth of an island that had once been part of a volcano rim. The bats forage overnight on the plentiful papaya and other tropical fruits of the main islands before returning to crowded roosting trees which are overhanging the sea. Here they fight and squabble noisily for a branch from which to hang and sleep the day away. Our attention was divided between the bats and the spectacular orange sunrise that sparkled off the water around Manono. That afternoon we snorkelled through a colony of giant clams in Le Faga Bay. These fluorescent molluscs are almost a metre long and located in a sheltered area less than 100 metres from shore. With a water temperature more like that of a tepid bath, we inevitably left the water only once we were too wrinkled as we were never going to be too cold. By day 5, we had had several adventures outside the reef, including visiting Nuusafee Island. Landing there involved negotiating the reef entrance. A few of our group in their kayaks decided to surf small reefs on the way. The sense of being alone in paradise was intense as we swam in the lagoon and picnicked on the white sand beach. For most of us, the highlight of the trip was Namua Island. To get there, we had taken an unusual route, paddling from the beachside resort of Lalomanu around the outside of Nuutele Island. We had to be careful as there was a metre-high swell running with a significant chop created from the backwash off the island. You never know what you might see in this tranquil, unspoilt water; out of the blue (literally), someone spotted a whale spout a few hundred metres away, and as we watched it, from a different direction a fine blubbery-smelling mist drifted over us from another whale that had breached unnoticed right beside us. September and October are the peak months when humpback whales (tafolā) visit Samoa, but you can often see them all year round. The only habitation on Namua is a small collection of Beach Fales on the sandy beach in a wilderness paradise. The island rears up behind the coast, providing a lofty lookout for whales and dolphins in the bay and is a convenient base for exploring the nearby islands. From here, we kayaked across to Fanuatapu Island, where we had recently found and cleared a track to the small lighthouse. From the lighthouse, we watched frigate birds in aerial dog fights with other tropical birds. The frigate birds have no protective oil in their feathers and so get most of their food by stealing it on the wing off other species. Lesa, the 13-year-old daughter of the proprietor of the Namua resort, suggested we attempt a walk around the outside of the island. "It is easy enough at low tide if the sea is moderate." Then she added, "Don't tell my dad, but we got swept off the rocks one day." That was just the incentive we needed, and we spent the next hour clambering around. Fortunately, it was a relatively calm sea so we could enjoy the island’s wild side. We were admiring the walking fish on the rocks, the boobies circling overhead to the backdrop of the crashing surf. Towards the end of our trip, we paddled to Nuutele Island. Entering the deep water outside the reef entrance, we were surprised by a giant turtle just resting on the surface. Too big to be worried by our presence, he looked at us lazily before slowly swimming away. An escort of swooping gannets and petrels accompanied us as we approached the island. Nuutele island was once home to a leper colony, and it seemed that sea conditions might be calm enough for us to land. A narrow channel had been blasted through an inner reef, and we took turns running the gauntlet to crash onto the shore of rounded coral boulders in a very wet landing. The colony's ruins were mute testimony to how brutal life before penicillin was. The foundations were littered with coconut shells tossed there by big swells, and the only water supply was a trickle down a rock face. Under a Samoan setting sun, we were being fanned by the warm tropical breeze as we had each day of the trip. We finished back at our cottage with a meal of seared premium masimasi tuna steaks and a local ribeye steak with green papaya salad. And inevitably, we planned the next trip over one too many Vailima beers and glasses of fine New Zealand wine. Outdoor Samoa have safely run bike and kayak tours in Samoa for 14 years. With a fleet of over 100 bikes and 20 modern sea kayaks they provide 9-day all inclusive tours from $1,750 NZD. Contact Ross and Frances at: office@outdoor.co.nz to organise a custom tour or join a group. Outdoorsamoa.com 78//WHERE ACTIONS SPEAK LOUDER THAN WORDS/#233
It’s been worth the wait. We look forward to seeing you soon. Re-discover how beautiful Samoa truly is. Explore untouched landscapes and dive in warm crystal clear waters packed with tropical fish. Self drive, bike or stroll through the wonders that make this island life one to cherish just like the locals do.
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