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Dronfield Eye Issue 213 September 2023

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dronfield EYE<br />

Splendour on our doorstep<br />

Sometimes we overlook the historic houses<br />

close to where we live and work. Hardwick Hall,<br />

just over the hills from <strong>Dronfield</strong> near Junction<br />

29 of the M1, is one such place; an Elizabethan<br />

manor with the story behind it of a remarkable<br />

woman who rose to wealth and power, second<br />

only to Queen Elizabeth I. Deborah Wain<br />

pays it a visit for the first time<br />

A<br />

FTER a drive up<br />

country lanes to<br />

Hardwick Hall, the first<br />

glimpse of the property<br />

takes your breath away.<br />

Get closer still to the<br />

house, and against the sky<br />

can be seen the letters<br />

‘ES’ and a coronet carved<br />

into its six turrets.<br />

This is a stately home<br />

that makes a statement<br />

on behalf of the<br />

ambitious woman who<br />

built it and whose initials<br />

it bears; today best<br />

known as Bess of<br />

Hardwick.<br />

Bess was born Elizabeth<br />

Hardwick to Derbyshire landowners in Ault<br />

Hucknall about 1527. By today’s standards, Bess had<br />

already been married and widowed while still in childhood, and<br />

was then cast into noble circles in London as a lady in waiting.<br />

She married William Cavendish, Treasurer of the King’s Chamber,<br />

in 1547, going on to have six<br />

children who survived into<br />

adulthood. The couple set up<br />

their family home at Chatsworth,<br />

the first of a number of homes<br />

that Bess commissioned.<br />

A decade on, Bess was<br />

widowed again and later<br />

married Sir William St Loe,<br />

inheriting further wealth from<br />

him when he too died, in 1565.<br />

Bess’ last marriage, two years<br />

later, was to George Talbot, 6th<br />

Earl of Shrewsbury, making her<br />

the Countess of Shrewsbury,<br />

Bess of Hardwick’s jewellery<br />

chest, complete with<br />

elaborate locking system<br />

from which the imposing letters on the towers of the house derive.<br />

There was much acrimony in this relationship, prompting Bess to<br />

return to her childhood home and build what is now Hardwick Old<br />

Hall and then Hardwick Hall itself, starting in 1590, after her<br />

husband died.<br />

Significantly, Robert Smythson, known as the first English<br />

architect, designed the building, which took seven years to<br />

complete. It is unique in its symmetrical design and its extensive<br />

use of glass. The adage ‘Hardwick Hall, more glass than wall’ is<br />

borne out by the more than 138,000 panes in the building –<br />

hugely expensive to install at the time.<br />

As well as grand interior features such as the 162ft long gallery -<br />

the largest surviving from the Elizabethan era - Bess’s home was<br />

adorned with lavish furnishings and portraits.<br />

Many of its treasures passed on through the Cavendishs, the<br />

family name of the Dukes of Devonshire, who lived at the hall right<br />

through to the mid-20th century when the house was given to the<br />

government in lieu of death duties. Visitors can see them today on<br />

a tour of the house, now a National Trust property.<br />

The house is particularly known for its textiles including the<br />

collection of 76 tapestries, most of which are from the Tudor or<br />

66

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