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10//WHERE Paul Clarke looking ACTIONS down SPEAK at the Milford LOUDER Road THAN from WORDS/#240 Vindication (25) in Fiordland.
She eventually succumbed to my constant badgering and, the next day, decided to lead the first hard pitch. “I should warn you – I grunt,” she said as she was about to lead. “That’s fine. I do too. Everyone does when they try hard.” “No, no. You don’t understand. People get quite alarmed if I don’t warn them first.” She pulled into the thin seam and immediately started pulling strenuous moves. The grunts erupted viscerally from somewhere deep within her. They sounded like violent dry-retching. Soon she was falling, but she pulled back on and eventually made it to the top of the pitch. The pitch squeezed me as soon as I started following it, batting me away more than once. Tiny fingers in tiny breaks in the seam. After a few metres, the line moved through an overhang to a face with razor-thin edges for the tiniest of fingertips. “That was pretty strenuous,” I said as I arrived at a luxurious belay ledge. I took a few moments for the lactic acid in my forearms to settle, looked at the easy alternative line to the left, and then at the bolted steep face above. “Well, I may as well try the face. It’s bolted.” The pitch required a committing move before the first bolt, and then some technical, moderate climbing to the crux, well above the third bolt. Involuntary shaking took hold at this point, and plenty of down-climbing, all the while running ever lower on juiice. When I finally made the move, it was easy traversing to a comfortable ledge at the base of the lightning bolt corner. Yuki led the next pitch, stemming up the base of the beautiful corner. She moved gracefully, confidently, tensioning her body between her hands on one side against her feet on the other. No grunting. ADVENTUREMAGAZINE.CO.NZ//11
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