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Wednesday <strong>March</strong> 6 <strong>2024</strong> <strong>Selwyn</strong> <strong>Times</strong><br />
Latest Canterbury news at starnews.co.nz<br />
GARDENING 27<br />
Potatoes are ready to be harvested<br />
Vegetables<br />
Your hard work has paid<br />
off – potato crops can now be<br />
harvested, before the tops have<br />
died right away from the plants.<br />
In small gardens, digging early<br />
enables the area to be used for<br />
winter greens, such as silverbeet<br />
or spring cabbage, or for a green<br />
manure crop (oats, peas, lupins)<br />
to be sown.<br />
Once the lower leaves of potatoes<br />
have turned yellow, lift the<br />
tubers and store them in a cool,<br />
dry place away from daylight.<br />
Old drawers or shallow boxes<br />
lined with newspaper are ideal<br />
for potato storage.<br />
The success of winter and<br />
spring crops depends on work<br />
done now. Mulch around the<br />
crops with compost to retain<br />
moisture, feed with liquid manure<br />
to encourage leafy growth<br />
and hoe regularly to control<br />
weeds. Hoeing also exposes to<br />
the air the upper layers of the<br />
soil, where oxygen-loving bacteria<br />
live.<br />
Broccoli can be still planted,<br />
but it is really getting too late<br />
for savoy cabbages or brussels<br />
sprouts.<br />
Fast-maturing hardy asian<br />
vegetables, such as tatsoi, can<br />
still be sown and will stand over<br />
winter.<br />
Pea and bean plants should be<br />
cleared away once their crops<br />
IT’S TIME: Potato crops can now be harvested, before the<br />
tops have died right away.<br />
PHOTO: NZ HERALD<br />
have finished and the plants<br />
added to the compost bin. Turn<br />
the ground over to cover weeds<br />
and rubbish, then sow a green<br />
manure crop or plant with<br />
spring cabbages.<br />
Flowers<br />
Garden centres are now advertising<br />
new stocks of spring bulbs,<br />
so buy early while the greatest<br />
variety is available. Anemones<br />
and ranunculus, both of which<br />
are available in single colours<br />
as well as mixed collections, do<br />
best in deeply dug soil enriched<br />
with decayed manure. This will<br />
hold moisture, but to prevent the<br />
corms rotting, improve drainage<br />
with a layer of river gravel about<br />
50cm below the surface. Plant<br />
anemone corms point down.<br />
Newer strains of ranunculus<br />
include a dwarf form, useful<br />
for growing in pots, although<br />
they need to be kept cool and<br />
well-watered to prevent flower<br />
buds shrivelling and coming to<br />
nothing. The same is true of potted<br />
tulips.<br />
As perennials die down, they<br />
can be divided using a knife or<br />
sharp spade. Perennial phlox and<br />
michaelmas daisies are easily<br />
increased in this way.<br />
Hardy annuals sown now<br />
will fill a gap in the garden<br />
once the spring show of bulbs<br />
is over. Plants that look good in<br />
the garden and as cut flowers<br />
include calendula, cornflower,<br />
annual chrysanthemum, godetia,<br />
larkspur, nigella (persian jewels<br />
is one of the best mixes) and<br />
scabious.<br />
California poppies (Eschscholtzia),<br />
although unsuitable for<br />
picking, thrive in dry, sunny<br />
conditions. As well as the common<br />
orange one, seen growing<br />
wild on river gravels and on<br />
roadsides in parts of the South<br />
Island, there are pink, rose and<br />
cream single and double forms.<br />
Border plants to sow now<br />
where they are to flower next<br />
season include viscaria, alyssum,<br />
perennial german statice (Limonium<br />
tataricum), white smoke,<br />
annual pink pokers statice (L<br />
suwarowii) and candytuft (Iberis<br />
umbellata). Sow seed on a fine<br />
day, after raking the soil surface<br />
to a fine crumb and watering it.<br />
Cover seed lightly. As seedlings<br />
appear, thin them out so each<br />
plant can develop and harden up<br />
before cold days and harsh winds<br />
settle in.<br />
Fruit<br />
Strawberries can still be planted,<br />
although the crop produced<br />
next summer will be smaller<br />
than that from young plants set<br />
out earlier in the month.<br />
June or July is the best time to<br />
transplant fruit trees and garden<br />
shrubs, but it pays to get them<br />
ready for the shift now. This<br />
is done by wrenching, slicing<br />
through the soil with a sharp<br />
spade to cut a portion of the<br />
roots.<br />
To decide where to cut, go out<br />
from the main stem or trunk to<br />
about a third of the distance the<br />
branches spread, then cut about<br />
halfway around the plant and<br />
under the cut as far as the spade<br />
will reach.<br />
The uninjured roots maintain<br />
the plant’s food supply, while the<br />
severed roots begin to form new<br />
rootlets.<br />
When the plant is lifted in a<br />
couple of months’ time, enough<br />
fibrous roots will have formed<br />
after wrenching to take in water<br />
as soon as the plant is in its new<br />
position.<br />
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