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Survey and health assessment of cosmetic products ... - Miljøstyrelsen

Survey and health assessment of cosmetic products ... - Miljøstyrelsen

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10<br />

Issues that are <strong>of</strong> importance for the self-preservation <strong>of</strong> <strong>cosmetic</strong> <strong>products</strong><br />

were discussed in the report:<br />

� Production method. Good Manufacture Practice (GMP) covers<br />

aspects like disinfection <strong>of</strong> equipment, preparation under strictly<br />

aseptic conditions <strong>and</strong> so on.<br />

� Container design. Appropriate packaging like use <strong>of</strong> dispensing<br />

mechanisms that make the entry <strong>of</strong> microorganisms into the product<br />

very difficult.<br />

� Chemical composition <strong>of</strong> the product. Self-preservation <strong>of</strong> a <strong>cosmetic</strong><br />

product can be controlled by use <strong>of</strong> e.g.<br />

o humectants that retains the moisture (water) in the formulation,<br />

which is needed for bacterial growth,<br />

o acids to lower the pH <strong>of</strong> the formulation, which slows the<br />

growth rate <strong>of</strong> bacteria,<br />

o alcohols, which in high concentrations can inhibit bacteria<br />

growth, but in lower concentrations also can retain the moisture<br />

in the formulation,<br />

o substances with antimicrobial properties, like e.g. essential oils<br />

(fragrances) or antioxidants.<br />

In order to manage the product information from the investigated <strong>products</strong> a<br />

database, containing all information about the <strong>products</strong>, was used. Of these<br />

four fragrances (citral, geraniol, limonene, <strong>and</strong> linalool) were selected - all<br />

having antimicrobial properties described in the literature. 21 different<br />

<strong>cosmetic</strong> <strong>products</strong> were analysed quantitatively at Eur<strong>of</strong>ins for the content <strong>of</strong><br />

these four fragrances in order to learn if the content was at a level that can be<br />

preserving. Subsequently a brief <strong>health</strong> <strong>and</strong> risk <strong>assessment</strong>s <strong>of</strong> the four<br />

fragrances were performed.<br />

Project results<br />

The investigated <strong>products</strong><br />

A database containing all information about the “non-preserved” <strong>and</strong><br />

“naturally-preserved” <strong>cosmetic</strong> <strong>products</strong> available on the Danish market was<br />

prepared. An almost equal amount <strong>of</strong> “non-preserved” <strong>products</strong> (45) <strong>and</strong><br />

“naturally-preserved” <strong>products</strong> (44) was found <strong>and</strong> entered into the database.<br />

In the 89 <strong>cosmetic</strong> <strong>products</strong> 459 different substances were found.<br />

The survey showed that the most frequent types <strong>of</strong> <strong>cosmetic</strong> <strong>products</strong> that are<br />

either “non-preserved” or “naturally-preserved” are body lotion, day<br />

cream/facial cream, body shampoo/bath gel, cleansing lotion, shampoo <strong>and</strong><br />

facial spray/toners.<br />

For several <strong>products</strong> the statement <strong>of</strong> “non-preserved” or “naturallypreserved”<br />

could only be found on the website, not on the actual product<br />

itself.<br />

Content <strong>of</strong> ingredients with antibacterial/antimicrobial properties<br />

It was investigated whether the “non- <strong>and</strong> naturally-preserved” <strong>cosmetic</strong><br />

properties instead <strong>of</strong> preservatives contained other ingredients with<br />

antibacterial/antimicrobial properties. The results showed that several <strong>of</strong> the<br />

“non-preserved” <strong>products</strong> contained antimicrobial ingredients, like e.g.<br />

alcohol or essential oils.

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