Survey and health assessment of cosmetic products ... - Miljøstyrelsen

3 Self-preserving cosmetics
Self-preserving cosmetic products are discussed in Kabara & Orth (1996).
Self-preserving cosmetic products are aqueous products that do not contain
added preservatives, but are packaged or stored in such a manner that
microbial contamination and growth are prevented. Furthermore, the
physicochemical composition (low water activity and high or low pH) of the
cosmetic product may be able to prevent contamination by microorganisms
and/or prevent their growth.
For example, a non-preserved product in a “ordinary” container that are used
multiple times would not be acceptable because it may become contaminated
during use, but the same unpreserved product would be acceptable if it was
manufactured, sterilized and supplied in a unit-dose container.
The term “Hurdle Technology” has been used for the control of product
safety in the food industry since the 1970s, but has also been applied for the
production of self-preserving formulations. The term is used to describe the
combination of different preservation factors or hurdles in order to prevent
the access of microorganisms into the final product and for the creation of a
hostile environment within the formula which inhibits microbial growth or
kills the microorganisms. (Varvaresou et al., 2009).
The principles of “Hurdle Technology” and of self-preserving technology are
(Varvaresou et al., 2009):
1. Good manufacturing practice (GMP)
2. Appropriate packaging
3. Emulsion form
4. Water activity
5. pH control
6. Multifunctional antimicrobial ingredients
3.1 Good Manufacturing practice (GMP)
Preparation of the cosmetic products under strictly aseptic conditions should
hinder the ingress of microorganisms. Similar water filtration, positive
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, microbial testing of raw materials, disinfection of equipment and
properly trained and dressed personnel can significantly reduce the risk of
contamination. (Varvaresou et al., 2009)
An international standard on Good Manufacturing Practices exists for
cosmetics: ISO 22716 (2007) – Cosmetics – Good Manufacturing Practices
(GMP) – Guidelines on Good Manufacturing Practices. The standard sets
standards for personnel, the premises, equipment, raw materials and
packaging materials, production, the finished products, a quality control
laboratory, and wastes. Furthermore, the standard describes what to do with
deviations, complaints, recalls and treatment of products that are out of
specification.
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Excess pressure in the room to avoid contamination from the air
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