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N° 3 - Salute per tutti

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272<br />

G. Calabrò, E. Fiammenghi, V. Lo Conte, S. La Bella, F. Ayala<br />

ageing like a progressive atrophy of derma of<br />

ipoderma and of the structures of support. 3<br />

Extrinsic factors are mainly UV radiation,<br />

which is a major cause of skin ageing 4 and also<br />

of actinic keratoses, skin carcinomas and melanomas.<br />

The primary environmental factor that<br />

causes human skin aging is UV irradiation from<br />

the sun. This sun-induced skin aging (photoaging),<br />

like chronological aging, is a cumulative<br />

process. However, unlike chronological aging,<br />

which depends on the passage of time <strong>per</strong> se,<br />

photoaging depends primarily on the degree of<br />

sun exposure and skin pigment. 5 Therefore, the<br />

most appropriate treatments may then be offered<br />

to the patient. This comprehensive approach<br />

to care requires knowledge of the mechanisms<br />

of skin ageing and the advantages and<br />

drawbacks of the different therapeutic approaches<br />

available, in order to arrive at the best therapeutic<br />

strategy and to meet patient expectations.<br />

The use of chemical peeling agent, laser<br />

resurfacing or topical retinoids can reverse same<br />

of the signs of photoaging. Chemical peeling<br />

continues to be the gold standard in cosmetic<br />

2, 6, 7, 8<br />

enhancement of facial skin. The word ‘p e e l s’<br />

covers several kinds of treatment that, by application<br />

of a chemical agent, causes destruction<br />

of a part of entire epidermidis, with or without<br />

the dermis, leading to exfoliation and removal<br />

of su<strong>per</strong>ficial lesions, followed by regeneration<br />

of new epidermal and dermal tissue. These are<br />

classified as su<strong>per</strong>ficial, medium-depth or deep<br />

peels. 9 The level of penetration, destruction and<br />

inflammations determines the level of peeling.<br />

All types of peels may produce mild irritation or<br />

predispose to herpes infection. The agents most<br />

often used for su<strong>per</strong>ficial peels are the alphahydroxy<br />

acids, such as glycolic, lactic, malic,<br />

tartaric, citric and salicylic acids. They are<br />

widely used of their exfoliating and rejuvenating<br />

effect on photo-aged skin. Although the<br />

literature is replete with the use of alphahydroxy<br />

acids, there is dearth of published data<br />

regarding the efficacy and safety of salicylic<br />

used. 10 Salicylic acid is an excellent “keratolitic<br />

agent” because of its exfoliating and rejuvenating<br />

effect on photoaged skin. It is though to<br />

function through solubilisation of intercellular<br />

cement, thereby reducing corneocyte adhesion.<br />

It is a beta-hydroxy acid, an hydroxyl derivative<br />

of benzoic acid and represent a carboxylic<br />

acid attached to an aromatic alcohol, phenol.<br />

Recently, a lipophilic derivative of salicylic acid<br />

known in the literature as 2-hydroxy-5-octa-<br />

Journal of Plastic Dermatology 2008; 4, 3<br />

noyl benzoic acid or !-lipohydroxy acid (!-<br />

LHA) (Figure 1), has been tested as a su<strong>per</strong>ficial<br />

peel at concentrations of 5% to 10% LHA TM . 11<br />

Developed by an advanced re s e a rch team, the<br />

L H A T M molecule (lipo-hydroxy-acid) is a lipophilic<br />

derivative of salicylic acid that incorporates a<br />

fatty chain for improved affinity with the epidermis<br />

allowing for faster skin re g e n e r a t i o n .<br />

The aim of the study has been to evaluate the<br />

cosmetic efficacy on ageing skin (chrono- and<br />

photo-damaged) of !-LHA, a new su<strong>per</strong>ficial<br />

peeling.<br />

aterial and Methods<br />

M<br />

A total of 20 volunteers women aged<br />

between 45 to 65 years who attended our dermatological<br />

clinic in Naples with marked signs<br />

of chrono and photoaging including presence,<br />

on the face, of fine lines and wrinkles, dry skin<br />

and mottled pigmentation, constituted the<br />

subjects for this study. Before starting therapy,<br />

for all patients, anamnesis was carried out and<br />

the following factors evaluated: age, sex, eventual<br />

pathologies and therapies in progress, photoageing<br />

and chronoaging status and skin<br />

typing according to Fitzpatrick’s classification.<br />

Pregnant and lactating ladies, patients having<br />

known sensitivity to acetylsalicylic acid and<br />

other salicylates (like aspirin), wounds skin and<br />

impracticable photoprotection, and those with<br />

a known keloidal tendency or having active or<br />

past herpes simplex infection, were excluded.<br />

The volunteers applied a solution containing 5<br />

and 10 % salicylic acid derivative, !-lipohydroxy<br />

acid (LHATM , BIOMEDIC LHA-PEEL ® )<br />

(Figure 1) to the face. The face is previously<br />

degreased by scrubbing with a cotton gauze<br />

piece soaked with a solution with absolute ethanol<br />

and acetone (50%/50% v/v).<br />

Figure 1.<br />

Chemical structure of<br />

!-lipohydroxy acid (!-LHA).

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