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Le Courageux - CMC-Versand

Le Courageux - CMC-Versand

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Specification<br />

Overall length: approx. 820 mm<br />

Overall beam: approx. 300 mm<br />

Draught: approx. 140 mm<br />

Displacement: approx. 10,000 g<br />

Scale: 1 : 20<br />

Essential accessories not included in the kit are listed on<br />

the separate sheet, as are suitable adhesives.<br />

See the main robbe catalogue for details of tools and aids<br />

to building.<br />

Fittings Set, No. 1026, and Power Set, No. 1027<br />

These two sets are required in order to produce a boat of<br />

scale appearance which is capable of running on the water.<br />

Particular parts from the Fittings Set and the Power Set are<br />

required early on in the construction of the boat, and for this<br />

reason it makes good sense to obtain them before you start<br />

building the model.<br />

Sequence of assembly<br />

The <strong>Le</strong> <strong>Courageux</strong> is designed for the advanced model builder.<br />

We therefore assume that you have a certain minimum level<br />

of experience in modelling procedures, and in these instructions<br />

we do not go into details of preparatory work such as<br />

breaking out die-cut parts, drilling holes, cutting strip material<br />

and wire to length, painting individual parts, etc.<br />

Some stages are only sketched in, and are intended simply<br />

to indicate possible methods and to stimulate your own<br />

ideas.<br />

In basic terms the numbering of the components reflects<br />

the sequence of assembly.<br />

Please read through the instructions, referring to the parts<br />

lists, the illustrations and the plan, so that you have a clear<br />

idea of how each section goes together.<br />

The photographs show the parts and sub-assemblies in<br />

<strong>Le</strong> <strong>Courageux</strong><br />

their unpainted state, as this generally makes it easier to<br />

understand the arrangements. Some detail photos show the<br />

finished, painted components on the completed model.<br />

Vacuum-moulded parts<br />

Assembly and operating instructions<br />

Sand the cut edges of the vacuum-moulded parts smooth<br />

after cutting away the scrap material.<br />

Drill holes in the vacuum-moulded components at the marked<br />

points, using the sizes of drill stated in the illustrations.<br />

Machine-cut and die-cut parts<br />

Don’t separate these parts from their support sheets until<br />

you need them for the stage in hand.<br />

The identification drawings are intended to help you locate<br />

individual parts. Write the part number on each component.<br />

When gluing parts together, ensure that punched points are<br />

left exposed, and are still accessible for drilling.<br />

Don’t throw away the scrap material (sheet, strip and wire),<br />

as it may be needed later to make other small parts.<br />

All surfaces which are to be joined must be sanded beforehand<br />

to ensure that the glue adheres well.<br />

Use only the stated and recommended adhesives.<br />

Read and observe the instructions supplied with the various<br />

adhesives.<br />

Before gluing any parts together check “dry” (no glue) that<br />

they are an accurate fit.<br />

Note that Stabilit-Express should never be applied in the<br />

form of thick fillets; spread the adhesive out thinly.<br />

All glued joints involving holes in the hull, i.e. where water<br />

could penetrate (e.g. the rudder bush, propeller tube, etc.)<br />

should be sealed all-round with a thin fillet of Stabilit-<br />

Express.<br />

Parts should be held together using clamps or adhesive<br />

tape while glued joints are drying.<br />

2<br />

No.<br />

1025<br />

Small quantities of cyano-acrylate (Speed Extra, Speed<br />

Type 2) should be applied on the tip of a pin or a length of<br />

thin wire.<br />

When soldering railing components and similar parts<br />

together, use a hot iron and complete each joint quickly, as<br />

excess heat could easily damage the plastic (superstructure,<br />

platforms etc.). Alternatively you may wish to make up a<br />

simple jig for shaping and soldering the individual railing<br />

sections before they are installed on the model.<br />

Clean up all soldered joints carefully. All the metal parts<br />

should be prepared thoroughly prior to painting by rubbing<br />

them down with fine abrasive paper and removing all traces<br />

of grease.<br />

Fit a separate heat-shrink sleeve over each soldered joint<br />

between electrical cables.<br />

Directions such as “left” and “right” are as seen from the<br />

stern of the model, looking forward.<br />

All dimensions in the text and the illustrations are stated<br />

in mm.<br />

Notes on painting<br />

Wooden parts should be given two or three coats of wood<br />

wax to render them waterproof.<br />

Any gaps between plastic parts can be made good using a<br />

plastic filler paste such as robbe rostuff-micro. Sand the filler<br />

back flush when it has set hard.<br />

Parts to be painted must be cleaned thoroughly beforehand<br />

by wiping them with methylated spirit or similar (not cellulose<br />

thinners). Try not to touch the surfaces at all between<br />

cleaning and painting. Before applying the colour finish to<br />

the hull we recommend that you give it a coat of primer and<br />

rub it down to obtain a smooth surface.<br />

If you wish to obtain a clean, neatly delineated colour scheme,<br />

you must paint the model’s components in a particular<br />

sequence:<br />

Each part which is to be a different colour should first be<br />

trimmed to fit accurately on the boat, then painted, and

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