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Here’s to<br />

day-glow<br />

swagger<br />

Safety looks good on you. For you, work is more than where you clock in and out. It’s where you<br />

hone your craft, develop pride, and boldly share your talents with the world. So whether you’re the<br />

king of the cubicle or the queen of the construction site, we salute your individuality. A lot of life<br />

happens here at work, and at SAIF we’re proud to be a part of it.


Learn more about SAIF<br />

and workers’ comp at saif.com.


4 <strong>1859</strong> OREGON’S MAGAZINE JANUARY | FEBRUARY <strong>2018</strong>


Pachamama<br />

Farm<br />

photography by Bradley Lanphear<br />

At Pachamama Farm, Michael Antoci allows<br />

his pigs (and other livestock) to roam free<br />

and forage throughout the property. Twice<br />

each day they’re called in to the barn for<br />

meals consisting of scraps from some of your<br />

favorite Oregon businesses. Maybe there’s<br />

nothing wrong with casting your pearls before<br />

swine after all. (Farm to Table, pg. 36)<br />

JANUARY | FEBRUARY <strong>2018</strong> <strong>1859</strong> OREGON’S MAGAZINE 5


Emily Green<br />

FEATURES<br />

JANUARY | FEBRUARY <strong>2018</strong> • volume 49<br />

88<br />

A Delicious Art<br />

Bend’s Nickol Hayden-Cady, who<br />

owns and operates cult-favorite<br />

Foxtail Bakeshop, brings romance<br />

to the cake game.<br />

photography by Emily Green<br />

80<br />

Columbia’s Tough Mother<br />

Finds Techie Offspring<br />

The company Gert Boyle built<br />

is pushing tech barriers, moving<br />

into warmer seasons and heating<br />

up its stock.<br />

written by Kevin Max<br />

74<br />

Romance on the Road<br />

You’ve survived the holidays.<br />

Now it’s time to step back and frame<br />

the year ahead with one of our five<br />

top romantic getaways.<br />

written by Sheila G. Miller<br />

6 <strong>1859</strong> OREGON’S MAGAZINE JANUARY | FEBRUARY <strong>2018</strong>


Florence Events Center, host of the 2nd Star Festival. Funded by the Oregon Cultural Trust.<br />

TOGETHER, WE FUND 1,400+ CULTURAL<br />

NONPROFITS IN OREGON.<br />

INCLUDING THIS BOY AND HIS DRAGON.<br />

Oregonians have a unique opportunity to fund cultural activities in the<br />

state and double their impact for free - with the Cultural Tax Credit. Make<br />

sure you are claiming yours. Doing so takes three simple steps that do so<br />

much for Oregon. Talk to your CPA, or learn more at (503) 986-0088 or<br />

CulturalTrust.org.<br />

DOUBLE THE LOVE. HERE’S HOW:<br />

1. TOTAL<br />

YOUR DONATIONS<br />

TO CULTURE<br />

2. GIVE 3. CLAIM<br />

A MATCHING<br />

AMOUNT TO THE<br />

CULTURAL TRUST<br />

CULTURAL TAX<br />

CREDIT ON YOUR<br />

STATE TAXES


DEPARTMENTS<br />

JANUARY | FEBRUARY <strong>2018</strong> • volume 49<br />

70<br />

LIVE<br />

20 NOTEBOOK<br />

Oregon-made candles, beer and bourbon are sure to heat up the romance. Plus, curl up<br />

with the Oregon Book Award’s top fiction book of 2017 and some tunes out of Astoria.<br />

28 FOOD + DRINK<br />

We’ve got the best sweet treats from around the state, as well as an insider’s look at the<br />

best food spots on the northern Oregon Coast. Bonus: Oregon’s annual truffle festival<br />

returns with epicurean events for everyone.<br />

36 FARM TO TABLE<br />

The hogs at Pachamama Farm receive top treatment—including food from Umpqua<br />

Dairy and Franz Bakery. Talk about keeping it local.<br />

54<br />

Kjersten Hellis<br />

104<br />

Peter Mahar<br />

44 HOME + DESIGN<br />

A historic home in Portland gets a Gatsby-inspired update. Plus, advice for finding your<br />

home’s personal style.<br />

54 MIND+ BODY<br />

In Eugene, Debby King and Nancy Woodke are transforming the golf landscape by<br />

making the sport more accessible to women and children.<br />

56 ARTIST IN RESIDENCE<br />

In May 1941, the Bonneville Power Administration hired Woody Guthrie for a month to<br />

write songs for a film about the hydroelectric system. He wrote thirty songs in thirty days.<br />

THINK<br />

64 STARTUP<br />

Sarah Pool couldn’t stay out of the startup game—lucky for us. With her new company,<br />

Canvas, she’s converting beer’s spent grain into barley milk.<br />

66 WHAT’S GOING UP<br />

The best spots for a romantic dinner are coming your way in Bend, McMinnville<br />

and Portland.<br />

68 WHAT I’M WORKING ON<br />

The Oregon Social Learning Center has conducted a decades-long study on partner<br />

violence and romantic relationships.<br />

Tim Mantoani<br />

70 MY WORKSPACE<br />

In Lake Oswego, a mother and daughter have cornered the Oregon wedding market in the<br />

form of a popular dress store and wedding planning company.<br />

72 GAME CHANGER<br />

The Oregon Community Foundation’s Creative Heights grants let artists take chances.<br />

14 Editor’s Letter<br />

16 <strong>1859</strong> Online<br />

118 Map of Oregon<br />

120 Until Next Time<br />

EXPLORE<br />

98 TRAVEL SPOTLIGHT<br />

Underneath Pendleton lies a secret city. Pendleton Underground Tours gives you an<br />

inside look at the town’s somewhat unsavory history.<br />

100 ADVENTURE<br />

Winter is no excuse to stop exploring—and what’s more romantic than a hike to<br />

a waterfall?<br />

104 LODGING<br />

Heceta Head Lighthouse Bed & Breakfast offers a historical stay with most modern<br />

comforts included.<br />

COVER<br />

photo by Shauna Intelisano<br />

(see Columbia’s Tough Mother Finds<br />

Techie Offspring, pg. 80)<br />

106 TRIP PLANNER<br />

Road trip! Take to the coast to learn about the lighthouses still open to the public in an<br />

Oregon Coast quest.<br />

112 NORTHWEST DESTINATION<br />

Sun Valley: Come for the winter. Stay for the summer.


DESIGN<br />

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CUSTOM SOLAR ENERGY HOMES<br />

A space as magnificent as the view.<br />

Inspired by breathtaking surroundings, Neil Kelly’s design/build remodeling team unlocked the<br />

floor plan and entertainment potential of this Oregon Coast kitchen to deliver unobstructed views,<br />

abundant seating and serving space, and an elegant bar for the resident mixologist. Now, the beauty<br />

of the space is rivaled only by the view it commands. No matter what’s outside your window —<br />

beach or mountains, desert or downtown — talk to us. We can give your home a whole new outlook.<br />

WE TAKE PRIDE IN<br />

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CONTRIBUTORS<br />

KIMBERLY BOWKER<br />

Writer<br />

Trip Planner<br />

Traveling along the contours<br />

of the Oregon coast was<br />

a surprising journey filled<br />

with regional character. Each<br />

lighthouse served the same<br />

function but highlighted<br />

something different when I<br />

arrived—there was the fairytale<br />

lighthouse, the cute short one,<br />

the one high on bluffs and the<br />

one touched by waves. I was<br />

excited to approach every light,<br />

never exactly sure what to<br />

expect—each offered a different<br />

lens to the sea.<br />

(p. 106)<br />

JEN STEVENSON<br />

Writer<br />

Gastronomy/Dining<br />

As winter hits its cold, dark<br />

stride, I love avoiding cabin<br />

fever in one of my favorite<br />

neighborhood restaurants,<br />

where good conversation,<br />

warming cocktails and big bowls<br />

of hot ramen or rich ragu help<br />

take the chill off. Rain or shine,<br />

we food lovers have it so good<br />

here in Oregon, and exciting new<br />

places to eat and drink just won’t<br />

stop opening. Luckily, it’s my job<br />

to keep up with them!<br />

(p. 32)<br />

SHAUNA INTELISANO<br />

Photographer<br />

Cover/Feature 2<br />

It was such an honor to<br />

photograph Gert Boyle, as<br />

I’ve been a fan of Columbia<br />

since I was a kid. Gert truly<br />

embodies the heart and soul<br />

of Columbia. It’s captivating to<br />

listen to her talk about her story<br />

and philosophies on life and<br />

business, and she has a great<br />

sense of humor, too. My favorite<br />

quote of the day from Gert is<br />

when she revealed this insider<br />

tip about her success: “Early to<br />

bed, early to rise, work like hell<br />

and advertise!”<br />

(p. 80)<br />

BRADLEY LANPHEAR<br />

Photographer<br />

Farm to Table<br />

Pachamama Farm was like a window into the past. Michael has<br />

created something truly special, with old-world style practices and<br />

a philosophy of “as little intrusion into the animal’s life as possible.”<br />

It’s refreshing to see livestock animals raised in such a natural and<br />

healthy environment. Not only do they live happy lives, but they have<br />

also played a major role in keeping the land itself healthy.<br />

(p. 36)<br />

10 <strong>1859</strong> OREGON’S MAGAZINE JANUARY | FEBRUARY <strong>2018</strong>


OUR IDEAS STAND<br />

ON THEIR OWN<br />

Building a robot that can stand and walk on two<br />

legs is hard. So hard that few have even tried. But<br />

faculty and students in Oregon State’s top-5-inthe-nation<br />

robotics program have figured it out —<br />

creating robots that are much more capable. Now,<br />

OSU spinoff company, Agility Robotics, is working<br />

on robots that can do everything from package<br />

delivery to search-and-rescue missions.<br />

At Oregon State, we push ourselves to the<br />

very edge of what’s known — and keep going<br />

OUT THERE.<br />

Oregon State University has transformed the<br />

state, nation and world over the last 150 years.<br />

Visit the Oregon Historical Society Museum’s<br />

exhibit, Oregon State University: A Legacy of<br />

Transformation, <strong>Feb</strong>. 9 to Sept. 9 in Portland.<br />

OSU150.org


EDITOR<br />

MANAGING EDITOR<br />

CREATIVE DIRECTOR<br />

DESIGN<br />

MARKETING + DIGITAL MANAGER<br />

WEBMASTER<br />

OFFICE MANAGER<br />

DIRECTOR OF SALES<br />

ACCOUNT EXECUTIVES<br />

HOME GROWN CHEF<br />

BEERLANDIA COLUMNIST<br />

CONTRIBUTING WRITERS<br />

CONTRIBUTING PHOTOGRAPHERS<br />

Kevin Max<br />

Sheila G. Miller<br />

Brooke Miracle<br />

Allison Bye<br />

Kelly Rogers<br />

Isaac Peterson<br />

Cindy Miskowiec<br />

Jenny Kamprath<br />

Cindy Guthrie<br />

Jenn Redd<br />

Jill Weisensee<br />

Thor Erickson<br />

Jeremy Storton<br />

Kim Bowker, Susannah Bradley, Melissa Dalton, Sophia McDonald,<br />

Brittany Norton, Sydney Padget, Ben Salmon, Sam Smargiassi,<br />

Jen Stevenson, Mackenzie Wilson<br />

Emily Green, Kjersten Hellis, Shauna Intelisano, Bradley Lanphear,<br />

Peter Mahar, Brittany Norton, Jenn Redd, Sam Smargiassi<br />

Statehood Media<br />

Mailing Address:<br />

Portland Address:<br />

70 SW Century Dr. 1801 NW Upshur St.<br />

Suite 100-218 Suite 100<br />

Bend, Oregon 97702 Portland, Oregon 97209<br />

<strong>1859</strong>magazine.com/subscribe<br />

@<strong>1859</strong>oregon<br />

Printed in Canada<br />

All rights reserved. No part of this publiCation may be reproduCed or transmitted in any form or by any means, eleCtroniCally or meChaniCally, inCluding<br />

photoCopy, reCording or any information storage and retrieval system, without the express written permission of Statehood Media. ArtiCles and photographs<br />

appearing in <strong>1859</strong> Oregon’s Magazine may not be reproduCed in whole or in part without the express written Consent of the publisher. <strong>1859</strong> Oregon’s Magazine<br />

and Statehood Media are not responsible for the return of unsoliCited materials. The views and opinions expressed in these artiCles are not neCessarily<br />

those of <strong>1859</strong> Oregon’s Magazine, Statehood Media or its employees, staff or management.<br />

12 <strong>1859</strong> OREGON’S MAGAZINE JANUARY | FEBRUARY <strong>2018</strong>


You’re Home<br />

Once you become a Southern Oregon University Raider, you’re home.<br />

Our supportive campus environment and fierce commitment to inclusion and<br />

diversity provide limitless opportunities for you to reach your fullest potential.<br />

We offer 36 majors, exceptional faculty with the highest degrees in their fields,<br />

a beautiful, vibrant campus, and easy access to an array of natural wonders.<br />

There’s something for everyone at Southern Oregon University.<br />

Call us and arrange a campus tour today.<br />

SOU.EDU | 855-470-3377


FROM THE<br />

EDITOR<br />

A 46-YEAR-OLD Gert Boyle took over the<br />

ailing Columbia Sportswear in 1970 after her<br />

husband died. A lot was on her plate. “When<br />

my husband died and they put me in charge, I<br />

didn’t really know anything,” said the 93-yearold<br />

Tough Mother in an interview. “What<br />

the hell, you know, you gotta do what you<br />

gotta do.” Over the next decades, Gert and<br />

her son, Tim Boyle, would build a sportswear<br />

empire around extremely cold and extremely<br />

wet conditions. The company’s signature<br />

products were parkas with Gore-Tex and<br />

the Bugaboo’s zip-off layers, “tested tough”<br />

through iconic television commercials shot<br />

on mountaintops and in car washes. For<br />

many years, though, this is where the brand<br />

languished, not quite keeping step with time.<br />

Today, Columbia is on a tear. It is designing<br />

cutting-edge products, transforming itself<br />

into a sportswear tech incubator, diversifying<br />

its seasonal revenue, putting footwear<br />

at the fore, connecting with a younger<br />

demographic and impressing Wall Street—<br />

all with the national treasure of Gert Boyle<br />

as chairman of the board. Turn to page 80 to<br />

read about Columbia’s comeback.<br />

We also look at folk singer Woody<br />

Guthrie’s defining moment for his career and<br />

for Oregon, which he recalls, “Thumbing it.<br />

Hitching it. Walking and talking it. Chalking<br />

it. Marking it. Sighting it and hearing it.” The<br />

missing pieces from the story of the musical<br />

icon, whose ballads are as alive and relevant<br />

as they were during The Great Depression,<br />

come together in a fascinating update on<br />

page 56.<br />

There is a place where romance and<br />

nostalgia come together in a stunning<br />

portfolio. The Oregon Coast is home to<br />

nine lighthouses from the nineteenth<br />

century that are architecturally diverse<br />

and open to the public. From Cape Blanco<br />

north to Cape Meares, we lay out our Trip<br />

Planner for a great rainy-weather weekend<br />

outing along a string of beautiful and<br />

historic lighthouses. See Trip Planner on<br />

page 106.<br />

Hop on over to Ketchum, Idaho, for a<br />

visit to the iconic winter playground of<br />

Hollywood’s Golden Era. Two of Ketchum’s<br />

most notable denizens fought on different<br />

ideological battlefields in two World<br />

Wars—Ernest Hemingway, who served<br />

in the armed forces fighting fascism, and<br />

Count Felix Schaffgotsch, an Austrian who<br />

took up with Hitler after developing Sun<br />

Valley. In this Northwest Destination, we<br />

look into the old, the new and summer’s<br />

hidden secret of the Ketchum area. Turn<br />

to page 112.<br />

Don’t wait for Valentine’s Day to make<br />

your big plans this year. Check out our top<br />

five picks for Romantic Getaways in <strong>2018</strong><br />

and find one that’s perfect for you and your<br />

partner. Across the state and into the arms<br />

of cozy, these are some intriguing settings<br />

from fireplaces and Finnish saunas to<br />

glamping on the Columbia River.<br />

Let’s not forget that <strong>Jan</strong>uary is a time<br />

for broken resolutions. Look no further<br />

than the pork belly BLT (page 40) from<br />

Steamboat Inn in our Recipes. Check our<br />

expanded local recipes at <strong>1859</strong>magazine.<br />

com to find more regional dishes. Happy<br />

New Year!<br />

14 <strong>1859</strong> OREGON’S MAGAZINE JANUARY | FEBRUARY <strong>2018</strong>


WE’RE #1 BECAUSE<br />

THEY’RE #1<br />

OREGON’S TOP RANKED CHILDREN’S HOSPITAL.<br />

Kids deserve our best — every day. So Doernbecher brings together more children’s<br />

specialists than anywhere else in the region. That’s made us the only children’s<br />

hospital in Oregon to earn specialty rankings among the best in the country.


<strong>1859</strong> ONLINE<br />

More ways to connect with your favorite Oregon content<br />

<strong>1859</strong>magazine.com | #<strong>1859</strong>oregon | @<strong>1859</strong>oregon<br />

DIGITAL EXCLUSIVE<br />

At Pachamama Farm, raising happy animals is key. Find out<br />

more in our exclusive online video.<br />

<strong>1859</strong>oregonmagazine.com/pachamamafarm<br />

VIDEO<br />

Need some baking<br />

inspiration? Check out<br />

our online video and<br />

get an inside look at<br />

the creative process at<br />

Foxtail Bakeshop<br />

in Bend.<br />

<strong>1859</strong>oregonmagazine.<br />

com/foxtailbakeshop<br />

have a photo that shows off your<br />

oregon experience?<br />

Share it with us by filling out the Oregon Postcard<br />

form on our website. If chosen, you’ll win custom<br />

<strong>1859</strong> gear and a chance to be published here.<br />

<strong>1859</strong>oregonmagazine.com/postcard<br />

photo by Caleb Wallace<br />

Abiqua Falls, Oregon<br />

Emily Green<br />

Bradley Lanphear<br />

16 <strong>1859</strong> OREGON’S MAGAZINE JANUARY | FEBRUARY <strong>2018</strong>


NOTEBOOK 20<br />

FOOD + DRINK 28<br />

FARM TO TABLE 36<br />

HOME + DESIGN 44<br />

MIND + BODY 54<br />

ARTIST IN RESIDENCE 56<br />

pg. 36<br />

Pachamama pigs are wild and free.<br />

Bradley Lanphear


At Oregon Oncology Specialists, we provide advanced, compassionate<br />

cancer care in the Willamette Valley, with highly trained physicians and<br />

staff committed to your needs. In every way, our focus is on you.<br />

Salem | McMinnville | Silverton | Woodburn<br />

(503) 561-6444 | OregonOncologySpecialists.com<br />

how to catch your<br />

dinner in seaside<br />

It’s easy, and there are lots of ways to do it.<br />

First, rent your gear at Trucke’s on Highway 101.<br />

You can razor clam at low tide.<br />

You can fish right off the 12th Avenue bridge.<br />

You can even throw a crab ring in the river at 12th.<br />

Just toss it in, go have fun, then check back later.<br />

Still empty handed? There’s no shame in buying your fresh<br />

catch from Bell Buoy seafood. We won’t tell if you don’t.<br />

seasideOR.com


notebook<br />

Tidbits + To-dos<br />

Beth Van Hoesen<br />

Kingdom Animalia<br />

Visit the Portland Art Museum now through May<br />

to view its Kingdom Animalia exhibit, featuring<br />

art through animals from Dürer to Picasso. The<br />

exhibit offers a depiction of the animal kingdom<br />

over the past 500 years through print, drawing<br />

and posters.<br />

portlandartmuseum.org<br />

Beer Bouquet<br />

Looking for something cool and different<br />

for your Valentine? The beer bouquet is<br />

a great idea for all of the beer lovers in<br />

your life. Recipients receive six seasonal<br />

brews with a snack and choice of glass<br />

centerpiece. You can also sign up for a<br />

year-long subscription.<br />

bouquetofbeer.com<br />

Bourbon and Bacon Fest<br />

OMSI After Dark hosts its second annual<br />

Bourbon and Bacon Fest on <strong>Jan</strong>uary 14 for<br />

one night only. Sip your way through some of<br />

the best bourbon the region has to offer from<br />

distillers large and small. There is no shortage<br />

of bacon tasting, too, from hors d’oeuvres to<br />

main dishes, all with bacon as the star.<br />

portland.bourbonandbaconfest.com<br />

20 <strong>1859</strong> OREGON’S MAGAZINE JANUARY | FEBRUARY <strong>2018</strong>


A NEW YEAR...<br />

A New Place to Call Home.<br />

NOW IS THE PERFECT TIME to make<br />

a move to Mountain Meadows 55+<br />

Community—owned, operated and governed<br />

by the residents themselves.<br />

Pillow Talk<br />

Maloy's offers a fabulous selection of antique and<br />

estate jewelry and fine custom jewelry, as well as<br />

repair and restoration services. We also buy.<br />

Eat.<br />

Drink.<br />

Be dazzled.<br />

Fabulous cuisine,<br />

history, heritage, and<br />

romantic vistas.<br />

See Albany <br />

Discover Oregon<br />

Tel: 541-928-0911<br />

www.albanyvisitors.com<br />

110 3rd Ave SE<br />

Albany, OR 97321<br />

857 Mountain Meadows Drive, Ashland, Oregon 97520<br />

(800) 337-1301, www.mtmeadows.com<br />

Voted America’s Best by National Council on Senior’s Housing.


notebook<br />

Portland Pet Food Company<br />

The Portland Pet Food Company believes you should feed<br />

your dog like you feed yourself—with quality ingredients. With<br />

dog biscuits and meals cooked from scratch, you can be sure<br />

your pooch is getting the best possible nutrition. Bonus—100<br />

percent of the dog food is sourced and made in the<br />

United States.<br />

portlandpetfoodcompany.com<br />

Farmhouse Candle Shop<br />

The Farmhouse Candle Shop in Redmond<br />

began with one goal in mind—to create<br />

chemical-free candles. These soy wax candles<br />

are infused with essential oils and made with<br />

100 percent U.S.-grown soy wax, which is<br />

renewable and biodegradable. A variety of<br />

scents are available in the online shop, plus<br />

they come in a neat little mason jar.<br />

farmhousecandleshop.com<br />

Salem Winter Brewfest<br />

Featuring more than a hundred craft beers and ciders<br />

along with an impressive food and music lineup, this<br />

winter event brings together all the things that make the<br />

Willamette Valley and Salem such a great place.<br />

<strong>Feb</strong>ruary 1-4<br />

salemwinterbrewfest.com<br />

22 <strong>1859</strong> OREGON’S MAGAZINE JANUARY | FEBRUARY <strong>2018</strong>


Nonstop<br />

EUG to PHX


notebook<br />

Musician<br />

More Grit, More Glory<br />

Astoria’s Holiday Friends<br />

go melancholy<br />

written by Ben Salmon<br />

SINCE 2008, the Astoria band Holiday Friends<br />

has specialized in exuberant pop-rock music,<br />

stuffing songs with vibrant synths, driving<br />

rhythms and earworm melodies. That’s still<br />

true on the band’s new album, Night Terrors.<br />

But this time, the songs have a harder edge,<br />

with more noise and melancholy in the mix.<br />

Singer/guitarist Scott Fagerland<br />

said Astoria’s persistently overcast<br />

skies may play a part in that tonal<br />

shift. But there’s more to it than<br />

just the weather.<br />

“By the time we were finished<br />

writing Night Terrors, we were<br />

mostly in our late 20s, and with that<br />

simply came more life experience,<br />

particularly real challenges and<br />

hurdles … in our day-to-day<br />

lives,” he said. “As a writer for the<br />

majority of the lyrics, I wanted to<br />

be transparent with my struggles.”<br />

Translation: The members of<br />

Holiday Friends aren’t getting any<br />

younger, and the dream they once<br />

had of making it big has given way<br />

to a more realistic view of success.<br />

“We’ve learned how difficult<br />

(breaking through) can be,”<br />

Fagerland said, “but we’ve never<br />

given up on the idea of reaching a<br />

much wider audience.”<br />

Having self-recorded Night<br />

Terrors in its own new studio,<br />

Holiday Friends is better equipped<br />

to reach more people than ever<br />

before. If it takes adding a bit of grit<br />

and gloom to the band’s pop sheen<br />

to do so, all the better.<br />

“I like songs with some weight to<br />

them,” Fagerland said. “I find that I<br />

can listen to them more.”<br />

Austin White<br />

Listen on Spotify<br />

Holiday Friends, based<br />

in Astoria, has been<br />

making music together<br />

since 2008.<br />

24 <strong>1859</strong> OREGON’S MAGAZINE JANUARY | FEBRUARY <strong>2018</strong>


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notebook<br />

Bibliophile<br />

First Time’s a Charm<br />

Portland author’s debut novel wins state award<br />

interview by Sheila G. Miller<br />

JOYCE CHERRY CRESSWELL is proof that sometimes a story just<br />

has to be told. After years of hearing family lore about her greatgrandmother’s<br />

time as a doctor in the Civil War, she set out to<br />

research and write a historical fiction version of the woman’s life.<br />

The book, A Great Length of Time, earned the Oregon Book<br />

Award’s Ken Kesey Award for Fiction in September, quite a feat<br />

for a debut novel that she self-published.<br />

Cresswell retired seven years ago after time working at a<br />

nonprofit, as a stay-at-home mom, and as an attorney. When<br />

she retired, it was time to start writing. “I always sort of dared<br />

myself to write and I’d never gotten around to doing it,” she said.<br />

“I decided once I’d retired, there were no more excuses.” Her love<br />

for history, and historical fiction especially, led her to look at the<br />

family story and “start poking around.”<br />

Your book is fiction, but it springs<br />

from at least a kernel of truth?<br />

My mother’s mother was an orphan,<br />

and in 1906 she was adopted out of an<br />

orphanage by two women in Oakland,<br />

California. One of those two women<br />

had been a doctor in the Civil War. It’s<br />

her story I’m telling. I don’t know a lot<br />

about her actual experiences, but she<br />

was relatively well-known—there were<br />

several biographies written about her<br />

but they’re very formal, there’s not<br />

much to tell about her personal life so<br />

it’s hard to know exactly what occurred.<br />

So the basic character of the book is the<br />

same. After that, it’s my imagination.<br />

It may be your imagination, but you<br />

clearly did a lot of research.<br />

The research was just a blast. With the<br />

internet, you can really find anything.<br />

You want to know what the weather<br />

was on June 11, 1864, and you can read<br />

the newspaper reports on the actual<br />

rainstorm while sitting in your kitchen.<br />

Google is digitizing documents, and<br />

they’re currently working through a lot<br />

of old documents and old newspapers<br />

and old books, so you can download<br />

anything you need from that era. I<br />

have the obstetrics textbook that my<br />

great-grandmother was taught with in<br />

medical school. I knew I had to have an<br />

amputation scene in my book, so I have<br />

downloaded from the internet the actual<br />

Army surgical field guides used by both<br />

the North and the Confederates. The<br />

actual manuals. It’s just fabulous—you<br />

can get anything!<br />

Why did you decide to self-publish<br />

the book?<br />

I looked for a publisher for about six<br />

months—not really hard, but pretty<br />

rigorously—and my research was<br />

telling me that publishers are looking<br />

for someone who has a lot of books in<br />

them, who will have four or five really<br />

good books in a lifetime. I knew I didn’t<br />

have that in me—I was already past 60<br />

and I didn’t know if I was going to be<br />

attractive to agents. At the same time,<br />

my elderly mother really wanted a copy<br />

and I really wanted to put a copy in her<br />

hands. I found a<br />

company called<br />

Indigo—they’re<br />

these really cool,<br />

young people who<br />

have graduated<br />

from Portland State University’s<br />

master’s program in publishing and<br />

created a consulting company. You buy<br />

services on an al a carte basis. They were<br />

really fabulous for this intermediary<br />

role for someone who wanted a good,<br />

professional product. If I thought I was<br />

going to spend my career as a fiction<br />

writer or as a nonfiction writer, I probably<br />

would still try to go the traditional route.<br />

But there are really good writers out<br />

there who have turned to self-publishing.<br />

Are you writing anything new?<br />

I would like to do another book. I’m in the<br />

process—I have an outline in the back of<br />

my head. It would be historical fiction<br />

about a family during the Depression. I<br />

think about it and chew on it and I read<br />

stuff about the Depression, but I’m<br />

taking my time.<br />

26 <strong>1859</strong> OREGON’S MAGAZINE JANUARY | FEBRUARY <strong>2018</strong>


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food + drink<br />

CLOCKWISE, FROM LEFT Hand-painted and tiled pieces are found throughout the Worthy Brewing campus. This inlay is found on wood reclaimed from what was<br />

originally the Oregon Insane Asylum, where the movie One Flew Over The Cuckoo’s Nest was filmed. A galactic mosaic runs through the brewery. Hops are grown on site.<br />

Visitors can observe the night sky from Worthy’s “hopservatory.”<br />

Beerlandia<br />

Disneyland for Beer Drinkers<br />

written by Jeremy Storton<br />

“I WANT TO BUY up all that wood. One day I’m going to use<br />

that wood. That’s Cuckoo wood,” said Roger Worthington, who<br />

defines himself as the Bull Goose Looney at Bend’s Worthy<br />

Brewing, as he sat across from me and my Strata IPA. He is a<br />

disciple of poet-warrior and Oregon author Ken Kesey, who<br />

wrote One Flew Over The Cuckoo’s Nest.<br />

Worthy Brewing is now adorned with wood from what was<br />

originally called the Oregon Insane Asylum, where the movie<br />

was filmed. Worthington, a lawyer and hop developer, then<br />

explained how a conversation with fellow lawyer and beer icon<br />

Jim Koch, of The Boston Beer Company, led him to the brewery<br />

biz. Worthington was expounding on new hops and new flavors<br />

for beer drinkers when Koch asked, “Don’t you want to be there<br />

to see their faces light up?”<br />

Every brewery has its schtick—Northwest IPAs, German<br />

lagers, Belgian ales, macro, nano, you name it. Defining Worthy’s<br />

schtick is a bigger challenge. Mix equal parts state ambassador,<br />

Cuckoo’s Nest museum, garden education center, environmental<br />

hub, galactic observatory, center for art and science as well as<br />

brewery and pub—now you’re getting warmer. Worthington<br />

simply calls it, “Beertopia.”<br />

Worthington, who “always envisioned building a mini-campus<br />

where, in one place, you can combine art and science,” blends<br />

creativity and execution and surrounds himself with like-minded<br />

folks. “This around you, right here,” he continued, “speaking<br />

from the Hop Mahal at Worthy Brewing, a little place we call<br />

Beertopia, is a result of a lot of dreaming and a lot of doing.”<br />

“Around here,” he waved his hand as if to display all that<br />

Worthy stands for, “we’re firm believers in drinking up and<br />

dreaming on.”<br />

28 <strong>1859</strong> OREGON’S MAGAZINE JANUARY | FEBRUARY <strong>2018</strong>


finest wines<br />

EXPERIENCE SOME<br />

OF OREGON’S<br />

<strong>1859</strong>wineclub.com/join-the-club<br />

Join <strong>1859</strong> Wine Club and sample winemakers from across<br />

the state, or gift a membership to family and friends!


food + drink<br />

Recipe Card<br />

recipe courtesy of Bull Run Distillery<br />

Ceres’ Bounty<br />

1½ ounces Bull Run Oregon Single Malt<br />

¼ ounce Allspice Dram<br />

1 ounce apple cardamom shrub (see recipe<br />

below)<br />

¾ ounce lemon juice<br />

¼ ounce simple syrup<br />

1 dropper Messina Cardamom bitters<br />

Add all ingredients to a shaker tin with ice.<br />

Shake and double strain onto a large ice cube<br />

in double old-fashioned glass. Garnish with a<br />

star anise pod.<br />

FOR APPLE CARDAMOM SHRUB<br />

5 pounds Akane apples (or other tart red<br />

apple, such as Pink Lady)<br />

5 cups granulated sugar<br />

3 cups apple cider vinegar<br />

3 tablespoons green cardamom pods<br />

4 cinnamon sticks<br />

Crush cardamom and cinnamon with a mortar<br />

and pestle until just broken, add to vinegar and<br />

let sit to infuse at least overnight and preferably<br />

for three to four days. Strain and store in fridge<br />

for up to three months.<br />

Core and chop apples, add to a food<br />

processor 1 to 2 cups at a time and process<br />

until cubed. Add cubed apple pieces and sugar<br />

to a large container and<br />

allow to macerate<br />

overnight. Strain<br />

macerated fruit syrup<br />

through a fine mesh<br />

strainer into a new<br />

container, pressing the<br />

fruit to extract all juices.<br />

Add cardamom vinegar<br />

to apple syrup, stir well<br />

and allow to rest for one<br />

week for flavors to meld.<br />

Darryl Joannides pours wine for customers at a dinner.<br />

A Little Bit of Italy,<br />

Here in Oregon<br />

written by Carrie Wynkoop of Cellar 503<br />

ASSAGIO—PORTLANDERS REMEMBER it as a cozy<br />

neighborhood trattoria with a fantastic wine list. And no<br />

wonder, given the commitment to great wine that owner-chef<br />

Darryl Joannides brought to the task. His love of Italian food<br />

was matched only by his love of Italian wine.<br />

Fast forward a few years, and after putting Assagio in the<br />

rearview mirror, Joannides dedicated himself to wine. He<br />

interned at a Sonoma winery, and later, with celebrated Oregon<br />

winemaker Andrew Rich at the birth of the Carlton Winemakers<br />

Studio. After discovering the great diversity of Oregon wine, he<br />

opened the Cork Bottle Shop in northeast Portland.<br />

But the winemaking bug had bit, and Joannides combined<br />

his two loves—Italy and Oregon. His latest venture, Viola<br />

Wine Cellars, is about wine crafted in the Italian style using<br />

Northwest ingredients.<br />

Starting with just four varietals, Viola is now up to fifteen,<br />

constantly experimenting to find the varietals that make great<br />

Oregon “Italians.”<br />

The <strong>1859</strong> Wine Club will feature Viola Wine Cellars’ Bianco<br />

D’Allegre in its <strong>Jan</strong>uary shipment.<br />

Join the <strong>1859</strong> Wine Club to explore more Oregon wines<br />

at <strong>1859</strong>magazine.com/wineclub<br />

30 <strong>1859</strong> OREGON’S MAGAZINE JANUARY | FEBRUARY <strong>2018</strong>


Enjoy our classic Oregon wines &<br />

breathtaking vineyard views<br />

Please join us and learn about the<br />

amazing story of our winery and<br />

the Oregon wine industry as you<br />

take in the sweeping views of the<br />

vineyard. The setting is warm<br />

and relaxing to enjoy our wines<br />

and pair with seasonal dishes.<br />

Wine Tasting | Daily Food Pairings Menu | Winery Tours | Wine Dinners<br />

OPEN DAILY 11 AM - 6 PM<br />

Brewing Adventurous Ales in Bend, OR since 2011<br />

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WillametteValleyVineyards.com<br />

8800 Enchanted Way SE · Turner, OR 503-588-9463 · info@wvv.com<br />

Jim Bernau, Founder/Winegrower<br />

Made For<br />

Sharing<br />

HOME, GARDEN & GIFT<br />

5th & Olive • 541-342-6820<br />

Monday-Saturday 10-6 • Sunday 10-5<br />

downtoeartheugene.com<br />

DTE <strong>1859</strong> Magazine <strong>Jan</strong>/<strong>Feb</strong><strong>2018</strong>


food + drink<br />

Kathryn Elsesser<br />

John Valls<br />

Gastronomy<br />

Oregon Truffle Festival<br />

written by Jen Stevenson<br />

A HAUTE SPOT in the midst of the Pacific Northwest’s notoriously saturnine winter,<br />

the Annual Oregon Truffle Festival returns this <strong>Jan</strong>uary and <strong>Feb</strong>ruary, with two full<br />

weekends of truffle foraging and feasting throughout the state. From <strong>Jan</strong>uary 25 through<br />

28, Eugene will host the festivities, starting with the Joriad North American Truffle Dog<br />

Championship’s war of the noses, followed by a truffle growers’ speaker series, Grand<br />

Truffle Dinner, truffle macaroni and cheese “macdown” and fresh truffle marketplace<br />

with cooking demonstrations and truffles for sale. On <strong>Feb</strong>ruary 16, the merrymaking<br />

moves north to the beautiful Yamhill Valley, as Willamette Valley Vineyards and chef<br />

Ken Forkish (Ken’s Artisan Bakery, Trifecta) kick off the weekend with a wine and truffleredolent<br />

reception for the film, James Beard: America’s First Foodie. Afterward, savor a<br />

full schedule of truffle dinners, truffle hunts, winery luncheons, a four-course dinner at<br />

Domaine Serene winery with renowned Portland chefs Vitaly Paley and Cathy Whims,<br />

and the Newberg Fresh Truffle Marketplace, where guests sample regional wines and<br />

artisan foods, as well as fresh Oregon truffles, of course. Tickets are available for sale at<br />

oregontrufflefestival.org, and a portion of the festival proceeds will be donated to the<br />

Food for Lane County food bank in Eugene.<br />

oregontrufflefestival.org<br />

CLOCKWISE FROM LEFT A truffle forager holds up a find. Truffle dog Stella sniffs<br />

out a truffle. Chef Sunny Jin of The Allison Inn & Spa prepares for the Black &<br />

White Dinner Series in 2016. Diners enjoy a winery luncheon at Lady Hill in St. Paul.<br />

32 <strong>1859</strong> OREGON’S MAGAZINE JANUARY | FEBRUARY <strong>2018</strong>


WEEKEND WANDERINGS:<br />

NORTH COAST<br />

food + drink<br />

John Valls<br />

Kathryn Elsesser<br />

Ghostly shipwrecks, iconic movie settings, some<br />

of the state’s richest history, and crispy beerbattered<br />

and fried Pacific Ocean albacore—<br />

Oregon’s North Coast is a true treasure chest of<br />

must-sees and must-eats.<br />

EN ROUTE<br />

It’s but a two-hour trek northwest to Astoria<br />

from Portland, but to fuel your journey, stop<br />

off in Hillsboro at Helvetia Tavern, a no-frills,<br />

cash-only local landmark that specializes in beer,<br />

burgers and bucolic surroundings. A half hour<br />

up Highway 26, brake for a bit of boutique wine<br />

sampling at Wines of Oregon, a tasting room<br />

run by a collective of Oregon wineries hailing<br />

from the Rogue Valley to the Columbia River<br />

Gorge. And if you’ve never met a cinnamon<br />

roll you didn’t fall head over heels for, take a<br />

slight detour to Camp 18 Restaurant in Elsie,<br />

a log-cabin-themed pit stop that advertises its<br />

signature sweet as “huge and delicious.”<br />

EAT + DRINK<br />

Line up with the Astorians for fish ‘n chips<br />

at charming boat-bound Bowpicker, give your<br />

regards to the sea lions that lounge beneath a<br />

glass panel in the floor before bellying up to the<br />

bar at Buoy Beer, and make tough choices at<br />

Frite & Scoop (get both the frites and scoops,<br />

obviously), before working it all off with a brisk<br />

stroll along the Astoria Riverwalk. Taste your<br />

way through Pilot House Distilling’s lineup,<br />

then sober up with oyster chowder poutine and<br />

grass-fed beef burgers at cozy Albatross.<br />

A day of sand castle building, kite-flying and<br />

biking along the historic Seaside prom works<br />

up an appetite, so make your way to Bell Buoy,<br />

a no-nonsense fish market and restaurant<br />

about a mile from downtown. Satisfy your<br />

every seafood whim with some of the coast’s<br />

best clam chowder and fresh Dungeness crab<br />

served with slaw and cheesy bread; if the<br />

weather’s cooperating, eat at the back deck bar<br />

overlooking the Necanicum River. Back in town,<br />

carefully sample the selection before making<br />

your choice at Sea Star Gelato, where many of<br />

the homemade gelatos and sorbets are crafted<br />

with local fruit, then settle into a seat near the<br />

fire pit with a pint of Seaside Brewing Co.’s<br />

Sneaker Wave IPA.<br />

The perennially popular coastal hamlet of<br />

Cannon Beach charms with shingled cottages,<br />

beachy boutiques, old-fashioned candy shops,<br />

local seafood and local spirits. After linguini<br />

and clams and line-caught halibut at Harding<br />

Trading Company, taste award-winning rums<br />

and short-lived seasonal spirits at Cannon<br />

Beach Distillery, or make tough decisions at<br />

new MacGregor’s Whiskey Bar in Manzanita,<br />

which features more than 150 types of scotch,<br />

whiskey, bourbon and rum.<br />

Time stands still in rustic Rockaway Beach,<br />

where locals and passersby alike pile into<br />

Offshore Grill and Coffee House for seafood<br />

omelets and homemade biscuits and sausage<br />

gravy before exploring Nehalem Bay State Park.<br />

After a morning of fishing and clamming in<br />

Nehalem Bay, crack crab at the Jetty Fishery.<br />

Or, enjoy bubbles and freshly shucked local<br />

bivalves at new Source Oyster and Wine Bar<br />

in Garibaldi.<br />

In nearby Tillamook, join the happy herds<br />

at wildly popular Tillamook Creamery for<br />

a self-guided tour, plentiful cheese samples<br />

and oversized scoops of Oregon marionberry<br />

cheesecake ice cream piled high on chocolatedipped<br />

cones. Just down the road, there’s a<br />

little something for everyone at Blue Heron<br />

Creamery—kids will make a beeline for the<br />

petting zoo, while adults will veer toward the<br />

wine bar. Gather picnic provisions from the deli<br />

and head west, passing U-Pick oysters signs en<br />

route to Cape Meares, which offers some of the<br />

most dramatic coastal views in the state.<br />

A haven for surfers, fishing enthusiasts and<br />

beachcombers, Pacific City’s petite patch of<br />

sand a half hour southwest of Tillamook is just<br />

the spot for a relaxing weekend of surf and<br />

suds—stop into friendly beachfront Pelican<br />

Brewing Company for a taster tray and hearty<br />

pub grub like the smoked oyster bruschetta and<br />

Tsunami Stout bacon jam-slathered Backyard<br />

BBQ burger. After a big breakfast at cheery The<br />

Grateful Bread bakery and café, charter a dory,<br />

book a surfing or SUP lesson, climb the famous<br />

Cape Kiwanda dune, or just sit on your hotel<br />

balcony and savor the sea views.<br />

SLEEP WELL<br />

Settle into your river-view room at the<br />

Cannery Pier Hotel & Spa with a bottle of<br />

Fort George Brewery’s barrel-aged imperial<br />

stout and one of the front desk’s copies of<br />

The Goonies, pausing occasionally to watch a<br />

freight ship steam by. Watch the sunset from<br />

your Haystack Rock-facing balcony at the cozy<br />

Stephanie Inn, then head downstairs for a<br />

complimentary port nightcap in the oceanfront<br />

library. If you’ve always been intrigued by the tiny<br />

house movement, try your hand at living light for<br />

a night at Sheltered Nook in Bay City. And come<br />

<strong>Jan</strong>uary, book a long weekend at the luxurious<br />

Headlands Coastal Lodge & Spa, featuring a full<br />

spa, “adventure coaches” in lieu of a traditional<br />

concierge, and the beautifully designed beachfacing<br />

Meridian Restaurant and Bar.<br />

JANUARY | FEBRUARY <strong>2018</strong> <strong>1859</strong> OREGON’S MAGAZINE 33


food + drink<br />

BEST PLACES FOR<br />

SWEET SOMETHINGS<br />

HITHER<br />

If your Valentine is more impressed by fried dough than<br />

diamonds, the homemade doughnuts at this charming new<br />

Ashland café and coffeehouse will ensure a smooth start to the<br />

holiday. Puffy, pale gold, stuffed with silken custard and dusted<br />

with sugar, they’re a must-order. On the savory side, don’t<br />

bypass the excellent crème fraîche biscuit sandwich or softscrambled<br />

herbed eggs. After your meal, browse the shop’s<br />

artisan larder, and buy a bundle of flowers to go. Doughnuts<br />

and dahlias? Talk about brownie points.<br />

376 E MAIN ST.<br />

ASHLAND<br />

hithermarket.com<br />

KIOSKO<br />

Love affairs with coffee are de rigueur in Portland, but the<br />

waterfront’s newest caffeine klatsch is taking this romance to<br />

a whole new level by slipping a trio of ahogados, a.k.a coffee<br />

poured over ice cream, onto the menu. Impress a hot date<br />

with the chipotle-spiked chocolate mole ice cream heaped with<br />

cacao nibs and pepitas, dusted with crushed dried raspberries,<br />

and served with a sweet, crunchy waffle chip and a shot of the<br />

house espresso.<br />

1816 SW RIVER DR.<br />

PORTLAND<br />

kiosko.coffee<br />

DOUGH DOUGH BAKERY<br />

Strolling the promenade with your sweetheart on a misty winter<br />

morning is best done post-apple cinnamon scone, so start the<br />

day strong at this bright and bustling Seaside bakery, where<br />

the pastry case is full of surprise twists—moist, flaky chocolate<br />

tahini rolls, chai tea-infused pumpkin scones, and thick slabs of<br />

currant and pecan-studded butternut squash bread.<br />

8 N HOLLADAY<br />

SEASIDE<br />

facebook.com/doughdoughbakery<br />

MAP CHOCOLATE CO.<br />

Former river guide, pastry chef and law student Mackenzie<br />

Rivers found her true calling in chocolate, and her beautiful new<br />

line of small batch bars—infused with everything from toasted<br />

black sesame and dried plums to cardamom and caraway<br />

seed—can now be found in the state’s best specialty markets,<br />

like Eugene’s 5th Street Market, and Portland’s Providore Fine<br />

Foods, Little Nib and The Meadow. Or, treat your favorite cacao<br />

buff to Rivers’ hands-on Bean to Bar 101 classes and weekendlong<br />

Chocolate Camp, which includes instruction on craft<br />

chocolate origins and sourcing, hands-on chocolate making,<br />

and a signature In Pod We Trust T-shirt.<br />

EUGENE<br />

mapchocolate.com<br />

Dining<br />

Proud Mary<br />

written by Jen Stevenson<br />

AROUND THIS TIME of year, wintering in Australia starts to<br />

sound tempting, especially the sun, surf and sparkling ale parts.<br />

But if snowbirding Down Under isn’t in the cards, try the next best<br />

thing: a leisurely brunch at the new Melbourne-born coffee roaster<br />

and café that’s quickly captured the hearts of finicky Portland food<br />

lovers. Although best known for its rigorously sourced and roasted<br />

beans, Proud Mary is equally adept in the dining department, with<br />

a vibrant seasonal menu of brunch dishes that taste as good as they<br />

look, no small feat considering the kitchen’s eye for artistic detail.<br />

The breakfast sashimi is an exquisite tangle of wild-caught Oregon<br />

albacore, soft-boiled egg, heirloom carrot, fennel and fronds, the<br />

mile-high avocado toast puts other versions to shame, and the<br />

ricotta hotcake is an Instagram come to life—a pillow of vanillabean-flecked<br />

cake topped with a soft dollop of lemon curd cream,<br />

shards of meringue, cherry-syrup-macerated berries and edible<br />

flower petals. Serious coffee drinkers would be remiss not to take<br />

advantage of the flawless flat whites and cerebral espresso flights,<br />

but those who eschew Portland’s favorite bean can be assured of an<br />

excellent tea, juice and smoothie selection—whether you’re in the<br />

mood for a Smooth Barney, or a Banana Hammock.<br />

2012 NE ALBERTA ST.<br />

PORTLAND<br />

proudmarycoffee.com<br />

Proud Mary’s Cauli-town, a vegan and gluten-free dish with<br />

warm spiced cauliflower, chickpea dahl puree, sumac onions,<br />

tahini, crispy chickpea and sesame granola.<br />

34 <strong>1859</strong> OREGON’S MAGAZINE JANUARY | FEBRUARY <strong>2018</strong>


NEW YEAR’S RESOLUTION:<br />

BARRIO<br />

charlie & katie are<br />

WINEBYJOE.COM


farm to table<br />

Farm to Table<br />

Easy Living<br />

Pachamama Farm takes<br />

free-range to the next level<br />

written by Sophia McDonald<br />

photography by Bradley Lanphear<br />

WHEN YOU FIRST step onto Michael Antoci’s pig farm in<br />

Days Creek, it’s eerily quiet. Light shines through the stands of<br />

fir trees, producing a heady scent of pine. A shaggy white dog<br />

strolls around a cedar-shingled barn, but there are no other signs<br />

of life.<br />

Then a call rings out: “Sooey!” Nearly a hundred pigs come<br />

racing out of the trees and into the barn. They thrust their heads<br />

into troughs and scarf up the slop Antoci has mixed for them.<br />

When it’s gone, he shakes a rattle and cries out again: “Hip hip<br />

hip.” As fast as they appeared, the animals vanish into the trees.<br />

This scene plays itself out twice a day. The rest of the time<br />

the pigs are left to forage for roots and nuts or relax in “pig<br />

palaces” built from pallets and other salvaged materials. This<br />

easy living is very much by design. “Stress is a key indicator in<br />

the pH and quality of the meat,” Antoci said. “The stress-free<br />

environment from birth to harvest is one of the keys in creating a<br />

holistic product.”<br />

Raising happy animals that produce the best-quality<br />

meat was Antoci’s goal when he left the restaurant<br />

industry in California. Ready to leave the pollution<br />

36 <strong>1859</strong> OREGON’S MAGAZINE JANUARY | FEBRUARY <strong>2018</strong>


farm to table<br />

FROM LEFT Zeus surveys the Pachamama Farm property.<br />

The 110-acre farm is located in Days Creek. Pachamama’s<br />

pigs are free to roam the forested property.<br />

and overpopulation in his home state, he started looking just<br />

across the Oregon border for farmland. In Jackson and Josephine<br />

counties, marijuana growers were driving up the cost of land, so he<br />

went north to Douglas County, which doesn’t allow pot growers.<br />

That’s where he found the 110-acre plot that would become<br />

Pachamama Farm.<br />

Antoci planned to raise pigs, sheep, goats and turkeys. Pigs<br />

became the focus when he found an optimal source for their slop:<br />

Umpqua Dairy and Franz Bakery products nearing their expiration<br />

dates. Every Saturday, he takes a truck to their warehouses and<br />

picks up thousands of pounds of ice cream, milk, bread and other<br />

nutrient-dense discards.<br />

This system helps the producers shrink the amount of food<br />

they send to local landfills. It also allows Antoci’s Berkshire,<br />

Gloucestershire Old Spot, Red Wattle, Mangalica and other oldworld<br />

hog breeds develop rich, marbled muscle that high-end<br />

markets and restaurants clamor for. “These are the<br />

original red meat pigs that were common before the<br />

‘Other White Meat’ campaigns in the 1940s and ’50s came<br />

in to try to save the pork industry,” he said. “Suddenly<br />

JANUARY | FEBRUARY <strong>2018</strong> <strong>1859</strong> OREGON’S MAGAZINE 37


farm to table<br />

ABOVE Michael Antoci raises Berkshire, Gloucestershire Old Spot, Red Wattle, Mangalica<br />

and other old-world hog breeds. Twice each day, Antoci calls the pigs in with a “Sooey!” shout.<br />

people didn’t want lard pigs, they wanted pigs for<br />

bacon and lean meat.” The pendulum has finally<br />

swung back. “Now everyone wants fatty, Kobestyle<br />

pork.”<br />

In addition to reducing food waste and saving<br />

heritage breeds, Antoci is fiercely committed to<br />

protecting small family farms and fighting off the<br />

ills of industrial agriculture. He’s helped a few<br />

locals find markets for their pigs and is working<br />

to put together a co-op so they can get a fair price<br />

for their meat.<br />

He sees these actions as the best way to protect<br />

consumers against monocropping and other<br />

problematic practices that exist even on some<br />

organic farms. “Our food is no longer in our<br />

hands,” he said. “Small farms are the only way<br />

for America to keep genetic diversity within our<br />

hands. Without that, if something were to happen<br />

within the common breeds, we wouldn’t have<br />

the genetic diversity to fight off a disease. That’s<br />

what’s so important about small organic farms—<br />

we are protecting the food system in many ways.”<br />

Oregonians raise about 3,000 pigs every<br />

year, putting the state thirty-fifth in total pork<br />

production. One of the reasons the number is so<br />

low is that Oregon lacks a major feed crop such as<br />

corn or soybeans.<br />

The other challenge facing those who do raise<br />

pigs is the shortage of processing plants. “As we<br />

see more of these little niche market producers<br />

get into the business, the lack of USDAinspected<br />

facilities really makes it difficult for<br />

them to expand,” said Gene Pirelli, a professor at<br />

Oregon State University’s Department of Animal<br />

and Rangeland Sciences and an Extension<br />

Service agent.<br />

Should you be lucky enough to procure some<br />

farm-raised Oregon pork, one option for cooking<br />

it is to slow roast it into tender, saucy Kahlua<br />

pork from Wild Pear Restaurant and Catering<br />

in Salem. Co-owner Jessica Ritter serves it on a<br />

cheddar-onion bun with ginger-lime slaw and<br />

marionberry barbecue sauce.<br />

For something simpler, grill pork belly for a<br />

classic BLT. This recipe from Paul Naugle at the<br />

Steamboat Inn in Idleyld Park starts with a coffee<br />

cumin cure on the pork and ends with fresh<br />

tomatoes, crisp lettuce and a lemon-spiked aioli<br />

that add layers of texture and flavor.<br />

VIDEO: See more from Pachamama Farm<br />

at <strong>1859</strong>oregonmagazine.com/pachamamafarm<br />

38 <strong>1859</strong> OREGON’S MAGAZINE JANUARY | FEBRUARY <strong>2018</strong>


farm to table<br />

CLOCKWISE FROM TOP Raising<br />

happy animals is Antoci’s goal.<br />

Antoci also raises goats, sheep and<br />

other animals. Among other foods,<br />

the pigs feast on leftovers from<br />

Umpqua Dairy and Franz Bakery.<br />

JANUARY | FEBRUARY <strong>2018</strong> <strong>1859</strong> OREGON’S MAGAZINE 39


farm to table<br />

Oregon Recipes<br />

Perfect Pork<br />

Kahlua Pork<br />

SALEM / Wild Pear Restaurant and Catering<br />

Pork Belly BLT<br />

IDLEYLD PARK / Steamboat Inn / Paul Naugle<br />

SERVES 20<br />

2 5-pound boneless pork shoulder roasts<br />

⅓ cup kosher salt<br />

¼ cup black pepper<br />

¼ cup liquid smoke<br />

2 large pieces of fresh ginger, thinly sliced lengthwise<br />

¼ cup minced garlic<br />

2 quarts water<br />

Preheat oven to 300 degrees. Butterfly each roast lengthwise<br />

and stuff with the sliced ginger and minced garlic. Season with<br />

half the salt and pepper.<br />

Close each roast, fat side up, and place in a 4-inch-deep hotel<br />

pan. Pour 2 quarts of water in the pan. Pour the liquid smoke<br />

evenly over the pork. Season the pork with the remaining salt<br />

and pepper.<br />

Cover tightly with foil and bake for 12 hours. Let roast cool.<br />

Remove ginger from inside of roasts. Place pork in a large bowl<br />

and pull apart with 2 forks.<br />

Strain cooking liquid and add back to pulled pork.<br />

Balsamic Roasted Pork Tenderloin<br />

CARLTON / Carlton Farms<br />

SERVES 10<br />

4 Carlton Farms pork tenderloins, trimmed (approximately<br />

4½ pounds)<br />

4 tablespoons balsamic vinegar<br />

4 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil<br />

8 cloves garlic, cracked<br />

Carlton Farms Papa Jake’s seasoning* (or substitute steak<br />

seasoning, salt and pepper)<br />

4 sprigs fresh rosemary, stripped and chopped<br />

4 sprigs fresh thyme, stripped and chopped<br />

Preheat oven to 500 degrees.<br />

Place tenderloins on a nonstick cookie sheet with a rim. Coat<br />

tenderloins in a few tablespoons of balsamic vinegar, rubbing<br />

vinegar into meat. Drizzle tenderloins with extra-virgin olive<br />

oil, just enough to coat. Cut small slits into meat and disperse<br />

chunks of cracked garlic cloves into meat. Combine Papa Jake’s<br />

seasoning with rosemary and thyme and rub meat with blend.<br />

Do not add extra salt.<br />

Roast in hot oven for 20 minutes. Let meat rest, transfer to a<br />

carving board, slice and serve.<br />

*Papa Jake’s Seasoning is available at Carlton Farms retail store<br />

or online at carltonfarms.com.<br />

40 <strong>1859</strong> OREGON’S MAGAZINE JANUARY | FEBRUARY <strong>2018</strong><br />

SERVES 4<br />

FOR BELLY CURE<br />

¼ cup sugar<br />

¼ cup salt<br />

(or enough to cover both sides of the belly)<br />

FOR COFFEE-CUMIN RUB<br />

3½ ounces fresh coffee, ground fine<br />

1½ ounces whole cumin, ground fine, toasting optional<br />

2 ounces brown sugar<br />

¼ ounce pepper<br />

½ ounce salt<br />

FOR BLT<br />

1 extra-large fresh farmers market tomato<br />

4 pieces leaf lettuce<br />

8 slices sourdough bread<br />

FOR HERBED AIOLI<br />

½ cup mayonnaise<br />

Zest of 1 Meyer lemon<br />

2 heirloom garlic cloves, minced<br />

3 tablespoons fresh rosemary, finely chopped<br />

1 tablespoon fresh flat leaf parsley, finely chopped<br />

½ teaspoon sea salt<br />

¼ teaspoon fresh ground black pepper<br />

Sift equal parts sugar and kosher salt together. Rub the entire belly with<br />

the 50-50 mix, place in a roasting pan fat side up and refrigerate for 6 to<br />

12 hours. Do not leave the belly in the dry brine for more than 24 hours.<br />

Preheat oven to 450 degrees. Pull the pork belly from the fridge and<br />

remove any liquid that has accumulated in the pan. Mix the coffee-cumin<br />

rub together and press evenly across the top of the pork belly, covering<br />

to the edge. Place the belly in the oven and cook for 1 hour. Turn the oven<br />

temperature down to 250 degrees and cook for another 1 to 2 hours.<br />

Pull the belly from the oven when it is tender, but not falling apart.<br />

Transfer the belly to a cookie sheet or cutting board and place in the<br />

fridge. Pour the fat and black pork “jelly” from the bottom of the roasting<br />

pan into a clear bowl or wide-mouth jar. The jelly will congeal beneath the<br />

fat and can be separated once the fat cools.<br />

Slice the cooled belly in 1/2-inch to 1/4-inch “bacon” slices, 1 to 2 slices<br />

per sandwich. Use the reserved fat to reheat slices of pork belly in a cast<br />

iron pan on medium-high heat until perfectly browned on both sides.<br />

Put bread in a toaster, or into an oven preheated to 450 degrees.<br />

Toast lightly, until slices are barely browned and still soft. Whip the aioli<br />

ingredients together in a small bowl using a fork or small whisk. Spread<br />

the finished aioli across the toasted slices. Wash and de-stem the lettuce<br />

and tomato. Slice tomato and salt both sides. Assemble the BLT, drizzling<br />

a very small amount of pork jelly over each belly piece as a finishing touch.


farm to table<br />

Home Grown Chef<br />

Pork and Recreation<br />

written by Thor Erickson<br />

photography by Jenn Redd<br />

WHEN I WAS 9 years old, my family of six relocated from a<br />

small house in the big city to a big house in a small town in the<br />

country. My father had a dream that we would become a selfsustaining<br />

family commune—raising all our own meat and<br />

vegetables, making our own macramé clothing, and on the cover<br />

of the Whole Earth Catalog.<br />

His first act was buying three steers, which he aptly named<br />

Breakfast, Lunch and Dinner, in hopes that we would not see<br />

them as pets but as our future meals. He would watch them as<br />

they slowly chewed the alfalfa hay, and he would wax about the<br />

great steaks, roasts and burgers that would soon be ours. In the<br />

summer, we picked wild elderberries and with them made jam,<br />

wine and vinegar. In the fall, we grew pumpkins and sold them<br />

for Halloween jack-o-lanterns.<br />

For my tenth birthday, my parents gave me two piglets. One<br />

was brown, the other black. I named them Lenny and Squiggy<br />

after my favorite characters in the show “Laverne & Shirley.” I had<br />

no idea how to raise them. Along with the pigs, my dad gave me a<br />

book, Raising Pigs Successfully, that told me everything I needed<br />

to know—building an escape-proof pen (from which Lenny and<br />

Squiggy escaped dozens of times), proper feeding (they ate a lot<br />

of elderberries and pumpkins), and lastly, how to butcher pigs.<br />

I was apprehensive to read this chapter. I fed, watered and had<br />

daily talks with my two swine friends. Before I knew it, they had<br />

both grown to about 200 pounds. It was not fair to these pigs to<br />

force them to carry around more weight.<br />

I read the chapter on pig slaughtering and butchery. Following<br />

the instructions, I fed them a last meal of raw eggs (from our<br />

chickens, of course) washed down with some of the first vintage<br />

of elderberry wine, and did the deed. It was a few months<br />

before I became detached (and hungry) enough to think about<br />

consuming the meat from the pigs. When I finally bit into one of<br />

the juicy pork chops, I could not believe how great it tasted. All<br />

of the hard work and love I put into caring for these animals was<br />

right there. I was sad that I had to share it with my sisters.<br />

As I grew older and became a cook and then a chef, I took with<br />

me the knowledge that if good food and care go into raising food,<br />

that food will be good as well. This is especially important where<br />

meat is concerned. I like to know how animals are raised before<br />

I cook and eat them. Oregon is host to many wonderful heritage<br />

pork producers. One farm I visit regularly is Piggyback Ranch.<br />

Greg and Hilary Smith’s 54-acre biodynamic farm just outside<br />

of Bend is home to heritage breed hogs such as Gloucestershire<br />

Old Spot and English Large Blacks that are raised with the same<br />

love and care that I used with Lenny and Squiggy. In addition to<br />

pork, Piggyback also raises meat chickens and eggs. They do not,<br />

however, have any plans to make macramé clothes.<br />

42 <strong>1859</strong> OREGON’S MAGAZINE JANUARY | FEBRUARY <strong>2018</strong>


farm to table<br />

Apple Cider-Brined Braised Pork Chops<br />

with Warm Apple Mustard Sauce<br />

Thor Erickson<br />

SERVES 8<br />

2 cups cold water<br />

1 cup Crystal Diamond kosher salt<br />

1 cup packed light brown sugar<br />

2 sprigs fresh thyme<br />

1 teaspoon whole black peppercorns<br />

1 teaspoon whole cloves<br />

4 cups unfiltered apple cider<br />

2 cups ice cubes<br />

8 1-inch or thicker pork chops (thicker chops<br />

increases cooking time)<br />

In a large saucepan over medium-high heat, bring the<br />

water, salt, sugar, thyme, peppercorns and cloves to<br />

a boil. Cook for 2 to 3 minutes, stirring occasionally,<br />

or until the sugar and salt dissolve. Remove from the<br />

heat, add the apple cider and ice cubes, and stir well.<br />

Put the meat in a nonreactive pan or extra-large<br />

resealable bag and cover with the cooled brine. Cover<br />

or tightly close the bag and refrigerate for 6 to 12<br />

hours. If you are using a resealable bag, rotate the<br />

pork a few times to make sure all of the meat is<br />

brined. Before roasting, remove the pork and pat dry<br />

with paper towels.<br />

Grill over high heat until the pork is nicely browned,<br />

about 4 minutes per side. Reduce the heat or move<br />

the chops to a cooler part of the grill. Continue<br />

cooking the chops until an instant-read thermometer<br />

inserted in the thickest part of the chops registers<br />

140 degrees for medium, about 10 minutes (a bit<br />

longer for thicker chops). Let the chops rest for 5<br />

minutes, then serve with the warm apple mustard<br />

sauce.<br />

FOR APPLE MUSTARD SAUCE (MAKES 2 QUARTS)<br />

2 Granny Smith apples, peeled, cored and sliced<br />

1 shallot, finely diced<br />

4 ounces Oregon riesling<br />

1 tablespoon whole grain mustard<br />

1 tablespoon butter<br />

Sauté the apple slices and shallots in a tablespoon<br />

of light oil over medium heat until shallots are<br />

translucent. Add the riesling and mustard and reduce<br />

the sauce by half. Don’t worry if the apples fall apart<br />

a bit. Remove sauce from heat and swirl in the butter.<br />

Adjust seasoning and serve with the pork chops.<br />

JANUARY | FEBRUARY <strong>2018</strong> <strong>1859</strong> OREGON’S MAGAZINE 43


home + design<br />

One of a Kind<br />

A Portland interior designer helps<br />

homeowners find their personal<br />

style in a historic home<br />

The Huigens' den features painted woodwork<br />

and lotus-printed wallpaper to up the glamour.<br />

David Papazian<br />

written by Melissa Dalton<br />

THE FAÇADE OF Betsy and Brent Huigens’<br />

Portland Foursquare is as traditional as<br />

it gets, with a gracious front porch and<br />

stately oak front door. Inside, there’s a<br />

striking den tucked beyond the living<br />

room. In it, blue-black painted woodwork<br />

frames walls clad in lush lotus-printed<br />

wallpaper. Overhead, the bright coppertoned<br />

tin ceiling shines in the sunlight,<br />

while a snug red leather Chesterfield sofa<br />

beckons passersby to sit. Not immediately<br />

apparent? That the coffee table, a steamer<br />

trunk, has been carefully selected not only<br />

for looks, but because it’s wide enough<br />

to hold a pizza box for family movie<br />

nights. Such is the way the room captures<br />

the Huigens’ approach to living in their<br />

century-old home. The bones remain<br />

traditional, but the décor serves up Great<br />

Gatsby-era glamour combined<br />

with modern function—perfect for<br />

a busy young family.<br />

44 <strong>1859</strong> OREGON’S MAGAZINE JANUARY | FEBRUARY <strong>2018</strong>


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home + design<br />

David Papazian<br />

Vicki Simon collected<br />

one-of-a-kind furnishings<br />

with soft lines to juxtapose<br />

with the Foursquare architecture.<br />

Betsy Huigens is trained as a civil engineer and has worked<br />

on substantial infrastructure planning projects over the course<br />

of her career. As such, precision and up-to-date technology are<br />

essential to her professional<br />

life. Yet it’s the reminders of<br />

the past that she celebrates<br />

in her home. “This was<br />

built in 1910, so they didn’t<br />

have the construction<br />

sophistication that they<br />

have today,” she said. She<br />

points to the den’s elaborate<br />

crown molding which,<br />

upon closer inspection, is<br />

not the same width from one end of the room to the other.<br />

Huigens appreciates such quirks. “This room is the epitome of<br />

not square,” she said. “I just think that’s so cool.”<br />

It was this character that Huigens and her husband sought<br />

to preserve when they bought the house in early 2016. While<br />

previous homeowners had made changes to the interior,<br />

including a kitchen remodel and painting the den’s woodwork<br />

white, the Huigens weren’t interested in making further<br />

alterations that might prove out-of-sync. Instead, they restored<br />

all of the old wooden windows and retooled glitchy door<br />

hardware. When it<br />

came time to decorate,<br />

“It’s the treasure hunt. That’s<br />

what makes my job really fun.”<br />

the couple needed an<br />

interior designer who<br />

could help them express<br />

their personal style and<br />

ensure functionality for<br />

their family, while still<br />

respecting the house’s<br />

traditional shell. They<br />

found a kindred spirit in<br />

Vicki Simon, of Vicki Simon Interior Design.<br />

The Huigens’ Foursquare sparked Simon’s imagination on her<br />

very first walk-through. “There was a detail that really struck my<br />

eye,” she said, pointing to the living room’s wooden<br />

baseboard, which cascades up almost 2 feet high and<br />

is crowned with a cap mold. “I was enamored. It just<br />

spoke to me as being so lovely.” Such historic details<br />

—Vicki Simon, on choosing furnishings<br />

for Betsy and Brent Huigens’ home<br />

46 <strong>1859</strong> OREGON’S MAGAZINE JANUARY | FEBRUARY <strong>2018</strong>


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David Papazian<br />

David Papazian<br />

FROM LEFT Simon redesigned the kitchen island and hung a custom-made brass pot rack. The powder bath's low ceiling was lifted and an antique table with a vessel sink gives the<br />

small room more space.<br />

inspire Simon’s method: that of pulling together a mix of furnishings,<br />

treatments and accessories that can convey the homeowners’<br />

individuality and still retain the prevailing architecture.<br />

The process took ten months and generally didn’t involve<br />

shopping from catalogs. “There was a lot of digging through<br />

crates at antique stores and flea markets,” Huigens said. “Vicki<br />

introduced me to the joy and appreciation of it.” Simon agrees.<br />

“It’s the treasure hunt,” she said with a grin. “That’s what makes my<br />

job really fun.” Finding one-of-a-kind items means finding unique<br />

sources, whether a booth in a dusty antique mall or the studio of<br />

a local maker. Take the antique map dealer that Simon discovered<br />

in Portland. “It’s the kind of place you expect in New York City,”<br />

Simon said. “His whole house is maps.” The Huigens spent hours<br />

flipping through his wares in order to find pieces that resonated,<br />

such as the 600-year-old map of the Pacific Ocean that’s now<br />

framed in the living room. “[Maps] are an art form that we’ve<br />

always enjoyed, but we also appreciate the science behind them,”<br />

Huigens said.<br />

For items they couldn’t locate, Simon had them custom-made,<br />

such as the copper top on the kitchen table, a bespoke brass pot<br />

rack and the carpet runner on the stairs. “It was very educational<br />

for us,” Huigens said of working with Simon. “I don’t think I’ll ever<br />

enter a furniture shop or an antique store the same way. I used to<br />

hate it, but now it’s a pastime.”<br />

Furnishings from different eras and styles were joined to create<br />

just the right mix, which is Simon’s specialty. In the living room,<br />

she combined a 1970 Italian Hollywood Regency style coffee table<br />

with antique English Jacobean armchairs and a 1960s-era C. Jere<br />

brutalist sculpture. In order to prevent visual chaos, Simon used<br />

strategic contrast. “Everything is strict geometry here,” she said<br />

of the Foursquare’s architecture. So she counteracted it with the<br />

repeated use of soft, sinuous lines, such as in the scroll of a table<br />

leg or the delicate swirl of the lotus wallpaper.<br />

In the case of the kitchen and powder room, Simon needed to<br />

make thoughtful tweaks to ensure the rooms functioned better<br />

and still flowed with the rest of the house. In the kitchen, she<br />

noticed that the scale of the island was off. “It was a very narrow<br />

thing,” she said. “It looked really out of place.” She redesigned it for<br />

a better fit, including an overhang for stool seating and an elegant<br />

end-grain butcher block counter.<br />

In the powder bath, a dropped ceiling crowded the small<br />

window and a too-large vanity blocked the door. Simon raised<br />

the ceiling height, specified new floor tile and redesigned the<br />

woodwork. “I very deliberately mimicked the trim from the rest<br />

of the house in this room,” she said, “so that you can imagine this<br />

being original to the house.” Now, a petite antique table topped<br />

with a vessel sink flatters the small footprint. Walls lacquered with<br />

antiqued champagne gold leaf and a streamlined Art Déco-style<br />

light fixture brings in the Huigens’ style.<br />

Months after the last picture was hung, the couple is discovering<br />

how well their new-old home suits their life, whether it’s catching<br />

up at the end of the day over the new kitchen island or stealing<br />

into the cozy den with a glass of wine. “I really respected and<br />

appreciated the house itself and I wanted to do it right,” Huigens<br />

said. “We looked at zero catalogs and zero retail stores. Everything<br />

is one-of-a-kind. That’s exactly what we wanted.”<br />

48 <strong>1859</strong> OREGON’S MAGAZINE JANUARY | FEBRUARY <strong>2018</strong>


DREAM BIG<br />

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year with our treasured clients. In the words of<br />

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photo by Lane Pearson<br />

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home + design<br />

DIY: Mastering<br />

a Personal Mix<br />

THE FOLLOWING five tips offer ideas for crafting<br />

a more personal décor scheme in your home.<br />

1<br />

2<br />

INSTALL SOULFUL LIGHTING<br />

When the Huigens first bought their house, it was outfitted<br />

entirely with reproduction fixtures from a catalog. According<br />

to Simon, lighting is the “jewelry of the house,” which makes it<br />

an opportunity to introduce style and soul. She replaced those<br />

fixtures with vintage pieces from different eras, such as the<br />

1960s brass lotus chandelier, shown here, in the entry vestibule.<br />

MAINTAIN CONSISTENCY THROUGH SUBTLE REPETITION<br />

“Every piece of furniture you see has curves,” Simon said of<br />

the Huigens’ mix. This is true, whether the piece is a 1940<br />

<strong>Jan</strong>sen dining chair with a curved back or a scroll on a 1920s<br />

cigarette table. Additionally, when picking out hardware and<br />

accessories, she and Huigens opted for brass accents to further<br />

unify the space.<br />

BALANCE PAINT WITH ARTFUL WALL FINISHES<br />

In the living room, Simon had the walls painted a “complex<br />

neutral” color to balance the wood tones of the original<br />

woodwork, which were untouched by previous owners. In other<br />

rooms, she suggested artful wall finishes. To that end, the<br />

Portland-based workshop Bravura Finishes lacquered the entry<br />

vestibule in a show-stopping red and applied a shimmering<br />

antique champagne gold leaf to the powder room walls,<br />

bringing in hand-wrought texture.<br />

David Papazian<br />

4<br />

5<br />

MERGE TIME PERIODS<br />

Since Huigens loves Mid-century furniture, it might have been<br />

tempting to outfit the entire home with a sea of Saarinen<br />

tables and Hans Wegner chairs. But by combining pieces<br />

from different time periods, Simon introduces contrast, which<br />

fosters interest and helps the eye move easily around the room.<br />

HANG MEANINGFUL ART AND DISPLAY FAVORITE<br />

COLLECTIONS<br />

Simon and Huigens made sure to choose art and accessories<br />

that would resonate. In the powder room, a small print evokes<br />

a memory of a trip Huigens took to France with her best friend.<br />

In the den, an antique clock from a family collection, shown<br />

here, has pride of place.<br />

50 <strong>1859</strong> OREGON’S MAGAZINE JANUARY | FEBRUARY <strong>2018</strong>


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home + design<br />

Channel Great Gatsby Glamour<br />

Simon sourced the San Pietro sconces over the<br />

fireplace from San Francisco designer Jiun Ho. The<br />

larger San Pietro pendant, shown here, has faceted<br />

glass that lends a bit of opulence and will cast a warm<br />

and sparkling glow to any room at night.<br />

jiunho.com<br />

The Britain-based paint and paper company Farrow &<br />

Ball has a reputation for manufacturing paint colors and<br />

wallpaper patterns that work well with historic properties.<br />

All of the wallpapers, including the Lotus design in the<br />

Huigens’ den, are fabricated using traditional blockand-trough<br />

printing techniques, which gives the paper a<br />

tactile quality perfect for creating cozy rooms.<br />

us.farrow-ball.com<br />

Conjure the everyday glamour of French cafés at<br />

your kitchen counter with Rejuvenation’s Nicolle<br />

Counter Stool, a factory-style stool first designed<br />

in the 1930s and still produced in France today.<br />

Made of powder-coated steel, it comes in a<br />

variety of finishes, including a classic Parisian<br />

red, and can be used indoors or out.<br />

rejuvenation.com<br />

52 <strong>1859</strong> OREGON’S MAGAZINE JANUARY | FEBRUARY <strong>2018</strong>


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mind + body<br />

Not So Par<br />

for the Course<br />

Debby King and Nancy Woodke<br />

change the face of Eugene golf<br />

written by Sheila G. Miller<br />

photography by Kjersten Hellis<br />

IT STARTED SIMPLY. In the wake of her husband’s death in<br />

2008, Nancy Woodke decided it was time to get her golf game<br />

back. The standout high school and college golfer called on<br />

Debby King, who has been the general manager and head golf<br />

pro at Laurelwood Golf Course in Eugene since 2008.<br />

Since then, King and Woodke have started their own golf<br />

school, competed in dozens of tournaments and done their part<br />

to end golf’s boys club reputation.<br />

The sport is not new to these women.<br />

King started playing golf while at a swim practice at age 16—<br />

not much interested in swimming, she saw a group hitting golf<br />

balls, put a towel around herself and took her first golf swing in<br />

a bathing suit.<br />

“I knew that was what I wanted to do from day one,” she said.<br />

‘I wanted to be a golf pro.”<br />

She played in college, learned to teach the game from a<br />

legendary golf instructor, and played on several mini-tours and<br />

in a few LPGA tournaments before turning to coaching, first<br />

at University of Memphis and then at the University of Notre<br />

Dame (“The coldest place I’ve ever lived.”)<br />

Woodke grew up in the area, and remains a kindergarten<br />

teacher in the Eugene School District.<br />

“I got addicted to golf because it was the hardest sport I’d<br />

ever done. It became a passion almost instantly,” she said. “It<br />

was something where I kept improving a little bit. … It’s given<br />

me way more than I could ever give back.”<br />

When, after raising a family and spending a couple decades<br />

away from the links, she returned to the sport, it wasn’t easy.<br />

“Golf isn’t like riding a bike. You can stop riding a bike for five<br />

years and get right back on,” King said. “It was really hard for<br />

her because she had played at such a high level. … To be able<br />

to come back and get her LPGA teaching card was a big deal.”<br />

After moving to Eugene in the mid-2000s to be near her<br />

ailing parents, King discovered Laurelwood Golf Course and<br />

networked her way into a job, eventually taking over as the<br />

general manager and head golf pro.<br />

“What she won’t tell you is, I grew up here, and Laurelwood<br />

was like a daisy farm. It was one of the worst golf courses<br />

around,” Woodke said. “And it was all guys. The only kids who<br />

played there were high schools. Since Debby has been there,<br />

we’ve started teaching women and couples and kids. It’s a huge<br />

transformation from just the guys beer-drinking, to now a<br />

family and kids place.”<br />

For the first seven months King was at the course, she said,<br />

she never saw another woman or children. Today there are<br />

more than 200 kids taking lessons there.<br />

“I was met with a little bit of reluctance from the men’s club,<br />

but it didn’t take long,” King said. “All you have to do is beat<br />

them at playing golf.”<br />

But while they were already breaking ground as one of the<br />

few clubs in the state with two female golf pros, the pair wasn’t<br />

finished. They purchased a property adjacent to Laurelwood<br />

and built Kingdom of Golf out of the home—complete with<br />

a backyard putting green, bunkers and target greens. The duo<br />

lives upstairs.<br />

The golf school offers private lessons and group packages, in<br />

which visitors from all over the country stay in the downstairs<br />

area of the home, receive instruction, play courses and<br />

sometimes even hit up a Ducks football game.<br />

King still competes, usually in about a dozen tournaments<br />

and pro-ams each year. “I want to keep my competitive edge,”<br />

she said.<br />

But that’s not the only way the duo keeps fit. They do CrossFit, a<br />

competitive interval and strength-training program. Kingdom of<br />

Golf’s downstairs includes a golf studio with workout equipment<br />

designed to help students learn golf-specific CrossFit workouts.<br />

“We do a lot of workouts that touch golf muscles,” King said.<br />

“Golf is athletic. Tiger Woods changed that image.”<br />

And at the end of the day, just golfing the hilly, nine-hole<br />

Laurelwood course is a workout in itself.<br />

“This is not just a little jaunt,” King said. “We call it cardio<br />

golf. You are definitely breathing heavy.”<br />

54 <strong>1859</strong> OREGON’S MAGAZINE JANUARY | FEBRUARY <strong>2018</strong>


mind + body<br />

Debby King<br />

Age: 58<br />

Born: Baltimore, Maryland<br />

Residence: Eugene, Oregon<br />

WORKOUT<br />

Cross-Fit 3 times a week,<br />

including golf specific exercises<br />

and general conditioning.<br />

NUTRITION<br />

+Most anything gluten-free<br />

+Creative smoothies<br />

+Clean foods<br />

+Mostly proteinv<br />

INSPIRATION<br />

Life is short; watching my family<br />

members die of cancer right in<br />

a row inspires me to be healthy,<br />

enjoy life and find a fun way to<br />

make a living.<br />

Nancy Woodke<br />

Age: 58<br />

Born: Eugene, Oregon<br />

Residence: Eugene, Oregon<br />

WORKOUT<br />

From the time I was 12 years<br />

old fitness has been a part of<br />

my daily routine: running, core<br />

work, strength and flexibility.<br />

It was part of what I did to<br />

improve as a competitive<br />

golfer; it was my sanity break<br />

as a mom. A year ago I had<br />

a health issue interrupt my<br />

fitness lifestyle and I had<br />

to take a break. I am just<br />

now working back into light<br />

workouts up to 5 days a week:<br />

cardio (usually elliptical), light<br />

weights, core work, stretching<br />

and flexibility.<br />

NUTRITION<br />

I eat a balanced diet with<br />

emphasis on maintaining a<br />

steady level of energy.<br />

+Lots of protein, veggies, fruit<br />

and healthy fats<br />

+Nuts fruit and veggies as<br />

snacks<br />

+Occational dark chocolate,<br />

otherwise no candy and no<br />

chips.<br />

+Gluten-free and very little<br />

processed food<br />

INSPIRATION<br />

An intense desire to be my<br />

best “right now.” It looks<br />

different from day to day,<br />

year to year, even moment<br />

to moment, but a focus on<br />

doing my best and instilling<br />

that in my students is my<br />

driving force.<br />

CLOCKWISE, FROM TOP Debby King and<br />

Nancy Woodke are two of the few female<br />

golf pros in Oregon. They teach golf lessons<br />

to golfers of all ages. The pair’s Kingdom of<br />

Golf offers private and group lessons. King’s<br />

work at Laurelwood Golf Course has made<br />

it more inviting.<br />

JANUARY | FEBRUARY <strong>2018</strong> <strong>1859</strong> OREGON’S MAGAZINE 55


artist in residence<br />

Woody Guthrie’s<br />

Masterpiece<br />

For one wild month, Woody Guthrie<br />

was paid to write songs about the<br />

Pacific Northwest<br />

written by Isaac Peterson<br />

The Grand Coulee Dam as Guthrie saw it in 1941.<br />

BIOGRAPHIES OF WOODY GUTHRIE<br />

sometimes include the footnote that he visited<br />

Oregon for a month in the spring of 1941 and wrote<br />

a few songs about the Pacific Northwest during his<br />

brief stay, notably “Roll on, Columbia.”<br />

New research by Bonneville Power Administration<br />

Library & Visitor Center archivist Libby Burke<br />

and 26 Songs in 30 Days, a book by Greg Vandy,<br />

reveal Guthrie’s month-long sojourn in the Pacific<br />

Northwest was more than just a footnote to his<br />

art and legacy. It may have been the folksinger’s<br />

defining moment.<br />

The story begins sometime in the early ’80s when<br />

Bill Murlin was reviewing an old 16mm film in the<br />

Bonneville Power Administration’s media office in<br />

Portland. The film, called “The Columbia,” had been<br />

completed by the BPA in 1948 to communicate the<br />

benefits of hydroelectric power. It was unusual for<br />

a government informational reel. Director Stephen<br />

Kahn’s luminous black and white photography, set to<br />

a sweeping score of orchestral music and folk songs,<br />

revealed the Columbia River as the living heart of<br />

the Pacific Northwest. Murlin knew he had found<br />

the centerpiece for the anniversary celebration.<br />

When the credits began to roll, Murlin had<br />

a moment of revelation that must have been<br />

akin to discovering a Renaissance masterpiece<br />

at a garage sale: Woody Guthrie was credited<br />

as the songwriter. Murlin was an accomplished<br />

folksinger in his own right, and his curiosity was<br />

piqued. He knew federal processes would have<br />

required Guthrie to work as a salaried employee<br />

in order to join the project. Had Guthrie worked<br />

for the federal government under the auspices of<br />

the Bonneville Power Administration? If so, what<br />

were his job responsibilities? The songs used in<br />

the film were well-known and included “Roll on,<br />

Columbia,” but Murlin guessed that learning the<br />

details of Guthrie’s work on the film might reveal<br />

new songs no one had heard. Guthrie was<br />

an incredibly prolific songwriter, creating<br />

more than 1,400 songs in his lifetime.<br />

56 <strong>1859</strong> OREGON’S MAGAZINE JANUARY | FEBRUARY <strong>2018</strong>


artist in residence<br />

“The Pacific Northwest is one of my favorite spots in this world, and I’m one walker that’s stood<br />

way up and looked way down acrost aplenty of pretty sights in all their veiled and nakedest seasons.<br />

Thumbing it. Hitching it. Walking and talking it. Chalking it. Marking it. Sighting it and hearing it.<br />

Seeing and feeling and breathing and smelling it in, sucking it down me, rubbing it in all the pores of<br />

my skin, and the winds between my eyes knocking honey in my comb.<br />

The Pacific Northwest has got mineral mountains. It’s got chemical deserts. It’s got rough run canyons.<br />

It’s got sawblade snowcaps. It’s got ridges of nine kinds of brown, hills out of six colors of green, ridges<br />

five shades of shadows, and stickers the eight tones of hell.<br />

I pulled my shoes on and walked out of every one of these Pacific Northwest Mountain towns drawing<br />

pictures in my mind and listening to poems and songs and words faster to come and dance in my ears<br />

than I could ever get them wrote down ...”<br />

—Woody Guthrie<br />

Bonneville Power Administration<br />

JANUARY | FEBRUARY <strong>2018</strong> <strong>1859</strong> OREGON’S MAGAZINE 57


artist in residence<br />

Bonneville Power Administration<br />

FROM LEFT Woody Guthrie in 1943, a couple years after<br />

leaving Oregon and just before his service in World War II. The original form for<br />

Guthrie’s emergency appointment as information consultant. It shows his yearly salary,<br />

$3,200, of which he received one month’s pay during the duration of the appointment.<br />

Murlin called the U.S. Office of Personnel Management<br />

and learned Guthrie had indeed been a salaried employee<br />

and what’s more, the office had his employment records—in<br />

a cardboard box trundling down a conveyor belt to the inhouse<br />

industrial shredder. Should they pull them from the line<br />

if they hadn’t yet been destroyed?<br />

Guthrie’s federal employment documents, rescued by<br />

Murlin from the shredder, tell a strange story. In early<br />

1941, Stephen Kahn was a BPA filmmaker who wanted a<br />

relatively unknown folksinger, Woodrow Wilson Guthrie, to<br />

write music for his new informational film on the benefits<br />

of hydroelectric power that had been commissioned by<br />

the government. Working from his Portland office, Kahn<br />

carefully navigated the labyrinth of budget requisitions and<br />

federal approvals he would need in order to get a salaried<br />

line-item for a songwriter.<br />

By April 1941, Guthrie was nearly destitute. He had<br />

abruptly left his job at a radio station in New York, refusing<br />

on principle to sing what the advertisers wanted, and had<br />

dragged his young wife and three children across the country<br />

to L.A. Desperate and running out of money, he decided to<br />

deliver documents to Kahn in person at the BPA offices.<br />

“He just showed up at the door of the BPA in Portland,<br />

looking for the job he’d heard about,” archivist Libby Burke<br />

said. “He was living in extreme poverty with his family, and just<br />

the possibility of a job was better than their life in California.”<br />

Kahn took Guthrie into the office and set up an emergency<br />

appointment for the folk singer. The emergency appointment<br />

process was a way of mobilizing extra resources in times of<br />

natural disaster; Kahn had used it to employ a destitute musician<br />

from Oklahoma. Guthrie’s term as “information consultant” was<br />

thirty days. Guthrie was required to account for his hours every<br />

day, so he decided to simply write one song a day, returning to<br />

the Portland office every evening to type up the lyrics<br />

on a typewriter and dutifully perform the music for a<br />

wax-cylinder recording device.<br />

58 <strong>1859</strong> OREGON’S MAGAZINE JANUARY | FEBRUARY <strong>2018</strong>


artist in residence<br />

He was supplied a car and a chauffeur and every day drove<br />

along the path of the Columbia, looking out at the countryside,<br />

the Grand Coulee Dam and the Bonneville Dam, talking with<br />

rural farmers whose economic outlook had radically improved<br />

because of hydroelectric power, drawing and writing songs. In<br />

the afternoon, he’d work out his compositions on guitar and<br />

then return to the office to record and transcribe them.<br />

Kahn’s emergency intervention had given the tumbleweed<br />

troubador a brief respite from his troubles, and provided<br />

a modicum of stability for the Guthrie family in the little<br />

apartment they had rented on Portland’s Southeast 92nd Street.<br />

In Guthrie’s stormy life it was a month of calm and security.<br />

The verdant land surrounding the Columbia in the gentle<br />

warmth of spring seemed like Eden, and during this time he<br />

wrote a song that many view as his masterpiece: “Pastures of<br />

Plenty,” about poor migrant farm workers leaving Oklahoma to<br />

look for work picking fruit in the Pacific Northwest.<br />

It’s clearly drawn from Grapes of Wrath, a book Guthrie read<br />

for the first time in Portland (Kahn had given it to him), but<br />

the fact that he wrote it while tromping around Oregon in the<br />

springtime reveals the masterpiece in a new light.<br />

He’s using what he learned from his time with the migrant<br />

workers in California,” Burke said. “In the song ‘Pastures of<br />

Plenty,’ he’s also singing about the Pacific Northwest. He’s<br />

singing about the part of the country that we live in. The<br />

pastures of plenty are real, and the hope in that song springs<br />

out of the hardships that working people endured, that brought<br />

them here for a chance at a better life.”<br />

Guthrie left Portland three days early thanks to vacation<br />

days he’d earned as “information consultant.” He picked up<br />

his check and hit the road—without his wife and family—and<br />

his first marriage had disintegrated by the time he hitchhiked<br />

back to New York. Back in New York he joined the Almanac<br />

Singers, then served as a Merchant Marine in World War II.<br />

In the ’50s he was diagnosed with Huntington’s Disease, a fatal<br />

genetic brain disorder that left him without the ability to speak<br />

for fifteen years before his death in 1967.<br />

Years later, when Murlin found a letter from Guthrie noting<br />

he had written twenty-six songs for the government, he set<br />

out to find them. An article on Murlin’s discovery sparked a<br />

nationwide search for the missing songs, which would become<br />

known collectively as the Columbia River Songbook. Guthrie’s<br />

original wax cylinders he’d recorded at the Portland office<br />

were long gone, but every day Murlin unwrapped packages<br />

sent to him from dusty New York attics, forgotten studio<br />

archives, and the storage spaces of Guthrie’s friends and<br />

relatives. Gradually Murlin found all the songs. The BPA, in<br />

collaboration with The Smithsonian and The Woody Guthrie<br />

Center in Oklahoma, released the Columbia River Collection<br />

in 1988 with an accompanying book of music called the<br />

Columbia River Songbook.<br />

In 2017, Murlin released a new edition of the songbook to<br />

honor the seventy-fifth anniversary of the Columbia River<br />

Songs. Along with Joe Seamons, he created a new recording<br />

containing all twenty-six songs for the first time, sung by<br />

Northwest artists.<br />

Wheat harvest in Eastern<br />

Oregon, 1940. The dams<br />

created hydroelectric<br />

power and irrigation in the<br />

area, which allowed for<br />

agricultural development.<br />

Guthrie’s task was to<br />

communicate the benefits<br />

of hydroelectric power for<br />

the common good.<br />

Bonneville Power Administration<br />

60 <strong>1859</strong> OREGON’S MAGAZINE JANUARY | FEBRUARY <strong>2018</strong>


CAN YOU<br />

BELIEVE<br />

WHAT YOU<br />

READ?<br />

Sources: 2016 Survey, Pew Research Center; GfK MRI, Spring 2016.<br />

MAGAZINE<br />

MEDIA<br />

Better. Believe It.<br />

With fake news leaving most Americans<br />

confused about even the basic facts,<br />

magazine media keeps it real. Whether in<br />

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Being real matters. That’s a fact.<br />

#BelieveMagMedia | BelieveMagMedia.com


STARTUP 64<br />

WHAT’S GOING UP 66<br />

Peter Mahar<br />

WHAT I’M WORKING ON 68<br />

MY WORKSPACE 70<br />

GAME CHANGER 72<br />

pg. 70<br />

Anna’s Bridal and Bridal Bliss are a family affair.


On exhibit at the Oregon Historical Society<br />

<strong>Jan</strong>uary 15 – June 24, <strong>2018</strong><br />

ohs.org<br />

NEW EXHIBIT<br />

December 15 through april 30<br />

PHOTOGRAPHS FROM THE GAY RODEO<br />

This is a program of<br />

Made possible by<br />

and The National Endowment for the Arts.<br />

This project has been funded in part by the Oregon Heritage Commission,<br />

Oregon Parks and Recreation Department.<br />

Blake Little, Bareback Bronc Riding,<br />

San Diego, California, 1992, Archival<br />

pigment printed on Epson exhibition<br />

fiber paper, 15 x 15 inches. © Blake Little 59800 South Highway 97, Bend | 541-382-4754 | www.highdesertmuseum.org


startup<br />

Changing the World,<br />

One Sip at a Time<br />

Making milk from spent grain<br />

written by Mackenzie Wilson<br />

photography by Jenn Redd<br />

EARLY RETIREMENT—IT’S THE DREAM that keeps<br />

most entrepreneurs slogging through the late nights and early<br />

mornings of hustle, and it was at Sarah Pool’s fingertips. After<br />

selling her company, Pacific Superfoods Snacks, in 2014, the<br />

33-year-old could have booked a one-way ticket to a tropical<br />

destination far from her home in Bend. Pool did consider a<br />

permanent vacation from entrepreneurship, but passion pushed<br />

her in a different direction. “At the end of the day, I think I’m<br />

driven,” Pool said, “and what everybody in the world is driven by<br />

is using the most out of this life we have and the opportunity to<br />

make an impact.”<br />

Pool stayed on for three years as CEO with Made in Nature,<br />

the company that bought Pacific Superfood Snacks. She<br />

successfully bridged the perilous gap of bringing her original<br />

product, kale chips, into a highly saturated market. Pool<br />

still remembers the instant rejection she received when she<br />

first asked retailers to carry her product. “We couldn’t have<br />

predicted that two other local kale chip companies launched<br />

the week before ours. Not only were they the first to gain shelf<br />

space in a very small set, but they also had better packaging and<br />

significantly more capital behind them,” Pool said. “But we had<br />

already quit our ‘day jobs’ so our only option was to find a way.<br />

It stoked our fire like never before.”<br />

Not one to shy away from a challenge, Pool is leading a new<br />

charge as the founder of Canvas, a beverage company producing<br />

what she calls a one-of-a-kind product—barley milk. “There’s no<br />

barley milk that exists,” she said. “It’s so funny because for us in<br />

food, we want to be super disruptive and come out with a brandnew<br />

product that’s never existed before. … But people are like,<br />

‘Barley milk? We don’t get it at all.’” Similar to other non-dairy<br />

milk substitutes like rice milk, soy milk or almond milk, Pool<br />

believes it won’t take long for barley milk to find its place on the<br />

shelf. “We’re very data driven, we’ve done a ton of interviews and<br />

surveys with customers directly and in terms of the liquid itself,<br />

people love it,” she said.<br />

Canvas produces barley milk from spent grain from breweries.<br />

“In the beer-brewing process the barley grain goes into the lauter<br />

Sarah Pool and her new line<br />

of barley milk products.<br />

tun and all of the starch is extracted to go into making the beer,”<br />

Pool said. “What’s left over is the nutrient-rich fiber and protein<br />

and it’s absolutely beautiful.”<br />

Pool says spent grain isn’t used in the final beer product because<br />

of its fibrous and dense properties. Traditionally, it either goes to<br />

waste or brewers sell it as livestock feed. “Eight billion pounds of<br />

spent grain are produced all across the globe annually,” Pool said.<br />

That number convinced her to take action. She and a team of<br />

food scientists and engineers in New York and Belgium created a<br />

process that preserves the grain, upcycling it and giving it a second<br />

life as “saved grain.” “We developed a proprietary lactic<br />

acid fermentation process that basically unlocks the<br />

nutritional goodness and preserves the grain to keep it<br />

from going to waste,” Pool said.<br />

64 <strong>1859</strong> OREGON’S MAGAZINE JANUARY | FEBRUARY <strong>2018</strong>


startup<br />

Canvas is partnering with Anheuser Busch to transform its<br />

spent grain into barley milk. “AB InBev produces approximately<br />

3 billion pounds of spent grain annually, so the partnership made<br />

perfect sense from a supply and resources perspective, but most<br />

importantly, we’re aligned in our dream of creating a better future<br />

on a global scale,” Pool said.<br />

Canvas is 100 percent plant-based, dairy-free and contains no<br />

refined sugars or artificial ingredients. The barley milk comes in<br />

artisanal flavors like Cold Brew Latte, Matcha, Cocoa, Original<br />

and Turmeric Chai. “I think of it as the perfect breakfast because<br />

you’re getting 13 grams of fiber and about 10 grams of complete<br />

plant protein,” Pool said. She and her team are “pretty fanatical”<br />

about plant-based food in general, but they don’t expect everyone<br />

to adopt an entirely plant-based diet—they’re striving to provide<br />

people with more options. Ultimately, Canvas hopes to make a<br />

global impact. “In the core of who we are as a company, we believe<br />

adopting more of a plant-based diet and upcycling food waste are<br />

really important in terms of long-term solutions to address climate<br />

change and global warming,” Pool said.<br />

Canvas currently has a team of fewer than five people. Pool said<br />

Canvas plans to go national with the brand and significantly grow<br />

its team in <strong>2018</strong>. Although she’s been named Entrepreneur of the<br />

Year in Bend and has one successful acquisition under her belt,<br />

Pool said her new company is a fresh start, a blank canvas. “It’s<br />

starting all over from the ground up and having to prove ourselves<br />

again,” she said. “But we thrive on that type of pressure and there’s<br />

no greater feeling than taking something from ideation to reality<br />

that can positively impact others’ lives.”<br />

JANUARY | FEBRUARY <strong>2018</strong> <strong>1859</strong> OREGON’S MAGAZINE 65


what’s going up?<br />

Date Night<br />

New restaurants around Oregon<br />

written by Jen Stevenson<br />

DATE NIGHT REACHES new heights in <strong>2018</strong>, thanks<br />

to these three much-buzzed-about romantic<br />

hotspots. They’re perfect for dinner for two, or a<br />

room with a view.<br />

BEND<br />

In Bend, Bos Taurus steakhouse has quickly<br />

established itself as one of downtown’s top<br />

tables, wooing diners with briny Oregon<br />

oysters, roasted bone marrow, smoky blue<br />

cheese-smothered wedge salads, and for the<br />

couple with a serious appetite, a 36-ounce<br />

Tomahawk rib-eye for two.<br />

bostaurussteak.com<br />

MCMINNVILLE<br />

Historic downtown McMinnville’s reputation as a<br />

bona fide wine country destination continues to grow<br />

with the imminent arrival of the luxurious Atticus Hotel,<br />

featuring thirty-six spacious studios and suites outfitted<br />

with locally crafted furnishings and art, Pendleton robes,<br />

and Flag & Wire coffee. Slated for a spring opening, the<br />

Atticus raises the bar with a full-service concierge, Tesla<br />

charging stations, and Third n Tasty, sister restaurant of<br />

chef John Gorham’s popular Portland eateries.<br />

atticushotel.com<br />

PORTLAND<br />

In Portland, those in the know waited with<br />

bated breath for James Beard-nominated chef<br />

Trent Pierce to reopen his upscale prix fixe<br />

fish house Roe in its new downtown location<br />

in early December. Not one to disappoint,<br />

Pierce’s menu tempts with charcoal-grilled<br />

Kona abalone, porcini-crusted walu, and for<br />

those with seats at the Schnitz, an elegantly<br />

expedited three-”part” pre-theater menu.<br />

roepdx.rest<br />

The Atticus Hotel is raising<br />

the bar in McMinnville.<br />

66 <strong>1859</strong> OREGON’S MAGAZINE JANUARY | FEBRUARY <strong>2018</strong>


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what i’m working on<br />

A Long-Term Look<br />

Nonprofit studies violence and relationships over decades<br />

interview by Mackenzie Wilson<br />

The Oregon Social Learning Center is dedicated to using scientific<br />

research to help strengthen relationships in children, adolescents,<br />

families and communities. Using data collected from analyzing subjects<br />

over short- and long-term studies, the Eugene-based nonprofit helps<br />

make connections between the way people interact and their social and<br />

psychological well-being. The center is in the midst of a two-decade<br />

study revolving around young men and their romantic partners. We<br />

spoke with Dr. Joann Wu Shortt, a senior research scientist at OSLC,<br />

about the impact of the study.<br />

Why does OSLC focus on studies<br />

surrounding relationships?<br />

Relationships matter across the<br />

lifespan. We seek close proximity and<br />

contact with others, which promotes<br />

our well-being and safety and helps<br />

us cope with stress. The family<br />

remains a central relationship context<br />

that shapes our development, and<br />

difficulties within relationships can<br />

signal developmental risk.<br />

OSLC is in the midst of a long-term<br />

study that’s assessing young men<br />

and their romantic relationships.<br />

What’s the significance of this study<br />

and when did it start?<br />

The Oregon Youth Study-Couples<br />

study began more than fifteen<br />

years ago, when the OYS men were<br />

young adults, to examine the couple<br />

relationship quality, specifically<br />

intimate partner violence, between<br />

these men and their romantic<br />

partners and spouses. This study<br />

is one of the most comprehensive<br />

longitudinal examinations of physical<br />

and psychological intimate partner<br />

violence that has been conducted<br />

to date. Our recent work involves<br />

the children of the OYS men and<br />

the children’s biological mothers<br />

(even if the couple has separated),<br />

to examine the impact of child<br />

exposure to intimate partner violence<br />

and parent-to-child aggression on<br />

child adjustment.<br />

How do you think the data collected<br />

from OSLC’s research can help people<br />

improve their own relationships?<br />

Although intimate partner violence has<br />

long been recognized as a complex and<br />

significant public health problem, the<br />

existing intervention programs have<br />

demonstrated limited effectiveness<br />

in reducing intimate partner violence.<br />

The OYS-Couples study increases<br />

the scientific understanding of the<br />

developmental pathways, risk factors<br />

and relationship processes involved<br />

in intimate partner violence in order<br />

to inform prevention and intervention<br />

efforts to effectively reduce intimate<br />

partner violence and the costly physical<br />

and psychological consequences for<br />

couples and their children.<br />

How does OSLC select people to be a<br />

part of a long-term study?<br />

At enrollment, the OYS participants<br />

were from at-risk (by virtue of living<br />

in neighborhoods with relatively high<br />

rates of juvenile delinquency) and lower<br />

socioeconomic backgrounds and in the<br />

fourth grade at local public schools.<br />

What has been most surprising about<br />

the study?<br />

Our approach helped us provide<br />

evidence that a significant proportion<br />

of physical and psychological intimate<br />

partner violence in nonclinical young<br />

couples was bidirectional or mutual, with<br />

partners aggressing against each other,<br />

which has increased the recognition of<br />

intimate partner violence as a public<br />

health problem that involves both men<br />

and women, rather than only men. More<br />

injuries occur in couples when physical<br />

intimate partner violence is bidirectional.<br />

One of my most important papers from<br />

this project provided critical information<br />

on the course of intimate partner<br />

violence and indicated notable decreases<br />

in levels of physical intimate partner<br />

violence across adulthood and higher<br />

stability in intimate partner violence for<br />

men who stayed with the same partners<br />

relative to men who changed partners.<br />

Intimate partner violence may be<br />

prevented by addressing the behavior of<br />

both partners and relationship patterns,<br />

such as coercion and escalation in the<br />

context of conflict.<br />

68 <strong>1859</strong> OREGON’S MAGAZINE JANUARY | FEBRUARY <strong>2018</strong>


H20 TODAY<br />

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Dive into H20 through interactive<br />

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H2O Today is adapted from an exhibition by the American Museum of Natural History, New York.<br />

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my workspace<br />

My Workspace<br />

Better Together<br />

A mother-daughter power team<br />

makes wedding dreams come true<br />

written by Sydney Padgett<br />

photography by Peter Mahar<br />

On a bitter, rainy Oregon day,<br />

the warmth of Anna’s Bridal<br />

spreads across an entire Lake<br />

Oswego street corner. Intricate,<br />

white dresses fill the shop, and<br />

Anna Totonchy’s contagious<br />

laugh rings through the space.<br />

On the other side of a wall of<br />

dreamlike gowns, Totonchy’s<br />

daughter, Nora Sheils, presents<br />

color swatches to an eager<br />

bride. Together, Sheils’ wedding<br />

planning company, Bridal Bliss,<br />

and Anna’s Bridal exude an<br />

unparalleled energy of love and<br />

passion—two essential elements<br />

of any dream wedding.<br />

At its inception, Anna’s Bridal was no<br />

more than a humble home alteration shop.<br />

Almost twenty-five years later, Totonchy<br />

and Sheils run their separate businesses<br />

out of one stunning storefront in Lake<br />

Oswego. “It started from a little bit and<br />

it got bigger and bigger,” Totonchy said.<br />

“Lots of patience and lots of love.”<br />

When Anna came to the United States<br />

from Iraq in 1976, she never expected to<br />

work with wedding dresses. But decades<br />

of hard work brewed an unexpected<br />

passion and highly sought-after alteration<br />

skills. “She is so good at what she does,”<br />

Sheils said. “She is an alterations expert.<br />

… She is truly an angel (crossed) with an<br />

energizer bunny. She has so much energy<br />

she cannot sit.”<br />

70 <strong>1859</strong> OREGON’S MAGAZINE JANUARY | FEBRUARY <strong>2018</strong>


my workspace<br />

“I see the bride happy. And if she is not<br />

happy, we make her happy,” Totonchy<br />

said. “I have been in the business for<br />

over twenty-four years and I know.”<br />

Indeed, beyond alterations, Totonchy<br />

offers a smile and an inexplicable ability<br />

to find the perfect dress for her clients.<br />

Sheils grew up surrounded by dresses<br />

and brides. “I got the bug for weddings<br />

and ever since, I have always been<br />

enamored with them,” she explained. At<br />

22, she started her own wedding planning<br />

company and has since led her Bridal Bliss<br />

team to unprecedented success. This year,<br />

she was named Portland’s Best Wedding<br />

Planner for the eighth year in a row.<br />

JANUARY | FEBRUARY <strong>2018</strong> <strong>1859</strong> OREGON’S MAGAZINE 71


game changer<br />

For the Love of Art<br />

Funding passion projects across Oregon<br />

written and photographed by Brittany Norton<br />

THE FIRST THING visitors notice when they walk into the Bill<br />

Will: Fun House art gallery is a large map of the United States<br />

hanging on the wall. The map is fashioned from acrylic mirrors<br />

and brightly reflects everything in the room. The piece seems to<br />

call for a moment of self-reflection as viewers gaze into it and<br />

see their own faces looking back at them. Farther into the Fun<br />

House there are more messages to be found. Art pieces crafted<br />

from tiny plastic soldiers, Oster bread makers powering felt toy<br />

missiles, papier-mâché heads and one garish yellow foam finger<br />

spark themes of war, conformity and prosperity.<br />

This eccentric art gallery is one example of the projects the<br />

Oregon Community Foundation helps fund with its Creative<br />

Heights Initiative. The initiative provides monetary support for<br />

passion projects by artists and other creatives across the state of<br />

Oregon. Since its inception in 2014, the initiative has distributed<br />

more than fifty grants and $4 million. The initiative was meant<br />

to end in 2017 after four years, but OCF has decided to extend<br />

it another three years.<br />

With Creative Heights, the Oregon Community Foundation<br />

found a niche in supporting new ideas.<br />

“One thing that really resonated with us was that need to try<br />

new things. We had folks telling us they wanted to do more than<br />

The Nutcracker. But it’s risky, trying new things. Sometimes<br />

audiences might not be as interested in it, and there was a need<br />

for risk capital,” said Michelle Boss Barba, program officer for<br />

arts and culture at the foundation.<br />

According to the Bill Will catalogue that provides information<br />

on the gallery, Will, a contemporary artist, wanted to create an<br />

interactive art experience that accumulated some of his pieces<br />

from the past ten years.<br />

“Fun House hooks the viewer with his inventions, which<br />

serve as decoys for expressing much deeper and more serious<br />

concerns about the social, political, and economic culture<br />

of the United States,” writes gallery director Linda Tesner in<br />

the catalogue.<br />

Lewis & Clark College received $35,000 from OCF in 2015<br />

to help reconstruct Bill Will’s art pieces for the Fun House.<br />

They are displayed in the Ronna and Eric Hoffman Gallery of<br />

Contemporary Art on campus.<br />

Boss Barba said the Creative Heights initiative gives artists<br />

an opportunity to achieve long-term goals with their work, and<br />

that the care these artists put into the project is clear.<br />

“When someone creates a work, whatever the area is, they are<br />

definitely putting their heart into that. It’s very vulnerable, just<br />

as it is when you fall in love,” she said. “And I think it’s special to<br />

see that love and care that these wonderful creative folks have<br />

for the work they do.”<br />

72 <strong>1859</strong> OREGON’S MAGAZINE JANUARY | FEBRUARY <strong>2018</strong>


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Romance<br />

on the road<br />

Oregon hotels’ best romantic packages<br />

written by Sheila G. Miller<br />

OREGON IS FILLED with romance. Parts of this state are dark<br />

and misty, others bright and cold. The scenery is so stunning,<br />

there isn’t much need for the manufactured machinations of candy<br />

hearts and carnation bouquets. Still, it doesn’t hurt to add a little<br />

something to the background—it could be just what you need to<br />

stoke the fire and heat up the passion.<br />

Black Butte Ranch<br />

There’s an old standby in Central<br />

Oregon that sometimes gets<br />

overlooked by its more modern,<br />

fancy competitors. But Black Butte<br />

Ranch is old-school Central Oregon, done<br />

just right.<br />

Black Butte has all the necessary components<br />

for a great romantic weekend—the mountain<br />

views, the quiet serenity, the horseback rides. The<br />

ranch offers an extensive list of spa treatments,<br />

including a side-by-side massage. And Black<br />

Butte is a perfect jumping-off point for a weekend<br />

of year-round outdoor adventure. Hoodoo is just<br />

up the road, so a ski day is within reach. There are<br />

endless hiking, biking and other opportunities<br />

similarly nearby.<br />

Beyond the usual joys of Black Butte, the<br />

ranch offers a $59 romance package for any<br />

vacation rental. That package includes a bottle<br />

of champagne and two wine glasses, as well as<br />

some local spa products, a box of truffles and, you<br />

guessed it, rose petals spread just so when you<br />

arrive at your rental.<br />

Don’t doubt the power of rose petals, side-byside<br />

massages and a glass of bubbly enjoyed on the<br />

porch during the sunset—sometimes clichés exist<br />

because they are true.<br />

blackbutteranch.com<br />

74 <strong>1859</strong> OREGON’S MAGAZINE JANUARY | FEBRUARY <strong>2018</strong><br />

Black Butte Ranch is<br />

tucked against the<br />

Cascade Mountains.


1<br />

Best nearby romantic dinner<br />

This one comes with a caveat. First of all,<br />

Kokanee Cafe in Camp Sherman is one of<br />

the best restaurants in Oregon, not just<br />

near Black Butte. But it’s closed in the<br />

winter months. Next up, Cottonwood Cafe<br />

(formerly Jen’s Garden), is a tremendous<br />

restaurant—but the trick is, it’s only<br />

open for breakfast and lunch. So instead<br />

of a romantic dinner, start out your<br />

day with a romantic breakfast and go<br />

from there. Big Tree Benedict, anyone?<br />

(cottonwoodinsisters.com; kokaneecafe.com)<br />

JANUARY | FEBRUARY <strong>2018</strong> <strong>1859</strong> OREGON’S MAGAZINE 75


Best nearby romantic dinner<br />

OK, this will require you entering a<br />

different hotel, which might seem weird.<br />

But just ten-ish blocks away from the<br />

Hotel deLuxe is Departure, which offers up<br />

some of the best, forward-thinking Asian<br />

food in the city. Bonus: If you’re there on<br />

a clear night the view is nigh unbeatable.<br />

For something a little more low key, head<br />

to Clyde Common, a tavern-style spot that<br />

has a tops happy hour. Order the popcorn<br />

and thank me later. (departureportland.<br />

com; clydecommon.com)<br />

Portland’s Hotel deLuxe is all about old Hollywood.<br />

2<br />

Hotel deLuxe<br />

There’s just something about old Hollywood glamour.<br />

It’s everywhere you look at Hotel deLuxe in Portland.<br />

The boutique hotspot in Portland, right in the<br />

bustling urban downtown core, is a great jumpingoff<br />

point for a city date night. It’s also got the kind of amenities<br />

that mean you never have to leave the hotel if you’d rather stay<br />

warm, dry and cozy with your sweetie.<br />

Gracie’s, a popular restaurant with sophisticated American<br />

food, is in the building. Driftwood Room is the kind of dark,<br />

leather-and-wood bar you can melt into for hours of craft<br />

cocktails and old-timey glamour. And the hallways are covered<br />

in Hollywood stills from the height of elegance.<br />

About twice a month, the hotel offers Pop-Up Cinema, free<br />

screenings of old movies with cocktails and snacks available for<br />

purchase. The events are held in the private Screening Room,<br />

which has a 16-foot screen and gold-leaf ceilings—this is no joke.<br />

To up your romantic quotient, have a pint of Salt & Straw ice<br />

cream delivered to your room. Other amenities include Shinola<br />

bikes ready to help you explore the city, rain or shine. There’s a<br />

pillow menu so you can try out different pillows, even a “spiritual<br />

menu” with religious tomes available for you (there’s also a<br />

spiritual menu for your dog, if he’s on hand—that means pet<br />

psychology and dog massage).<br />

hoteldeluxeportland.com<br />

76 <strong>1859</strong> OREGON’S MAGAZINE JANUARY | FEBRUARY <strong>2018</strong>


Westcliff Lodge’s glamp sites<br />

Do you like your romance<br />

with a side of adventure?<br />

Check out the Westcliff<br />

Lodge’s glamping sites.<br />

These platform tents come with a fluffy<br />

bed, furniture, and a serious view of the<br />

Columbia River Gorge.<br />

No chocolate and wine specials here—<br />

instead, there are packages to combine a<br />

stay with a river-rafting trip or windsurfing<br />

lesson. You can head out into the gorge for<br />

a day of thrilling experiences, then return<br />

to the creature comforts that make for a<br />

romantic evening. Bonus: the lodge and<br />

glamping sites are just 45 minutes from<br />

Mount Hood, and the property is filled<br />

with greenery and rock walls, with nooks<br />

and crannies along trails that are perfect<br />

for stealing a kiss.<br />

The glamping sites are only available<br />

during the warmer months.<br />

westclifflodge.com<br />

3<br />

Westcliff Lodge’s glamp<br />

sites add some ritz<br />

to regular camping.<br />

Best nearby romantic dinner<br />

In Hood River, go classic farm-to-table<br />

with Celilo, a hotspot that offers up the<br />

classics but also manages to get pretty<br />

interesting with options like paella and<br />

cioppino. Hood River is even better for a<br />

good drink—Full Sail Brewing’s pub has a<br />

great deck for watching the windsurfers<br />

on the Columbia River. (celilorestaurant.<br />

com; fullsailbrewing.com)<br />

JANUARY | FEBRUARY <strong>2018</strong> <strong>1859</strong> OREGON’S MAGAZINE 77


Ashland Hills Hotel & Suites<br />

It’s not news to Oregonians that<br />

Ashland is a great stop for a<br />

romantic weekend. The small town<br />

is a charmer, and it has the added<br />

bonus of fulfilling the culture quotient with<br />

the Oregon Shakespeare Festival.<br />

Ashland Hills Hotel & Suites is a classic<br />

spot that has been extensively renovated and<br />

given a very mod feel. The retro furnishings<br />

and the epic lobby décor will put you in the<br />

mood for a Jetsons-like vacation.<br />

The hotel has several packages that will<br />

serve your romantic needs. First, there’s the<br />

Lunar Experience package, which features<br />

the traditional truffles-and-champagne<br />

treats but adds a bouquet of flowers and a<br />

meal voucher to LUNA Cafe + Mercantile.<br />

A Craftmanship Wine and Dine Package<br />

includes wine flights, charcuterie and<br />

cheese boards, and the LUNA meal<br />

voucher. There’s also a package that features<br />

movie tickets, which might be just the thing<br />

to take your romance back to humble high<br />

school beginnings.<br />

ashlandhillshotel.com<br />

4<br />

Retro furnishings are<br />

part of Ashland Hills<br />

Hotel & Suites’ charm.<br />

Best nearby romantic dinner<br />

Ashland is one of those lucky small<br />

towns that overshoots its size with<br />

great restaurants. Larks Restaurant is an<br />

accessible favorite that is fancy but not so<br />

fancy you’ll feel uncomfortable. Another<br />

great option is Alchemy, which goes all in<br />

on the fine dining—steak tartare, pommes<br />

frites, raviolo. (larksrestaurant.com;<br />

alchemyashland.com)<br />

78 <strong>1859</strong> OREGON’S MAGAZINE JANUARY | FEBRUARY <strong>2018</strong>


Cannery Pier Hotel & Spa<br />

Romance always seems pretty<br />

natural at the Oregon Coast.<br />

The chill in the air lends itself to<br />

a heavy blanket and an evening<br />

gazing out at the ocean through the rain. The<br />

Cannery Pier Hotel & Spa in Astoria sits out<br />

in the Columbia River, near where the river<br />

meets the Pacific Ocean. It’s on the site of, you<br />

guessed it, an old fish cannery, and the views<br />

are second-to-none—you can watch barges<br />

and boats pass by from a private balcony.<br />

Every room has a fireplace, and the day<br />

spa has a Finnish sauna, which just feels right<br />

in Astoria.<br />

The hotel offers a romance add-on<br />

package, which includes a couples massage,<br />

champagne and chocolates. But beyond<br />

that, there are plenty of options to spice up<br />

your weekend at Cannery Pier—including a<br />

two-hour sunset cruise that includes wine<br />

and hors d’oeuvres, or a Columbia River Eco<br />

Tour if you find environmentalism sexy. Hey,<br />

it’s Oregon—lots of locals are super into the<br />

environment.<br />

cannerypierhotel.com<br />

Views of the Astoria-Megler Bridge complement the coziness of the hotel.<br />

Best nearby romantic dinner<br />

This one is a no-brainer. Bridgewater<br />

Bistro is nestled right up to the Columbia<br />

River by the Astoria-Megler Bridge<br />

that connects Oregon and Washington.<br />

The views are backed up by a seafoodfilled<br />

menu and great wine. Runner-up<br />

status goes to Baked Alaska, a classy<br />

spot that could win clam chowder wars.<br />

(bridgewaterbistro.com; bakedak.com)<br />

5<br />

JANUARY | FEBRUARY <strong>2018</strong> <strong>1859</strong> OREGON’S MAGAZINE 79


Columbia’s<br />

Tough Mother<br />

Finds Techie<br />

OFFSPRING<br />

Gert Boyle and Columbia Sportswear debut a new face<br />

that loves innovation, warmer months and Zac Efron.<br />

Wall Street digs it.<br />

written by Kevin Max<br />

80 <strong>1859</strong> OREGON’S MAGZAZINE JANUARY | FEBRUARY <strong>2018</strong>


Shauna Intelisano<br />

G<br />

ERT BOYLE PEERS AT ME<br />

over those glasses with a halfbent<br />

smile that could go either<br />

way—up and into a witticism pulled from<br />

her 93 years, or down and into an earnest<br />

assessment of the sportswear industry.<br />

Even through her office’s cluttered<br />

mementos of decades of celebrity—a<br />

photo with Nelson Mandela, another with<br />

Phil Knight, Bill Clinton, the cougar from<br />

her Tough Mother-themed commercials,<br />

a snow globe with tiny boots inside—<br />

Gert Boyle is still at the center of this<br />

iconic Oregon sportswear company that<br />

is transitioning to a warmer and younger<br />

demographic.<br />

“Well, I’m not going anywhere,” Boyle<br />

said. “I’ve been here every single day. I’m<br />

available for anyone who wants to come<br />

in the door.”<br />

Boyle is the founder of the homespun<br />

Oregon company that her father, Paul<br />

Lamfrom, started in Portland in 1938<br />

after the family fled Nazi Germany.<br />

Initially a millinery, the newly named<br />

Columbia Hat Company was a traditional<br />

business in a quickly evolving American<br />

outdoors industry.<br />

JANUARY | FEBRUARY <strong>2018</strong> <strong>1859</strong> OREGON’S MAGAZINE 81


By the time Boyle took the reins of the faltering company<br />

in 1970, she knew something had to be done to broaden<br />

the product portfolio and reduce its seasonality. Innovation<br />

ensued. Columbia began making weatherproof ski jackets<br />

from Gore-Tex in the mid-70s and branded itself as king of<br />

inclement weather.<br />

In the mid-80s, Columbia applied the same zip-out layer<br />

concept from a hunting coat to a ski parka, in what would<br />

become the Bugaboo and the first design coup for the small<br />

sportswear maker. After a long dry spell, Columbia got the<br />

religion of technology and brought the thermal reflective<br />

Omni Heat out of the lab and into its jackets. In 2015,<br />

Columbia crafted a fresh take on a more breathable Gore-<br />

Tex and created a closed-seam thermal system with extreme<br />

water repellency and much-improved breathability. They<br />

called it OutDry Extreme.<br />

“Innovation is the greatest asset that you have and sets you<br />

apart from the next guy,” said Boyle, as feisty as the day she<br />

was born. “Every coat has two sleeves, a front and a back. It’s<br />

how you make it—that’s the difference.”<br />

Enter Michael “Woody” Blackford, who for the past twelve<br />

years has climbed the ladder of Columbia’s design studios to<br />

earn the title of vice president of design and innovation in<br />

2015. If innovation is the differentiator, a lot of responsibility<br />

lies in the hands of Blackford, who now has more than 200<br />

industry patents from his years at Columbia.<br />

“I became focused on four problems: keeping people warm,<br />

dry, cool and protected from the sun,” Blackford said. “I like<br />

to think of us as a world leader in sportswear functionality.”<br />

We’ve been able to make our technology a part of the<br />

aesthetic,” Blackford said in an interview. “In the past, we<br />

tried to make tech invisible to the consumer. Now we have a<br />

different approach and make a garment’s technology obvious<br />

to the consumer.”<br />

This spring, expect to see a glimmering addition to the<br />

product portfolio. Garments made with the new technology<br />

Omni-Shade Sun Deflector will shimmer under the summer<br />

sun as if it were made of a million tiny mirrors. Rather than<br />

consuming and reducing harmful UV rays, Sun Deflector<br />

garments are adorned with outward-facing micro-dots of<br />

titanium dioxide to reflect the sun, and keep its wearer cool<br />

and sun-protected.<br />

columbia brands<br />

1970 Columbia Brand<br />

2000 Columbia acquires footwear darling, Sorel<br />

2003 Columbia acquires rugged outdoor gear maker<br />

Mountain Hardwear<br />

2014 Columbia acquires yoga apparel leader prAna<br />

1970S<br />

Columbia introduces<br />

a new waterproof<br />

tight weave. It works<br />

well as a water<br />

repellent, but earns<br />

lower grades for the<br />

fabric’s breathability.<br />

gore tex<br />

1980<br />

bugaboo<br />

S<br />

The Bugaboo<br />

brought a zip-in/zipout<br />

fleece insulation.<br />

Now consumers<br />

could wear the outer<br />

shell jacket with or<br />

without the fleece,<br />

with three variations<br />

of full parka, shell or<br />

fleece.<br />

82 <strong>1859</strong> OREGON’S MAGAZINE JANUARY | FEBRUARY <strong>2018</strong>


Every coat has two sleeves, a<br />

front and a back. It's how you<br />

make it that's the differencE.<br />

gert boyle<br />

A breathable<br />

warming<br />

technology that<br />

helps regulate<br />

body temperature<br />

with little silver<br />

dots that reflect<br />

heat and retain<br />

your body’s<br />

warmth.<br />

A fused<br />

fabric that is<br />

completely<br />

waterproof<br />

yet breathable.<br />

Used in gloves,<br />

shoes and rain<br />

jackets.<br />

2015outdry<br />

2000<br />

omni heat<br />

S<br />

<strong>2018</strong><br />

omni shade<br />

Sun Deflector,<br />

a new fabric<br />

that turns sun<br />

protection<br />

outward with<br />

millions of dots<br />

of reflective<br />

titanium dioxide.<br />

Used for summer<br />

outdoor apparel.<br />

JANUARY | FEBRUARY <strong>2018</strong> <strong>1859</strong> OREGON’S MAGAZINE 83


and so does wall street<br />

columbia rising<br />

Columbia Stock price +17% year–to-date as of Dec. 6<br />

S&P Apparel Retail Index +0% year–to-date as of Dec. 6<br />

Net sales +2% for 9 months of 2017<br />

Net income +5% for 9 months of 2017<br />

Meanwhile, Columbia’s corporate<br />

strategy is beginning to heat<br />

up on Wall Street. For the first<br />

nine months of 2017, net sales<br />

jumped 2 percent to a record $1.69 billion,<br />

while net income rose 5 percent for the<br />

corresponding period.<br />

CEO Tim Boyle emphasized on a call<br />

with analysts and investors that sales<br />

of footwear, particularly with its subbrand<br />

Sorel, is the shining star; Columbia<br />

acquired the ailing footwear maker Sorel<br />

2000 and yoga brand prAna in 2014.<br />

“The company has been very focused on<br />

the footwear business, the non-winter<br />

footwear business and the sportswear<br />

business,” he said. “If I look out five years,<br />

I think our fastest-growing and largest<br />

category—if we do everything right—will<br />

likely be footwear.”<br />

Investors cheered the diversification<br />

strategy by pushing the stock (COLM:<br />

Nasdaq) up 17% on the year to $70.43 by<br />

December 7 and just shy of its all-time<br />

high of $71.54 from summer 2015. Over<br />

the same period, Nike’s stock rose 14.8%,<br />

Under Armour plunged 54% and the S&P<br />

YTD, 12 / 6<br />

“The company has been very focused on the footwear business,<br />

the non-winter footwear business and the sportswear business.”<br />

CEO Tim Boyle, Oct. 26, 2017<br />

Apparel Retail Index, which includes a<br />

basket of Columbia’s peers, was flat.<br />

Not all financial news has been polar<br />

fleece and puffies, however. Columbia’s<br />

sales in the U.S., its largest market, have<br />

struggled. Perhaps Columbia is a victim<br />

of its own marketing success of its Tough<br />

Tested branding, in which Gert Boyle<br />

subjects her son and their gear to such<br />

rigors as being sent through a car wash<br />

without a car and deserting him on a<br />

frozen mountaintop to fend for himself.<br />

Not surprisingly, Tim Boyle noted on<br />

the conference call, “Most U.S. consumers<br />

would think about us as an outerwear<br />

company,” while drawing attention to<br />

the seasonality of outerwear. Perhaps in<br />

Europe and Asia—where the Columbia<br />

brand is newer—it’s easier for Columbia to<br />

remake its image as a footwear company<br />

that sells more than winter boots for<br />

Arctic explorers.<br />

Boyle confided with analysts that in<br />

summer 2017, Columbia promoted its<br />

European turn-around architect, Franco<br />

Fogliato, to join the team in Portland and<br />

focus on growing the U.S. market.<br />

76.00<br />

71.03<br />

66.67<br />

57.33<br />

48.00<br />

84 <strong>1859</strong> OREGON’S MAGAZINE JANUARY | FEBRUARY <strong>2018</strong>


age of retail disruption<br />

since the dawn of Amazon, the model of<br />

consumer goods companies has been in<br />

flux between traditional brick-and-mortar<br />

retail and the lean<br />

online consumer-direct<br />

Amazon model. In an<br />

August 2017 report from<br />

the World Economic Forum<br />

entitled “Disruption in<br />

consumer industries: How<br />

the traditional operating<br />

model will be turned inside<br />

out,” authors Oliver Wright<br />

from Accenture and Zara<br />

Ingilizian from the World<br />

Economic Forum predict<br />

an industrial upheaval.<br />

In the so-called Fourth<br />

Industrial Revolution, the<br />

companies that survive<br />

the next ten years, they say,<br />

“will be the ones that embrace the Empowered<br />

Consumer and Disruptive Technologies. They will be<br />

data driven and far more externally oriented, working<br />

seamlessly with new partners, on-demand employees<br />

and (as part of an extended workforce) consumers.”<br />

These kinds of prognostications always seem a<br />

bit dire, presenting do-or-die scenarios built on<br />

disruptive trends, that seem stubbornly linear at the<br />

time. Nonetheless, this commentary is not without<br />

merit and bodes well for Columbia’s nimble wholesale<br />

and direct-to-consumer model.<br />

“We really consider ourselves to be a wholesale<br />

business,” CEO Boyle told investors and analysts<br />

in his conference call. Columbia operates 127<br />

retail stores globally, compared with Nike, which<br />

has 1,142, according to Statistica. Adidas, for<br />

measure, has 1,757 venues and is opening 3,000<br />

more in China by 2020. Without the expense of<br />

maintaining and updating a global bricks-andmortar<br />

distribution network, Columbia can<br />

control and change its image at a lower cost<br />

than its brick-bound competitors. It opens<br />

new accounts with displays<br />

in retail chains instead of<br />

building new stores.<br />

Without branded<br />

stores across the globe,<br />

Columbia is finding new ways<br />

to connect with today’s consumers. In<br />

2015, Columbia launched Project CONNECT, a<br />

multimillion-dollar realignment of its business model<br />

“around a ground-led consumer-first philosophy …<br />

brand awareness and sales growth in our wholesale<br />

and direct-to-consumer channels,” Tim Boyle said.<br />

JANUARY | FEBRUARY <strong>2018</strong> <strong>1859</strong> OREGON’S MAGAZINE 85


if i look out five years, i<br />

think our fastest growing<br />

and largest category if we<br />

do everything right will<br />

likely BE footwear.<br />

tim boyle<br />

86 <strong>1859</strong> OREGON’S MAGAZINE JANUARY | FEBRUARY <strong>2018</strong>


connected at the hip<br />

2017 Zac Efron Columbia Sportswear auditioned actor Zac Efron<br />

and his brother on Tough Tested outing with a van-ful of gear.<br />

2017 Chloé Sorel gets chic with a limited-edition Joan of Arctic boot<br />

sold through the retail network of Paris-based luxury fashion house,<br />

Chloé.<br />

2017 Star Wars Columbia hits the big screen with limited edition<br />

jackets that replicate fashion from the Star Wars franchise.<br />

2016 Manchester United Co-branding Columbia teamed up with one<br />

of England’s most storied soccer clubs, Manchester United, as its<br />

official apparel sponsor.<br />

central to this shift is a strategy to<br />

become relevant, even hip, among<br />

younger consumers.<br />

To that end, Columbia Sportswear has<br />

forged savvy partnerships in recent days to<br />

connect with a new generation, for whom<br />

popular endorsement and online shopping<br />

are central. With the Star Wars franchise,<br />

Columbia created garments based on those<br />

worn by Commander Skywalker, Princess Leia<br />

and Captain Solo. Columbia sent Hollywood<br />

hunk du jour, Zac Efron, and his brother on a<br />

gear-testing adventure that might have been<br />

undertaken by Tim Boyle in the past. In a<br />

high-end flair unusual for the brand, Columbia<br />

inserted a $515 Joan of Arctic limited-edition<br />

Sorel boot into the luxury lineup of Chloé, a<br />

chic Paris-based online retailer.<br />

“We’re trying to differentiate ourselves<br />

from the big athletic brands that heavily rely<br />

on athletes to promote their products,” Boyle<br />

said. “But we certainly get the brand awareness<br />

from these unusual connections with popular<br />

brands and personalities.”<br />

Over the course of nearly five decades of<br />

company leadership, Gert Boyle has met<br />

rooms full of personalities. Zac Efron may be<br />

the ephemeral star that brings Columbia to a<br />

new generation, but perhaps no brand, with<br />

the exception of Kentucky Fried Chicken, is<br />

more strongly associated with its founder than<br />

Columbia Sportswear.<br />

Over the next ten years, Columbia’s tough<br />

mother hopes Columbia will stay at the top<br />

of the competitive sportswear industry. “We<br />

will be working on a lot of innovation,” she<br />

promised. “Early to bed, early to rise, work like<br />

hell and advertise.”<br />

JANUARY | FEBRUARY <strong>2018</strong> <strong>1859</strong> OREGON’S MAGAZINE 87<br />

partnerships


A Delicious Art<br />

photography by Emily Green<br />

NOTHING DRESSES UP an occasion like a hand-crafted<br />

cake. At Foxtail Bakeshop in Bend, that’s owner Nickol<br />

Hayden-Cady’s specialty. She landed her first cakedecorating<br />

job at 13, and the rest is history.<br />

With more than twenty years of experience as a cake<br />

decorator and pastry chef, Hayden-Cady and her staff<br />

use innovative methods to make sure their cakes are as<br />

beautiful as they are delicious.<br />

88 <strong>1859</strong> OREGON’S MAGAZINE JANUARY | FEBRUARY <strong>2018</strong>


Cady chose a rustic theme for this cake. Using natural<br />

found objects for final accents, she selected dried<br />

pomegranates, fresh holly, fresh rose hips and real<br />

honeycomb from her own beehive. She began with a<br />

bare, pomegranate layer cake and laid out her accents.<br />

JANUARY | FEBRUARY <strong>2018</strong> <strong>1859</strong> OREGON’S MAGAZINE 89


Cady connected the layered<br />

cakes with whipped buttercream<br />

frosting and fresh caramel.<br />

90 <strong>1859</strong> OREGON’S MAGAZINE JANUARY | FEBRUARY <strong>2018</strong>


When preparing the fondant for<br />

application, Cady uses powdered<br />

sugar to keep the fondant from<br />

sticking to the roller.<br />

JANUARY | FEBRUARY <strong>2018</strong> <strong>1859</strong> OREGON’S MAGAZINE 91


92 <strong>1859</strong> OREGON’S MAGAZINE JANUARY | FEBRUARY <strong>2018</strong><br />

Applying the Playdough-like<br />

fondant is a tricky process of<br />

gently folding and shaping.<br />

Cady cut strips of navy-colored<br />

fondant for additional abstract<br />

accents. She then applied egg<br />

whites to adhere the edible pearls<br />

and pearlescent powder.


To create a pounded copper look,<br />

Cady used her tool to create<br />

indentations in the fondant. She<br />

then applied edible copper foiling<br />

to create a realistic metallic look.<br />

JANUARY | FEBRUARY <strong>2018</strong> <strong>1859</strong> OREGON’S MAGAZINE 93


Cady applied final accents of<br />

honeycomb, rose hips, dried<br />

pomegranates and fresh holly.<br />

Some people wear their hearts<br />

on their sleeves—Cady wears her<br />

passion on her arm in the form of<br />

a vintage mixer tattoo. The final<br />

product was a success.<br />

94 <strong>1859</strong> OREGON’S MAGAZINE JANUARY | FEBRUARY <strong>2018</strong>


JANUARY | FEBRUARY <strong>2018</strong> <strong>1859</strong> OREGON’S MAGAZINE 95


TRAVEL SPOTLIGHT 98<br />

ADVENTURE 100<br />

LODGING 104<br />

TRIP PLANNER 106<br />

NORTHWEST DESTINATION 112<br />

Curt Peters, Digital Dunes Photography<br />

pg. 104<br />

Get cozy on the coast at Heceta Head Lighthouse Bed & Breakfast.


travel spotlight<br />

Travel Spotlight<br />

Buried Treasure<br />

written by Sheila G. Miller<br />

PENDLETON, LIKE MANY old cities,<br />

has a sordid secret.<br />

Underneath its city streets, it hid<br />

tunnels and a red light district built<br />

at the turn of the twentieth century.<br />

Discovered when potholes started<br />

showing up on the streets in the<br />

1980s, the tunnels were used in the<br />

early 1900s primarily by Chinese living<br />

in Pendleton to avoid interactions<br />

with locals, and other people taking<br />

part in less-than-legal activities.<br />

Pendleton Underground Tours is a<br />

nonprofit that started giving tours of<br />

the tunnels in 1989. The tour provides<br />

historical context to the dark side of<br />

Pendleton, including bootlegging,<br />

prostitution and gambling. It also<br />

tells the story of the Chinese who<br />

lived in Eastern Oregon and helped<br />

build the state to what it is today.<br />

The two-hour tour requires<br />

reservations and runs all days except<br />

Sundays and Tuesdays.<br />

pendletonundergroundtours.com<br />

Courtesy of Pendleton Underground Tours<br />

Dan Parnell<br />

Don Bracker<br />

Don Bracker<br />

98 <strong>1859</strong> OREGON’S MAGAZINE JANUARY | FEBRUARY <strong>2018</strong>


You should curl up here.<br />

Cannon Beach, Oregon<br />

Reserve your next romantic getaway at tolovaninn.com<br />

or call 888.333.8890<br />

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spa • sauna • exercise facility • pouch friendly<br />

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THE TOP 4 THINGS TO DO IN REDMOND<br />

BEFORE WINTER IS OVER:<br />

1) TAKE THE KIDS SKATING AT THE REDMOND ICE RINK<br />

2) HIKE OUT TO CLINE FALLS AND WATCH A GORGEOUS SUNSET<br />

3) WARM UP WITH A LOCAL BEER AT ONE OF OUR MANY BREW PUBS<br />

4) USE #VISITRDM TO DOCUMENT YOUR ADVENTURE IN REDMOND!<br />

541-923-5191∙ WWW.VISITREDMONDOREGON.COM


adventure<br />

WINTER<br />

WATERFALL<br />

ESCAPES<br />

Finding Oregon’s<br />

Easy-access waterfalls<br />

written by Sam Smargiassi<br />

IT’S THAT TIME of year, when a thick<br />

layer of cloud fills our sky and the<br />

Seasonal Affective Disorder kicks in.<br />

Getaways—especially easy ones—can<br />

remind us why we live in the Pacific<br />

Northwest. It’s cold outside, the ground<br />

is icy, we don’t feel like walking around<br />

for hours and we definitely don’t feel<br />

like camping. So here’s a list of some<br />

easy-access waterfalls to wash away<br />

the winter blues.<br />

Sam Smargiassi<br />

100 <strong>1859</strong> OREGON’S MAGAZINE JANUARY | FEBRUARY <strong>2018</strong>


adventure<br />

Sweet Creek Falls is just a short<br />

detour on your way to Florence.<br />

SWEET CREEK FALLS<br />

MAPELTON, OREGON<br />

(56 MILES WEST OF EUGENE)<br />

Sweet Creek is a quick and easy stop on<br />

your next trip to Florence. It’s an 11-<br />

mile detour off U.S. Highway 99. You<br />

can drive an extra mile and go straight to<br />

the main waterfall, but the better option<br />

is to use the Sweet Creek Homestead<br />

trail, which ends on the main falls. The<br />

special part about the 1.2-mile trail is<br />

that you walk against the current and<br />

come up on multiple waterfalls that get<br />

bigger and bigger as you follow the trail.<br />

It gets intimidating.<br />

Much of the trail has metal<br />

reinforcements for hand railings and to<br />

walk on. Some of the areas would likely<br />

never be accessed by humans if not for<br />

the catwalk bolted into the rock wall<br />

next to the falls.<br />

If you choose to drive up, there is a<br />

small parking area about a tenth of a<br />

mile from the falls. Once there, you can<br />

walk to an upper lookout.<br />

TIPS<br />

1. WEAR WATERPROOF<br />

SHOES WITH GOOD<br />

TRACTION: These trails can<br />

get pretty muddy seeing as<br />

how they’re next to fastmoving<br />

rivers, and you don’t<br />

want to have to drive home<br />

with wet socks.<br />

2. LEAVE EARLY: Daylight<br />

savings time means the sun<br />

sets early, and these are not<br />

roads you want to find yourself<br />

on in the dark.<br />

3. PACK A PICNIC: All of these<br />

locations have benches at the<br />

entrance or even on the trail.<br />

JANUARY | FEBRUARY <strong>2018</strong> <strong>1859</strong> OREGON’S MAGAZINE 101


adventure<br />

ALSEA FALLS<br />

ALSEA, OREGON<br />

(20 MILES SOUTHWEST OF CORVALLIS)<br />

At Alsea Falls, the water rushes over a wide bed of<br />

boulders. Watching it, you might find yourself in active<br />

meditation, imagining the water flushing through your<br />

thoughts. The drive is pretty, too, even though it might be<br />

the trickiest of the bunch on winding, forested roads. The<br />

key to this one is to trust the signs. You may think you’re<br />

lost, but as long as you follow the signs and not the GPS,<br />

you’ll find it. If you’re lucky, the sun will poke through the<br />

trees and create a spiral of beams to penetrate your body<br />

with a little extra vitamin D. No promises.<br />

When you arrive at Alsea Falls, you have the choice to<br />

turn left and walk about two minutes to the falls, or cross<br />

a bridge and follow an approximately 5-mile trail which<br />

chases the current of the river.<br />

Overall, this is a pretty easy option, with well-paved<br />

trails and stairs that will place you right in front of the falls.<br />

Sam Smargiassi<br />

SAHALIE FALLS<br />

HIGHWAY OR 126<br />

(56 MILES NORTHWEST OF BEND)<br />

Sahalie Falls is the biggest of a chain of waterfalls along<br />

the McKenzie River and U.S. Highway 126. The two that<br />

follow are Koosah and Tamolitch. If you decide to do the<br />

entire chain, it’s a 4-mile hike along the river that stays<br />

pretty flat. However, snow does fall there and the area<br />

can become icy and dangerous.<br />

Ice is something you should worry about even if you<br />

just pull into the parking lot and look at Sahalie Falls.<br />

Highway 126 is notorious for closing in the winter<br />

because of ice. The parking lot can be full of snow and<br />

walking down the steps to the falls can be risky. There is<br />

a sturdy railing, though, so if you fall, you won’t fall far.<br />

Despite the conditions, Sahalie Falls is an immense<br />

100-foot waterfall. The water spouts out in a huge mass<br />

between walls of lush, green foliage. When I was there,<br />

a rainbow arched over it—a truly magnificent sight.<br />

102 <strong>1859</strong> OREGON’S MAGAZINE JANUARY | FEBRUARY <strong>2018</strong>


ESCAPE<br />

THE ORDINARY<br />

Unplug with an awe-inspiring rafting, hiking,<br />

and fishing trip to experience the magic<br />

of the Rogue’s natural environment.<br />

B I S T R O<br />

exceptional<br />

food & service<br />

breathtaking<br />

river view<br />

gluten-free<br />

friendly<br />

RAFTING HIKING FISHING<br />

BOOK YOUR TRIP TODAY<br />

WWW.WILDROGUE.COM 800.336.1647<br />

open every day • lunch.dinner.sunday brunch • 503.325.6777<br />

bridgewaterbistro.com • 20 basin street, astoria or • on the river<br />

FivePineLodge.com<br />

Sisters, Oregon 541.549.5900<br />

SNEAK AWAY


lodging<br />

The Heceta Head Lighthouse Bed & Breakfast was<br />

once the former assistant lightkeeper’s house.<br />

FAR RIGHT, FROM TOP Soak in the coast on the<br />

inn’s covered front porch. The Queen Anne Room,<br />

one of six rooms at the bed & breakfast. Executive<br />

Chef Michelle Korgan uses seasonal produce and<br />

herbs from the garden to prepare breakfasts at the<br />

inn. Antique furniture adds a cozy feel.<br />

Curt Peters, Digital Dunes Photography<br />

Lodging<br />

Heceta Head Lighthouse Bed & Breakfast<br />

written by Jen Stevenson<br />

DONE PROPERLY, a dark and stormy winter’s night on the<br />

Oregon Coast is something straight out of a storybook. Jagged<br />

bluffs, roiling surf, a lonely cliff-clinging lighthouse, whisperings<br />

of a tragic tale—the historic Heceta Head Lighthouse B&B has it<br />

all, with a sensational seven-course breakfast to top it off.<br />

Once the former assistant lightkeeper’s house, the inn now<br />

serves as a priceless piece of state history, and for guests, a portal<br />

to turn-of-the-twentieth-century living—albeit with most of the<br />

creature comforts of today (wi-fi yes, flat-screen no). The six<br />

rooms are outfitted with antique furniture, hand-sewn quilts,<br />

local artwork, and should you book one of the front-facing<br />

Mariner rooms, sweeping views of the Pacific Ocean. Those<br />

seeking a brush with the resident spirit, Rue, should request<br />

Victoria’s Room, home to many an unexplained happening, from<br />

unruly locks and light switches to the mischievous mishandling<br />

of luggage.<br />

During the day, explore the lush property’s garden and grounds,<br />

visit the namesake lighthouse, or traverse the short trail down<br />

to the beach. Should the weather be fair, curl up in one of the<br />

Adirondack chairs lining the covered front porch and watch the<br />

sun sink into the sea at the day’s end. If a storm’s swirling outside,<br />

retire to the old-fashioned parlor for wine, conversation with<br />

fellow guests, an impromptu piano recital, a game of Scrabble by<br />

the fire or a good ghost story.<br />

92072 HWY 101 SOUTH<br />

YACHATS<br />

hecetalighthouse.com<br />

104 <strong>1859</strong> OREGON’S MAGAZINE JANUARY | FEBRUARY <strong>2018</strong>


lodging<br />

ROOMS<br />

The inn’s six rooms are an antique lover’s<br />

dream, some outfitted with old-fashioned<br />

four-poster beds to sink into after a long day<br />

of tidepool-hopping, others with porcelain<br />

clawfoot tubs perfect for a post-hike soak. If<br />

your sharing-a-bathroom phase sailed long<br />

ago, both Mariners rooms and Victoria’s<br />

Room have private baths; otherwise, prepare<br />

to bundle up in the provided terrycloth robe<br />

and cross the hall. If traveling with little<br />

skippers, book the adjoining Mariners I and<br />

II rooms for more breathing room.<br />

DINING<br />

Worry not about breakfast, because<br />

Executive Chef Michelle Korgan serves<br />

a seven-course morning spread in the<br />

elegantly appointed formal dining room,<br />

using seasonal produce and herbs culled<br />

from the inn’s garden. There is a fully<br />

equipped guest kitchen on-site to make<br />

your own snacks and supper. Otherwise,<br />

head twenty minutes north to tiny Yachats<br />

for fresh-caught Dungeness crab with all<br />

the fixings at Luna Sea Fish House. Or road<br />

trip twenty minutes south to Florence, a<br />

lively fishing village known for its sizeable<br />

Steller sea lion population and towering<br />

sand dunes. Sip a cup of the house blend on<br />

the peaceful riverfront patio at Old Town’s<br />

Siuslaw River Coffee Roasters, pick up roast<br />

turkey and nettle pesto sandwiches and<br />

fudgy homemade brownies at Homegrown<br />

Public House’s adjoining deli for a picnic in<br />

the park, or sit down to a leisurely seafood<br />

supper at local favorite Waterfront Depot<br />

(reservations recommended).<br />

AMENITIES<br />

If your idea of the ultimate amenity is a<br />

ghost, book Victoria’s Room, rumored<br />

to have the most paranormal activity<br />

thanks to Rue, otherwise known as the<br />

Lady in Grey. As the story goes, Rue was<br />

an assistant lightkeeper’s wife driven<br />

to suicide by the anguish of her young<br />

daughter’s accidental drowning. To this day,<br />

she watches over her former home with a<br />

gimlet eye, and the inn’s staff and locals<br />

alike are happy to ply you with tales of her<br />

mild-mannered hijinks.<br />

SPECIAL FEATURES<br />

After unpacking, make the short trek to the<br />

historic Heceta Head Lighthouse, built in<br />

1894. Perched 205 feet above the roaring<br />

surf, the working lighthouse’s first-order<br />

Fresnel lens casts Oregon’s brightest light—a<br />

piercing beam visible up to 21 miles offshore.<br />

Although the docent-led tours cease after<br />

Labor Day, the inn’s guests are privy to a<br />

post-breakfast history talk and gift shop visit.<br />

Curt Peters, Digital Dunes Photography<br />

Curt Peters, Digital Dunes Photography<br />

Curt Peters, Digital Dunes Photography<br />

Tim Mantoani<br />

JANUARY | FEBRUARY <strong>2018</strong> <strong>1859</strong> OREGON’S MAGAZINE 105


trip planner<br />

Oregon<br />

Lighthouses<br />

Beacons at land’s end<br />

written by Kimberly Bowker<br />

THE OCEAN HEAVES against the cliffs as the wind shifts, the sky<br />

darkens and the fog rolls in. Weather can change quickly on the<br />

Oregon Coast, where the vast Pacific Ocean meets the unmovable<br />

earth, and where lighthouses dot the edge of time and eternity.<br />

Most Oregon lighthouses were built in the mid-to-late<br />

nineteenth century, as trade necessitated a place of safety and<br />

guidance for ships in all weather. Many Oregon lighthouses are<br />

open to the public, some still operational, for visitors to catch a<br />

glimpse of steady solace.<br />

To visit the lighthouses that each harbor distinct characteristics,<br />

begin a trip on either the north or south end of the state, and<br />

drive along U.S. Highway 101 through coastal towns. Some<br />

lighthouses are built on ocean rocks, some on the edge of jetties,<br />

and others on forested hilltops, yet they all share the same<br />

purpose—to offer an unwavering source of light.<br />

Day<br />

BOUTIQUES • BREWS<br />

From the south, drive<br />

to the far reaches of the<br />

westernmost lighthouse in<br />

Oregon—Cape Blanco. Stop<br />

in the gift shop to pick up a<br />

lighthouse-themed souvenir<br />

and purchase a tour ticket.<br />

Friendly and knowledgeable<br />

volunteers greet guests at<br />

different stages to share<br />

some of the history of the<br />

oldest operating lighthouse in<br />

Oregon, built in 1870, which<br />

aided shipping for<br />

the lumber and gold<br />

mining industries.<br />

106 <strong>1859</strong> OREGON’S MAGAZINE JANUARY | FEBRUARY <strong>2018</strong>


trip planner<br />

Christian Heeb, courtesy of TravelOregon.com<br />

At 93 feet, Yaquina Head Lighthouse<br />

is the tallest light on the Oregon Coast.<br />

JANUARY | FEBRUARY <strong>2018</strong> <strong>1859</strong> OREGON’S MAGAZINE 107


trip planner<br />

FROM LEFT Cape Blanco, built in<br />

1870, is the oldest operating<br />

lighthouse in Oregon. The Coquille<br />

River Lighthouse helped sailors<br />

navigate the treacherous entrance<br />

to the Coquille River. Grab a drink<br />

with a view at Edgewaters in<br />

Bandon, or satisfy a seafood<br />

craving at Tony’s Crab Shack.<br />

Lois Miller, courtesy of TravelOregon.com<br />

About 200,000 bricks surround visitors<br />

walking into the workroom and up the<br />

chasm of more than sixty spiral steps. The<br />

walls and floors are hollow, as in many<br />

lighthouses, which reduces weight and<br />

helps with ventilation. At the top, stand<br />

next to the lens weighing 1 ton and watch<br />

the world reflected upside down as the glass<br />

rotates within the expansive horizon.<br />

Lights from the towers can extend 21<br />

miles in every direction, making a trip up<br />

the coast perfect to stop at the lighthouses<br />

positioned about 30 to 60 miles apart. Drive<br />

through Port Orford along the coast to the<br />

next stop: Coquille River Lighthouse.<br />

Located on a jetty, the 40-foot-tall<br />

octagonal lighthouse feels the spray of the<br />

ocean as waves hit the rocks just feet below.<br />

The lighthouse, built in 1896, helped to<br />

navigate the historically dangerous entrance<br />

to the Coquille River. The area was named<br />

after the native Coquille tribe, with Hudson<br />

Bay Company trappers here in the 1800s<br />

and the first settlers arriving in 1853.<br />

Each coastal town has its own<br />

personality, so be sure to stroll through the<br />

relaxed rhythm of old Bandon among the<br />

shingled cottages of boutique stores, cafés<br />

and art galleries. Dine on fresh seafood<br />

with a view of the lighthouse at Tony’s<br />

Crab Shack or Edgewaters Restaurant. On<br />

the way out of Bandon, drop by Forget-<br />

Me-Knots for quilt patterns of each unique<br />

lighthouse along the Oregon Coast, or to<br />

pick up some lighthouse fabric for that<br />

next quilt.<br />

Navigating up Highway 101, take a<br />

detour to view Cape Arago Lighthouse.<br />

Standing on an islet off Gregory Point, the<br />

structure is not accessible to the public, but<br />

if you drive a quarter-mile south of Sunset<br />

Bay Campground entrance and pull off<br />

the highway, you can walk the short path<br />

to a bench overlooking a grand view of<br />

the lighthouse. Stationed on a flat piece<br />

of land, it was first lit in 1934, after two<br />

lighthouses in that location buckled under<br />

time and weather.<br />

Highway 101 swings through the<br />

fishing boats waiting in harbor and past<br />

the discarded piles of white oysters in<br />

Charleston. Tall vintage buildings across<br />

from the water in nearby Coos Bay reveal<br />

some history of this old coastal town, as the<br />

road winds to the next landmark.<br />

Umpqua River Lighthouse is stationed<br />

high above the ocean and is still operated by<br />

the U.S. Coast Guard. The museum, housed<br />

in the former Coast Guard station quarters,<br />

recollects history of lighthouses and the lifesaving<br />

agency. In 1939, the U.S. Lighthouse<br />

Service combined with the Coast Guard,<br />

resulting in lighthouse jurisdiction falling to<br />

the Guard.<br />

Take a thirty-minute tour of the lighthouse,<br />

and have the rare chance to see a light from<br />

the inside. Guests can pop their heads into<br />

the middle of the rotating light and catch<br />

a new glimpse of the world as<br />

rainbows reflect onto the floor.<br />

If time permits, stop at<br />

the storybook Heceta Head<br />

108 <strong>1859</strong> OREGON’S MAGAZINE JANUARY | FEBRUARY <strong>2018</strong>


trip planner<br />

WHEN YOU GO<br />

1<br />

Be sure to check updated information, especially in winter months.<br />

Hours are dependent on weather and staffing, with some areas<br />

requiring parking fees.<br />

Bandon Chamber of Commerce<br />

Bandon Chamber of Commerce Bandon Chamber of Commerce<br />

1. TILLAMOOK ROCK LIGHTHOUSE: Not accessible to the public,<br />

but glimpse a view on the Tillamook Head trail between Ecola State<br />

Park and Seaside, or from Indian Beach parking lot at Ecola.<br />

2. CAPE MEARES LIGHTHOUSE: Open May through September,<br />

11 a.m.-4 p.m. for tours.<br />

503.842.2244 or 503.842.3182<br />

3. YAQUINA HEAD LIGHTHOUSE: Open year-round 10 a.m.-4 p.m.<br />

Be sure to get to the Interpretive Center early to sign up for a tour<br />

later that day (tours 12-3 p.m. mid-September through mid-June;<br />

tours 11 a.m.-4 p.m. during the summer). In the summer, reserve<br />

a tour online for a small cost. No tours offered Tuesdays and<br />

Thursdays in winter.<br />

541.574.3100, yaquinalights.org<br />

4. YAQUINA BAY LIGHTHOUSE: Open March through<br />

September, 11 a.m.-4 p.m., October through <strong>Feb</strong>ruary, 12-4 p.m.<br />

for self-guided tours.<br />

541.265.5679<br />

5. HECETA HEAD LIGHTHOUSE: Open March through October,<br />

11 a.m.-3 p.m., November through <strong>Feb</strong>ruary 11 a.m.-2 p.m. Tours<br />

are free.<br />

541.547.3416<br />

5<br />

3<br />

4<br />

2<br />

Lighthouse, just south of Yachats, or make<br />

time for it the following morning. An uphill<br />

winding path hugs the cliff as it cuts through<br />

a coastal forest to the top. Built in 1894, it<br />

is now the brightest lighthouse in Oregon,<br />

illuminating a 1,000-watt bulb through one<br />

of three English-crafted lens in the United<br />

States (with most lighthouse lenses being<br />

first-order Fresnel shipped from Paris).<br />

Experience an intimate lighthouse<br />

getaway, and stay the night at Heceta<br />

Lighthouse B&B. Located near the<br />

lighthouse, the idyllic accommodations<br />

are housed in the old assistant light<br />

keeper’s house finished in 1894. Or<br />

continue to Yachats and relax with local<br />

beer and food at Yachats Brewing, the<br />

neighborhood watering hole filled with<br />

sustainable delicacies. Enjoy a night at<br />

the Overleaf Lodge & Spa, or reserve an<br />

ocean-side campsite at Tillicum<br />

Campground. Let the waves lull<br />

you to sleep and be comforted as<br />

the lights remain turning.<br />

6. UMPQUA RIVER LIGHTHOUSE: Open year-round. Museum<br />

and gift shop open 10 a.m.-5 p.m., and tours 10 a.m.-4 p.m. Tours<br />

are $8 for adults, $4 for 6-17, under 5 free.<br />

541.271.4631<br />

7. CAPE ARAGO LIGHTHOUSE: Not accessible to the public,<br />

but great views available ¼-mile south of the Sunset Bay<br />

Campground entrance.<br />

8. COQUILLE RIVER LIGHTHOUSE: Open for self-guided<br />

tours mid-May through September, 11 a.m.-5 p.m.<br />

541.347.2209<br />

9. CAPE BLANCO: Open for tours April through<br />

October, Monday-Wednesday, 10 a.m.-3:30 p.m. Last<br />

tour tickets sold at 3:15 p.m. $2 for adults, free for 15<br />

and under.<br />

541.332.2207 or 541.332.0521<br />

ALSO: Tour the Lightship Columbia at the Columbia<br />

River Maritime Museum in Astoria. The Lightship,<br />

a floating lighthouse, was operational between 1951<br />

and 1979 marking the mouth of the Columbia River.<br />

Museum hours are 9:30 a.m.–5 p.m., with admission<br />

fees applicable.<br />

503.325.2323<br />

9<br />

8<br />

7<br />

6<br />

JANUARY | FEBRUARY <strong>2018</strong> <strong>1859</strong> OREGON’S MAGAZINE 109


trip planner<br />

FROM LEFT Grab a bite on the beach at Pacific City’s Pelican Brewing Co. Tillamook Rock<br />

Lighthouse, or “Terrible Tilly,” is built on a basalt rock more than a mile from land.<br />

Christian Heeb, courtesy of TravelOregon.com<br />

Day<br />

CLAM CHOWDER • TERRIBLE TILLY<br />

Breathe the fresh ocean air in the morning on the<br />

way to Newport, where two lighthouses are open to<br />

visitors year-round. Yaquina Bay Lighthouse is the<br />

oldest building in Newport, constructed in 1871,<br />

and operated as a lighthouse until 1874. Today it<br />

serves as a museum, where visitors explore what<br />

life was like more than a century ago. Tread with<br />

care, though, as stories of the haunted lighthouse<br />

have circulated since the late 1890s.<br />

Tours of Yaquina Head Lighthouse take visitors<br />

back in time, as interpretative guides in period<br />

costume walk guests over the original marble floors<br />

and up the 114 steps to the lens. The tallest light on<br />

the Oregon Coast, at 93 feet, was lit in 1873. Many<br />

keepers kept the lighthouse wicks going with lard<br />

oil or kerosene until electricity came on the scene<br />

in the 1930s.<br />

Sign up for the tour at Yaquina Head Interpretive<br />

Center and Interpretive Store, and carve out some<br />

time to view the natural and historical exhibits in<br />

the building. See the lighthouse keepers’ logs that<br />

meticulously documented weather and activity,<br />

learn the workings of the intricate lens, or watch<br />

an informational film.<br />

For lunch, drop by Mo’s for famous clam chowder<br />

at its Lincoln City location, or stop for a beer and<br />

a bite at Pelican Brewing Co. in Pacific City. Cape<br />

Meares Lighthouse is near Tillamook, home of<br />

the Tillamook Cheese Factory that provides free<br />

cheese samples and a casual café menu that offers<br />

everything cheese.<br />

To get to Cape Meares Lighthouse, take a path<br />

for about a quarter-mile through moss-laden trees<br />

to the charming 38-foot-tall lighthouse. Unlike<br />

other lighthouses, visitors approach eye-level to<br />

the lens for a new perspective, then drop down to<br />

the base.<br />

Continue the journey to the final and<br />

unforgettable stop, Tillamook Rock Lighthouse.<br />

Nicknamed “Terrible Tilly,” the lighthouse was<br />

built on a basalt rock more than a mile from<br />

land, surrounded by crashing sea and exposed to<br />

the precarious weather. Its dangers were real—a<br />

mason drowned in the ocean on the way to the<br />

island to conduct survey work—and the expensive<br />

construction took more than 500 days to complete.<br />

The lighthouse is one of the most exposed<br />

lighthouses in the United States, and housed four<br />

lighthouse keepers at one time with provisions<br />

lasting six months. The lighthouse was operational<br />

between 1881 and 1957, and can now be viewed<br />

safely from land. It is also a columbarium, acting as<br />

a resting place for ashes of loved ones in the midst<br />

of the sea.<br />

The history of these exquisite and graceful<br />

Oregon lighthouses, each different and vital to<br />

maritime survival, remains an integral part of<br />

coastal communities. Cameron La Follette, author<br />

of articles about lighthouses for Oregon Historical<br />

Society’s Oregon Encyclopedia, reminds us the<br />

importance of preserving lighthouses. They served<br />

as beacons in a place of great danger, and need help<br />

to stay alive.<br />

“They are highly valuable to the communities,”<br />

La Follette said. “As part of history and beauty—<br />

and they are extremely symbolic to everyone.”<br />

OREGON LIGHTHOUSES<br />

EAT<br />

Tony’s Crab Shack<br />

tonyscrabshack.com<br />

Edgewaters Restaurant<br />

edgewaters.net<br />

Yachats Brewing<br />

yachatsbrewing.com<br />

Mo’s<br />

moschowder.com<br />

Pelican Brewing Co.<br />

pelicanbrewing.com<br />

Tillamook Cheese Factory<br />

tillamook.com<br />

STAY<br />

Headlands Coastal Lodge & Spa<br />

headlandslodge.com<br />

Heceta Lighthouse B&B<br />

hecetalighthouse.com<br />

Overleaf Lodge & Spa<br />

overleaflodge.com<br />

Many of the lighthouses are<br />

located on state parks that offer<br />

camping options, so be sure to<br />

check it overnight availability at<br />

oregonstateparks.org.<br />

PLAY<br />

Forget-Me-Knots Quilt Shop<br />

forget-me-knots.net<br />

Hikes along the Oregon Coast<br />

oregonstateparks.org<br />

Sea Lion Caves<br />

sealioncaves.com<br />

110 <strong>1859</strong> OREGON’S MAGAZINE JANUARY | FEBRUARY <strong>2018</strong>


8am<br />

Venture out.<br />

7pm<br />

Dig in.<br />

HEAD OUT. STAY IN.<br />

PACIFIC CITY, OREGON | HEADLANDSLODGE.COM


northwest destination<br />

Ketchum & Sun Valley<br />

Hitting up the best slopes in Idaho<br />

written by Kevin Max<br />

The Limelight Hotel<br />

opened in <strong>Jan</strong>uary 2016.<br />

THE PROBLEM WITH Ketchum and Sun Valley is there are too<br />

many things to get after if you’re on the outdoorsy-to-athletic arc.<br />

Let’s deal with the obvious first—Sun Valley Ski Resort is the<br />

stuff of dreams, reveries that go back to the roots of alpine skiing<br />

in this country and figures as broad as history itself. As mining<br />

was fading in the 1930s and the valley was losing population,<br />

Averell Harriman, of the Union Pacific Railroad and Secretary of<br />

Commerce under President Truman, had an interest in the success<br />

of the Wood River Valley. Harriman recruited Austrian nobility<br />

in the form of Count Felix Schaffgotsch to site a world-class ski<br />

resort in Ketchum. Schaffgotsch declared the surrounding slopes<br />

perfectly suitable for skiing, developed them, built the Sun Valley<br />

Lodge and invited glamorous Hollywood stars out for winter fun.<br />

The dirty little secret is that Count Schaffgotsch counted himself a<br />

Hitler supporter. He soon decamped to fight on the wrong side of<br />

the war and was killed in the Battle of Stalingrad in 1942, as Soviets<br />

crushed the Nazi attack. Permit me this one insensitivity—we got<br />

a nice ski resort out this and one that is Hollywood’s winter home.<br />

Today, the resort is an iconic destination with 3,400 vertical<br />

feet, ten lifts and more than 100 trails. The ski lodges are built for<br />

ages past and future—big wood beams, brass fixtures, massive<br />

chandeliers, stone fireplaces in a collision of comfort and opulence,<br />

Lodge and Jazz eras.<br />

Let’s not forget Wood River Valley’s best skiing. Up the Sawtooth<br />

Scenic Byway heading north from town is the Nordic mecca at<br />

Galena Lodge. North Valley and Galena trails (adult one-day pass<br />

$17; kids 17 and under are free) and Wood River trails are free<br />

and open to the public. The mountains that tilt off the highway<br />

are known as the Boulder Mountains, despite their smooth and<br />

boulderless appearance. One runs out of names, I suppose. A<br />

fairly serious competition of cross-country skiing happens in this<br />

valley each <strong>Feb</strong>ruary. In flattering spandex, competitors in the<br />

Boulder Mountain Tour glide 34 kilometers down the Harriman<br />

Trail from Galena Lodge. It’s not for everyone, but a spectacle for<br />

onlookers nonetheless.<br />

Try the full-moon dinners at Galena Lodge December through<br />

March. For $45, you get a four-course dinner served at communal<br />

tables in a remote lodge in the Sawtooth National Recreation Area.<br />

For a surprising bit of culture in this mountain town, check out the<br />

Sun Valley Opera. This is an intimate way to see top musical acts<br />

for a high-browed thrill. The opera takes place at the Community<br />

School Theatre and, now, at the new Limelight Hotel downtown.<br />

Strolling downtown Ketchum is a simple pleasure of its own. On<br />

Main Street, too many places demand the attention of a drink or<br />

two—Pioneer Saloon, Sawtooth Club, Whiskey Jacques, Despo’s<br />

for Mexican and margaritas. My favorites include the Ketchum<br />

Grill, a classic and good for noisy conversation; Il Naso for lively<br />

Italian cuisine in an intimate den; and the newcomer<br />

Town Square for upscale Middle Eastern dishes and<br />

well-traveled wines. Thrifting at the Gold Mine is always<br />

112 <strong>1859</strong> OREGON’S MAGAZINE JANUARY | FEBRUARY <strong>2018</strong>


Lunch<br />

Brunch<br />

Dinner<br />

Sightseeing<br />

Charters<br />

Let’s<br />

Celebrate!<br />

local family owned since 1994<br />

Portland Spirit Cruises & Events<br />

503-224-3900 / 800-224-3901<br />

PortlandSpirit.com


northwest destination<br />

208 Images & Media<br />

Dev Khalsa Photography<br />

FROM LEFT Grumpy’s, in Ketchum, is the perfect place to grab a burger. Find stellar nordic trails at Galena Lodge.<br />

KETCHUM AND SUN VALLEY, IDAHO<br />

EAT<br />

Town Square Tavern<br />

ketchumtavern.com<br />

Grumpy’s<br />

grumpyssunvalley.com<br />

Il Naso<br />

ilnaso.com<br />

Ketchum Grill<br />

ketchumgrill.com<br />

Pioneer Saloon<br />

pioneersaloon.com<br />

STAY<br />

Limelight Hotel<br />

limelighthotels.com/ketchum<br />

Sun Valley Lodge<br />

sunvalley.com/lodging/sunvalley-lodge<br />

Camp in Sawtooth National<br />

Recreation Area<br />

fs.usda.gov<br />

PLAY<br />

Zenergy<br />

zenergysv.com<br />

Sun Valley Ski Resort<br />

sunvalley.com<br />

Nordic skiing at Galena Lodge<br />

galenalodge.com<br />

Easley Hot Springs<br />

Trail Running<br />

on the retail menu, too. Of course, there is the<br />

burgher of burgers, Grumpy’s just north on Warm<br />

Springs Road. Hoist a stein of beer, then tipsy-toe<br />

over to Ketchum Cemetery to pay respects to the<br />

writer’s writer, Ernest Hemingway.<br />

In A Farewell to Arms, Hemingway wrote, “If<br />

people bring so much courage to this world the<br />

world has to kill them to break them, so of course<br />

it kills them. The world breaks every one and<br />

afterward many are strong at the broken places.”<br />

This is a good place and state of mind to swear<br />

out loud and then solemnly vow to re-read every<br />

Hemingway book. In a way, Ketchum is a historic<br />

fence line between two of its most remarkable<br />

past residents. Hemingway was fighting against<br />

fascists with words in the Spanish Civil War long<br />

before Schaffgotsch fought with guns for fascists.<br />

Ketchum and Sun Valley are top of mind for<br />

winter vacations but, by Zeus, summer may be<br />

the better season. I’ve been to Ketchum many<br />

times, but these trips were always built around<br />

skiing. Last July, my wife and I rolled into town<br />

over the Galena pass with an Airstream trailer<br />

in tow and down the spine of Highway 75, the<br />

scenic byway. Our daughters had a Nordic skiing<br />

camp there, yes, in summer, giving us time to<br />

play in Ketchum’s other season. We set up at<br />

Easley campground, 14 miles north of town.<br />

Wood River and North Fork campgrounds are<br />

just down the road and are also good options for<br />

camping. Easley, though, has a leg up with the<br />

Easley Hot Springs adjacent to camp. From the<br />

hot springs pool, you can soak in the Sawtooth<br />

National Forest, slow down and start to mend.<br />

From Easley, it’s also a short drive to one of<br />

the most varied and scenic trail runs in the West.<br />

Fox Creek Loop spins out over 6.8 miles through<br />

stunning vistas of the Boulder Mountains,<br />

bombasts of wild flowers, shocks of white aspen<br />

and chars of recent burns. There are some wideopen<br />

stretches of this run that beg you to stop,<br />

walk and take it all in until electrical storms move<br />

in. If you’re spending any time in the area, this is<br />

one of the flagship trails for hiking or running,<br />

along with Adams Gulch and Pioneer Cabin.<br />

We spent the next few nights in town, where<br />

we decamped at the new Limelight Hotel, a<br />

much-needed addition to Ketchum hospitality.<br />

Limelight, which opened in <strong>Jan</strong>uary 2016,<br />

is a destination luxury hotel with a modern,<br />

sustainable and clean vibe. Dogs are equally<br />

pampered guests. Limelight’s pool area is a great<br />

place to unwind with truffle fries, lamb lollipops<br />

and margaritas.<br />

Limelight is just a jog from another spectacular<br />

run. The Bald Mountain trail to the upper station<br />

of the Roundhouse Gondola gains 3,230 feet in<br />

the 5.3 mile-round trip. Run up and ride down.<br />

The ski resort operates the gondola from the end<br />

of June to the middle of September from 9 a.m.<br />

until 4 p.m.<br />

If you want to take a different approach to<br />

recreation, Limelight is connected with Zenergy,<br />

the top fitness and spa in Ketchum, which<br />

has musical guests in the summer. Our night<br />

there, outside in the heat of summer and in the<br />

courtyard of Zenergy, a jazz singer crooned sultry<br />

songs of the soul that healed all broken places.<br />

114 <strong>1859</strong> OREGON’S MAGAZINE JANUARY | FEBRUARY <strong>2018</strong>


1-800-COAST44 / DISCOVERNEWPORT.COM<br />

D I S C O V<br />

E R<br />

M UKI L T E O<br />

Lighthouse Park<br />

www.mukilteochamber.org/discover<br />

Whidbey Island Ferry Japanese Gulch Trails Harbour Pointe Golf Course Paine Field Aerospace Museums


EXPLORE OREGON<br />

eat + stay + play<br />

ANJOU SPA<br />

Nestled between the lush Cascade<br />

mountains and High Desert juniper<br />

and sagebrush, Anjou Spa is a Lifestyle<br />

and Wellness Spa dedicated to the<br />

art of looking and feeling good, both<br />

inside and out. Holistic, results-driven<br />

and inspired by our environment,<br />

we focus on providing memorable,<br />

botanically driven treatments,<br />

experiences and gifts that support<br />

equilibrium to an active lifestyle.<br />

541.241.8454<br />

1835 NW Pence Lane<br />

BEND<br />

anjouspa.com<br />

ARBORBROOK<br />

VINEYARDS<br />

ArborBrook Vineyards is a boutique<br />

producer of exceptional handcrafted<br />

wines. Family-owned and operated, it<br />

is located in the heart of Oregon wine<br />

country in the Chehalem Mountain<br />

AVA. Visit the tasting room for a<br />

relaxing and casual wine tasting<br />

experience. Weekdays, 11– 4:30.<br />

Weekends, 11–5.<br />

503.538.0959<br />

17770 NE Calkins Lane<br />

NEWBERG<br />

arborbrookwines.com<br />

CASCADE LAKES<br />

BREWING COMPANY<br />

On the road to Mt. Bachelor you’ll find<br />

the warm and welcoming Cascade<br />

Lakes Brewing Company Lodge.<br />

Enjoy 16 liquids on draft, a full bar,<br />

pool table and darts. You can also visit<br />

the flagship location in Redmond on<br />

7th Street. A local favorite for Taco<br />

Wednesdays, horseshoes and great<br />

hometown feel. Cheers!<br />

541.388.4998<br />

1441 SW Chandler Ave., #100<br />

BEND<br />

cascadelakes.com<br />

THE CHATEAU AT<br />

THE OREGON CAVES<br />

NATIONAL MONUMENT<br />

Cool cave, warm hearth. En route between<br />

the California Redwoods and Crater Lake,<br />

this national historic landmark offers rustic<br />

charm and a friendly staff. Experience tours<br />

of capacious marble caverns ranging from<br />

family-friendly to adventurous. Explore<br />

hiking trails to alpine lakes and discover<br />

nearby wineries and attractions. Find<br />

lodging, fine dining, a regional artisan gift<br />

gallery and an authentic 1930s-style café.<br />

541.592.3400<br />

20000 Caves Hwy.<br />

CAVE JUNCTION<br />

oregoncaveschateau.com<br />

MOUNT BACHELOR<br />

VILLAGE RESORT<br />

Mount Bachelor Village Resort is<br />

located minutes from downtown Bend<br />

and the Old Mill District shops on the<br />

road to Mt. Bachelor. Nestled among the<br />

pines on the ridge above the Deschutes<br />

River, the resort offers a variety of<br />

nightly accommodations (river view<br />

condominiums, standard hotel-rooms,<br />

ski house condominiums and vacation<br />

homes). Distinguishing features include<br />

access to the Deschutes River Trail,<br />

outdoor hot tubs, seasonal pools and<br />

cruiser bikes and complimentary access<br />

to the Athletic Club of Bend.<br />

877.514.2391<br />

19717 Mt. Bachelor Drive<br />

BEND<br />

mtbachelorvillage.com<br />

116 <strong>1859</strong> OREGON’S MAGAZINE JANUARY | FEBRUARY <strong>2018</strong><br />

BLACK BUTTE RANCH<br />

Formerly a working cattle ranch,<br />

Black Butte Ranch is nestled at the<br />

base of the Cascade Mountains with<br />

stunning views of seven mountain<br />

peaks and access to all that Deschutes<br />

National Forest has to offer. The Ranch<br />

encompasses 1,800 pristine acres of<br />

Ponderosa forest, meadows, and lakes.<br />

With two ski areas close by (Hoodoo<br />

ski area is just 15 miles from the Ranch<br />

and Mt. Bachelor is 32 miles), two<br />

recreation centers, indoor pool, spa and<br />

fitness center you can be as busy or laidback<br />

as you want. Book a minimum<br />

three night stay and receive a $50 gift<br />

card for use anywhere on the Ranch.<br />

Reserve your stay today!<br />

541.549.5555<br />

220 S. Ash St., Ste. 8<br />

SISTERS<br />

blackbutte.com


eat + stay + play<br />

EXPLORE OREGON<br />

DANCIN VINEYARDS<br />

2017 Oregon Winery of the Year-<br />

WPNW. DANCIN is a love story<br />

and the marriage of science and art.<br />

Situated in the vineyard and located<br />

just minutes from Ashland, Medford<br />

and Jacksonville, our tasting room and<br />

patio are the perfect setting to drink<br />

in the views of Table Rocks, Mount<br />

McLoughlin and the Rogue Valley while<br />

savoring our award-winning wines<br />

along with our artisan wood-fired pizzas<br />

and much more, served tableside!<br />

541.245.1133<br />

4477 South Stage Road<br />

MEDFORD<br />

dancinvineyards.com<br />

CHRISTMAS TREASURES<br />

A Christmas Experience! Christmas<br />

Treasures brings you the most treasured<br />

ornaments and items for gift giving and<br />

collecting. Start a new family tradition.<br />

Come experience the Old World charm,<br />

and see our unique products not only<br />

during the holiday season but all through<br />

the year. A family business for 24 years.<br />

Featuring: Jim Shore, Dept. 56, Possible<br />

Dreams, German Nutcrackers and<br />

Smokers, Nativities, Charming Tails,<br />

Michel Design Works and so much more.<br />

800.820.8189<br />

52959 McKenzie Hwy.<br />

BLUE RIVER<br />

christmas-treasures.com<br />

MILL INN BED<br />

& BREAKFAST<br />

Mill Inn Bed & Breakfast offers 10<br />

unique rooms in its boutique hotel.<br />

Each room features luxurious linens, its<br />

own theme, beautiful furnishings and<br />

comforts of home, and they’re priced<br />

to fit your budget. Check out the Mill<br />

Inn website for information on your<br />

included homemade hearty breakfast!<br />

541.389.9198<br />

642 NW Colorado Ave.<br />

BEND<br />

millinn.com<br />

Rabbit Tales Georgia Gerber<br />

NW BY NW GALLERY<br />

Original art by regional masters defines<br />

this destination gallery. Celebrating 30<br />

years of excellence with public sculpture<br />

by gallery artists throughout Cannon<br />

Beach. NW By NW Gallery represents<br />

a collector’s selection of bronze<br />

sculpture by renowned public sculptor<br />

Georgia Gerber. Visit the Sculpture<br />

Garden featuring contemporary<br />

sculptor Ivan McLean.<br />

503.436.0741<br />

232 N. Spruce St.<br />

CANNON BEACH<br />

nwbynwgallery.com<br />

OREGON GARDEN<br />

RESORT<br />

Escape to Oregon Garden Resort, a 103-<br />

room, pet-friendly resort set amid an<br />

80-acre botanical wonder showcasing<br />

thousands of plants in more than 20<br />

colorful specialty gardens. There’s<br />

something for everyone! Explore rare<br />

conifers, beautiful water features, garden<br />

art, a 400-year-old Signature Oak tree,<br />

a fun garden just for kids, pet-friendly<br />

plants and more. After exploring, relax<br />

in the resort with a spa treatment, a<br />

gourmet dinner and cocktail and live<br />

music nightly. Fun events happen<br />

throughout the year, including an annual<br />

Brewfest over Father’s Day weekend,<br />

and Christmas in the Garden featuring<br />

lights, ice skating and artisan vendors<br />

each holiday season.<br />

503.874.2500<br />

895 W. Main St.<br />

SILVERTON<br />

oregongardenresort.com<br />

THE OLD MILL DISTRICT<br />

The Old Mill District is Bend’s<br />

most unique shopping, dining and<br />

entertainment experience. The rich<br />

history of the former sawmills is coupled<br />

with spectacular mountain views, scenic<br />

river vistas and an extensive trail system<br />

to enjoy the outdoors. More than 55<br />

local, regional and national retailers and<br />

restaurants call the Old Mill District<br />

home. Riverside restaurants, trails, shops<br />

and shows. Bend is here.<br />

541.312.0131<br />

450 SW Powerhouse Dr.<br />

BEND<br />

theoldmill.com<br />

JANUARY | FEBRUARY <strong>2018</strong> <strong>1859</strong> OREGON’S MAGAZINE 117


<strong>1859</strong> MAPPEDThe points of interest below are culled from<br />

stories and events in this edition of <strong>1859</strong>.<br />

Live<br />

Think<br />

Explore<br />

32<br />

Oregon Truffle Festival<br />

64<br />

Canvas<br />

98<br />

Pendleton Underground Tours<br />

36<br />

Pachamama Farm<br />

66<br />

Atticus Hotel<br />

100<br />

Sweet Creek Falls<br />

40<br />

Steamboat Inn<br />

68<br />

Oregon Social Learning Center<br />

104<br />

Heceta Head Lighthouse B&B<br />

54<br />

Kingdom of Golf<br />

70<br />

Anna’s Bridal<br />

106<br />

Tillamook Rock Lighthouse<br />

56<br />

Bonneville Dam<br />

72<br />

Lewis & Clark College<br />

112<br />

Ketchum, Idaho<br />

118 <strong>1859</strong> OREGON’S MAGAZINE JANUARY | FEBRUARY <strong>2018</strong>


Pursuing excellence<br />

through fitness<br />

61615 Athletic Club Drive (541) 385-3062


Until Next Time<br />

Showing Me the Way Home<br />

written by Susannah Bradley | illustrated by Allison Bye<br />

THE PICTURE ON the video screen was dark and grainy,<br />

blurry around the edges with three disks at its center. It<br />

might have been a satellite image of planets in a distant<br />

solar system, remote and mysterious as fate. And in a way,<br />

it was. As I lay on the surgical table at Portland’s Oregon<br />

Reproductive Medicine, staring at my three tiny embryos<br />

on the screen, I willed those planets to become my new<br />

world. Fate, luck and nature had all failed me in my quest<br />

to become a mother, and so it was up to science.<br />

The surgical team finalized its preparations, and I<br />

watched in awe as the doctor drew up each microscopic<br />

fertilized embryo in a pipette for transfer back to my<br />

body. I didn’t feel a thing as the transfer took place, but<br />

psychically, it was huge. If the transfer “took,” I would soon<br />

be the mother of a baby … or three.<br />

The embryo transfer is the last step in the arduous IVF<br />

process. After weeks of injections, ultrasounds and blood<br />

tests, eight eggs were retrieved and cultured in ORM’s<br />

lab. By the fifth day, three embryos had formed, and the<br />

clinic prepared them for transfer. After that, there was<br />

an almost unbearable two-week wait to find out if the<br />

process had worked.<br />

I’ve spent most of my life in the Pacific Northwest, but<br />

I came to Portland for IVF because Oregon Reproductive<br />

Medicine’s success rate for people my age was among the<br />

highest in the country. While my husband was working<br />

in Northern California during a brief career detour, I<br />

spent the two-week wait falling in love with Oregon, my<br />

embryos, and ultimately the idea of a home among the<br />

sheltering trees. I made bargains with the universe (“If this<br />

pregnancy takes, I promise to …”) and saw auspicious signs<br />

everywhere I looked. Red-haired twins shouting “Happy<br />

New Year!” on Hawthorne Boulevard in the middle of July.<br />

Clouds shaped like horses gamboling in the sky over Hood<br />

River. And on a quiet morning in Forest Park, the deer who<br />

stopped and watched me watching her on the trail filled<br />

me with a deep sense that everything was going to be fine.<br />

While my embryos were going about the work of<br />

dividing and implanting, I was discovering neighborhoods,<br />

wandering through parks, and eating a lot of pizza, pastry<br />

and ice cream. I was making myself at home.<br />

“Just wait until the rain starts,” people warned. “Everyone<br />

loves Portland when the sun is shining.” But this was love,<br />

and I knew better.<br />

Two weeks later, the call came on a Tuesday morning.<br />

One of the three embryos had implanted, and we were<br />

going to be parents. I joined my husband in California<br />

and made all of the usual preparations for the birth of<br />

our son, but I missed Oregon the way you miss a person.<br />

I looked out our kitchen window at the arid hills of the<br />

Diablo Range and wished for green mountains and lush<br />

forests instead. If home is where a family’s story begins,<br />

then our family’s home couldn’t be anywhere but Portland.<br />

My husband agreed, updated his resume, and before long<br />

we were hunting for a home for our fledgling family.<br />

Now, we’re raising our son—and his two younger<br />

brothers—in a ramshackle treehouse in Portland’s<br />

Southwest hills. Our boys love rain puddles and slugs,<br />

and falling asleep to the calls of coyotes and owls. They<br />

are Oregonians with a deep appreciation for our state’s<br />

natural treasures and a sense of wonder for the beautiful<br />

place we call home. My oldest boy loves to hear about<br />

the month I spent alone, discovering the places we now<br />

explore together, willing him into existence and making<br />

promises to the universe to be the best mom, if given<br />

the chance. I’ll always be grateful to the team at Oregon<br />

Reproductive Medicine for that chance—and for showing<br />

me the way home.<br />

120 <strong>1859</strong> OREGON’S MAGAZINE JANUARY | FEBRUARY <strong>2018</strong>


TOGETHER WE CAN<br />

mercycorps.org<br />

Help us transform lives today.<br />

Freeal, 15, survives in a refugee camp after fleeing her home in Mosul, Iraq.

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