File - Canadian Wayfarer Association

eally light stuff, we have successfully gone with up to 10 cm (4”) of bend and no chocks at the
front of the mast to give the feeble airs an easier, flatter curve to negotiate.
As the wind increases towards overpowering, the reverse is true. We want to make it tougher
for the mast to bend which means spreaders angled further forward (about 1 meter (39”) or
more from shroud to shroud) and chocks in or the mast will easily bend too much. In the latter
case, main leech becomes too floppy and the boat will not point! In survival conditions, the mast
will bend 10+ cm (4”) even with spreaders angled well forward, once extreme vang is applied (as it
should be!). This is something one has to live with, as far as I know. All we can do to help the sail
shape is to put on enough of cunningham to remove diagonal folds between mast and boom.
Recommended rake for light and medium airs is 713 à 716 cm (23’ 5 to 6”) at medium rig tension
(about 150 kg (330 lb.)). We measure this with the mast “pinged” (mid-mast bent forward) by
hoisting a 7,5 meter (25’) tape measure (shackled to main halyard) to the “main fully up” position
and taking a reading of the distance to the centre of the traveller at its lower forward edge.
For really heavy air, we sometimes move down one hole (about ¼ inch) on our shroud plates to
increase the rake and open the slot between main and jib. This means less distance (706 à 709
cm (23’ 2 to 3”)) between mast tip and traveller/bridle.
• The outhaul is fully extended to the black band only in very light or heavy air. Otherwise, it
is off 7,5 à 10 cm (3 to 4”) for extra power until backwind becomes a problem.
• The cunningham is used only enough to remove major creases from the luff as the wind
starts to blow fairly hard. (Another use we have recently found for the cunningham is to
stretch our luff tape which has shrunk over the years, and thus keep the worst wrinkles out
of the luff without stretching the luff cloth itself.)
• Mainsheet and vang: Until we get overpowered, we use no vang when close-hauled. We sheet
in until the upper leech ticker begins to get sucked in behind the main - even a bit more once
we have good speed up in fairly flat water (like going into second gear!). Once we get
overpowered, we use increasing amounts of vang and sheet in as far as we can without
putting excessive heel (=helm) on the boat.
• Leech ticker: On our main, we use just one 15 cm (6”) wind tuft, on the leech at about 3/4
height. Made of wool to ensure continued function even in rain, it is attached by threading
the wool through a needle and putting a Figure 8 knot in the long end. We then slide the
needle inside the fold of cloth at the leech, letting the needle come out the aft end. Pull
through until the stopper knot is wedged safely inside the fold where it will not catch the
rest of the ticker.
Lower mast bend can be partly limited by inserting wooden shims/chocks between the front of
the mast and the slot in the foredeck. Encourage mast bend in light air and heavy air (no shims).
Discourage lower mast bend in medium air by inserting some shims.
Pressure from the shims usually will damage the front of the mast. This can be avoided by
installing a protective sleeve around the mast. The aluminum sleeve should extend from say 5 à
7,5 cm (2 or 3") above the deck down to say 20 cm (8") below the deck level. Such a sleeve is
available from Proctor Masts. It redistributes the force over a wider area thus eliminating
damage to the mast. Lower mast bend can also be limited by installing a U-shaped channel under
the mast step. As the mast bends, the foot travels aft along the channel. This travel can be
limited by a bolt through the U channel. The amount of travel to allow is controversial. Currently,
I allow a max. of about 3,8 cm (1½”) of movement at the foot of the mast.
1.2.6 miscellaneous mast issues
• Always use a mast head fly to help show the wind direction. Tape to the top of the mast with
duct tape. Extend as far above the mast as practical for clear air.
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