File - Canadian Wayfarer Association
File - Canadian Wayfarer Association
File - Canadian Wayfarer Association
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1.3.3 Boom outhaul<br />
Function of the outhaul<br />
Set up the outhaul so that it is easily adjustable while sailing. Run control lines back under the<br />
thwart (or along the side of the CB housing) but preferably to each side deck for adjustment<br />
while sailing. A 3:1 or 4:1 purchase is effective.<br />
• In light wind, pull the clew of the main out close to the black-band to flatten the sail, this<br />
helps to maintain air flow over the sail. A tight outhaul also helps to loosen the leach of the<br />
main. It is OK if the foot of the main folds into a shelf. This is necessary to flatten the sail.<br />
• In medium air, ease the outhaul to make the sail full for max. power. Just take out the<br />
vertical wrinkles along the foot.<br />
• In heavy air, pull the clew out to the black band to flatten (depower) the main when going to<br />
windward. Ease the outhaul on reaches to provide increased power for planing.<br />
With the current trend towards close sheeting genoas, the ability to adjust tension along the<br />
foot of the mainsail so that the bottom section of the sail can be flattened to keep the slot open<br />
is an important control. In fact, it is all too easy to overflatten the bottom of the sail. So,<br />
initially have the foot fuller than you think is necessary. Then, as the front of the sail<br />
backwinds, flatten progressively until there is as little backwind as possible. This also gives the<br />
advantage of opening out the lower leech to reduce heeling forces. In simple terms therefore,<br />
when beating in light weather, the foot should be as tight as possible with horizontal ridges. As<br />
soon as the crew sits on deck, the sail should be eased about 4 cm (1½”) to give some backwinding<br />
but not too much. Then, as the helmsman has to progressively ease the main sheet, the foot<br />
should be tensioned gradually to cut down the heeling moment. Do remember however, that if<br />
there isn’t power in the rig to drive through waves, it pays to have the foot fuller and to accept<br />
the backwinding. Finally, mark the control line where it leaves the boom to show the amount of<br />
tension applied, and lead it back to the helmsman.<br />
Outhaul Installation<br />
You will need a swaging tool for this (or you could use pre-stretched rope instead of wire).<br />
The inboard and outboard endplates will have to come off the boom. You will probably already<br />
have an entry block at the aft end of the boom, but for this system, you will also need a (small!)<br />
entry block on the underside of the boom at its inboard end. I used a HA-6 for this and put it so<br />
close to the inboard end of the boom that I had a nasty surprise when I tried out my new<br />
system: the gooseneck plug would no longer fit into the boom! I got around that problem by<br />
hack-sawing off most of the plug which is now about 2 cm. long (and it has worked fine for the<br />
past 20 years!). In retrospect, I like this system because it leaves the outhaul system nice and<br />
close to the mast so that the outhaul is not visibly tightened when I let the boom out to a reach<br />
or run – which it would be if I moved the entry block too far aft! A really small entry block<br />
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