22.03.2013 Views

File - Canadian Wayfarer Association

File - Canadian Wayfarer Association

File - Canadian Wayfarer Association

SHOW MORE
SHOW LESS

You also want an ePaper? Increase the reach of your titles

YUMPU automatically turns print PDFs into web optimized ePapers that Google loves.

We used to use a block with a becket at the end of the boom - which<br />

required one less slide - but I find I prefer the system diagrammed<br />

above with the end system that I just finished laying onto my scanner<br />

with the result at left:<br />

You can probably see how thin that sheet is - it doesn't bother my<br />

hands but then I<br />

• have fairly tough hands<br />

• cleat and uncleat the mainsheet hundreds of times per race<br />

The snap shackle is fairly permanently attached to the aftermost Ubracket<br />

on the boom but in last year's drifters on the Sunday of the<br />

Midwinters, it was nice to be able to unsnap it from the boom.<br />

This takes one purchase and a lot of rope pulling out of the system for<br />

places such as the leeward mark! And a thin sheet runs much more<br />

freely through its blocks, which faster and sometimes safer!<br />

The Swivel Block & Cleat Assembly<br />

As luck would have it, I inherited what I believe to be the perfect swivel block assembly. Made<br />

by Barton, it has a short, low-rise plate that attaches the metal cam cleat to its base. Much as I<br />

love Harken stuff of almost every description, I have dumped at least twice when using a<br />

borrowed boat that had their standard high-rise swivel cleat. The problem was that, during a<br />

tack, the sheet cleated itself on the Harken swivel whereas my Barton swivel takes a conscious<br />

effort to cleat - i.e. I have to reach down, or push on the sheet with one foot, to make it cleat.<br />

If find this easier to do than to explain, and for me, it is certainly much safer (and drier!)<br />

I believe the glass boats tend to come with a spot provided for the swivel mount at the aft end<br />

of the centreboard box. If I had a glass boat, I would not use this location since it's too low for<br />

my taste. And above all, it's too far aft - considering that I go aft of the mainsheet each time I<br />

tack, and that the further aft I go, the more transom drag I get.<br />

1.3.7 Mainsail shape and trim 16<br />

The mainsail has a very important role to play in the development of power from the whole rig.<br />

This stems not only from its function as the windward part of the slot between genoa and main,<br />

but also from its sheer size. Correct setting up and control are therefore necessary to get the<br />

most speed out of the sail. Particular care has to be taken with the mainsheet tension because it<br />

is very easy to oversheet and stall the air flow coming off the leech. This usually occurs when<br />

beating or reaching. So do remember that as the air flows over the sail’s windward and leeward<br />

surfaces, it forms a pressure gradient which creates a leeward going force at right angles to the<br />

sail’s surface. Obviously the bulk of this force is in the leeward front sections of the sail, but if<br />

the leech is too tight, some of it will actually be facing backwards to create drag. This not only<br />

decreases forward movement but increases sideways and heeling forces. In such a case, the<br />

leeward air will refuse to conform to the sail’s exit curve. As the lee-ward air flow breaks away,<br />

the sail stalls, resulting in a dramatic loss of power and speed. This explains that sudden loss of<br />

speed in fluky or gusty conditions when the sail cannot cope with the variations in the speed of<br />

the air flowing across it, and it explains why rigs must be capable of adjustment.<br />

16 slightly spiffed-up version of an article that Mike McNamara wrote for the May 1990 Whiffle<br />

27

Hooray! Your file is uploaded and ready to be published.

Saved successfully!

Ooh no, something went wrong!