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File - Canadian Wayfarer Association

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centre of effort forward). If you need to luff up, ease the jib very slightly (to bring the centre<br />

of effort aft).<br />

4 The centreboard<br />

It is vital that the centreboard have minimum play inside the box. On glass boats with wide slots,<br />

you need to insert plastic or tufnol washers of several inches’ diameter on both sides of the<br />

board, putting the centreboard pin through them. The leading edge should be as close as possible<br />

to the maximum 83º angle allowed to get the biggest possible presented area.<br />

When sailing off the wind, have as little board down as you can without skidding sideways. If<br />

there is too little board down, the helm will feel heavy and the wash will be turbulent on the<br />

windward side. So if in doubt, look aft!<br />

The leading edge needs to be nicely rounded. An arc of about 1 cm (3/8 ”) inch is about right. It<br />

should merge gently into the centre flat sections. The transition between the flat centre and<br />

the aft bevel should be equally smooth with no abrupt change in profile. The very back edge<br />

needs to have 3 mm (1/8”) flat or so, to give it strength.<br />

5 Hiking straps<br />

The toe straps should be just long enough to enable the sailors to sit out comfortably. There<br />

should also be shock cord tensioning to keep them taut so that the sailor can find them easily<br />

after a tack or gybe. There must also be enough room left between the helm’s toe straps to<br />

enable him to step between them as he tacks.<br />

6 Tacking.<br />

The <strong>Wayfarer</strong> will roll tack beautifully without stopping. The secret of a good tack is for both<br />

sailors to remain on the old windward side until the boom has gone over. Then both sailors should<br />

move to the new windward side. It is also important to ease the mainsheet a little as the helm<br />

goes across. This lets the sailors sit down without the boat heeling too much. The crew should be<br />

marginally behind the helm so that he can, in windy conditions, sit down on the weather side, or<br />

in light conditions, move back to the leeward side as needed. Especially in light winds, the helm is<br />

usually unbalanced at this time, and must be careful how he sits down. If he is too clumsy, the air<br />

will be shaken off the sails.<br />

For this reason, aft mainsheeting is generally better for sailing inland in light weather because<br />

the helm faces aft during the tack and is crouched lower in the boat. The helm should always<br />

swap hands on the tiller before he leaves the old windward side. Then the extension is already in<br />

the correct hand when he gets onto the new tack.<br />

Centre mainsheet roll tacking is rather more complicated as the helm has to face forward. He<br />

shouldn’t swap hands until he has sat down on the new windward side, even though this means<br />

steering with his hand behind his back for a second or two 38 .<br />

7 Gybing.<br />

The <strong>Wayfarer</strong> is incredibly stable and can be gybed even in the very strongest breezes. The<br />

gybing technique obviously varies according to wind strength and whether or not the spinnaker is<br />

being used. In light winds the boat will roll gybe using techniques basically similar to those used<br />

in roll tacking, in that the helm and crew wait until the boom goes across before moving across<br />

the boat. This has. the particular advantage of heeling the boat slightly on the new gybe to keep<br />

the mainsail quiet. The gentler the sailors’ movements in these conditions, the better. The crew<br />

38 Al Schönborn’s note: We have available to borrow, a video of Mike demonstrating roll tacking<br />

and gybing as well as using sail trim to help steer. My editing is amateur but Mike’s demo is<br />

professional!<br />

83

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