File - Canadian Wayfarer Association
File - Canadian Wayfarer Association
File - Canadian Wayfarer Association
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centre of effort forward). If you need to luff up, ease the jib very slightly (to bring the centre<br />
of effort aft).<br />
4 The centreboard<br />
It is vital that the centreboard have minimum play inside the box. On glass boats with wide slots,<br />
you need to insert plastic or tufnol washers of several inches’ diameter on both sides of the<br />
board, putting the centreboard pin through them. The leading edge should be as close as possible<br />
to the maximum 83º angle allowed to get the biggest possible presented area.<br />
When sailing off the wind, have as little board down as you can without skidding sideways. If<br />
there is too little board down, the helm will feel heavy and the wash will be turbulent on the<br />
windward side. So if in doubt, look aft!<br />
The leading edge needs to be nicely rounded. An arc of about 1 cm (3/8 ”) inch is about right. It<br />
should merge gently into the centre flat sections. The transition between the flat centre and<br />
the aft bevel should be equally smooth with no abrupt change in profile. The very back edge<br />
needs to have 3 mm (1/8”) flat or so, to give it strength.<br />
5 Hiking straps<br />
The toe straps should be just long enough to enable the sailors to sit out comfortably. There<br />
should also be shock cord tensioning to keep them taut so that the sailor can find them easily<br />
after a tack or gybe. There must also be enough room left between the helm’s toe straps to<br />
enable him to step between them as he tacks.<br />
6 Tacking.<br />
The <strong>Wayfarer</strong> will roll tack beautifully without stopping. The secret of a good tack is for both<br />
sailors to remain on the old windward side until the boom has gone over. Then both sailors should<br />
move to the new windward side. It is also important to ease the mainsheet a little as the helm<br />
goes across. This lets the sailors sit down without the boat heeling too much. The crew should be<br />
marginally behind the helm so that he can, in windy conditions, sit down on the weather side, or<br />
in light conditions, move back to the leeward side as needed. Especially in light winds, the helm is<br />
usually unbalanced at this time, and must be careful how he sits down. If he is too clumsy, the air<br />
will be shaken off the sails.<br />
For this reason, aft mainsheeting is generally better for sailing inland in light weather because<br />
the helm faces aft during the tack and is crouched lower in the boat. The helm should always<br />
swap hands on the tiller before he leaves the old windward side. Then the extension is already in<br />
the correct hand when he gets onto the new tack.<br />
Centre mainsheet roll tacking is rather more complicated as the helm has to face forward. He<br />
shouldn’t swap hands until he has sat down on the new windward side, even though this means<br />
steering with his hand behind his back for a second or two 38 .<br />
7 Gybing.<br />
The <strong>Wayfarer</strong> is incredibly stable and can be gybed even in the very strongest breezes. The<br />
gybing technique obviously varies according to wind strength and whether or not the spinnaker is<br />
being used. In light winds the boat will roll gybe using techniques basically similar to those used<br />
in roll tacking, in that the helm and crew wait until the boom goes across before moving across<br />
the boat. This has. the particular advantage of heeling the boat slightly on the new gybe to keep<br />
the mainsail quiet. The gentler the sailors’ movements in these conditions, the better. The crew<br />
38 Al Schönborn’s note: We have available to borrow, a video of Mike demonstrating roll tacking<br />
and gybing as well as using sail trim to help steer. My editing is amateur but Mike’s demo is<br />
professional!<br />
83