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File - Canadian Wayfarer Association

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Once the spinny is packed in its bucket and the sheets and halyard are attached you will note<br />

that the halyard hangs all over the jib sheet if the spi is on the leeward side and flops around<br />

the mast, into the mainsail or the crew’s face if the spinny is to windward. By taking some slack<br />

in the halyard and passing it in front of the shroud and then hooking it over the hook at the<br />

front of the silver cleat and finally laying it into the black clam cleat and putting the whole thing<br />

under tension the spinny halyard effectively runs up along the shroud and is out of the way until<br />

you take it from cleat and hook just before hoisting.<br />

The silver cleats are a must for fore-and-aft pole adjustment. The windward sheet is passed<br />

under the hook and then cleated when the pole is in the desired position. By having this cleat at<br />

the shroud, it is easily adjusted by skipper or crew (while hiking if necessary!). The HA 4077<br />

cam cleats are useful if you intend to pre-cleat your spi and if you want to keep slack out of the<br />

system when the spi is not in use.<br />

Note: In recent years, we have also added one CL204, mounted to resist forward tension in the<br />

rope to be cleated, (see attempted addition to diagram above) on the deck beside each side of<br />

the mast. Here we can cleat the sheet of a stowed spinnaker that leads up to the bow. In this<br />

way we can tension that sheet to remove excessive slack without pulling the corner of the spi<br />

onto the foredeck.<br />

4.Installation<br />

The above diagram shows locations of necessary fittings. You should note the following, however:<br />

the outside CL 204's shown should be mounted to cleat under outward pull, the inside pair, under<br />

forward pull. CL 217 & 218 need the longest, strongest possible screws and should be in from the<br />

edge of the deck far enough to ensure that screw ends don’t end up outside the topsides<br />

the through-deck blocks will require rectangular deck cuts far enough from the rubrail that you<br />

don't interfere with the topsides which angle inwards.<br />

Threading one continuous sheet: Assuming that the spinny is in its bucket on the port side under<br />

the foredeck, tie one end of sheet to the port clew of spinny. Then feed the loose end in front<br />

of the port shroud then turm aft and feed into port through-deck block, return through port<br />

cheek block on thwart, go across thwart (in front of the mainsheet!) into other cheek block and<br />

aft where you come up through the deck block, forward outside of starboard shroud, around<br />

forestay and back into the bucket, attaching the lose end to the starboard clew.<br />

5 The "balls" system for improved spinnaker sheet control<br />

This initially complicated but ultimately very handy spinnaker sheeting system was first noted on<br />

some of the UK boats in the ‘89 Worlds at Vallensbæk in Denmark where its heavy air potential<br />

could be easily appreciated. A year later, it was outlined in the Danish W-Nyt by Poul Ammentorp<br />

(W239), and I shall try to summarize and update this system here.<br />

48

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