february-2012

Kowloon doesn’t look like a rich person buying ‘culture’. Th e
WKCD needs to be fantastic not only for Hong Kong, but
fantastic to have on this planet.”
With its dazzling skyline, Hong Kong can easily seduce
the holidaymaker with its architectural wonders and pictureperfect
harbour views. But a short jaunt from Central Pier 5, a
series of islands surround the bright lights of the big city.
Cheung Chau is such a place. It’s one of the smallest islands
in Hong Kong, yet it off ers an incredible peek into the city’s
maritime, buccaneering and religious past.
Arriving on this tiny island (just over 2.7sqkm) the fi rst thing
you discover is that there are no cars. Unlike the constant boom
of traffi c on Hong Kong Island, Cheung Chau mostly buzzes to
the sound of birdsong, cicadas and fi shermen’s whistles.
North of the pier is Cheung Chau’s most revered temple, Pak
Tai, built in the 18th century to protect the local fi shermen from
foreign naval invaders. Th e temple is also home to the island’s
largest (and most unusual) festival — Th e Bun Festival.
Stretching over eight days in late April, this Taoist celebration
sees the construction of 20-metre bamboo towers, all covered in
sacrifi cial buns. In the bygone days, you would have had to climb
these structures and reach for the highest bun, but nowadays
these delicious goodies are handed down to the cheering people.
It’s an incredibly joyous and fun event not to be missed.
Away from the temple and down the narrow alleyways of the
main town, virtually every household burns incense outside,
mainly because of Cheung Chau’s bewitching reputation as a
place for marauding ghouls and spirits. On shop corners
ABOVE
Cheung Chau
beaches and
Buddha
TRAVEL HONG KONG
Street snacks
Hongkongers will try
anything once (or twice),
so be prepared for a
smorgasbord of weird and
wonderful street-side eats.
Soy braised duck neck?
You can fi nd this
surprisingly succulent treat
(€2.40) at Juet Moi, 2 Fa
Yuen Street, Mong Kok.
What about an eel and
rice burger? This soy
sauce-slathered gem
(€1.20) can be purchased
at Hamanako, 7 Shing Yip
Street, Kwun Tong. And for
the truly experimental,
why not attempt some
deep-friend durian? It’s
stinky, piping hot and
comes in a fritter (€2.40)
at Durian King, 2 Kornhill
Road. There are plenty of
fi ve-star restaurants in
Hong Kong, but for the
locals, and the
adventurous visitor, the
street snack remains the
culinary king.
Holland Herald 35