february-2012

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56 Holland Herald “ Desert driving is one of the most exhilarating ways to see the landscape ” Wahiba Sands A day of desert driving is one of the most exhilarating ways to see the landscape of Oman’s interior. Still occupied by Bedouins, Wahiba Sands is approximately 12,500 square miles of desert made famous by explorer Wilfred Thesiger and his camel train. Today, a fourwheel-drive is the preferred method of transport, with rollercoaster style dune drives top of visitors’ to-do lists. Hotels can arrange tours.
enough to have been there to see off enemy troops. “I even let children come in,” he laughs, beckoning to a nearby European family. Outside, modern life goes on, punctuated by impromptu displays of men leaping with swords and exchanging poetry, in an energetic dance called the razha. Once a dance of war, it demonstrates agility and strength and is oft en seen at festivals and holidays such as Eid, as well as being a traditional welcome to the much-loved ruler, Sultan Qaboos. Pictures of his face can be spotted in the most unlikely of places. He beams from the walls of car showrooms, oversees proceedings in fast food restaurants and is behind the desk at banks. Th e Omanis speak fondly of him, while expats whisper about who will succeed to the throne; with no children, the 71-year old can nominate a male relative to take over, but as yet no names have been put forward. Should the family fail to come to a verdict, Oman’s Defence Council will choose from two names placed in sealed envelopes by Qaboos before his death. Far from the capital, dusk falls s on the Jebel Shams mountains around ecoretreat, Th e View. Th e campfi re is being lit, 1,400 metres above sea level. Overlooking Oman’s highest peaks, aks, permanent tents dot the landscape, ape, complete with ensuite bathrooms, ms, twin n beds and TVs, while campers from om all over the world gather around the e fi re with drinks, sharing hiking stories ries and a few songs under the stars. Th e next morning, many of them hem will head out into the foothills, packed lunches ready, sturdy shoes on and nd cameras waiting for the kind of views the will make folks back home shake hake their heads with wonder. For tonight, night, though, it’s bedtime. Sunrises don’t come much more ore impressive than the following morning’s, with peachy rays TRAVEL OMAN CLOCKWISE FROM ABOVE LEFT A trader in a mountain souq; The Jebel Shams mountain range; local wildlife
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february-2012

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