february-2012

TRAVEL HONG KONG
Taoist priests chant ‘ghost warding’ incantations, while
elderly fi shermen still make off erings to a ‘prosperous’ banyan
tree located in the centre of town.
Many islanders still live on boats anchored off the main
harbour, making the sleepy ambience of the place seem a
thousand years removed from Hong Kong’s bustling urban
neighbourhoods. A 30-minute sampan ride (around €40)
around Typhoon Shelter and West Bay reveals the fi shing
community at work (and rest). “We don’t understand your need
for sports cars,” smiles Mr So, a soft ly-spoken retired fi shermen.
“You see much more of life from riding the sea currents.”
Given its size, you can easily explore Cheung Chau’s hiking
trails and beaches in a day, taking in the 3,000-year-old rock
carvings at Cheung Chau Beach Road and the famed Tou Tei
shrine on Kwok Man Road.
But this can be an active place too. “It’s a Mecca for
windsurfi ng for us Hongkongers,” explains Charles Leung, an
amateur windsurfer from Kowloon, at the pleasingly-titled
Aft ernoon Beach where sailboards can be rented for around €70
per hour. Local legend Lee Lai-Shan, who remains Hong Kong’s
only gold medal Olympic winner, took the windsurfi ng gold at
Hong Kong fact fi le
GETTING THERE
KLM operates daily direct
fl ights to Hong Kong
International Airport from
Amsterdam Airport Schiphol.
HOTELS
The Mandarin Oriental
(mandarinoriental.com) on
Hong Kong Island is one of
36 Holland Herald
the most venerated, gracious
and stylish hotels in South
East Asia.
DRINKS
The Pawn (thepawn.com.hk,
+852 2866 3444) is a heritage
building turned gastro-pub.
Arrive early for a terrace seat.
Sevva (sevva.hk, +852 2537
1388) is stylish, glamorous and
a favourite celebrity haunt,
with breathtaking views over
Victoria Harbour.
FOOD
French-inspired Caprice (Four
Seasons Hotel, 8 Finance
Street, +852 3196 8888) is
often considered the best
restaurant in Hong Kong.
the 1996 Atlanta Games. But if the water is too choppy, venture
to the far western tip of the island to a tiny little cave named
aft er the 19th century buccaneer Cheung Po-Tsai, who allegedly
stashed his pirate treasure here. You won’t fi nd any gold booty in
the rocks, but the place certainly carries an air of how the
islanders’ ancestors used to live.
At late afternoon back on the waterfront, the restaurants
come alive with bright lanterns, noisy chatter and clanging
cutlery. Here you can feast on tasty Cantonese seafood and the
island’s famous homemade fi shballs. Elderly local Mrs Lau
may even invite you to try her evening barbeque at Tung Wan
beach — a long stretch of lovely sand and a magical end to a
magical day on this breezy outlying gem of an island.
N
Hong Kong
International
Airport
Hong Kong
Cheung Chau
Hutong (28th fl oor, 1 Peking
Road, Tsim Sha Tsui, +852 3428
8342) is a Michelin-starred
Chinese restaurant offering
a vast array of local dishes.
Also consider One Dim Sum
(15 Playing Field Road, Prince
Edward) or Shunde Chuen
Kowloon
Hong Kong
Island
Asia
Cheung Chau
fishing boats
China
Hong Kong
South
China Sea
(108 Woosung Street, Jordan,
+852 2789 2280) for simpler
local fare.
DON’T FORGET
You can take this magazine
with you, or read the article
again at holland-herald.com.
Map: Allan Grotjohann