february-2012

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TRAVEL OMAN 52 Holland Herald Mountain Oman remains an authentically beautiful country, unspoiled by its resource wealth. Helen Spearman explores its rugged heart PHOTOGRAPHY: JEREME THAXTON
magic Muscat’s waterfront at sunset, with the fort perched on the side of the mountain TRAVEL OMAN “Henna! Henna! Henna!” Th e chant rings through the village, the young girl’s off er bouncing off the low walls of crumbling houses and the coolness of an air-conditioned fourwheel drive car snaking its way into the mountains. Six-year-old Noor’s home is dark and shaded, the largest in the village, and surrounded by goats. Th ey nuzzle into the doorway, skip along the outer walls and hang around on the corner like a gang of teenagers, bleating merrily at anyone who dares to enter their domain, a noisy reminder of how simple life is for those that have carved out a life in the rugged countryside. Th is is one of the ‘goat villages’ less than an hour from Oman’s capital of Muscat. Here, villagers make their living from farming, or from sending sons into nearby towns to work as drivers, shop assistants or guides. Earnings are modest, homes even more so, with makeshift football pitches painted onto the stony ground for the boys to zoom around on, while the girls sit nearby, playing and sharing stories. “Sweets? Dates? Water?” Noor’s mother off ers, a near-toothless Ho Hol Ho Hol Ho Hol Ho Holland ol la lan la lan la lan la lan la l an a d dH d dH d dH d dH d dH d dH d dH d dH d Herald H H HHera er era er era e era e ra rra a ld 53
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february-2012

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