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CONTINUED<br />

FROM PAGE 32<br />

Adding a shadow<br />

There was no shadow at all in the photo<br />

of the orange slice. But if you look at<br />

the original apple, you can see that there was a<br />

shadow on the apple. So I had to transfer that<br />

to the orange. I used the Pen tool to draw a path<br />

where I wanted the shadow to be, and converted it<br />

to a selection. Then I used brightness and contrast<br />

in the Multiply Blend mode to darken it. Because<br />

the shadow wouldn’t have a hard edge in reality,<br />

I went into Quick Mask mode and drew a quick<br />

selection around the top side, and blurred it with<br />

Gaussian Blur. Then I pulled down the layer’s<br />

Manage your<br />

open fi les. If you’re using<br />

Photoshop CS4, take advantage of the<br />

new interface to better organize your<br />

fi les. When you’re cloning from multiple<br />

images, check the box for Match Zoom<br />

and Location (or Match All)—it’s easy<br />

to revisit possibilities and compare<br />

your options without having to move<br />

windows all over the place.<br />

Return to the<br />

Clone Stamp tool.<br />

CS4 makes it easy and effi cient<br />

to use the Clone Stamp—the new<br />

version shows you a preview of your<br />

change before you commit to it. I used<br />

to waste a lot of time of trying to get<br />

just the right clone, always undoing<br />

and retrying. Though confusing at fi rst,<br />

this change in CS4 is magnifi cent.<br />

Clone on<br />

new layers. Always clone<br />

onto a new, blank layer. Switch<br />

between Sampling Current,<br />

Current and Below, and All Layers in<br />

the pulldown menu in the Options<br />

Bar. I recommend that you become<br />

very familiar with these distinctions<br />

because they are extremely useful<br />

when creating complex composites.<br />

Label your layers<br />

effi ciently. I like to name<br />

layers that only have cloned<br />

and healed fi xes in them “f”<br />

for fi x. This makes them easier to fi nd<br />

again later and group together.<br />

Make merged<br />

copies. The merged copy<br />

(Shift + Ctrl [Command on a Mac]<br />

+ C, followed by Ctrl [Command] +<br />

V) is a lifesaver for a warping adjustment,<br />

such as Liquify, that must take place on<br />

top of a fi le stack on which you’ve already<br />

done a lot of work in terms of Adjustment<br />

Layers and cloning clean-up layers.<br />

Take advantage of<br />

Quick Masks.<br />

Developing the ability to work<br />

simultaneously with Quick Masks<br />

and selections is critical to refi ning your<br />

compositing workfl ow. Just hit the Q key<br />

on your keyboard to enter Quick Mask<br />

mode. With Quick Masks, you can paint a<br />

mask directly in the working space. Most<br />

often, I use Quick Mask in conjunction<br />

with the Lasso tool. I’ll load an already<br />

created alpha channel for an entire<br />

object, switch to Quick Mask mode, and<br />

quickly select and delete areas that I<br />

don’t want in my current selection. You<br />

opacity until the shadow looked natural. I chose<br />

to make the shadow fall a little lower than the<br />

one in the original apple photo, simply because<br />

it worked better aesthetically.<br />

Between apple & orange<br />

Where there’s a slice, there will be an<br />

edge—and the look of that edge is important<br />

for a convincing composite. In this case, the pith<br />

between the orange fl esh and the apple edge was<br />

brought in from the orange shot. I used the Warp<br />

tool to carefully match it to the contour of the apple<br />

slice. For fi ne adjustments, I used the Liquify brush.<br />

can also Ctrl [Command] + click on any<br />

layer thumbnail, layer mask thumbnail,<br />

channel thumbnail, or path thumbnail to<br />

turn it into a selection. Once selected,<br />

go into Quick Mask Mode and then alter<br />

the selection to make a new mask, or<br />

combine multiple selections.<br />

Use “scrubby<br />

sliders.” Instead of manually<br />

inputting numerical values—such<br />

those for selection feathering,<br />

opacity, or font size—mouse over the<br />

word or icon labeling what you want to<br />

change, and you’ll see a pointed fi nger.<br />

Click and drag left or right to decrease or<br />

increase the numerical value in the box.<br />

Hide your selections.<br />

Typing Ctrl [Command] + H<br />

hides or shows the crawling ants<br />

selection. I use this all the time.<br />

When, say, you have an area selected<br />

and you want to increase contrast, it’s<br />

important to see how it transitions at the<br />

edges. Hiding the noisy ants while you<br />

adjust gives you an idea of the real effect<br />

of your fi x. This same key command<br />

can even hide the warping grid. It’s<br />

unbelievably useful, because it allows<br />

you to see what’s going on at the edges<br />

of the area you are working with.<br />

34 WWW.POPPHOTO.COM POP PHOTO MAY 2009

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