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photo - Ken Gilbert

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ight, sunny days, a subject<br />

backlit by the sun is very evenly<br />

illuminated from the front by diffuse<br />

ambient light. In the case of<br />

the Galápagos hawk <strong>photo</strong> above,<br />

the backlit bird is illuminated by<br />

refiection from the white sandy<br />

beach below.<br />

The simple rule is to keep your<br />

subject on the line between you<br />

and the sun to minimize direct<br />

sunlight entering the lens. You will<br />

almost always need to overexpose<br />

from the meter reading to get<br />

good detail in your subject: In the<br />

Galápagos<br />

hawk<br />

captured with<br />

a handheld<br />

Canon EOS-<br />

1D Mark III<br />

and 70–<br />

200mm f/4L<br />

Canon EF IS<br />

lens; 1/400<br />

sec at f/7.1<br />

(+1.7 EV over<br />

the meter),<br />

ISO 400.<br />

Swallowtailed<br />

gull<br />

chick,<br />

cropped, shot<br />

handheld with<br />

EOS 50D and<br />

70–200mm<br />

f/4L Canon EF<br />

IS lens; 1/400<br />

sec at f/8,<br />

ISO 400.<br />

www.storemags.com & www.fantamag.com<br />

hawk <strong>photo</strong>, I added nearly 2 stops<br />

of exposure over the camera’s<br />

evaluative meter reading.<br />

When working with backlighting,<br />

there will always be some<br />

small parts of your subject that<br />

will be lit directly by the sun. To<br />

make sure you’re not overexposing<br />

important detail, enable the<br />

highlight warning on your DSLR,<br />

generally found in a setup menu.<br />

On playback on the LCD, this<br />

warning will fiash “blinkies” on<br />

highlights that are blown out.<br />

Remember, though, that some<br />

loss of highlight detail may be<br />

unavoidable in backlit <strong>photo</strong>s.<br />

After shooting, you can lighten<br />

shaded areas in a variety of<br />

ways in numerous image-editing<br />

programs. A Curves adjustment<br />

in Adobe Photoshop is the one I<br />

use most frequently. A simpler<br />

Photoshop tool for this task is<br />

the Shadow/Highlight slider set.<br />

It’s easy to overdo fllling with the<br />

Shadow slider, so be careful.<br />

Work right on Frontlight<br />

Backlight not working for you? Try<br />

the exact opposite strategy: direct<br />

frontlight. Even at midday in<br />

summer, the sun is almost never<br />

directly overhead. Look for your<br />

shadow, and position yourself<br />

so that the shadow is pointing<br />

directly at your subject. This puts<br />

the sun precisely behind you.<br />

Now position yourself low, or<br />

level with your subject, and move<br />

in or zoom in for good framing.<br />

Watch for the perfect head<br />

angle—when the subject’s face is<br />

fully lit, flre the shutter. I used this<br />

technique for both the spoonbill<br />

in Alafla Banks Bird Sanctuary<br />

in Tampa Bay (far left) and the<br />

northern gannet on Bonaventure<br />

Island in Percé, Québec, shown on<br />

page 124. (For the spoonbill, I was<br />

sitting chest-deep in water.)<br />

When working frontlit, especially<br />

with light-colored subjects,<br />

Continues on page 124<br />

POPPHOTO.COM popular <strong>photo</strong>graphy 55

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