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Cremation, Caste, and Cosmogony in Karmic Traditions.

Cremation, Caste, and Cosmogony in Karmic Traditions.

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(Skt. Dak<strong>in</strong>i) come to distribute the food throughout the<br />

tree world of the cosmos, while chanted mantras<br />

multiply the amount of flesh, blood, <strong>and</strong> bones so that it<br />

“never ends”. As the corpse is distributed it takes on a<br />

variety of forms to meet every conceivable need, as well<br />

as pay back every debt that…has [been] accumulated<br />

from the past” (ibid).<br />

One of the lamas expressed the reason <strong>and</strong> the mean<strong>in</strong>g<br />

of the text <strong>in</strong> this way; “Imag<strong>in</strong>e that your corpse has<br />

been turned <strong>in</strong>to heal<strong>in</strong>g medic<strong>in</strong>es, f<strong>in</strong>e clothes,<br />

precious jewels, all k<strong>in</strong>ds of gra<strong>in</strong>s, <strong>and</strong> domestic<br />

animals: horses, cattle, elephants. Then it is transformed<br />

<strong>in</strong>to forests, flowers, <strong>and</strong> wealth of all k<strong>in</strong>ds. Noth<strong>in</strong>g is<br />

lack<strong>in</strong>g. Indeed, your corpse has been transformed <strong>in</strong>to<br />

the Wish-grant<strong>in</strong>g Tree itself, along with mansions,<br />

gardens, gems, <strong>and</strong> all desirables to satisfy the five<br />

senses” (ibid). The corpse is not merely a waste product<br />

but a precious source for new life, <strong>and</strong> the immanent<br />

powers reside <strong>in</strong> the flesh. “Cut pieces” of corpses were<br />

also identified with the distribution of rice cakes to the<br />

other villages <strong>in</strong> Gyasumdo. All realms <strong>and</strong> regions <strong>in</strong><br />

cosmos <strong>and</strong> the world receive their share, <strong>and</strong> nobody<br />

must be excluded. The practice of air-burials renews the<br />

wealth of the world <strong>and</strong> everyone that lives with<strong>in</strong> it.<br />

The direct image of this process is that both <strong>in</strong>vited <strong>and</strong><br />

un<strong>in</strong>vited guests come <strong>and</strong> devour the flesh, which is<br />

visualised as food on a banquet. The renounced body is<br />

the one that is distributed; “S<strong>in</strong>ce I must die anyway, I<br />

give my body to all the guests. All come, I’ll feed you!<br />

Those who like meat, take my flesh. Those who like<br />

blood, take my blood. Those who like bones, take my<br />

bones. Those who like sk<strong>in</strong> to wear, take my sk<strong>in</strong>. Take<br />

it all, I don’t need it!” (ibid:206-207). After the disposal<br />

the process of the guidance of the soul starts, which is<br />

dealt with particularly <strong>in</strong> the Tibetan Book of the Dead.<br />

Kalig<strong>and</strong>aki River Valley <strong>and</strong> Nire ghat <strong>in</strong><br />

Baglung<br />

Kalig<strong>and</strong>aki River is one of the most holy <strong>and</strong> sacred<br />

rivers <strong>in</strong> Nepal <strong>and</strong> has an important religious function<br />

all over Western Nepal, <strong>and</strong> she is named after the<br />

goddess Kali. There are several reasons why<br />

Kalig<strong>and</strong>aki River has this special religious role. It<br />

conta<strong>in</strong>s the ammonite fossils known to H<strong>in</strong>dus as<br />

saligram. From a geological po<strong>in</strong>t of view an ammonite<br />

fossil is the rema<strong>in</strong>s of an aquatic animal that is<br />

preserved <strong>in</strong> rock. In the H<strong>in</strong>du religion, saligram is an<br />

embodiment, a physical manifestation, or visible<br />

<strong>in</strong>carnation of Vishnu. Kalig<strong>and</strong>aki River is the river<br />

where almost all saligrams <strong>in</strong> Nepal are found, <strong>and</strong> the<br />

river is also gold bear<strong>in</strong>g. Gold is one of the purest <strong>and</strong><br />

most auspicious mediums <strong>in</strong> the H<strong>in</strong>du religion.<br />

Moreover, the river comes from the Himalayas, <strong>and</strong> it is<br />

therefore seen as a god. In general, mounta<strong>in</strong>s are<br />

perceived as gods, but <strong>in</strong> this area Dhaulagiri has a<br />

special role. Accord<strong>in</strong>g to folk tales <strong>and</strong> beliefs<br />

Dhaulagiri is the giver of waters to the rivers. The river<br />

155<br />

leads as all Nepali rivers to Ganges <strong>and</strong> then to Varanasi,<br />

the holy pilgrimage site where a cremation will end “the<br />

round of birth <strong>and</strong> death” <strong>and</strong> the deceased will atta<strong>in</strong><br />

salvation. But one of the most important reasons for<br />

Kalig<strong>and</strong>aki River’s hol<strong>in</strong>ess is Mukt<strong>in</strong>ath.<br />

The Mukt<strong>in</strong>ath temple with its 108 waterspouts is the<br />

second most sacred H<strong>in</strong>du place <strong>in</strong> Nepal. It is a holy<br />

shr<strong>in</strong>e for H<strong>in</strong>dus as well as Buddhists <strong>and</strong> here the two<br />

religions co-exist together. The local Tibetan name of<br />

Mukt<strong>in</strong>ath is Chu-mig-brgya–rtsa which literally means<br />

a “hundred-odd spr<strong>in</strong>gs”. The waterspouts are associated<br />

with eighty-four Siddha or Great Magicians from the late<br />

Indian Buddhist tradition, watched by the Serpent<br />

div<strong>in</strong>ity Gawo Jogpa known as Vishnu among the<br />

H<strong>in</strong>dus (Snellgrove 1979:81-82). Buddhists who<br />

worship here will be freed from all s<strong>in</strong>s committed <strong>in</strong><br />

their lifetime, <strong>and</strong> they will be rewarded <strong>in</strong> the future by<br />

reach<strong>in</strong>g the state of Buddha. Mukt<strong>in</strong>ath is both a<br />

process <strong>and</strong> a place; on the one h<strong>and</strong> it is a tirtha-yatra,<br />

or an arduous, long-distance religious journey, <strong>and</strong> on<br />

the other h<strong>and</strong>, a sacred chhetra, or holy zone<br />

(Messerschmidt 1992:11). Water sources <strong>in</strong> the high<br />

Himalayas have always had a particularly strong<br />

attraction for pilgrims as sources of the holy Ganges<br />

River, <strong>and</strong> they have been called “s<strong>in</strong>-destroy<strong>in</strong>g<br />

localities”. The importance of water is underscored by<br />

the Sanskrit term for pilgrimage: tirtha (river ford) or<br />

tirtha-yatra (“journey to a river ford”) (ibid:16). Place<br />

<strong>and</strong> water are <strong>in</strong>terconnected. Lama Dorje collected<br />

earth, water, <strong>and</strong> herbs from among other places<br />

Milarepa’s cave <strong>in</strong> Nyeshang, <strong>and</strong> from Mukt<strong>in</strong>ath, <strong>and</strong><br />

he expla<strong>in</strong>ed why: “In Mukt<strong>in</strong>ath the orig<strong>in</strong>al fire burns<br />

<strong>in</strong> water <strong>in</strong> harmony, <strong>and</strong> there the rocks <strong>and</strong> soil are as<br />

they were at the beg<strong>in</strong>n<strong>in</strong>g of time. We collect these <strong>and</strong><br />

br<strong>in</strong>g them back so we can <strong>in</strong>sert them <strong>in</strong> our Chortens<br />

[stupas] <strong>and</strong> <strong>in</strong> the soil of the fields to delay<br />

deterioration, restor<strong>in</strong>g to some extent the qualities of the<br />

good age” (Mumford 1989:97).<br />

Mukt<strong>in</strong>ath used to be a quest only for the hardiest of<br />

pilgrims, but nowadays rich pilgrims may rent<br />

helicopters <strong>and</strong> l<strong>and</strong> next to the temple. The more<br />

common pilgrimage, apart from the old hard way, is by<br />

an ord<strong>in</strong>ary flight from Pokhara to Jomson from where it<br />

is only a one-day climb to Mukt<strong>in</strong>ath, <strong>and</strong> the pilgrims<br />

often comb<strong>in</strong>e pleasure, vacation, <strong>and</strong> pilgrimage.<br />

Follow<strong>in</strong>g the river from Mukt<strong>in</strong>ath where the Jhong<br />

River jo<strong>in</strong>s the Kali G<strong>and</strong>aki, Kagbeni is the ma<strong>in</strong> town<br />

<strong>in</strong> the lower valley. Confluences are called beni <strong>in</strong><br />

Nepal, <strong>and</strong> they are sacred to H<strong>in</strong>dus. Many pilgrims<br />

stop here on their way up to the valley of Mukt<strong>in</strong>ath to<br />

perform the sacred rites of shraddha for their departed<br />

k<strong>in</strong> people. Kagbeni is also the junction of four trade<br />

routes from Manang <strong>and</strong> Mukt<strong>in</strong>ath to the east, from<br />

Dolpo to the west, from Lo-Manthang (Mustang) <strong>and</strong><br />

Tibet to the north, <strong>and</strong> from the Nepali hills, Tarai<br />

lowl<strong>and</strong>s <strong>and</strong> north India to the south (Messerschmidt<br />

1992:8). Thak was one of the many petty-k<strong>in</strong>gdoms <strong>in</strong><br />

the higher mounta<strong>in</strong>s of Nepal until the Gorkha conquest

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