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Performance Apparel Markets, 1st quarter 2006 Seamless knitting and stitch-free technologies The range of end uses has expanded from lingerie to include gloves, sweaters, dresses, trousers and skirts By 2007 Santoni estimates that seamless underwear will account for 35% of the total market Polyamide microfibres are the most common yarns in seamless knitting and offer a number of benefits Nylstar produces a range of high performance microfibres developed for seamless knitting When seamless knitting was introduced by Shima Seiki in 1995, its applications were confined to the lingerie sector. Since then, the range of end uses has broadened out to include the production of gloves and sweaters, as well as dresses, trousers and skirts. In terms of market penetration, seamless knitting technology was estimated to be used by just 1% of underwear manufacturers globally in 1997. But by 2007, Santoni estimates, seamless underwear will account for as much as 35% of the total underwear market. YARNS FOR SEAMLESS KNITTING The most commonly used yarns in seamless knitting are polyamide microfibres. These high performance fibres result in garments which are breathable, quick drying, and durable through multiple home wash cycles. Italy-based Nylstar produces a range of high performance microfibres which it has developed for seamless knitting (Table 2). Table 2: Nylstar yarns for seamless knitting Yarn Properties Meryl Skinlife Has a bacteriostatic action which prevents unpleasant odours. Suitable for sportswear Meryl Nateo Has the appearance of a natural fibre but with a higher capacity to absorb perspiration and the ability to dry out four times more quickly than cotton. Good for activewear and bodywear Meryl Nexten Ultra-light due to its hollow core. Provides weather protection and temperature regulation. Ideal for use in sports wear and outdoor protective wear Meryl Satiné Similar to silk but also highly resistant to pilling Meryl UV protection Provides protection from the sun. Is twice as strong as cotton but has the same soft hand Elité A fibre which distributes elasticity evenly throughout the garment, thereby providing a comfortable fit Source: Nylstar. THE MARKET FOR SEAMLESS AND STITCH-FREE APPAREL Welding technology facilitates the creation of more durable, but lighter weight products for the performance outerwear market But seamless and welding technology can help in many other sectors “The biggest quest in the performance outerwear market is to create more durable, but lighter weight product. [Welding technology] allows us to do that. It reduces layers of fabric in the seam, lowering weight and height, which leads to less abrasion. Plus it’s durable, it has good flow at a low temperature and it has excellent stretch and recovery”, explained a designer at The North Face. However, it is not only in performance outerwear where improvements in fit and comfort are being sought. Today’s tighter clothes and stretch fabrics mean that seamless and welding technology can help in many © Textiles Intelligence Limited 27
Performance Apparel Markets, 1st quarter 2006 Seamless knitting and stitch-free technologies sectors such as underwear and sportswear. A host of leading performance apparel brands are using the technology The market for seamless compression apparel is worth around US$1 bn Stitch-free performance apparel, including welding technologies, will be worth US$200 mn in 2006 Stitch-free performance apparel will grow by 60%- 80% over the next five years as prices drop But seamless knitting alone for performance apparel will grow by a lesser 25% to 35% Growth will be driven by organic growth and gains from cut and sew A host of leading brands in the performance apparel market use seamless or welding technology in their product ranges. These include Adidas, Arc’Teryx, Fila, Helly Hansen, Nike, O’Neill and Patagonia. Currently, the global market for seamless compression apparel—a type of apparel made by seamless knitting—is estimated to be worth around US$1 bn. This includes performance apparel and lingerie. The global market for stitch-free performance apparel—including both knitting and welding technologies—will be worth US$200 mn in 2006, according to the Israel-based seamless apparel company Zensah Performance Apparel (see page 34). Ryan Oliver of Zensah expects the market for stitch-free performance apparel—including knitting and welding technologies—to grow by 60% to 80% over the next five years as prices drop and there is more consumer awareness of the benefits. However, the market for seamless knitting alone for performance apparel is predicted to grow by a lesser 25% to 35% over the next five years because it is a more mature market than that for stitch-free seamed performance apparel. Growth in performance apparel made without stitched seams is expected to be driven partly by organic growth but also by the gaining of market share from the conventional cut and sew market. KEY PRODUCERS Key producers include firms specialising in adhesives, thermoplastic films and tapes, seamless knitting machine manufacturers and those making finished garments Bemis makes a range of thermoplastic films designed to replace stitched seams in outerwear and other apparel Key producers within the seamless knitting and welding market include: ● companies which specialise in the production of adhesives and thermoplastic films and tapes used in bonding; ● manufacturers of seamless knitting machines; and ● a wide range of companies which produce finished garments. BEMIS USA-based Bemis produces a range of thermoplastic adhesive films specifically designed to replace stitched seams in outerwear and other apparel. Its products can be used not only for seams in garments but also for inserting and creating zips, pockets, cuffs, hems and drawstring channels. 28 © Textiles Intelligence Limited
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