Performance Apparel Markets - Grado Zero Espace Srl

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Performance Apparel Markets, 1st quarter 2006 Seamless knitting and stitch-free technologies Its own Composite Seam System (CSS) technique is used to sonically weld laser cut panels for its soft and hard shells CSS eliminates seam tape and thread crown abrasion, and leaky needle holes In soft shells, CSS uses a strong adhesive to create a seam of two overlapping fabrics CSS offers reduced bulk, a softer hand and more compressible garment, improved water resistance, and quick drying In hard shells, CSS uses closely butted seams which are sonically welded The CSS hard shells are claimed to be 27% lighter From autumn 2006 CSS will be known as Welded Seam Technology Portugal-based Petratex uses ultrasonic welding High profile sportswear companies such as Nike and Adidas have contracted Petratex A polyurethane tape lines the edges of the fabric which form the seams, and heat is applied to melt the tape and bond the edges Patagonia developed its own technique called Composite Seam System (CSS), which is used in its soft and hard shells. The aim was to remove stitched seams which were more bulky and stiffer than the lightweight fabrics used in the company’s garments. For CSS, fabric pieces are laser cut and welded sonically. Stitch-free seams made using CSS are also claimed to improve a garment’s performance by eliminating seam tape and thread crown abrasion and the needle hole—an area of potential leakage. In soft shells, CSS uses a strong adhesive to create a seam of two overlapping fabrics. The narrow seam reduces fabric bulk and is softer than would be the case using traditional sewn seams. It is also claimed that it improves water resistance because there are no needle holes—in effect the seam is as waterproof as the fabric. The benefits of CSS are reduced bulk and a softer hand which mean the garment is more compressible. Water resistance is improved by the removal of thread—which can act like a wick—and the elimination of needle holes which can allow water to collect in the seam. According to Patagonia, soft shells made with CSS dry three to four times more quickly than those made with stitched seams. In hard shells, CSS uses closely butted (non-overlapping) seams which are sonically welded precisely enough to use lighter and narrower reinforcement tape to lock the seam. Patagonia’s CSS hard shells are claimed to be 27% lighter than those made using conventional cut and sew methods. In autumn 2006, Patagonia is renaming CSS. From then it will be known as Welded Seam Technology. PETRATEX Portugal-based Petratex uses ultrasonic welding technology to manufacture its clothing. A number of high profile sportswear companies have contracted Petratex to produce lines of clothing for them. These include Nike and Adidas. Petratex supplied Nike with 100,000 stitch-free items for professional soccer teams in 2005. Petratex uses a tape made of polyurethane to line the edges of the fabric which form the seams. Heat is applied to melt the tape and bond the two edges of the fabrics together. © Textiles Intelligence Limited 31
Performance Apparel Markets, 1st quarter 2006 Seamless knitting and stitch-free technologies High performance athletic wear uses ultrasound to bind fabrics together and the seam is then taped for further integrity The process can take 15 minutes longer than when using a sewing machine Various items have been made using these techniques But denim was found to be too thick for the process Santoni considers the development of the seamless knitting market to be strongly linked with its own development Today it meets most of the world’s demand for seamless knitting machines Santoni’s sales have been growing in tandem with the seamless market and it now has a 98% share of the market Its machines can make tubular fabrics with laid-in elastic yarns and areas of gradual compression It is claimed that these processes save 40% in costs Garments with different stitches can be made, as can pre-shaped structures and hidden supports In the case of high performance athletic wear, ultrasonic heating is used to bind the fabrics together. Tape is then applied along the seams and the tape heated to provide additional integrity to the seams. Interestingly, Petratex estimates that the whole process can take 15 minutes longer than when using a sewing machine to perform the same task. The company has made shorts, shirts, trousers, work-out clothes, swimwear and designer dresses using ultrasonic welding. However, when it investigated the possibility of making stitch-free jeans using this technology, it found that the denim fabric was too thick. SANTONI Founded in 1919 Italy-based Santoni considers the development of the seamless knitting market to be strongly linked with its own development as a company. The firm began as a manufacturer of sock machines and in 1988 it became part of the Lonati Group, which makes hosiery machines. In 1997 Santoni began to develop and produce electronic circular knitting machines for seamless apparel. Today it claims to meet the bulk of the world’s demand for seamless knitting machines. The company’s sales have been growing in tandem with the seamless market. Between 1988 and 1996, Santoni sold 900 machines, between 1997 and 1999 it sold 3,100 machines, and between 2000 and 2005 it sold 13,000 machines. In total, it has over 450 customers in 80 countries and claims to have a 98% share of the market for seamless garment machinery. Santoni machines are capable of making seamless tubular fabrics which incorporate laid-in elastic yarns inserted in welt bands, and areas of the fabric with gradual compression. These areas are produced by gradually reducing the length of yarn going into each knitted loop using electronic control. The reduction changes the geometry of the fabric by reducing its area in places, and alters its stretch properties by reducing extensibility. All of these processes are claimed to result in fabrics which cost 40% less than those using a traditional system. The company’s circular knitting machines are capable of making garments with different stitches such as rib, net, jacquard, piquet, stripes and laces, as well as pre-shaped structures, hidden supports, pockets, collars and hoods. 32 © Textiles Intelligence Limited
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